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Volume two | Issue Eleven | FREE

The Escape Issue In Pursuit of Distraction

Reviving imagination with Samuel Beckett, English National Opera and the slopes of St. Moritz

James Butterwick Russian and European Fine Art Alexander Bogomazov (1880-1930)

Study for the painting ‘Sawers’ from the ‘Work of Sawers’ series

‘Back of the legs’ (1928-29) Pencil on paper, 36 x 31 cm

Welcome to the latest issue of Kensington & Chelsea Review. Filled with art, auction, culture and luxury, Kensington & Chelsea Review is the magazine for the rather discerning resident of the Royal Borough.

Cover image: detail of ENO Peter Grimes 2014 chorus (c) Robert Workman

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Ed’s letter It’s been an extreme start to the year. Flash floods, parts of the UK countryside locked off, and of course, Sochi. Now, the temperate season begins, and with it the first signs of love, spring and new beginnings. Last year, we dedicated the issue to musing upon the eternal question - what is love? This year we continue our worship of Venus, but with an additional twist - we’re dedicating our issue to Escape. Escape comes in many forms – the arts, pleasure, leisure, and of course the traditional route of travelling far and wide, and it’s these pursuits that fill the issue. Highlights include an in-depth on the latest production of Samuel Beckett’s Happy Days, an exploration on the future of 3D printing, and a spin inside the new BMW M4. For all the latest, follow us on Twitter @KCReview and remember, this Spring, to make your escape. Coco Khan Editor

Publisher Talismanic Media


Founder and Managing Director Sid Raghava



News curated from the worlds of art, culture and intrigue. Editor Coco Khan New Business Development Greg Holmes Art Director Max Wilson



We cast a critical eye on Happy Days, the latest production of the notoriously difficult Samuel Beckett text, Peter Grimes at English National Opera and Architecture of Density at Flowers Cork Street.

11. From Christie’s, With Insight

The latest instalment in Christie’s monthly column with tips for buyers.

17. Shopping

Our must have products for this month.

Publishing Director Stephen Slocombe

20. Restaurant Reviews

Alyn Williams, Outlaws at The Capital and more.

Office Manager Lee Marrero

26. Travel

Hitting the slopes in St. Moritz and Lech, lounging in Monte Carlo and Malta.

Contributors Tamlin Magee, Adrian Foster, John Underwood, Nic McElhatton, Aleksi Koponen, Annie Vischer, Sam Kinchin-Smith, Samuel Smith, Olivia Allwood-Mollon, Nancy Gryspeerdt, Claire Coveney, Ben Osborn, Sarah Jackson

47. Motoring

Test driving the new BMW 4 Series Coupé.

All material in Kensington and Chelsea Review is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage or retrieval system without prior permission of the publishers. Colour transparencies and photographs submitted for publication are sent at the owners’ risk and while every care is taken, neither the publishers nor their agents accept liability for loss or damage however caused. The publishers can accept no liability whatsoever of nature arising out of nor in connection with the contents of this publication. Opinions expressed within the articles are not necessarily those of Kensington and Chelsea Review and any issue arising there from should be taken up directly with the contributor.

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Read All About It John Underwood and Coco Khan give us a rundown of news from the worlds of art, culture and the plain intriguing, all handpicked for the Royal Borough resident Gordon Ramsey opens new restaurant in Battersea London House, the latest addition to the globe-spanning Gordon Ramsay Group, is now open for business. Based in culinary hotspot Battersea Square, the extensively refurbished restaurant will focus on quality British ingredients under the guiding eye of Irish head chef Anna Haigh-Kelly, back in the UK after years working everywhere from Paris to LA, and restaurant manager Paul Halliwell, who seems to be single-handedly championing the SW food revolution with previous stints at La Trompette in Chiswick and The Glasshouse in Kew. The menu is available now; we’re particularly tempted by the roasted venison haunch and braised pig’s head croquette; but once the weather gets its act together lighter dishes like crab and scallop tortellini and gremolata-crusted yellowfin tuna will be just what the doctor ordered. And if you’re not in the mood to eat, the remodelled central bar offers London bottled beers and bespoke cocktails. The perfect addition to Battersea’s booming food scene.

Missing Imperial Faberge Egg on display in Mayfair’

One of the missing Imperial Fabergé Easter Eggs made for the Russian Royal family will be on public view at Court Jewellers Wartski in Mayfair in the run up to Easter. The magnificent Third Imperial Fabergé Easter Egg will be on view for four days only from the 14th April 2014 and is unlikely to be seen again in public for a long time. The tragic story of the last Tsar and his family has been fascinating the world

for almost a century and most people will immediately associate the iconic Fabergé eggs with the Russian Royal family. Only 50 of these lavish works of art were ever created, each of them a unique design and a certain mysteriousness is attached to all of them. After the revolution the Eggs were seized by the Bolsheviks. Some they kept, but most were sold to the West. Eight of them, however, are missing of which only three are believed to have survived the revolution. Now, one of them

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has been discovered under the most miraculous circumstances. See the ultimate Easter Treasure and hear how this priceless egg, picked up at a bric-a-brac market was saved from the melting pot. Viewings take place 14th to 17th April 2014 at Wartski, 14 Grafton Street, London W1S 4DE. For more information, please visit or call 44 (0) 20 7493 1141. Open to the public 9.30am to 5pm. Entrance is free, but queues are expected.

Crn Reveal Latest Superyacht

It’s not really yachting weather in the UK (unless you’re from Somerset, in which case a few weeks living somewhere that floats would presumably be fantastic), but in Italy it’s business as usual for the luxury seacraft industry. CRN have unveiled their latest project, Chopi Chopi, which at 262’ is their largest ever yacht; eighty people per day have toiled for the past two years to get her ready for the waves. Chopi Chopi’s christening in Ancona, CRN’s home city, was attended by thousands, with select guests enjoying a meal inside CRN’s shed - half-finished boats and all. She’ll be delivered in May; we’ve got our eye on a poker game that should net us berths in steerage.

Chelsea Design Showroom fuses tech and comfort

We’ve finally made it down to the new collaborative design showroom for Chelsea interiors aficionado Louise Bradley, and lifestyle tech specialist Creston – and what a sight it is. The new site is located in one of the capital’s creative hubs, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour. Mastering the balance between form and function, Louise has created a beautiful

interiors scheme in which Crestron has subtly integrated a luxurious system of automated lighting, heating, security, home entertainment and more. The showroom features two sophisticated living room spaces and a stylish kitchen area, showcasing everything from luxurious cinema room technology to fully integrated lighting for the home. Without any switches, lights or speakers on display, the showroom highlights what can be achieved when the two

disciplines of interior design and home technology work together. Managing the showroom will be Crestron’s latest appointment, Linda Furino, who will be working with the integrators, end-users and members of the design community visiting the showroom. To book your appointment at the showroom, contact Linda on 0207 352 0028 or go to

The Conran Shop launches extensive food offering to celebrate 'A Season in France’

New To Shelves

A new product has stolen our hearts at KCR Towers. No, it’s not a supercar or an original George Condo, but a £1.99 frozen dessert that is new to shelves. Aimed at adults, rather than the family market, Lushice is a light and healthy frozen dessert, with a bit of alcohol for…well why not? Lushice sorbets are available in four popular cocktail flavours; Mojito, Pina Colada, Strawberry Daiquiri and Margarita. The Mojito sorbet has already received a Gold Star at the Great Taste Awards 2013.

Sam Cam drops into Westbourne Grove’s Durbar

Last year, our Editor was glad to award Shahim Syed, head chef of Westbourne Grove eatery Durbar, the Chef of the Year Award at 2013’s Asian Curry Award. For the restaurant, it’s onwards and upwards as its celebrity clientele goes A-List. The most recent addition is none other than the UK’s first lady, Samantha Cameron. With a new lunch menu, there’s never been a better time to visit – who know who you might bump into… For more information visit

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The Conran Shop, the original concept store, will be introducing a wider range of specialty food products. From this April, the shop will stock  exclusive French brands as part of the upcoming 'A Season in France', a  celebration of French culture influenced by Le Corbusier, the lavender fields of Provence and holidays on the Riviera. The curated collection of the hottest French names in art, furniture, food and drink will pay tribute to the country that has over the years  influenced and been championed by the Conran family. Food brands brought  exclusively to London will include the Aix & Terra Provence range of  delicious dips,  a selection of Jean Brunet products including their  “Pate de Jambon” and an assortment of traditional french foods from  Conserverie St Christophe. From truffle carpaccio and trios of rilettes to petit beurre biscuits  and duo of jams. The food reflects the joys of France and is all  beautifully packaged and presented

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Dig Her Out Aleksi Koponen visits Happy Days at the Young Vic and finds in it an unconventional romance strangely fitting for Valentine’s Day The other day, a friend of mine told me she saw seeing the new Young Vic production of Samuel Beckett’s Happy Days on February 14. She made it clear to me that it wasn’t a Valentine’s date. The stage consists of a steep mountain range, at the centre of which Winnie is buried waist-deep in sand. Natalie Abrahami’s production is a measured and sharp take on the play. Firmly a part of Beckett’s middle work, Happy Days is already playing with the extreme abstractions of Beckett’s late plays but, rather than the late plays Happy Days still demands what it is to live with other people. Juliet Stevenson, who carries the play as Winnie, is more brittle than previous Winnies, more acute than, say, Rosaleen Linehan’s unfazed Irish matron. Stevenson’s performance is an angular one, more stinging than the soft-focus Linehan. The director Natalie Abrahami is an old hand with Beckett. Abrahami cut her teeth in directing Lisa Dwan in Dwan’s first Not I, a play which Dwan will perform in the West End in February. Beckett gives little leeway to the directors and designers in his minute stage directions but Abrahami’s decisions for the piece are coherent. She speaks about ‘resilience in the wilderness of existence’ that runs throughout Beckett: nowhere is it as evident as in Happy Days. Vicki Mortimer’s set echoes the angularity as well. In this production Winnie is lodged in a steep rise of craggy rocks, and the three-dimensional set, around which the audience curls, counters the classic ‘flat’ design for the play. At first the austere background and the object in Winnie’s bag don’t obtrude but work in unison with her, and with the audience. But the uncertainties plague her endless speech: ‘But normally I do not put things back, after use, not, I leave them lying about and put them back all together, at the end of the day,’ Stevenson’s Winnie ponders in her self-doubt. The desert is clearly a waste land in this production, which turns on Winnie and the absent Willie, and sets out to destroy them both. Faceless assistants operate a shield, a kind of tent, which covers Winnie’s head at the outset and during the interval. The assistants walk across the stage in white overalls and wellies, protecting themselves from a post-apocalyptic epidemic, or better still, from the elements themselves. To bring assistants into the militant minimalism of the set is to make an enormous choice, one that is echoed in the ‘bell’. Not any alarms, in this production the morning and night bells are like amplified road drills next to your ear. This is Beckett mixed with Cormac McCarthy. Winnie’s absurd, funny confinement becomes a true plight in the second act, when the language fragments to shards. Winnie can now barely communicate and the forcefield of her strained optimism is much tighter than in the first act. The second act is when Paule Constable’s golden, ‘holy light’ comes into its own, as if in an etching. The image of Winnie in a golden sepia light, more haggard now, like a character from William Hogarth, is now up to her neck in sand. The crags around her blaze and become a Gustave Doré illustration in their contrast of yellow and grey. Despite the cruel elements, the couple has each other. The relationship dynamic is one of the most tragic in Beckett. ‘This will have been a happy day,’ says Winnie, when Willie interacts with her even the tiniest bit. Monologues are free but ultimately anxious; dialogues

“Despite the cruel elements, the couple has each other. The relationship dynamic is one of the most tragic in Beckett” an uneasy relief from them. The positions of Winnie and Willie have been carved decades ago. Beckett shows that true separation is impossible, despite it being what the characters truly want. ‘If only I can bear to be alone,’ says Winnie. ‘Just to know that in theory you can hear me even though in fact you don’t is all I need’. This hearing is the connection between Stevenson’s wren-like Winnie and David Beames’ gormless Willie. The second half in which

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lameness and confinement of the relationship are taken to their conclusion is heartbreaking. Of course, Beckett has second-guessed audience’s reactions. Winnie’s interjections about another couple, called either Shower or Cooker, is there to pre-empty the most obvious questions of the audience. ‘What are you meant to mean?’ and ‘Why doesn’t he dig her out?’ Winnie quotes the couple. No one should want to become Shower or Cooke, or there’s no answer to those questions. It’s equally difficult to ask Winnie to give us a deeper meaning on a postcard when it is evident that she knows as little as the audience. ‘Something tells me,’ she says to herself, ‘cast your mind forward, Winnie, to the time when words must fail – and do not overdo the bag.’ In a time when every narrative arc is streamlined to make sense and move the story forward like a lightning, it’s refreshing to go back to Beckett and see how much mileage one can find in stasis. The movement is there, even though it’s almost nonexistent. Witnessing this very slight movement is perhaps why seeing the Young Vic’s Happy Days on February 14 is not a completely doomed idea.

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ENO Peter Grimes 2014 chorus (c) Robert Workman

Pills, Jazz and Bizarro Sex Acts Sam Kinchin-Smith visits Peter Grimes at English National Opera and finds it conceptually confused though aurally exhilarating When David Alden’s production of Peter Grimes  arrived at the ENO for the first time, in 2009, critics accustomed to directorial innovation along the lines of “we’ll set it in the year it premiered,  even though that’s not what Britten intended” were blown away. Here was concept, choreography, the Practice of Theatre! Here was Weimar Expressionism sharing a stage with uber-marionettes a la Edward Craig, a largely realistic Peter (albeit one with a ridiculous fringe) in the centre of an ingeniously stylised set. Here was the familiar East Coast take on Dylan Thomas’s Llareggub only this time laced with pills, jazz and bizarro sex acts. At the beginning of Act III for example, Rebecca de Pont Davies’s affected Berlin Lesbische Frau Auntie slipped a lead around the neck of a young woman dressed as a sexy rabbit and dragged her offstage. Etcetera etcetera, it goes on. A couple of reviewers found themselves a little bemused but were swiftly drowned out, like voices of reason in the Borough. Theatre historians -- indeed, historians of any kind -- don’t get much of a look in at the opera, hence why nobody, to my knowledge, asked why Russian performance techniques from the second decade of the 20th century, German performance cliches from the third and an English setting from the fifth (this one’s set in 1945 too) might be

expected to shed more light on, and wring more power from, an opera rooted in early 19th-century Suffolk. Five years have passed and much of the subversive lustre has faded. This is less a product of time passing -- it’s not like Meyerholdian Biomechanics have become British opera’s go-to trope in the meantime -- than of the revival’s timing, in the immediate aftermath of a Britten centenary that saw two wildly successful rival Grimeses (one by Opera North, one on Aldeburgh beach) locate potency in more obvious places: good acting, for example. (Yes, Grimes on the Beach also benefitted from novelty -- real sea, real rain and real shingle -- but it was the sense that its characters were real people that made it so uniquely affecting.) Good acting is an asset Alden’s production lacks, Stuart Skelton’s Peter lumbering and anguished and rather obvious, Leigh Melrose’s Ned Keene spivved up to unprecedented hattwirling heights, Felicity Palmer’s brilliantly mannered Mrs Sedley the best interpretation by some distance (not ideal considering it’s only the fifth or sixth most important role). Uncharismatic performances were buried under a succession of high-concept stagings of varying degrees of success. I didn’t love the storm in the Boar at the end of Act I, which saw the pub filling up as characters hurtled in under a sort of flapping wall, and Peter ‘appear’ sitting on a chair. The often-bathetic opening of Act II, on the other hand, with

