THE SOURCE BOOKLET

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information

boo k let

“I am your guide.”

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BREAD & BUTTER BARCELONA 21–23 JANUARY 2009


Origins # 1 : Denim

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“I am woven on vintage shuttle looms”

The marketing and communication platform for the best of apparel sourcing, located in the centre of BBBarcelona. Profit from the preview timing and the BREAD & BUTTER energy!

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www.breadandbutter.com/thesource


B&B Areas Winter 2009

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THE SOURCE PAVILION

THE SOURCE HALL 2.1

AUDITORIUM

GRAND RESTAURANT

LUNA PARK

AVENIDA

& STREET

BBBOULEVARD

B&B BUSINESS CLUB

SPORT

DENIM BASE

URBAN SUPERIOR

FASHION NOW

CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION — 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto

PLAÇA D’ESPANYA

BREAD & BUTTER BARCELONA 21–23 JANUARY 2009 W I N T E R 20 0 9

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photos : Davide Toniolo

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meet the origin

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Dear Visitor Welcome

to the second edition of THE SOURCE, the BREAD & BUTTER marketing and communication platform for the fashion fabrics industry!

This season, THE SOURCE welcomes all B&B visitors and takes place in two locations: in Luna Park and in its own hall above Urban Superior. In Luna Park, the centre of BBBARCELONA, several greats of the denim industry present themselves – innovative denim and flat weavers, finishers and associated accessory producers display their creativity and innovative new product lines. It‘s all about denim in THE SOURCE pavilion!

In THE SOURCE Auditorium, in the same hall, and in collaboration with New York trend agency Stylesight, THE SOURCE and B&B are presenting interactive fabric, garment, colour trend and “Zeitgeist” seminars (S/S 2010) with leading designers of fashion fabric manufacturers and protagonists from the urban streetwear culture worldwide. A further highlight on Wednesday, 21 January at 4:00 p.m.: the Denim Talk, with industry greats and opinion leaders from the world of denim and jeans, representing contrasting views from Europe, Japan and the USA. Meet the origin at THE SOURCE and THE SOURCE pavilion!

Sincerely, Carsten-Oliver Voss

W I N T E R 20 0 9

: denim talk THE SOURCE Auditorium Urban Superior, 2nd floor Wednesday 21 January 2009 4:00 p.m.

: vernissage CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION – 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto: Urban Superior, 2nd floor Wednesday 21 January 2009 5:30 p.m.

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Above Urban Superior, THE SOURCE is presenting its comprehensive trend area, with 3D trend-tableau showcases and lounge areas — a meeting point for all fashion professionals. One of THE SOURCE highlights can also be found here: “CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION – 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto”, an exhibition curated by the renowned Italian weaver and art collector Luigi Bonotto, a selection of leading works of the Fluxus/Arte Povera movement. The exhibits come from the world’s most comprehensive collection of this revolutionary art movement, the Archivio Bonotto. CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION at THE SOURCE also features life performances by Fluxus artists Philip Corner, Ben Patterson and Ben Vautier, who has created an exclusive textile installation for BREAD & BUTTER. We are especially proud to exhibit main oeuvres of Fluxus like “Robot: The Baseball Player” by Nam June Paik, as well as works by Yoko Ono and Joseph Beuys.

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meet the team

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: Publisher BREAD and butter Barcelona S.L. Paseo de Gràcia 25, Pral 2, 08008 Barcelona, Spain Fon: +34 93 272 67 63, Fax: +34 93 272 67 70 contact@breadandbutter.com, www.breadandbutter.com Creative Direction Robert Dizdarevic´ Art Direction Katrin Friedmann Graphic Design Alexander Groth, Tobias Menze Managing Editor Jenny Boers Contributors Laura Keller (View2) www.view-publications.com Denim Talk, Trend Seminars, Trend Forecast provided by stylesight.com Final Drawing Anja Decker, Bettina Jüngling, Gregor Wollenweber Production Manager Kathleen Hiller Project Coordination Urte Peter, Franka Schuster

I M PR I N T

Brand Feature Content Delivered by our exhibitors

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Brand Feature Web Engine Sven Kesting sven@v26.org Printing MEDIALIS Offsetdruck GmbH, Heidelberger Str. 65/66, 12435 Berlin, Germany www.medialis.org BR E A D & BU T T E R BA RC E LONA


meet the origin

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contents THE SOURCE Pavilion Luna Park : brand list & area map — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 8–9 //

THE SOURCE Hall 2.1 : brand list & area map — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 10–11 //

Denim Talk – Global Denim Culture : Raw & Uncut co-presented by Stylesight, THE SOURCE and B&B — — — — — — — — — — 12–13 //

Trend seminars : co-presented by Stylesight, THE SOURCE and B&B — — — — — — — — — — 14–17 //

CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION — 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto — — — — — — — — — — — 18–23 //

Spring/Summer 2010 Begins Here. Stylesight Textile Forecast — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 24–31 //

Striving for Imperfection :

THE SOURCE exhibitors : company features — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 36–46 //

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C ON T E N T s

View2 denim trend preview — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 32–35 //

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the origins

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BBBOULEVARD

B&B BUSINESS CLUB GRAND RESTAURANT

AVENIDA

THE SOURCE PAVILION

THE SOURCE HALL 2.1

AUDITORIUM

URBAN SUPERIOR

SPORT & STREET

LUNA PARK

DENIM BASE

FASHION NOW

PLAÇA D’ESPANYA

THE SOURCE Pavilion Luna Park

“Limonta” : SD 01 “Bottonificio BAP” : SD 02 “THE SOURCE” : SD 03 “View Publications” : SD 04.1 “Collezioni Trends” : SD 04.2 “Royo” : SD 05 “Reca Group” : SD 06 “ITV Denim” : SD 07 “Candiani Premium Selvedge” : SD 08 E X H I BI T I NG C OM PA N I E S

“Okinawa” : SD 08

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“r&dlab” : SD 08 “Blastex” : SD 09 BR E A D & BU T T E R BA RC E LONA


