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kerry oda


Hanalei Bay / kerry Oda

c o n t e n t s October / November / December 2013

30 publisher


12 Something for everyone


gift ideas from kauai

hanalei valley / H&S photo

H&S Publishing, LLC Robert M. Self advertising sales

Doug O’Keeffe 808 639-2377 information systems

Tylar Self distribution

H&S Publishing KAUAI MAGAZINE E s ta b l i s h e d 1 9 8 0 Kauai Magazine is published by H&S Publishing LLC. Copyright ©

16 flying in paradise

2013 All rights reserved. No part

22 my hawaiian experience

duced without written consent

discovering Kauai’s hidden wonders from above.

of this publication may be repro-

Fluerings by Samantha Lockwood

of the publisher. Publisher is not

AirVentures air tours

responsible for any liability associ-

24 hanalei to kee beach

ated with any product or service

like taking a step back in time

28 splashing in paradise

Kauai’s countless ocean and river experiences.

34 hawaiian monk seal

mystique of the endangered monk seal

38 touring in paradise

experiencing paradise by wheel, hoof, or foot.

44 kauai map

advertiser locator map


Kauai Magazine

October / November / December 2013

offered by advertisers. All editorial information is deemed reliable but not guaranteed. Editorial, advertising and business offices are located at 4330 Kauai Beach Drive, Suite G21, Lihue, HI 96766. Telephone: (808) 212-5333, “Printed using recycled paper and environmentally sensitive ink.”

10 Kauai Magazine

October / November / December 2013


Something f Something for Everyone 1.01 ct. yellow diamond center stone 1.01 ct. yellow diamond center stonesurrounded by pink and white diamonds in 18k 2tone gold, made by First Image Design Co. Price is $12,000.00 Grande's Gems Hawaii

Double wave pendant

sterling silver with blue topaz gemstone. This pendant is made on Maui by Cici Maui Designs and is $270.00 by itself and $310.00 with 16''-18'' adjustable sterling silver chain. Grande's Gems Hawaii

Harley-davidson kauai t-shirts

Wide variety of custom printed Harley-Davidson t-shirts, Prices starting at: $30 Other gift items include HD shot glasses, caps, bumper stickers, license plate frames, and more! Kauai Harley-Davidson

Something fo FANTASTIC DELICIOUS HEALTH BASKET Can't decide what to get that special someone? Let Papaya's create a one of a kind gift basket filled with endless options of your choice. Delivery & Shipping options available. (808) 823-0190 $95.00

Something for Everyone Papaya's Natural Foods & CafĂŠ

12 Kauai Magazine

October / November / December 2013




Something for Everyone Fleurings

Bring home a piece of the Garden Island with Fleurings jewelry! These little vase necklaces, earrings and hair accessories hold water to keep flowers fresh. Match an orchid to your outfit! Prices range from $55 to $95. Shop

Realistic Turtle

Tropic Bird

Inspired by Kauai's natural beauty, a tropic bird is sculpted into a sterling silver pendant accented with a natural color cultured Tahitian pearl. Goldsmith's Kauai


You may encounter a turtle while snorkeling on a Kauai reef. Capture that memory forever with our "Honu" crafted into a sparkling 14-karat yellow gold pendant. Goldsmith's Kauai

Barbara Eberhart Clutch Bag

Custom printed 100% cotton canvas clutch bag that doubles as an iPad case. Perfect for beach days or sunset cocktails. Made in Hawaii. Price: $79

orSomethingveryone for Everyone Accessories for the Home

Colorful accessories for the holidays for under $100 Otsuka's

Cane Field Clothing & Gallery

October / November / December 2013

Kauai Magazine 13

fun in the air

Flying In Paradise Discovering Kauai’s Hidden Wonders from Above One of the main reasons visitors choose Kauai as their vacation destination is the island’s incomparable natural beauty.

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Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Visitors to the Garden Isle naturally want to absorb as much of paradise as possible. Those who arrive on Kauai by jetliner get just a glimpse of




gorgeous landscapes. However, to view the gushing waterfalls and emerald rainforest of the remote interior requires a smaller form of transportation that provides a closer

Kalalau Valley

perspective. A trip to the Garden Island is not complete without some form of an airborne adventure -- one of the three experiences of Kauai’s air-land-sea activity trifecta.

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Kauai Magazine 17

Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Waialeale Crater Kauai is blessed with wild, untouched natural beauty unlike anywhere else on earth, much completely inaccessible except by air. Ninety percent of the island is not accessible by land vehicle, and 70 percent is inaccessible by foot. Flying tours provide panoramic views of the island’s visual treasures, among them, Manawaiopuna Falls, a location for Jurassic Park, the countless cascading falls of Waialeale Crater, and the famous Napali coast, with its verdant, razor-thin cliffs. A trip around the island by air helps visitors understand the geography and decide which sides of the island they want to explore further. From the air, a passenger observes that Kauai is a mini-continent with micro-climates ranging from desert on the West Side, to the primeval Alakai Swamp above the emerald Napali cliffs, to the Waimea “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” one of Kauai’s natural wonders.


You can embark on one of these exciting flightseeing excursions in a number of ways. Helicopter tours are the most common method with most companies departing from Lihue (Central) . Others depart from Hanapepe (West Side), , and Princeville (North Shore). Some helicopter tour companies provide noise-canceling headphones with music piped in and narration from the pilot.

Flights from the Lihue Airport typically start out over Nawiliwili Harbor and the Menehune Fish Pond. According to legend, the pond was built overnight by the Menehune (little people) who inhabited Kauai before the Polynesians arrived. The helicopters then pass along Haupu Mountain Range, heading inland and westward over Hanapepe Valley, Olokele, and the dramatic Waimea Canyon. One company offers a special Jurassic Falls Landing Adventure at Manawaiopuna Falls, seen in the movie Jurassic Park. Depending on the time of day, the intensity of the sun, and the presence of clouds casting shadows, the variegated colors in the canyon’s layers range from fiery orange and rust red, to glowing copper and bronze, to pastel hues of taupe and terra cotta. The incredible remote valleys of the Napali coast come into view next. Knife-edge ridges separate the lush valleys where the Kalalau, Hanakoa, and Hanakapiai waterfalls plunge hundreds of feet into streams on their way to kissing the ocean. Sea caves and a hanging valley have been carved out of the coastline by the incessant, pounding surf. Leaving Napali, the chopper passes Mt. Makana, the peak portrayed as the island Bali Hai in the movie South Pacific. Below you can see Kee Beach at the end of the road on the North Shore and the beginning of the eleven-mile hiking trail to Kalalau Valley. Kee Beach is also the site of well-known beach scene between Rachel Ward and Richard Chamberlain from the television miniseries the Thorn Birds. The helicopter next soars over Hanalei Valley, the home of rainbows and patchwork quilts of taro fields, passing by more continued on page 20