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Ellen and Peter’s ‘prentice’ quiet on a beach was elegantly rendered here, Paul Steinberg’s promenaded seascape somehow cold and hard and cruel and bright. Directorial flourishes were fuzzy by comparison: the decision to play Auntie’s Nieces as horrorshow schoolgirls, for example, stylised and sexlessly underage; and the decision to have Peter physically overpower one-armed Balstrode during one exchange. Iain Paterson’s Balstrode felt a little underweight, much like his Wotan during the Barenboim Ring cycle at last year’s proms. Is he being cast in the right parts? He sounded fantastic, though, as did the entire cast and, in particular, the chorus and orchestra. One of Alden’s best decisions was to have the chorus crescendo directly to the audience, the framing almost Brechtian, and Edward Gardner’s conducting was incredibly exhilarating, warm and fluent and then suddenly confrontational: each Interlude was a mini psychodrama in its own right. Skelton’s exploration of the opera’s pianissimo passages (including a devastating, remarkably quiet ‘Now the Great Bear and Pleiades’) was singularly gorgeous, while Elza van den Heever’s Ellen matched him with authority and great clarity. But it was a production that made me feel like an aesthetic conservative. I’m not an aesthetic conservative, so that I was made to feel like one, is a problem.

a rt

Michael Wolf

It is the first time that this series by German-born photographer Michael Wolf has been presented at this scale in London. This may well be because a suitable space has not been available, for scale is the appropriate word. All five of the major prints in this small show are nearly two metres in height, and well over a metre in length. Indeed, scale is very much the theme of this series. In this exploration, Wolf documents the development of the city of Hong Kong, his hometown since 1994, via its architecture. Specifically he depicts its aggressive expansion through its residential high-rise skyscrapers. Apparently he began the project following the outbreak of SARS in 2002, as rapid spread of disease is just one complication of high density cities. In an age where we are bombarded daily with visuals through the media and advertising in which digital alteration in photography is commonplace, the power to shock via a non-manipulated image is rare, but these astonishing images have not been doctored. Speaking specifically about one of the largest images in the series, #39, an image taken in Tseung Kwan O, one of Hong Kong’s many new developments, Wolf

says, “This image is beautiful and harrowing at the same time. Viewed from a distance, the photograph could be mistaken for a supermarket barcode, but up close, the brutal reality of life in a megacity becomes apparent.” Wolf deliberately leaves the sky and ground out of frame in these images. The effect creates an illusion of indeterminable size, inhabiting the mid-ground perspective so that the repetition of form, line and colour become disconnected from reality. This is heightened by the fact that not one person is captured within the images, further detaching the viewer from the subject. The photographs are numbered instead of named, further reflecting the anonymity of living in one of the most densely populated places in the world. Over 7 million people live within 1104 square kilometres due to land mass restrictions, hence the need for Hong Kong’s buildings to be propelled upwards - Hong Kong now contains the more skyscrapers than any other city, 293 in total currently. In Kwun Tong, one of the most densely populated areas, there are over 56,000 people per square kilometre. To put this in perspective, London has 5285 per square kilometre.

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For me however, the most interesting large-scale image is #119; rows upon rows of balconies act as frameworks upon which the buildings inhabitants hang their belongings. These personable items include washing drying on hangers, ancient air conditioning units, and precariously balanced potplants. In the absence of people in a series documenting the affects of overpopulation, it is these ‘things’ that hint at the personalities of the individuals that live in these conditions, and anchor the viewer back from the disorientating sequences and shapes of the buildings themselves. The exhibition also includes several of Wolf’s smaller images. These fragmentary scenes once again suggest the characters of the people whow inhabit the ever-changing streets of Hong Kong; from workers gloves drying on a spiral of barbed wire to a used mop hanging from a fire escape. These are a nice accompaniment to the larger series, but do not of course incorporate the same sense of technical wizardry that Wolf demonstrates in his skyscraper shots. These images are brilliantly composed, and manage to offer a fresh perspective on the cultural identity of Hong Kong which is both visually arresting, and somewhat terrifying.

Architecture of Density #39 (c) Michael Wolf, courtesy of Flowers Gallery

Claire Coveney reviews Michael Wolf’s photography series, Architecture of Density, at Flowers Gallery, London

C u lt u r e w i t h C h ri st i e ’s Right: Interior of the media room at the Château Including: Lot 75 Constitution by Jonathan Wateridge, British (B. 1972) oil on layered perspex 61½ x 84 x 7in. Estimate: £50,000-80,000 Left: Lot 123 A set of twenty Louis XV style grey painted dining chairs covered in green mohair lelievre velvet Estimate: £8,000-12,000

Chairman of Christie's South Kensington, Nic McElhatton returns to Kensington and Chelsea Review for Christie's monthly instalment of insight into their world of auction This Spring Christie’s South Kensington will offer for sale the inspiring collection of ‘Les Trois Garçons’, Michel Lasserre, Hassan Abdullah, and Stefan Karlsson, who are best known for their Shoreditch restaurant of the same name. The restaurant has long been a celebrity destination, for stars such as Madonna, Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow, Grace Jones, Kate Moss, Valentino, Damien Hirst, Tracey Emin, Tom Ford, Gilbert & George, Ronnie Wood, Yoko Ono and Bjork. The trio are also the proprietors of the glamorous cocktail bar Loungelover, café-come-design shop Maison Trois Garçon. The auction comprises approximately 400 lots which come predominantly from their Château in the Vendée, Château de la Goujonnerie, but also include items from their London

home, as well as a small number of iconic objects from their thriving restaurant, estimates range from £500 to £80,000. The colorful interiors of the trio’s private homes are just as magnificent as the well-known interiors of their restaurant, cocktail bar and café-shop. Their daring juxtapositions and use of colour create a powerful and decadent mise-en-scène for the 21st century, which will inspire new and established collectors and interior designers. The collection includes: Post War and Contemporary Art, 20th century design, sculpture, lighting, ceramics, soft furnishings, and garden furniture, all of which will be on view in our South Kensington saleroom. For more information visit:

Garden of Eden erotic art, antiques and collectables

Heavenly Bodies in Chelsea Where East meets West in the world of erotic art

“Erotica is not a dirty word”, says Olivia Eden, owner of aptly named erotica art gallery Garden of Eden based on the Kings Road in Chelsea. “Appreciating the human body is not something we should be ashamed about”, she continues, “it’s something that should be celebrated and adored, a prime reason behind my desire to open a gallery that does just that.”

533 Kings Road, London SW10 0TZ +44(0)7502 225690


Art Chelsea The New Chelsea Art Fair brings the best UK modern and contemporary art galleries to the King’s Road After last year’s successful relaunch of the new Chelsea Art Fair under the directorship of Ben Cooper, it will be returning to the Chelsea Old Town Hall and open to the public from Thursday, April 10 to Sunday, April 13, 2014. Offering an equally wide selection of well-known artists and some new discoveries, about 40 of the most respected modern and contemporary art galleries from around the country will bring their highlights - many shown on the London Fair scene for the first time. Flat and three-dimensional works of art with prices up to £50,000, making this the perfect Fair for keen collectors and first-time buyers alike. The chic boutique Fair encourages visitors to take their time to look around and talk to dealers in a relaxing, contemporary atmosphere. Anyone interested in learning more about how to start collecting art and decorating their home with art, can attend special tours around the fair. They are available to book on the day at a cost of £10, including entry and £5 going to the Hearing Dogs for Deaf People charity. They

will take place at 2.30 pm on Friday, Saturday and Sunday and more information can be obtained by emailing This year, the Fair sees some of the best galleries from Cornwall and Devon exhibiting on the King’s Road, including Falmouth-based Beside the Wave, Lighthouse Gallery and Stoneman Gallery from Penzance and Totnes dealer White Space Art. They are bringing a wide range of art depicting the South West of England and artists from the region. For the first time, Didier Ltd will be selling iconic jewellery by leading 20th-century painters, sculptors, designers and architects, and as such bringing a new dimension to the Fair, which will work well with some jewellery by other contemporary artists sold by some of the exhibiting galleries. Several galleries will be exhibiting sculptural art as well, but the leaders in life-sized sculptures are Muse,The Sculpture Gallery. Muse’s key sculptor Philip Jackson will be joined by several other established and emerging UK

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and European sculptors. While the Sheridan Russell Gallery focus on UK artists, among them Shaun Brosnan, Stephen Page and Mel Fraser, who will create a life-size sculpture especially for the Chelsea Art Fair. Other top end galleries and contemporary art dealers exhibiting include Francis Iles Gallery, Camburn Fine Art, Carina Haslam Art, Woodbine Contemporary Arts, Wren Gallery and The Russell Gallery, who will bring works by artists collected by well-known art collectors, museums and celebrities around the world.

When: Thursday, April 10 To Sunday, April 13, 2014 Where: Chelsea Old Town Hall, London Sw3 5Ee Open: Thursday, 11-8, Friday & Saturday 11-6, Sunday 11-5 Cost: £6 Up-to-date information and E-Tickets: can be found on or on Twitter and Facebook.

Central Saint Martins Short Courses 2014 Do something different. Advance your knowledge. Discover creative London. Let go. Be inspired.

Animation Architecture Bespoke training Business skills Ceramics Courses for under 19s Creative process Daytimes Digital design Digital film and video Dual city Drawing Evenings Fashion Fine art Graphic design Interior design Jewellery Journalism Online learning Painting Performance Photography Portfolio preparation Printmaking Product design Saturdays Sculpture Summer School Textiles Theatre design Weekends Writing /csm/shortcourses Short Course Office, Central Saint Martins, Granary Building, 1 Granary Square, King’s Cross, London N1C 4AA, UK. Email: Sign up for special offers and updates by email: Telephone enquiries and Customer service: 020 7514 7015 (From overseas dial +44 20 7514 7015)


28a Hereford Road, London W2 5AJ +44(0)207 229 9085

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Not just This Morning... but every morning.


3D Printing, 4D Possibilities Print your own meat, sweets, and a cog for your bike; Tamlin Magee explores the latest in 3D Printing January saw the western world’s biggest trade show for consumer electronics, CES in Las Vegas, roll around again - and this time, among all the TVs, laptops, tablets, speakers and smartphones, the 3D printer had its own dedicated area. While it’s unlikely many of us will be queuing up around the block to buy any of the devices on display, they do provide a glimpse of where the top players in tech are trying to push this industry. 3D printing has been used in academic labs and by architecture firms for quite some time, but it’s only now that they are really becoming a viable home option for consumers. Put (very) crudely, 3D printers work by building models or blueprints put together in computer aided design software - by feeding in coils of material, for example, a machine will slowly begin to construct something in three dimensions. Think Star Trek’s futuristic ‘replicators’ that could clone products - although we are, of course, nowhere near that point. Anecdotally, it is quite a sight to see even the most basic 3D printing kit in action - watching, for example, a machine construct a spare bike part you’re essentially downloading from the internet. As the nozzles whirr away, slowly turning strings of plastic into something more solid, it’s easy to imagine a printer sitting in a museum decades in the future, reminding us of the early, primitive stages of development. Whether they will sit there as curiosity or as something truly disruptive remains to be seen. The industry certainly seems to be evangelising about the latter. True, for consumers, 3D printers are limited in function at the moment. They will, no doubt, make a satisfying talking point in the home, but the end product is not likely to be much more than plastic spare parts, models, art, or toys. The world is far from a theoretical day where 3D printing can pay for itself. For now, home 3D printing will be the domain of hobbyists and artists with the money, curiosity and time to spend. As Make magazine’s 3D printing expert, Anna Kaziunas France, pointed out in a comprehensive CES rundown, a definite trend is towards remarketing the 3D printer as “easy” rather than “experimental”. Indeed, 3D

Systems tried to lead the pack at this year’s CES, announcing a model called CubeJet that promises to bring multicoloured, vibrant 3D printing into the home easier than ever. Indeed, Rajeev Kulkarni, VP of consumer products at 3D Systems said, the focus is to bring full colour printing to the consumer desktop “in a way that’s easy to own and simple to operate,” to redefine the “possibility for designers, educators, architects, marketers and artists, [where] everyone can access vibrant parts quickly, accurately and affordably.” ‘Affordably’ still comes at a cost - the CubeJet is under $5,000, making it cheaper than many of its competitors, but still a serious chunk of cash. Some products at CES gave us a peek at the potential. The BBC excitedly covered a couple of printers that are capable of printing intricately designed confectionary, perfectly safe to eat, by layering strands of flavoured sugar over each other and hardening the sweets into the final product. Although it sounds like sci-fi, the ChefJet Pro will be available to buy for near the $10,000 mark. American start-up Modern Meadow, meanwhile, made headlines by announcing even loftier plans - like printing raw meat - a possibility without the need to hurt a single animal. As unpalatable as that sounds, advances in such developments could really revolutionise the way we eat and farm. It is no surprise, then, that top software designers such as Microsoft are hurriedly baking 3D printing compatibility into their code. Home 3D printing is set to get thoroughly consumerised - which direction they head in, we will have to wait and see. Unlike their monolithic, monochrome, 2D cousins, 3D printers are inspiring the world to talk about tech and all the possibilities that come with each unusual development.

NEW: Stowe Family Law’s wills and probate service is now available at our Central London office.

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Adv e rto ri a l

Antiques expert and BBC presenter, Catherine Southon, shares with us the essentials of Love’s most eternal symbol It is that time of year again, when love is in the air and engagements are announced. The days of dowries are long gone in most European cultures and the dowry idea has been very much reduced to the engagement ring. The tradition of giving a ring as a form of contract for an engagement seems to have originated from Judaism, even though it was then at first in form of a nose ring. During the Roman Empire rings became a more romantic gesture and they were seen as a symbol of eternity. The Romans started wearing engagement rings on the ring finger as they believed this finger to be the beginning of the “vein of love”, the vein that leads to the heart. Unlike in the UK, where an engagement ring is always worn on the left hand, it is custom in many Continental European countries to wear the engagement ring on the left hand when engaged and on the right hand, once married. Since the Renaissance it has become custom in the West to give a ring as an engagement present and when diamonds were first found in 1866 in South Africa, diamond engagement rings became very popular with the nobility and aristocracy in Victorian times. The wars and great depression almost meant the death of the engagement ring, but a clever marketing campaign by one of the leading diamond dealers meant that diamond engagement rings are indeed forever. Another marketing

Catherine Southon - Art Deco Sapphire and Diamond ring, est £400-600

campaign put pressure on men to spend at least one and later two months' income on the engagement ring. Although some men still go through a lot of trouble to find a special ring to propose with, it is very much accepted these days that the bride gets a chance to choose her engagement ring with her future husband. But where to find the perfect ring, which should last a lifetime? There is always the option to go to a reputable jewellery shop or even to have your ring made. Many couples are discovering antique rings again, which tend to be more unusual and better value for money. They may even have a bit of history attached, but be careful, if there is too much history attached, you may end up having difficulties as Kelly Clarkson found out when she bought Jane Austen's ring in the hope to use it as an engagement ring. Best places to find the perfect antique engagement ring are auction houses and antiques fairs. Catherine Southon, whose auction on 26th March has a particularly big jewellery section, says: "Auction houses are a great place to go hunting for engagement rings or a special piece of jewellery as you are likely to pay much less than buying a new ring in a jewellery shop, and more likely to find something unique." Sheldon Shapiro who is based at Grays Antiques Market, but regularly exhibits at the Chelsea Antiques Fair, points out that “an older ring always means better value for undoubtedly better craftsmanship. Even a relatively new ring, which is only 30 to 40 years old will be much better value for money. Good stones and precious metals don't loose their value.” Another regular exhibitor at Chelsea is T Roberts. He will bring a selection of engagement rings to the fair in March and explains “ I currently have a fine platinum 1.40ct diamond single stone ring from c1910 and a fine natural yellow sapphire and diamond cluster ring from c1895, which both represent very good value for money compared with new rings. They are both handmade and very individual and therefore having more desirability.”