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BBBOULEVARD

SD 05

Royo

Urban Superior Cup

SD 06 SD 07

Reca ITV Group Denim

SD 04.1 View Publications

SD 04.2

Collezioni Trends

SD 03

THE SOURCE

SD 02

Okinawa, Candiani Premium Selvedge

RA

SD 08

Okinawa, r&dlab, Candiani Premium Selvedge

Belgious

URBAN SUPERIOR

Bottonificio BAP SD 09 Blastex SD 01 Limonta

LUNA PARK

BBBOULEVARD

Sif贸. BBQ Kids Club

Trattoria da Angel

LU NA PA R K

Moritz

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the origins

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BBBOULEVARD

B&B BUSINESS CLUB GRAND RESTAURANT

AVENIDA

THE SOURCE PAVILION

THE SOURCE HALL 2.1

AUDITORIUM

URBAN SUPERIOR

SPORT & STREET

LUNA PARK

DENIM BASE

FASHION NOW

THE SOURCE Hall 2.1

PLAÇA D’ESPANYA

CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION : — 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto — Art Installation by Ben Vautier Stylesight “C.L.A.S.S.”

E X H I BI T I NG C OM PA N I E S

“CRYSTALLIZED™ — Swarovski Elements”

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Lounge by “CRYSTALLIZED™ — Swarovski Elements” THE SOURCE — Auditorium BR E A D & BU T T E R BA RC E LONA


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CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION — Art Installation by Ben Vautier

Meeting Point

CRYSTALLIZED™ — Swarovski Elements

Lounge by CRYSTALLIZED™ — Swarovski Elements

ENTRANCE

PRESS LOUNGE

THE SOURCE Lounge

AUDITORIUM

C.L.A.S.S

Stylesight

Performance

Bar

H A L L 2 .1.

CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION — 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto

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denim talk

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DENIM TALK — Global Denim Culture : RAW & UNCUT Co-presented by BREAD & BUTTER, THE SOURCE and Stylesight : location

Denim has been reinvented in hundreds of ways and never goes

Auditorium Hall 2.1. Urban Superior Area 2nd floor

out of style. Originally created in early 1700s Europe, denim was first introduced to U.S. gold miners in the mid 1800s. Popularized throughout the United States by silver screen cowboys in the 1930s, denim was re-introduced to the broader world by G.I.s during WWII. But it wasn’t until the 1960s that this material exploded around the world. Denim is now the one textile that connects youth culture everywhere.

: time Wednesday 21 January 2009 4:00 p.m.

: speakers Umberto Brocchetto Alberto Candiani Bruno Collin Yuji Honzawa Mamoru Kaihara Yukiko Mae Giorgio Presca Youichiro Seki Jason Schlossberg

denim talk

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But where are the new centers of denim innovation? Is Japanese denim really superior? Does New York have the most skilled denim pattern makers? Why are the best denim laundries in Italy? Will consumers continue to purchase premium denim during a recession? Who is influencing the future of denim, and what’s next?

Join

Stylesight’s resident “denim head,” Jason Schlossberg, as he moderates a provocative panel discussion on these topics with a number of highprofile industry luminaries. The panel discussion will be followed by an audience Q&A.

Confirmed participants:

Umberto Brocchetto (RadRags) Alberto Candiani (TRC Candiani) Bruno Collin (WAD Magazine) Yuji Honzawa (Doctor Denim Honzawa Co., RED CARD Jeans) Mamoru Kaihara (Kaihara) Yukiko Mae (Kurabo) Giorgio Presca (VF Corporation: Wrangler, Lee, Seven For All Mankind) Youichiro Seki (Nisshinbo) BR E A D & BU T T E R BA RC E LONA


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denim talk

Raw & Uncut – live & unplugged : the Denim Talk

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trend seminar

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Stylesight/THE SOURCE trend seminar : “A World of Extremes” : location

Join Isham Sardouk,

Auditorium Hall 2.1. Urban Superior Area 2nd floor

Spring/Summer 2010

: time Wednesday 21 January 2009 2 p.m.

: speaker

Stylesight’s Senior Vice President of trend forecasting as he shares the edits of Spring/Summer 2010 season, including the must have colors, key items and styling.

is all about a world of extremes and a collision of desires. The desire for contemporary craft with the desire for progressive technologies and creative solutions. Craft has wider implications and possibilities than we have considered. We will convey the beauty of nature in collaboration with contemporary design and materials. The seminar will show how future design will not fully return to traditional skills as such, but combining them with modern technology to create a new approach for sustainability as we consider it for our survival.

Isham Sardouk

TREND seminars

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Taking participants through a unique multi media show that will engage and challenge the senses through powerful images and the latest in sound and technology, Isham will highlight the most important trends for men, women, young men and juniors, graphics, prints, raw materials and trims. In addition, Isham will provide an early look at some of the key signals emerging for Autumn/Winter 2010/2011. Isham is a widely recognized fashion and style visionary and forecaster. He is responsible for leading all season trend research and forecasting for Stylesight. Based in Stylesight’s Paris office, Isham has more than 19 years of industry experience and an extensive background in global trend forecasting, color development and product design for the U.S., Asian and European markets. BR E A D & BU T T E R BA RC E LONA


trend seminar

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Stylesight/B&B trend seminar :. “MixMaster”. From Michael Jackson’s singular glove and Madonna’s lacy wed-

: location

ding dress, to Amy Winehouse’s lined lids and towering beehive, musical icons have immense influence on the aesthetic tastes of their respective generations at large.

Auditorium Hall 2.1. Urban Superior Area 2nd floor

don a daring item, saunter on stage and ignite a million look-a-likes the following day. While fashion continues to be heavily dictated by the collections, the relationship between style and the music industry is not to be underestimated. While this pattern is clear when we look to the past, the dynamic relationship between music and fashion is rapidly evolving as the internet continues to facilitate globalization and the spread of ideas and trends. Stephanie Meyerson, Stylesight’s V.P of Youth Culture, will explore the influence of music and technology on the development of the youth and streetwear trends that we see today. Drawing on current artists such as MGMT, The Ting Tings, The Black Kids and others, she will provide examples of ways that youth are combining runway, street, and vintage inspirations with music, art and social media to redefine the making of a youth culture. W I N T E R 20 0 9

: time Thursday 22 January 2009 2 p.m.

