AUTUMN
SEP–NOV 2018 No. 219
FREE
WESTERN JAPAN’S PREMIER VISITOR’S GUIDE
Falling for Kyoto Explore Japan’s cultural capital this autumn
Plus
Inside… Explore
A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND IN KOBE
Sights
BEST SPOTS FOR FALL FOLIAGE
Food & Drink
TIPS ON MAKING EDIBLE BENTO ART
Discover
THE ANCIENT ART OF NOH
WHAT’S ON EAT & DRINK SIGHTSEEING MAPS
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Mental processing speed scores improved as a result of hydrogen inhalation
The top-selling hydrogen gas inhaler in Japan
THE BEST TECHNOLOGY IN THE WORLD'S SMALLEST
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CONTENTS
32
Autumn Sep / Oct / Nov
26
16
KANSAI FINDER
12
22
32
Kyoto by Neighborhood
70th Exhibition of Shoso-in Treasures
Events & Festivals
ASHLEY OWEN
36
Insider tips on exploring Kyoto.
A selection of 56 treasures from the Nara and Heian periods in the 8th Century.
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23
Sights & Attractions
Kyoto’s Geisha World
Fall-leaf Fever BROOKE LARSEN
Art & Exhibitions
LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA
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The geisha of Kyoto and where to go to find them.
Where to admire Kansai’s crimson foliage this fall.
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18
24
Live Music
A Perfect Long Weekend in Kobe
Sake Sampling
Mountain hikes, boutique shopping, and tasty marbled beef all in a long weekend.
Inside a traditional family-run sake brewery in Kyoto’s Fushimi district.
26 The Art of the Bento LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA
AND MUCH MORE… CHECK OUT KANSAISCENE.COM FOR MORE FEATURES AND KANSAI TRAVEL INFO
42
Making your bento lunch box a work of art isn’t as hard as it sounds.
Clubs & Nightlife
44 Food & Drink
48 Getting Around / Maps
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
What’s On Guide
ON THE COVER: JIDAI MATSURI, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/ALUXUM THIS PAGE: 16 GEISHA PERFORMING, DAWN O’DAY; 26 BENTO ART, YUKI IKEDA; 32 WAKAYAMA TAKETOYA FESTIVAL
Features
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Chef’s signature olive beef sirloin with autumn vegetables and red wine sauce. Provided for illustrative purposes only. Actual menu items subject to change.
Michelin-starred Dining at Pierre Chef’s Autumn Menu from ¥16,000++ Lunch 11:30 a.m. - 2:00 p.m. • Dinner 6:00 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Winner of a one-star rating in The Michelin Guide to Kyoto Osaka 2018 and 2017, Pierre affords the finest in InterContinental Osaka dining. Under the supervision of Executive Chef Tobias Gensheimer and Head Chef Okubo, Pierre is our signature dining experience. Guests enjoy superb culinary creativity from our signature Olive Beef to exquisite seafood, veal, and vegetable dishes carefully prepared in refined French style. Each dinner is a sumptuous
Contact us
feast for the eye and palate with delicate Japanese touches. We
3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka, Japan 530-0011 T +81 (0)6 6374 5700 F +81 (0)6 6374 3233 E intercontinental.osaka@ihg.com
blend to complete your extraordinary dining experience at Pierre.
www.icosaka.com/en/
offer the very best champagnes and wines including our boutique
OSAKA
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
ABOUT KANSAI SCENE KANSAI SCENE PROVIDES ENGLISHLANGUAGE ARTICLES, INFORMATION AND LISTINGS FOR VISITORS AND RESIDENTS OF THE KANSAI AREA. KANSAI SCENE IS PUBLISHED BY MOJOWORKS KK, WITH SUPPORT FROM CB, LTD. Publisher................................Daniel Lee Managing Editor.......Celia Polkinghorne Editor................................. Jason Haidar Art Director............................Daniel Lee Production........................Mojoworks KK Miyoko Morita, Misa Matsui, Tim Wilkinson, Erik Svare
Listings Contributors Art.................................. Peggy Holsclaw Cinema.............................. Miyoko Morita Events..................................Tomoko Ishii Live Music....................... Phillip Jackson Club.................................. Saiko Fujiwara
A
fter what has been a truly scorching summer, we welcome autumn with arms wide open, and with it, we bring you the first-ever seasonal issue of Kansai Scene. Moving from a monthly to a quarterly publication, we’re previewing events happening over the next three months (check them all out starting on page 32). Fall is an ideal time of year to visit Kyoto, so we’ve prepared a tour of the district’s best neighborhoods (geisha-spotting included!) starting on page 12. If you’re headed to Hyogo, have a look at our ideas for a perfect long weekend in Kobe on page 18. Keep page 23
earmarked for when the leaves start to turn and let it be your guide to some of the most beautiful koyo (fall-foliage) spots in the region. And if you’re putting together a picnic to eat under the changing leaves, don’t miss the bento-creation tips on page 26— we picked the brains of a bentomaking contest winner as well as a school mom for some hot DIY Japanese lunch-box ideas! Stay up-to-date with a full list of Kansai events and festivals on the Kansai Finder page of our website, and for reminders of what’s happening in the region every week, sign up for our weekly e-newsletters at kansaiscene.com.
CELIA POLKINGHORNE editor@ kansaiscene.com
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES CB, Ltd Email................ sales@kansaiscene.com Tel......................................03-6260-9125
FALL FOLIAGE GET OUT AND EXPLORE SOME OF KANSAI’S BEAUTIFUL FALLLEAVES SPOTS, P. 23.
GENERAL ENQUIRIES
PHOTO: NARA PARK IN THE FALL, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SEANPAVONEPHOTO
General ....... mailbox@kansaiscene.com Editorial.......... editor@kansaiscene.com Tel. .....................................06-6539-1717 Fax. ....................................06-7635-4791 Address.................. Osaka-shi, Nishi-ku, .....................................Shinmachi 3-5-7, ............................................Eiko Bldg. 2F ..........................................Mojoworks KK Website........................kansaiscene.com WRITE FOR KANSAI SCENE If you would like to write for KS, please contact editor@kansaiscene.com after reviewing our writers’ guidelines: kansaiscene.com/write-for-us DISCLAIMER Opinions expressed herein are not necessarily endorsed by the publisher. We take no responsibility for the quality or content of advertisements. Public and private parties approached by those claiming to work for or on behalf of Kansai Scene should call this office to confirm the truth of any such claim, especially where money may be involved.
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CALENDAR
Seasonal Highlights
ABOVE: ORNATELY DECORATED FLOATS ARE PARADED AROUND THE STREETS DURING THE OTSU FESTIVAL
Sep SEP 15 & 16
DANJIRI FESTIVAL Osaka Intricately carved danjiri (floats) are pulled at high speeds by teams of men around the narrow streets of Kishiwada town. See p.17 for details. SEP 15 & 16
SELF MATSURI Osaka Bright colors, extravagant costumes, and peculiar performances take place at this do-ityourself festival at the
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Shinsekai shoppingarcade area. Take part yourself by dressing up or just go and enjoy the people-watching. See p. 32 for details.
Oct OCT 6 & 7
OTSU FESTIVAL Shiga Thirteen magnificent hikiyama floats host performances of karakuri ningyo – Japanese mechanical puppets. These ‘moving museums,’ are richly decorated with textiles, gold-leaf and lacquerwork. See p. 34 for details.
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
OCT 14 & 15
NADA NO KENKA MATSURI – FIGHTING FESTIVAL Hyogo Portable shrines are crashed into each other in Himeji as part of “the fighting festival,” depicting a great battle from a mythological age. More than 100,000 people watch this exciting religious event every year. See p. 33 for details. OCT 22
FESTIVAL OF THE AGES Kyoto This colorful, costumefilled Jidai Matsuri is one of Kyoto’s three largest festivals and
celebrates the city’s long history and fascinating traditional culture. See p.16 for details. OCT 27–NOV 12
THE 70TH ANNUAL EXHIBITION OF SHOSO-IN TREASURES Nara Marking its 70th year, this annual exhibition showcases a selection of stunning treasures mostly dating back to the Nara and Heian periods in the 8th Century. See page 22 for details.
ABOVE: PORTABLE SHRINES CRASH INTO EACH OTHER AT THE NADA FIGHTING FESTIVAL
BELOW: COLORFUL PROCESSION AT KYOTO’S FESTIVAL OF THE AGES
TOP: SHINSENEN KYOGEN PERFORMANCE IN KYOTO BOTTOM LEFT: MANGA ART EXHIBITION AT THE KYOTO MANGA MUSEUM BOTTOM RIGHT: THE COLORFUL SHITENNOJI WASSO CARNIVAL
Nov NOV 2–4
SHINSENEN KYOGEN Kyoto In this classic nonverbal Japanese performance art, masked actors entertain the audience with their animated gestures and colorful costumes, accompanied by gongs, flutes, and taiko drums. See p. 32 for details. UNTIL NOV 6
PEACEMAKER KUROGANE ORIGINAL ARTWORK EXHIBITION Kyoto
NOV 23
Peacemaker Kurogane is a manga written by Nanae Chrono that takes place just before the Meiji Era, when the seeds of revolution were being planted. In this exhibition, more than 100 original works created for the manga will be on display alongside related materials. See p. 37 for details.
Nara Enjoy a matchlock gun demonstration, a colorful parade, and swordplay demonstrations at this annual celebration of all things samurai related. See p. 34 for details.
NOV 4
UNTIL NOV 25
SHITENNOJI WASSO
RYOHEI KOISO EXHIBITION
Osaka A spectacular carnival commemorating the cultural exchange between Japan and other Asian countries with more than 1,000 participants reenacting extravagant ancient ceremonies. See p. 32 for details.
TAKATORI CASTLE SAMURAI FESTIVAL
Kobe Kobe native Ryohei Koiso retrospective. This exhibition, held 30 years after Koiso’s death, is comprised of a number of the artist’s masterpieces, as well as pieces by contemporary Western
artists whose artworks were also inspired by events of the 20th century. See p. 36 for details. UNTIL JAN 20TH, 2019
NEW WAVE: JAPANESE CONTEMPORARY ART OF THE 1980S
LOOKING FOR MORE THINGS TO DO? COMPLETE EVENT LISTINGS CAN BE FOUND ONLINE AT KANSAIFINDER. COM
Osaka Presenting a wide range of works from the 1980s and its new generation of artists who valued a more personal brand of expression than artists before them. See p. 37 for details.
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
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TRADITIONAL PERFORMING ARTS IN KANSAI
能 Noh
Aria Aoyama, from the Japan Institute for Culture & International Exchange, sat down with Yoshie Yamamoto, from the acclaimed Yamamoto Noh Theater in Osaka, to discuss the ancient art of Noh and its place in modern Japan. PRESENTED BY THE JAPAN INSTITUTE FOR CULTURE & TEXT: KS 8
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
INTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE
GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR NOH EXPERIENCE
KNOW YOUR NOH
PHOTOS: © YAMAMOTO NOH THEATER
PERFORMED SINCE THE 14 CENTURY, NOHGAKU (NOH) IS SAID TO BE THE OLDEST EXISTING THEATER ART AND IS ALSO JAPAN’S FIRST INTANGIBLE CULTURAL HERITAGE LISTING, DESIGNATED BY UNESCO. IN ADDITION TO THE PERFORMANCE ITSELF, NOH SPELLBINDS ITS AUDIENCE WITH ITS BEAUTIFUL MASKS AND COLORFUL COSTUMES.
Aoyama: One of the things I love most about Noh is this dream state that I find myself in during performances—my eyes comfortably heavy, not being sure if what I see on stage is in my dreams or really happening. Come to think of it, it was only after the head of your theater (Akihiro Yamamoto—master actor, designated as a bearer of important intangible cultural heritage) told me that it’s more than okay to be in this state—as it “allows you to misinterpret reality”—that I really came to be able to enjoy Noh. Yamamoto: Yes, Noh is a performing art that relies heavily on the imagination of its audience. See, the actors are the bodies that carry the soul, and we say it’s the masks and costumes that stimulate the imagination. Sometimes the masks may be even more expressive than the face of a real person in conveying the profound emotions of the hero. For the actors, the masks are more important than life itself. A: I remember one of the musicians mentioning something similar about their instruments, saying that they themselves were only vehicles of their instruments that outlive them in order to transmit the music created by the past. And I think he noted that most instruments used in Noh are indeed several hundred years old. Y: Not just the instruments but many of the masks and costumes too. Noh has
a history of some 700 years. Costumes started becoming more and more elaborate around the Muromachi period (1336–1573) when shoguns started gifting their garments to the actors. And after the great warrior Toyotomi Hideyoshi—a devout admirer of Noh—started performing himself, the costumes became pieces of art themselves. A: Yes, luxurious beyond imagination. I believe even some of the costumes use real gold threads. Toyotomi Hideyoshi was indeed extravagant to the point he ordered that “gold be applied to furniture, weapons, armor, and furthermore, to the exterior of the Main Tower of Osaka Castle” that he had built. It’s no wonder that some of the most opulent pieces—found in any form of theater across the world—come from Noh. Y: Noh enjoyment really is a combination of so many factors, including the aesthetics. I know that for some it can seem boring, but taking the time to find out even just a little bit about the play beforehand, can enhance your enjoyment of the performance a thousand times. It is up to us to carry the art down to the next generation, and so we must find ways for it to be appreciated. It is an art that has been passed down verbally since the times of Zeami (Zeami Motokiyo—a famous Noh playwright from the 14th century).
• Get to know the basic synopsis of the story before you see the play You can browse a database of plays at the-noh.com/en/plays or download the excellent mobile app We Noh developed by Yanko Popov (an apprentice of Master Yamamoto from Bulgaria), where you can view animated stories of the plays and learn about the props and costumes used in each one. • Know what to focus on during the play The masks give all the background on who you are watching, and the main prop is usually the fan, but this fan transforms itself through your imagination to become a sword or a cup, and it also expresses different meanings and emotions through its positions and placement. Some keys lie in the dance—the mai. It is often said that Noh is not performed but “danced.” There are several types of mai depending on the tempo and who is dancing—it may be the dance of a god, or a man simply expressing enjoyment.
WHERE TO SEE NOH YAMAMOTO NOH THEATER
The Yamamoto Noh Theater stages traditional plays most weekends and holds workshops and other events to promote Noh. For experienced Noh enthusiasts see their online schedule for details. For beginners, they are staging a special version of their Evening of Traditional Osaka Performing Arts—in English! Enjoy performances of Rakugo (comic storytelling), Kyogen (comic plays) and Noh by professional actors. A great opportunity for non-Japanese speakers to get to grips with these three traditional performance art forms. EVENING OF TRADITIONAL OSAKA PERFORMING ARTS Nov 17 (Sat), 6–8pm • ADULTS: ¥4,500 (stalls); ¥3,000 (wings/2F) • RESERVATIONS: ticket@ noh-theater.com • TEL: 06-6943-9454 • ADDRESS: 1-3-6 Tokuicho, Chuo Ward • ACCESS: Tanimachi 4-chome Stn, 4-min walk • nohtheater.com
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
With a nosmoking policy, easy multilingual touch-screen menus, and an extensive variety of Japanese washoku favorites, Washoku Sato provides a great place to recharge for hungry families after a long day of sightseeing.
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Washoku Feast
Dine like the locals, without the stress, at Washoku Sato. TEXT: FELICTY TILLACK
C
onvenience, choice, and good service are all typical attributes of Japanese family restaurants and Washoku Sato, a chain with over 50 years of history, is working hard to become more accessible and welcoming to foreign travelers and their families. One big, recent change has been the move to become completely non-smoking across all of their stores. Another is the trilingual ordering tablet, which can change between Japanese, English, and Chinese menus, saving diners and staff from awkwardly pointing at pictures and deciphering body language. Popular song covers reimagined using Japanese instruments like the koto or shamisen play softly in the background. Friends and couples can tuck into tables and booths, typical of family restaurants, while
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
families with small children, or groups wanting a little more privacy, can relax in private Japanesestyle rooms. Washoku Sato’s signature offering is its all-you-can-eat shabu-shabu and sukiyaki deals. Shabu Shabu is a traditional Japanese hot-pot dish of vegetables and thinly sliced beef or pork. The meat is cooked by lightly swishing it backward and forward in the hot broth. Sukiyaki uses beef, browned along with vegetables in a soy sauce and mirin soup, and dipped quickly into raw egg before eating. Both standard options come with as much meat and vegetables as one wishes to eat. After 120 minutes, diners can choose from a small, traditional dessert, a greentea roll-cake or ice cream wrapped in a thin layer of mochi (pounded rice) for example, for the perfect finish to a delicious meal.
WASHOKU? TRADITIONAL JAPANESE CUISINE MADE FROM FRESH, OFTEN LOCAL, INGREDIENTS THAT CHANGE WITH THE SEASONS.
Top 5 Premium Course Dishes at Washoku Sato
PREMIUM COURSE SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE! 120 MINUTES OF ALL-YOU-CAN-EAT SHABU SHABU OR SUKIYAKI, PLUS A VARIETY OF MORE THAN 70 SIDE DISHES, INCUDING A CHOICE OF 1 DESSERT.
SUSHI
Along with crowd favorites tuna and salmon, try the plum-flavored mountain-potato sushi roll. Tasty and fresh with a little sourness from the plum which matches the slight saltiness of the seaweed.