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Shapiro - An 18 carat White Gold mounted Emerald Cut and Princess Cut Diamond stone set Ladies Ring circa 1970

Engagement rings come in many different styles and although most rings are made from gold or platinum, other metals are also used today. Diamonds are still very popular and one of the classics is a Tiffany Solitaire ring (the company first introduced the style in 1886 and it now starts from £8,525). Another favourite is the trinity ring – a three-stone diamond ring with three matching stones set horizontally in a row and usually a larger diamond in the centre. These can often be found with a combination of other gemstones, like sapphires, rubies or emeralds. Since her engagement to Prince William, Catherine's style of engagement ring has had a revival. The flower setting with a big gemstone in the centre and lots of smaller diamonds around it can be found in various styles. When you buy a ring, do keep in mind that you will have to find a wedding band to go with it and also think about how practical your ring may have to be – you will wear it every day! For more information on Catherine Southon's auction, please visit The Chelsea Antiques Fair will take place at the Chelsea Old Town Hall from the 19th to 23rd March 2014. Bring a copy of this article for free entry.

s h o ppi n g

Local treasures, one-off pieces, gifts to share and gifts to wear – there’s plenty of ways to say ‘I love you’

Noilly Prat 750ml This French Vermouth is perfect for Martinis £11.99 Available at most supermarkets www. We-Vibe 4 From the makers of the world’s most popular couples vibrator is the new We-Vibe 4 £125 Nelson Mandela, ‘The Window’ Limited edition signed lithograph. This sketch depicts an idealised view of Table Mountain through the bars of a prison cell on Robben Island, and resembles freedom and beauty to Nelson Mandela. £15,000 available through Belgravia Gallery www. Keiko Uchida, Print Slippers and Eye Mask Japanese designer Keiko Uchida is based out of Golborne Road and created Japanese inspired luxury items using kimono materials Print Slippers £35, Eye Mask £16 www.keikouchida. com Gathering Goddess Vintage Hamper No two hampers are the same from Notting Hill’s vintage connoisseurs The Gathering Goddess. Prices start from £125 Rolly’s Chocolate Brownies Locally sourced ingredients, handmade and baked to order. Rolly’s Brownies can be customised with a message for gifts, and are specially packaged to not get squashed during shipping.

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LAPA Limited Edition Travel Duffle Bag Taking ‘His & Hers’ to the next level, only two of each style and colour will ever be available to buy. New colourways will be introduced at regular intervals throughout 2014. £1600 Exclusive to Case Luggage at Harrods www. Jessica de Lotz Wax Seal Cufflinks Stamped by hand so no two are the same, these wax seal cufflinks are made from hallmarked sterling silver and plated with 18 carat gold or rose gold. Prices start from £125 Kirsten Goss Bespoke Charm Necklace Customise your charm necklace and give a bespoke gift from Kensington based jeweller Kirsten Goss 18ct Gold Vermeil chain, sea bamboo and dyed pink agate £125 House of Marley TRANSPORT Watch House of Marley is the new lifestyle label created by Bob Marley's children. Marley watches have sophisticated textures and finishes made from earthfriendly materials including sustainably sourced wood, recycled steel parts and salvaged leather. £109.99 Simone Perele Insolence Bodysuit £120 Jane & Serge. A Family Album; Andrew Birkin, Alison Castle Famed lovers Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg take centre stage in this photo exploration of modern love. £34.99 Published by Taschen. Available from Taschen, Kings Road and

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Imbibe and Dine in Impeccable Style Spend a memorable evening in the stylish surroundings of Aubrey Bar & Restaurant. Sip cocktails from our award winning mixologist Alessandro Pizzoli, and experience fine dining from Chef Byron.

109-113 Queen’s Gate, South Kensington, London SW7 5LR at the

For more details please visit

R e sta u r a n t r e vi e w s

Alyn Williams Words: Sarah Jackson The Westbury Hotel, 37 Conduit St, W1S It’s a Tuesday night, I’ve got my high heels on and I’m heading for a Mayfair restaurant with a rather dishy photographer. Oh the glamorous life of a food critic. I am here tonight to review the Alyn Williams restaurant at The Westbury hotel, and as one might reasonably expect from a Michelin-starred restaurant, it has a dauntingly impressive ambience. One feels one must “haud one’s whist” as my Scottish friend Cat would say. The décor is an intriguing mix of art deco and dark wood with, contrarily enough, a glittery carpet; on first glance I think someone must have dropped a tray of champagne flutes. However, the slightly stiff atmosphere is immediately broken by the wonderfully engaging staff, who opportunely appear and disappear like magical puppets and effortlessly take care of us throughout the evening. And I might add that my eagleeye picks up on how they treat their other guests (who are not enjoying a free meal in return for column inches) and gratifyingly, all seem to be handled with exactly the same graceful courteously. Full marks to your employees Alyn. I’m offered a glass of Rivani Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene Superiore on arrival (which I must say vastly outshines the glass of semi-warm plonk I enjoyed with my microwave meal the previous evening). They sell this for £36 a bottle, which is a bit of a mark up considering you can get it for £8.29 in the real world. On the upside, at least I know I can afford to order a case online later on. With its delicate mousse and medium acidity, it’s a great precursor to the evening. And on the whole, the booze situation at Alyn Williams is exactly what you’d expect from a place of Michelinstarred calibre, with each wine carefully selected to precisely compliment the dish it accompanies, as you will see if you read on. Foodwise, the place is nothing less than an absolute delight, with magnificent

taste and textual combinations and food so lovingly prepared that it would take a lifetime to describe all of the dishes to you. Instead I pick my top three, although I admit the competition is fierce. Leading the way is the ruby red sirloin with pumpkin, mushroom toast and winter truffle. For me this is the ultimate dish. Cooked to absolute perfection, the sirloin is beautifully pink all the way through and so tender that it almost melts on the tongue, due to it being cooked in a Thermodyne (i.e., slow cooked on a low heat) and then roasted in butter. The other main element is beef cheek that’s been braised for twenty four hours in a mirepoix (a mixture of chopped celery, onions and carrots). These delectable heavyweights are sumptuously joined by a pumpkin disc cooked in a pumpkin emulsion, then charred on one side and pumpkin bread topped with oyster, chanterelle and button mushrooms then crowned with grated black truffle. All together now: yum. It’s flawlessly matched with a 2011 Zinfandel, Foxglove, Paso Robles (£44.00). This full-bodied red with its warm

fruity flavour and lovely soft tannins brings out even more flavour and texture to an already top-notch dish. Second on my list is the surprise dish of the night; the chickpea panise with tandoori spices and coriander from the vegetarian tasting menu. This exquisite offering is made by roasting the panise on a planche, then adding cucumber, pickled cauliflower and chickpeas to the mix with smoked aubergine and carrot puree to finish. Creamy and satisfying with a discreetly piquant aftertaste, this little beauty is one I’d urge anyone to try. I enjoy it with a glass of 2012 Roncaglia, Colli Pesaresi, Fattoria Mancini (£49.00), made with a mixture of albanella and pinor noir grapes, giving it the typical crisp, light and citrusy flavour of the albanella, with the structure of pinot noir. An ideal companion to this subtly spicy masterpiece. Third is the deconstructed rhubarb crumble/cheesecake; a charming experience for those who, like me, haven’t an avid sweet tooth. I confess, I am predisposed to dislike this dish on principle because I find it’s so often the case with “deconstructed” dishes that it’s more about the concept than the end result. Ultimately I’m looking for the best taste experience possible, not the guy who’s had the most “Turner Prize meets food” idea. But I’ve got to hand it to Alyn; he hits the nail on the head with this unorthodox dessert. For the cheese element, the plate is layered with cow’s curd. This is topped with rhubard compote, rhubarb sorbet and freshly stewed stems of julienne cut rhubarb, and then topped with oats. This allows me to take pleasure in each separate facet, from the sweet to the savoury, the nutty to the acerbic, the palate cleansing to the claggy. Top to bottom this just works for me. Light and yet robust, it has all the flavours that remind

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me of my mum’s homemade crumble, with a weightless quality that would persuade even a supermodel to enjoy a spoonful. This is yet again expertly combined with a 2011 Jurançon Moelleux, Clos Lapeyre (£45.00); a pleasantly refreshing desert wine, with a pretty low sugar content which works ideally with every component of the dish. Everything we try comes from either the vegetarian or non-vegetarian tasting menus, which would set you back £65 just for the food, £125 with matching wines, £110 with matching beers. And for those with very deep pockets, £190 for the “prestige wine selection.” Interestingly and rather unusually, you’ll notice that the vegetarian menu is the same price as its meaty counterpart, but this is utterly justified. Alyn’s veggie creations are unbelievably imaginative and pleasing to both sight and sensation whilst simply bursting with umami flavours; even you stalwart carnivores should test your molars by giving them a go. I should add that there are at least nine other dishes which I haven’t waxed lyrical about, for the simple reason that I have a word count to think about. I haven’t mentioned for example the suckling pig, or the steamed lemon sole… or the quail, Jerusalem artichoke and blood orange combo which nearly knocks my socks off. If I was wearing any. Which I’m not. Socks do not go with these shoes. So why should you visit Alyn Williams at The Westbury? Because, in short, Alyn has been able to do what many chefs would give their right chopping board for. He has fought for and been given the right to indulge his passion for creativity. And we, as mere foodies, can do naught but sit back and enjoy the skills of a practiced expert as he provides, at a (relatively speaking) reasonable price, pure heaven on a plate.

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Olivocarne Words: Coco Khan 61 Elizabeth Street, SW1W I’ve never eaten Bottarga before. I’ve never sampled Mitro before. I’ve never scoffed Malloreddus or Porcheddu or any number of things on the Olivocarne menu and I considered myself a more-than-learned foodie. Italian food has always been my weakness, and the range of exciting yet simple ideas on the Olivocarne menu is precisely the reason why. Let me set the scene. Olivocarne is a stone’s throw away from Sloane Square and its clientele are well-heeled, often suited and booted diners. It is part of the Olivo Restaurants ‘chain’ – and I use the word ‘chain’ loosely – a network of eateries concentrated in and around Chelsea.

Each eatery is different; one location will specialise in pizza, one in wine, one is more deli-focused and the other a more traditional restaurant. Each is united by branding and style and each is united by sumptuous Sardinian cuisine. Olivocarne is a formal dinner restaurant, and as the ‘carne’ in its name suggests, is geared up to meaty, hearty eating. The restaurant itself is modern and sleek and not what you’d normally associate with rustic Sardinian cooking. This looks far closer to a high-fashion hang in Milan with its bold sea-green walls and mirrored wall hangings. It’s actually quite a small restaurant and you can imagine it being quite the meeting spot for the influencers of the area – in fact, The Duchess of York and Princess Beatrice are sat on the table next to me, and no one is blinking an eyelid. Bottarga is fish roe, usually from red mullet, which I sampled when it was incorporated into the beef tartare.

Mitro is a delicious Sardinian berry liquer, and is the perfect way to start or finish any meal. Malloreddus is a typical Sardinian ‘fat pasta’ and Porcheddu is suckling pig, slow roasted with herbs. I will be completely honest here and say not all of what I ate was to my taste. Perhaps it is my inexperienced palate but I didn’t enjoy raw beef with fish roe, I found the suckling pig hard and dry, and the pasta so fat that I could barely taste the sauce leaving the whole thing (expect for the delicious traditional sausages included in the dish) a bit bland. There were times when the simplicity of the dishes frustrated me but perhaps that was the point. Olivocarne, and indeed all the Olivo Restaurants, are about presenting authentic Sardinian cooking, not adapting it for unfamiliar palates but introducing the cuisine, unchanged to the Chelsea audience. And if widening your taste horizons is on the agenda, then Olivocarne shouldn’t be missed.

….and for those inconvenient times out of the borough 5cc Downstairs at Harrild & Sons, 26 Farringdon Street, EC4A www. Three locations, but this chic cocktail company doesn’t feel like a chain. We visited the Farringdon branch of the trinity and were bowled over by the knowledge of the staff, the historic building, and the delightful nibbles on offer. For the whisky fans, the bar boasts some specialist bottles from India alongside vintage spirits that, despite having an internationally renowned reputation, are no longer in production. If the cocktail range isn’t enough to keep you there all night, there’s a range of on-trend eats (sliders, anyone?) that complete the New York feel of the venue. We’d recommend the pumpkin salad, and ordering your drinks on spec from the mixologist. Pizza Union 25 Sandy's Row, E1 If fast food was like this, the world would be a much better place. Simplicity is king in this bustling eatery that can produce over a hundred handmade pizzas in an hour. Order from the counter a stonebaked artisanal pizza, take your drinks and a buzzer to your table - which will buzz when the food is

ready – and within eight minutes you’ll be chowing down on fresh handmade pizza. With pizzas costing as little as £6, there really is no reason to settle for a sandwich in Pret if you find yourself around Spitalfields. Wine, beers and spirits can also be found on the menu, alongside a rather peculiar and strangely satisfying dessert that is essentially pizza dough, plus nutella. It’s the simple pleasures that count the most. The Pilot 68 River Way Greenwich, SE10 Should you find yourself at a conference, concert, or otherwise at the O2, there is finally an option for the discerning diner. Take a short stroll to The Pilot, a newly refurbished boutique hotel and restaurant that is ambitious, delicious, and a welcome arrival to the (otherwise dire) food landscape of North Greenwich. The Pilot has stood for over 200 years, but does not skim on modern hospitality. Kitted out with a quintessentially-British vintage inspired décor, dine in the new extension which with its glass terrace doors will be a delight in the sunny days to come. Previously, an independent neighbourhood drinking pub, the purchase by Fullers might make a diner feel cautious (no-one likes a

chain after all) but the money they have invested in The Pilot has been well spent. Having appointed a new head chef from the Maritime Museum, the menu seems simple and typically pub-like (steak, burgers, fish and chips) but the execution of these dishes is anything but typical. I sampled the tiger prawn and avocado mousse to start, and although I found the addition of popcorn pointless and pretentious, was blown away by its delightfully refreshing zing. My partner found the pork terrine melt-in-mouth and the addition of the blood-pudding croquettes was much applauded. It’s these little details that epitomises The Pilot, and marks it out from other pub restaurants. The steak was perfectly cooked, the

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triple-cooked chips had the appropriate bite, but it was the peppercorn sauce sang out strongest. There’s not much you can say about steak and chips if it’s well done but a sauce tells you a lot about a chef- and this sauce is saying great things. For my main I selected the special - pasta soaked in 6 hour slow cooked lamb ragu - created especially as a comfort from the rainy weather, and my what a comfort it was. Lamb falling away, rich and hugging sauce on fresh, handmade pasta, the kind of dish I dream about. A generous wine selection keeps the food in great company here, so you really can enjoy a restaurant experience in a pub. I expect this place will be picking up some Rosettes soon… Words: Coco Khan