: speaker Stephanie Meyerson

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Throughout the years, musicians have had the unique power to

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trend seminar

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Stylesight/THE SOURCE trend seminar : “Fabrics of the Future” : location Auditorium Hall 2.1. Urban Superior Area 2nd floor

: time Thursday 22 January 2009 4 p.m.

: speaker Sophie Lucie Dewulf

TREND seminars

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Be the first to hear the latest developments in eco-fabrics and performance textiles, while getting a look at emerging material innovations. Learn how these fibers of the future will dramatically alter product design and development.

Join Sophie Lucie Dewulf, Stylesight’s Materials Editor, as she introduces the key material trends for Spring/Summer 2010. While material contrasts were key concepts of past seasons, S/S 10 will take it to new heights and extremes. The season will feature bold juxtapositions, daring pairings and clashing cultures. Following the material trend presentation, Sophie will moderate a panel discussion with some of the world’s top weavers, printers and textile manufacturers, who will discuss the latest fabric and fiber developments. Finally, seminar attendees will be encouraged to feel the fabrics featured throughout the seminar at Stylesight’s Trend Touch Table. Sophie Lucie Dewulf is based in Italy and has more than 20 years experience in the textile industry. She works closely with textile designers and suppliers around the world to provide Stylesight subscribers with the most up-to-date and accurate materials reporting and forecasting. BR E A D & BU T T E R BA RC E LONA


trend seminar

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Stylesight/B&B trend seminar :. “The Zeitgeist: A User’s Manual”. Live in the moment because the only way we can predict the future

: location

is by truly understanding the present. This year will certainly be unlike any other that has come before it in our lifetimes. While there is a global outpouring of joy and hope from the recent U.S. Presidential election, there is also widespread fear and panic over the future of our world economy. Hope or fear, which will win over our hearts and minds?

Auditorium Hall 2.1. Urban Superior Area 2nd floor

So, what is in store for 2009?

: time

What will we all be talking and buzzing about? What will we be caring about? Where are the new emerging capitals of art, industry and commerce, and what will fall of the map? Wouldn’t you like to know?

Friday 23 January 2009 2 p.m.

Jason Campbell, editor-in-chief of ‘The JC Report’, an international

: speakers

Confirmed architects include:

Andrew Creighton (VICE Europe) David Erixon (Head of Brand Manifestation for Vodafone) J Errico (Fashion Director, NYLON magazine) Jennifer Mallory (Columbia Records) Traver Rains (Heatherette)

All attendees will receive their own copy of Stylesight’s ‘The Zeitgeist: A User’s Manual’, an informative listing of everything you need to live in the moment. W I N T E R 20 0 9

Jason Campbell Andrew Creighton David Erixon J Errico Jennifer Mallory Traver Rains

// — TREND seminars

authority on fashion and lifestyle trends, knows the answers. Jason will be moderating a provocative panel discussion on the fascinating topic of “what is now?”. Joining Jason will be several influential guests, all “architects of the zeitgeist.”

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exihibition

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CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION — 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto: BREAD & BUTTER and THE SOURCE proudly present an extraordinary exhibition during BREAD & BUTTER BARCELONA in January 2009: CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION – 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto.

: location THE SOURCE Hall 2.1. Urban Superior 2nd floor

: vernissage Wednesday 21 January 2009 5:30 p.m.

E X H I BI T ION

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In THE SOURCE area above the Urban Superior, more than 120 objects are displayed – many of them exemplary for the revolutionary Fluxus art movement, which started in the beginning of the 1960s, shocking and fascinating many people. Fluxus is a form of action art and thematically mainly occupied with subjective connections between everyday objects and art. Artists such as Joseph Beuys, John Cage, George Brecht, Nam June Paik, and George Maciunas found their artistic home in Fluxus.

The exhibition at THE SOURCE, curated by Luigi Bonotto, consists of a selection of objects from one of t he world’s most comprehensive Fluxus collections, the Archivio Bonotto.

Life performances by artists Ben Patterson and Philip Corner as well as an installation by Ben Vautier, created exclusively for BREAD & BUTTER BARCELONA, are further highlights of this extraordinary project at THE SOURCE.

Fluxus : poesia visuale, concreta e sonora

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C R E AT I V E R’ evolution

Nam June Paik Robot

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exihibition

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“All is art” Asked to write an article

on “CREATIVE R’EVOLUTION – 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto”, Dr. Cristiano Seganfreddo visited Luigi Bonotto at his home to talk about the exhibition.

“It’s the first days of December. It’s evening. Dinner time. I am with Luigi Bonotto in his house in Bassano del Grappa to talk about the exhibition which is the theme of this article. I find him in his buen retiro, a capsule he withdraws to in order to be in the peaceful company of Fluxus. A big table is covered with sheets of paper printed with small icons showing many of the thousands of works of the Archivio Bonotto. It is on them that Luigi ponders and creates his curatorial geographies which will give life to the exhibition “Creative R’evolution – 50 Years of Fluxus from the Archivio Bonotto”.

: the curator Luigi Bonotto Fluxus art collector Haute Couture fabrics producer Philanthropist

: the author Dr. Cristiano Seganfredo is an art critic, journalist and member/director of various art associations

E X H I BI T ION

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Luigi is always full of life. Despite his mildness and discretion. It is like opening a living art-history book. Lived art history. For this is what Fluxus and Bonotto have been. Thirty years of sharing life, rather than of collecting. Reciprocal love and esteem. Cooperation. The room is crammed with works of art. Everywhere. From the doors to the windows and the walls. On the kitchen shelves. Everywhere lies a trace, a sign, a presence. “You know. They passed by. They lived here. They would stop by. We would work out pieces and situations. We would live together. And we would bring new projects to life. Any kind of project.”