Washoku Sato is a place for everyone—for couples, for families, for friends, for foreigners—a place for everyone to enjoy tasty Japanese dishes. Water and Japanese green tea are free of charge, but the all-you-can-drink SatoCafe serves coffee, tea, and soda for a small additional price, while the Sato-Bar has spirits like whisky and plum wine and a one-touch system that fills a cold beer glass automatically, with a perfect frothy head each time. The cost of SatoBar also includes drinks from Sato-Cafe. Unlike many izakaya, it is possible for the all-you-can-drink alcohol option to be ordered by only some members of the group, while others may only order the non-alcoholic drinks option, or choose to order drinks individually from the menu.
How to Order Switch the ordering tablet onto your language of choice—Japanese, English or Chinese. Flick through the menus in order, or press the tabs at the top to view the options. Order more portions of meat or vegetables for the shabu-shabu or sukiyaki, items from the premium menu, or drinks from the beverage menu if not partaking from Sato-Cafe or Sato-Bar. After putting in the number of portions desired, make sure to press confirm. The items are on their way!
TEMPURA
Fish, chicken, and even chips are available on the fried menu, but the mixed fry basket, with a little green tea salt, is best for variety and sharing.
All you can eat premium course For a small additional fee, enjoy a greatly expanded menu. Without leaving the restaurant, sample a wide array of Japanese cuisine from sushi, yakitori, and soba, to izakaya favorites like fried potato, edamame, and gyoza.
Kansai Locations
STEAK
Juicy, sizzling slices of steak with a little shredded cabbage to enjoy while waiting for the shabu shabu to cook. GYOZA
Satisfyingly crunchy, steaming hot, and particularly good with a cold beer. CHAWANMUSHI
Washoku Sato has restaurants all over Kansai, but mostly located within the suburbs. For convenient city options, we recommend these two stores:
A savory delight! This steamed egg dish is full of deep dashi (Japanese cooking stock) flavor, chunks of chicken and the slight bitterness of ginkgo nut.
GOJO, KYOTO
Conveniently placed for a stroll along the Kamogawa river, shopping in Kawaramachi or a visit to Kiyomizudera temple. Easily accessible via Gojo station on the Karasuma subway line. WASHOKU SATO KUMATA
A three-minute walk from Tobushijomae Station (only one stop away from Tennoji on the JR Yamatoji line). Visit Shitennoji temple or overlook Osaka’s skyline at Abeno Harukas before stopping in for lunch or dinner.
PRIVATE DINING FOR FAMILIES WITH SMALL CHILDREN, YOU CAN DINE IN A PRIVATE ROOM
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
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FEATURE
Exploring KYOTO’S BEST
Neighborhoods Wander through these 7 Kyoto districts to get to the heart of this cultural city. TEXT: ASHLEY OWEN
Kyoto is Japan’s cultural heart—an endlessly fascinating blend of the traditional and the modern. It’s a city which has plenty to offer both first-time travelers and regular visitors. Its collection of distinct neighborhoods each has an individual atmosphere and charm, and each is an unmissable destination in its own right.
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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
1. Kyoto station & surroundings This is the city’s main entry point, although the view on arrival might be somewhat unexpected; The futuristic steel-and-glass design of the station is at odds with the popular image of Kyoto as Japan’s historic capital. However, this lively hub of activity is well worth checking out. Drop into Isetan department store, The Cube shopping center, or the Porta underground mall for some retail therapy, or head to Kyoto Tower for a bird’s eye view of the city. This modern landmark is the city’s tallest
structure, and the 100-meter-high 360-degree observation deck is the perfect spot from which to survey your new surroundings. For those eager to see cultural sites, some of Kyoto’s finest temples are within walking distance of the station, including the imposing Higashi-Honganji and its neighbor Nishi-Honganji. To the south stands Toji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site easily spotted by its soaring 57-meter pagoda—the tallest in Japan. If possible, visit on the 21st of the month when the temple hosts a bustling market where you can peruse a staggering variety of new and second-hand goods.
PHOTOS: FUSHIMI INARI SHRINE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/LKUNL; ARASHIYAMA BAMBOO GROVES, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SEANPAVONEPHOTO; TOGETSUKYO BRIDGE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/H_YASUI; KYOTO STATION, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SEANPAVONEPHOTO
2. Arashiyama Tucked away on the Kyoto’s western edge, this pleasant and popular district lies nestled at the foot of the mountains. The area is centered around the famous Togetsukyo Bridge, which dates back to the Heian period and spans 155 meters across the Katsura River. Translated as ‘Moon Crossing Bridge,’ it’s one of the best spots to view the district’s spectacular fall foliage. To escape the crowds, rent a boat and relax while gliding leisurely along the river. Arashiyama is renowned for its skyscraping bamboo grove. One of the city’s most photogenic locations, its serene otherworldliness envelops you as you stroll through the soaring green stems. The area also boasts its own UNESCO World Heritage Site—the striking temple Tenryu-ji. Its sprawling landscaped garden is centuries old and a prime example of shakkei (‘borrowed scenery’), with the surrounding mountains perfectly incorporated into the composition of the garden.
Hike up to Iwatayama Monkey Park for the opportunity to hand-feed wild Japanese macaques and take in a spectacular view over Kyoto City. Afterward, head to one of Arashiyama’s many shojin ryori establishments, such as temple-restaurant Shigetsu, to feast on traditional temple fare. This exquisite Buddhist cuisine is made using seasonal ingredients and no animal products, with the intention of balancing body, mind, and spirit.
3. Central Kyoto This is the beating heart of Kyoto, packed with shops, bars, and restaurants, all within walking distance of each other. Nishiki Market, aka Kyoto’s Kitchen, is heaven for foodies. A lively, traditional food market, it will overwhelm your senses with the sights, sounds, and smells of fresh, locally produced culinary delights. Take your time navigating the busy, narrow alley and sampling all that’s on offer, from tea to pickles and fresh seafood.
FUTURE SHOCK THE MODERN STEEL AND GLASS DESIGN OF KYOTO STATION IS SEEMINGLY AT ODDS WITH ITS HISTORICAL IMAGE
TOGETSUKYO BRIDGE THE ANCIENT BRIDGE THAT CROSSES THE KATSURA RIVER IS A PERFECT SPOT TO VIEW THE AUTUMN LEAVES.
BAMBOO FOREST TAKE A WALK THROUGH THE SERENE BAMBOO GROVES IN ARASHIYAMA. VISIT IN THE EARLY MORNINGS ON WEEKDAYS TO AVOID THE CROWDS.
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
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4. Higashiyama
AUTUMN SPLENDOR KIYOMIZUDERA LOOKS AMAZING ANY TIME OF YEAR, BUT DURING THE AUTUMN SEASON IT IS ILLUMINATED, LOOKING STUNNING AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF AUTUMN FOLIAGE
SAMPLE SOME LOCAL BEERS BEER KOMACHI SERVES UP SOME DELICIOUS LOCAL BREWS
After working up a thirst, explore the local craft beer scene at Kyoto Beer Lab and Beer Komachi. For spirits lovers, Miltons Kyoto is not to be missed – a tiny but welcoming five-seat bar with a wide range of spirits and a rare nosmoking policy. Plus, if you are up for an indulgent dining experience, this district is the perfect place to try kaiseki ryori. An elegant, multi-course eating extravaganza, make a reservation at Kiyamachi Sakuragawa, Teramachi Yoshikura, or Umenohana for a delectable dining experience. Shopaholics will delight in the vast range of temptations on offer, from independent souvenir shops in the Teramachi shopping arcade to big-name stores along Sanjo-dori. As night falls, this road plays host to a variety of street performers. Head a bit further north to encounter the district’s main sightseeing spots: Nijo Castle and the Imperial Palace. Both have immense historical and cultural value, showcasing traditional Japanese architecture and perfectly manicured gardens.
Find it…
A flurry of labyrinthine alleyways, preserved machiya (traditional wood houses) and a myriad of temples and shrines, Higashiyama is the locale to visit to experience all the traditional charms of Kyoto. Go geisha-spotting in Gion, partake in the ritual of the Japanese tea ceremony, or indulge in an exclusive kaiseki ryori meal in one of the area’s topclass restaurants. Visitors are spoilt for choice when it comes to temples in Kyoto, however, Higashiyama’s Kiyomizudera is a mustsee. Perched upon the hillside, it offers a phenomenal viewpoint to admire the autumn leaves as they burst into a sea of red and gold. Sanjusangen-do Temple’s 1,001 statues of Kannon (the goddess of mercy) are a striking sight, and for those in more of an educational mood, the Kyoto National Museum exhibits a rotating display of artwork and cultural artifacts. Marking Higashiyama’s western border is the River Kamo, which cuts straight through the city. Well-trodden footpaths line both sides of the water, and nothing beats sitting by the riverside with a drink or picnic—and maybe even some sparklers!—on a warm night.
5. Sakyo Sakyo ward stretches far north of Higashiyama up into the mountains, but it’s the arty, intellectual area in the south of this district that holds the most appeal. The home of Kyoto University, you can follow in the footsteps of one of its famous professors by strolling along the peaceful Philosopher’s Path, contemplating the meaning of life
Isetan Kyoto Station Building; kyoto.wjr-isetan.co.jp • The Cube Kyoto Station Building; thecube.co.jp • Porta underground mall Kyoto Bus Station; porta.co.jp • Kyoto Tower keihanhotels-resorts.co.jp/kyoto-tower • Higashi-Honganji higashihonganji.or.jp • Nishi-Honganji hongwanji.or.jp • Toji Temple Kujo-cho 1, Minami-ku; toji.or.jp/en • Tenryu-ji 68 Susukinobaba-cho, Saga-Tenryuji, Ukyo-ku; tenryuji.com/en • Iwatayama Monkey Park monkeypark.jp • Nishiki Market kyoto-nishiki. or.jp • Kyoto Beer Lab Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201; kyotobeerlab.jp • Beer Komachi 444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward; facebook.com/beerkomachi • Miltons Kyoto Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F • Kiyamachi Sakuragawa Nijokudaru-Kamikorikicho-491, Kiyamachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku; kyoto-sakuragawa.jp • Teramachi Yoshikura 102 Shinyodmaecho, Kamigyo-ku; kyoto-yoshikura.com/teramachi.htm • Umenohana Karasuma Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West 18 Bldg. B1F; umenohana-restaurant. co.jp • Kyoto National Museum 527 Chayacho, Higashiyama Ward; kyohaku.go.jp • Nijo Castle 541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward • Imperial Palace 3 Kyotogyoen, Kamigyo Ward •
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PHOTOS: KIYOMIZUDERA, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/LUISSYBUSTER; BEER KOMACHI, JASON HAIDAR; GINKAKUJI TEMPLE, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/VICHIE81
while listening to the gentle flow of the adjacent canal. Heading north, this route culminates at the area’s flagship attraction, Ginkakuji (the Silver Pavilion). The muted sister to flaming gold Kinkakuji in the west, it’s a living example of the Japanese aesthetic of ‘wabi-sabi,’ or finding beauty in simplicity and imperfection. Just behind Ginkakuji is Mount Daimonji, on which a huge blaze is lit in the shape of the kanji character for ‘great’ every August to mark the end of Obon. Year-round it makes for an excellent short hike with panoramic views of the city from the hillside. For a more challenging climb, travel further north again to the towering 848-meter Mount Hiei, one of Kyoto’s most sacred mountains and home to yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, Enryakuji. This huge temple complex— also accessible by cable car—is especially magnificent in the autumn as the surrounding trees drop their leaves and carpet the area in crimson.
6. Northwest Kyoto The north-west of Kyoto is slightly out of the way compared to other districts, but well worth making the effort to see. Here you’ll find the dazzling golden pavilion of Kinkakuji, one of the city’s most Instagrammable spots, and a sight that genuinely lives up to expectations. Just around the corner, the walled Daitokuji temple complex hides a number of serene Zen gardens and offers the chance to try zazen meditation. After satisfying your spiritual side, stop by the nearby Imamiya Shrine to indulge in freshly baked aburi mochi from one of the two teahouses outside the eastern gate. Both have been making these bitesize grilled rice cakes for centuries.
SILVER PAVILLION THE SIMPLISTIC BEAUTY OF GINKAKUJI IN SAKYO-WARD WAS MEANT TO BE GILT IN SILVER BUT NEVER COMPLETED.
Overlooking the entire area is Mount Atago, the tallest mountain in the city at 924 meters. The hike up (no cable car for this peak!) is basically one long, arduous staircase, but at the summit, you’ll be treated to sweeping views and one of the least crowded shrines in Kyoto. North of the city, there are several smaller, more rural towns that make great side trips. Kibune is an autumnal wonderland of shrines and ryokan (traditional Japanese inns), and Kurama’s quaint atmosphere, mountain air, and steamy hot springs are a refreshing break from the bustling city. A hiking trail connects the two, making it easy to visit both in one day.
7. Southern Kyoto If there’s one image of Kyoto that’s permeated to all corners of the globe, it’s the seemingly endless tunnels of vermilion torii gates that comprise Fushimi Inari Taisha. This vast Shinto shrine complex is one of the highlights of southern Kyoto, stretching back over the mountainside, a maze of fox statues,
hiking trails, and tourists (visit early mornings on weekdays to avoid crowds). The narrow streets leading to the shrine teem with food stalls, souvenir shops, and restaurants selling kitsune noodles. These come topped with deep-fried tofu – said to be a favorite food of the fox messengers of Inari in Shinto lore. Slightly north of Fushimi Inari lies Tofukuji Temple, one of Kyoto’s most impressive temples and best spots for viewing the autumn colors. Further south, you’ll come across the district of Fushimi, the city’s sake-brewing area. A tranquil and traditional neighborhood, it’s home to nearly 40 sake breweries, making it one of the country’s leading sake-producing spots. Follow the heady scent of fermentation and pop into Gekkeikan, Aburacho, or Fushimi Yume Hyakushu to sample a local tipple. If you’re more of a beer fan, don’t miss Kizakura Kappa Country, which brews some of the best craft beer in the city.
Kiyomizudera 294 Kiyomizu 1-chome, Higashiyama Ward; kiyomizudera.or.jp • Sanjusangen-do Temple 657 Sanjusangendomawari, Higashiyama Ward; sanjusangendo.jp • Ginkakuji 2 Ginkakujicho, Sakyo Ward; shokoku-ji.jp • Enryakuji 4220 Sakamotohonmachi, Otsu; hieizan.or.jp • Kinkakuji 1 Kinkakujicho, Kita Ward; shokoku-ji.jp • Daitokuji 53 Murasakino Daitokujicho, Kita Ward • Imamiya Shrine 21 Murasakino Imamiyacho, Kita Ward; imamiyajinja.org • Fushimi Inari Taisha 68 Fukakusa Yabunouchicho, Fushimi-ku; inari.jp • Tofukuji Temple tofukuji.jp/english • Gekkeikan 247 Minamihama-cho, Fushimi-ku; gekkeikan.co.jp/english • Aburacho 780 Higashiotecho, Fushimi-ku • Fushimi Yume Hyakushu 247 Minami Hama-cho, Fushimi-ku • Kizakura Kappa Country 228 Shioya-machi, Fushimi-ku; fushimi.or.jp/sake_guide/tasting
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FEATURE
New Perspectives on Old Traditions:
Kyoto’s Geisha Today TEXT: LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA • IMAGES: DAWN O’DAY
G
eisha seem to embody the very spirit of traditional Japanese culture: Elegance, discipline, hospitality and an enigmatic presence that somehow sets them apart from the rest of the population—and nowhere more so than in Kyoto. The geisha world is still somewhat of a mystery to the average person, but it is becoming increasingly accessible as society changes. Geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha) encounters are no longer the exclusive domain of business executives with high-level connections and expense accounts to match. Today’s geisha—or geiko as they are known in Kyoto—often perform for and talk about their art to groups of wide-eyed international visitors or children on school trips. American Dawn O’Day has been based in Kyoto for more than 20 years and has both a personal and professional interest in the world of geisha. A lecturer at Ritsumeikan University, O’Day has also developed and taught English courses about geisha culture for Japanese tour guides. During her time in Kyoto, she has had many opportunities to talk with and photograph those who work in Kyoto’s hanamachi (geisha districts).
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“One does not get very far in Kyoto without having shokai (introduction), and this is especially true when it comes to meeting people in the geisha districts,” explains O’Day. Such an introduction led to her visit to an okiya, the home owned by the mama-san who oversees the training and careers of the geiko in her care. “My private student recommended me to the mama-san because she needed an English teacher for her grandson. As a result, I found myself inside her okiya on a weekly basis for about two years. While there, I met and talked with geiko-san and maiko-san and learned a lot about the inner workings of an okiya.” In the past, young girls often had little choice if family tradition or lack of finances dictated a life as a geisha, but nothing could be further from the truth today. Modern young geisha are very much in charge of their own destiny, usually making up their minds to embark on this path around the age of 15, upon graduation from junior high school. O’Day notes that finding young women suited to the unique lifestyle of the profession is vital to the future of Kyoto’s hanamachi. She recalls a recent
A peek inside the world of a modern geisha and where to go in Kyoto to see them.
