KANSAS! Magazine | Issue No. 4 2024

2024 | vol 80 | issue 4 | kansasmag.com

relax. retreat. reconnect.

Experience the excitement of summer in Topeka!

You don’t want to miss out on the many tastes and sounds of the summer festival season! With food, music, dancing, and so much more, Kansas’ capital city is the perfect destination for your summer getaway.

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VISITTOPEKA.COM

MUSEUMS • HISTORY • ART TOURS • DINING • SPIRITS The Gunsmoke Trail will take you on a road trip adventure through four Kansas communities featured on the Emmy award-winning Western classic GUNSMOKE. Turn your journey into an interactive adventure with the GUNSMOKE TRAIL PASS. Earn points and prizes just by visiting locations along the trail.

KansasGunsmokeTrail.com

Explore

DERBY Small Town Charm, Big City Fun.

DERBYKS.COM/EXPLORE

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Biking Across Kansas for Fifty Years

With 50 years and some 25,000 cumulative miles, Bike Across Kansas remains one of the best, most challenging, and most social ways to explore Kansas

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Urban and Small-town Escapes

PHOTOGRAPH Dave Mayes

Get away from the routine with these unique retreats

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V I S I T D O D G E C I T Y . O R G / F A M I L Y

FUN AND ADVENTURE AWAIT AROUND EVERY CORNER IN DODGE CITY Relive the wild west with live reenactments of the shootouts that earned the city the nickname “Wickedest Little City in the West”, sip a sarsaparilla in the world famous Long Branch Saloon, and catch the Variety Show with Miss Kitty.

Cool off at the Long Branch Lagoon, our 27,000-plus square foot western-themed water park, explore the art and history of Historic Downtown, catch a concert or show, or enjoy a delicious meal at any of our fabulous local restaurants.

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Known for its vibrant college town atmosphere thanks to Kansas State University, Manhattan offers a blend of small-town charm and modern amenities. Whether you’re exploring the picturesque Flint Hills, enjoying the local culinary scene, or attending cultural events, there’s plenty to do. Plus, the slower pace compared to larger cities can be a refreshing change of pace for relaxation and reflection.

VisitManhattanKS.org

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Departments KANSAS DETAILS

WIDE OPEN SPACES

10 Cuisine Fine Food and Good Eats

22 Fine Dining for the Campers Rock Springs Ranch works to create memorable, sensational (and even educational) experiences around the table

12 Culture Arts and Experiences

PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT) Hays Convention & Visitors Bureau, Haines Eason, Kansas Tourism, Meagan Young

14 Heartland People and Places that Define Us 16 Behind the Lens A Conversation with KANSAS! Photographers 18 Kansas Captured Authentic Life in the Sunflower State 20 Reasons We Love Kansas Celebrating Unique Attractions

26 Oktoberfests Towns across Kansas will celebrate a Bavarian tradition of beer, food, music, and family fun 32 Authentically Wise A Wichita track and field coach has won an online following by creating videos of slow-travel tours through less populated towns in Kansas and across the nation

IN EVERY ISSUE 7 It’s All in the Extra Details 8 A Hello from Our Publisher 58 KANSAS! Gallery 64 From the Poet Laureate

ON THE COVER Manager Naomi Williams relaxes in the soaking tub at Mud & Lotus. Photo by Jason Dailey

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Kansas Tourism, a division of the Kansas Department of Commerce

Andrea Etzel PUBLISHER

Laura Kelly GOVERNOR

David Toland

LT. GOVERNOR & SECRETARY OF COMMERCE

Bridgette Jobe

TOURISM DIRECTOR

SUNFLOWERPUB.COM | LAWRENCE, KANSAS KSMAGAZINE@SUNFLOWERPUB.COM

DESIGN & PRODUCTION

Bill Uhler

Bob Cucciniello

Shelly Bryant

Nathan Pettengill

PUBLISHER

DIRECTOR

DESIGNER/ART DIRECTOR

MANAGING EDITOR

Joanne Morgan

MARKETING JMORGAN@SUNFLOWERPUB.COM

Alex Tatro

Kalli Jo Smith

MANAGING EDITOR

Leslie Clugston Andres COPY EDITOR

ADVERTISING DESIGNER

WWW.SHERIDAN.COM

PRINTER

Susan Roberts

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Dan Lautner

ACCOUNT MANAGER

KANSAS! (ISSN 0022-8435) is published five (5) times per year

by Kansas Tourism 1000 SW Jackson St., Suite 100 Topeka, KS 66612; 785.296.3479; TTY Hearing Impaired: 785.296.3487.

Periodical postage paid at Topeka, KS, and at additional mailing offices.

Newsstand price $5 per issue; subscription price $20 per year; $36 for two years.

All prices include all applicable sales tax.

Please address subscription inquiries to: Toll-free: 800.678.6424 KANSAS!, 1000 SW Jackson St., Suite 100 Topeka, KS 66612 Email: kansas.mag@ks.gov | Website: www.KansasMag.com POSTMASTER: Send address change to: KANSAS!, P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146.

Please mail all editorial inquiries to: KANSAS!, 1000 SW Jackson St., Suite 100 Topeka, KS 66612 email: kansas.mag@ks.gov The articles and photographs that appear in KANSAS! magazine may not be broadcast, published or otherwise reproduced without the express written consent of Kansas Tourism or the appropriate copyright owner.

Unauthorized use is prohibited. Additional restrictions may apply.

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PHOTOGRAPHS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT) Aaron Patton, Dave Mayes, Kalli Smith, Jason Dailey

URBAN AND SMALL-TOWN GETAWAYS Whether you hope to escape to city life or a remote retreat, writer Lucas Shivers breaks down a mix of urban and small-town getaways essential for enjoying the sweltering summer.

Mud & Lotus, a hidden sanctuary in downtown Lawrence, makes self-care a social activity.

Whether you’re looking for a fun date night or a spa day with the girls, this Lawrence retreat merges affordable self-care practices and holistic health care to uplift the body, mind and spirit. Drawing inspiration from her background in traditional Chinese medicine, founder Shahida Spann-Ryan offers a range of spa treatments, as well as a soaking tub, sauna garden and newly opened cloud room.

Looking for a slower-paced overnight getaway? History buffs should look no further than the Historic Elgin Hotel. This boutique hotel, owned by Tammy and Jeremy Ensey, is situated in the quiet town of Marion, just 50 miles northeast of Wichita. It offers 12 suites, each uniquely decorated to pay homage to its 1800s-inspired era, a full-service restaurant, fitness center and more. Find more unique getaways in this issue.

A R O U N D page 30 Seneca page 13 Benton page 34 Kinsley page 14 Garden City page 21 Elkhart

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STAR-STRUCK Shooting portraits of the Empire House Players at Wichita’s Old Cowtown Museum was a chance for Aaron Patton to visit some of his favorite locations of the past. “I basically grew up in Cowtown,” explains the Wichitabased photographer and frequent contributor to KANSAS! magazine. The family-friendly acting troupe has more productions set for this season, providing opportunities for the next generation to grow up with memories of exploring history and enjoying entertainment at Cowtown.

ON THE ROAD Dave Mayes’ first-hand account of taking photos and riding along with the Bike Across Kansas event is remarkable for its descriptions of the beautiful scenery, friendships, hospitality, history, unforgettable pies and awe-inspiring weather encountered along the way. Mayes also notes the courtesy—and sometimes lack of— that auto drivers showed bikers as they shared the highway. As Bike Across Kansas brings hundreds of cyclists across the state each summer, let’s all remember the importance of giving space to one another along our highways and ensuring that everyone has a safe journey home, wherever that might be.

page 44 Neosho County page 10 Sedan page 34 South Haven

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Summer is about the moments we create and the memories we hold dear.

ANDREA ETZEL

PUBLISHER, KANSAS! MAGAZINE facebook.com/KansasMagazine @KANSASMag KansasMagazine (get spotted; use #kansasmag to tag us)

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY Andrea Etzel

I know I’ve said it before, but this time of year always fills me with nostalgia. I relish the simple joys summer brings.

Lazy mornings on the porch might be my favorite, listening to the breeze blow through the leaves of the cottonwood tree behind my house or watching the tiny glints of sunlight sparkle on the dew-covered grass that always seems to need mowing. There are also backyard barbecues and local festivals.

Summer is about finding solace in the beauty surrounding us; it is about capturing those pockets of time to escape the daily grind, to rest, rejuvenate, and reconnect with what truly matters.

As you turn these pages, I hope you’ll be inspired to make the most of these fleeting days and find your own perfect escape.

I would like to take a moment to congratulate our editorial and creative team for their recent successes at the International Regional Media Association’s award banquet. KANSAS! won three gold awards, an award of merit, and—for the third consecutive year—earned finalist for Magazine of the Year. The passion and dedication our editors, writers, photographers, and artists bring to each issue is truly remarkable. Every year, they continue to raise the bar.

Lastly, I would like to ask for your help. As we look ahead to 2025, the 80th anniversary of KANSAS! magazine, we have exciting plans (more on those to come), but we first want to hear from you, our readers. On the next page, you’ll see a link and QR code that direct you to a brief reader survey. Please take a moment to provide feedback. You can also always send me an email at andrea.etzel@ks.gov or drop a letter to me, using the address listed on page 6.

Dear Reader, We want to hear from you.

As KANSAS! celebrates 80 years in 2025, we need your help.

Please take a moment to answer this quick survey. We want to hear your feedback on what you in enjoy in the magazine, and what you would like to see in the future.

You can find the survey on KansasMag.com or scan the QR code with your phone.

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GUNNAR’S BOURBON COMPANY Sedan

The spiked milkshakes offered at Gunnar’s Bourbon Company in Sedan came about by accident, says Bill Kratsas, partner-manager.

With their distillery attached to the 120-year-old former Bradford Hotel, Kratsas and his partner suddenly found themselves in restaurant management. Exploring menu options one night, they began making some of what he calls “dessert-type, boozy items.”

“It came to mind, ‘Hey, let’s incorporate these great old-fashioneds into some sort of dessert,’ and we came up with the milkshakes,” he says.