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Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Nualolo and Awaawapuhi Valleys continued from page 18 sparkling waterfalls on its way to the center of the island. In the center of Kauai, Mt. Waialeale -- known as “the wettest spot on earth” with over 400 inches of rain annually -- is also the location of Kawaikini Peak, 5,243 feet above sea level and the highest elevation on Kauai. From above, you can spot the “Blue Hole,” actually a pool, at the base of Mt. Waialeale, and the result of the convergence of two streams and a waterfall. Flights departing from Princeville soar over the Hanalei Valley, the Napali Coast, and Waimea Canyon. One helicopter company provides tours of the “forbidden” island of Niihau, a private island off the west shores of Kauai (and ancestral home of Hawaiian musician Israel “Iz” Kamakawiwo’ole, known for his medley of “Over the Rainbow” and “What a Wonderful World”). Helicopter tours are operated on a weather-permitting basis and reservations should be made in advance. Some companies will arrange custom tours or photo charters to specific sites. Partly cloudy skies with a little rain shouldn’t keep visitors from taking a flight. A veil of mist behind a pali (cliff) accentuates its razorsharp edge and, as everyone knows, sun and showers are the ingredients for Kauai’s world-famous rainbows (and sometimes double rainbows).

fixed-wing airplanes

A slower, more relaxed adventure by air is via a small, fixed-wing airplane or an open cockpit biplane. Fixed-wing air tours are 45 minutes to one hour long and cover the entire island of Kauai. Also available are private charter biplanes, departing from Lihue, which allow customized flights. These planes are built to emulate aircraft from the 1930s and 20 Kauai Magazine

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1940s, but with modern modifications for safety and comfort. Standard, pre-designed sightseeing flights of the island from 30 minutes to one hour long are also available.


For those who have dreamed of being able to fly, the Ultralight “Trike” – an open-air two-person engine-powered hang glider -- emulates the experience. The Ultralight is as close to real flying (as in, “I’m a bird!”) as you may ever experience. Combine the thrill of this open-air, wind-in-your-hair ride with Kauai’s spectacular scenery and you have an experience better than any dream. The craft is stable, considered to be safer than hang-gliding, features the latest digital instrumentation and global positioning systems, and is engine-powered. The Ultralight takes off and lands on regular runways and has parachutes onboard for safety. If you’ve seen the movie Fly Away Home, the contraption that Jeff Daniels flies to lead a flock of orphaned Canadian geese home (though not on Kauai) is an Ultralight. For incredible images of Kauai taken from the vantage point of an Ultralight, check out the video, Extreme Kauai, available at One of the main reasons visitors choose Kauai as their vacation destination is the island’s incomparable natural beauty. x

Having traveled to the middle of the Pacific Ocean to find Kauai, experiencing the Garden Island from above can be the literal highlight of a dream Hawaii vacation.

My Kauai Experience

What are Fleurings? Fleurings is a line of mini vase jewelry that holds water and keeps flowers fresh. How did you come up with this ‘mini vase’ idea? My grandmother told me to ‘wear flowers in my hair’ back when I was a waitress just graduating from college. I tried it one day and found that by wearing a real fresh flower I was indeed wearing a conversation piece. It created more customer interaction which resulted in bigger tips for me! I wanted to figure out a way to keep flowers lasting longer ( for a whole work shift) so I created a mini vase earring that would hold water and a fresh flower... hence the name of the line “Fleur” which means “flower” in french + “earrings” = Fleurings. How long have you been working on “Fleurings”? I brought the idea to life with a working prototype in 2009, but didn’t really start manufacturing until 2011. Where have you sold your jewelry so far? I first began by selling to friends, then I created a website and began selling online. Soon, some boutiques in LA and Japan picked it up and it is now starting to sell in Hawaii and especially the island of Kauai where I spend summers with my family.

Samantha Lockwood Tell us more about you... where are you from? Well, I’m an actress and also a certified Bikram Yoga Teacher. I am from Malibu and La Quinta, CA. My mom has always vacationed in Hawaii but now she bought a home and organic farm on Kauai and it feels as much like home as Los Angeles. I love it here. I love the laid back lifestyle and the people. How do you see the future of Fleurings? First off, I see it reaching more islands in Hawaii. I spent a lot of time doing shows this summer on Kauai and this winter I plan to do more shows on Oahu. I’m starting very ‘grassroots’. I see

My Kauai Experience

AirVentures Maybe you've lived on planet earth for a while and forgotten about all the wonderful things we have to share with one another here. Recently that happened to me. Incredibly, I've been on Kauai for a year and a half and I forgot about some of those most wonderful things. It's nice to remember. What helped me remember was leaving my feet completely and soaring above it all like the albatross I've marvelled at from the ground. On a recent Sunday morning I flew in a single engine plane above this amazing island of Kauai with a company called Airventures. What an incredible treat it was. The flight was at 10:00 am so I made my way to the airport for checkin a half hour early. Nicole greeted us at the AirVentures desk and made sure we were each light enough not to weigh the plane down. We met the pilot, Harry, who somehow knew all our names. I could assume Nicole passed the information on to him in advance but he may well be clairvoyant. After introductions, we were escorted across the tarmac to the aircraft, seated comfortably with instructions from both Nicole and Harry and given comfortable headsets. We taxied down the runway only five minutes later. The air traffic communication we were privy to from the tower was precise yet infused with the uniquely relaxed Kauai island way. Take off was swift and smooth and it was just moments later that we were floating high above roiling waves of the east side beaches. We soon banked inland and flew over lush green forested hillsides to the jungle encircling the gorgeous Wailua falls. One nice thing about knowing a place before you see it again from a new perspective, is that you see it anew, it's with all the original and eternal beauty. You get to appreciate the first amazing impression all over again. 22 Kauai Magazine

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Fleurings being successful in tropical, beach and gardening communities around the world. My plan is to go where I feel Fleurings would be a good fit. The line is perfect for the bridal market as a bridesmaid accessory or gift. Many of my customers will buy several as bridesmaids or wedding gifts to match Fleurings to the bouquets. Prom, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day... really any occasion where flowers are given Fleurings is a good fit. I also think they would be great for people in hospitality to wear, like Hotel Staff. What a nice greeting to wear a fresh flower when people walk in the door! Give us some recent news about Fleurings? Most recently, Bethany Hamilton and all 13 of her Bridesmaids wore Fleurings in her wedding. Earlier this year Teen Prom, Seattle Times Magazine and Good Morning America (in the tri-state area) featured the line. In 2011 Honolulu Star Advertiser and Hana Ho Magazine showcased Fleurings with many thanks to Riches Boutique in Honolulu. Fleurings also made the covers of Swoop Magazine and La Quinta Life Magazine as well as several Japanese Publications.