DAWN O’DAY’S TIPS FOR VISITORS HOPING FOR AN AUTHENTIC GEISHA ENCOUNTER: Traditional annual geisha dance performances continue today, and can be found in each of the five Kyoto hanamachi every year in either the spring or in the fall depending upon the hanamachi that is offering it. Tickets can be purchased at the dance theaters in their respective districts.
GION CORNER
PHOTOS: © DAWN O’DAY
TRADITIONAL MAIKO DANCE PERFORMANCES CAN BE SEEN AT GION CORNER
interview during her academic research on the topic. “The manager of one ochaya (tea house) told me he does not actively recruit teenagers to train to become maiko-san. This is because the rigors of training require that the girls themselves must be highly motivated to do this type of work. In effect, he must patiently wait for them to approach his ochaya, and this is often done through shokai that come from one source or another. For example, Japanese teenagers who are studying traditional dance or tea ceremony might ask their teacher or a master about connections to this world in order to gain access to it,” she says. Inbound tourism to Kyoto has also had an effect on the hanamachi. According to O’Day, the number of maiko in Kyoto
dropped temporarily in 2012 as a result of a sharp decline in international visitors following the 2011 earthquake and tsunami disaster in Tohoku. However, the tourism industry has rapidly recovered since then. “By July 2013, there were 183 geiko and 61 maiko. As of December 2016, we saw a slight decrease in geiko (180), but an increase in maiko (70), and these numbers have since remained fairly constant. This is likely to be the case because, while preserving the traditions that enable them to be consummate hosts (such as not allowing first-time customers in their ochaya, which has been a practice since the Edo period) and while maintaining high standards, the mama-san have found ways to attract first-time customers
that allow Japanese and foreign visitors alike to meet geisha and enjoy their traditional arts,” says O’Day. Recently, the influx of tourists in Kyoto has sometimes led to inconveniences for local residents, and in some cases, geisha have felt harassed by camera-toting tourists when going about their daily activities. O’Day advises keeping a respectful distance. “When you see them in the early evening hours, they will be on their way to appointments and shouldn’t be late. I am sure the geiko-san and maiko-san would really appreciate it if everyone can keep some distance from them, not touch them, or try to get their attention while photographing them.”
If you visit Kyoto when the dances aren’t being performed, traditional maiko dance performances can be seen at the Gion Corner, which also introduces tourists to other forms of Japanese traditional arts. You can also watch a dance performance called Kyoto Go Kagai Godo Dento Geino Tokubetsu Koen, featuring all of the geisha from the five districts, which is held in June. Throughout the summer months, you can enjoy meeting maiko at the geisha beer gardens in the Miyagawa-cho and Kamishichiken geisha districts. (Call 075-561-1151 for Miyagawacho or 075-461-0148 for Kamishichiken. Reservations are required on the weekends.) Finally, throughout the year, you can enjoy maiko dance shows, which are held at the Ganko Takasegawa Nijoen restaurant on Kiyamachi Street. These shows are free, and the maiko will discuss her lifestyle and answer questions from the audience. It is best to call ahead to find out the days and times the maiko shows will be held (Tel.075-223-3456). For a private party, it is also possible to order a ‘maiko-plan.’ More information about this can be found at www.gankofood.co.jp.
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EXPLORE
A PERFECT LONG WEEKEND
in Kobe
Immerse yourself in the cosmopolitan vibe and explore the natural surrounds of Hyogo’s historic port city.
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PHOTOS: KOBE BAY, ISTOCKPHOTO/BEE32; KOBE IN TWILIGHT, ISTOCKPHOTO/HIRO1775; CRUISE SHIP, ISTOCKPHOTO/GYRO; KITANO, ISTOCKPHOTO/COWARD_LION; SOBAMESHI, ISTOCKPHOTO/ SANMAI; MOSAIC FERRIS WHEEL, ISTOCKPHOTO/KOMETAL; KOBE BEEF, ISTOCKPHOTO/EVANTRAVELS; CHINATOWN, ISTOCKPHOTO/SEANPAVONEPHOTO; NUNOBIKI ROPEWAY, ISTOCKPHOTO/JIKGOE
KITANO EXPLORE THE KITANO DISTRICT AND ITS OLD EUROPEAN ARCHITECTURE
W
hether you’re seeking outdoor activities, shopping, eating, or sake sampling, this bright and bustling harborside city has something for you. Why not combine all four pursuits into one exciting long weekend? Follow our recommendations for a fun and adventure-filled few days in Kobe.
Day 1
Check out the stores along the Motomachi Shotengai
Stroll through streets of European architecture in Kitano
Wander down the Motomachi covered shopping street and browse the approximately 300 clothing, electronics, and souvenir shops down this 1.2 km arcade.
Meander uphill from Sannomiya Station to an area of tree-lined streets with a smattering of old-style merchant houses, quaint cafes, and boutique shops.
Ride the sky-scraping Mosaic Ferris Wheel
Eat desserts made from Kobe dairy produce Stop into a sweets store like Kannonya Cheese Cake Motomachi or Kazamidori Honpo for cheesecake and ice cream made with milk from Kobe dairy farms.
Take in panoramic views of the city, port, and bay from a giant Ferris wheel located in Kobe Harborland.
MILKY GOODNESS KOBE ROKKO FARM HAS TWO OUTLETS IN KITANO WHERE YOU CAN PICK UP A TASTY DAIRY TREAT LIKE THIS MATCHA ICE-CREAM WITH AZUKI BEANS
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COMFORT FOOD TRY A PLATE OF SOBAMESHI – PAN-FRIED RAMEN-STYLE NOODLES WITH FRIED RICE
Day 2 Go for a morning walk in Port Island’s seaside parklands Catch the port liner driverless train over to the man-made Port Island in Kobe bay and take a brisk walk through its waterfront parks.
Hunt for Japanese crafts and antiques at Kobe flea markets SPECTACULAR NIGHT VIEW THE TOP OF MT.ROKKO PROVIDES A FABULOUS VANTAGE POINT OVER THE TWINKLING CITY LIGHTS BELOW
Pick up washi paper greeting cards, Tamba-style pottery, and other arts, crafts, and accessories at weekend markets by the sea (Maiko Park on Saturdays, and Meriken Park on the first and third Sundays of the month).
Tour rice-wine breweries in the Nada sake district Go cellar-door hopping and learn about the sake-brewing process in one of
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Japan’s top sake-production hubs. Start out on foot from Hanshin Uozaki Station and drop in at Hamafukutsuru Ginjo Kobo, Sakura Masamune, Kiku Masamune, and Hakutsuru breweries.
Eat a plate of sobameshi Served sizzling on a hot teppan (iron griddle), this simple blend of fried rice and soba noodles mixed with egg and chicken or pork in a fragrant sweet sauce is just the kind of comfort food you’re looking for after a day of sake sampling. Try Aomori or Nagata Tanksuji in the Nagata district.
Admire the twinkling lights of Kobe from the ocean on a bay cruise Ride a boat out from the port and take in views of the Kobe skyline and city lights in the evening.
MT. ROKKO HIKE OR TAKE THE ROPEWAY TO THE TOP OF MT. ROKKO AND VISIT THE NUNOBIKI HERB GARDEN
Day 3
Ando and admire art collections from Japan and around the world.
Day 4
Sample the catch of the day at the Akashi fish market
Explore Nankin-machi— Kobe’s China Town
Hike to the top of Mount Rokko
Enjoy a sashimi breakfast with the sound of the bustling morning fish auctions in the background
Feel the atmosphere of China as you walk through the alleys of Nankinmachi. While you’re there, drop into Roshoki—an old restaurant that specializes in serving Chinese steamed pork buns (buta-manju).
Get an early start and climb to the Rokko summit, take in far-reaching city and bay views, and wander through the Nunobiki Herb Garden on the way down.
Pick persimmons at a fruit orchard Pluck and eat persimmons straight from the trees in the October–November harvest period at Hazedani and Oshibedani in Kobe’s Nishi district of Kobe. Try Tomokiyo Kaki Orchard or Kizu Kaki Orchard (reservation only – Tel: 078-961-2650).
Browse Japanese and Western artworks at the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art Wander through the aesthetically pleasing glass and granite buildings designed by the famous Japanese architect Tadao
Dip your feet into a waterfall rock pool Walk for 30 minutes downhill from the lower exit of Nunobiki Herb Gardens or catch the ropeway down to view Nunobiki Falls. Have a picnic at the bottom and splash around in the rock pool near Shin-Kobe Station.
Feast on a Kobe beef steak Reward yourself after a long day of hiking with a meal of the marbled wagyu beef that this area is renowned for at a Kobe beef restaurant like Wakkoqu, Kissho Grill, or Steak Aoyama.
Find it…
Kannonya Motomachi 3-9-23 Motomachidori, Chuo Ward; kannonya.co.jp • Kazamidori Honpo Chuo Ward, Kitanocho, 3-5-5; kazamidori.co.jp • Maiko Park 2051 Higashimaikocho, Tarumi Ward; hyogo-maikopark.jp • Meriken Park Chuo Ward, Hatobacho, 2; feel-kobe.jp • Hamafukutsuru Ginjo Kobo 4 Chome-4-6 Uozaki Minamimachi, Higashinada Ward; hamafukutsuru.co.jp • Sakura Masamune 5-10-1 Uozaki Minamimachi, Higashinada Ward; sakuramasamune.co.jp • Kiku Masamune Higashinada Ward, Mikagehonmachi, 1-7-15; kikumasamune.co.jp • Hakutsuru 4-5-5 Sumiyoshi Minamimachi, Higashinada Ward; hakutsuru.co.jp • Aomori 4 Chome-8-6 Kubocho, Nagata Ward • Nagata Tank-suji B1 Sannomiya Center Plaza bldg, 1-8-1, Sannomiyacho, Chuo-ku; kobe1te2.com/tank • Akashi fish market 2029-1 Fujie, Akashishi; akashishijo.co.jp • Tomokiyo Kaki Orchard Nishi, Hasetanicho, Tomokiyo 265-266 • Kizu Kaki Orchard Oshibedanicho Kizu 751 • Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art 1-1-1 Wakinohamakaigandori, Chuo Ward; artm.pref.hyogo.jp • Nankin-machi 1-3-18 Sakaemachidori, Chuo Ward; nankinmachi.or.jp • Nunobiki Herb Garden 1-4-3 Kitanocho, Chuo Ward; kobeherb.com • Wakkoqu Japan, Chuo Ward, Kitanocho, 1-1; wakkoqu.com/index.html • Kissho Grill 2F 1-8-4 Motomachi, Chuo Ward; grill-kissho.com • Steak Aoyama 2-14-5 Shimoyamatedori, Chuo Ward; steakaoyama.com
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ART
The 70th Annual Exhibition of Shoso-in Treasures Nara National Museum
OCT 27–NOV 12
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ABOVE: NYOI OF RHINOCEROS HORN RIGHT: EIGHT-LOBED BRONZE MIRROR DECORATED ON THE BACK WITH MOTHER-OF-PEARL INLAY
SCHEDULE: Oct 27 to Nov 12; Open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (Open until 8 p.m. Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and national holidays. Last admission is 30 minutes before closing.) ADMISSION: ¥1,100 for adults, ¥700 for high school and university students, and ¥400 for elementary and junior high school students. Prices are reduced by ¥100 for advance tickets (on sale from Sep 12 until Oct 26) or for groups of 20 or more. “Autumn Late” discount tickets to visit the museum 90 minutes before closing can be purchased 2.5 hours before it closes. They are priced at ¥800, ¥500, and ¥200 respectively. An advance pair of tickets for an adult visiting with a child of elementary or junior high school age costs ¥1,100. ACCESS: 15mins walk from Kintetsu Nara Station • TEL: 050-5542-8600 • narahaku. go.jp/english
MAIN PHOTO: OCTAGONAL BOX COVERED WITH TORTOISESHELL AND DECORATED WITH MOTHER-OF-PEARL INLAY
T
his year marks the 70th Exhibition of Shoso-in Treasures at the Nara National Museum. A selection of 56 treasures—mostly held by nobility and major Buddhist temples from around the Nara and Heian periods in the 8th Century—will be on display. Among the featured treasures will be items that have never been previously exhibited, as well as the “Octagonal box covered with tortoiseshell and decorated with mother-of-pearl inlay” (Taimai Raden Hakkaku no Hako). The Shoso-in was a former repository of the Todaiji Temple and is now under the jurisdiction of the Imperial Household Agency. It is a listed UNESCO World Heritage Site and houses a collection of approximately 9,000 treasures, artworks, and other items including many that traversed the silk road to reach Nara. Also amid the collection are various items that belonged to Emperor Shomu (701–756) who commanded that the statue of the Daibutsu—Great Buddha Vairocana—be built. The first exhibition featuring objects of the Shoso-in was held in October 1946, in the year following the end of the second world war, with the objective of soothing and encouraging the citizens of Japan. It was held as a special exhibit showing the items of the Shoso-in that had been evacuated into the museum for protection during the war. Despite a lack of suitable transport to reach the venue, and at a time when even food was still scarce, over 150,000 people gathered from across the country in the 20 days that the items were on display. Ever since, the exhibit has continued to be held annually, with this year marking the 70th year, and the last of the Heisei Era. The “Octagonal box covered with tortoiseshell and decorated with mother-of-pearl inlay” is, as its name suggests, covered with delicate engravings of flowers and birds and inlaid with motherof-pearl, amber, and turquoise, and is believed to originate from the Tang dynasty. Other treasures on display include the “Three knives in clustered sheaths”—a set of knives valued by the Emperor Shomu, a pair of embroidered women’s shoes that have allegedly been worn by the Empress Komyo (701–760), and the “Nyoi of rhinoceros horn,” a ceremonial object used by Buddhist monks decorated with quartz, gold, pearl and ivory. These are just a few of the many exhibited items that shed light on the rich and vibrant culture of the Tenpyo period (729–749).
DISCOVER
Fall-leaves Frenzy
As landscapes become a kaleidoscope of changing colors, behold the sight of nature’s breathtaking spectacle. TEXT: BROOKE LARSEN
Ah, autumn. With the cooling weather and the explosion of hues covering the normally monochromatic landscape, the flurry of the fall season is here again. Postcard scenery becomes inundated with visitors scrambling to witness the spectacle for themselves. It’s hard not to assimilate; the poetry of the changing landscape is enthralling. Join the masses and check out these five dazzling autumn-leaf viewing spots.
1 ARASHIYAMA, KYOTO
That gorgeous bamboo forest on the cover of seemingly every Japan travel guide? That’s Arashiyama. Be forewarned because this locale’s beauty comes at a price—it’s incredibly crowded. However, it’s worth it to witness the splendor of the Togetsukyo Bridge, the atmospheric machiya (traditional wooden Japanese houses), hidden forest temple Senko-ji, and, of course, the fall foliage, which is celebrated worldwide for a reason. ACCESS: TAKE THE HANKYU-KYOTO LINE TO KATSURA AND TRANSFER TO THE HANKYUARASHIYAMA LINE.
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4
5
KURAMA, KYOTO
MINOO PARK, OSAKA
GENKO-AN TEMPLE, KYOTO
WAKAYAMA CASTLE, WAKAYAMA
Situated just north of urban Kyoto is quaint, rural Kurama. Known for its outdoor onsen and celebrated temple, a trip immerses visitors in traditional culture. The heavily forested area transforms into a patchwork quilt of crimson every autumn. Enjoy the view on the ride into the town on trains with window-facing seats, as well as on the hike or cable-car ride up the local mountain.
Osakans’ favorite local escape is this quasi-national park just outside the city. Minoo is renowned for many things—a towering waterfall, wild monkeys, craft beer—but namely the momiji (maple leaves) that blanket the park in a colorful splendor come autumn. The walk through the town and forests of Minoo is charming and leisurely and best accompanied with fried momiji from the street stalls along the way.
This calm temple is a place of reflection. People come to sit in front of the famous circular and square windows and meditate or simply enjoy the view, which in autumn is exceptionally picturesque. An unusual macabre draw is the bloodstained ceiling, repurposed from the site of a historic samurai battle in the 1600s.
Wakayama Castle is historically significant (the unifiers of modern Japan resided here) and magnificent during autumn. The Momiji-dani (“Valley of the Autumn Leaves”) is resplendent in red and golden colors come November. Visit the oldfashioned teahouse and wander the vibrant grounds, matcha green tea in hand.
ACCESS: RIDE THE HANKYU-KYOTO LINE TO OMIYA STATION AND TAKE THE NUMBER 6 BUS TO TAKAGAMINE GENKOANMAE.
ACCESS: FROM NAMBA STATION, TAKE THE NANKAI LINE TO WAKAYAMASHI STATION. FROM THERE, IT’S A SHORT BUS RIDE OR 20-MIN WALK.
ACCESS: TAKE THE KEIHAN MAIN LINE TO DEMACHIYANAGI STATION AND TRANSFER TO THE EIZAN MAIN LINE FOR KURAMA.
ACCESS: HOP ON THE HANKYUTAKURAZUKA LINE AT UMEDA STATION AND CHANGE TO THE HANKYU-MINO LINE AT ISHIBASHI STATION.
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PHOTO: ARASHIYAMA, ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SALAWIN
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Brewery Adventures SAKE SENSEI’S
EACH ISSUE WE EXPLORE A DIFFERENT FACET OF THE COMPLEX WORLD OF JAPANESE SAKE AND ACCOMPANY SAKE GURU RAKUDO YOSHIDA ON A VISIT TO ONE OF KANSAI’S ICONIC BREWERIES.