Luigi is an artist himself. He went to the Academy. His master was Vedova. Nothing is born out of nothing. “But the meeting with Fluxus widened my vision and perspective. I entered the dimension of continuous invention with Fluxus. And I never left it, because it has become my life. Of course I dedicated myself to the fabrics, which eventually became an industry, but that thing is inside of me. And it never got out”.

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Guiseppe Chiari “... a tempo”

C R E AT I V E R’ evolution

George Maciunas Fluxchess

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George Brecht Valoche

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Robert Folliou Optimistic Boxes

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Luigi is leaving tomorrow for the house of Ben Vautier in Nice. “I’m bringing him with the car all the clothes he will write on for the exhibition in Barcelona. There will be more or less one hundred dummies. He is happy about the exhibition too. He has a very colourful house, the outer walls are full of his works. So full of writings. With him...” With his work, Luigi Bonotto gives us a big lesson, which becomes handy in times like these, with crisis of visions. When everybody is inventing any trick just to sell some more t-shirts.

“I loved Fluxus from the very first moment because it’s a state of mind. A spirit. A way of reading and seeing. It is what helped me through every moment of my life. A lot even in my work. Every time I am with an artist, I feel like new paths are opening up in front of me. It is like some things are clearer to me. It is like what was foggy would turn crystal clear”.

Cristiano Seganfreddo Vicenza, December 2008

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“Tous es art, mais il faut des artistes pour le faire comprendre aux gens” C R E AT I V E R’ evolution

Ben Vautier

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TREND FOR E CA ST

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Trend

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Spring/Summer 2010 Begins Here. The Stylesight Textile Forecast The Stylesight

materials team is here to provide THE SOURCE with the definitive view of S/S 10. The team analyzed the hottest runways, walked the most influential trade shows and met with innovative fiber manufacturers to get early previews of their “works in progress” and fabric R&D pipeline.

Four themes are explored: the shabby charm of Bayou, Subversion’s complex individuality, the simplicity and spiritualism of Sanctuary and Jubilation’s euphoria with the digital world. The fabric focus will again be on lightweight, as well as light-reflecting surfaces, performance and easy care, eco-friendly, recycled-fibers, raw edge textiles, and denims with a hint of vintage. In opposition to this natural direction, be aware of colorful plastic stories with transparency games, and expect to exploit rubbery and silicone finishing, even within badges and brand labels. Don’t forget to go wild and trust in worldwide cultures clashing. Native American prints interacting with Indian bullion thread embroidery? It is high time to blur culture connotations!

Stylesight :

The world’s most powerful style information service.

Stylesight is the leading provider of web-based trend forecasting and product development tools for creative professionals in the fashion and style industries. We offer our subscribers around the world a world-class Fashion Office with an unparalleled ‘point of view’ on the industry, an expansive Stylesight Search library with more than three million inspiring images, comprehensive market intelligence and innovative technology tools that enable faster and more efficient product development.

: visit Stylesight at “Stylesight BBB Loft” Sport & Street Hall 4, level 3, booth 3.1

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Stylesight covers all the Women’s, Men’s, Youth Culture & Children’s, Designer and Haute Couture Collections, Street, Vintage, Retail, Celebrity Fashions, Denim, Color, Trade Shows, Mood Galleries and Interiors. Stylesight is headquartered in New York, with offices in Los Angeles, London, Paris, Sao Paulo, Hong Kong, and Melbourne, and includes a global staff of trend-spotting correspondents.

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TREND FOR E CA ST

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TREND FOR E CA ST

“Bayou” Shabby charm imprinted with bio/eco issues : — Fibers : Natural, vegetal, man-made, and cellulose fibers: linen, cotton (organic and upland cotton), recycled fibers (PET, parachute cloth, cotton cloth, etc), corn fiber, milk fiber, bamboo, hemp, ramie and any sustainable-oriented fiber/fabric. — Surfaces/Weaves : Texturized, irregular, imperfect surfaces, evident slubs, mending-alike embroideries; rustic to raw yet always natural handles; broderie Anglaise, honeycomb, chiffon, gauze, faille, ottoman, seersucker, suiting, calico. — Fancies : Retro stripes, raised motif effects, vintage and colonial suiting checks, micro patterns. — Print & Graphics : Large scale hand drawing, monochromatic sketching, foliage imprint, ditzy to romantic retro florals, indefinite motifs. — Dyeing : Yarn dye and garment dyeing with vegetal dyes (mud, tea, hazelnut), stain dye/print, worn out dye treatments and washings. — Production : Environmental-friendly processing.

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— Fibers : Complex fiber compositions where natural meets synthetic: e.g. viscose/silk, cotton/polyester/ elastane, wool/nylon, linen/nylon. — Surfaces/Weaves : Corroded and crinkled surfaces, crochet and spider web knit openwork, guipure and new puckered laces, textured material layering surfaces, irregular pleating, cut outs, tear outs, ethnic embroidery with modern twist. Gem, micro mirrors and rhinestone encrusted material effects that sculpt and create new volume. — Fancies : Contrasting, daring fancies inspired by different art influences (from poster and collage art to ethnic and graffiti) shamelessly mixed. — Print & Graphics : Flock, foil and digital printing, hand painting and graphic transfers, overprint. Miscellaneous patterns: brushstrokes, blurred florals, geometrics, Oriental sceneries, abstract animalier, various tribal (Afro-Indian-Native American), trash prints. — Dyeing : Pigment dye, oxidized effects, splotches of color, malteinte, tie & dye. — Production : Any and all procedures apply, including ecofriendly production, finishing, hand weaving, knitting and embroidery, as well as advanced industrial manufacturing. W I N T E R 20 0 9

TREND FOR E CA ST

“Subversion” Complexity evidence individuality :

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TREND FOR E CA ST

“Sanctuary” Unusual simplicity extended by pure spiritualism : — Fibers : Delicate fusion or vegetal and animal naturals (e.g Flanders linen, China silk, Peruvian Pima handpicked cotton); in addition: skin-friendly man-made fibers (e.g. bamboo or wood pulp viscose, milk protein fiber, modal and Pro-modal, Tencel, Ingeo). — Surfa ces/Weaves : Pure surfaces, micro patterns, linear to basket weaves, lightweight effects. Unusual effects of delicate overlapping and layering. Finest origami pleating. Poplin, voile, organdi and organza, shantung weaves. — Fancies : Trompe l’oeil relief, delicate grainy embossings, jacquards made as bas-reliefs, stencils. — Print & Graphics : Pattern inspiration comes from mineral to organic sources, from nature richness including fossils, shells, marble, stones, veined grounds. — Dyeing & Treatments : Enzyming, sandblasting, washable pigment dyes. — Production : A twist of worldwide artisan handicraft and high-tech manufacturing.