RReEsta STAu UrRaAn NtT rReEvi V IeEw W sS

Il Baretto Words: Linda Cooke 43 Blandford Street, W1U 7HF One of the most wonderful things about this City is the sheer amount of diversity it has to offer. Just when you thought you’d seen it all, you discover Words: Coco Khan something beguilingly novel. Basil A melting potSW3 of faces, native tongues, 22-24 Street, cultures and history, London never fails to surprise time and ThebySquare is, Let me begin thisagain. review sayingMile ‘five of course, buthere, it is the stars’. We magnificent don’t do stars butpatchwork if we did of districts makeAsupathe rest of visiting London this would that be five. reviewer that hold the most intrigue. Wandering restaurants in and around London’s finest through you the would Royal be Borough ofatKensington borough surprised quite how and Chelsea to come an elegant many eateries,only venues that across can charge more floristnearly abundant with else beauty, discovering than anywhere in the country, an to overgrown graveyardit’syou never knew fail inspire. Perhaps a glib attitude existed on route diner, to workthe in Westminster toward theyour affluent assumption or stumbling cemetery in Islington that despite a across diner’s alikely familiarity with a who makes the most irresistible fancies are range of well-executed cuisines, they might the simplest yetthrowing greatest of Marylebone care less about their away. is one other such London This is simply not true, and neighbourhood; one restaurant newtakes things arefood, always up their here that their theirspringing service, and and nestling in alongside old favourites and value for money very seriously is Outlaw’s. locals. is constantly ringing its way And my,Change it is refreshing. through the streets along tell the Contrary to whatand theechoing name might tunnels under isournot feet. The atmosphere is all you, Outlaw’s a cowboy themed Texa-buzz; especiallyItatisthis There Mex restaurant. in time fact, of a year. wonderful is a little magic in the air. named after its seafood establishment And so totwo-Michelin-starred a cold December evening, mastermind, Nathan the windOutlaw’s howlingat and Outlaw. The swirling Capital around is the Marylebone andthemaking eyes which water. London arm of Cornishmy Outlaw’s Late. Cab? No,asI’mone close, I know Ibest am. isLost. regularly named of Britain’s Ah, here weIt’sgo, Blandford Street. seating Useless restaurants. a modest restaurant Londoner40,thatwhich I am, makes I have made around it feela massive all the fail ofspecial. that attempt to be on time. Accept and more move on. Breathe. Il Baretto looks inviting as I arrive; people are smiling, drinking, and enjoying themselves. A Christmas tree adorned with lights sparkles on the pavement outside and the atmosphere inside is warm and friendly. It is early and my dining companion is already inside; we are sat downstairs in the dimly lit, intimate basement. Upstairs there is a busy bar and convivial atmosphere; groups of friends having a bite to eat and keenly engaged in conversation. All is as it should be. The brainchild of Arjun and Pritam Waney (Zuma, Coya, The Arts Club) and Giuliano Lotto, Il Baretto (translating as ‘little bar’) opened in Marylebone in 2009 but

Outlaw’s at The Capital Hotel

having acquired the building next door and completing an extension, the restaurant was re-opened in October of this year. I’m told the restaurant is fully booked this evening and slowly but surely, the room fills up all the while the waiting staff increasing in velocity as they make their way from pass to table and back again. Service is all go tonight and is not to be faulted. The truth is, the menu is fairly lengthy (with a separate one for the wood-fired oven pizzas) but there are some real showstoppers on there and pleasingly, there is also something for everyone. We choose a selection of starters to share: Burrata with grilled courgettes, fried squid and courgette and Carpaccio of octopus with celery, Weand start with The the ingredients lobster risotto, potato paprika. here area warm, velvet and comforting concoction unquestionably of excellent quality, prepared deftlylasts and presented elegantly. to say, that for a lifetime onSuffice the palate, we made in ourzingy way through everything throwing spikes of orange with and pleasure. classic of Chianti basil. TheAlevel of bottle harmony in theproviding bowl is the alcoholic higher than I backdrop have seentoinproceedings. a long timeFrom and we sample Ithe am Primi sad tocourses, see the plate finished.theMyRisotto guest made into with the artichokes and Pecorino which tucks raw scallops with bacon, is tasty, and and I could feelover it clinging apple andhearty beetroot, is won by how satisfyinglythis to my insides porridge on a refreshing medley is. Itlikefeels like eating cold winter’s crisp salad morning. on a hot summer day, with Roast rack of Lamb mustard and contrasting textures withwith eacha bite. pistachio crust Iis tuck a crowning as isfillet the For main into a glory mighty Roast Saddle of Venison withfalling mushrooms of turbot, perfectly cooked, off in and blueberries. Meat cooked requested, flakes that would make an as M&S advert melt in the mouth and up with mouthweep. Topped withserved a salty seaweed poppingand pairings. We have some buttery butter complimented with turnips mashed potatoes side. fondant A signature and potatoes thaton arethe almost like Della is the baked texture, Seabass,I and in theircasa clean and Salt consistent am many Seabass given theirsolives this day baffled at howhave something simple (or to least give the our daily bread, can tell at on clientele first appearance looks Isimple) you. Once the such salt casing is expertly removed could carry depth of flavour. My by theopts waiter waitress, beautifulI sheen guest fororthe meatythe monkfish. don’t of perfectly can be witnessed and sample his cooked as thatfish would involve sharing thereafter demolished. Recommended. some of my own and neither of us are As soon the–dessert willing to doasthis but hemenu tells arrives, me theI notice the has Fig aSoufflé withsoft vanilla cream. monkfish firm but bite,iceand the Yes please.vegetables My companion chooses lighter still adorning (leeks, mushrooms and goes for theand white chocolate mousse with with parsley garlic) hang perfectly red berry sauce. The Soufflé is a triumph, an with earthiness. oatmeal-coloured silkenmove candyfloss peppered By the time we to dessert, we withfull figtoseeds a light crust which are brim,encased havinginquaffed heartily on worksimported marvellously wine by the with owner the from intensely his own flavoured We vanilla ice acream. The mousse vineyard. share chocolate and limeis flavoursome and Ilooking think the glass it came in tart, a beautiful pud, dark brown had a gratings pattern onofit before my guest to it. with lime green zestgotshining arrive,byand I struggle in to fromAs it –the butpetit arefours defeated its opulence imagine sending The another in the aeven matter of spoonfuls. staff,morsel particularly direction of my are mouth, I can’t help but look the sommelier, learned and passionate aroundthe at thevenue, other diners. People are supping about and are willing to talk steaming sharing pizza, at length bowls about of it. lentil They soup, can share a laugh clinking laughing, more and theirglasses, enthusiasm is embracing. infectious. As Indeed, stomachs arrive,that locals or otherwise, ifempty there’s one thing stands out froma littleexperience fizz of fuss isit’s made of them. All of life is the quite how passionate in this room and theinatmosphere a pulse. everyone involved this humblehas restaurant If Italian foodisisclearly about enjoyment, simplicity, is. The food crafted with care, thea little sophistication family, and this restaurant drinks chosen withandvigour, the staff then, ticks of the boxes.professionalism. Don’t just take acting withallpride in their my no word for it though; go for ata wander, see It’s surprise that Outlaw’s The Capital whatone youitself find. Ita may just be another of those has Michelin star recently, and littlewon’t discoveries. Ienchanting suspect this be the last we hear A meal from it. for two with wine - £150

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Boisdale of Belgravia Words: Sid Raghava Boisdale of Belgravia 15 Eccleston Street London, SW1W 9LX Boisdale is arguably one of the best places to smoke up a Cuban storm, literally, have a little banter with family, friends and work colleagues and sample some of the best cocktails in the Big Smoke. It has got shades of 1920’s Berlin/New York vibes mixed in with some cool jazz (exceptionally, it was funk and soul from the US on the last visit) although it is, primarily a Scottish restaurant with some unbelievably good Aberdeen Angus steaks on offer. And then to complement the cocktails, there is the most compendious of whisky listings varying from Welsh malt whiskies to the Japanese varieties and back to good old scotch. The Cigar Terrace has

Durbar Words: Sid Raghava 24 Hereford Road (off Westbourne Grove), W2 4AA Last year our editor had the pleasure of awarding Durbar’s head chef Shahim Syed the ‘Chef of the Year’ Award at the annual Curry Awards. Yes I know, every restaurant on Brick Lane has a handful of awards that they wear handsomely on their shop fronts like Army medals - but this award was legitimate. Durbar is tucked away in a quiet corner of Hereford Road, right around the bend from the heavenly Tawana Oriental Supermarket. An historic Indian restaurant which has been going strong since 1956, Durbar boasts a diverse

a glass floor which doubles up as the part of the ceiling for the main dining hall. If you lift your gaze when delving into your gamey 10-12OZ Fillet on the Bone whilst sipping on Four to One (4:1 Hendrick’s Gin to Dolin served with lemon stuffed olive) or a Georgia Mint Julep (Bourbon with mint leaves and crème de pêche), you may see a clamour of footsteps enjoying the natural environs upstairs whilst smoking a sweet Sancho Panza or Vegas Robaina. Boisdale’s innovative take on traditional Caledonian menu employs the best Scottish ingredients and all of the spaces including the MacDonald Bar, Courtyard Garden and the Cigar Terrace combine to give the diner a truly enjoyable experience. A stone’s throw from Buckingham Palace, Boisdales of Belgravia is an Eccleston Street eaterie and one of a trio of other restaurants in the chain the other two to be fund in Bishopsgate and the newest and biggest incarnation in Canary Wharf. It’s is a members club as well with regular events such with interesting monikers such as ‘Cigar and Old Fashioned Cocktail Tasting’ and ‘Truffle Burger and Legende Medoc 2010 Lunch’.

There is of course the aforementioned live jazz, blue and soul every night. And most importantly, there is the food. A hearty, wholesome, tasteful lot of it! The bar menu consists of old favourites like Scotch Rarebit and Scotch Woodcock. There are oysters oozing with the most mesmerising flavours imaginable (Tip: Go for a combination of Duchy of Cornbwall Natives and Dorset Rock). There are gorgeous sides like creamed spinach with black truffle shavings and Braised Savoy Cabbage with Fennel Seeds and Smoked Bacon. And finally and most importantly, you have a choice of some rather the delectable cuts of steaks aged to varying degrees of perfection. It’s been really hard to point out any blatant fallibility with Boisdale although the Dangerously Hot Sauce comes close to it in that it is a bit too hot to have any real flavour to enhance your chip eating experience. However barring that, Boisdales of Belgravia has managed to maintain its high standards and stands out as a remarkable bar, cigar lounge and light music venue all centred well with some good old fashioned Scottish fare.

clientele. From celebrity patrons such as Sam Cameron (pictured) and nostalgic elderly locals who still fondly remember that time in the 50’s when it first popped up; an anomaly in a country which hadn’t quite discovered its love of curry. Like most other South Asian restaurants, back then it offered a taste of the exotic alongside some local favourites like Fish and Chips and Sausage and Mash. Times have changed immeasurably but Durbar still stands strong, a name steeped in local history Nostalgia aside, the food is delectable. It has all of the usual suspects that we Brits know by heart but there are some pleasant offerings that stray from the norm. There are specialties like Gosht Hindustani, Duck Tikka Ceylon and Special Chilli Chicken. There’s also a very good selection of Goan, south Indian, Bengali, Parsi and Kashmiri dishes. Chef Shahim prides himself upon the fact he makes all of the spice combinations that go into different curries. He values

authenticity like no other, something that has been passed down generations in this family owned eatery. Also, there is a great lunch takeaway menu on offer for those looking for a quality lunch for just under a fiver. A winner indeed!

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Chesterton Humberts Polo in the Park 2014 starts the summer season in London Attend one of the most hotly-anticipated fixtures on London’s sporting and social calendar. Blending ferociously competitive on-field action, a variety of off-field entertainment and world-class pitch-side hospitality In June 2014, the historic fields of Hurlingham Park will play host to one of the most hotly anticipated fixtures on the sporting and social calendar. Now in its sixth consecutive year, Chesterton Humberts Polo in the Park 2014 will return to the beautiful surroundings of leafy Fulham, located in central London, on 6th, 7th & 8th June 2014 for a weekend of ferociously competitive on-field action, a variety of off-field entertainment and world-class pitch-side hospitality. Chesterton Humberts Polo in the Park 2014 continues the legacy of bringing the exhilarating world of polo back to central London. This polo event has become one of London’s greatest summer outdoor events and will kick off another summer social season in the capital. International polo players from countries such as China, Argentina and

Australia, riding some of the world’s best polo ponies, will thunder across the fields of Hurlingham Park in thrilling, high-octane polo matches to compete for the Chesterton Humberts Polo in the Park Trophy. With a large range of off-field features and doubledecked world-class hospitality areas, Chesterton Humberts Polo in the Park 2014 will offer guests a quintessentially British celebration at the spiritual home of polo. It is the perfect way to kick off the summer season in London with family, friends, clients or colleagues. Launched in 2009 as an exciting and innovative new polo event that hit the streets of London with gusto and glamour, the event went on to win the 2010 and 2011 ‘London Sport Attraction of the Year’ at The London Lifestyle Awards, followed by a ‘Distinction of Excellence’

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award in 2013 from Visit England as a leading outdoor polo and lifestyle event in central London. Chesterton Humberts Polo in the Park 2014 is widely regarded as being one of London’s most innovative and successful summer events. Where: Hurlingham Park, Fulham, SW6 3RQ Event dates: 6th, 7th & 8th June 2014 Friday 6th June: Chukka Friday - London’s Summer Office Party, 12:00 - 21:00 Saturday 7th June: Ladies’ Day - The Social Event of the Summer, 12:00 - 20:00 Sunday 8th June: Finals Day - A Fun Action-Packed Day for Everyone, 12:00 - 19:00

‘THE BEST OUTDOOR EVENT IN LONDON’ For General Admission: 0844 248 5069

For VIP & Hospitality Tickets

Le Vistamar and Terrace Restaurant at Hotel Hermitage

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All that Jazz and Monte Carlo Sid Raghava is intoxicated by jazz and liquor in the heady heights of Monte Carlo The spirit of hedonism is mainlined into the jugular of Monte Carlo or ‘Mount Charles’ as it translates from the Italian. As one of the four traditional quarters of Monaco, it effortlessly oozes grace, style and luxury. The Monaco Grand Prix, French Riviera, Cafe De Paris or Casino life – there are ample reasons to travel south to this delightful part of the world. What drew the Kensington and Chelsea Review to these charmed shores was another ace up their master sleeve –the annual Monaco Jazz Festival. The 2013 line up was stellar as ever. Despite the imminent sludge of a bitter winter on the horizon, there was a warmth that pervaded Salle De Garnier, the legendary opera hall built in 1878 and renovated in 2004-05, courtesy of a host of equally legendary musicians and artists. Whilst there, we thought it might be an idea to sample some of the other delights that make up the Monte Carlo that we all love. Here is the story.

The Monte Carlo Jazz Festival The 8TH annual Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival took place between 26th and the 30th November 2013 under the high patronage of H.S.H. Prince Albert II. To celebrate 150 years of Société des Bains de Mer, this year’s line-up welcomed prestigious artists as well as numerous new talents for the return of the event. Brad Mehldau and Mark Guiliana opened the evening with a display of avant-garde jazz

harking back to the 1970’s and the days of Weather Report. Marcus Miller and the Monte-Carlo Philharmonic Orchestra came together to mesmerise the audience with direction by young conductor Damon Gupton. There was a plethora of amazing astonishingly brilliant collaborations with acts as varied as Robert Glasperon the piano, Kenn Hicks, a singer fusing opera with jazz, and Brazilian harpist Edmar Castaneda. To top it all off, John McLaughlin, the virtuoso guitarist who pioneered fusion jazz along the likes of Miles Davis, celebrated his forty year partnership with Indian Tabla legend Zakir Hussain, for a mini revival of Shakti. The percussive drive of Indian classical sounds meshed with the clinical twangs emanating from McLaughlin’s guitar coming together in an historic 19th century opera hall smack in the middle of the salubrious environs of Monte Carlo is luxury of an indescribable, immense variety. The last two nights consisted of Raphael Gualazzi, an Italian pianist, representing some of the most outstanding and promising European talents in jazz plus improvised soul and funk from Maceo Parker, James Hunter and Charles Pasi. The Monte Carlo Jazz Festival delivered on all fronts and epitomised the essence of jazz and its improvisational and progressive styles. There was soul, funk, opera, progressive rock, classical and every other style you could think of, thrown in and modulated into Jazz. It was beautiful.