SUPPORTED BY: THE JAPAN SAKE SOCIETY
TEXT: KS
S
Rakudo Yoshida is Chairman of the Japan Sake Society and has devoted the past 41 years of his life to supporting— and enjoying—Japanese sake, its brewers and associations. He also happens to be a certified laughter therapist.
PHOTOS: DANIEL LEE
SAKE SENSEI
ake is as complicated to the uninitiated as wine. Drink a glass of cheap acidic supermarket red and you may be put off for life. But sample a quality vintage and the likelihood is you will be hooked, beginning your own exploration of the incredible variety of wines produced the world over. The same equally applies to sake, or nihonshu (lit. Japanese alcohol) as it is proudly referred to in Japan. Knock back a few ill-advised cups of rough sake after a night of boozing, and the chances are you may regret it the next day, making a mental note to steer clear— possibly for life. Yet go out of your way to try some premium sake, and you’ll wonder what took you so long. As with wine, sake is both fundamentally simple, yet uniquely complex. Where wine is produced from fermented grapes, sake is produced from the laborious process of fermenting rice. The subtle differences in the rice used, to what degree it has been polished, the purity of the water, and the length of the fermentation process—to name but a few variables—results in an astonishing variety of styles. From bright, fruity daiginjo varieties, sparkling nigori, and even aged sake (koshu), whose deep amber hue and complex whiskey-like
depth will astonish you, there is an incredible array of tastes and styles to be discovered. It can be enjoyed hot (atsukan) or cold (reishu) and paired with a wide range of foods, including Western cuisine. Knowing which sakes to pair with which food takes practice, as does deciphering the labels on the bottles. Without an expert to hand, though, you will be generally safe with a junmai (lit. pure rice) ginjo or jumnmai daiginjyo—both premium, smooth drinking, aromatic sakes that have been made without any distilled alcohol added. At the end of the day, a lot of it comes down to personal preference. Our very own sake guru, Yoshida Sensei, recommends tasting as many varieties as you can to find the style that suits you best. Head to a reputable sake bar to begin your pursuit of sake happiness, or take a tour at one of the larger breweries in Kyoto or Hyogo that are open to the public and offer free tastings, such as those along the Nada Brewery Trail in Kobe. Happy exploring.
CERAMIC JUGS FILLED WITH KOSHU (AGED SAKE) FILL THE WAREHOUSE ATTIC AT TSUKINO KATSURA BREWERY
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KANSAI KURA CLOSEUP
Tsukino Katsura Masuda Tokube is the 14th-generation Masuda to head his traditional family-run sake brewery in Fushimi, Kyoto. He sports a fabulous bushy moustache and speaks with great enthusiasm about the business that has been left in his care. They started out as rice, sake, and soy-sauce merchants in 1675, before beginning to brew their own sake around 1870, during the Meiji Restoration sake-brewing reforms. In the 1950s, Tokube’s father discovered an Edo-era series of recipe books that detailed the lost art of ageing sake. He began storing away blends of the finest sakes together and preserving in specially designed 20-liter ceramic jars. A 10-year matured bottle would have cost around ¥10,000 in the 1960s. Fast forward to today, and a bottle of 50-year-old koshu sake—the oldest if its kind in existence in Japan—will set you back an eye-watering ¥3 million.
There have always been innovators at Tsukino Katsura. They shot to fame in 1964, after creating a new style of sake—a roughly filtered, milky-white nigori sake, bottled during the fermentation stage to create the first sparkling sake in Japan. Now, Tokube is getting in on the act too, taking the inspired decision to hire renowned graphic designer Issei Kitagawa of Graph to rebrand a few years back. To position themselves more favorably in the booming overseas market, he wanted to create an eye-catching logo mark that could be used in place of confusing traditional labels. Today, many of their best selling lines all carry the striking design—a modern reworking of their centuries-old traditional seal.
ABOVE: THE MASUDA’S RECENTLY RENOVATED RESIDENCE FEATURES A BEAUTIFUL BAR COUNTER (LEFT).
SENSEI SAYS IT ALL STARTED ABOUT 30 YEARS BACK WITH MY ENCOUNTER WITH MR. MASUDA AT A JAPANESE SAKE GATHERING. FIRST I WAS DRAWN BY HIS CHARACTER, THEN CHARMED BY THE TASTE OF TSUKINO KATSURA, AND BEFORE I REALIZED IT, THE ANNUAL TSUKINO KATSURA GATHERING HAD BECOME AN IMPORTANT DELIGHT THAT I LOOK FORWARD TO EVERY YEAR. EVER SINCE, THE TASTES OF TSUKINO KATSURA CONTINUE TO MESMERIZE AND SURPRISE ME EVERY TIME IN WAYS I COULDN’T HAVE IMAGINED BEFORE.
Masuda Tokubee Shoten Co., Ltd • Kyoto, Fushimi. • tsukinokatsura.co.jp
Sensei’s Selection 1. Hawayuu (How are you) Highly aromatic, with great depth, yet with a contrasting katana-like sharpness to it—an indulgence unmatched. Goes exceptionally well with funa-zushi (fermented sushi).
2. Iwai-Mai Jyunmai Daiginjo Nigorizake A pleasantly refreshing sensation delights the palate the moment this sparkling rice wine is savored. The elegant taste marries well with pork cutlet.
3. Junmai Ginjo “Yanagi”
4. Kasegi Gashira
5. Iwai 80%
A deep, tender flavor with a scent distinctive of junmai-shu (“pure rice sake”), it can be savored with any type of cuisine, but goes particularly well with traditional pickles.
A soft yet refreshing sourness that goes extremely well with cheese, prosciutto, and cantaloupe melon. Perfect as an aperitif or enjoyed in a sophisticated ambiance.
Packed with powerful rice overtones, as if one were savoring the rice itself, this is reminiscent of nihonshu in its truest form. Recommended well-cooled to accompany a good sizzling steak.
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DISCOVER
Obento
— JAPAN’S EDIBLE ART Where Japan’s famous lunchbox came from, and tips on making yours into a work of art. TEXT: LOUISE GEORGE KITTAKA
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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
LILY POND ADORABLE BROAD BEAN FROGS, CARROT GOLDFISH AND NORI TADPOLES. THE LILY PADS ARE CUT OUT FROM SHISO LEAVES.
“
Some of my friends asked me if I cut all the vegetables by hand. Well, the answer is—no way!”
PHOTOS: © YUKIKO IKEDA
M
ore than just a packed lunch, Japan’s bento—or obento if we are being polite—are as much a feast for the eyes as for the stomach. Nutritious, delicious, colorful and cute— obento tick all the right (lunch) boxes. The origins of the bento tradition are not quite clear, although it was established by the Edo period (1600— 1868). Bento were offered as convenient meals for theatergoers to enjoy while watching stage performances.
Officials took along a packed lunch when trekking from the old capital Edo (now Tokyo), where they were stationed, to their constituencies in other regions of Japan. Bento in the modern age are still generally prepared at home for family members to take to school and the office, or for outings such as cherryblossom viewing (hanami) or school sports day (undoukai). Those who are short on time can purchase bento at a supermarket or convenience store.
Regardless of who prepared it and who will eat it, bento generally is based around rice, either packed in one section of the box or shaped into onigiri (rice balls). The rest of the box is a mixture of meat or fish, vegetable side dishes, and garnishes. Care is taken that food is thoroughly cooked then cooled before adding it to the box, and everything is packed carefully to ensure the contents don’t shift in transit. Bento boxes are as varied as the contents, ranging from colorful plastic cases for preschoolers to el-
FISH DISH BEAUTIFUL KOI CARP MADE FROM DAIKONCOVERED RICE BALLS WITH NORI AND RED PEPPER FOR THE MARKINGS.
OPPOSITE: YUKI’S AWARD WINNING FLOWER BENTO.
egant wooden containers for the sophisticated city worker. Thanks to the Internet and the rise of “cool Japan” culture, the international community has embraced bento culture, and blogs are popping up all over the place. Earlier this year, an online contest sponsored by Kyotobased Bento & Co. attracted entries from 29 countries. Local bento artist Yuki Ikeda was the “Japan Grand Winner” in the firm’s annual Chef Bento competition. Ikeda spoke to Kansai Scene about her love of bento-making and offered some tips for those interested in sprucing up their own bento skills. Born and raised in Osaka, Ikeda has spent most of her life in Japan’s second city. Amazingly, she only began making bento seriously in March of last year. “I was getting tired of going out for lunch or buying bento at the convenience store all the time. I remember my
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LEFT: CUTESY RICEBALL CATS WITH NORI DETAILS ABOVE: THE BENTO AWAKENS…STAR WARS CHARACTER CHEWBACCA AS YOU’VE NEVER SEEN HIM BEFORE - MADE FROM CHICKEN!
Try it yourself first bento! Honestly, it didn’t look so great. It was very simple: three rice balls, tamagoyaki (egg roll), ginger pork, potato salad, pickled daikon radish and cherry tomato,” she recalls. After Ikeda starting uploading her bento photos on Instagram, she gradually developed a following. Earlier this year she was featured in a promotional video aimed at international visitors, “Gastro Fantasy,” as part of a tie-up between the Tokyo Tokyo site and National Geographic (tokyotokyo.jp/insighttokyo/NationalGeographic). For her entry in the Chef Bento Contest, Ikeda submitted a beautiful flower-themed bento for this year’s “Before & After” theme. “I came up with this idea of making a ‘Flower Sushi Bento.’ I thought everyone would be surprised if I turned usual sashimi slices into beautiful flowers.” The judges agreed.
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Many people imagine it takes a lot of time and effort to produce an “instabae” obento—one worthy of uploading on Instagram, but Ikeda says it isn’t that hard. How long does she spend on a typical bento? “Many of my friends have asked me that question. I like making my bento very colorful and fun! So, I always pick my side dishes by colors: red, green, yellow, black, etc. That way you can make an ‘instabae’ bento very easily. I usually spend from 30 to 45 minutes making one,” she explains. “Some of my friends asked me if I cut all the vegetables by hand. Well, the answer is—no way!”
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
RIGHT: THE RAW INGREDIENTS USED IN HER COMPETITION ENTRY.
For readers inspired to try and get creative, Ikeda has the following tips: Pick side dishes by colors.e.g. Red = tomato, red pepper, carrot, red cabbage, beets, radish; Yellow = egg, pumpkin, corn, sweet potato; Green = broccoli, lettuce, cabbage, okura, green pepper, asparagus; Black = eggplant, sesame, burdock, seaweed, beans; White = rice, onion, potato, mushroom, daikon, lotus root. Add a couple of cookie/vegetable cutters to your kitchen tools collection. There are so many of them available here in Japan.
KYARABEN KYARABEN (LIT. CHARACTER BENTOS) ARE MEANT TO ENCOURAGE FUSSY KIDS TO EAT UP THEIR LUNCHES AND LIFT THEIR SPIRITS AFTER A HARD MORNING IN KINDERGARTEN. THEY CAN BE A LOT OF FUN TO MAKE, BUT GO EASY ON THE PLASTIC ACCESSORIES.
Bento for Kids
© ANIITA JOHNSON-MIWA
by the season: Christmas = trees and presents, Easter = bunnies and eggs, Halloween = ghosts, pumpkins, and skeletons, etc. I also like to research what my girls are into. So Disney, Minions, Anpanman, animals, Hello Kitty, etc. all became a part of my bento theater!” Anita has the following tips for kids’ bento-making: “Start small—Anpanman is the easiest. Buy a good pair of tweezers for placing food and good scissors for cutting seaweed delicately. The 100-yen shop sells deco furi (colored rice seasoning) to help color (and flavor) your rice and to match character colors. Don’t over-buy the cute sticks and plastic accessories—I bought heaps and rarely use them!”
© ANIITA JOHNSON-MIWA
T
he first bento-making experience for many parents (most often mothers) is when their oldest child starts Japanese kindergarten. Many require a homemade bento at least part of the time, and the efforts put into the creation is supposed to make the child feel wrapped in maternal love when they lift the lid at lunchtime. Whether you buy into this part or not, daily bento making is a fact of life for many parents in Japan, and Australian mom-of-two Anita Johnson-Miwa is no exception. She explains that she enjoys being creative and goes “all out” for her daughters’ birthday parties with themed food and cakes. “It was only natural that when my eldest started kindergarten, I would dabble in bento making. It started as a dare to myself and ended up being an intensely addictive and interesting hobby,” she explains. “My bento is firstly inspired
TOP: YUKI’S PLAYFUL PANDAS RIGHT: SLEEPING COWS AND HALLOWEEN THEME LUNCHBOX BY ANIITA JOHNSON-MIWA
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FESTIVALS
JIDAI MATSURI
Festival of The Ages Take a tour of the ages through Japanese history at Kyoto’s Jidai Matsuri parade.
Oct 22 Jidai Matsuri KYOTO
PHOTOS: MAIN, ISTOCKPHOTO/COWARD_LION
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he colorful, costume-filled Jidai Matsuri is one of Kyoto’s three largest festivals. Held every year on October 22, it celebrates the city’s long history and fascinating traditional culture. The highlight of the day is the jidai gyoretsu (historic pageant) that follows a mikoshi (portable shrine) and an assembly of 2,000 costume-clad paraders wearing clothes representing various eras of Kyoto’s 1,200-year history. Participants are dressed in accurate costumes from almost every period of Japanese history, as well as of famous historical figures. The parade is sectioned by historical eras and then further separated by themes, of which there are around 20. The procession begins with characters from the Meiji Restoration in 1868, and then continues in reverse chronological order until the beginning of the Heian Period in 781. Starting at noon from Kyoto Gosho (Kyoto Imperial Palace) the parade travels for 4.6 kilometers along Oike Street and Sanjo Street, arriving finally at Heian Jingu at around 2:30 pm. There are plenty of photo opportunities for spectators as the line of parading people stretches over such a long distance that it takes more than an hour for the entire procession to pass one spot. This festival is an excellent chance to get a close look at traditional costumes and accessories of the people of Kyoto throughout the ages.
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
LOCATION: Heian Shrine, Kyoto
• DATE: Oct 22 • TIME: 12 Noon (Imperial Palace) (postponed in case of rain) • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Karasuma subway line, Marutamachi Stn (Imperial Palace); Tozai subway line, Higashiyama Stn, 15-min walk • kyokanko.or.jp/jidai
FESTIVALS
HORDES HEAVE THE DANJIRI With the fall season come the danjiri festivals in all their loud clanging, shrine-pulling splendor.
Sep 15 & 16
OSAKA LOCATION: Kishiwada Stn &
Surroundings • DATE: Sep 15 & 16 • TIME: 6am–10pm on Sep 15; 9am–10pm on Sep 16 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai line, Kishiwada Stn or Haruki Stn • city.kishiwada.osaka.jp/site/ danjiri
D
anjiri festivals are some of Japan’s most fun-to-watch rituals, and the most renowned of all of them happens every year in southern Osaka in the town of Kishiwada. The legendary Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri goes all the way back to 1703 when Kishiwada’s daimyo (feudal lord), Okabe Nagayasu, created a festival to pray to Shinto gods for an abundant harvest. A danjiri is a portable shrine on wheels, and the festival became a darling with the crowds because the locals were not usually permitted to enter the castle’s grounds, but for the danjiri festival, they were allowed inside to pull the portable shrines through the area. The rivalry that arose between neighborhood groups of men attempting to outdo each other in front of the powerful daimyo has been carried through the centuries and still very much exists in the
danjiri festivals of today. Small armies of young men from surrounding neighborhoods heave their intricately carved danjiri at high speeds before the crowds in the narrow streets of the town in an exhibition of strength and agility. The highlight of this race-like parade is the yarimawashi, when the danjiri makes a 90-degree turn at an intersection. These intersections are extremely popular viewing spots, and crowds of onlookers applaud when a seamless turn is completed. At dusk, the danjiri are illuminated with paper lanterns making for a calm, serene atmosphere—a real contrast to the high-energy action of the day. Anyone interested in discovering more about the festival can visit the Kishiwada Danjiri Kaikan Museum located near Kishiwada Castle.