The classic old-fashioned, one of the most popular cocktails in the nation, is a combination of bourbon whiskey, sugar, bitters and a dash of water. The Gunnar’s maple bacon old-fashioned milkshake starts with Gunnar’s bourbon, ice cream and milk.

“Then we add a number of things: caramels and chocolates and, of course, a candied bacon garnish,” Kratsas says. “It makes for a great boozy dessert.”

Another option is the pecan oldfashioned milkshake, made with the same ingredients but substituting pecan old-fashioned cocktail ingredients for the maple bacon; both milkshakes are topped with whipped cream, candied bacon, and a preserved Italian cherry. gunnarsbourbon.com | 620.222-0992

BRGR Prairie Village

Three boozy milkshakes grace the menu at BRGR in Prairie Village. The brandy Alexander includes brandy and créme de cacao; the Revolver is made from bourbon, malted milk and Caffè Amaro, and the Kansas Grasshopper consists of créme de menthe, créme de cacao, and chocolate chips. BRGR’s regional beverage director, Daniel Orr, prefers Kahlúa in his milkshake and suggests asking the bartenders to add your favorite mix-in. brgrkitchen.com | 913.825.2747

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Shakes with a Boozy Kick A new milkshake fad returns the drink to its pre-Prohibition origins, whiskey and all S T O R Y

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he much-loved, creamy milkshake is becoming buzzworthy again. According to the Dairy Alliance, the first milkshakes in 1885 consisted of cream, eggs and whiskey.

These boozy mixtures were replaced by kid-friendly concoctions made with flavored syrups and malted milk in the early 1900s. It wasn’t until 1922, two years after national Prohibition outlawed alcohol, that ice cream became the main ingredient. By the 1930s, milkshakes were a common treat.

The recent trend in loaded milkshakes piled high with toppings stirred renewed interest in spiked versions of the nostalgic treat. Now ordered typically as an after-dinner dessert, these milkshakes may include coffee liqueur, Irish cream, amaretto, bourbon or rum.

Known for their hand-blended, over-the-top milkshakes, The Pennant in Topeka mixes UV Cake Vodka, Fireball, peanut butter whiskey, or coffee liqueur into any of the six milkshakes on their menu.

“I think the idea behind that coincides with drinks like the White Russian that are blended with cream,” says the restaurant’s general manager, Todd Renner.

The Pennant began serving milkshakes with alcohol when it opened a little over six years ago, according to Renner.

“It was something that was fun and unique, and it was a good W H E R E I N K A N S A S ? opportunity for us with having milkshakes on the menu already, kind of the next step was the adult milkshake,” Renner says. “They have been popular all along.”

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Prairie Village

thepennanttopeka.com 785.286.6808

Above The Cookie Crush milkshake at The Pennant can be mixed with a variety of liqueurs and alcoholic beverages. Opposite The You’re Killin’ Me Smalls milkshake is another popular choice for an alcohol-mixed dessert.

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“It was something that was fun and unique, and it was a good opportunity for us with having milkshakes on the menu already, kind of the next step was the adult milkshake. They have been popular all along.”

—TODD RENNER

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Where Villains Are Met with Boos! (and Then Standing Ovations) Old Cowtown Museum’s resident actors bring old-time vaudeville to the stage and the audience into the action

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udience members cheer as a dashing hero saves a distressed maiden from a dastardly villain in a play performed in the Empire House theater at the Old Cowtown Museum in Wichita.

The theater’s director, Michelle Frikken, explains that this type of melodrama complements the museum’s mission.

“Cowtown exists in the 1870s time period, and melodrama was popular at that time,” Frikken says.

The Empire House Players acting troupe is both an old and new tradition at Wichita’s living history museum.

A theatrical group performed melodramas for decades at Old Cowtown until the 1990s. After many years without a group, the museum is in its third season of hosting the all-volunteer troupe, which often performs the works of local playwrights.

True to the melodrama format, audience participation is written into the script.

“We encourage audience members to throw popcorn at the villain, and to boo and hiss and say ‘yay’ and ‘hurrah’ and to ooh and ahh,” Frikken says. “We do go out into the audience; we actually had a villain that answered someone’s phone when it rang during the performance.”

The cast members remain in costume when mingling with the audience after the shows, gladly answering questions and filling requests for photos.

Old Cowtown Museum’s executive director, James Quint, says the melodramas are a key educational component of the museum’s broader mission.

“One of the important parts of the melodrama is it helps to bring awareness of all the different things that we have to offer at Cowtown for people who may not have heard about us before, or people who may not think of visiting a museum,” Quint says. “If they don’t want to come and look at exhibits in a traditional kind of museum sense, this might be the way they can interact and engage with Old Cowtown.”

The next show is How the West Was Worn or … Black Hat Optional on Aug. 16–18 and 23–25. In this play, serious double trouble results when two villains, one of whom is the sheriff, work together to commit dastardly deeds that may cause the railroad to bypass the town. In addition, the fashion-designer heroine, Terry Robe, may lose her shop unless someone comes to her rescue.

Christmas Castaways will be performed Nov. 15–17 and 22–24; Frikken describes it as a spoof on the 1960s sitcom Gilligan’s Island.

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LONG BRANCH VARIETY SHOW Boot Hill Museum, Dodge City

Billed as the longest-running seasonal theatrical show in the country, the Long Branch Variety Show at the Boot Hill Museum began 65 years ago and features historical personages such as Miss Kitty Russell (popularized in the drama series Gunsmoke). The Long Branch Saloon, a drinking establishment on Dodge City’s Front Street in the 1870s, was owned by Chalkley Beeson, the other main character in the musical, dramatic, and comedy routines with Russell. Can-can dancers also kick up their heels during the museum’s Variety Theatre performance. A countrystyle dinner precedes the show. boothill.org | 620.227.8188

PRAIRIE ROSE RANCH Benton

Keeping the spirit of the American cowboy alive, the Prairie Rose Ranch takes visitors back to days gone by and offers musical performances in the Prairie Rose Opera House. Upcoming concerts include the Western Music Group of the Year award winner 3 Trails West on July 13, the Bucky Fowler Band Show and Dance on July 27, and award-winning cowboy singer Barry Ward on August 10. Concert tickets may be purchased with or without a barbecue dinner; online reservations for the meal are required, and concert-only reservations are requested, but walk-ins are welcome. prairieroseks.com | 316.778.2121

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Above (top, from left) Empire House Players include Cianna Atchison, Glenn Williams, and Alyssa Goerzen.

Opposite Todd Reifschneider appeared in the production of “Granny Smith Goes to Washington or ...

She Was the Apple of His Pie.”

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Escape to Adventure Themed escape rooms offer year-round challenges for families, friends, and work groups S T O R Y

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THE SLAMMER Lyons

Julie Mead

lmost a decade ago, while on a trip in Colorado, Robyn and Nate Morrison were looking for something different to entertain their family.

They found an escape room and discovered a new career for themselves.

“At that time, escape rooms were pretty new,” Robyn recalls. “That one was mainly just puzzles and not so much a theme, but we still had so much fun.” On the ride home, the couple discussed how they could improve and expand the concept. By November 2016, they opened Escape the Clock in Garden City’s historic downtown.

Escape rooms are a type of group puzzle-solving challenge. They usually begin by locking a group in a room and having them discover a series of themed and connected clues that lead to a combination or key that allows the group to exit. For safety, in most cases the exit is never truly locked, and the group’s play is usually monitored on a camera by a clue master or referee who can speak to the group and provide hints or any required assistance.

There are dozens of escape rooms throughout Kansas. Some are literally rooms while others are in larger venues.

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Garden City

Escape the Clock plays to themes of intrigue and mystery and was built on the couple’s previous experiences.

For the thematic elements, Robin incorporated her lifelong love for mystery stories and choose-your-ownadventure books. And for the physical aspects, Nate relied on his background as a mechanic.

The couple regularly rotates scenarios and solutions. During the holidays, they incorporate Christmas themes in at least one of the rooms.

“We get ideas for themes from everywhere: television, movies, books, or simply driving down the street and seeing something that sparks our imagination,” Robyn explains.

Over the years, Escape the Clock has become a family affair. The couple has four children, ranging in age from teens to early 20s. “Our kids help out with the business, doing everything from helping to construct the rooms to acting as ‘Clue Masters’ while the rooms are in play,” Nate explains.

“They have even recruited their friends to assist.” escapetheclockgc.com | 620.805.5064

Located at the historic Rice County Jail in downtown Lyons, The Slammer challenges guests to escape from holding cells that were in use until 2001. The facility also hosts murder mystery dinners, historical tours, and overnight guests.

620.680.1839 thericecountyslammer.com

LOCKED Manhattan

This venue offers several scenarios in a classic room format. For beginners, the owners recommend The Witching Hour, a scenario where you have one hour to locate and abscond with a witch’s spell book. Locked posts its success rate for each room, so you can choose your adventure by theme or challenge level. Current rooms include Pet Project, a university-themed encounter with a mysterious animal, which has the lowest success rate of 30%, Kingdom Quest, a medievalthemed challenge with the highest success rate of 40%, and more.

262.843.5625 lockedmanhattan.com

Above Nate and Robyn Morrison created their customized escape room experience at Escape the Clock in Garden City.

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Meagan Young A conversation with KANSAS! photographers about their lives in photography

@myoungcreative

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eagan Young is a Kansas-raised and based creative specializing in storytelling for businesses and brands across the US. Also known as M. Young Creative, she helps others communicate through digital and print content to reach and grow their audience.

What was the moment you wanted to become a photographer? I don’t recall the exact moment I wanted to be

a photographer, but I do remember seeing my mom taking photos with her film camera when I was little. My earliest memories of that are around age five. It was fascinating to observe her and what she chose to focus on.

What was your first camera? The first camera I bought with

my own money was a Canon T3i, I believe. But if we’re talking about the first camera, it was a disposable camera when I was little. I loved that there was a limit to how many photos I could take, that I wouldn’t immediately know what the photo looked like, and that most of them had streaks of light or were blurry.

Those photos were from my childhood perspective and included lots of portraits of my teddy bears.