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Monte Carlo Bay Hotel and Resort The eastern pillar of Monte Carlo so as to speak, this luxurious hotel comprises of four restaurants including La Trattoria and Fuji, a night club called Jimmy’z Sporting and Blue Gin, a bar with an expansive terrace overlooking the ocean. More uniquely, it also has a sandy-bottomed lagoon with solarium and gardens and a casino within the premises. Monte-Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort 40 avenue Princesse-Grace T. (377) 98 06 41 51 Le Vistamar and Terrace Restaurant at Hotel Hermitage No trip to the Hermitage is complete without a lunch or dinner at Vistamar. Simple, honest cooking honed to perfection lies behind the high level of excellence that has earned Le Vistamar a Michelin star. The beautiful terrace affords the most magnificent views of the harbour and the famous Rock. The decor is the brainchild of designer Pierre Yves Rochon whilst the ‘one fish, one vegetable, one style of cooking’ is firmly that of chef Joël Garault. Please do not dare miss out on The Vistamar’s Bouillabaisse in three gourmet servings. Square Beaumarchais MC 98000 Principality of Monaco T. (377) 98 06 98 98

Hotel Hermitage lobby designed by Gustave Eiffel

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Hotel Hermitage

Choose from a selection of hand picked apartments, villas, boutique hotels and spas.

Wish you were here? At The Big Calm, we create tailor made holidays to suit you and your family in the stunning tranquillity of Koroni Beach. We provide a holistic experience with activities including meditation, massages, pilates, yoga, sailing, sight seeing or simply relaxing on the beautiful secluded beach.

Health & Wellbeing


30th May – 14th June Yoga & Pilates overlooking the sea, beach workouts, help with weight and diabetes issues, adopting new eating habits, reiki, massage and meditation

15th – 29th August Yoga for all, sailing, shallow beach, cycling, fishing and child care

Singles 4th – 18th July Beach parties, sailing, scuba diving, trekking, Greek dancing, sunset drinks & dinner, yoga, reiki and massage

Chill Out 5th – 19th September Beach meditation, sunset dining, reiki, massage, moonlight dancing and relaxing on the beautiful beach “Ladies that Yoga” long weekends Yoga, Pilates & Massage in a beautiful villa

Long weekends, one, two or more week breaks available

Tel: 0333 121 2200 Mob: 07961 888 253 Email: Find us on Facebook - The Big Calm Kefalonia

Cafe De Paris The quintessential French brasserie, Cafe de Paris lies at the centre of all things in the busiest square of Monte Carlo right next to the casino and opera hall, and right opposite Hotel Hermitage. Jean Claude Bruge’s masterful cooking graces this most authentic of Belle Epoque styled bistros. Place du Casino MC 98000 Monaco T.(377) 98 06 76 23 Hotel Hermitage Built in the early 1900s and at a stone’s throw from the famous Casino, Hotel Hermitage is part of the quintessential Monte Carlo experience. If Monte Carlo Bay and Resort exemplifies nouveaux chic, this represents classic luxury. Steeped in history as part of a palace, the property offers a

winter garden, a commodious spa and the Michelin starred Vistamar restaurant. Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo Square Beaumarchais T. (377) 98 06 41 51

Buddha Bar The resplendent Buddha bar, located in a 20th century concert hall, is a restaurant, bar and club. It has been restored and regilded with pilasters and cornices beneath a 7-metre high ceiling evoking a sense of Shangrila-esque oriental serenity. The giant Buddha gazes across a multi-level hall while diners feast on Chinese and South East Asian inspired delights, the DJ dishes out subliminally lazy music and the lounge bar keeps rolling out cocktails, some infused with the green fairy that is absinthe.


The Big Calm Situated in the peaceful area of outstanding natural beauty, overlooking the Ionian Sea on the unspoilt island of Kefalonia, you’ll find The Big Calm. Intertwined with Sesto, the exquisite little Taverna above Koroni beach is close to heaven. It is here that the facilitator Nigel Hawkins found the peace and tranquility he had been seeking 10 years ago, to match the seed of an idea, to open a different kind of holistic centre. One where people with busy lives, could learn to slow down, learn to be at one with themselves and take up practices to transform and give balance to their lives. Working as a garden designer and builder in London he was able to see the stresses and strains people found themselves under in a modern, ever-demanding world of work - where family, home, personal ambition, relationships and time for one’s Self, were gradually ebbed down the list of priorities. Using practices he had found to overcome his own challenges in life, he opened The Big Calm two years ago.

His ethos: to put people in contact with skilled and talented practitioners to put back the balance into their lives, finding purpose and reason to help us find our way through the challenges and choices life presents us with. These practices of yoga, pilates, meditation, life coaching, tantra, reikiand massage, combined with the beauty, peace and tranquility of Koroni, are offered as ongoing practices with practitioners back in the UK to help continue the health, wellbeing and happiness gained from such a holiday. The practices and activities are designed for singles, couples or families. When our partners are not as interested in the holistic practices, Nigel can arrange many other alternative activities available, or encourage you to explore

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this green and stunningly beautiful island. Or simply lie back and enjoy the tranquility of Koroni beach. Accommodation is arranged locally to suit his customers budget, from comfortable apartments, friendly hotels, beautiful Boutique hotels, to luxury villas. Now Easyjet, Ryanair and Thompsons fly there in around 3 hours, you have multiple choice of times to fly, and to also try out his new ‘Ladies That Yoga’ long weekends. Nigel and his helpers will be happy to take your calls and advise you on all your requirements and answer any questions you may have for a beautiful holiday, with a difference. Call him now, you just might find your Self!

PRIVATE JET TOURS. SIMPLY THE FINEST WAY TO SEE THE WORLD. L E T C A P T A I N ’ S C H O I C E S H O W Y O U T H E W O R L D I N C O M F O R T, S A F E T Y A N D U N PA R A L L E L E D LU X U RY Imagine you had the luxury of a private jet and could fly to places you’ve always wanted to visit, freed from the constraints of scheduled transport. That’s the premise behind Captain’s Choice Private Jet Tours. Fully inclusive tours to some of the world’s most fascinating destinations, with expertly planned itineraries, unrivalled hospitality and impeccable service. You’ll be looked after throughout by a dedicated cabin crew, and a tour escort team which includes a doctor. Truly the finest way to travel.




On this incredible 19 day journey, discover India, Nepal and Bhutan - countries steeped in history and rich in awe-inspiring landscapes. Visit the stunning Amber Fort in Jaipur, discover the Holy City of Varanasi and enjoy a serene boat ride on the Ganges at dawn. Explore Nepal’s capital Kathmandu in the foothills of the Himilayas and the spectacular landscapes of Bhutan’s Paro Valley. You’ll also visit bustling Delhi, and of course, the dazzling Taj Mahal.

This unique tour circles the globe, departing from London, take in Mexico, Brazil, Easter Island, Tahiti, Australia, Cambodia, India and Africa. You’ll visit iconic sites like Chichen Itza, vibrant Rio de Janeiro, the majestic Iguassu Falls, remote Easter Island, and Sydney’s stunning harbour. You will also visit Angkor Wat, marvel at the Taj Mahal and spend a few days on Safari in the Serengeti. This is truly the journey of a lifetime.

On our incredible 25 day adventure you will discover Ghana, Namibia, South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, the remote island of Madagascar, Tanzania, Rwanda and Ethiopia. You will visit remote regions, explore sweeping deserts and teeming jungles, visit iconic sites such as Cape Town’s Table Mountain and the mighty Victoria Falls and marvel at the incredible wildlife of this vast and extraordinary continent.

Prices from £21,950 per person, twin share Tour dates: 25 September -13 October 2014

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CALL 0845 303 2886 WWW.CAPTAINSCHOICE.CO.UK Ken & Chelsea_210x297_Apr14.indd 1

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Luxury cruising at 35,000 feet Have you ever dreamt of uncovering the secrets of Marco Polo along the ancient Silk Road, wandering like a Maharaja in the grounds of the Taj Mahal, or even completing a full circumnavigation of the globe in the wake of Sir Frances Drake? Well, now you can, courtesy of Captain’s Choice, the leader in luxury escorted travel. All these experiences, and much more, feature in their unrivalled selection of extraordinary tours, travelling by luxury private jet and staying at some of the world’s most renowned hotels. For many, the dream of visiting exotic, iconic destinations can be thwarted by the complexities of planning such a journey, or concerns about safety and comfort. But with Captain’s Choice everything is taken care of for you. Itineraries are meticulously planned to include all the must-see sights as well as hidden gems. Accommodation is in leading hotels, such as the Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra, with its views over the Taj Mahal, and the incredible Four Seasons Safari Lodge in the heart of the Serengeti National Park. You will dine at fine restaurants at each destination, with the option to make your own choice on dine-around evenings, and there’s

also a fantastic choice of sightseeing options to choose from in select destinations. Throughout, travellers are accompanied by a dedicated flight crew and looked after by an experienced tour escort team which includes a tour doctor, for ultimate peace of mind, especially in some of the remote places visited. The real luxury of these tours is being able to travel by private jet. It’s an experience that is exclusive right from the start when you check-in - VIP style - at the luxurious Harrods Private Jet terminal at London Luton airport. On board you will enjoy the comfort of businessclass seats, wide aisles, fine hospitality and a standard of personalised service you won’t find on a scheduled flight. More importantly, private jet travel means that flights can be planned at convenient times of day and airports chosen to be within easy reach of each destination. And you won’t

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have the hassles associated with some larger airports such as immigration queues and baggage handling, which are all taken care of for you (wherever possible) making the journey so much more civilized than regular travel! The new selection of Captain’s Choice Journeys by Private Jet is out now and includes 5 amazing tours. From an in-depth discovery of India, Nepal and Bhutan, an incredible tour of South America and a trip along the Silk Road, to a spectacular new journey to remote regions of Africa and an epic Circumnavigation of the Globe adventure, which takes guests around the world in 21 days, Captain’s Choice has created the ultimate range of inspiring itineraries that allow you to discover some of our planet’s most incredible places in unparalleled style. To find out more or request a copy of Captain’s Choice new brochure call 0845 303 2886 or visit

Gozo - Cliffs by Clive Vella

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Island Retreat: Malta Sam Kinchin-Smith and Nancy Gryspeerdt visit one of Europe’s most historic island escapes, to find out whether the Gozo life is still the good life when the days get shorter and the nights get stormier The legend of Gozo, the second largest island in the Maltese archipelago, stretches back further than most. As any classicist will tell you, this fecund isle situated slap-bang in the centre of the Mediterranean is the likeliest location for ‘Ogygia’ in Homer’s Odyssey, where naughty nymph Calypso traps Odysseus for several years. Odysseus is stupefied with feasting, drinking and lovemaking, against a fragrant backdrop of wild herbs, luscious countryside and a salt-spray breeze. (He eventually floats away on a raft, leaving poor old Calypso – and most readers of the Odyssey – asking themselves, why on earth didn’t he stick around?) Gozitans do their best to perpetuate the association: shacks bearing signs like CALYPSO SCUBA and HOMER’S FISH RESTAURANT abound in the island’s resorts. But the real question for the 21st century explorer isn’t whether Gozo was once thus; it’s whether it’s like that now. TV producers perpetuate the island’s legendary status – HBO chose to film several sun-bleached Game of Thrones scenes on Gozitan shores – but the rest of us probably associate Gozo more with affordable diving packages than revelling in nature’s bounty.

We spent a long, late-autumn weekend at its most opulent 5* destination, the Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz, to put its yearround paradise island credentials to the test.

THE IMPORTANT THINGS We flew into Malta’s airport, then sat on deck for our chugging ferry-hop to Gozo. First impressions of our destination were all honey-coloured, siesta-ing villages and farmers driving archaic trucks – so much so that the foyer of the Kempinski, 15 minutes drive from the tiny Mgarr Harbour, seemed almost implausibly palatial. Our welcome party made it abundantly clear that whatever we wanted, it could be arranged. Within the parameters set by the island’s resources, that is – one doesn’t come to Gozo to do everything, one comes to enjoy the important things done very, very well. We decided to take the Kempinski staff at their word and made a beeline for the spa, the hotel’s most renowned asset. And rightly so: it hosts the largest centre for the Indian traditional medicine system Ayurveda in Europe (this draws many visitors in its own right), alongside more

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conventional practices and facilities – a curated selection of treatments inspired by the seasons, a hamam and the usual essentials ­– in a grandiose, neoclassical interior. We opted for the excellent ‘Treat for Two Couple’s Massage’. With few fellow travellers to squabble over facilities with, and a jacuzzi positioned so that we could watch a lashing rainstorm from a bubbling cocoon, we began to think that November might be the best time to experience some of Gozo’s treats. We ate at the hotel’s main restaurant L’Ortolan, half simple, Gozitan elegance – space and wood – and half Parisian standards of tableware. The wine-list contained French and Italian staples alongside Maltese chardonnays; a refined pan-European menu was complemented by traditional specialities. In pretty much all respects, the local option reigned victorious: the rich, sweet casserole of kid goat was satisfyingly superior to an ensemble of wild boar, red cabbage and chocolate. A punchy, grassy Gozitan vermentino was the highlight. (A quick word to the wise: wine from the Maltese archipelago is good, particularly the remarkably consistent whites. Start taking it seriously.)

HEART OF GOZO The next day we delved into the island’s history and culture with irrepressible guide Clive, who works for Heritage Malta (history and tourism are inextricably linked here). Our first stop was the capital Victoria’s 16th-century walled citadel. From the ramparts, Clive gave us a brief history of the archipelago. The Phoenicians, Ottomans, Knights of St John and the British (amongst many others) have variously conquered the islands for strategic reasons. The resultant culture is above all extraordinarily religious, with church attendance in Gozo at around the 75% mark. (From our excellent vantage point the evidence was clear to see: nearby village Xewkija’s towering church has a capacity of 3000; the population of Xewkija also happens to be 3000.) One church we visited displayed physical testaments to living faith: entire walls are plastered with a ghoulish patchwork of bandages, casts and photographs celebrating modern-day miracles. A less intense highlight came in the form of the Heart of Gozo museum, an impressively conceptual attempt to make sense of the island’s many layers of history using its own architecture. Ironically, though, this most Catholic of islands’ greatest edifice predates Christianity by three and a half millennia. The Ġgantija temples are a Neolithic complex more ancient than the pyramids of Egypt and trilithons of Stonehenge. Though it’s probably fair to say they lack the atmospheric potency of the latter, to stand within one of the apses is to immerse oneself in the very roots of civilisation. Clive’s commentary also put the history of the island in a strongly forward-facing, contemporary context. We learned that Gozo is above all a Cornish Riviera equivalent for the Maltese – currently at least. There are plans afoot to connect the islands with Sicily via a high-speed catamaran service and, most intriguingly, to turn Gozo into an ‘eco-island’ by 2020. This will protect the traditional Gozitan lifestyle and the island’s ecosystem, and celebrate an identity already at bucolic odds with overpopulated neighbour Malta – not to mention open up new opportunities for agri-/eco-tourism, which is on the increase in the form of picturesque farm retreats and pick-your-owns. We visited a pioneering example of this future: the Ta’ Mena Estate, ‘where tradition is daily life’. Ta’ Mena seeks to celebrate Gozo’s unique tranquility and abundant produce (its Ogygia credentials, if you will), rather than its resorts and watersports. Visitors stay in rustic outbuildings and help prepare Gozitan delicacies. Over strong olives, peppered cheese-lets and piquant salt-sweet tomato paste washed down with an elegant portfolio of wines, charismatic owner Joe nonchalantly informed us that Jamie Oliver came all

Gozo - View from the Citadel, below; Ggantija Temples by Clive Vella

the way to Gozo to see what Ta’ Mena is doing. It’s not difficult to imagine Oliver falling head over heels in love. Either by design or coincidence, there is a sense that places like this hit upon Gozitan heartland. The effect is a kind of unpretentious Tuscany-on-Sea. We had time to enjoy our destinations because we wasted so little travelling. Much of the pleasure this island provides is tied up with its remarkable smallness: roughly seven by fourteen kilometres with unmissable things a few hundred metres away from one another. Indeed, the overall effect, viewed from one of Gozo’s terraced hills, resembles nothing so much as a cartoon medieval kingdom.