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
PHOTOS: © KISHIWADA CITY
Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri
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What’s On Cultural SHINSENEN KYOGEN 神泉苑狂言（しんせんえんきょうげん）
Shinsenen Temple, Kyoto • Nov 2–4 In this classic Japanese performance art, masked actors entertain the audience with their animated gestures. Wearing colorful costumes and accompanied by gongs, flutes, and taiko drums, the actors perform at the historic Shinsenen temple. Kyogen, literally meaning “mad words,” is a traditional comedy that teaches Buddhist beliefs through comic stories. Unlike more widespread kyogen styles, all the actors wear masks and play without dialog in Shinsenen Kyogen. TIME: 6:30pm on Nov 2; 1pm & 6:30pm on Nov 3 & 4 • ADMISSION: Donations are appreciated • ACCESS: Kyoto Subway Tozai line, Nijojo-mae Stn, 2-min walk • shinsenen.org
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Osaka SELF MATSURI セルフ祭り
Shinsekai Shopping Arcade • Sep 15 & 16 Bright colors, extravagant costumes, and peculiar performances take place at this do-it-yourself festival at the Shinsekai shopping arcade area. A group of artists and the local community have joined hands to create a one-of-a-kind festival where everyone is encouraged to participate. Whether it be dressing up and joining the costume parade or performing some tunes at the openmic event, the festival encourages people to explore their sense of “self.” Experience the raw energy of Osaka as the arcade bursts with colorful creative energy. TIME: 10am–6pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Ebisucho Stn, 1-min walk; Osaka Subway Dobutsuenmae Stn, 8-min walk • self-matsuri.wixsite.com/selfmain
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SAKAI FESTIVAL 堺まつり
Sakai Stn & Surroundings • Oct 20 & 21 Held annually since 1974, this festival has become one of the three biggest festivals of the city. With a Pre-Parade Festival on the 21st, and the Grand Parade on the 22nd, locals flock to the streets of Sakai to see the diverse range of costumes. On both days, a large-scale tea ceremony takes place where visitors can casually experience the world of Japanese tea at an outdoor venue or in a tatami room. Hunt for local Sakai souvenirs at the Nambanichi Market happening alongside the festival. TIME: All day • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai line, Sakai Stn; Nankai Koya line, Sakaihigashi Stn • sakai-tcb.or.jp/s-matsuri
SHITENNOJI WASSO 四天王寺ワッソ
Naniwa-no-miya ato Park, Osaka • Nov 4 Wasso is a spectacular carnival commemorating the cultural exchange between Japan and other Asian countries. More than 1,000 participants
will reenact extravagant ceremonies held in those times. One of the highlights is the grand parade of ancient Chinese, Korean, and Japanese courtiers, which starts at 1:30pm. Thousands of costumed people will parade around the park while dancing to traditional music. Enjoy Korean and Japanese cuisine and don’t miss the chance to try on a traditional folk costume. A child-friendly area with Wasso-related activities will also be set up. TIME: 10:30am-5pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Osaka Subway Line, Tanimachi-4-Chome Stn, Exit 10, 5-min walk • wasso.net
12TH KANSAI QUEER FILM FESTIVAL 2018 IN OSAKA 第12回 関西クィア映画祭 2018 大阪
Step Toyonaka Gender Equality Promotion Center • Sep 22–24 The Kansai Queer Film Festival (KQFF) screens a wide range of films on the themes of gender, sexuality and equality from both Japan and all over the world. This year includes over 25 feature
and short films from 16 different countries and regions, and a special programme on deaf LGBTQ culture. All films will have Japanese subtitles. Some nonenglish films will have English subtitles TIME: From 11:00am • ADMISSION: Single tickets 1300 yen, Triple tickets 3400 yen, passes from 6800 yen (advance purchase) • ACCESS: Hankyu Toyonaka Stn • kansai-qff.org/2018/
OKUKAWACHI BOOON! 2018 奥河内ブーン！2018
(in Plaza Sakashita area) Kawachinagano-city, Osaka • Sep 29–30 Family cycling event in rural Kawachinagano, featuring various cyclocross races for all ages and abilities. Includes camping, a market (food, drink, goods etc.), and activities for kids. Time: 9/29(Sat) 9:00am-9pm, 9/30(Sun) 9:00am–4pm • Admission: Free (bike race entry ¥2000+/race , camping ¥2000+/ site ) • Access: Nankai & Kintetsu Kawachinagano Stn 5-min walk • okukawachi.link/
What’s On Cultural
See Kansaifinder.com for more
NADA NO KENKA MATSURI – FIGHTING FESTIVAL 灘のけんか祭り
Matsubara Hachiman Shrine, Hyogo • Oct 14 & 15 Three portable shrines are crashed into each other and seven grand floats are jostled by groups of men from different neighborhoods in Himeji as the crowds look on. “Kenka no matsuri” literally means “the fighting festival.” The dynamic action depicts a great battle from a mythological age. More than 100,000 people watch this exciting religious event every year. On the 15th, a spectacular performance takes place at a venue called Otabiyama where giant two-ton floats, partly broken at this point, are heaved at one another enthralling crowds of spectators. TIME: 11am on Oct 14, 9am on Oct 15 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Sanyo line, Shirahamanomiya Stn, 5-min walk • nadamatsuri.jp
Kyoto KURAMA FIRE FESTIVAL 鞍馬の火祭り
Yuki Shrine • Oct 22 In this ancient ceremony, which first began as a ritual to greet the arrival of the deity of Yuki-jinja, families light bonfires and the flaming torches are carried in a procession. Kurama is located in the mountainous area of northern Kyoto City. At 6pm, large flaming torches are lit in front of neighborhood homes. As children parade with smaller torches, men join in as they carry the larger torches that weigh up to about 80 kilograms and require more than two people to carry. The ceremony officially ends the following day when the two portable shrines are returned to Yuki Shrine. TIME: 6pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Eizan Densha line, Kurama Stn • yukijinjya.jp/himaturi.html
TENGU GOBLIN FEST 天狗の宴
Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple, Kyoto • Nov 11 Every year when the fall leaves turn, the magical
Japanese creature called the tengu comes down from Mt. Atago to Otagi Nenbutsuji, and a ritual to ward off evil spirits is performed. Shooting arrows in the air and loudly beating wooden clappers, five tengu – one blue-faced, one goldfaced, others multicolored – work vigorously to scare away the evil spirits. There will be a taiko drumming performance given by children before the ritual begins. There are also 1,200 Buddhist stone statues to see in this temple. TIME: 1pm–2:30pm • ADMISSION: ¥300 adults, concessions • ACCESS: Keihan line, Sanjo Stn, bus to Otagidera-mae • otagiji.com/page017.html
Hyogo NISHINOMIYA FESTIVAL 例祭 西宮まつり
Nishinomiya Shrine & Surroundings • Sep 21–23 A three-day celebration with a variety of rituals, ceremonies, and live performances, this event started in 2000 to honor the restoration of the city after the Great Hanshin Earthquake. On the 21st, traditional dance
performances and taiko drumming will take place. The following day, there will be a children’s procession at 3pm, and on the 23rd, a portable-shrine parade in the streets and a boat parade in the ocean will be held at Nishinomiya’s yacht harbor. TIME: 5pm Sep 21; 10am Sep 22 & 23 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Hanshin line, Nishinomiya Stn, South Exit, 7-min walk • nishinomiya-ebisu. com/index.html
CHINESE MID-AUTUMN FESTIVAL 第21回中秋節
Kobe Nankin-machi, Hyogo • Sep 22–24 Chinatown Kobe comes to life for the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival, also known as the Mooncake Festival. Come and join in on the festivities held at Nankin-machi, celebrating a time when the moon is at its fullest and brightest. Enjoy the atmosphere among the red and gold lanterns, have your fill of authentic Chinese cuisine, and be entertained by the plethora of cultural performances. On the 22nd and 23rd, traditional music, martial arts, a lion dance, and a dragon dance will be performed. On Sep 24, try the special
HIMEJI CASTLE – CASTLE OF LIGHT 姫路城 光の庭 CASTLE OF LIGHT
Himeji Castle, Hyogo • Nov 16–Dec 2 Enjoy a fabulous display of traditional and modern art works at Himeji Castle. In the evening, the castle grounds will be illuminated with beautiful lighting and guests will be wowed with projection-mapping art that narrates the historical background of the castle. At Sannomaru Square, a white heron that represents the castle because of its white exterior will fly through the historical scenes and architecture of the castle. An interactive exhibit will take place at Nishinomaru Garden (outside) and the Hyakken-Roka corridor (inside), as each visitor is given an LED-lit lantern that changes color by responding to the visitor’s location. The venue requires ¥1,000 for castle entry and during the evening from 6pm to 9pm, and the illumination event in the HyakkenRoka corridor costs an additional ¥500 per person. TIME: 6pm–9:30pm (until 9pm for Nishinomaru Garden and Hyakken-Rokka corridor) • ACCESS: JR Himeji Stn, 20-min walk • himejijyosaijiki. com/saijiki
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What’s On Cultural TAKATORI CASTLE SAMURAI FESTIVAL 第30回たかとり城まつり（たかとりしろまつり）
PHOTO: TAKATORI TOWN/TAKATORI TOURISM ASSOCIATION
Takatori Tosamachinami and Surroundings, Nara • Nov 23 Come and see this annual spectacle celebrating the history of the town and its castle. Preserving only the ruins of the fortress, it is reputed to be one of the three best mountain-top castles in Japan until today. The town will be covered in autumnal foliage, and a number of samurai-period attractions will be put on for visitors. There will be a matchlock gun demonstration, sword-drawing practice, and swordplay demonstrations. A samurai parade with armour-clad warriors and ladies in traditional costumes will move through the neighborhood. There will be traditional dance performances and a market. TIME: 10am-4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Tsubosakayama Stn, 10-min walk • sightseeing.takatori.info
UNEME – LADIES OF IMPERIAL COURT – FESTIVAL 采女祭り
PHOTO: NARA CITY TOURIST ASSOCIATION
Sarusawa Pond, Nara • Sep 23 & 24 A colorful water pageant will take place at the scenic Sarusawa-ike in Nara. Come and see the elegant boating parade held by ancient court people to appreciate the moon at its fullest and brightest. Legend has it that an uneme (court lady) threw herself into this pond in despair after falling out of favor with the Emperor. This event also takes place to comfort the spirit of the uneme. There will be an elaborate parade of people dressed in 8th-century attire from JR Nara Station through Sanjo-dori to the pond, followed by a religious ceremony and then the boating event. TIME: 5pm-9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR /
Kintetsu Line, Nara Stn • narashikanko.or.jp/ event/unemematsuri
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culinary dishes unique to this event at great prices. Nankin-machi’s very own mooncakes will be available for purchase throughout the three-day event. TIME: Depends on event • ADMISSION:
Free • ACCESS: JR / Hanshin line, Motomachi Stn, 5-min walk • nankinmachi.or.jp
Shiga HACHIMANBORI LANTERN FESTIVAL 八幡堀まつり～町並みと灯り～
Omi Hachiman • Oct 13 & 14 The historic town of Hachimanbori is famous for its beautiful canals, which will be illuminated with thousands of lanterns during this festival. Approximately 3,500 lanterns that use a combination of candles and LED lights will light up the streets and create an ambient atmosphere. Traditional houses around the neighborhood will be converted to live music venues, art galleries, markets, and cafes and will
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
be open to the public free of charge.
KUSATSU ILLUMINATION STREET
TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free •
草津街あかり•華あかり•夢あ かり
ACCESS: JR Omihachiman Stn, bus to Osugi-cho • omi8.com/topics/hmatsuri.htm
OTSU FESTIVAL 大津祭
Tenson Shrine & Surroundings • Oct 6 & 7 Thirteen magnificent hikiyama floats host performances of karakuri ningyo – Japanese mechanical puppets. Often described as ‘moving museums,’ the richly decorated hikiyama, with their valuable fabric, golden carvings, and lacquerworks, are alone worth coming to see. On the 6th, the neighborhood is adorned with lanterns which are lit after dark. Locals gather to appreciate the floats as local groups play festival music. The next day, the parade starts from 9:30am in the front of Tenson Shrine and tours the neighborhood over the course of the day. TIME: Dawn to 9pm Oct 6; 9:30am–6pm Oct 7 • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Otsu Stn, 3-min walk • otsu-matsuri.jp/home
JR Kusatsu Station & Surroundings • Nov 2 & 3 Handmade lights will shed a soft glow on the historic street all through the 1.5km from the station. At multiple locations, lights created by local school children and light installations designed by young artists will be on display. Local landmarks such as the Kusatsu Inn Headquarters and Jozenji Temple will also be lit up, and the shopping arcades will trade their regular electric lights to handmade lanterns. There will be live music and tasty food stalls. TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Kusatsu Stn, 5-min walk • kusatsu-machiakari.net
BIWAKO BIENNALE 2018 Omihachiman, Shiga • Sep 15–Nov 11 An area that once flourished with merchants, Omihachiman’s old town area is filled with historic Japanese-style buildings and is recognized as a preservation district for its cultural significance. This
What’s On Cultural PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAEKI SHINRYO, COSTUME BY UKAJI SHIHO
See Kansaifinder.com for more
ART FESTIVAL HANARART 2018 奈良•町家の芸術祭 はならぁと2018
Yoshino-chou Kuzu and 3 other areas, Nara • Sep 22–Feb 21 2019 Admire modern art on display in traditional Japanese houses at this unique art festival. Nara is full of old Japanese machiya (wooden houses) and these beautiful, often unoccupied buildings are repurposed as venues for installations and artworks during this event. Many of the houses have also been adapted for use as cafés and guesthouses. Meander through these historic streets and appreciate the spectacular modern artworks contrasted with the old streetscapes. The event will take place at the following four locations: Yoshinochou Kuzu (Core area), Kashihara (Plus area), Soni-mura and Yoshinochou Kamiichi (Around area). For details on location and schedule, check the website. TIME: 10am–4pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: (To main venue at Yoshino-chou Kuzu) Kintetsu Line, Yamato-Kamiichi Stn, shuttle bus available • hanarart.jp
TAKETOYA – A NIGHT OF 8,000 BAMBOO LIGHTS 竹燈夜 2018
is a rare opportunity to explore the Omihachiman area while appreciating contemporary art; works by 70 artists both in and out of Japan will be exhibited in the traditional Machiya architecture at multiple locations. Make sure to visit Zuiryuji Temple, a venue located on top of Mount Hachiman, which is accessible by taking the ropeway and equipped with a spectacular panoramic view of Shiga. TIME: 10am–5pm; closed on Tue • ADMISSION: Adults ¥2,200, Students ¥1,500 • ACCESS: JR line, Omihachiman Stn, bus to Osugi-cho Hachimanyama Ropeway • energyfield.org/biwakobiennale/en/ about
Nara CORRIDOR OF LIGHT & RED SPIDER LILY FESTIVAL IN ASUKA 飛鳥光の回廊•彼岸花祭
Asuka Village, Nara • Sep 22 & 23 With the beautiful red spider lilies in full bloom, now is the perfect time to visit Asuka Village during the annual Red Spider Lily Festival and Corridor of Light illumination event. The events will be held on the same days this year, so come for the brilliant red of the exotic flowers during the day, and stay for the gentle illuminations that light up the historic town at night. Palace sites, tumuli burial mounds, and old temples scattered around the village will be lit up with lights, candles, and lanterns after sundown. Workshops for children, various live performances, markets and many more activities are also scheduled to take place. TIME: Red Spider Lily Festival 10am4pm; Corridor of Light 6pm-9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Kintetsu Line, Kashiharajingu-mae Stn / Asuka Stn • asukamura.com
Wakayama BENKEI FESTIVAL 第32回弁慶まつり
Tokei Shrine & Surroundings • Oct 5 & 6 Tanabe City goes all out to host this annual festival celebrating the historic hero, Benkei, who was a warrior monk in 13th-century Japan. Depicted as a strong and loyal warrior, Benkei commonly appears in Japanese folktales. On the 5th at 6:30pm, the story of Benkei will be reenacted on stage at Tokei Shrine. The following day, a geta dance on Aoi Street will take place at 3pm and a fireworks display is scheduled at Ogigahama beach from 8pm. Releated events such as a Yosakoi dance performance and a market will also be held.
Wakayama Castle & Surroundings • Oct 6 & 7 Thousands of bamboo garden lanterns will be lit around the grounds of the iconic Wakayama Castle. The candles are lit and carefully placed into hollow bamboo stalks to create the lanterns which create a calm and relaxing environment. Spend a comfortable autumn eve in the soft ambient light enjoying various musical and art events in the area. TIME: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Nankai Line, Wakayamashi Stn, 10-min walk • taketouya.jp
TIME: Depends on event • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: JR Kiitanabe Stn, 10-min walk • kishu-benkei.com
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Sights & Attractions
Cupnoodles Museum OSAKA This offbeat museum in Ikeda, north of Osaka, pays tribute to Momofuku Ando, the inventor of the instant noodle. It’s lots of fun, with highlights being the world’s first instant noodle launched into space (to stop the noodles and liquid flying everywhere in zero gravity, the noodles are rolled into bite-sized balls and the soup is a thick gravy) and fantastic hands-on activities. For only 300 yen, you can design your own bespoke cup noodles (takes about 45 mins), and if you book ahead, you can learn to make chicken ramen from scratch in the kitchen on the second floor (about 90 mins). 8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda-shi, Osaka • cupnoodles-museum.jp
Osaka Museums
OSAKA SCIENCE MUSEUM Hands-on exhibits introduce themes on space and energy to all ages but the planetarium is the main draw here. Note: The museum will be closed for refurbishment from Dec 18 (to re-open in April 2019). 4-2-1 Nakanoshima, Kita Ward • TEL: 06-6444-5656
THE MUSEUM OF ORIENTAL CERAMICS, OSAKA Regarded as one of the best collections of ceramics in the world with over 7,000 items, this is a must-see museum for ceramic enthusiasts. Located in leafy Nakanoshima, next to the iconic Central Public Hall. Tel: 06-6223-0055
THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ART, OSAKA Housed beneath the Science Museum and instantly recognisable with its futuristic ground floor entrance, designed by Argentinian architect César Pelli, the NMAO features works from Cezanne and Picasso to contemporary artists. 4-2-55 Nakanoshima, Kita-ku • TEL: 066447-4680
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MUSEUM OF HOUSING AND LIVING
just 103m high, is dwarfed by the nearby Abeno Harukas.