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of it from the back of a horse while rounding up cattle in the first green blankets of spring grass. From sunsets at the Bizarre Cattle Pens to sunrises up around Strong City while outrunning bad thunderstorms and standing still in the prairie wind, I’ve been there for so many springs, winters, summers, and falls.

I don’t think I could ever truly capture how beautiful the Flint Hills are in their vastness.

What have you learned from being a photographer that you wouldn’t have learned otherwise? I’ve learned that the best photos are often

those you don’t think to take, of the everyday things considered normal. Some of my most cherished photos that wouldn’t be considered “great” are of things that occur every day, every week, or every year. The drip of coffee while it’s brewing, my mom watering a whole yard of flowers each spring, my brother, with his oil- and grease-covered hands, working on his car every spare minute he has.

What is your favorite Kansas landmark to photograph? The place

I’ll never quite be able to capture, my favorite place to visit in Kansas, is the Flint Hills. I’ve taken photos

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“I captured this image of my sweet mom as she made adjustments to her floral arrangements that she created from freshly grown blooms on the farm [Flourishing Time] in Baldwin City. This image is an heirloom to me and speaks to the years of life growing up on the farm, all of the intentionality my parents have cultivated, and the beauty my mom fosters through planting, growing and arranging flowers. This photo will carry on the feelings that this day and the many held before it—the sun painting the farm golden, as we found ourselves surrounded by flowers and fields. It’ll remind me of the magic that home in the Midwest held and still holds.”

—LIZ RUDMAN, PHOTOGRAPHER Location: Douglas County

Instagram: @lizrudman

Rudman is a traveling documentary, wedding and film photographer located in Overland Park. Since picking up her first DSLR camera at 13 years old, Rudman has grown to admire the way photography can carry on stories of those around her. Over the years, Rudman has found beauty in the truth, pain, joy and playfulness of documenting others.

She captured this image using a Canon R6 camera body and 28-70mm lens.

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IN THIS ISSUE

Scenic Overlooks

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We Love Kansas B Y

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Above The Point of Rocks in the Cimarron National Grassland allows visitors to enjoy an expansive view of the surrounding restored prairie land.

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POINT OF ROCKS Cimarron National Grassland, Elkhart

A golden eagle flies overhead as a deer scampers across wagon train ruts still seen in the prairie below Point of Rocks, the third-highest spot in Kansas. Rising above the wooded Cimarron River valley, this flat-topped outcrop of rock north of Elkhart provides scenic views of the Cimarron National Grassland and beyond to Oklahoma and Colorado.

United States Department of Agriculture Forest Service district ranger Nancy Brewer says the Grassland is Kansas’s only USDA Forest Service land. In 1938, bankrupt farmers sold these parcels of land, devastated by the Dust Bowl, to the federal government. The government eventually restored the area to prairie, later naming the acreage Cimarron National Grassland.

From the top of Point of Rocks, the panorama overlooks a sea of grass broken only by a few roadways and a winding river bed that is dry except for occasional flash floods following heavy rains.

“The Cimarron River itself is an intermittent river that goes underground for most of the grassland and comes back up downstream,” Brewer says. “But you can see the channel.”

Vast acres of seasonal blooming flowers dot the prairie grasses, along with sand sagebrush, prickly pear, and yucca. In the fall, the grasses switch to browns, reds, and oranges, along with the leaves on the cottonwood trees near the river. Swift foxes, wild turkeys, quail, lesser prairie chickens, bison, and coyotes roam the prairie, and wrens often hop among the rocks atop the Point.

“We are on a migratory route for birds, so there are a lot of people who come for bird watching during migration time,” Brewer says. “We have 300 species of birds that migrate or make their home here on the grassland.”

Point of Rocks was a navigational landmark on the Santa Fe Trail, a trade route from Independence, Missouri, to Santa Fe, New Mexico, from 1821 to 1870.

The 23-mile stretch of the Santa Fe Trail running across Cimarron National Grassland is the longest public portion of the trail. Brewer says that travelers, who camped at Middle Springs to take on water, left wagon ruts that still can be seen on the grassland, often in wide swathes.

“If it is a wagon rut, you would see there is an indentation, what they call a swall. Also, the wagons didn’t come single file, they came four to six across.”

Informational signs at the top of Point of Rocks tell of the area and its history.

620.697.4621

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ARIKAREE BREAKS LOOKOUT POINT | St. Francis

The rugged terrain and steep-sided canyons of Arikaree Breaks run 36 miles long and approximately two to three miles wide across northwestern Kansas. Covered by mainly buffalo grass, yucca plants, prickly pear cactus, and two species of sage, the land is home to more than 16 rare native plants.

A self-guided tour brochure, available at the information kiosk on U.S. Highway 36 and at several other locations in St. Francis, guides sightseers over unpaved roads to the scenic overlook about 14 miles north of the city. ccdcks.com | 785.332.3508

CEDAR BLUFF OVERLOOK | Ramson

A small sign stating “Scenic Bluff Overlook” on Trego County Road 290 west of Cedar Bluff State Park’s Page Creek Area leads to a view of mile-long, 150-feet-high chalk limestone bluffs that rise along the south side of Cedar Bluff Reservoir. Located within the Cedar Bluff Wildlife Management Area, the bluffs are home to deer, pheasant, quail, non-game birds, mammals and reptiles, including rattlesnakes. A different view of the bluffs—this one on the eastern edge —can be reached by hiking the five-mile-long Agave Ridge Nature Trail, accessible from Whitetail Camping Area of the state park.

Look for “Cedar Bluff” on ksoutdoors.com | 785.726.3212

CORONADO HEIGHTS | Lindsborg

The discovery of Spanish coins and chain mail in the area suggests Francisco Vasquez de Coronado and his men viewed the prairie from this lookout point north of Lindsborg. Named after the famous explorer, Coronado Heights rises 300 feet above the valley for a dramatic panorama of central Kansas, including farmland and nine other communities. Crews from the Works Progress Administration constructed the heights’ landmark observation point, known as the castle, from native Dakota sandstone in 1936. visitlindsborg.com/coronado-heights | 888.227.2227

FOUR-STATE LOOKOUT | White Cloud

A winding gravel road near the Missouri River leads to the top of a bluff where visitors can see Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska and Iowa on a clear day from the Four-State Lookout’s 16-foot by 24-foot W H E R E I N K A N S A S ? viewing platform. The view includes the winding Missouri River in the foreground and a patchwork of farmland beyond. The handicappedaccessible platform includes an interpretive sign about the Coronado Cedar Bluff Cimarron National Heights, Lewis and Clark Expedition Overlook, Grassland, Elkhart Lindsborg Ramson route through this area.

Arikaree Breaks Four State Lookout Point, Lookout, travelks.com | 785.595.3339 St. Francis White Cloud

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Fine Dining Kansas Campers Pecans for the

Rock Springs Ranch works to create memorable, With a combination of native and grafted sensational (and even varieties, Kansas orchards produce a full educational) experiences harvest of this favorite holiday nut around the table

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ock Springs Ranch is a Flint Hills retreat dedicated to providing kids with lifelong memories of the outdoors and summer friendships. Mindy Weixelman, the president and CEO of the Kansas 4-H Foundation, which runs the ranch, describes the 735 acres of rolling hills, creeks, and groves as a place where “youth can unplug from technology and plug into nature and people.”

The ranch offers traditional summer camp activities that have been repeated and enjoyed for almost 80 years at this location. These include canoeing, archery, horseback riding, leather tooling, traversing ropes or obstacle courses, and more. However, one large change at Rock Springs Ranch is happening at Williams Dining Michael Brock, the dining room “We are trying to steer Hall. In this two-level limestone facility, manager, notes that Rock Spring Ranch away from processed food tries to be just as intentional about the the year-round chefs and kitchen staff are adjusting menus for a healthier and do more from-scratch dining environment. Kids gather for approach to eating for all ages. meals at tables of eight with a counselor. cooking. We take kids’ Food service director Irving Ramirez Since mealtime is about sharing, caring Vega says the menu reinvents old-time unwinding, the chefs and a team of health very seriously and and favorites and introduces new dishes. For about a dozen summer kitchen staff also example, working under chef Brandon are very intentional about take seats in the dining hall, modeling Stokesbary, the kitchen team prepares how to enjoy a communal meal and the food and food choices.” conversing about the day’s activities. its own béchamel sauces for the mac and cheese. The staff also hand-breads Brock, who has worked at the —IRVING RAMIREZ VEGA chicken tenders and balances meals with ranch since 1999, is also the master of vegetables, fresh whenever possible, and ceremonies. He begins almost every a salad bar with a nice selection of greens, vegetable proteins meal with a welcome and what he terms “a little talking,” and dairy offerings. Low-sodium, allergy-free, and gluten-free which consists of “giving them the lay of the land”—practical options (including gluten-free tater tots) are also on the menu. details about the buffet line, the policies for seconds, and “We are trying to steer away from processed food and do reminders about clean-up expectations. During the hour-long more from-scratch cooking,” Vega notes. “We take kids’ health mealtimes, Brock might engage campers in a lively “call and very seriously and are very intentional about the food and response” or lead them in the lyrics and hand motions of the food choices.”

“Great Big Moose” song.

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Above Food service director Irving Ramirez Vega says his team works to bring healthful meals for summer campers and ranch visitors.

Opposite Fresh asparagus and fried chicken are two of the popular options at Rock Springs Ranch.

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WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ROCK SPRINGS RANCH Rock Springs Ranch’s history is deeply connected with the 4-H program and camps. The 4-H summer sessions bring in more than 1,000 campers and range from four to six days, with a mini two-day camp for six- and seven-year-olds. In addition hosting 4-H camps, Rock Springs Ranch opens for many other groups and events.

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Summer camps held by other youth organizations, such as KAY Clubs, FFA and faithbased youth organizations.

Specialty camps that focus on specific skills such as leadership development, horsemanship and photography.

Family camps that provide opportunities for parents and children to explore the camp offerings.

Adult retreats customdesigned for corporate groups, college or university staff, or any group looking for team-building activities.

Group meetings and conferences.

Galas and other special events.

Family reunions with accessibility to staffed recreation if desired. Guests stay in on-site cabins and cottages, choosing from those that are somewhat rustic to climate-controlled accommodations.