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— Fibers : Unconventional fabric blends, natural fibers match with artificial ones: silk, polyester, cotton, Lurex metallics, elastane, nylon, viscose, plastic, rubber, paper, etc. Use of “shape-memory” techno yarns/ fabrics. — Surfaces/Weaves : Transparencies play with opacity. Gauzy, modern pleating, bubble effects, translucent calendaring, pearly laminates, zig-zag and bayadère jacquards. — Fancies : Bold Pop Art printed and yarn dyed saturated stripes; sequined, digitized, kinetic, psychedelic fancies with strongest offbeat graphic impact. — Print & Graphics : Pixilated motifs, message lettering, abstract color blocking and pop stripes in traditional and digital printing. — Dyeing & Treatments : Use of electric to fluorescent dyes, ombré and airbrush dyre and print techniques, iridescent and wet look coating, silicone, wax and resin finishing, use of gelatin emulsions, heat fusions with transparent films. — Production : Advanced and experimental manufacturing processing.

TREND FOR E CA ST

“Jubilation” Joyous euphoria joins with a digital world :

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“Bayou Denim”

TREND FOR E CA ST

Slate dusk depletes visibility, as the vibrancy of stained glass dulls on the Everglade floor. Denim is at once basic and dramatic creating a steamy mix of exaggerated pieces and slim body hugging silhouettes. Jeans get a real, authentic feel and opt for railroad stripes, herringbone patterns and plain weave denims for work wear inspired styles. Grey and greencast blues are an option besides traditional indigo with heritage stains and watermarks.

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“Jubilation Denim” Bleaching, streaking, and fading effects are updated in acidic brights and pure shades. Violets and true blue provide richness for garment dyeing techniques. Vibrant 80s inspired screen prints create colorful rhythms on denim shapes. Cropped silhouettes continue a play on proportions. Denims take on a different face as double-dyed techniques make satin stripes stand out in black on a colored ground and gradation adds intensity to baggy shapes.

TREND FOR E CA ST

Pale hues lighten new denim looks and infuse surfaces with a vibrant energy.

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trend preview

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STR I V ING FOR iMPeR FeCTiON : text

Throw out the rulebook in your denim selection.

Laura Keller Editor View2 Magazine

It’s time to embrace irregularities.

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With

an abundance of interesting denim constructions and colours on offer this season, a trend for crumpled and crinkled surfaces and a new appreciation for what looks authentic and what doesn’t, we can finally breathe a sigh of relief and strive for imperfection. Just think, would the Mona Lisa be as valued with a forced symmetrical smile?

Let’s face it, there have been a hell of a lot of bad looking ‘vintage’ jeans out there in the past. Ripped for no apparent reason, washed in a way no wear could have achieved, whiskers that draw attention to the crotch in a bad way and destroy and repair details that just look plain wrong!

TREND PRVEIVEIW EW

But this season it’s all about vintage looks retaining a truth and authenticity. Think quality not quantity: enough vertical slubs to give a worn-in flavour, but not a streaky outlook; blasting, but only in the places natural wear could have created; dirt marks and splatters placed to add subtle interest, not to shout “look at me!”

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In design lines, think of worn-in knee shaping, abrasions and tears created by wallets and trims that fit the overall feeling, like old school cynch-back fastenings, aged metalwork and thread ‘with a history’. In finishing, focus on real ‘lived-in’ washes, permanent pleating forged over time and light oily handles (from being touched repeatedly during wear).

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Clockwise from top left : Authentic worn wallet marks, RadRags // Coloured wefts, Bossa Denim // Lightweight, slubby & creased surfaces, Kuroki // Vintage leather patches, Vivolo // Dirty finishes, RadRags // Shades of blue, Matesa W I N T E R 20 0 9

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Vibrant mid indigo

casts work across a wide spectrum of blue hues, from intensively bright through to almost white. White and off-white denim in general is another strong story, but only with a dirty finish. There’s no room for purity and serenity here. Coloured wefts, in particular, warm yellows and browns, suit the aged look. It’s also time to veer away from the greens of before to more reddish and purple tints and casts. Grey is again a staple, refreshed by brown tints or washed almost to white. New green and grey selvedge edges are also something to keep an eye out for. Black almost disappears, for the time being at least.

Lightweight fabrics are propelled to the next level. Gone are the days when heavy processing rendered fabrics destroyed and un-useable. Now, with a host of new dense weave structures that deliver additional strength, fabrics are bulk-free, weightless and can still be pummeled in the wash then abused in the finishing process. There’s a new level of versatility and flexibility. Both through built-in natural stretch and moving on from the bi-stretch to the power stretch, suiting the 1980s and early 1990s looks that continue.

Laura Keller

Aside from the seasonal developments in look and structure, we see a bold move towards integrating technology into denim bases. Thermo-regulating properties allow heavier weight denims to be worn in comfort in the summer and weights as light as 8oz can maintain body warmth in colder climates. Wicking, where moisture is transferred away from the skin to the surface of the fabric is another functional direction. Both are worthy developments that not only embrace our unpredictable climate, but also open the door to using denim in more functional ways than were previously possible.

Denim with a conscience is still a key ‘work-in-progress’ consideration. Never before have there been more useable and good looking qualities. From continued developments in organic cottons and recycled PET bottles to specialist ecological finishing processes, this is where ‘Mother Nature’ and industry can work together for a better future.