NATURAL ASSETS We dedicated the next day to an improvised walk: Gozo’s topography had aroused our interest. We headed out armed

Gozo - Azure Window sunset by Guido Bissattini

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only with a couple of Kempinski umbrellas, stopping for a brilliant lunch at Tal-Furnar restaurant in Xaghra. Pungent garlic crispbread, fat focaccia studded with anchovies and onion, and best of all, an entire rabbit smothered in Sicilyvia-Tripoli spiced tomato, all slow-cooked in ‘the one and only old wood-burning stone oven left on the Maltese islands’. Owner Tony poured us excellent syrah from his own vines. And then, aside from the odd pit-stop in a crumblingly gorgeous hamlet, we spent the day on our feet, exploring the island’s natural assets. We walked from west coast to east, cresting hills and trampling farmland (for which we are sorry). On both coastlines we encountered jaw-dropping features. Most prominent is the Azure Window, a huge natural arch flecked with the Mediterranean foam that crashes through it as the sun sets. Flanking it is the Inland Sea – a shallow lagoon which is a popular starting point for dives – and Fungus Rock, tufted with ‘Maltese mushroom’, which the Knights of St John harvested as a dodgy cure for dysentery. The fame of these sites is justified; the combined experience is enough to spark a geology hobby. A couple of hours of northeasterly walking brought us to another rock formation on the opposite coast, the Wied il-Għasri valley. It’s far less well-known but equally stunning; a zigzagging, cave-lined inlet of turquoise water. The adjoining stretch of headland is bordered by lightcatching saltpans – beautiful chequerboards of tessellating pools, 350 years old. The scenery was made all the more impressive by huge November waves, but its exquisiteness is the kind quickly marred by tourists: we recommend avoiding peak season. We’d earned that night’s martinis. As we took them up to the balcony of our suite, overlooking the Kempinski’s herb gardens, the storm that had been announcing itself all weekend blew in – provoking horrified looks from the contestants in a Miss Gozo competition parading around one of the stately function rooms downstairs. We, on the other hand, were delighted. And, snuggled up in blankets on deck chairs, we watched flashes of forked lightning illuminating the fertile hills. It wouldn’t have been much fun to spend our final night in Calypso’s leaky cave, but, comfortable and well-fed in the Kempinski, this island storm felt like the cap on a weekend of unexpected treats. In contrast to most European destinations, Gozo is getting better, not worse. It might not be long until it once again inspires poets and heroes, what with its ‘copses of alder, poplar and sweet-smelling cypress’, its ‘springs flowing with crystal water’ and ‘soft meadows where iris and wild celery flourish’ (steady on, Homer). For more information, and to book, visit

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Bermudan Double Fantasy On a recent trip to Bermuda, Robin Nowacki found himself inspired by the surreal beauty, peace, and splendid isolation of the island – something he then discovered he shared with John Lennon John Lennon – as one of the legendary Beatles - became of one of greatest icons of the 20th Century – with many of the songs he wrote becoming classics. However even this great talent experienced years of difficulty in writing new material – until in 1980 he sailed from New York to Bermuda. In the months before his tragic death, Lennon, who owned a house with a waterfront on Long Island, had become interested in sailing – buying a small boat and taking lessons from a Rhode Island boat yard owner. This interest grew and led to him chartering a 43 foot yacht and sailing, with the boat yard owner as Captain, and two others, 700 miles south-east across the Atlantic Ocean to Bermuda. During this voyage a huge storm blew up lasting several days, and as the Captain became exhausted, and the rest of the crew became sick, Lennon, the novice sailor, found himself at the wheel of the yacht fighting the wind and waves. When they reached the safe haven of St George’s Harbour on Bermuda, and Lennon first encountered the island’s magical peace and beauty, he realised his creative block and been removed by his sailing experience and that within this setting, he could write songs and music again. He then rented a house on the island and over the next two months, using a second-hand guitar acquired from a local shop, he wrote the songs which made up his last album, “Double Fantasy”, which its self was named after a flower – a freesia he discovered in the Bermuda Botanical Gardens. By the time I first heard this story from a Bermudan taxi driver - later confirmed by others including a bar owner in the island’s capital, Hamilton, I had in my few days on Bermuda, already fallen under her spell. From my room situated within the beautiful subtropical gardens of the Elbow Beach Hotel, I could see, hear, and smell the Atlantic Ocean as she demonstrated her many moods - breaking onto the coral reefs which surround the island, washing over the pink and white sands – blue skies with clouds racing – beyond the horizon - seven hundred miles of wild open sea to the next nearest land. By night a crescendo of whistling from tens of thousands of Bermudan Tree Frogs merged with the sounds of the ocean to create the perfect backdrop for a restful night’s sleep. Away from the coast of beautiful pristine beaches and rugged cliffs rolling hills rise made green with cedar and palm trees though which narrow winding roads link picturesque small towns and villages. Bridges link the several inhabited islands that make up the fish-hook shaped Bermuda and within are vast natural harbours offering refuge from from the ocean. John Lennon lived in New York for the last nine years of this life and had not been back to the UK in all that time, so Bermuda being British, must have seemed strangely familiar to him – British cars driving on the left-hand side of the road, red letter boxes, the Queen as Head of State, pubs named after British historical figures, and place names like Southampton and Somerset Village. This was also my experience, the people of Bermuda since the time of Lennon’s visit have chosen by a democratic vote

Grotto Bay Resort with private beach by Robin Nowacki

to remain a British Overseas Territory, so a picture portrait of Queen Elizabeth the Second alongside one of the current Bermudan Premier greets you at the airport, and all cars drive on the left, though most now seem to originate from Japan. The currency however is the Bermudan Dollar which has the same value as the American Dollar – both accepted equally, and with the USA just 90 minutes flight away compared with around seven hours with British Airways from London Gatwick, the vast majority of visitors now are from the States.

– where Lennon landed - founded by the “Forty Thieves” with the UNESCO rated Old Town, and the Royal Naval Dock Yard, sit at either end of the island - both boasting many interesting old buildings and lively atmospheric pubs. To the south west a climb to the top of the Gibb’s Hill Light House offers phenomenal views across the island, whilst the Botanical Gardens – home to the “Double Fantasy” freesia - are close to the Bermudan capital, Hamilton.

THE FORTY THIEVES ON THE ISLE OF DEVILS Early sailors and settlers to the “New World” had been put off this un-inhabited island party due to the dangerous uncharted reefs surrounding it, but also because they believed it to be haunted - full of weird noises – so they nicknamed Bermuda the “Isle of Devils”. For the very first Bermudan settlers to arrive in 1609, it took a two month perilous voyage from England on board a small wooden ship to reach the island, and then they only landed when forced to, after their vessel was ravaged by a hurricane – as they were on their way to settle in Virginia. Once on Bermuda they managed to build an even smaller ship out of the wreckage of the original, on which the majority continued to Virginia, however a number remained becoming the original white settlers – known as then, and still referred to today, as the “Forty Thieves”.

BERMUDAN ACTIVITIES With a year round warm sub-tropical climate and clean clear safe waters in Bermuda’s natural harbours and bays the island is perfect for all forms of water sports and these are widely available. For the more adventurous who are prepared to venture out onto the Atlantic, fabulous Scuba Diving opportunities are available around some of the countless shipwrecks lying out on the reefs, whilst some of the best Deep Sea Fishing on Earth awaits beyond that with serious catches including tuna. Particularly good for all these activities is the recommended Grotto Bay Resort offering a quality allinclusive family friendly packages in a pleasant setting with private beach onto Castle Harbour. Local fisherman Jim West and his young crew on board the Troubadour offer day long fishing exclusions from the pier at Grotto Bay (

MAIN ATTRACTIONS A one day travel pass which can be purchased from most hotel receptions, gives unlimited access to the excellent Bermudan bus service and the ferries which zigzag across The Great Sound and Hamilton Harbour. With one of these passes all the island attractions are within easy reach. Two harbours with fascinating histories – St Georges

NIGHTLIFE In Hamilton most of the nightlife happens along the fashionable historic harbour-side district - The Front. Here alongside designer shops and restaurants are lively and buzzing recommended clubs like Café Cairo offering House and Club favourites from the last ten years, and the R & B and Ragga favouring Bermuda Bistro.

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© Südtirol Marketing/Clemems Zahn

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Magic in the Hills Coco Khan travels to South Tyrol and discovers something fantastic, in more ways than one I have a photo of Victoria Falls as my desktop background. I keep it there to remind me of an important life lesson: the world is bigger than me. I will never forget being pummelled by the beast’s spray, acutely aware as I travelled on the knifeedge bridge across the cavern that if the conditions were right, it could swallow me whole. It would swallow me up in a moment, as it no doubt has done before. I would be gone while it remained, a magnificent spectacle, for a thousand more years to come. It put a lot of things in perspective. Transformative experiences are the jewel in the crown of travel. They are the most sought-after precious commodity, but they are rarely associated with short-haul travel and Europe. When I take a trip to France, Italy, or Spain, I expect to be entertained, to unwind, to dine in opulence, but I don’t expect to be altered, to be moved in some way. And prior to my trip to South Tyrol, I hadn’t been. A little bit of background about South Tyrol. South Tyrol is a bit of Italy and a bit of Austria. The native tongue of the region is German but you will find the city dwellers nimble with Italian, with many being fluent in both. Situated at the very top of Italy, where it borders Tirol, this alpine paradise was annexed from the Austrians in 1919 and is now an autonomous province. As such, it enjoys liberal taxation and

its residents are affluent, well-heeled individuals so expect a developed luxury tourist offering. Like all good melting pots, South Tyrol has taken the best of its influences Bavarian and Italian culture respectively – and united it into one identity. This is helped somewhat by the spectacular climate which offers the picturesque extremes of the seasons. In winter, think skiing and strudel, and in summer, take a short drive down from the hills and find yourself in Bolzano or Merano to enjoy an aperitivo in a glistening sundrenched piazza as the Cathedral bells ring out. In my time in South Tyrol, we heard a lot about the myths and legends of the region. The mountain dwelling people of South Tyrol, cut off from many and often faced with tough conditions, created epic tales and narratives, many of which have been passed down. Stories of witches and cruel kings, stories that acted as quiet dissent to the Catholic Church, but stories now left largely to the idle imagination of South Tyrol’s children, rather than its adults. Except for one bit of true fantasy. His name is Otzi, and he is five thousand years old. Otzi is one the world’s best-kept mummies, found high up in the mountains, and preserved brilliantly over millennia by ice. Discovered in 1991, fittingly by some tourists indulging in a

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© Südtirol Marketing/Max Lautenschläger

© Gärten von Schloss Trauttmansdorff/Marion Gelmini

spot of skiing, Otzi is one of the greatest discoveries by the scientific community in recent times. In Bolzano, the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology is dedicated to the legend of Otzi. Not only can you gaze upon the mummy itself, play CSI with interactive demonstrations of how Otzi met his sticky end, and try on a variety of Bronze Age costume, but you can look upon the original clothes and items of Otzi, perfectly preserved over 5000 years. Exactly how is that the same as Victoria Falls, one of the great wonders of the world, I hear you cry? The curators at the Museum have done an outstanding job of bringing Otzi and his society to life and the similarities between Bronze Age and 21st Century living are uncannily similar. The development of technology using natural materials chimes with our own eco-trends, and a look at Otzi’s cape reveals an attention to embellished detail for what appears to be no practical reason, merely aesthetic. Even man 5000 years ago, likes a bit of fashion. It’s a playful and considered curation and its message is clear. What Otzi teaches us, is something about the human condition, an eternal, whimsical yet resilient spirit we humans have, and always will. It’s a lesson that has stuck with me since, and I never expected it to happen just a short flight away. Not quite buying it? There’s plenty of other attractions. There’s the herb farm Pflegerhof, high up in the hills where in summer you can pick your own herbs and brew teas based on traditional recipes (including a Witches Brew). For the hikers, hiking around the Dolomites, towering gracefully, certainly feels like a once in a lifetime experience, as is dining in the traditional entirely wood-panelled rooms of an alpine home. Many of these latter residencies have become restaurants and hotels and the Pretzhof Farm is widely regarded as being one of the best. For the botanists amongst you the gardens at Trauttmansdorf is an unmissable visit, and features an excellent sculpture from South Tyrolean architectural star Matteo Thun. There’s plenty of delicious Italian fare (speck comes from Northern Italy so you’ll find this in abundance) and Austrian beer on offer but do branch out for the best surprises. The ‘Hugo’, a Prosecco based aperitif native to the region, is without doubt the star beverage and the dumplingravioli fusion dishes epitomise the region’s influence. The South Tyroleans have always said there is magic in the hills. And I have to say, I believe them. For more information on South Tyrol visit South Tyrol is working in conjunction with Culturonda(r), a cultural exchange Interreg initiative supported by the European Union supplying free guides, apps and cultural holiday ideas for South Tyrol. Visit culturonda_lifestyle to learn more.

© South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology

© South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology

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Kulm Hotel - Openair Pool


St. Moritz, Switzerland Errol Flynn, Ella Fitzgerald, Rita Hayworth; West London Living’s Editor, Olivia Allwood-Mollon, joins some of history’s most glamorous skiers at Switzerland’s most exclusive resort 1967: Bardot climbs down from a juddering chopper. Gunther Sachs greets her. Her cases disappear as fast as she arrived, while all around her, specks of colour move on the horizon, circling, sliding, ascending and descending. Ski lifts dance on frosted slopes far, far away. For all its heritage and splendour, St Moritz remains spectacularly unchanged. Little has stirred in these Southern Alps since Chaplin, Hitchcock, Ella Fitzgerald and Rita Hayworth frolicked atop its snowy peaks. A playground for the super-wealthy, and the oldest winter sports resort in the world, it’s one of the few ski destinations unmarred by paparazzi, gold-diggers and wannabes. Old-world elegance, heritage, culture and covert luxury make St Moritz the destination of choice for the discerning jet set. Home to Cresta, Audi Ski World Cup, and FIS Ski World Championships it’s both the snowsport enthusiast and aristo’s resort of choice. It’s also incomparably beautiful, in a wholesome, blue skied, alpine sense. There are of course strings of world-class boutiques, bars and clubs, but St Moritz also has a more serious bent.