Field trips and staff-guided tours open to school groups or others who schedule in advance.

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Willing campers can also take part in a hands-on cooking class. Emphasizing the farm-to-table concept, the kitchen crew instructs campers on preparing meals with vegetables and herbs from Chef Brandon’s garden. The crew also trains campers in knife work, food safety, and a range of preparation and cooking skills.

“It’s a chance to expose them to career possibilities in the culinary world,” Vega says.

Stokesbary’s and Vega’s range of international culinary skills runs from French to hyper-modern fusion cooking, but they quickly point out that they can do everything from burgers to fine dining. When a group of 300 requested an elevated Midwest menu for a gala, the buffet offerings included coffeerubbed brisket, French-inspired coq au

vin and risotto with vegetarian ragu.

Rounding out the menu were dishes such as arancini appetizers (risotto that is rolled into a ball, stuffed, breaded, and gently fried), Moroccan Brussels sprout salad, nonalcoholic Spanish sangria, vegan lemon raspberry cake, petit fours and truffles.

Stokesbary notes there are tremendous differences between catering meals for a large group and serving meals for a small gathering. Large-scale cooking requires extensive forethought and planning, with sections of a meal needing to be prepared the night before. But ultimately, the meal should still be an experience.

“My wheelhouse is fine-dining,” Stokesbary notes, “and I consider what I am doing as fine-dining on a large scale. I love the challenge.”

ROCK SPRINGS RANCH

1168 Highway K157 | Junction City 785.257.3221 | rockspringsranch.org

Above Executive chef Brandon Stokesbary describes cooking for the ranch retreat as “fine-dining on a large scale.”

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ROCK SPRINGS RANCH CHICKEN PARMESAN Created by chef Brandon Stokesbary, this recipe has proven popular with both youth and adults. It can be served over mashed potatoes or pasta, or, as Stokesbary adds, “it can be turned into chicken-parm sandwiches or sliders.”

Although other seasoned breading flour could be used, Chef Brandon recommends the brand mentioned in the ingredient list.

He makes the dish allergen-free by selecting gluten-free flour and bread crumbs. A make-ahead option is included as step #7 of the instructions.

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Serves: 4

PHOTOGRAPH Adobe Stock

INGREDIENTS • ½ cup flour (Stokesbary uses Buddy Rooster Gold Dust brand) • ½ cup egg liquid (if using eggs in the shell, this is equivalent to a little less than 3 large eggs that have been blended) • 1 cup panko bread crumbs • 1 tablespoon salt • ½ tablespoon pepper • 2 tablespoons Italian seasoning • 1 tablespoon paprika • 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese • 4 (6-ounce) chicken breasts, boneless and skinless • Frying oil (Stokesbary recommends a canola blend) • 1 cup marinara sauce • ½ cup mozzarella cheese, grated INSTRUCTIONS 1.

Place flour, eggs and panko bread crumbs each in its own half-hotelsized pan (about 12x10-inches) to create a 3-part breading station.

2. Add half of the salt and pepper to the egg; the other half to the bread

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crumbs. Add Italian seasoning, paprika and grated Parmesan cheese to the bread crumbs.

Arrange a double layer of plastic wrap on a countertop and place each of the chicken breasts on top.

Add another double layer of plastic wrap over the chicken and pound with meat tenderizer until the thickest part is just even with the thinnest part, about ½-inch thick.

Avoid pounding too thin, or it will be difficult to fry.

To bread, first place each chicken breast in the flour, covering completely. Shake off any excess flour and then immerse completely in the egg. Finally, place chicken in the breadcrumb mixture, coating each breast with the crumbs—make sure no visible egg or flour is showing through the final layer.

Transfer each chicken breast to a parchment- or foil-lined sheet pan after breading.

Fry breaded chicken breasts in a deep fryer with hot oil (375℉) only until breading is golden brown.

Transfer to another parchment- or foil-lined pan and refrigerate until 1 hour before service.

Place pan of chicken in a preheated 350℉ oven until internal temperature reaches 150°F (about 20–30 minutes in a conventional oven, 10–15 minutes in a convection oven but check chicken temperature every 10 minutes to be sure).

Remove from oven and place ¼ cup marinara over each breast; sprinkle mozzarella to cover. Return to oven and heat to 165°F until the cheese has melted (about 5–8 minutes in a conventional oven; 2–3 minutes in a convection oven).

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Oktoberfests Towns across Kansas will celebrate a Bavarian tradition of beer, food, music, and family fun

Costumed dancers led traditional dances at the Abilene Oktoberfest celebration.

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rosit! to stein hoists, Bavarian bier, and schnitzel at Oktoberfests this fall in several Kansas towns. And staggered dates from September to October allow guests to attend multiple celebrations across the state.

Abilene In Abilene, the annual Oktoberfest tribute to Bavarian drinks and culture highlights German foods, music, dancing, games and merriment in the city’s Little Ike Park.

Organizer Hanna Nagely took over the reins from her mother, Heidi Anderson, who grew up in Germany and launched the festival in 2017 to keep her German mother’s beloved traditions alive and shared with others.

Much of the September 20–21 Abilene event emulates Munich’s Oktoberfest, including being held in September on the opening weekend of the 16-day-long festival in Germany. In Abilene, Friday night is the pre-party, with music, dancing, German food, and vendors; on Saturday, festivities begin at 9 a.m. with numerous activities throughout the day.

In a departure from tradition, Abilene holds its kegtapping ceremony not at the morning start of the festival but later in the day.

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“When you are at Oktoberfest, it’s an atmosphere of friendliness and camaraderie.You come together as a community and have a great time.”

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY Abilene Convention & Visitors Bureau

—HANNA NAGELY “We tap the keg at 5:30 p.m. on Saturday, the mayor or another city official gets the first taste, and we toast the party,” Nagely says. “That’s my favorite time at the festival.”

The star attraction is the Blautaler Verein Schuhplattler group from Kansas City. Dressed in authentic attire, they showcase numerous traditional German folk dances throughout the day. Their focus is the schuhplattler style of dance, which originated in Alpine villages hundreds of years ago and is characterized by men hopping, stomping, and slapping their shoes and the sides of their lederhosen. Jim Miller, the vorplatter, or dance instructor, leads the performances and provides insights into each dance’s origins and significance. Miller

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encourages audience participation and educates the audience on German attire and customs, such as singing “Ein Prozet” at the top of every hour and the Goaßlschnalzen or rhythmic whip cracking he performs.

German contests on Saturday include Masskrugstemmen or stein hoisting, in which a full stein of beer is held with one completely outstretched arm parallel to the floor for as long as possible (children hold up glasses of root beer), and Hammerschlagen, a game in which participants compete to drive nails into a wooden beam. The keg rolling competition involves teams rolling half-filled kegs through an obstacle course to the finish line. And because legend has it that cornhole, in which bags of corn are thrown through a hole in a wooden board, was invented in Germany in the 14th century, there’s a cornhole tournament.

“In Germany, there’s usually a carnival, so we have a kids’ section we have expanded to have eight or nine bounce houses this year and a barrel train,” Nagely says. “There are things going on all day long for everyone, for all ages. It’s a familyfriendly, free event.”

And, of course, there is beer.

Servers dressed in traditional dirndls (dresses) pour beer into souvenir steins. Nagely says the beer on tap for the festival will be from the Paulaner Brewery in Munich, which also provides beer for the event in Germany.

“We are going to have a beertasting tent provided by the Walnut River Brewing Company in El Dorado,” says Nagely, adding the festival expands every year with new activities. “We also are creating our own Abilene Oktoberfest beer this year, a Dunkel and a Weizenbock.”

Schnitzel, bratwurst, bierocks, currywurst and American foods fill vendors’ menus, with diners seated family-style at long rows of tables covered in checked tablecloths.

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“When you are at Oktoberfest, it’s an atmosphere of friendliness and camaraderie,” Nagely says. “You come together as a community and have a great time.”

abileneoktoberfest.com | facebook. com/abileneoktoberfest September 20–21

Hays Oktoberfest began in Hays over 50 years ago, not as a Bavarian tradition but to preserve and honor the history of the Volga German immigrants who founded several small villages near Hays and around Ellis County.

“They came over from the Volga Valley in Russia and settled here because the landscape and climate in this region were the closest to what was in the Volga Valley,” says Emily Knowles, the city’s Oktoberfest director. “Their descendants started Oktoberfest, and then it transformed and morphed into this event that we have now.”

This year’s free festival, October 4–5, opens with an actor portraying Russian czarina Catherine the Great telling a story about her former subjects leaving the Volga Valley for Ellis County. Then, as tradition dictates, the keg is tapped, the German song “Ein Prozit” is sung, and a bell is rung to signal that beer may now be served.

Three bands, at least one of which plays German polkas, perform daily. Hays Community Theatre members also come in costume, dance and interact with people.

Guests can compete in a steinholding contest and the Deutsch Hops Contest, which Knowles describes as “an obstacle course where they run with a full beer, and whoever has the most beer in the cup wins the big prize.”

Other activities include Highstriker, or Hau-den-Lukas, which tests the strength of a contestant who swings a hammer with enough force to raise a lever to ring the bell at the top of the tower. There’s also a mug-toss contest and a beer puppeteer

Above (from top) Activities at the Abilene Oktoberfest include dancing, beer rolling, and enjoying the beer garden.

Opposite The Hays Oktoberfest features traditional Bavarian costumes and games, but is also a tribute to the region’s Volga German heritage.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY (FROM BOTTOM LEFT) Abilene Convention & Visitors Bureau (3), Hays Convention & Visitors Bureau (2)

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challenge that requires using puppet strings to maneuver a cup of beer to the mouth without spilling a drop, she says.

On Saturday, events become more family-focused. There is a cornhole tournament and the children’s area opens with games such as a pumpkin roll, pumpkin pass, German freeze, bounce houses and other entertainment.

According to Knowles, most food options are provided by nonprofits in Hays that have created their own German specialties over the years, such as a German skillet of potatoes, sausage, and onions, fried bologna sandwiches, bierocks, brats, and green bean dumpling soup.

The World’s Largest Bierock will also be unveiled, and ticket holders will get a sample of the giant concoction.