Are there celebrities wearing fluerings? Jennifer Love Hewitt wore our small gold polished necklace at the MTV Music Awards last year and Crystal Bowersox wore them on American Idol when she was in the Top 3. Seth Rogen and his new wife Lauren Miller also ordered several pieces as Bridal Gifts for their wedding. Keely Brosnan is a proud Fleurings owner as well. A little more about Samantha: Most recently, she did a music video with country star JT Hodges titled Goodbyes Made You Mine and she said, “I get to wear my jewelry!” She also had a movie on Showtime called Shoot the Hero!, where she played the leading lady opposite Jason Mewes. She’s been around Hollywood all her life, her dad was also an actor, Gary Lockwood, who did the famous sci-fi film 2001: A Space Odyssey for Stanley Kubrick. She says, “Although I love movies and storytelling there is something equally as satisfying living a simple life and selling my unique jewelry line. I love flowers and nature, so I find spending time in the islands is the perfect fit for me and for Fleurings.” v

We flew further inland toward the steep ridges leading up Kawaikini and Mt. Waialeale. We were right beside the incredible mountains observing clouds blow up over the cliff faces. Off in the distance the blue ocean beyond Hanalei Bay on the north side could already be seen. We could see the trails cresting the ridges below us as we cut across the tops of mountains. Soaring into Hanalei was amazing. We had a wonderfully clear view of the sandy crescent beach. We then circled the reefs and cliffs by Kilauea before cresting the mountains again on our way out over Haena and 'Tunnels' beaches. We could actually see the features of the sea floor and the depth changes in the ocean. It was moments later we caught our first glimpse of the magnificent Napali coastline. The cathedral-like sculpted valleys and rock formations were visions of some of nature's most monumental creations both in scope and aesthetic perfection. Serene beaches lay at the feet of those dramatic cliffs as the transition between water and earth were sometimes connected to one another by massive rock archways. We circled for many passes and far below us watercraft ranging from kayaks to catamarans glided across the blue water. We then turned east again and were almost immediately treated to even more beauty as we glided above the magnificent carved walls of Waimea Canyon. We passed over the equally incredible Kokee State Park and Forest Reserve before soaring over to the westside and down to the beaches of Poipu, where big ocean swells broke over the massive cliffs next to Shipwrecks beach. In only an hour we'd flown over a dozen beautiful beaches, half a dozen waterfalls, deep canyons, breathtaking cliffs, rolling waves, barrier reefs, and sailed next to clouds blowing over mountain ridges. We felt the wind and the rain and witnessed the sun creating rainbows. It was something great. Just like the lyrics from one of the beautiful songs we heard over the headset, it was a journey beyond the mind into the heart. —Doug O’Keeffe

Hanalei to Kee Na Pali Coast

The uninhabited cliffs and valleys of the world-famous

majestic Na Pali Coast are the focal point of Kauai’s scenic North Shore. Beautiful, curving crescents of sand, towering, misty mountains, and rivers winding through expanses of green, fertile land present a perfect portrait of paradise. The North Shore receives more rain than other accessible parts of the island, which gives this area its lush, almost prehistoric jungle appearance. Exploring the rural communities of Hanalei, Wainiha, and Haena is like taking a step back in time. In contrast, the luxurious Princeville Resort and environs welcome you back to the upscale present. 24 Kauai Magazine

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H&S Archives photo

Kee Reef and Beach

Photos: Kerry oda fine art photography /


Hanalei Valley The scenic lookout above the Hanalei National Wildlife Sanctuary (across the highway from the Princeville Shopping Center) is the gateway to the heart of the North Shore and a visual feast of 140 acres of taro fields. This geometric expanse of taro and other fields at the entrance to Hanalei is a patchwork of deep green, bright chartreuse, and chocolate brown, and is the most tangible direct link to native Hawaiian life from the past. The view is so stunning, it can transport you back thousands of years. Oral family histories and archaeological research and artifacts indicate that by 1000 A.D., native Hawaiian families were living in the valleys of Na Pali, cultivating taro and other food crops. They raised and hunted animals for food, cultivated and gathered plants for fiber and medicine, and raised fish in ponds. Many of today’s kupuna (elders) can trace their families back to those who lived in these valleys. Still strongly tied to the old places and the old ways, they hope to preserve and perpetuate the indigenous lifestyle on the North Shore. A grass shack found in Milolii Valley has been reconstructed and preserved in the Bishop Museum in Honolulu as an example of fine craftsmanship and skilled use of island-available materials. As idyllic as it may sound, that subsistence way of life in those remote valleys has died out. Most are content with camping for a few days in the verdant Kalalau Valley. Permits are necessary and getting into these areas requires either a strenuous hike (carrying everything you need in and back out) or a prearranged boat or helicopter trip to drop you off and pick you up. The walk to the Kalalau Valley from the Kee Beach trailhead is 22 miles round trip. Taro was the staple food of early Hawaiians for many generations, but today eating rice, bread, and potatoes (especially in urban areas) is easier and cheaper. Recently, however, some grandparents, parents, and children have attempted to reestablish that link to the past by standing together for many hours in the mud of the fields, bent over to plant, weed, and harvest taro. Over 60% of the state’s total taro production is grown on Kauai, much of it on the North Shore. Taro farming is not the only aspect of the Hawaiian lifestyle that lives on, however. Walk into a restaurant, a supermarket, or ask a question at a hotel or vacation rental, and you will often find yourself in a conversation with someone who treats you like a long-lost friend or relative. “Talking story” is a big part of the “Aloha Spirit.” Following the road down from the National Wildlife Sanctuary overlook into Hanalei Valley, you encounter the first in a series of picturesque one-lane bridges. The town of Hanalei, just beyond the first bridge, sports charming little shops, galleries, and restaurants. The North Shore is home to many artists. Buildings in the Wai ‘Oli Mission District date back to the 1820’s. Hanalei Bay, which October / November / December 2013