Professional skiers flock here for the terrain and Cresta fanatics come from far and wide. Cresta here is a Big Thing. Home to the notorious and deadly toboggan run, with a designated Cresta party room in The Kulm Hotel and the clubhouse just moments away, women haven’t been allowed on the Cresta Run since 1929. It has killed four men, broken the bones of hundreds more, and last year relieved a British army captain of his foot. Even the dashing Errol Flynn went down only once, never to return. The gender consensus was expressed most eloquently by previous Cresta Club president, Julian Board; “The trouble was that women got too bloody good. And that wasn’t popular, so the committee had to find an anatomical reason for them not to do it. Now, I think, the course has got so professional, and so dangerous and fast, that most women I know really don’t want to do it.” Ambling off to lazy, hazy, fondue and wine Chesa al Parc overlooking Lake St Moritz, I really can’t say I take issue. St Moritz is a party town but has, as yet, avoided the overt glitz and nouveau trimmings that blot the landscape of other alpine resorts. It’s at that elusive, transient stage

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where luxury meets heritage, but the nouveau set haven’t quite caught on. Where Verbier has hookers, conspicuous in stilettos and mink, a late night jaunt into the bars and clubs of St Moritz revealed only a motley selection of local schoolteachers, ageing ski playboys, and the odd chalet girl. Professional skiers flock here for the terrain and Cresta fanatics come from far and wide to edge their way closer to Cresta Club membership. Founded by Johannes Badrutt in 1856, the Kulm Hotel lay the foundations for the very first winter snow sports. The most historic five star hotel in town, but neither the most fashionable nor flash, it sits directly above Lake St Moritz. The hotel is not chic in a World of Interiors sense. And neither does it need to be. The rooms are comfortable in the alpine fashion. Reassuringly untrendy - a sort of chintzy, Swiss Peter Jones. With much of the original building unchanged, the early reception still contains the ladder Badrutt and his wife used to reach their bedroom. The hotel is credited with drawing the early-adopters of the Victorian era to St Moritz to discover and create the earliest snowsports. Having bragged to your esteemed editor that I had,

as yet, avoided the flu, I touched down in Zurich a wreck. By day two, I was consigned to my bed, under layers of fur, duvets and extra heating. The staff at the Kulm were exemplary. In Elle Macpherson’s words, ‘People go here foremost for service... I was here once with someone who wasn’t well and a doctor came almost immediately’. Quite. After a day spent under the duvet, I realized I’d overlooked the magnanimous healing properties of the spa. Fuelled by Lemsip I picked myself up and dragged myself along rabbit hole corridors to the calmly clinical Infrared sauna room. The transformation was phenomenal; 20 minutes in I was right as rain. Alongside this the newly renovated spa also includes saunas, steam rooms, salt rooms, waterbeds, relaxation areas, hot and cold kneipp footbaths, a large pool with classical music pumped through underwater speakers and herbal teas and snacks. Steam rises from the outdoor hydrotherapy pool. After a night researching the local nightlife, the last thing I fancied was an early morning dip. I didn’t care how many hot jets were involved. But, overlooking the frozen lake, watching the pink sunrise hit the surrounding peaks through steam and dew and sharp mountain air, it was a transcendental experience. An unbelievable hangover cure. To step up the relaxation quota, the Kulm Hotel’s spa offers a sophisticated menu of massage and wellbeing treatments. I’m a tough critic, but even I drifted off during my massage. The spa is built for romance. Chic, contemporary design at its finest - I challenge the most discerning architect to fault it. And with the option of single sex or mixed nudey areas, it’s the perfect destination for a couple to spend time together. The Kulm Hotel has five different restaurants, offering everything from European haute cuisine to pizza to sushi. Dinner was a lavish affair in the grand ballroom - there is something of The Shining to the Kulm, but in the best possible sense. Think hauntingly beautiful surroundings, combined with large-scale colonial architecture and long, long corridors. Brave the cable car to the Panorama restaurant (4000m altitude) and the 360 views are phenomenal. The highest point in the Engadine mountain range, a glass of Veuve atop Piz Nair goes straight to your head. Ski-yoga is another local offering, focusing both the mind and the muscles for the slopes. Alternatively you can enjoy yoga hikes, taking in the scenery as you traverse mountain paths on foot, stopping at opportune junctures to salute to the sun. I’m not going to lie, I find both hiking

Kulm Hotel - Cresta Run

“Old-world elegance, heritage, culture and covert luxury make St Moritz the destination of choice for the discerning jet set” and yoga tedious. But connecting with your body in such beautiful surrounds is as far removed from the stale and worthy yoga mats of a studio class. It’s almost impossible to feel unhealthy in St Moritz. The Corvatsch mountain can be closed for private night skiing, and if the moon is full there’s no need for flood-lights. Heavenly for seasoned skiers, there’s even a traditional skiin après ski joint at the bottom. Being a cautious, (read

Kulm Hotel - Lobby

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Kulm Hotel - Sauna

rubbish) skier, I was sent a snow boy to rescue me. We careered down the mountain on his snow gondola, flying perilously close to cliff edges at a million miles an hour. Despite my protestations it was both the scariest, and most exhilarating ride of my life. When dinner was done, the darling mountain boy was waiting outside, we drunk wine, talked, and, flirted in the sub-zero valley below the restaurant. Buoyed by Kirsch, I suggested another ride. To cement my new-found nerve you understand. The poor, sweet boy pulled strings and was hesitantly handed back his keys, on the grounds that he was Very Well Behaved. The altitude, flirting, kirsch and wine made it invigorating rather than terrifying this time round. We veered along hairpin bends to my waiting car. But the dalliance was brief. For all his boyish alpine charm, he was sent back to his duties just as I was ushered into the waiting vehicle. St Moritz is the ideal destination for a romantic break. The calm beauty of the mountains, combined with exhilarating off-piste runs and abundance of luxe hotels make a dynamite combo. The resort is small enough to experience in a weekend, yet contains enough to entertain for a lifetime. If the cliché holds true, and She wants to chill in the spa whist He wants action and adventure, you couldn’t choose a better spot. Not as chocolate box twee as Verbier, St Moritz is postcard perfect in a different way. Lake St Moritz remains frozen through winter and couples dance and skate with wild abandon. January even sees the lake play host to The St. Moritz Polo World Cup on Snow so solid is the ice. With all it has to offer, a jaunt to St Moritz more than made up for the fearsome, blustery, wine-soaked flights, not to mention the flu, hangovers and considerable dent to the wallet. For more information and to book visit:


Lech, Austria Even an experienced skier can be surprised by the slopes, and as Samuel Smith finds out, Austria’s Lech is a hidden trove of alpine treasure As the last paunches of December’s decadence are shed, and the horrible threat of dry January is shrugged off we find ourselves faced once again with the long, fallow treads of winter months stretching in front of us. This miserable seasonal tenure would be completely unbearable if it weren’t for the prospect of escaping to the mountains for a spot of skiing and or snowboarding... However, as this once niche sport has widened out into one of the most popular mainstream holidays across the Western world, the challenge of finding new ski areas and staying ahead of the ever-growing crowds is increasingly at the forefront of ones mind when booking into a resort. Part of the pure pleasure of skiing (for the sake of brevity lets assume I always mean and/or boarding from here on out) comes from that inimitable feeling of complete freedom and openness, a feeling of lifefulfilling vigour and connectedness with the natural world usually only found by trekking for untold hours across uninhabitable terrains. Open scene on Lech - an old farming village set in a high valley that spent long periods of winter cut off from the outside world until the Flexen Pass road through Zürs was constructed at the end of the 19th century, before which the

local residents made their living from animal husbandry and dairy farming. In the midst of increasing commercialism, and ever growing demands to accommodate the swelling crowds of tourists, Lech has somehow managed to maintain its rootsy history - locals are as likely to be transporting down fresh milk from their family farms as ski guiding you around the mountains. The predominantly Germanic people and community – both as tourists and locals – treat visitors the same way the Dutch treat cyclists coming into their country, with a kind of knowing welcome as if you’re both in on a secret that no-one else knows, and it’s the best and most fantastic secret in the world. The real underlying factor is that everybody in Lech is there because they want to ski, and that is reflected in every part of the small villageturned-resorts make up. The ski areas of Lech and Oberlech are for the most part welcoming and forgiving. Made up almost solely of blue and red runs, they are well suited to mid-level skiers – wide, rolling, and open enough that they suit any style of skiing, though there are a few pisted blue runs that are much closer to red and should be avoided by newcomers and more nervous skiers.

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The next valley of Zurs is a lot more welcoming for learners; accessible by cable car and included in the standard ski pass, it offers a comfortable mix of quite wide road runs, and broader though equally as manageable pistes, there is enough there to keep a family of mixed abilities happy. Another big draw to the resort is the recent opening of The Auenfeldjet, a two-kilometre long lift starting at the upper station of the Weibermahd chairlift in Lech and crossing the Auenfeld pass to the Geissbühel Alpe, creating a link between Lech-Zürs and the resorts of Warth-Schröcken and adding another 64km of piste to the Lech-Zürs ski area. Tallying in the resorts of St Anton, St. Christoph and Stuben, the range of facilities is even larger: 94 lifts and cable-cars and 340 kilometres of piste. Whilst this doesn’t quite hold a flame to the 600km offered by Les Trois Vallées, the expanses proposed by Arlberg are just that – expanses – the local tourism board has fought hard to maintain the integrity of the area, even in the most busy periods Lech limits itself to only 40,000 passes per day which, given the huge skiing area available, really does make a difference. Lech is also home to one of the most exciting and

unique winter races. The White Ring covers 22 kilometres of pistes and a difference in altitude of 5,500 metres, and has taken place across the vast area of Arlberg in January of each year since 2006. The route is completely pisted and open to the more adventurous of punters to attempt at their leisure throughout the season. Fair warning should be given that the ring is a bit of a slog and involves a large amount of poling across flat ski areas, but for those who venture it, there are few things more rewarding than having trekked across multiple mountain ranges in one day. Although it doesn’t really need to be said a propos any mountain resort, the scenery is beyond astonishing. On a clear day you can look out from the mountaintops and see nothing but ice-capped peaks reflecting the frosted sun, puncturing the floating wisps of cirrus clouds. There are few things in the natural world as simultaneously threatening and beautiful as the mountains, and Arlberg summate all that the mountains speak. Those of a more leisurely persuasion are very well catered for in the areas many traditional alpine restaurants,

all of which sit on the ground floor of hotels. Oberlech is particularly delightful; completely pedestrianized in the winter months and made up of just a few hotels – one of which (Hotel Petersboden) is owned by former  World Cup  alpine ski racer  and  Olympic  gold medallist  Patrick Ortlieb - is as likely to serve you a particularly tasty Beef Carpaccio with a fruity local red wine as a huge steaming plate of Gröstl (a dish made up of bacon, onion and potato fried with local cheese) accompanied by a half litre of lager. Quite wonderfully, the locals really don’t stand on airs and graces; when one of our group asked a waitress for a skinny latte the answer was neither a yes or no, but a deep chuckle accompanied by a friendly pat on the shoulder and the offer of some more cream with their (delicious) Strudel. Eating a big, hot meal after a long day on the hill is one of the most gratifying parts of any ski holiday, and all the more so in Austria. As with all Germanic countries, vegetarians will struggle a little, but for everybody else the standard local fare of beef goulash is highly recommended, though to be honest as long as you’re not particularly fussy

you’ll be hard pressed to find a dish that isn’t both delicious and satisfying. Apropos après, things are a little calmer than what some may expect or hope from a ski resort - if you’re looking for yards of ale, toffee vodka shots and dancing on tables in ski boots you’ll need to slide further down the hill to St Anton. That said, there are a couple of fantastic drinking spots that locals, ski guides and tourists alike frequent once the ski day finishes up (around 3.30pm earlier in the season, 4.30pm around March onwards) – the Krone has a good outdoor bar that fills up quickly, and the Tannbergerhof  has dancing from the time the lifts close right through to the small hours, but generally it is more champagne and cocktail bars than pitchers of beer. There are several smart late night dance venues including the aforementioned, as well as  Fux and  Schneggarei’s, but most people in the resort tend to be in bed early. To be honest, if all the hotels were as homely, comfortable and welcoming as the Gotthard where we stayed, then there is every reason to spend as much time in bed as possible. The man-made topography of Lech is one of the most restrained you will find in an alpine resort – there are no buildings higher than six or seven storeys and all of them are constructed in the traditional seasoned spruce found in the mountains – the collective effect of which is one of familiarity, homeliness and comfort. Access to the resort is serviced by the rather wonderful Flughafen Friedrichshafen which is a little shy of 2 hours transfer from the resort. Monarch operate flights to Friedrichshafen from London Gatwick and Manchester starting from £35.27, though booking early is recommended. With a diverse ski area, welcoming hotels, incredible food and an enchanting local history, Lech is one of the most easily recommendable resorts in Austria and perhaps in Europe. I’d recommend visiting before this seemingly well kept public secret is discovered. fly direct to Friedrichschafen and are available from £73.26 return. Hotel Gotthard offers half board (recommended) from 186 Euro per night. Adult Ski passes for the region are 265 Euro for 7 days, and 159 for children.

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Mullins Beach

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A Place in the Sun With the luxury travel market at its strongest, investing in a holiday villa might seem like an unnecessary pursuit – after all, there’s no corner of the world that can’t pamper a weary tourist. But as Coco Khan finds out, investment isn’t just about bricks and mortar Before I had arrived in Barbados, I had already made up my mind about it. Convinced it was an island that though beautiful was now overrun with footballers and reality TV stars, I was ready to have my fill of sun and to leave, without a thought back. However, with a stay at Royal Westmoreland, that wouldn’t be so easy. The first thing to mention is that, if you haven’t yet been to Barbados, it is spectacularly beautiful. Its white sandy beaches and sparkling clear blue seas are impossible to get used to, and no amount of seeing it on postcards can help. Barbados itself is only 21miles tall and 14miles wide, and its range of natural qualities has made each square inch of the island a highly desired commodity. There’s the near perfect weather all year round (excluding a rainy week month or so), the friendly Bajan people whose laidback and welcoming attitude to the travel and tourism industry makes easy respite for the weary Brit, and of course the finest rum of all the seven seas. Unfortunately Rhianna doesn’t come as standard, but as the face of Barbados, she’ll be making an appearance or two.

For the luxury traveller, Barbados has a developed offering. Holetown’s newest shopping centre, Limegrove Lifestyle Centre, offers high end stores and pampering opportunities, while Holetown itself is packed full of late night cocktail bars and eateries. For those seeking a more adventurous, authentic edge, the cultural force of Bridgetown cannot be underestimated. Street food and steel drums lilting through the air - if you’ve never seen a bajan dancehall, you simply haven’t lived. For most of Barbados’ key attractions you’ll find a range of options catering for your holiday needs. So for example, if you want to swim with the legendary Barbados turtles (and you should), you can go out on a family boat geared up to small children and their parents; The Jolly Roger – a booze cruise style replica pirate ship complete with plank, ropeswing and Gangnam Style dance-offs; or you can take a spin on a Silvermoon Catamaran, an intimate experience for around 12 on a James Bond-style Sunseeker, complete with buffet, full bar, and handsome deck staff. Because you’re worth it.