TREND PR E V I E W

We all know the world is not perfect, so let’s fit within it this season in a perfectly imperfect way.

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contributor

T H E SOU RC E

View2 is a biannual magazine dedicated to the world of casual, sport and jeanswear. It is designed to fill an information gap for a magazine that truly helps manufacturers and retailers to design, make and sell products that the market really wants.

Laura Keller is the editor of View2 magazine and co-owner of 2Som Studio, a design and creative consultancy based in Amsterdam. She has a broad knowledge of the casualwear market and an out-of-control shoe and sneaker collection. www.view-publications.com

View2 Issue 6 on sale from 29 January

: visit View Publications at THE SOURCE — Pavilion in Luna Park : SD 04.1

V I E W2

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Winter 2009

meet the origin

T H E SOU RC E

C OM PA N I E S

“We are the origin.”

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ex hibitors The following companies are participating in THE SOURCE January 2009 : Blastex — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 38 // Bottonificio B.A.P. — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 39 // C.L.A.S.S. — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 40 // Candiani Premium Selvedge — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 41 // ITV Denim — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 42 // Limonta — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 43 // Okinawa — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 44 // r&dlab— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 45 //

Royo — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 47 // CRYSTALLIZED™ - Swarovski Elements — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 48 //

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Reca Group — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — 46 //

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meet the origin

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“Blastex” : contacts Head Office 202, Ari Barroso 202 Itoupavazinha - 89065130 Blumenau - SC Brazil Tel/Fax: +55 (47) 3327-3245 export.bnu@blastex.com www.blastex.com CEO Nicolas Roldan Mobile: +55 (47) 78110643 blastex@gmail.com Export Manager Josue Gonçalvez Mobile: +55 (47) 84135806

High quality equipment for sanding, spraying cabins for used, resins and pigments, polymerization ovens, sandblasting, ozone and laser

( history : With 20 years of history, Blastex International is an innovative Brazilian company focused on developing and marketing equipment for the finishing of garments in the textile industry. Blastex produces high quality equipment that is installed in the best laundries in the world. It has a full line of equipment covering applications like sanding, spraying cabins for used, resins and pigments, polymerization ovens, sandblasting, ozone and laser. We will be the first Brazilian company, provider of the world textile industry, to participate in the BREAD & BUTTER BARCELONA.

/ highlights :

At the BBBARCELONA, Blastex will release our new line of laser, with a full operation machine during the fair. We hope to see you at the United Nations of BREAD & BUTTER!

C OM PA N I E S

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[ products :

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meet the origin

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“Bottonificio B.A.P.” [ products :

VALUE FOCUS ON THE CUSTOMERS Establishment of a strong relationship with the custumers and understand their demands. EXCELLENCE In the working stages, from the concept to the shipment. RELIABILITY To increase custumer trust,offering of products and services of high quality, showing efficiency and responsibility. PEOPLE Our company look for brilliant collaborators, creative and dynamic people with important values like: – integrity and honesty – enthusiasm for all of what concerns customers, partners and technologies – respect for people and availability – wish to face new projects – objectivity, critical spirit and wish of a constant improvement.

( history :

BAP have operated for three generations in the national and international market. Specialized in M.O.P. and natural materials like horn, corozo, wood, we are also able to supply other materials like polyester, metal buttons,and metal zippers. Flexibility, quality and an excellent delivery time are BAP’s best qualities.

: tradeshow contact Bottonificio Bap Spa Primo Calcagno Tel: +39 035 939076 primo@bottonificiobap.it

: contact Bottonificio Bap Spa Via G.Sora 16/A 24060 Villongo S.Filastro BG Italy Tel: +39 035 9390 Fax: +39 035 929320 info@bottonificiobap.it www.bottonificiobap.it

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/ highlights :

C OM PA N I E S

You wanna know what sort of things we like to create…, well, I’m not gonna tell you. You’ll have to come by and see for yourself!

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“C.L.A.S.S.”

Creativity, Lifestyle and Sustainable Synerg y

: contacts

[ products : CLASS is the first global, commercial showroom platform

CLASS Milan C.so Venezia 35, 20121 Milano Italy Tel: +39 02 760 18402 - Giusi Bettoni & Antonio Lettieri CLASS London East Central Studios Ltd 1 Ezra Street, LONDON E2 7RH UK Tel: +44 20 7729 4749 - Sandy MacLennan CLASS New York The Four Hundred 286 Spring Street, Suite 202 NEW YORK, NY 10013 USA - Bahar Shahpar

( history : Founded in September 2007, CLASS was a business response to the growing demand for easy access to a wide range of eco-sustainable materials. The first permanent showroom opened in Milan in 2007, followed by London and New York in 2008.

/ highlights :

CLASS creates synergies throughout the fashion chain with a wide membership that includes:

Eco-Textile Mill Partners who provide a comprehensive seasonal fabric resource. Eco-Fashion Product and Accessory Partners who promote their finished goods under the CLASS message. Eco-Lifestyle Partners who support and match the ethos of the CLASS showrooms CLASS also stimulates industry partners through its CLASS Innovation Lab, showcasing creative seasonal concepts and qualities that push the boundaries of responsible innovation. www.c-l-a-s-s.org

C OM PA N I E S

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created to promote and communicate eco-responsible textiles and processes from raw materials to fabrics and finished products to designers, brands and retailers. Materials range from Natural fibres and Organics, to Recycled/Repurposed products, and Innovation materials made from Renewable Resources.

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meet the origin

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“TRC Candiani” [ products : High quality denim from carefully selected cotton. ( history : Founded in 1938 by Mr. Luigi Candiani as a small industry manufacturing fabrics for working clothes, TRC Candiani started to produce the “Massaua”, the forerunner of denim, after the war. At the end of the 1960’s, the shuttle weaving system was changed to the projectile weaving system. With the big success of denim in the European market, TRC Candiani started the production of denim manufacturing. In 1976, TRC Candiani installed the first indigo dye range, and started to exclusively product denim fabric. In the following years, the industrial process involved all the different stages of the manufacturing, from the raw material to the finished linear meters. The success of TRC Candiani constantly grew, resulting in the production of 35 millions meters p.a. (in 2007). Control over the production and the 660 employees is held by the 3rd and 4th generation of the Candiani family. A new plant was opened in 2004, increasing the production space from 60.000 m2 to 97.000 m2, and resulting in a wide production capacity and total vertical integration: including the spinning, warping, dyeing, weaving, finishing, and final inspection of the denim.