Kauai Magazine 25

once served as a harbor for whaling and trading vessels, is one of the most beautiful spots on earth and is very popular with both visitors and “locals.” Continuing along the coastline, many stunning beaches await: Lumahai, where Mitzi Gaynor washed that man right out of her hair in South Pacific; Makua, or Tunnels Beach, a favorite surf and snorkeling spot; and the unbelievably beautiful Kee Beach at the end of the road with the deep green Na Pali cliffs rising skyward in the background. Hollywood has used much of Hanalei to Kee Beach as its back lot. In addition to South Pacific, television and film features made here include Jurassic Park, Uncommon Valor, King Kong, Body Heat, The Thorn Birds, Lord of the Flies, Throw Mamma from the Train, The Wackiest Ship in the Army, Pagan Love Song, and others. Sightseers can get a glimpse of the unrivaled beauty of the North Shore’s coastline by kayaking, taking a boat tour, by helicopter flight, or airplane tour. The crews provide narration about the history of the area. When sightseeing the Na Pali Coast by water, you can choose catamaran cruises or rigid-hulled inflatables (sometimes called Zodiacs). The tours may include snorkeling, lunch, sunset-

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watching, or, in winter, whale watching. Whichever mode you choose, the experience is sure to be one you will never forget. The physical beauty of the North Shore has a dramatic impact on all who are lucky enough to experience it. Sun and rain yield luxuriant vegetation, from the tops of jagged mountains to rolling pastureland and plateaus. Clouds blown against the mountain ridges release their moisture into waterfalls gushing and tumbling hundreds of feet into rivers and streams, and ultimately into the glorious blue Pacific. The beaches are postcard perfect and have been an inspiration to many a songwriter, poet, and artist. Filmmakers, painters, and photographers have fallen under the spell of the North Shore, and you will, too. At the end of the road, cliffs overlook Kee Beach, and the water is so clear you can see fish, sea turtles, and coral from yards away. The North Shore of Kauai holds tight to its Hawaiian history and heritage. Its little communities and families treasure the quaint and quiet lifestyle, yet there is enough room to coexist with modern luxury resorts. The magnificent mountains and ever-changing sea overcome all differences on the North Shore, Kauai’s island on an island.

fun in the water

Splashing in Paradise Kauai's countless ocean and river experiences A trip to the Garden Island is not complete without some time spent in, on, or under the water. The Pacific Ocean’s turquoise waters surrounding the island and Kauai’s sparkling clear inland streams and rivers beckon whale watchers, anglers, boaters, divers, surfers, and other water sport lovers. The dilemma may be what

Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

to dive into first.

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A trip to the Garden Island is not complete without some time spent in, on, or under the water. The Pacific Ocean’s turquoise waters surrounding the island and Kauai’s sparkling clear inland streams and rivers beckon whale watchers, anglers, boaters, divers, surfers, and other water sport lovers. The dilemma may be what to dive into first.

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Kauai Magazine 29

Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Hawaiian green sea turtle.

Paddle boarding the Hanalei River.

whale-watching cruises A whale-watching ocean tour is an intimate way to experience the awesome Humpback Whale and enjoy the variety of Kauai’s beautiful landscapes from an off-island perspective. Every fall, Humpback Whales leave their Alaskan feeding grounds to journey to the waters of the Hawaiian Islands to sojourn for the winter, mate, birth, and nurse their young. (Whales think that Hawaii is romantic, too!) Whalewatching cruises give you an up-close and personal encounter with these magnificent mammals from about November to March, when Humpbacks are most prevalent. You can choose to whale-watch from aboard catamarans, zippy rubber zodiac rafts, cruise vessels, and sail boats. Some tour companies offer dual-powered (motorized and sailing) catamarans for snorkeling, whale watching, and sunset cruises. Some provide the more extreme rigid-hull zodiac inflatables. Be sure to bring a camera. A waterproof disposable camera is a good idea, as well as a towel and an extra set of dry clothes, because you will get wet. Binoculars will help with closer observation of whale activity. For best viewing with binoculars, use 8x40 or 7x50 magnification. If you don’t have sea legs, consider taking nonprescription or homeopathic motion sickness prevention medication before getting on any ocean craft. Hawaii winter wave swells can be immense and the sea ride can get quite bouncy. Whales abound in the waters all around Kauai, putting on a show with playful behavior such as fin slapping, lobtailing (slapping the tail fluke), and breaching (jumping out of the water). Don’t be surprised to see a school of Spinner dolphins, traveling in parallel pairs along your tour boat, rhythmically leaping out of the sea. Baby dolphins flip themselves into the air with abandon alongside their parents. You may also spot albatross and Boobies (birds which nest and hatch in the caves of the Na Pali cliffs). snorkeling, diving, tubing, and swimming Beneath the kayaks’ paddles, the surfboards’ swooshing fins, and the touring catamarans’ bouncing pontoons, lives a cool, quiet blue world that belongs to Kauai’s abundant sea life. Diving and snorkeling continued on page 32