This museum depicts everyday Osaka life as it was in the past, complete with a life sized, interactive recreation of an Edo era neighborhood you can explore!
1-18-6 Ebisu-higashi, Naniwa Ward
baths and spas in which to soak, as well as a large fun pool on its upper floors. Open 24 hrs.
Attractions
3-4-24 Ebisu-higashi Naniwa-ku • TEL: 06-6631-0001
Kita Ward, Tenjinbashi, 6-4-20 • TEL: 06-6242-1170
Monuments and Landmarks
OSAKA CASTLE If you visiting Osaka for the first time, then you are duty bound to visit this 400 year old castle in the beautiful grounds of the extensive Osaka Castle Park. The small museum inside offers a great insight into its history.
UMEDA SKY BUILDING One of the city’s most recognizable landmarks, the Floating Garden Observatory connecting its two towers offers 360-degree panoramic views. Kita-ku, Oyodonaka 1-1-88
ABENO HARUKAS Japan’s tallest skyscraper at 300m in height, is home to an observatory, art museum and hotel as well as hundreds of shops.
TSUTENKAKU TOWER One of Osaka’s most iconic landmarks, presiding over the Shinsekai area in Tennoji. There are observation decks on the 4th and 5th floors, although at
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OSAKA AQUARIUM KAIYUKAN One of the largest public aquariums in the world, with an amazing collection of marine life, including the popular whale shark tank and the mesmerising jellyfish. Allow several hours. 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 066576-5501 • kaiyukan.com
LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER OSAKA A great place for the kids to let off steam and explore the excellent LEGO activities, small rides and 4D cinema that form this indoor LEGO playground. Inside the Tempozan Marketplace shopping center next to the Osaka Aquarium. 1-1-10 Kaigandori, Minato-ku • TEL: 0800100-5346
UNIVERSAL STUDIOS JAPAN Giant movie-themed amusement park with thrills and spills for all ages, featuring characters from the Universal stable, including Harry Potter, Spiderman and the Minions. 2 Chome-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana Ward • usj.co.jp
SPA WORLD A giant hot spring theme park with a huge choice of fanciful
SILVER BALL PLANET Japan’s mecca for pinball machines, housing over 100 machines dating from the 1970s to the present day. Big Step 3F, Nishi-shinsaibashi 1-6-14 • silverballplanet.jp
Nara Museums
NARA NATIONAL MUSEUM Ranging over four buildings with wheelchair access, this museum holds treasures from the Nara period (710 to 784 AD), plus Buddhist and decorative art from around Japan with explanations in English.
NARA PREFECTURAL MUSEUM OF ART Nara’s main art museum has an extensive collection of Japanese art, with a focus on the Edo and Meiji eras. Exhibitions rotate every two to three months and explanations of most pieces are in English. There is a good museum shop and regular free workshops and activities for families. Free for seniors and for foreigners with ID.
Sights & Attractions
See Kansaifinder.com for more Monuments and Landmarks
NARA PARK A huge ancient park and the focal point for any visit to Nara. Droves of wild deer will follow you around as you explore the park’s stunning temples, gardens and museums, hoping you may feed them special deer crackers.
TODAIJI Todaiji Temple with its 15m high Buddha is the most prestigious of Nara’s seven great temples and draws a steady stream of visitors.
KASUGA-TAISHA SHRINE An ancient shinto shrine, famous for its stunning vermillion colored columns, is approached along an atmospheric forest path, lined with hundreds of stone lanterns.
Kyoto
Monuments and Landmarks
NIJO CASTLE
Museums
KYOTO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART A great collection of both Japanese and western modern art, with some excellent temporary exhibitions. Across the road from the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art. Sakyo Ward, Okazaki Enshojicho, 26−1 • TEL: 075-761-4111
KYOTO NATIONAL MUSEUM One of Japan’s oldest museums, housing a permanent collection of Japanese artefacts, treasures and artworks. 527 Chayacho, Higashiyama-ku • TEL: 075-525-2473
Built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Nijo castle is famous for its squeaky “nightingale” floorboards, that forewarned of intruders. Includes the beautiful Ninomaru Palace Garden. 541 Nijojocho, Nakagyo Ward
Attractions
GEAR A long-running non-verbal theater show that continues to delight all ages, that mixes mime, dancing, magic, juggling and contemporary special effects. 1928 Blg. 3F, 56 Benkeiishi-cho, Nakagyoku • TEL: 075-254-6520
TOEI KYOTO STUDIO PARK Lots of fun to be had at this old Edo-themed movie park. With a brilliant ninja show, fun staged samurai fights and the chance to dress up as you wander the faux Edo-era streets, it’s a great afternoon out.
Kyoto Railway Museum
10 Uzumasa Higashihachiokacho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto • toei-eigamura.com
KYOTO
KYOTO AQUARIUM
This 30,000 square meter space opened in 2016, to replace the former Umekoji Steam Locomotive Museum. It features 53 engines, ranging from the Japan’s oldest steam locomotive to more recent shinkansen models, some train simulators and interactive dioramas that the kids will go crazy for, and a well-stocked gift shop. Adjacent to the Umekoji Park, about 20 mins walk (or 10 minute bus ride) from Kyoto Station. A must for train buffs of all ages.
A modern aquarium in Umekoji Park, with aquatic creatures presented across twelve different themed areas. Great for a rainy-day activity or for families with young children. Also convenient for the Railway Museum.
Kankijicho, Shimogyo-ku • kyotorailwaymuseum.jp
35-1 Kankijicho, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto • kyoto-aquarium.com
character Anpanman. Great for young kids. 1-6-2 Higashikawasaki-cho, Chuo-ku • Tel: 078-341-8855 Monuments and Landmarks
HIMEJI CASTLE Perched upon a hill where its towers can be seen for miles, this picturesque fortress is nicknamed Shirasagi-jo (“White Heron Castle”) because of its brilliant, white exterior and unique tower structuring. Himeji-shi, 68 Honmachi
Attractions
NUNOBIKI HERB GARDENS & ROPEWAY Enjoy the stunning ropeway ride, before exploring the charming strolling herb gardens and greenhouse exhibits at the top of Mt. Rokko, tha affords sweeping views across the city below. Restaurant on-site. Chuo-ku Kitanocho 1-4-3 • TEL: 078-2711160
Shiga Museums
MIHO MUSEUM A stunning museum, designed by renowned architect I. M. Pei and located far from the crowds in the hills around Shigaraki, requires a bit of a trek to reach, but is absolutely worth it. Named after Koyama Mihoko, one of the richest women in Japan and the founder of the museum. Shigaraki, Tashiro Momodani 300 • miho.jp
Hyogo
Monuments and Landmarks
ENRYAKUJI
Museums
KOBE FASHION MUSEUM Japan’s first museum dedicated to the world of fashion, situated on Rokko Island, housing a large public library on its 3rd floor.
PHOTO: JEAN-YVES TERREAULT
2-9-1 Koyochonaka, Higashinada Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-858-0050
KOBE ANPANMAN CHILDREN’S MUSEUM & MALL
Sitting atop Mt.Hiei and accessible by cable car, the UNESCO World Heritage site Enryakuji, is the sacred home of the Tendai monks and is simply stunning during the fall leaves season.
HIKONE CASTLE One of the best preserved examples remaining in Japan, this picturesque 400-year-old castle overlooks Lake Biwa in the small city of Hikone.
Fun museum and play area in Kobe’s Harborland area, dedicated to the surreal world of popular Japanese children’s
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What’s On Art & Exhibitions Ryohei Koiso Exhibition
《道》1950年、東山魁夷、東京国立近代美術館蔵
Kobe City Koiso Memorial Museum of Art • Until Nov 25
小磯良平Koiso Ryohei《練習場の踊子達》Dancers in the studio 1938年 油彩・キャンバス Oil on canvas 191.0×180.0cm 東京国立近代美術館蔵 The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo
Higashiyama Kaii Retrospective 1908– 1999
Ryohei Koiso Exhibition • OPEN: 10am–5pm • CLOSED: Mon • ADMISSION: ¥800 • ACCESS: Rokko Liner, Island Kitaguchi Stn, short walk • TEL: 078-857-5880 • city.kobe.lg.jp/culture/ culture/institution/koisogallery/information
The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto • Until Oct 8
Higashiyama Kaii is considered to be one of the most influential Japanese painters of the postwar period. He graduated from the Tokyo School of Fine Arts and studied briefly in Germany before he was drafted in the Pacific War. Although the artist faced a litany of heartbreaking challenges during this time, his travels inspired a love of landscapes. After the war, Higashiyama painted a series of masterpieces, including Afterglow and Road, imbuing them with the ethos and love for nature inherent in Japanese culture. This exhibition commemorates the 110th birthday of Higashiyama with a showing of approximately 80 important pieces spanning the painter’s career. This is the first large-scale retrospective of his work to be held in Kyoto in 30 years. Higashiyama Kaii Exhibition • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (until 9pm Fri & Sat) • CLOSED: Mon (if Mon is a holiday, the following Tue) • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • ACCESS: Tozai subway line, Higashiyama Stn, 10-min walk • TEL: 075- 761-4111 • momak.go.jp/English/ index.html • kaii2018.exhn.jp/
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Kobe native Ryohei Koiso enjoyed success early in his art career after graduating from the Tokyo University of the Arts in 1927 and studying in Europe. During World War II he was often commissioned to paint Japanese military scenes, but returned to mainstream painting following the conclusion of the war. His works often demonstrated Western painting techniques and centered on motifs involving religion, women, and the human form. This exhibition, held 30 years after Koiso’s death, is comprised of a number of the artist’s masterpieces, as well as pieces by contemporary Western artists whose artworks were also inspired by the events of the 20th century.
Osaka YUZO SAEKI & RYOHEI KOISO EXHIBITION Sanno Art Museum This exhibition is being held in commemoration of artists Yuzo Saeki and Ryohei Koiso on the 90th and 30th anniversaries of their deaths, respectively. Both artists, who focused mainly on Western painting styles, incorporated their own unique perspectives into their works and made significant contributions to the Japanese art realm. Until Jan 31, 2019 • OPEN: 11am–5pm • CLOSED: Sat, Sun & holidays • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: JR Namba Stn, 1-min walk • TEL: 06-6645-7111 • hotelmonterey.co.jp/ sannomuseum
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
STILL REMAINED – MISATO KURIMUNE Tezukayama Gallery Multimedia artist Misato Kurimune presents her third exhibition with over 60 works focusing on the information overload that permeates modern culture within the themes of beauty and the essence of art. Kurimune creates the majority of her pieces by applying drawings over a base medium of photography. Until Oct 13 • OPEN: 12pm–7pm • CLOSED: Sun, Mon & holidays • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Yotsubashi subway line, Yotsubashi Stn, 5-min walk • TEL: 06-6534-3993 • tezukayama-g.com/en
Kyoto FOUJITA: A RETROSPECTIVE COMMEMORATING THE 50TH ANNIVERSARY OF HIS DEATH The National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto Léonard Tsuguharu Foujita was a Japanese painter from the Meiji era who moved to France and became a prominent member of the École de Paris in the first half of the 20th century. He eventually managed to get French citizenship and lived out the rest of his days in Europe. This year the National Museum of Modern Art in Kyoto is honoring the 50th anniversary
of Foujita’s death with a major retrospective spanning the breadth of his entire artistic career. View a chronological display of major works from each period of Foujita’s life, including landscapes, portraits, nudes, and religious motifs. Until Dec 16 • Foujita Retrospective • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm (until 8pm Fri & Sat) • CLOSED: Mon • ADMISSION: ¥1,500 • ACCESS: Tozai subway line, Higashiyama Stn, 10-min walk • TEL: (075)761-4111 • momak.go.jp/English
What’s On Art & Exhibitions
©CHRONO NANAE / MAG GARDEN
Peacemaker Kurogane Original Artwork Exhibition Kyoto International Manga Museum • Until Nov 6
New Wave: Japanese Contemporary Art of the 1980s The National Museum of Art, Osaka • Until Jan 20th, 2019
The 1980s ushered in a time of transformation for Japanese contemporary art. A new generation of artists entered the scene who valued a more personal brand of expression than artists from the previous era. This exhibition presents a wide range of works from this period. 1980s Art Exhibition • OPEN: 10am–5pm (until 8pm Fri & Sat) • CLOSED: Mon • ADMISSION: ¥900 • ACCESS: Keihan Nakanoshima line, Watanabebashi Stn, 5-min walk • TEL: 06-6447-4680 • nmao.go.jp/en
Hyogo
Wakayama
TARTAN EXHIBITION
AKIO SUZUKI – STUDIES IN SONORITY AND SPACE
Kobe Fashion Museum Tartan is a checkered cross-stitched pattern that originated in Scotland and is now used in textiles around the world. In this exhibition, a variety of sophisticated tartan designs is on display, accompanied by explanations of the historical background of tartan works. Until Nov 11 • OPEN: 10am–6pm • CLOSED: Mon • ADMISSION: ¥1,000 • ACCESS: Rokko Liner, Island Center Stn, short walk • TEL: 078-858-0050 • fashionmuseum.or.jp/english
The Museum of Modern Art, Wakayama Akio Suzuki is known for his work as a pioneer of sound art. He creates emotional experiences through installations that reflect and intertwine music, the sounds of nature, and more. This exhibition consists of a selection of Suzuki’s works created over the entire span of his career. Until Oct 21 • OPEN: 9:30am–5pm • CLOSED: Mon • ADMISSION: ¥340
This year marks the 150th anniversary of the Meiji Restoration, a time of enormous change to Japan’s political and social structure. Peacemaker Kurogane is a manga written by Nanae Chrono that takes place just before the Meiji Era, when the seeds of revolution were being planted. The story is focused on the main character, Tetsunosuke Ichimura, who is an energetic teenage boy seeking revenge for the brutal
murder of his parents. The plot covers aspects of history not included in official accounts, providing an alternative perspective to readers. In this exhibition, more than 100 original works created for the manga will be on display alongside related materials. Peacemaker Kurogane Exhibition • OPEN: 10am–6pm (until 8pm Sep 15 & 16, last entry 30 mins before closing) • CLOSED: Wed • ADMISSION: Free • ACCESS: Karasuma subway line, Karasuma Oike Stn, 6-min walk • TEL: 075-254-7414 • kyotomm.jp/en
• ACCESS: JR Wakayama Stn, bus to Kencho-mae stop, 2-min walk • TEL: 073-436-8690 • momaw.jp/ language/english
MASK. OLMEC. RIO PESQUERO, VERACRUZ, MEXICO 900-600 BC. JADE. H.17.0CM W.16.5CM DEP.9.0CM
MANABU NAKANISHI, THE ROCK’IN BAND: THE GUITAR MAN, 1985, COLLECTION OF THE ARTIST PHOTO: SHIGERU JUFUKU COURTESY OF THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, SHIGA
See Kansaifinder.com for more
Shiga ANCIENT CIVILIZATIONS OF THE AMERICAS THE HUMAN AND THE SUPERNATURAL Miho Museum The indigenous civilizations that inhabited the vast lands of North and South America during ancient times produced deeply spiritual works in honor of their deities. The styles portrayed in these
pieces has influenced the creation of modern-day art around the world. This display consists of a collection of these pieces. Until Oct 8 • OPEN: 10am–5pm • CLOSED: Mon • ADMISSION: ¥1,100 • ACCESS: JR Biwako line, Ishiyama Stn, Teisan bus • TEL: 0748-82-3411 • miho.or.jp/en
Need more Art? See complete listings online at kansaifinder.com
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What’s On Live Music THE KILLERS Sep 13 The Killers—taking their name from a logo on the bass drum of a fictitious band portrayed in the music video for the New Order song Crystal—formed in Las Vegas in 2001. The current lineup of Brandon Flowers (lead vocals, keyboards, bass), Dave Keuning (lead guitar, backing vocals), Mark Stoermer (bass, rhythm guitar, backing vocals), and Ronnie Vannucci Jr. (drums, percussion) have been together since 2002. Making their recording debut with the new-wave post-punk album Hot Fuss, and hitting the top spot in the UK album charts, the band has released five studio
Rock & Pop BENNY SINGS Sep 18 City Melody Release Tour, Dutch artist Tim van Berkestijn Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Pop • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,500/¥7,500 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
MARILLION
albums to date. The most recent is last year’s release Wonderful Wonderful, which was the band’s fifth consecutive UK number one, and their first to reach that goal on the US Billboard album charts. Existing fans will be aware that although Stoermer and Keuning are still band members, they are not currently touring members. US rock band from Las Vegas since 2001 • Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥11,000/¥15,000 TEL: 0570-200-888
MIYUKI WATANABE
CORNELIUS
Sep 21 Ex-AKB48 idol first solo live
Oct 5 Japanese musician Keigo Oyamada
Namba Hatch, Osaka • J-Pop • 7pm • ¥5,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888
RAFVEN Sep 26 Swedish gypsy punk band Shangri-La, Osaka • Folk-punk • 8pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
BATI-HOLIC
Sep 13 British classic prog-rock band
Sep 27 Japanese traditional drums and punk rock
Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥13,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888
Taku Taku, Kyoto • Rock • 6:45pm • ¥2,800/¥3,300 • TEL: 075-351-1321
THE KILLERS Sep 13 U.S. rock band from Las Vegas since 2001 Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock • 7pm • ¥11,000/¥15,000 • TEL: 0570200-888
COCOA TEA & DIANA KING Sep 14 Jamaican singers Calvin George Scott & Diana King Shinsaibashi Sunhall, Osaka • Reggae • 6:30pm • ¥5,500 • TEL: 06-6213-7077
KINOKO TEIKOKU
PERFUME Sep 29 & 30 Japanese-pop vocal trio
MELODIC METAL NIGHT Oct 7 Featuring Edu Falaschi “Rebirth of Shadows” & The Dark Element Muse, Esaka • Metal • Time:TBA • ¥:TBA • TEL: 06-6387-0203
YO LA TENGO Oct 8 US indie-rock band since 1992 Club Quattro, Osaka • Indie • 6pm • ¥6,500 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
BAND-MAID
Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Pop • 6pm Sep 29; 5pm Sep 30 • ¥8,100 • TEL: 0570-200-888
Oct 10 Japanese maid-themed rock band
KINOCO HOTEL
Namba Hatch, Osaka • Rock • 5:30pm • ¥4,500 • TEL: 0570-200-888
Oct 1 Japanese group sounds rock band Taku Taku, Kyoto • Group sounds/ rock • 7pm • ¥3,000/¥3,500 • TEL: 075-351-1321
STEPHEN BISHOP
Sep 20 Japanese shoe-gazing pop trio
Oct 5 US singer-songwriter and guitarist
Namba Hatch, Osaka • Indie • 7pm • ¥4,000 • TEL: 06-6882-1224
Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Pop-rock • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥7,500/¥8,500 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
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Orix Theater, Osaka • Shibuya-kei • 7pm • ¥7,800 • TEL: 06-6357-3666
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
TAHITI 80 Oct 10 French indie-pop band Club Quattro, Osaka • Indie • 7:30pm • ¥7,000 • TEL: 06-6311-8111
MISIA Oct 10 Japanese singer-songwriter Osaka Festival Hall, Osaka • R&B-pop • 7pm • ¥8,800 • TEL: 0570-200-888
SAM SMITH Oct 15 British soul-pop singer-songwriter Samuel Frederick Smith made his breakthrough as a guest vocalist on the UK hit single Latch by the electronic duo Disclosure in 2012. From there, he went on to release his 2014 debut album In the Lonely Hour, which featured three number-one UK singles (Lay Me Down, Money on My Mind, and Stay with Me). Winning a number of Grammys and Brit Awards in 2015, his second studio album was two years further down the line in late 2017—The Thrill of It All—and was a chart-topping success in both the UK and US. Citing artists such as Adele and Amy Winehouse as his main influences, in an interview with Rolling Stone, Smith said, “I actually didn’t listen to male vocalists until about two years ago. I just listened to Whitney Houston, Chaka Khan. Massive voices.” Sam Smith comes to Japan as part of his global tour promoting the new album on which the Japanese version features two bonus tracks— Leader of The Pack and Blind Eye. British soul-pop singer-songwriter • Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Singer-songwriter • 7pm • ¥10,000/¥24,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888
What’s On Live Music
See Kansaifinder.com for more BENNY SINGS Sep 18 Benny Sings is a Dutch pop artist. Since 2003, he has released seven studio albums with Champagne People and his latest Beat Tape being released this year. Benny cites US musician Michael Franks as a major influence on his music (Franks is seen as a pioneer of the quiet-storm music genre, a style of contemporary R&B, jazz fusion, and pop music that began in the mid-70s). As well as his own music, Benny has been playing bass in the hiphop band Abstract Dialect and composing and producing with the soul band Heavenly Social.