: contacts Tessitura di Robecchetto Candiani S.p.A. Via Arese, 85 20020 Robecchetto c/I (Mi) Italy Tel. +39 0331 876220 Administration & Management Fax: +39 0331 876223 Sales & Marketing Fax: +39 0331 876866 trc@trccandiani.com www.trccandiani.com

// —

2004, TRC Candiani also holds the OEKO TEX STANDARD 100. TRC Candiani’s special range of ecological products, TRC “organic denim”, meets the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), guaranteeing that the fabrics are produced by using 100% organic cotton, that the indigo dyestuff is prereduced, and no chemicals are used for intermediate processes and finishing. The creation of an integrated productive structure, consistent and continuous investments, excellent and innovative machineries, the support of advanced technologies, differentiation and innovation in the product, increased product know-how, respect of environment dispositions, tight connection with the local district, and a service care orientation result in the growth of production, and in an increasement of international export. Today, TRC Candiani is one of the best quality denim producers in the world, with an excellent market position. W I N T E R 20 0 9

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/ highlights : Apart from full compliance with the STANDARD ISO 14001:

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meet the origin

T H E SOU RC E

“I.T.V.

Industria Tessile del Vomano”

: contacts I.T.V. Industria Tessile Del Vomano Località Faiete 64036 Celino Attanasio (TE) Italy Tel: +39 0861 668677 Fax: +39 0861 650972 www.itvdenim.com I.T.V. Vice President Paolo Gnutti Tel: +39 0861 668677 Mobile: +39 3483 890710 gnutti.paolo@itvdenim.com Administration Marzia Gnutti Tel: +39 0861 668677 Mobile: +39 3484 115025 gnutti.marzia@itvdenim.com Mario Limoncelli limoncelli.mario@itvdenim.com

C OM PA N I E S

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[ products :

Area test, water treatment, spinning, warp, dyeing, weaving, finishing, garment division, washing department

( history : Founded in 1972 as Tessitura Vicentina, the company moved to Central Italy, to Abbruzo, in 1992 and was renamed I.T.V. Industria Tessile del Vomano S.r.l. . The production facilities extend over approx. 30,000 sqm, where 16 million sqm of denim from 5 to 14 oz. are produced. I.T.V. is able to offer a complete vertical production, always using the most advanced technology of yarn producing, dyeing and finishing.

/ highlights : The ITV Denim collection 2009:

CATIONIC: a new technical dyeing process in order to develop washing treatment “as vintage as ever” OPTICAL: the ecru translation of our indigo collection ORGANIC: organic fabrics INNOVATION: the denim is technology. Components and applications reflect the “innovation”. RAINBOW: overdyeing in roll for homogeneous and special shade’s effects in garments. CARENESS: that’s not only fashion, but wellness for your customers. EVERGREEN: our denim fabrics never go out of fashion TATU: research, technique and innovation to face the real fashion demand SELVEDGE: fabrics weaved with original 19th century looms. The authentic denim: in construction, shades and yarn. THE DENIM: classic denim fabrics: the remake of real 70s vintage styles.

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meet the origin

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“Limonta” [ products : weaving and finishing ( history :

Limonta is an old and very diversified textile group in Italy. The company has large weaving mills and innovative finishing operations. The Limonta philosophy is combining the beauty of the past with technology of the future.

/ highlights :

Historically woven cotton textile produced on vintage looms combined with the newest and most innovative finishing.

Tel. +39 031 857111 Fax +39 031 857 202

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C OM PA N I E S

AND A LOT MORE...

: contacts Limonta S.p.A. via C. Battisti, 15 23845 Costamasnaga (LC) Italy fabcoat@limonta.com www.limonta.com

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“Okinawa” : contacts Okinawa S.r.l Via dell - Economia, 24 35044 Montagnana, Padua Italy Tel: + 39 0429 800900 okinawa@okinawa.it www.okinawa.it Sales Suwatchai Woonkon Tel: +39 345 4727783 swoonkon@okinawa.it Ivan Maniez imaniezzo@okinawa.it Appointments Elisa Mizzon Tel: +39 0429 800900 emizzon@okinawa.it Main Contact Michele Ruffin Tel: +39 0429 800900

C OM PA N I E S

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[ products : Accessories: labels, gadgets, bags, belts and more. ( history : In 1984, Michele Ruffin founded Okinawa in the basement of an old home belonging to his family in Montagnana. He started with belt production and fascinated by the fashion sector, he decided also to produce labels for clothing. Over the years, the company grew and occupied an important area in the market, but Michele Ruffin realized that this market required much more, such as a competitive company capable of putting itself at the service of its customers. This generated the need for continual change: the fact that the sector is now very different from what it was in the past convinced him that the company could not rest on its laurels, but had to make the “quality leap” in order to beat the “global” competition and become a reference point regarding its creativity and service.

/ highlights :

An increasingly competitive market requires excellent product quality at an increasingly competitive price and an excellent level of service, capable of satisfying the most disparate customer needs simultaneously. The new corporate policy is mainly based on reorganisation, fully adopting the Lean Production concept.

This philosophy, aimed at eliminating all kinds of waste, affects all aspects of the production process with an approach based on continual, step-by-step improvement in order to minimise costs and generate value. This logically leads to Total Quality Control, which involves preventing product defects and eliminating their causes by constantly refining the production cycle. It was therefore necessary for Okinawa to make substantial changes in its history, creating the conditions required to improve the value for and of its customers.

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meet the origin

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“r&dlab” [ products : Services: r&dlab tries to make its customers’ dreams come true and share with them the emotion of an feasible project.