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H&S Archives photos

Having fun in the water can range from surfing to boogy-boarding or just playing in the sand. continued from page 30 tour operators provide instructions on how to use their equipment and even how to get great photographs and videos of your sea adventures. Some of the best snorkeling locations are: Koloa Landing; Lawai Beach; Poipu Beach Park; Lydgate Park; Tunnels Beach; and Kee Beach. Grab a snorkel, mask, and flippers for an afternoon, and enter Kauai’s enchanted underwater world. “Tubing” is a unique experience. Plan to get wet. Tubing takes you on a guided tour through jungles and tunnels using former sugar plantation irrigation waterways while you “float on air,” relaxed on an inner tube. Tubing is an effortless way to tour some of the island’s otherwise inaccessible areas. surfing Surfing, boogie boarding, kite-surfing, and windsurfing are popular water sports on Kauai. If you have a favorite board, you can check it as airline baggage (for an extra fee) or you can rent gear on island. Key spots for surfing include: Polihale; Major’s Bay at Barking Sands; Davidson’s at Kekaha; Pakalas; Poipu Beach; Lawai Beach (also called PKs and Acid Drop); Shipwrecks; Nawiliwili Harbor; Hanalei Bay; Tunnels; and Cannons. Check with local lifeguards and surfers for a report on conditions and be aware of dangerous currents, increasing swells, and rip currents. Windsurfing/kite-surfing spots include: Salt Pond; Mahaulepu; Anini Beach; Hanalei Bay; and Y-Camps (YMCA at Haena). For local wind and surf conditions, call (808) 245-3564 or 245-6001. kayaking Are you ready to dip your paddle in clear fresh water fed by sparkling waterfalls? Or would you rather explore sea caves, cliffs, and waterfalls and then snorkel in a secluded bay or lagoon amid tropical fish? Or both? Then a kayaking tour is the perfect activity for you. Millions of years of erosion and weathering have created more plains and rivers on Kauai than on any other Hawaiian island. Kauai’s 32 Kauai Magazine

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six rivers are the only navigable rivers in Hawaii: Waimea; Hanapepe; Huleia; Wailua; Kalihiwai; and Hanalei. Via river kayaking, you can discover tropical rainforests, woods, and swampy jungles amidst a profusion of colorful flowers and butterflies. Most kayak tour operators offer waterfalls tours combining a perfect blend of paddling, hiking, swimming, and picnicking at places like Secret Falls up the Wailua River. fresh-water fishing Anglers may be surprised to learn that freshwater fishing for trout and bass on Kauai’s rivers, ponds, streams, and reservoirs is remarkable. You can trout fish at Kokee State Park (on Kauai’s west side) in designated streams, reservoirs, and “ditches.” Trout fishing season begins with a 16-day period in August and continues on weekends and holidays through September. Large-mouth bass, small-mouth bass, and the exotic South American peacock bass have been caught in Kauai’s reservoirs. Fishing licenses are required and available online at http:// For more information, call the Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Aquatic Resources at (808) 274-3344. deep-sea fishing If you are hooked on deep-sea fishing, both exclusive and shared charter trips are available. Shared charters reduce your cost, but fish caught on shared trips are divided among passengers. Excursions can vary from several hours long to up to two-day overnight adventures to remote fishing spots around the island. On these exciting excursions, you fish for ono, billfish, ahi, mahi-mahi, and more. For fishing, kayaking, snorkeling, diving, surfing, sailing, whalewatching, Kauai is happy to bathe you in multiple water sports. Whatever ways you choose to get wet – in, on, or under the water – the experience is bound to be therapeutic in the magical waters surrounding Kauai. W

The Hawaiian Monk Seal, found only in Hawaii, is one of the most critically endangered marine mammals on earth. Despite births in recent years, the estimated population on Kauai is less than 30. Happily, monk seals are being sighted around the main Hawaiian Islands with increasing regularity. Though Hawaiian Monk Seals do not migrate beyond their Hawaiian chain home, some individuals move between colonies and do inhabit the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands, the tiny islands and atolls that lay to the northwest of the main Hawaiian Islands. Many believe Monk Seals get their name from their monk-like preference for solitude; others think that the loose skin around the seal’s neck resembles the hood of a monk’s robe. Ancient Hawaiians apparently thought neither and named the seal Ilio-holo-i-kauaua, which means “dog that runs in rough waters.” Monk seals are sometimes also referred to as “living fossils” because, as the oldest living members of the pinniped order, they have remained virtually unchanged for 15 million years. Adult monk seals measure about 4-7 feet in length and weigh between 400-600 pounds. Unlike many other seal species, female Hawaiian Monk Seals are usually slightly larger than the males. Adult coats are light gray to brown in color, with lighter coloring on the chest. The maximum age for the species is 25-30 years, however few seals live that long. Causes of death today include shark attack, entanglement in marine debris, and male seal aggression.

Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

Hawaiian Monk Seal Mystique of the Endangered Monk Seal

Mating occurs in the water, and is rarely observed. Females give birth on beaches near shallow waters, which provide protection from sharks. Females give birth for the first time at five to ten years of age. A newborn pup is jet black in color and weighs about 30 pounds. The pup’s loose, velvety skin cloaks its body like an over-sized coat. The mother seal nurses her pup for a period of five or six weeks. During that time, she is constantly at her pup’s side and does not eat. At the end of the nursing period, the

the following are guidelines for observing seals, should you encounter one on your beach visit: ALWAYS – Stay well behind barricades or signs around a basking seal on the beach, and at least 100 feet from seals in unmarked areas. REMEMBER—To maintain a much greater distance from a mother and pup, or any seal that appears disturbed or agitated. ALWAYS—Pass outside barricades, and never between a seal and the shoreline. REMEMBER—That you should never approach or attempt to feed a seal on the beach, while swimming, or from a boat. ALWAYS—View quietly. Do not throw sand, stones, objects, or make noise to induce movement and create photo ops. REMEMBER—All marine wildlife—seals, sea turtles, dolphins, and humpback whale—require distance, quiet, and respect for proper viewing. 34 Kauai Magazine

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depleted mother leaves her pup to tend to her own nutritional needs. The pup lives off fat reserves for awhile, but must soon learn to hunt and catch its own food. Monk seals feed at night, largely on fish, eels, octopus, and lobster. In the daylight hours, seals spend much of their time sleeping. When on land, these air-breathing sea mammals may look lethargic, sick, or even dead. In reality, the seals come ashore to get their much-needed rest and should not be disturbed or approached.

ALWAYS—Photograph seals from the proper distance and never use flash photography in their presence. REMEMBER—To advise children of proper behavior. An agitated 400 to 600-pound animal can bite or cause other serious injury. ALWAYS—Report any seal harassment—at the beach, in the water, or from a boat operator—to the 24-hour Monk Seal Hotline at (808) 651-7668. REMEMBER—State and federal laws. Harassment or disturbance of a Hawaiian Monk Seal can incur fines exceeding $25,000 and up to 5 years imprisonment. Hawaiian Monk Seals are protected under two federal laws: the Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972 and the Endangered Species Act of 1973. In addition, protection is provided by the Hawaiian Islands National Wildlife Refuge, which includes most of the seal’s current breeding islands. Your respect for the well-being and survival of these natural treasures of Kauai will ensure their presence during your next visit and for generations to come.