MONGOL800 Oct 11 Japanese punk trio from Okinawa Namba Hatch, Osaka • Punk • 7pm • ¥4,300 • TEL: 06-6357-3666
RATBOYS Oct 13 US indie-rock band from Chicago Pangea, Osaka • Indie Rock • 6:30pm • ¥3,500/¥4,000 • TEL: 06-4708-0061
OLDCODEX Oct 15 Japanese rock and animetheme-music band Zepp Osaka Bayside, Osaka • Rock-pop • 6:30pm • ¥5,500 • Tel: 0570-200-888
SAM SMITH Oct 15 British singer-songwriter Osaka Jo Hall, Osaka • Pop • 7pm • ¥10,000/¥24,000 • TEL: 0570-200-888
THE MUGGLES Every Fri & Sat Mellow ballads, classic rock, and dynamic rock n roll from Osaka-based jamming band Woodstock Café, Ashiya • Group Sounds • Entrance Free (¥2,000 for 2 drinks + snack) • TEL: 07-9734-1044
Jazz & Blues THE REAL GROUP Sep 20 A cappella group from Sweden
He is also a part of the Dutchlanguage hip-hop collective De Toffen. Benny Sings’ popularity globally has been steadily growing, and in a 2015 article The Huffington Post named him “the best singer you don’t know.” In 2017, he won the Zabut 2017 Award for Best Original Soundtrack for the music he did on the animated film Zeezucht. Dutch musician Tim Van Berkestjin • Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Pop • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,500/¥7,500 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • Jazzpop • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,500/¥7,500 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
Club Quattro, Osaka • Jazz • 7pm • ¥6,800 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
WILKO JOHNSON
World
Sep 21 British rock-blues guitarist with bassist Norman WattRoy
YOSHIDA BROTHERS
Club Quattro, Osaka • Rock blues • 8pm • ¥6,500 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
Oct 11 Japanese shamisen duo
TONY MONACO, YOSUKE ONUMA, & GENE JACKSON
Billboard Live OSAKA, Osaka • World • 6:30pm/9:30pm • ¥6,900/¥7,900 • TEL: 06-6342-7722
Sep 25 Organ, guitar, and drums jazz-funk trio
Classical
Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • Jazz-funk • 7pm/9pm • ¥4,320/¥6,800 • TEL: 06-6342-5821
ISABELLA LUNDGREN Sep 27 Swedish jazz vocalist Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • Jazz • 7:30pm/9pm • ¥6,000/¥6,500 • TEL: 06-6342-5821
PAT MARTINO
RAFVEN
ALICE SARA OTT Sep 18 German classical pianist Osaka Festival Hall, Osaka • Classical • 7pm • ¥3,500/¥9,500 • TEL: 0570200-888
LONDON SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA
Oct 2 American jazz-fusion guitarist
Sep 23 Conducted by Sir Simon Rattle
Mister Kelly’s, Osaka • Jazz • 7pm/9:30pm • ¥8,500 • TEL: 06-63425821
Osaka Festival Hall, Osaka • Classical • 2pm • ¥9,000/¥58,000 • TEL: 066231-2221
JOHN BUTLER TRIO
IL DIVO
Oct 3 Australian singersongwriter & musician
Sep 26–28 Multinational classicalcrossover vocal group
Big Cat, Osaka • Roots • 7:30pm • ¥6,700 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
Orix Theater, Osaka • Classicalcrossover • 6:30pm • ¥11,000/¥15,000 • TEL: 06-6341-4506
GOGO PENGUIN Oct 5 British avant-garde jazz trio
Sep 29 Imagine the Sex Pistols were influenced by East European folk music and they played double bass, accordion, brass, violin, and mandolin; fast-paced gypsy folk with a punk attitude—then you have the Swedish band Rafven. Formed in 2003, apparently as a reaction to the Iraq war, the band was voted (by Tower Records) as best act at 2009 Fuji Rock Festival. Their latest album is the 2015 Bring Back the Dinos, and they claim that this, their sixth album, is “dedicated to revitalize dance floors and energize political action against the reemerging fascism.” Rafven is an eight-piece band featuring guitar, saxophone, tambura, accordion, trombone, double bass, violin, and percussion. Of their live performances, the Gothenburg Post wrote, “They boil, bubble, and pour off sweat. They jump, shout, and dance. And honestly, the person who can resist eight jumping jacks spreading this much energy, joy, and love – that person is dead inside.” Swedish gypsy punk band • Shangri-La, Osaka • Folk-punk • 8pm • ¥6,000 • TEL: 06-6535-5569
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What’s On Clubs & Nightlife Sep 1 (SAT) & 2 (SUN)
TARUI SOUTHERN BEACH In one last beachside bonanza for 2018, it’s time for the biggest EDM festival in Kansai—Music Circus! This year’s headliners are the Dutch House DJ R3hab and the Australian DJ/instrumentalist Timmy Trumpet. They will be supported by Borgeous, Garmiani, and a who’s who of international DJs. If you’re looking to hear some popular Japanese DJs, you can check out DJ Souljah and special guests. In total, more than 40 international and Japanese artists will play over two days. The closest station to the festival is Nankai Tarui, which is about 50 minutes from Namba Station. For more information and the full lineup, check the festival’s website. Don’t miss your last chance to dance on the beach this year! Music Circus 2018 (EDM) • DJS: R3hab, Timmy Trumpet, Headhunterz, Tjr, Borgeous, Garmiani, Kungs, Martin Jensen, Yoji Biomehanika + more • OPEN: 10am–9pm • ADMISSION: 1-Day Pass ¥9,800; 2-Day PASS: ¥17,500 • WHERE: Sennan City • TEL: 0570-200-888 • music-circus.jp TIMMY TRUMPET
September
WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
1 (SAT)
Ravers United (Rave/ Happy Hardcore)
SURF DISCO CAULIFLOWER Kiki Kaikai (Techno/ Tribal) DJS: Daichi, Mongoose, Piper, Chari + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6484-3110 • bar-cauliflower.com
CIRCUS DJ Ageishi 2man All Night Long (House) DJS: Sekitova, Ageishi • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,600/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 066241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
JOULE Kitsuné Club Night (Electro/Disco/House) DJS: Moon Boots, Pat Lok + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,600/1D (ADV: ¥3,100/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 066214-1223 • club-joule.com
METRO Bongbros Records presents Born Free #21 (Alternative Hip Hop) ACTS: Bongbros, Surry, Endrun,
Racy, Hybrid Brothers, Gajiroh, Dan, Zero + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,500/1D; W/ F: ¥2,500/1D) •
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NYA BINGHI Yama no Oto: The Sound of Mountains (Ambient/ Experimental) LIVE: Ayu, Andy Couzens, Standard
DJS: Makoto, Massive + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 075-212-1173 • surfdisco.jp
Grey, Cheekbone • OPEN: 6pm–9pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D • WHERE: Nara, Mt. Ikoma • TEL: 0743-73-0805 • facebook.com/ nyabinghi.ikoma
TROOP CAFE
7 (FRI)
Diatonik 10th Anniversary (House/Techno)
ALZAR
DJS: Ogawa, Tatsuo Y, Mariko,
Taiki, Batch + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D • WHERE: Kobe • TEL: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe.jp
WEST HARLEM Syn-C feat. Mayurashka (House) DJS: Mayurashka, Torei, Toshiki,
Suguru + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 050-1016-0099 • kyotosalsa.com • FACEBOOK: westharlem
2 (SUN)
CIRCUS Drawing (Electronica/ Downtempo) ACTS: Daisuke Tanabe, Lycoriscoris, Saskiatokyo, Metome, Kafuka + more • OPEN: 7pm–1am • ADMISSION: ¥2,600/1D (ADV: ¥2,100/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
Psychedelic Friday (Psychedelic Trance) DJS: Doppelgenger, Hentai Camera, Amartman, Hsk + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,500/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 0906960-8527 • alzar.jp
METRO Do it Jazz! with Kyoto Flava Unit (Jazz/ Crossover) LIVE: Kyoto Flava Unit • DJS:
Masaki Tamura, Kazuhiro Inoue, Naoki Yoda + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D (STUDENTS: ¥1,500/1D) • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
8 (SAT)
CIRCUS Shadow Game vol.2 (Psychedelic/Ambient) DJS: Nukleall, Buzz, Yuya, Yuki, Gacky + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,6 00/1D • WHERE:
Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
GARDEN BAR Pole Dancer Kuro x A.a.m.m Crew presents Tiramisu! vol.10 Goodbye summer Pole Dance Night! (Reggae/ Reggaeton/Jungle/Hip Hop) DJS: D.p.t, Monogots a.k.a. MC
Nmdb, 5364 + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: Gentlemen ¥3,000/1D; Ladies ¥2,000/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6212-5552 • iflyer.tv/ja/ venue/3507
14 (FRI)
METRO Reynold (Trenton Records/Berlin) & Daniel M. (Separate Skills/ Frankfurt) in Kyoto (Tech House/Deep Tech) • DJs: Reynold, Daniel M, Ryoma Sasaki + more • Open: 10pm • Admission: ¥2,500/1D • Where: Kyoto • Tel: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
15 (SAT)
NOON + CAFE Deeperama (Deep House/Techno) DJS: Sprinkles a.k.a. Terre Thaemlitz, Mitsuki, Yor + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,400/1D • WHERE: Umeda • TEL: 06-63734919 • noon-cafe.com
SOCORE FACTORY Modulation Now! (Techno) ACTS: Cem, Yazi, Bucco, Spinnuts • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6567-9852 • socorefactory.com
TROOP CAFE Bush feat. Junki Inoue (Minimal House/Techno) DJS: Junki Inoue, Soichi, Ebo • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • WHERE: Kobe • TEL: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe.jp
WEST HARLEM Outer Space 10th Anniversary (Deep House) DJS: Ageishi, Nobu, Hayase, Rin + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥1,500/1D (Enter by MIDNIGHT: ¥1,000/1D) • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 050-1016-0099 • kyotosalsa.com FACEBOOK: westharlem
16 (SUN/BEFORE HOLIDAY)
TRIANGLE Rave Clash Fest – All Japan Raves Alliance – (Hardcore/Hardstyle/ Rave) ACTS: Shimamura, Kors K, Rough Sketch, Wataru, Horn, Numb’n’dub + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,000/1D (ADV: ¥3,500/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6212-2264 • triangleosaka.com
See Kansaifinder.com for more 17 (MON/HOLIDAY)
METRO Laraage Japan Tour in Kyoto Supported by Soto/ Meditations (Experimental/ Ambient) ACTS: Laraage + more • OPEN:
6:30pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥5,000 (ADV: ¥4,500) • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
18 (TUE)
MOVE Feel – Special feat. Kim Lightfoot (Deep House/ Garage/Dance Classics) DJS: Kim Lightfoot, K-Suke, Rin, Kimpa • OPEN: 8pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (W/flyer ¥2,500/1D; W/ Student ID ¥2,000/1D; Foreigners ¥2,000/1D) • WHERE: Shiga • TEL: 077523-3870 • club-move.com
21 (FRI)
NOON + CAFE Moldive (Bass/Techno)
DJS: Detroit Swindle, Yashima, Shirakawa, Seiichi Takamatsu, Taihei Koyama + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (ADV: ¥2,000/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 0906960-8527 • alzar.jp
METRO Stefan Goldmann & Stefak in Kyoto 2018(tech House/ Minimal/Modular Synth) ACTS: Stefan Goldmann, Stefak, Ryoma Sasaki + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • WHERE: Kyoto • TEL: 075-752-2787 • metro.ne.jp
28 (FRI)
CIRCUS Ellen Allien Japan Tour 2018 Osaka (Techno) DJS: Ellen Allien + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,100/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
29 (SAT)
CIRCUS
MOVE Harmony Special feat. Victor Rosado (Deep House/ Garage/Dance Classics) DJS: Victor Rosado, K-Suke, Tocchi • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,500/1D (W/flyer ¥3,000/1D; W/Student ID ¥2,000/1D; Foreigners ¥2,000/1D) • WHERE: Shiga • TEL: 077-523-3870 • club-move.com
TROOP CAFE Delicious Sound feat. Zozo (Disco/House) DJS: Zozo, Takeshi Kouzuki,
Masafumi Onishi + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,000/1D (Mail RESERVATION: ¥1,000/1D) • WHERE: Kobe • TEL: 078-321-3130 • troopcafe. jp
23 (SUN/BEFORE HOLIDAY)
ALZAR One feat. Detroit Swindle (House)
COMPUFUNK RECORDS DJS: Stefan Goldmann, Compufunk +
more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: TBA • WHERE: Kitahama • TEL: 06-6314-6541 • compufunk.com
JOULE Outer Kochi presents. Osaka Clubz Supported by Cocalero (Bass/Techno/ Trap) DJS: Soda, Seiho, Katie Cooper, Imotenohira + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥4,600/1D (ADV: ¥3,600/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-62141223 • club-joule.com
8 (MON/HOLIDAY)
CIRCUS
CIRCUS
Andy Hart - Open to Close (House) DJ: Andy Hart + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,600/1D • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
OCTAVE Tone Float 4 (Techno) DJS: Aoki Takamasa, Yama, Kazuma,
Unagi + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • WHERE: Kyoto • facebook.com/octavekyoto
28 (FRI) & 29 (SAT) & 30 (SUN)
MINOH KYOGAKU NO MORI CAMP SITE
MINOH KYOGAKU NO MORI CAMP SITE
Stefan Goldmann (Techno)
Iglooghost Japan Tour with Pasocom Music Club in Osaka (Electro)
Tomoaki Tamura & Takecha “Kansai EP” Release Tour in Osaka (House)
28 (FRI) & 29 (SAT) & 30 (SUN)
7 (SUN/BEFORE HOLIDAY)
PICCADILLY
22 (SAT)
ACTS: Tomoaki Tamura, Takecha + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,100/1D (ADV: ¥2,600/1D) • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka.com
October
Novel (Hip Hop) DJS: Staro, B=Ball, S.u, Maurice, Takumi + more • OPEN: 9pm • ADMISSION: Gentlemen ¥3,500/1D; Ladies ¥2,000/1D • WHERE: Umeda • TEL: 06-6809-5895 • clubpiccadilly. com
ACTS: Yukke, Daisuke Kondo, Kaito, G’n’B + more • OPEN: 10pm • ADMISSION: ¥2,500/1D • WHERE: Umeda • TEL: 06-6373-4919 • noon-cafe.com
What’s On Clubs & Nightlife
ACTS: Iglooghost, Pasocom Music Club + more • OPEN: 6pm–10pm • ADMISSION: TBA • WHERE: Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-6241-3822 • circus-osaka. com
12 (FRI)
TROOP CAFE Deep Sessions feat. Chez Damier (House) DJS: Chez Damier, Mitsuki, Masafumi Onishi + more • OPEN: 11pm • ADMISSION: ¥3,000/1D (Mail Reservation ¥2,000/1D; Under 23yrs ¥1,000/1D) • WHERE: Kobe • TEL: 078321-3130 • troopcafe.jp
27 (SAT)
NAMURA ZOSEN ATOCHI RTS.FM × Compromat Moscow Label Showcase (Techno) ACTS: TBA • OPEN: 3pm–10pm • ADMISSION: ¥5,000/1D (ADV: ¥4,000/1D) • WHERE: Kitakagaya • TEL: 06-47027085 • namura.cc
Just because summer is officially over doesn’t mean you can’t have fun in the sun. With seven stages featuring all genres of dance music, a hot spring foot bath, outdoor theater, and more, the Minpaq festival has something for everyone. Each stage will feature different styles of music, so whether you love hip-hop, techno, dubstep, or trance, there will always be something to keep you dancing. Look out also for a haunted house, kids’ dance stages, and a workshop area where you can learn to make masks. It is free for children under 16 and people over 60, so bring the whole family! The price is only ¥3,000 for foreigners whether you decide to go for one day or stay for all three. The organizers have already listed 100 artists who are performing on their website and promise to announce a hundred more when they release the timetable. Please contact the official website for info about camping and shower facilities. This is the perfect way to send off summer. Minpaq Fes 2018 (Techno/Psychedelic/Bass/ Dub/Reggae/Rave) • ACTS: Baku, Altz, Fullmoon Mondo, Doppelgenger, Jaxx Da Fishworks, Theus, Ka4u, Savage States, Shaka-ichi, Questa + more • OPEN: 4pm • ADMISSION: ¥6,000 (FOREIGNERS: ¥3,000; Under 16yrs & Over 60YRS: Free), ¥300 shuttle bus available from Hankyu Minoh Station • WHERE: Minoh, North Osaka • 072-722-8110 • minpaq.com
Minpaq Fes 2018 (Techno/ Psychedelic/Bass) ACTS: Baku, Altz, Fullmoon Mondo, Doppelgenger, Ka4u, Saki, Hmen, Dejirumasara, E.s.s. Band + more • OPEN: 4pm • ADMISSION: ¥6,000 for 3 days (Foreigners ¥3,000; Under 16yrs free) • ¥300 Shuttle Bus Available from Hankyu Minoh Station • WHERE: Minoh, North Osaka • 072-722-8110 • minpaq.com
DOPPELGENGER
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
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Food & Drink
Rogin’s Tavern OSAKA A whiskey and bourbon bar with a devoted connoisseur, set over three floors just a short train ride outside of Osaka. Hundreds of bottles of whiskey, new and old, line giant oldfashioned wooden shelves that stretch the length of the bar. Owner Seiichiro Tatsumi has personally scoured the shelves and back rooms of liquor shops from Kentucky to New York to source a collection of vintage bottles of whiskey and bourbon unrivalled in Japan. Treat yourself to a dram of something special and relax to the soothing sounds of jazz in this one-ofa-kind bar. BARS
Moriguchi City, Honmachi 1-2-15 • TEL: 06-6997-3200
Osaka SHINSAIBASHI SNOW LION The dazzling array of golden Buddha statues, Buddhist thangka paintings and other Tibetan ornaments and artworks that pack this unique restaurant makes it feel like you’re eating in a fine art gallery. ETHNIC
Shinmachi 1-14-2 2F. Tel. 06-6585-9592.