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So in short, the island has plenty going for it – but what about the clientele? Barbados is famously a British-friendly island and forms part of the Commonwealth. Whilst it attracts tourists from far and wide, its key demographic is the UK market and at peak times of the year, in some parts of the island, it can feel a little bit like peak-season on a Spanish island - but if this is the kind of thing to put you off, there is a solution: Royal Westmoreland. Royal Westmoreland is a luxury holiday villa and apartments estate that boasts one of the islands best golf ranges. Bajans are big on golf, and even if you’re not, its spirit is infectious in the air. It’ll just be a matter of time before you’re swinging irons with the best of them and, with lessons from former pros available at the golf centre, golfing brilliance might be closer than you think. Royal Westmoreland has all the amenities and experiences available a luxury traveller might want. Though each villa is slightly different, most come with a private pool, en-suite

bedrooms, and many are self-catering, though there are alternative options. In fact, one such option is to have your own in-house chef which is of course what we’d plump for. You’ll find a spa, a number of restaurants, regular parties and events, a shuttlebus direct to the beautiful Mullins beach with a bar available for Royal Westmoreland clients. Indeed, you’ll be hard pressed to find any cause to leave the arms of the estate. The most impressive thing about Royal Westmoreland is the space. Even at full capacity, the estate is laid out in such a way that clients are unlikely to feel overrun. It’s a peaceful estate where the only sound are the green monkeys in the trees, and the leisurely whirr of golf buggies driving through. In the villa I am staying in, Colleen Rooney is my neighbour. Anywhere else, this would have sent me packing. Here, I know I’ll be well looked after, as will she, and anyone else staying in the estate. Royal Westmoreland also offers a number of villas out to buy, as well as building customized apartments and villas based on a client’s unique wants. There’s a number of different styles available based on the area of the property in the estate, so a cliff top style seaview house in Sugar Cane Ridge, or a more metropolitan city-flat in the Royal Apartments. It’s a large estate, and these areas are almost like little towns or villages in this wonderful county known as Royal Westmoreland. A client can be as hands on as they wish, or they can leave it to Royal Westmoreland to organise everything from concept to creation. Anyone owning a property on the estate is of course welcome to the full service that Royal Westmoreland provides and as such it’s a delicious offering for people looking to place roots down long term in a holiday home. Now, I am no property expert by any stretch, but it strikes me that buying a property on Royal Westmoreland

Ocean Drive

isn’t quite the same as buying an old farmhouse on the coast of France and doing it up. These are entirely new builds, and whilst they can be customised, they must keep similar appearance to its neighbouring buildings in order to uphold the aesthetic cleanliness of the estate as a whole. As such, you’re not going to see a huge rise in each building’s worth due its unique character or rustic charm, indeed, following my conversations with the UK Sales Manager, it’s likely you probably won’t see much rise in the building’s worth at all. However, the investment isn’t in the property, but Barbados as a whole. Barbados is a pillar in the world

16th Fairway View

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of travel and tourism, and as such there will always be hoards of travellers wanting to unwind amongst its beauty. As a small island, there’s not much space to go around so for holiday home owners, the rental market could provide a nice little earner. Did I mention Royal Westmoreland are also able to take care of renting out the property for certain new-build owners? What else is there to worry about? For more information on booking or building, visit or email


How to reach a financial agreement when you split up or divorce There are number of different approaches that can be taken in relation to dividing the finances upon separation and divorce. Each case is different and not all options will be appropriate in all cases. Since 22 April 2014, it is a requirement that a separating couple attends a MIAM (Mediation Information Assessment Meeting) with a mediator before issuing proceedings at court, to determine whether the case is suitable for mediation. The government hopes that compulsory MIAMs will prove to be an effective cost cutting measure for the court system. It is important to understand, while in most cases attending MIAM is compulsory, the mediation itself is not. • Negotiations between the parties directly – if the parties are able to reach an agreement between themselves, a Consent Order can be prepared and filed at Court, recording the agreement and the court would be asked to approve the order. This is to prevent either party attempting to go back on the terms of the order at some point in the future. It is very difficult to challenge the terms of an approved order in the future, unless there are exceptional circumstances. This option is only possible if both parties have a clear picture of the matrimonial finances and it is advisable in every case to have a full and frank exchange of financial disclosure before entering in to any agreement.   • Negotiations between solicitors – parties exchange disclosure on a voluntary basis, i.e. without the Court

ordering it, with a view to negotiating an early settlement, outside of the court arena. This option is suitable when both parties are open to reaching a fair settlement and are prepared to make reasonable concessions. If one party is unwilling to negotiate or provide financial disclosure, this is usually apparent from an early stage and financial remedy proceedings can be issued. • Litigation – the financial remedy procedure is a three stage Court process: 1. First Appointment - This is a short attendance required at Court to decide how the case should proceed and on what timetable. Directions are given about the valuations of assets, where necessary, and when questionnaires should be answered and any further directions required to help further the proceedings before the Financial Dispute Resolution hearing. 2. Financial Dispute Resolution (FDR) - This is held at Court on a without prejudice basis, to try negotiate settlement.  The Judge listens to both parties’ point of view as to how the case should be settled and the Judge will then give his/ her own view on how a settlement should be reached and encourage the parties to settle.  The majority of cases settle at this point.

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3. Final Hearing - If the parties cannot reach an agreement at the FDR or thereafter, the case proceeds to a Final Hearing. Both parties will be cross examined and the Judge will then decide what order they think is appropriate and the parties will have that order imposed upon them. Very few cases reach this stage of the proceedings. It is very important, at every stage of dealing with a divorce, that consideration is given to seeing whether the finances can be settled by agreement without incurring significant legal fees. Early advice is essential.   Gavin Scott is a Partner (and mediator) at Stowe Family Law, 8 Fulwood Place, Gray’s Inn, London WC1V 6HG.  If you have questions regarding Divorce, or any aspect of Family Law, please email All enquiries will be treated as strictly private and confidential.   Further information and articles on various aspects of Family Law and the Firm can also be found on our Blog at We hold a free legal advice clinic (30 minute appointments) on a daily basis between 12pm and 2pm and on a Monday evening between 5pm and 7pm. Please call to make an appointment on 020 7421 3300. Words: Gavin Scott, Partner, Stowe Family Law


Stop the Cellulite! Health and Beauty expert Daniela Rulinski has the answer to cellulite – and you won’t need to travel much further than Notting Hill to find it. Stop the cellulite, and lose weight with Lipomassage. colloquially as ‘orange peel’. About 90% of women (of all ages) are affected by the condition. The buttocks and thighs are the most common sites.

EXPECTATIONS The sensation of the Lipomassage is very pleasant and is similar to a deep tissue massage. Most clients even fall asleep in their treatment and report back as feeling relaxed and energised. Each treatment lasts for 35min with specific manoeuvres tailored to treat different cellulite types. Every client requires a course of 14-20 sessions (depending on the severity of the cellulite). Twice per week is optimal (leaving 48 hours between the treatments). In certain cases three times per week are advisable. Once the client completes the course, once-a-month maintenance treatment is recommended. Cellulite is a term used to describe deposits of fat and other materials trapped in pockets of connective tissue beneath the skin. It causes dimpling on the skin, also known

For more information contact Daniela Rulinski, c/o Mark Anthony Gym, 57 Ossington Street, Notting Hill, W2 4LY, 020 7221 8625,

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Factors responsible for cellulite: •Poor lifestyle: Lack of exercise, excess consumption of saturated fat and sugar, poor hydration). •Hormones: Hormonal changes at puberty and menopause as well as intake of hormonal contraceptives. •Gender: Lipomassage by LPG is very effective for men and women who would like to get rid of the stubborn fat that won’t go with exercise and diet. Lipomassage by LPG treats all type of cellulite but also: •pre and post liposuction •sculpting the body (love handles, stomach paunches, arms, legs, tights) •recovery after pregnancy •stimulates the lymph and the blood circulation •water retention • treats muscles pain


A Tiny Sip of the Elixir of Life Sustained health and beauty is a holistic endeavour. As Sid Raghava found out, this is the overbearing mantra of renowned dermatologist Nara Simonyan, founder of the eponymous Nara Health and Beauty. Nestled in a capacious space on the corner of New Kings Road and Harwood Road in SW6, the salon uses state of the art technology and employs unique treatments that have emanated from Nara’s background in dermatology. Her belief in a comprehensive approach to wellbeing and beauty finished off with a sprinkling of beauty secrets that have made Nara extremely popular with her clientele all across London and quite a few other rather salubrious parts of the world. We spoke to her recently and came across a person who is a spritely businesswoman who knows her art well and seeks to expand her empire beyond the realms of west London and the indeed the Big Smoke altogether indeed. Nara’s commendable journey began in Acton where she started off in 2009 all by herself along with a couple

of therapists that she’d personally trained in her exclusive high-end treatments. A single mother of ArmenianGeorgian ancestry, she quickly gained the trust and confidence of patrons who experienced a definite edge to following Nara’s holistic philosophy. The favourable results of Nara’s beauty regime kept them coming back. The little establishment moved to a huge space in Churchfield Road, W3, which was interestingly in an abandoned pub, and Nara has never looked back ever since. A salon in Monte Carlo is due to open next year in keeping with her growing clientele, a move that had been enthused upon her by a bevy of fans in Monaco who make regular trips to her salons in London. State of the art treatments at the salon vary from Intraceuticals Oxygen Anti-Aging Facial Treatment, a

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firm favourite with Hollywood stars, to 3D Lipo and the more ubiquitous IPL Hair Removal and Electrolysis. Her intelligent, nursing level therapists are caring, passionate, knowledgeable and experienced. It is very important that Nara handpicks them in line with the high standards that she seeks to maintain. When asked about her holistic philosophy, she quips ‘you don’t just go the gym and expect results within a single week, let alone a day’. It is a constant process as she rightly points out and the raison d’etre of her art is to make sure that people keep healthy and beautiful through her simple therapeutic regime and avoid plastic surgery for as long as possible - if not forever. Nara waves her magic beauty wand at: 3&4 New Kings Road, SW6 4AA Tel: 020 7371 8939

Beauty Treatments for Women and Men

Fantastic treatments at competitive prices Treatments available include Environ facials, CACI treatments, Botox and Dermal fillers, manicure and pedicures and more

NEW CHELSEA BRANCH NOW OPEN 3-4 New King’s Road, Chelsea, London SW6 4AA Telephone: 020 7371 8939 Monday – Saturday 10am-7pm

Sunday 11am-6pm

24 hours cancellation policy

Established in 1946 Frank Dale & Stepsons are the world’s oldest independent Rolls-Royce and Bentley specialists. With up to fifty vintage, classic and modern cars for sale at any one time, we can cater for almost every requirement, offering trustworthy advice with regards to investment potential and the market in general. Alongside our showroom is our 6,000 square foot workshop manned by highly experienced Rolls-Royce trained engineers. Maintenance, restoration and general servicing is all carried out on site for our customers at very competitive rates. Complimentary collection, delivery and valeting all comes as part of our service. Whether you are looking to acquire the car of your dreams, considering investing in a classic Rolls-Royce or Bentley, or simply need to arrange a service for your motor car, Frank Dale & Stepsons can assist with all of your needs. If you would like to arrange a visit to our facility or to discuss your particular requirements we would be delighted to hear from you.

S a l e s S e r v i c e T r i m m i n g R e s t or at i on 125 Harlequin Avenue, Great West Road, London TW8 9EW, UK

Tel: 020 8847 5447 Fax: 020 8560 5748 www.: Email:

French office: Christian Teissier, 8 Avenue J.Bordeneuve, 47300 Villeneuve-Sur-Lot, Bordeaux France Tel: 0033 55 340 3470 Fax: 0033 55 340 3481 Japanese Office: Mr Kiyoharu Wakui, Kuruma Doraku 2-10-11, Yayoi Bunkyo Ku, Tokyo, Japan Tel: 0081 33 81 16 170 Fax: 0081 33 81 66 175

1961 Bentley S2 Continental Coupe by H.J.Mulliner

1956 Bentley S1 Continental Coupe by Park Ward

1954 Rolls-Royce Silver Dawn Standard Steel Saloon

1950 Bentley Mk VI Sports Saloon by Park Ward

1958 Bentley S1 Continental Four Light Flying Spur by H.J.Mulliner 1964 Bentley S3 Continental Six Light Flying Spur by H.J.Mulliner 1938 Bentley 4 Âź Litre Sedanca Coupe by Gurney Nutting

We offer the finest facilities for the sale and service of Rolls-Royce & Bentley Motor cars For further information and complete stocklist please telephone or email us at the addresses below S A L E S




1931 Rolls-Royce Phantom II Continental Park Ward Style Three Position Drophead Coupe




125 Harlequin Avenue, Great West Road, London TW8 9EW, UK Tel: 020 8847 5447 Fax: 020 8560 5748 www.: Email: French office: Christian Teissier, 8 Avenue J.Bordeneuve, 47300 Villeneuve-Sur-Lot, Bordeaux France Tel: 0033 55 340 3470 Fax: 0033 55 340 3481 Japanese Office: Mr Kiyoharu Wakui, Kuruma Doraku 2-10-11, Yayoi Bunkyo Ku, Tokyo, Japan Tel: 0081 33 81 16 170 Fax: 0081 33 81 66 175


One 4 The Road Adrian Foster yearns for the new BMW 4 Series Coupé A new BMW series comes along about as often as a new Rolling Stones album, so replacing the much-loved BMW 3-series Coupé (the 3 Series designation now applies only to the saloon version), the 4 Series has some big wheels to fill. Happily, it seems well up to that task. On first acquaintance the 4 seems a better drive than its predecessor thanks to improved steering, more responsive suspension and a lower center of gravity. The 4 justifies the new name by moving visually away from the 3. It was always lower and squatter, but now it’s also slightly wider than a 3 Series (and a lot wider than the old one), not just in the body panels but the track. Visual tricks add to the effect: the ‘glass house’ tapers toward the rear - it’s just a four-seater - so the rear wings look broader. The channel along the side of the body at door handle height becomes shallower as it fades into the wing, as if the wheels are bursting out through the body.

Styling You’re making a style statement when buying a Coupé, so first impressions clearly count. Fortunately, the 4 Series hits the spot. While the relationship to the 3 Series is obvious, the bonnet is the only thing the two cars share on the outside and the 4 Series really stands out with its swept-back lights and flowing proportions. The newcomer is longer, lower and wider than the 3 Series Coupé it replaces and the rear wheel arches

are the widest point of the car, which only adds to its athletic appearance. SE models come equipped with 17-inch wheels, xenon lights and black vents in the famous BMW kidney grille. Our test model came with the £425 optional 18-inch wheels and £645 metallic paint, while buyers can spend an extra £3,000 to upgrade to the M Sport model, which is marked out by more aggressive bumpers, side skirts and detailing.

Driving As it sits 10mm lower than a 3 Series saloon, the 4 Series has the lowest centre of gravity of any model in the current

“Replacing the muchloved BMW 3-series Coupé, the 4 Series has some big wheels to fill. Happily, it seems well up to that task” page. 50

BMW range. Add a wider rear track, plus springs and dampers that have been tuned specially for the Coupé, then it’s no surprise that the new car feels even more engaging from behind the wheel than the 3 Series saloon. Sharp, fast and accurate steering is matched to a lovely rear-wheeldrive handling balance, while there’s plenty of feedback, too. A little bit of body movement is noticeable, but aside from a slightly rigid ride at low speeds – on account of the run-flat tyres – the BMW is smooth enough.

Engines The 420d is powered by the same 181bhp, 2.0-litre turbodiesel as the 320d. It makes peak power at 4000rpm and hits 280lb ft between 1750-2750rpm. BMW claims a 7.5sec 0-62mph time and a top speed of 149mph. Pick of the engines, however, has to be the six-cylinder 3.0-litre, which is a genuine performance car, with a lovely mix of get-upand-go in the middle of the rev range and a sparkly high end up to 7,000rpm, although it’s best not to think about what the fuel consumption is up there. On The Road Price From £29,200 For information visit:

BATTERSEA PARK LONDON 13 – 16 March 2014 Contemporary art £40 – £4,000

Fair sponsor:

Busaba Eathai

Offering a range of tasty and authentic Thai curries, noodles, salads and stir-fries, along with Asian inspired juices and a carefully curated wine list. 358 King’s Road, SW3 5UZ

The Escape Issue  

In Pursuit of Distraction; Reviving imagination with Samuel Beckett, English National Opera and the slopes of St Moritz

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