Walking Softly

The kids reminded me how to swing free and fast ...

Following some of the action at the Hawaii State Junior Golf Association’s qualifying tournament for the World Junior Championships at Wailua Municipal Golf Course. by D.S. O’Keeffe, author of “The Golf Warrior”.

Miki Ueoka and Lauren Yuma

I like golf.

I like the game, being in nature, and I like physically propelling a sphere through space on a trajectory I imagined and then willed into being. However, the corollary experience, the creation of consecutive or even sporadic failures, shots of ugliness on vectors of horror, taking me on walks to places of darkness and high numbers, can trigger misery in my being that can be vast in magnitude and hard to shake. I can stress about getting stressed, walk in shadows, and wear a cloak of fear till the brightness of the next birdie bursts through the clouds. It's a choice of course, this brooding, probably stemming from a lack of faith There are a lot of swing variables, certainly. An intense study of the stuff can get extremely compartmentalized. It's impossible to think about where every body part should be at every stage of a golf swing. The whole thing lasts only a couple of seconds. Attending to the position of a right index finger or a straightened left elbow seemingly requires that mental attendance to another body part or a swing objective be diminished accordingly. And trying to avoid a golf nightmare is like shopping for a happiness drug without side effects. Forget it. There's a way to go and get to the place one seeks. There's a way there from here. There's a way. I know it. An email was sent to me from Lauren Yuma at the Hawaii State Junior Golf Association. She sought volunteers to help with the qualifying tournament for the World Junior Championships. One of the jobs listed was that of 'walking scorer'. That sounded like a position 36 Kauai Magazine

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with simple requirements; physically grown human, walk with a group of kids playing golf, count strokes taken, record total number per hole on paper with pencil. I can count. I'm qualified. I might even get to see some good golf in the process. Lauren accepted me with no resume submitted. A few days later she called with my schedule. Noon, Thursday, I would be walking scorer for two ten year old boys. Not a gallery laden barn burner featuring a shootout between freshman university stars, a nice walk with a couple of ten year old kids who could probably hit the ball. Maybe they'd card an occasional par. Happy to do it. Things were bustling at the course when I arrived. Tall kids, short kids, skinny kids and stalky kids, independently and supervised, launched balls at the range. Tiny little girls landed shot after shot next to one-fifty markers. Volunteers walked and talked. There were souvenir hats, shirts, shade tents and shuttles. Dave, Jack, June and Thomas and the other county employees that keep the course running smoothly on non-tournament days were smiling and enjoying themselves. Junior, John, Edward and Joey had the carts rolling. The greens crew had the world-class Wailua Municipal Golf Course in awesome shape. Lauren introduced me to Miki Ueoka. They work together running the Hawaii State Junior Golf Association, have an easy grace, and are helped gladly by supportive people from all the islands. They gave me a box lunch, a clip board, my instructions and the names of the two ten year olds I'd walk with. Jacob Kiyoshi Torres and Isaiah Kanno were already at the tee when I arrived, talking and laughing with the kids on deck. It seemed a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere for a world championship qualifier that would advance only two guys to San Diego. Good for them I thought. Jacob and Isaiah were cool and looked me in the eye when they introduced themselves. Both were dressed immaculately in long shorts and matching golf shirts. They looked like miniature professionals. Isaiah was up first. He stepped to the tee, took two practice swings perpendicular to the line, stepped to the ball, squared himself to the target and rocked into a balanced backswing. He turned his back to the target then unleashed an incredible acceleration toward the awaiting orb, uncoiling the twist he loaded into his body and delivering it freely to the club head like it was an extension of his being. He smashed that drive 220 yards down the left side of the fairway. After saying "good shot" to Isaiah, Jacob teed up. He took two practice swings, stepped to the ball, looked to the target then focussed on the ball. Then he took the club back, far. It was a full turn. At the top his wrists and fingers relaxed and allowed the club to drop 30 degrees past parallel. Powerfully uncoiling his lower body, he drove up with his legs and whipped the club head through with a fast, relaxed, free release. He pummelled the ball down the middle, 240 yards! He's ten years old. Nice start on the first hole of a world qualifier in front of peers and public. Head covers replaced, they began the walk. I don't know if next shots were on their minds. Maybe they were thinking about swimming, or birds, or how their golf shoes felt on their feet. I don't know. I do know it was an impressive start. It was fun to see and nice to be. I was witnessing great moments in new careers and revisiting something immanently important. Both kids made easy pars after hitting the green in regulation. The tees had been set with 10-year-old distances in mind but these

guys were launching powerful tee shots straight down the middle with freeflowing, fast swings. On the eleventh, after another monster drive, Jacob hit his remaining 60 yard pitch. It hopped, rolled and stopped just three inches short of the cup. It had looked like it might go in for eagle. Some sort of spontaneous sound comprised both of celebration and disappointment came out of me. Maybe that wasn't professional behavior for an official. Neither kid seemed phased by the outburst though. Jacob calmly walked onto the green, took the pin out and tapped in. Isaiah two putted for par from fifteen feet. Hole after hole there were strong drives that found fairways or the first cut followed by accurate approaches to greens and then putts read well and struck with veteran feel for pace. On the first par five, Isaiah propelled his golf ball to the green's surface in just two shots. Surprisingly, he stuttered slightly there, recording a three putt and missing the birdie. There was no pouting, cursing or club throwing though. On the next hole, a par four, he unleashed a tee shot so pure it flew the fairway, landed on the front fringe, ran through the green, over, and down into rough. Maintaining calm once again, he pitched up to the putting surface and made a nice two putt from forty feet. Solid to amazing shot-making was mixing nicely with friendly sportsmanship. The atmosphere was competitive and serious, calm and enjoyable. The kids were focussed on each shot, on scoring well and were being consistently respectful to one another during the process. Then there was the incident on sixteen. Actually, it began between fifteen and sixteen. A juice refreshment, red of color, perhaps beet, maybe tomato, possibly strawberry of nature, and totally filling it's container, was affixed on top with a sticky screw-on plastic lid. It proved a serious challenge to open. The bottle was understandably being squeezed while torque was applied to the top. When pressure was released with the final twist of the cap, it flowed out and over. I didn't see that moment. From the aftermath I could only imagine the previous event in the consequence chain. I didn't even see the plastic bottle at first. For a brief second, it appeared that an injury of unknown origin had occurred during my supposed watch. It would have to be attended to with immediacy. I wasn't surprised by the apparent calm of the victim. The kids had both demonstrated calm consistently. My calm was now tested. Isaiah appeared to be trying to arrest blood flow from an abdominal wound. Fortunately, the instant of false imagining passed. The bottle was revealed. It was golf, not war. It was a beverage, not an explosive. There was a wash of relief. I did my best to assuage any worries about possible consequences. I'd spilled about a thousand things on myself at that point in this uncompleted life and survived. Isaiah seemed to accept this as truth. He moved on. He teed up, coiled into that human spring and launched another 220 yard drive down the middle. Jacob, perhaps feeling empathy, maybe not, hit his drive on a vector slightly right of centre. He made solid contact. On most holes there wouldn't be much negative consequence from such a shot. On this hole however, the power combined with the slight misalignment, sent the drive sliding off the far side of the sloped fairway down into treacherous rough. That rough is comprised of pine needles and a matrix of craters fashioned by foraging wild chickens. Finding a ball in there is like happening upon an abandoned egg. It's often sad.