“There’s food and entertainment and beer,” Knowles says, “all the things you need for a good time.” oktoberfesthays.com | oktoberfesthays@gmail.com

Junction City Bring your best yodeling calls to Junction City’s Oktoberfest on October 4–5. In addition to the yodeling contest, the festival features games such as Masskrugstemmen, Hammerschlagen, and Masskrugtragen (carrying beer steins for 40 meters without spilling). There also will be a

lederhosen and dirndl best-dressed contest, a live polka band, a fire show, vendors, and a beer garden. junctioncityoktoberfest.com

Seneca Celebrating the German heritage of Nemaha County, Seneca’s October 12 Oktoberfest will begin with a craft fair downtown. Ticket holders for the beer-tasting tent later in the day will receive a commemorative taster mug and 10 samples of craft beers from various breweries. Food and live music end the evening hosted by the Seneca Area Chamber and Downtown Impact. comeseeseneca.com | 785.336.1313

Stafford The Stafford Oktoberfest opens on October 5 with traditional German games, including stein holding and keg throwing.

There also will be a parade, magician, cornhole tournament, duck races, goat roping, street dance, inflatables, carnival games, beer garden, and craft and food vendors. Pre-event activities on Friday night will include musical bingo, food vendors and a beer garden. oktoberfeststaffordks.com | 620.234.5011

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Authentically

WISE

A Wichita track and field coach has won an online following by creating videos of slowtravel tours through less populated towns in Kansas and across the nation

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ohn Wise stops the car and gets out in what is technically Pleasanton, just off Highway 69 in the southeast corner of the state.

But to get to this exact spot of Pleasanton, he had to drive about seven miles north of the main part of town, exit east to Kansas 52, and then go back south on Valley Road for about a mile.

This is the part of Pleasanton that isn’t as easily accessed. It’s the old, historic part of the city with a trading post, a museum, and nobody else around.

It’s exactly John Wise’s type of place.

For the past four years, this Wichita resident has been traveling around Kansas and other states to film ghost towns, nearly lost towns, rural communities and other attractions off the main roads. He began his journeys to fill his spare time during the pandemic but continues them as a YouTube tour guide with more than 26,000 subscribers to his “Travel with a Wise Guy” channel of over 365 videos.

Working with his phone, a drone, and—only recently—a Go-Pro camera, Wise creates low-key videos where he brings viewers along to explore remains of once-bustling towns or walk the streets of small communities.

Sometimes, he’ll visit with a local or tour a site, sharing what he learns about the location.

“I don’t claim to be an expert,” Wise explains. “I’m more of a fan of where I’m going.”

Wise says his affinity for exploring rural areas is rooted in growing up in Winchester, Ohio, a place unfamiliar to most people. He usually explains it as a small farm area in southwestern Ohio, 45 miles east of Cincinnati, close to the Kentucky border. Like many of the small communities that Wise now likes to visit, Winchester is a town where Google street view decided it didn’t need to run its camera car for long. The street view map shows only Main Street, Tri-County Road, and a few other outlets that box in the Family Dollar store and the Presbyterian church.

Above and Opposite John Wise tours Pleasanton as part of his ongoing video channel series dedicated to exploring small towns and back roads.

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A WISE GUY PRIMER Wise remained in Ohio for the first 30 years of his life, first as a student and then as a track coach before he took a job with Wichita State University, where he continues as the university’s associate director of track and field. That’s a job that requires a lot of travel for recruitment and competition, travel that Wise says he didn’t realize he valued so much until the 2020 lockdown canceled all his trips.

“You get used to a rhythm of traveling when you’ve done it for decades,” Wise explains, “so I had to get out.”

So he took his own trips, taking videos with his camera phone. Soon, he realized he was building an entire YouTube channel around them and packaging some of his trips into themes. He created the video “10 Smallest Towns in Kansas” over the course of a weekend, and his channel immediately grew in popularity. The video featured communities such as Hollenberg, located near an original stop on the Pony Express, Frederick, which has a fascinating history of surprising dissolution challenges, and the smallest town, Waldron, with an official population of 9, according to the 2020 census.

The film was invited to the No Coast Film Fest in Emporia and was designated an “Official Selection.”

“It was just for fun and for something to do,” Wise explains. “I don’t make videos to chase audiences, but when you make videos about small towns and ghost towns or rural places, you gradually gain fans of the genre.

You pick up followers who used to live there or had a grandfather or ancestors who used

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to live there. You begin to see people with connections to the area leaving comments on your videos.”

If you watch one of John Wise’s tour videos, the YouTube algorithms will provide you with suggestions for similar videos across America or even the globe. There’s an entire genre of these solo or couples’ travel vlogs similar to Wise’s low-key approach.

“YouTube has super-popular, highly produced videos by teams that are producing what is basically a show,” Wise notes, “and then there are people like me who are doing it without much fanfare—those are the ones I like. They usually talk about history, geography, and they’re amateur—but not in a negative way. They’re just not big-budget productions. I think those videos are often very popular because they are authentic.”

Wise says part of his authenticity is not to plan too much for a trip. He will map out where he is going, but he leaves room for random stops, exploration, and being surprised by what he finds.

“I have to prepare hotel stops ahead of time for long trips,” Wise says, “but I try to come into an area, read about it while I’m there and then read again after I have explored the area. I like discovering stuff and not being overly prepared.”

Sometimes, Wise’s tours are shaped by his encounters. He might run into local residents who are excited to hear about his project and go above and beyond to make sure he has everything he needs to share their town’s story. In his video on Mildred, Wise was invited to join the monthly community dance. Here, traveling through Linn County and stopping at Pleasanton, the director of the Trading Post museum welcomes Wise and gives him a tour of the property, passionately delving into the details of the town’s past and sharing hopeful plans for the future.

“The people I meet are as good and nice as anywhere,” Wise explains after the trip.

“They are very welcoming and proud of their communities, but maybe aren’t selfpromoting. Maybe some towns miss out on a lot of visitors because they aren’t selfpromoting, but that is also part of the charm of those towns—they are authentic.”

John Wise has more than 365 travel videos, with at least 70 devoted exclusively to Kansas locations. Here’s a suggestion for five John Wise videos to begin your virtual travels with him.

Go online to youtube.com/@ TravelwithaWiseguy, then enter these titles into the channel search bar.

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“10 Smallest Towns of Kansas” – The weekend road trip video that started Wise’s popularity.

“US 166: The Route 66 Spur, Part Two” – A recent video where Wise travels 164 miles along Route 66’s less-famous sister, along the southeastern border of Kansas from Coffeyville to South Haven “14 Kansas Ghost Towns: Greenwood County, Part One” – An exploration of the east-central Kansas county that grew from an oil boom and then steadily lost population and communities to the present day.

“US Road Trip 50, Days 2–3: Western Kansas” – Following US Highway 50 out to California, Wise spends two days on the road from Newton to Coolidge with stops at locations such as Kinsley, whose signpost proclaims it is 1,561 miles from San Francisco and 1,561 miles from New York City.

“10 Smallest Towns in Texas” – Wise’s road trip to the 10 smallest incorporated towns of Texas includes trips to the nearly abandoned desert landscape of the southwestern Texas town of Toyah to the wave-soaked Gulf of Mexico shoreline of Quintana that lost out to nearby Galveston in becoming a large port city.

Above Wise began his tours during the pandemic, when his regular schedule of track meets and recruiting trips were cancelled.

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With 50 years and some 25,000 cumulative miles, Bike Across Kansas remains one of the best, most challenging, and most social ways to explore Kansas

This summer, on June 8, some 700 cyclists set off from the Colorado border on State Highway 96 to bike a 500-mile route through the state, ending at Atchison on June 15. Known as Bike Across Kansas (BAK), the annual event is now in its 50th year. It has become a celebratory reunion of cycling enthusiasts and one of the most engaging ways to see the landscape and selected communities of Kansas.

“It’s something for all ages,” says BAK executive director Bryan Toben. “It’s a family thing, and it challenges you. There are days where it’s a hundred degrees of wind blowing in your face in the middle of Kansas, but it’s something that we encourage families to get engaged in.”

Toben first completed the tour as a 12-year-old in 1989. This year, the youngest registered rider is 7. On the other end of the age spectrum, bikers in their mid-80s have completed the course, and several dozen seniors are expected to join this year.

While some die-hard cyclists race the tour, Toben notes BAK isn’t created for elite athletes hoping to clock a fast time from point A to point B. “That’s the thing people need to understand—it’s a tour,” Toben says. “This is not a race across Kansas. We want you to stop and smell the roses and the sunflowers.”

After each day’s ride, entertainment, cultural events, concerts and more are planned in the nine host towns. BAK is designed to support the Kansas communities that open their doors to the 700 cyclists, plus the support crews who travel with them.

The exact BAK route varies from year to year, but the event traditionally travels eastward, beginning at the Colorado border. This year’s route stopped overnight in Tribune, Scott City, Ness City, Hoisington, Lincoln, Concordia, Frankfort, and Atchison. Day stops include Leoti, Dighton, La Crosse, Ellsworth, Minneapolis, Barnes, and Corning.

“Once we find a route, we go out and meet with all the communities, we tour the schools, and we figure out what our lunch stops are between each,” Toben says.

Many communities host fundraiser lunches, Toben explains, “and we come in with [hundreds of] people, and they’re raising money for a new softball field or a museum or a library or whatever.

And part of our goal is not only to see the beautiful state of Kansas but to contribute to the economic development of every one of these communities that we visit.”

—Haines Eason

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JUNE 9

Drove to Elkhart today. It’s a long haul from Manhattan.

Interesting to watch the landscape change as we wandered west along I-70. I’ve driven this stretch of highway probably hundreds of times. As a kid, I grew up in Abilene and never really noticed the gradual transition from the rugged Flint Hills where I live now, through the croplands where I grew up, and into the Smoky Hills as we continued to drive west.

We joined the actual BAK route at Kinsley, where we got onto US 50 and followed the route in reverse to Elkhart.

I found a tent spot that wasn’t taken near the school buildings, unloaded my bike and gear and said goodbye to my wife so she could start the five-hour drive back home. It’s hard to put into words how much I appreciate her support in doing these things.