( history : All began when Michele Ruffin, creator and owner of Okinawa, a fashion accessories company, made his know-how available and supervised a team of professionals and partners in order to ensure a perfect combination between technology and craftsmanship via r&dlab and satisfy a wide range of market needs, with care and originality. Nowadays, r&dlab has got two strategic locations: a marvellous showroom in Milan and a creative workshop in Montagnana, Padua.

/ highlights :

r&dlab follows the development and discovery of new technologies and materials. It finds new tools for controlling its process and presenting the uniquness of its Italian style. The full customers’ satisfaction is the target of r&dlab that, sharing emotions with them, proposes not only a creative project but guarantees its feasibility.

: contacts Main contact Michele Ruffin info@redlab.info www.redlab.info Sales and Marketing Suwatchai Woonkon Tel: +39 345 4727783 suwatchai_woonkon@redlab.info Ivan Maniezzo Tel: + 39 348 6785675 ivan_maniezzo@redlab.info Appointments Elisa Mizzon Tel: +39 0429 800900 emizzon@okinawa.it

C OM PA N I E S

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“Reca Group” : tradeshow contact Reca Group SpA recagroup@recagroup.com

: contacts RECA Group SpA Italy recagroup@recagroup.com www.recagroup.com RECA Group Ltd Hong Kong / Asia recagroupAsia@recagroup.com www.recagroup.com RECA Group Inc New York / USA recagroupUSA@recagroup.com www.recagroup.com

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[ products : Reca Group SpA, a leader in fashion trimmings, produces innovative and customized labels, hangtags and packaging.

( history : Reca Group Spa since 1962 Reca Group Ltd since 1998 Reca Group Inc since 1999

/ highlights : Dennis Rodman is the new testimonial for the advertising campaign of Reca Group spring/summer ‘09. Beyond dispute basketball champion in the USA, Rodman is considered the strongest rebounder of his generation. His ability to JUMP higher than the rest in the court has made him the best DEFENSIVE PLAYER in his position. Like many other exceptional players in the NBA, Rodman was known for his not so orthodox behavior off the court. Eccentric personality and very exposed to the media, he has been at the same time the protagonist and the victim of his own fame. Reca Group’s spring/summer‘09 campaign celebrates Dennis Rodman, an eternal champion of the NBA. He is immortalized with the class of black and white and the formal stylist elements of “MADE in Italy”, in a graphic design project that takes the same route as the legend. Reca Group’s campaign is reviving the famous rebounder and with a proactive athletic move is joining him to the international fight against AIDS. The most famous DEFENSIVE PLAYER of all times Dennis Rodman JUMP against AIDS to protect LIFE. JUMP AIDS. DEFENSIVE PLAYER FOR LIFE.

BR E A D & BU T T E R BA RC E LONA


meet the origin

T H E SOU RC E

“Royo” [ products :

Royo and Denim...and inseparable duo, the never-ending story of a love affair. Denim isn’t just simple fabric, but rather our own true philosophy, a style of life. Fibre: the new name for our Sportwear line Senstyle: The Botanic fiber. Apart from the features of a natural biodegradable fiber – delicate, soft and breathable – we add its great resistance and versatility even after agressive treatment and handling.

( history :

Threads intertwining weft into warp to knit history. The history of Royo. The history of a company capable to imagine the future and dress the dreams with precious fabrics along more than 100 years. The story of four generations of the Royo family interpreting the textile art in first person, challenging status-quo and provoking in every season. A brand allegiance to people, quality and innovation that fell love with responsible fashion in 1903.

/ highlights : Royo is concerned and has been actively involved since its foundation on all aspects related to the resource needs of the textile process. Specially on worker rights, environmental impact and ensuring the absence of any known hazard. Royo advocates for design intensive, innovative and original products for an ethical, responsible and sustainable fashion. Royo is a certified OekoTek 100, 1000 & Made In Green company.

: tradeshow contact Tejidos Royo Alberto Guzzetti Mobile: + 34 636453896 aguzzetti@tejidos-royo.com

: contacts Head office & Mill Calle 4, nmr.1. Pol. Ind. Picassent 46220 Picassent (Valencia) Spain Tel: +34 96 124 03 00 royo@tejidos-royo.com www.tejidos-royo.com USA raul.sales@tejidos-royo.com AsiaPac. faldeguer@tejidos-royo.com Europe aguzzetti@tejidos-royo.com

C OM PA N I E S

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meet the origin origin

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“CRYSTALLIZED™ : contact CRYSTALLIZED ™ – Swarovski Elements Segment Marketing Myriam Bendiab Business Building Brandgut A-6112 Wattens Austria Tel: +43 5224 500 - 0 myriam.bendiab@swarovski.com www.crystallized.com

// —

– SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS

[ products :

Swarovski is the leader in production of precision-cut crystals that are used in the fashion and jewellery industry as well as in the world of lighting design, architecture and interior. Swarovski crystals have become an indispensable material for the creations of international designers, and since the beginning of 2007, Swarovski is selling its loose crystal elements to the worlds of fashion and design under the product brand CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements.

( history :

In 1895, Daniel Swarovski I, a Bohemian inventor and visionary, moved to the village of Wattens, Tyrol in Austria, with his newly-invented machine for cutting and polishing crystal jewellery stones. From these beginnings, which revolutionised the fashion world, Swarovski has grown to be the world’s leading producer of precision-cut crystal, for fashion, jewellery and more recently lighting, architecture and interiors.

/ highlights :

C OM PA N I E S

Innovation, creativity and product excellence are established Swarovski hallmarks so the CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements presence at BREAD & BUTTER underlines the added value benefits of creative partnerships. Here designers and brands can enjoy a first hand experience of CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements know-how and the multitude of creative application techniques.

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Origins # 1 : Denim

T H E SOU RC E

“I am premium selvedge denim.”

The marketing and communication platform for the best of apparel sourcing, located in the centre of BBBarcelona. Profit from the preview timing and the BREAD & BUTTER energy!

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www.breadandbutter.com/thesource


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