I walked ahead with long fast strides. I knew the territory. I found the ball. It was nestled in about the ugliest place possible. It sat way down in soft dark soil, two inches behind a coconut, deep in a chicken crater, under a stick. The space directly above the ball was criss-crossed with the lowest fine branches of the pine towering above. Jacob calmly asked me if the area was a hazard. It wasn't. This information availed him the opportunity to legally ground his club and to move some natural material obstructions. He did this with grace and care so as not to cause ball movement. The lie was about as close to unplayable as it could be. Taking a drop back on a line would put eighty-foot pines in his way. Two club lengths no closer would only place him in similar mayhem. Going back to the tee was an option but he didn't want it. He removed the coconut, excised the stick, moved in amongst the thin branches and took his stance. He tested the limits of the abbreviated backswing, then swung. He advanced the ball four feet, into more dirt and fallen branches. He moved himself those same four feet, stepped into place again over the ball, assessed the new challenge and repeated his procedure. He advanced the ball another seven feet into a less compromising lie. With another swing he successfully excised the ball. It shot up the slope, crested the hill, and hopped directly into a green-side bunker. Jacob pushed his cart up the hill, blasted a solid sand shot ten feet short of the cup, carefully raked the trap for his fellow golfers, then just missed the fast, hard-breaking putt by inches. He sank the short putt remaining, picked his ball from the hole, exhaled with a long soft sigh, shrugged, smiled, and uttered the total. It was a 'seven' and a triple bogey. Isaiah made a par wearing a bright yellow shirt with red splotches. It can be tempting to give up and look forward to something else, a meal, a drink, a trip to another country. Isaiah landed his next tee shot on the green of the 150 yard par three 17th. Jacob, post triple, stepped to the tee. He made a smooth swing that sent his recently washed golf ball straight at the pin. It landed seven feet short, hopped once, rolled, slowed, and lipped the edge of the cup just missing a hole-in-one. He tapped in for birdie. He held up two fingers signalling three things with one gesture; 'birdie', peace, and triumph. Isaiah finished the day three under par. Jacob was three over. The next day, Isaiah shot even par. Jacob shot an amazing six under. They tied and both qualified for 'The World's'. Second rounds happened on Friday morning while I was enjoying another beautiful day in day in the company of Minnie Byun and Heu'i Wong, two wonderful, amazingly talented and practiced 10-year-old girls, who hit drives as far as some pro's twice their age hit five woods. The kids reminded me how to swing free and fast, whipping the club through with a full turn rather than with the hands, staying centred and level. I remembered to hold the club lightly. That enables the clubbed to accelerate freely and square naturally to the target and impact. There's no steering and no pushing. I was reminded how to take care with calm efficiency. Fun and focus are dear friends. "It was great to be able to enjoy my friendship with Jacob and to enjoy the challenge of how great a competitor he is." said Isaiah. "Thanks." said Jacob. u

October / November / December 2013

Jacob Kiyoshi Torres

Isaiah Kanno

Kauai Magazine 37

fun on the land

touring in paradise

Experiencing paradise by wheel, hoof, or foot Kauai is "Gilligan’s Island"? Yes — and Gaynor’s Bali Hai (South Pacific), Jurassic Park’s parkland, George’s jungle, the boss’ "Fantasy Island", Hook’s Neverland, Elvis’ Blue Hawaii, and Ben Stiller’s Tropic Thunder, among others. The island of Kauai has been the setting for dozens of movies and television shows since the early 1930’s — most recently James Cameron’s Avatar. The varied climate and geography provide virtually every type of outdoor scenery imaginable. 38 Kauai Magazine

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These same exquisite landscapes and gorgeous weather are main attractions




Organized movie tours in mini-busses or a 4x4 off-road van are a great way not only to see the locations of wellknown films, but also to experience dramatic parts of the island that would otherwise not be accessible.

Photo: Kerry oda fine art photography /

The more adventurous explorer

Waimea Canyon

might choose to chart a path through Kauai’s wilderness in a four-wheel drive or an ATV. If two wheels are your idea of fun, then bicycling down the Waimea Canyon may be your answer. Perhaps a romantic ride on horseback is your fancy. Ecotourism, nature, and culture-based tourism that is ecologically sustainable and supports local communities is gaining in popularity on the island. Whatever your mode of transportation, a sightseeing tour of Kauai’s exquisite scenery will be a day to record and remember.