After I was settled, I rode to the Colorado border and back.

I knew I would be hauling my camera gear all week, so I took this one chance to leave it behind and enjoy the ride. I love the Cimarron National Grassland. I haven’t been there in a couple years, but I’m always amazed by its vastness. It’s easy to zoom by it in a few minutes when you’re in a car, but when you’re pedaling a bike, you look off into the distance, see the Point of Rocks, and understand why it was a landmark used by folks navigating the Santa Fe Trail.

I rode pretty hard on the way out with Shei Rajput, someone I recognized on the road from having shot some video of him at an event in 2022. We went to the border, and I took a picture of him with his bike by the sign, and he did the same for me. Then we rode back together as storms and lightning gathered in the skies.

AN OPTIONAL RIDE DAY.

The storm woke me up cold at 3 a.m., and then a cacophony of house sparrows, robins, orchard orioles and mockingbirds woke me up for good at 5:45 a.m. By this time, other campers were packing their tents and gear and getting ready for the ride. I wandered around with my camera, taking pictures of people preparing and departing until I realized I was one of the only riders left in camp. I had a quick breakfast, packed my gear and got on the road. It’s not a race.

The ride today was challenging. I felt the weight of the camera gear in the trailer I was pulling.

But the weight reminded me to be present in the moment. I watched the landscape roll by and listened to meadowlarks singing. And then there were the box turtles; unfortunately, many had been hit on the highway. I stopped to usher four of them safely across US 56. I gained a new MORE respect for our state reptile because if I felt the elevation, they INFORMATION were probably even more so. Today’s journey of 63.7 miles came Learn more about the with 538 feet of climbing but overall 1,164, elevation loss (meaning Biking Across Kansas Tour I ended the day 626 feet lower than I started, but I still had to ride at bak.org. The group’s my bike 538 feet up). official social media post At the overnight Satanta stop, riders played games and will have updates from this did puzzles while they rested. The local 4-H club, the Rolla Allyear’s journey.

Arounders, had set up a fundraiser stand. I ate a couple of their granola bars and gratefully shoved some cash into the jar.

ROUTE Elkhart to Satanta 63.7 miles with 538 feet of climb

PHOTOGRAPHER AND AVID BICYCLIST DAVID MAYES traveled the 539-mile route of 2023 Bike Across Kansas, taking photos and writing daily journal entries for KANSAS! magazine.

Here are a portion of those photos and excerpts from his journal.

SATURDAY

JUNE 10

ROUTE Colorado border to Elkhart 17.4 miles 284 feet of climb COUNTIES Morton CITIES Elkhart WEATHER Upper 80s and not much wind. Stormy late in the day.

COUNTIES Morton, Stevens, plus tiny corners of Seward and Haskell CITIES Elkhart, Wilburton, Rolla, Hugoton, Moscow and Satanta WEATHER Stormy overnight, mid-80s during the day with sunny skies and light winds. A lovely day for a ride.

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At the evening’s staff/volunteer meeting, we learned that the ashes of a long-time BAK rider Bob Helfrich would be spread at the cemetery in Spearville, where he grew up and where we would stop the next night.

A text asked for volunteers to sing at the cemetery, and some 20 people showed up to prepare four-part harmony songs in tribute to Helfrich. It brought tears to my eyes.

On the first night, I also met several first-time riders enjoying the ride after day one. I also met a grandfather, son and grandson riding together and a father and daughter sharing a piece of pie after their first leg of the journey together.

ROUTE Satanta to Spearville, 76.6 miles 390 feet of climb COUNTIES Haskell, Gray, Ford.

CITIES Sublette, Montezuma, Ensign, Dodge City, Wright, Spearville.

WEATHER Windy and stormy overnight, mid-70s during the day with alternating sunshine and clouds and a big headwind all day. Challenging day to ride.

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At 1 a.m., a big wind lashed across my tent. Two hours later, my tent folded down on me, so I tore it down and moved into the hallway of Satanta High School and got a bit over two hours more sleep. I woke up tired and out of sorts. I opted to ride along with BAK volunteers to photograph the ride from a different perspective. It was the right choice. After getting my stuff together and stowing my bike on the transport truck, I hopped in with Crystal Jensen, a volunteer staff member who drives the water truck and travels to the designated support stops to refill all the water coolers. She’s ridden in BAK since she was a teenager and then became a volunteer after she had her first child. She’ll often drive the truck on parallel roads to help minimize the traffic the riders must deal with, but when she is on the route, she shouts encouragement to the riders and will stop to help anyone with a problem.

Coming into Montezuma, I met the husband-and-wife owners of Phoenix Bicycle Worx, a bike production shop right on the route, and they happily showed off their bikes and made fresh coffee for riders. Also in Montezuma, there was a small bike shop whose owner was trying to figure out how to jury-rig a fix for a BAK rider whose cleat had ripped off his shoe. A tiny town of less than 1,000 people with a bike production facility and a bike shop. Pretty cool.

That night, Bob Helfrich’s ashes were spread at the cemetery. With the blessing of his wife, Kat, and son, Andrew, I took photos of the service and the return of his ashes to the soil he grew up on. It was a moving moment.

After the ceremony, I stopped by the local Knights of Columbus hall, where they were raising money with a beer garden. Bratwurst fresh off the grill, chips and pie on the menu. Just right after a long day.

S U N D A Y

JUNE 11

M O N D A Y

JUNE 12

After the previous night’s storm, I slept in the designated indoor facilities for the rest of the week. Being inside would mean less time spent setting up and taking down the tent and having more protection for my gear. Plus, air conditioning. And a roof.

I slept very well, waking up at 5 a.m. for oats and coffee and not bothered by the sprinkles gathering outside.

The light mist cleared up by the time I reached Kinsley, 20 miles from our start point.

It was college jersey day on the trail, so I took photographs of many riders in K-State, KU and Wichita State jerseys. I heard that Washburn and Emporia State kits were on the road, but I didn’t find them.

I had a nice chat with K-State grad Susan Brown, who played volleyball for the Wildcats from 1977 to 1980. She’s been teaching health and wellness on the faculty at Johnson County Community College for 40 years. Though several of her colleagues have recently retired, she said she’s shooting for 50 years of teaching.

There are a lot of people of retirement age or older on the ride. Some multi-generation families ride together. The ride isn’t only for the young.

Coming into Lewis, I met local retiree Ron Gruber. He farmed in Iowa before moving to Lewis to work at the Co-Op, which he eventually managed for 25 years. “You’re halfway between Omar and Belpre,” he said with a laugh, adding that Omar had ceased to exist as a town in the last century.

In Lewis, a group of local women worked hard to make sure all the riders were fed lunch in the community hall—sandwiches and chips and fruit. The team in the kitchen was making special-order sandwiches for the riders with special dietary needs. BAK does a pretty good job of making sure that the offerings in each town include options for vegan riders.

Seeing lots of wheat fields that just didn’t make it this year. The corn looks a little better since the spring rains, but you appreciate even more how essential water is after biking on the roads all day.

When I ran into fellow bikers and friends Mike Minihan and his sister, Erin, they gave me a bottle of cold water right from their cooler.

After drinking lukewarm bikebottle water all day, it seemed There are a lot of like the best thing I’d tasted.

I set up for the night at people of retirement Stafford High School, enjoyed age or older on the ride. a good chicken salad wrap, and Some multi-generation wandered over to the Nora E. families ride together.

Larabee Memorial Library for The ride isn’t only for pie and ice cream. It’s a cool old building, and many riders were the young. there eating and enjoying the lovely stained-glass window with a portrait of the library’s namesake.

The BAK staff put together the route guide, which tells about places like this and gives historical notes about the counties and towns we ride through. It’s a fantastic resource.

ROUTE Spearville to Stafford 65.6 miles 239 feet of climb.

COUNTIES Ford, Edwards, and Stafford CITIES Spearville, Offerle, Kinsley, Lewis, Delpre, Macksville, Stafford WEATHER Stormy again overnight. A great day for a ride with temperatures in the 70s. Started early with a light rain and cleared throughout the day with light winds.

“

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T U E S D A Y

JUNE 13

ROUTE Stafford to Newton 100.8 miles with 1,017 feet climb and 1,344 feet of elevation loss.

COUNTIES Stafford, Reno, and Harvey CITIES Stafford, Sylvia, Plevna, Abbyville, Partridge, Elmer, Haven, Mt. Hope, Bentley, Halstead, Hesston, and Newton WEATHER A beautiful sunny day with light winds and temperatures that topped out in the low 80s.

At breakfast this morning, I met Ruth White from Hesston and Braden Shelman from Salida, Colorado. They have been coming to BAK for decades and have developed several BAK friendships over the years. Shelman told me the story of a friend who enjoyed the event specifically for the camaraderie and said, “Riding the bike is the worst part about BAK.” Our breakfast is at the senior center, once the Brinkman Hotel, which saw its heyday in the first half of the last century. Some framed copies on the wall give a brief history of the hotel and a rundown of a Thanksgiving dinner menu from 1907, a multicourse feast including boiled elk tongue, baked turkey, potatoes whipped in cream, transparent pie and Lipton Ceylon Tea, all for 50 cents.

The scenery changed a lot today as we entered the edge of the Arkansas River lowlands.

Trees made a significant appearance, and as we moved past Stafford, we saw some ripening wheat fields and lots of green corn.

In Partridge, the church put on a support stop with homemade pie, cinnamon rolls and sweet mint tea. The pie was outstanding. Lots of riders took photos beside an amazing sculpture created from old bicycles by local artist Jay Yoder.

I showered, did my laundry (in a dry bag in the shower) and then caught the shuttle bus downtown, where I found Taco Ana’s food truck and ate four street tacos. I could have eaten 10.

Got back on the bus and headed back to the high school, where the Newton High School Azteca Dance Group treated us to a dance performance. We ate a second supper, a big pulled pork sandwich and salad from the NHS FFA club. A group of Newton residents also treated us to the best homemade berry pie I had ever tasted.

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I’m writing a lot about eating, aren’t I? What’s funny is I don’t usually eat big meals while on the bike. I snack and then eat a lot after. But biking makes you hungry.