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Kauai Magazine 39

ON FOOT hiking Your own two feet are one of the best ways to see the most inaccessible of Kauai’s scenic gems. Dozens of hikes are possible across the island where you’ll enjoy vistas, beaches, waterfalls, and even a swamp that cannot be seen using any other type of transportation. For maps and details covering 34 major hiking trails on Kauai, visit Na Ala Hele, the State of Hawaii Trail and Access Program (administered by the Division of Forestry and Wildlife, Department of Land and Natural Resources) at: Not included on the State’s list (referenced above) is the infamous Kalalau Trail, an 11-mile strenuous coastal walkabout beginning at Kee Beach (at the end of Highway 560) and traveling deep into the Kalalau Valley. Accessible in summer months only, hikers usually take 3-5 days to hike in and out of Kalalau (permit required) which provides unparalleled and stunning views of the Na Pali Coast hanging on the Pacific Ocean. For a shorter, permit-free day trip, trek 2 miles along the coastal Kalalau Trail to the violent surf of Hanakapiai Beach and then another 2 miles inland to the spectacular Hanakapiai Falls, a long, silvery ribbon of water gushing into a large, cool pool, into which you may be happy to throw yourself after the 4-mile fatiguing hike. For permits, call the DLNR at 808 274-3433. luau After all that trekking, you’ll be famished. The luau, which involves parts of your anatomy other than your feet, is an exotic, South Pacificstyle celebration of food, color, style, history, music, and dance. Women in grass skirts, men in face paint, authentic fire dancers (a Samoan convention), and traditional music showcase the cultures and customs of Polynesia. Many luaus are located on beautiful estates adjacent to beaches with a view of the setting sun over the ocean. A typical luau may begin with a flower lei greeting, followed by a traditional Hawaiian “Imu Ceremony,” the uncovering of the roast Kalua pig from its imu (underground oven). Guests then dine on a delicious feast of Hawaiian-style food. In addition to the pig, luau foods typically include poi (taro), chicken, lomi salmon, haupia or coconut custard, sweet potato, salad, fish, rice and many specialty items, such as laulau (individual packets of fish cooked with the pig) and mahi mahi (a delicate white fish). Of course, no modern luau would be complete without mandatory mai tais. The luau feast is accompanied by an energy-filled, live show of pounding drum rhythms and luau dancers who tell the story of Hawaii through their enchanting hula. Visit for the most recent listings of luaus. It’s a good idea to book your reservations well in advance as seating is limited and the most popular luaus sell out early. The luau is an unforgettable experience that tickles the nose with savory scents, entices the palate with delicious flavors, pleases the eyes with colorful entertainment, and bathes the ear in exotic music. Enjoy the enchantment of the luau, Hawaii’s homegrown celebration for a full immersion in Hawaiian culture. WHEELING movie location tours Five-hour guided and narrated tours trek to many of Kauai’s movie locations. Among them are the remote beach where the pilot for the TV show Gilligan’s Island was shot, the famous, and under-renovation Coco Palms resort, where Elvis’ Blue Hawaii was filmed, and locations for such productions as South Pacific, Raiders of the Lost Ark, Six Days, Seven Nights, and Jurassic Park. Passengers in buses view actual scenes from films and television shows on a TV monitor in surround sound. A nice way to see quite a bit of the island is from the comfort of such a touring van. Tour stops may include Opaekaa Falls, one of Kauai’s many beautiful waterfalls on the East Side of the island. Other sites in the tour include Lydgate Beach Park, the famous Wailua Falls (used in the continued on page 42 40 Kauai Magazine

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continued from page 40

opening scene of the Fantasy Island TV series), and Hanamaulu Bay, a location for Donovan’s Reef, Voodoo Island, Pagan Love Song, and Six Days, Seven Nights. motorcycles There’s nothing like riding a motorcycle in paradise. The roads from Kee Beach to Kekaha are lined with spectacular scenery, beaches, parks and lots of fresh clean air, taking all this in is an experience only a motorcycle trip can offer. You can rent motorcycles that fit your riding ability and budget. 4x4 vehicles Some 4x4 tour companies offer tours in rugged air conditioned off-road vans, while others tour in open-air vehicles. One tour takes you to Kipu Ranch, a spectacular 2,500-acre ranch just south of Lihue, featuring a dramatic grand entrance lined with majestic Norfolk pines. The ranch has been used repeatedly in Hollywood hits such as Diamond Head and The Hawaiians, both starring Charlton Heston, and Steven Spielberg’s Raiders of the Lost Ark and The Lost World,

sequel to Jurassic Park. Other films shot on the Kipu Ranch include Outbreak and the 1997 remake of Mighty Joe Young. Other companies take you on spectacular off-road tours, including to Kokee State Park with panoramic vistas of Waimea Canyon that can only be seen from taking one of these tours. ATVs For those who crave a wilder ride and don’t mind getting dirty and wet, many of the location sites can be toured via ATVs, rolling through streams and into forests over rocks, following the Huleia River, where Indiana Jones took off in his seaplane. ATVs are easy to operate and prior experience isn’t necessary — just a willingness to get splattered from head to toe in Kauai’s classical red dirt. Some providers travel through private estate lands, into the island’s interior, to waterfalls and along mountain ridges. Some trips bounce along old cane roads and tunnels and explore tropical forests and lush jungles. bicycles If pedaling is your preference, you could book a bicycle tour of the Waimea Canyon starting at the crack of dawn. Begin at the rim (elevation, 3,500 feet) of the famed canyon and traverse down 12 miles of winding road skirting this “Grand Canyon of the Pacific” (so dubbed by Mark Twain) all the way to the blue Pacific Ocean. Bikers will experience the gorgeous reds, oranges, and earth tones of the layered canyon walls. Or get off the beaten track with a cruise along the scenic roads of the private Grove Farm Plantation. Pedal past various crops, the now defunct Koloa Sugar Mill, and enjoy some of Kauai’s pristine coastline. There are also several bicycle rental companies for those that wish to explore in a small group or on their own. Maps are available for the best, and safest, places to ride. HORSING AROUND Touring Kauai on horseback is a romantic and unique way to see the island’s abundant natural and inner beauty. On the South Shore, saddle-up for a horseback ride along the beautifully sculpted Mahaulepu cliffs. Mosey along sandy white beaches and stop for a swim. On Kauai’s North Shore, take a leisurely horseback ride to gaze upon the majestic emerald mountains of Hanalei (where you just might see “Puff the Magic Dragon”) and the patchwork squares of taro fields in the valley. Then stop for a swim in the pool of a cascading waterfall. No matter how you make the trek — on two wheels, four wheels, two legs or four legs — Kauai’s trails, canyons, cliffs, mountains, beaches, fairways, and rolling hills are waiting for you to put yourself in the picture and explore and capture the inner secrets of the land of the Garden Island. I

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Kerry oda fine art photography /

The Powerline Trail boasts some of the best views of any hike.

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Kauai Magazine Oct / Nov / Dec 2013  
Kauai Magazine Oct / Nov / Dec 2013  

The Magazine of the Garden Island