According to my tracker, I burned 3,700 calories on the day’s 100-mile ride alone.

TO POWER ME THROUGH THAT, I DRANK AND ATE THE FOLLOWING:

• • • • • •

Cup of coffee A big bowl of oatmeal with brown sugar, dried fruit, nuts and a big spoonful of almond butter.

A banana with almond butter An apple with almond butter Berry pie Sweet mint tea

• • • • • • •

An energy bar A banana 4 street tacos A handful of pickles 2 bags of potato chips A big pulled pork sandwich and salad A large jerky bar

• •

An energy bar An energy bar with a huge gob of almond butter

I estimate that this was right around 4,000 calories for the day. Good food, and plenty of it, is essential.

I’ve done many 100+ mile rides and never felt so good as I did after this one. Must have been that pie.

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WEDNESDAY

JUNE 14

ROUTE Newton to Eureka 77.9 miles with 1,854 feet climb and 2,190 feet of elevation loss.

COUNTIES Harvey, Butler, and Greenwood CITIES Newton, Elbing, Cassoday, Rosalia, Reece, and Eureka WEATHER Cloudy with highs in the 80s and light winds.

It stormed again overnight and was still raining when I woke at 5 a.m. I delayed heading off until 8 a.m., noting that the clouds made for lovely skies and perfect photography conditions.

We’re now in territory where everything seems lush and green. It’s just a day’s ride difference, but the cornfields along the route seem much further along than the ones we saw yesterday. It’s amazing to watch the changes occur. They sort of sneak up on you when you’re riding along at 15 mph.

We are also encountering more hills. Today had 1,881 feet of climbing, whereas the first five days had a total combined 1,934 feet of climb.

The small towns along the route occur less frequently here than they do in Western Kansas, meaning the riders have to watch out for one another a bit more. Not far into the ride today, I stopped to check on and, to be fair, photograph Will Hanlen from Leavenworth. He was wrestling with a flat tire in the ditch. When a rider is stopped with a problem, other riders call out to make sure they have the tools and resources they need to get back on the road and will stop to help. In this case, two BAK volunteers who happened to be on the route, Thom and Bryan Toben, lent a hand. The tailgate of their truck was a nice spot to work on the wheel, and Hanlen was back on the road a short time later.

AT THE OVERNIGHT STOP IN EUREKA, I WENT BACK DOWNTOWN AFTER A SHOWER AND DID ALL THE LITTLE CHORES I NEED TO DO EVERY DAY:

• • • • • ROUTE Eureka to Chanute, 62.1 miles with 1,499 feet climb and 1,663 feet of elevation loss COUNTIES Greenwood, Woodson, Wilson, and Neosho CITIES Eureka, Neal, Toronto, Coyville, Benedict, Roper, and Chanute WEATHER Clear skies with start in the 60s and highs in the 80s. Light winds again.

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Charge my bike computer Charge my bike lights Make sure I have a clean kit to wear the next day Wash the day’s kit and hang it out to dry Make sure my bed is set up and my things are relatively organized

At our meeting that night, director Stefanie Weaver asked everyone to stand and remain standing if they had done 10, 15, etc., BAK events.

When she got to 35 BAK events, only three people were standing. One of those riders, David Blair of Wichita, spoke about the special connections made on BAK and how meaningful it’s been for him.

Today’s route takes us over some hills in the Osage Cuestas region and into the very north edge of the Chautauqua Hills. I stopped along the way to shoot some pretty stuff. The hardest part of BAK might be that, as a photographer, I could stop constantly because there’s so much natural beauty and so many interesting people and stories along this route just waiting to be discovered.

In Chanute, I joined some riders who stopped to chat and sing songs with Credo Senior Living Center residents. At the high school where we stayed that night, I listened to local bluegrass musician Tim Chapman play his guitar and saw a rider on a camping chair sound asleep with a book in his lap in the shade. It’s been a long week, and everyone is tired.

THURSDAY

JUNE 15

FITNESS LEVEL Bike Across Kansas prides itself on accommodating many levels of bikers and welcoming many first-time riders each year. That said, biking 500 miles over nine days does require stamina.

Organizers strongly suggest that a cyclist should be able to cover at least 30 miles in three hours and ride at least 50 to 80 miles a day, including on hills and against strong headwinds. BAK releases a recommended minimum-mile training program that culminates with riders reaching a weekly total of 169 miles with two weeks before the event.

Learning to ride safely with a group on shared roads and joining a local bicycle club are highly recommended.

FRIDAY

JUNE 16

ROUTE Chanute to Garnett 50.7 miles with 1,067 feet climb and 938 feet of elevation loss COUNTIES Neosho, Allen, and Anderson CITIES Chanute, Humboldt, Bassett, Iola, Colony, Lone Elm, and Garnett WEATHER Started the day with dramatic partly cloudy skies and gradually cleared.

Early temps in the 60s and climbing to the upper 80s.

Humidity at 69%

Several times while I was out early this morning working the good light as riders were loading luggage and getting their bikes ready, I heard some variation of “I’m glad it’s a short day today.” There were two routes today, one all paved and 57 miles. The second caught part of the Prairie Spirit Trail was 51 miles. So, 50+ miles is short in BAK terms.

I had planned to set up for drone shots at a cool metal bridge about 8 miles north of Chanute.

It was magic. I spent some time here photographing riders crossing the bridge with my regular camera and my drone. The roads are narrower and windier here, but the local traffic is patient for the most part.

A few more miles up the road in Humboldt, locals turned out to cheer the riders on the town square. From Humboldt, I took the road route to Iola and then hopped onto the Prairie Spirit Trail, where I found shade and the song of dickcissels. It was also really nice to not have to worry about cars for a few hours.

At an access point on the Prairie Spirit Trail, I came across Michael and Jeanna Church, who are from Carlyle and had come out to hand out cold bottles of water to the riders. They’ve lived in the area for nearly 40 years and can remember when the trail was still a railroad.

“To me, this is the prettiest two and a half miles of the trail,” Michael said.

At Garnett, the Friends of the Prairie Spirit Trail were handing out goodies.

The number of people who were out today to encourage BAK riders with food, drink, and words of encouragement was impressive.

Our stop that night was Anderson County High School, where I wandered around and shot some pictures of the beddings and the enormous pile of chargers attached to all sorts of things: bike computers, phones, watches, Bluetooth speakers, helmets with built-in lights, e-bike batteries, powered bed inflators, and more. The gyms are interesting: it generally looks like a small army has moved in, set up camp, and hung out its brightly colored laundry.

We held the last evening meeting for all participants at the Anderson County Courthouse Square. The big red courthouse made a nice backdrop as the staff talked about BAK and congratulated everyone on making it so far. At the end, everyone stood holding hands or arm in arm and sang “Home on the Range” as the sun set. I zeroed in on a few people I’d run into throughout the week and took a nice picture. There was Amy Delamaide, who grew up in Wichita but now lives in Washington DC; Helen Glover, who traveled to Kansas from the United Kingdom to ride across the Sunflower State; and Robert Nowlin, from Kansas City, who rode his first 100mile trek this week. The evening was also a little sad as Stefanie Weaver said goodbye as director.

She retired from the post at the end of the ride and was replaced by Bryan Toben, that same volunteer I had met earlier in the week as he helped a rider patch a tire along the route.

SATURDAY

ROUTE Garnett to border 44.1 miles with 1,743 feet climb COUNTIES Anderson and Linn CITIES Garnett and Pleasanton WEATHER Partly cloudy skies with temperatures creeping into the upper 80s.

Discover

JUNE 17

The final push. There’s a different energy today. People are tired but excited to wrap up the ride. It’s a weird feeling of being ready to be done and off the bike but not wanting it to end.

The route is relatively short but a bit hilly. We ride from Garnett into Pleasanton and through town then follow some twists and turns through crop fields and on to the border of Missouri. A banner has been set up, and riders take turns taking pictures of each other in front of it. Some hoist their bikes overhead in triumph. Some just lean on the bike, happy to be finished. But we’re not completely finished. Another few miles back to Pleasanton and the high school for a shower and a last meal together before we separate and head back to where we came from.

Lots of riders gathered for a final group photo, and I was honored to shoot it. The weather and the miles show up in the tanned faces of the riders. Though most are tired and ready for a big sleep in our own beds, most of us have a twinkle in our eyes.

“

Though most are tired and ready for a big sleep in our own beds, most of us have a twinkle in our eyes.

”

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Kansas’ bigge st barn at the Prairie Museum of Art & History

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scaping daily routines is essential for many people, particularly during the sweltering summer months. Across urban and rural towns in Kansas, numerous locales offer rich retreat sites. Check out these destinations that focus on fostering community well-being and offer affordable selfcare practices to uplift the mind, body and spirit.

“Local interests in nature, history and antiquing allow guests to unplug from city life, reconnect with one another, and enjoy a slower pace of living.”

– Ta m m y E n s e y –

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Historic Elgin Hotel with Jeremy & Tammy Ensey Featured as a boutique hotel on the National Register of Historic Places, the Elgin creates a space to rest, relax and reconnect in an atmosphere that blends the nostalgia of earlier eras with the luxuries of today.

“The Elgin has a full-service restaurant and bar, five living rooms, an outdoor veranda, a fitness center and a game lounge complementing 12 unique suites to create an exceptional getaway,” says owner Tammy Ensey. Tammy’s husband and co-owner, Jeremy, echoes this sentiment.

Located in the Flint Hills, just 50 miles northeast of Wichita, the hotel exudes the elegance of the 1800s while offering overnight stays, a full-service restaurant, small library, 12 uniquely decorated suites, and both indoor and outdoor venues.

“We blend the highest-quality amenities to be Kansas’ most sought-after vacation destination,” Tammy says.

“Local interests in nature, history and antiquing allow guests to unplug from city life, reconnect with one another, and enjoy a slower pace of living.”

Both having grown up in Kansas, the Enseys relocated to Marion in 2013 for Jeremy’s role as chief nursing officer and later as the chief executive officer at St. Luke’s Hospital.

Tammy’s professional background is in human resources and information technology. She started a business called Vacation Getaway while she and Jeremy raised three children: Peyton, Paige and Abree.

One of the primary bathrooms is uniquely decorated and a favorite for newlyweds staying overnight.

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Level up to luxury The Elgin went up for sale in 2015. The Enseys sought to leverage Tammy’s business and travel experience. Their mission was to create a remarkable and memorable experience by sharing a unique destination and serving guests in a way that exceeds their expectations.

“We checked it out and when we walked through the doors, our mouths fell open,” Tammy says. “We immediately decided we had to reopen it as a hotel, which is what it was originally designed to be in 1886. It took a while for me to convince my husband and get all the numbers right.”

The hotel was constructed with local limestone in an “L” shape with a shorter east-west side and a longer northsouth side.

“It was magnificent for the time period. With two railroad lines crossing the community, [the people of] Marion knew that a magnificent hotel would encourage people to stay,” Tammy says.

The Elgin operated as a hotel until the 1960s. It sat empty for many years and was almost torn down. It was renovated into apartments and then nominated and accepted to the National Register of Historic Places. In 2006, it was picked up again for renovations before the Enseys’ purchase.

Parlor 1886, the hotel’s full-service restaurant and bar, is slated to reopen in June. Chefs Luis and Alicia Pena will lead the operation.

The Penas intend to create a delightful culinary experience for guests. The fine-dining restaurant will serve breakfast from 8 to 11 a.m. and dinner from 5 to 9 p.m., Thursday to Monday.

The Enseys gave the Elgin a fresh look, with the 12 themed suites, a blend of new and antique furniture, and modern comforts to blend today’s amenities with the nostalgia of the past.

“One of the most special places is the staircase with the monumental chandelier, as well as the original veranda in the front,” Tammy says. “A game lounge is housed in a separate building that allows for a space for late-night parties. The courtyard and ballroom host everything from weddings to business meetings.”

Jennifer McDonald is the current hotel manager, and she is known for her excellent guest service.

“All of our guests love and know Jennifer,” Tammy says.

“The hospitality and service are second to none. We work to make everyone a part of our Elgin family.”

Top Herbal spa treatments line the shelves.

Bottom Guests enjoy the newly opened Cloud Room– a three station circuit designed to balance the whole body.

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Mud & Lotus with Shahida Spann-Ryan Mud & Lotus offers a calming sanctuary hidden in downtown Lawrence. Fueled by her love for herbal medicine, adventure and hot springs, Shahida Spann-Ryan’s experience with traditional Chinese medicine enriches her mission to introduce holistic health care.

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In Praise of Mystery

Founded by Spann-Ryan, the center merges holistic health care with the rejuvenating experiences of a soaking tub and sauna garden and a range of spa treatments that draw inspiration from her extensive background in Traditional Chinese Medicine and a deep appreciation for holistic healing practices.

Spann-Ryan grew up in Manhattan and then lived in Lawrence for a few years.

“I went to California for grad school and lived there for 12 years,” she says. “I fell in love with hot springs. It was so healing to connect with nature and soak in the mineral water.”

Spann-Ryan studied with renowned Buddhist monk Thích Nhất Hạnh at a retreat in southern California.

“One favorite teaching: ‘Without the mud, there is no lotus.’ He’s speaking to the suffering and struggle in life that is the metaphorical compost …, the basis of our ability to evolve to become the people we’re meant to be, and find the treasures of life,” she says.

She missed the sauna and hot tub experiences when she moved back to Lawrence, so she decided to open her own version of a Midwestern hot springs experience one block east of Massachusetts St., near the corner of 9th and New Hampshire.

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Tranquil and urban sanctuary “I built out a zen garden with a cedar hot tub and bromine and minerals to keep the water clean,” Spann-Ryan says.

“The garden also has a barrel cedar near-infrared sauna— so guests rent out the whole garden for a short time for a getaway or parties. It’s so relaxing and detoxifying.”

Making self-care social with friends, Mud & Lotus is popular as a fun date night or girls getaway.

The unique blend of luxury self-care and community

54 Above Spann-Ryan invites guests to relax in the soaking tub and sauna.

wellness offers affordable, holistic health practices with indulgent experiences.

“We have people driving in from all over to join us—it’s a fun destination. It’s also so good for your body,” she says. “Heat therapy has been shown to lower cortisol, improve circulation, release muscle tension and soothe pain. There are so many health benefits as well as relaxation and connection.”

If you don’t

“People are interested in taking better care of themselves.

People come in with stress and pain, and we try to transform it all. There’s mindfulness put into the business with a lot of intention and love.”

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Spann-Ryan also opened Lawrence Acupuncture in 2014.

“I was seeing so much demand for more services,” Spann-Ryan says. “People are interested in taking better care of themselves. People come in with stress and pain, and we try to transform it all. There’s mindfulness put into the business with a lot of intention and love.”

This spring, she launched the Cloud Room. There are multiple modalities stacked into three stations designed to be done as a circuit to balance the whole body.

.

55

Above Manager Naomi Williams enjoys an afternoon in the soaking tub.

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Spend the day relaxing with a massage, soak and sauna experience.

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The first is a heated jade acupressure back massage table, which guests can use with leg compression boots to control for light or deep tissue massage.

The second station is a salt chamber, which puts micro-particles of salt into the air along with aromatherapy and breath exercises to teach people how to breathe deeply. Salt therapy has been shown to benefit the immune and respiratory systems, and deep breathing activates the vagus nerve (the main nerves that make up the parasympathetic nervous system) for stress and trauma healing.

“One favorite teaching: ‘Without the mud, there is no lotus.’ He’s speaking to the suffering and struggle in life that is the metaphorical compost …, the basis of our ability to evolve to become the people we’re meant to be, and find the treasures of life,” – S h a h i da S pa n n - r ya n – The final area features an antigravity lounge chair lined with heated infrared crystals and a sound system that plays healing music with binaural beats to induce the brain into meditative brain wave states. It can be a nap room for tired moms, burned-out executives, or professionals trying to destress and recharge.

“People really love the package combination deals like Cloud Nine, which is our ultimate spa experience—an hour-long in the Cloud Room, an hour massage, and an hour Soak-n-Sauna,” Spann-Ryan says. “It gives an immersive spa experience and benefits your health with evidence-backed and proven modalities to promote healing in the body.”

FAIRCHILD WELLNESS RETREAT, Overbrook Providing quiet, soulful breaks from ordinary routines, the Fairchild Wellness Retreat offers a fabulous and fun getaway in a Bohemian Bunkhouse, which features a couch swing. Known for play, relaxation and inspiration, this retreat center offers yoga classes and experiential workshops created by coach and exercise physiologist Cheryl Miller. fairchildwellnessretreat.com ROCK HAVEN SPA, Hays Rock Haven is a secluded haven that invites guests to unwind and reconnect with nature. Featuring serene areas of oasis, local landscapes, and wildlife, this tranquil retreat offers the perfect setting to escape the stresses of everyday life and rediscover the beauty of the natural world. rockhavenspa.com THE COTTAGE STAY & SPA, Eudora Located within walking distance of downtown Eudora, The Cottage offers a luxurious retreat for guests to escape and recharge. The tranquil beauty of the surroundings can be enjoyed from the fenced patio and fire pit while private access to an indoor swim spa and hot tub provides the ultimate relaxation experience.

Find them on airbnb.com HIDDEN VALLEY WILDERNESS RETREAT, Leavenworth On an enchanted wooded acreage, destinations include a suite in the main house and tree houses named Graham’s, Serenity Creek, and Whispering Elm. This retreat is located along the Glacial Hills Scenic Byway and features rock-strewn valleys carved by ancient glaciers. hiddenvalleywilderness.com LITTLE APPLE A-FRAME CABIN, Manhattan To unwind and unplug in a unique and tranquil waterfront cabin near Tuttle Creek Lake, the A-Frame flows thoughtfully with appointed updates and finishes. Step back into Kansas history with camping essentials in this primer cabin. Find them on airbnb.com EAST BANK ON MILLS CREEK, Maple Hill Located in the beautiful Flint Hills, East Bank is the ultimate choice for serene landscapes miles from distractions. The facility features 12 private cabins, scenic views, a swimming pool, fire pits, fishing, basketball, tennis and more. eastbankonmillcreek.com PULLIAM CATTLE CO. & TREEHOUSE RETREAT, Mulvane This getaway is housed on a family residence and cattle ranch that doubles as a tree house stay and outdoor event venue. With 20 acres to enjoy, guests can choose between three unique tree houses, one yurt and two outdoor wedding or event locations. pulliamcattleco.com PRAIRIEWOOD, Manhattan Envisioned as a legacy of connection to life-giving land, Prairiewood is nestled among 500 private acres set aside specifically as a tallgrass prairie preserve. It offers first-class accommodations, event space, and community programs, all thoughtfully assembled to create a truly one-of-a-kind experience. prairiewood.com

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COLT FORNEY MORTON COUNTY

gallery

K A N S A S !

TOM ARNHOLD JOHNSON COUNTY

PAIGE MENDOZA GEARY COUNTY

JENNIFER RUCKER BARBER COUNTY

G A L L E R Y

K A N S A S !

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ROBERT CRAIG LOGAN COUNTY

K A N SAS !

P OE MS W R IT T E N

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K A N SA N S

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C U R ATE D

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L AURE ATE TR AC I

B RI M H A L L

After the Drought I dreamt of a rattlesnake, sliced and belly-up, sprawled on barbed wire. Open to the sky, it laid bare a sacrifice to which I whispered—let rain fall on flint-pierced hills, on seed stitch fields of thirst-brimmed wheat. Let the storm reveal the unmarked graves of bison.

Let the rolling torrents cloak the remains of homesteads and bleached country churches.

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY Eileen Montalvo Wertzberger, Adobe Stock

For too long, I let the prairie retreat into itself; I surrendered to the will of barren clouds. But in sleep I learned to pray for a return after rest, a healing that stems from my serpentine offering— the promise of green earth birthed from a burn kissed by rain.

Eileen Montalvo Wertzberger is an educator who lives in Alma. She taught high school English for 13 years and is now an assistant professor in the Kansas State University College of Education. This is her first published poem.

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WASHINGTON

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