COCOWELL CAFE JAPANESE Healthy, coconut-laced lunch plates and desserts are the focus of this all-day dining eco-friendly cafe in Horie. Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-13-21 • TEL: 06-65315572
BASE ISLAND KITCHEN This tiny counter-only restaurant serves up an eclectic mix of delicious tapas ranging from vegetarian and vegan dishes to Jamaican Jerk Chicken! Open until 5pm daily. ETHNIC
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-16-27
TABIJI KITCHEN Choose your dish by its country of origin, in this comfortable restaurant that serves up everything from Vietnamese pho to English Shepherd’s Pie, depending on the day of the week. ETHNIC
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-14-20 • TEL: 06-65678403
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CRAFT BURGER Run by a friendly Aussie expat and his wife, Craft Burger offers a delicious selection of burgers of which the patties, buns, and all their sauces are handmade with the freshest ingredients. AMERICAN
Nishi-ku Kitahorie 1-6 • TEL: 06-6556-6682
BISTRO NEW ORLEANS Authentic New Orleansstyle restaurant, serving up Creole and Cajun dishes from its cosy Shinsaibashi location. AMERICAN
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-15-10 • TEL: 06-65437071
SAUCE BOSS
4-11-24 Minamisenba Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6282-4567
CAFE ABSINTHE Stylish Mediterranean restaurant and bar serving craft cocktails, and excellent food, including hummus, falafel and babaganoush. ETHNIC
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 1-2-27 • TEL: 06-65346635
CRITTERS BURGER Seriously good burgers and a great selection of toppings at this chilled out store in Amemura. Buns are freshly baked by their sister shop Westwood Bakers. AMERICAN
AMERICAN
Nishishinsaibashi, 1-10-35 • TEL: 06-49639840
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie, 1-5-13 • TEL: 06-71717938
Vegetarian/vegan restaurant serving creative meat-free dishes - so flavorsome you could swear you were eating meat sometimes!
Serving up mouthwatering chicken wings in a huge variety of flavors, with craft beer and original fresh fruit cocktails to wash them down.
BISTRO D’ANJOU Osaka’s oldest bistro, Anjou has been serving classic brasserie food to a loyal following for 40 years. FRENCH
B1F, 2-6-18, Shinsaibashi • TEL: 06-62116085
AN NGON An Ngon certainly lives up to its name, meaning “it’s delicious” in Vietnamese. The cozy restaurant is adorned with traditional masks and other Vietnamese decorations and boasts an extensive menu. ETHNIC
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
PAPRIKA SHOKUDO JAPANESE
Shinmachi 1-9-9, Nishi-ku • TEL: 06-65999788
EL PANCHO Serving up authentic Mexican fare since 1978, El Pancho offers great value combo plates and a happy hour that runs from 11:30am–5pm daily! MEXICAN
Shinsaibashi Tower Bldg. 8F • TEL: 066241-0588
ALI’S KITCHEN Halal-certified Pakistani and Arabic cuisine, with over ETHNIC
200 menu items, including their popular goat brain masala and signature biryani dishes. B1 1-10-12 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4708-5745
FYLGDU MÉR OSAKA This uber-stylish eatery gets its name from the Icelandic for “follow me”. Follow your taste buds here and enjoy beautifully arranged mediterranean and middle eastern dishes, and cold pressed juices. ETHNIC
1-13-17 Shinmachi Nishi-ku • Tel. 064394-8715
NASCONDINO Simple yet authentic northern Italian pasta dishes served at this unpretentious eatery in Kita-horie. Voted the best Italian Restaurant in Kansai by our readers in 2017. ITALIAN
Nishi-ku, Kitahorie 3-6 • TEL: 06-6534-3722
CHAI CHAI Fantastically spicy authentic Indian curries, served with basmati rice and vegetable side dishes, at this slightly off-the-beaten-path curry shop in Kitahorie. ETHNIC
Nishi-ku Kitahorie 3-2-12 • TEL: 06-65321103
SATURDAYS NYC Laid-back, spacious cafe cum boutique with a large island counter to recharge both your laptop and your senses. CAFES AND TEAROOMS
Food & Drink
See Kansaifinder.com for more 4-13-22 Minamisenba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-4963-3711
TAVOLA 36 Occupying the 36th floor of the Swissôtel in Namba, this upscale restaurant serves an excellent buffet lunch and offers some fantastic views over the city day or night. ITALIAN
5-1-60 Namba, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-66465125
MURPHY’S IRISH PUB Japan’s oldest Irish bar and proud to provide the cheapest full pint in Osaka, Guinness and Kilkenny direct from Ireland, and a comprehensive selection of whiskeys and spirits. BARS
Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-Suji 1-5-2 2F • TEL: 06-6245-3757
THE BLARNEY STONE
COOLABAH
Irish pub in the heart of Shinsaibashi with live bands, great food and international staff. Happy Hour until 8pm.
An Australian/New Zealand themed sports bar/cafe with five screens and a full food menu including its authentic homemade meat pies.
BARS
Higashi-Shinsaibashi 2-5-27 Koda Bldg. B1F • TEL: 06-6468-2220
HANA SAKE BAR BARS With friendly Englishspeaking staff on hand to guide you, try a range of local sake and other Japanese spirits at this casual bar in the heart of Shinsaibashi. 1-8-4, Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo-ku
SUSHI KAIBA Marrying a modern Japanese interior with authentic nigiri-zushi, Kaiba sets the standard for casual sushi dining. Choose from set courses or a la carte. JAPANESE
Kitahorie 1-15-22 • TEL: 06-6532-2918
SPORTS BARS
Chuo-ku Nishishinsaibashi 2-16-13 Hosen Bldg. 1F • TEL: 06-6213-5153
THE SUITE WINE AND COCKTAILS Modeled after a 1920s New York hotel suite, this place is as suave as it gets and the perfect spot for some postdinner cocktails. Featuring live entertainment every weekend on its chandelier-lit stage area.
With its ultra-fresh sashimi served in bamboo boats with daikon radish and shiso leaves, Gyosho Taka-Aki is a haven for seafood lovers in the center of Kobe. There’s an upstairs and a downstairs and on the way in, there are tanks and boxes brimming with the fruits of the ocean—succulent tuna, creamy sea urchin, and chewy abalone—straight from Kobe’s central fish market. It is also a spot where you can try finely-sliced fugu (pufferfish). One of four restaurants in the Taka-Aki family, this flagship branch also boasts a well-stocked bar. 4-5-3 Kanocho, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 050-5869-0268
TENNOJI COCOMOMO&CO.
ZERRO
Abeno-ku, Matsuzakicho 3-6-2 • TEL: 06-6624-8323
BARS Popular Shinsaibashi bar with live DJs every weekend and no cover charge. Great food, cocktails and international beers from 500 yen.
ETHNIC
LEZZET CRAFTBEER & FOOD EXPERIENCE CRAFT BEER BARS A craft beer bar with a great tap selection and extensive food menu, including weekly specials and full-plate pasta dinners. No smoking. Abeno-ku, Matsuzaki-cho 2-3-21 • TEL: 06-7850-1412
BEER BELLY
KOBE
2 Chome-1-16 Kitahama, Chuo Ward • TEL: 06-6125-5740
Chuo Ward, Nishishinsaibashi, 2-18-18 • TEL: 06-6282-7742
UMEDA
SEAFOOD
CAFES AND TEAROOMS Great coffee and relaxing decor at this wonderful riverside location in Kitahama, overlooking the Central Public Hall.
Wholesome fusion cuisine in Tennoji serving up Mediterranean, Asian and British favorites and tempting cakes and desserts. Great for vegetarians, vegans and families.
Chuo-ku, Shinsaibashi-suji 2-3-2 • TEL: 06-6211-0439
Gyosho Taka-Aki
BROOKLYN ROASTING COMPANY (KITAHAMA)
CRAFT BEER BARS Osaka’s local award-winning brewery, Minoh Beer, runs a brewpub in Higobashi. Serving seasonal brews as well as its regular lineup on tap, including its award winning stout and decent bar food. Nishi-ku, Tosabori 1-1-30 • TEL: 06-64410717
PIERRE The InterContinental Osaka’s 21st floor Michelinstarred restaurant features a seasonal fine dining menu in sophisticated surroundings. FRENCH
3-60 Ofuka-cho, Kita-ku • TEL: 06-63745700
OUTBACK STEAKHOUSE Australian-themed steakhouse chain, serving up juicy steaks, ribs, and seafood. AMERICAN
Kita-ku, Dojima 1-6-20 • TEL: 06-6457-7121
HARDROCK CAFE International chain offering authentic American favorites – including its famous burgers and smokehouse sandwiches – and live music on the weekends. AMERICAN
TIN’S HALL A perennial favorite for many expats, serving good bar food and drinks. Look out for happy hour from 6–9pm where a beer and generously sized burger combo is just 1,000yen. Free live music on Saturday nights. BARS
Tennoji Ward, Minamikawahoricho, 10−3 • TEL: 06-6773-5955
DARUMA No frills, kushikatsu (deep-fried battered meat and vegetables on sticks) dining in front of Tsutenkaku Tower. Remember the golden rule when reaching for the sauce – no double dipping! JAPANESE
Osaka, Naniw-ku, Ebisucho-higashi 2-3-9 • TEL: 06-6645-7056
ZUBORAYA One of Shinsekai’s iconic restaurants. Look for the giant blowfish lantern that seems to be floating in midair. Whatever form of blowfish you can imagine, Zuboraya has it at an affordable price. JAPANESE
Naniwa-Ku, Ebisu-Higashi 2-5-5 • TEL: 06-6633-5529
3-6-14 Minami-Hommachi, Chuo-ku • TEL: 06-6120-5711
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Food & Drink
See Kansaifinder.com for more
Nishitomiya Croquette Shop KYOTO At Nishitomiya, croquettes are made gourmet. These fried pockets of goodness can be served with a glass of red, Camembert cheese, thinly sliced salted ham, figs, and olives. Or a glass of white, smoked salmon and dill, dried fruit and walnut, basil, boiled pork and ginger. These imaginative creations are only a little more expensive than the trusty street-food croquettes, and you can enjoy them in a cozy bar; at wine barrels that double as tables or on stools at the counter. These special fusion croquettes are even available for takeout. EUROPEAN
Kyoto, Shimogyo Ward, Kawaramachi Matsubara Sagaru Uematsu-cho 735 • TEL: 075-202-9837
AOI NAPOLI IN THE PARK
UMENOHANA KARASUMA
Airy two-storey trattoria serving quality pizza and pasta, located in the recently renovated Tenshiba park area. Good choice for families with children.
Tofu in all its forms and variations, coupled with seasonal vegetables and presented in a stunning fine dining setting. English menu available.
5-55 Chausuyamacho, Tennoji-ku • TEL: 06-6773-2225
Nakagyo Ward, Karasuma-Rokkaku, West 18 Bldg. B1F • TEL: 075-254-0566
ITALIAN
Kyoto BEER KOMACHI
JAPANESE
KATSUKURA SANJO Grind your own sesame seeds at this stylish chain of tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurants. Great value set meals including all-you-can-eat rice, miso soup and shredded cabbage. The Sanjo branch is the original store. JAPANESE
Hyogo
PATISSERIE AKITO BAKERIES AND PATISSERIES
INDUSRAY Authentic southern-Indian home-cooked food, served from this small, cosy family-run restaurant in Motomachi. The lamb or chicken biryani comes highly recommended. ETHNIC
Chuo-ku, Motomachi-dori 3-11-10 • TEL: 078-332-1660
3-17-6 Motomachi-dori • TEL: 078-332-3620
TRITON CAFE
Bo Tambourine makes great American classics. The vintage décor oozes an Americana vibe and staples like bacon cheeseburgers, chili cheese dogs, pulled pork sandwiches, and fried okra are served to match.
16, Ishibashicho, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075212-3581
Popular, stylish open-plan cafe on Kitano-zaka, serving up food all day, including bistro-style lunch plates and homemade desserts.
444 Hachikencho, Higashiyama Ward • TEL: 075-746-6152
KUSHIKURA
1-23-16 Nakayamatedori, Chuo-ku • TEL: 078-251-1886
KYOTO BEER LAB CRAFT BEER BARS A cosy brewpub run by Kyoto’s own ChaBeer Brewing Company, offering some rather unusual beers, including its American Hopped Green Tea Pale Ale, infused with green tea grown in nearby Wazuka-cho. Shimogyo-ku Juzenjicho, 3 201 • TEL: 075-352-6666
MILTON’S KYOTO BARS Cosy hole-in-the-wall 8-seater bar run by Englishspeaking local artist, Milton. A huge choice of liquors to choose from, including a good range of rums and whiskies. Non smoking.
JAPANESE Charcoal grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables dishes served in a beautiful 100-year-old traditional kyo-machiya house.
CAFES & TEAROOMS
THE ROCK JAPAN
584 Hiiragi-cho Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075213-2211
SPORTS BARS Australian sports bar and grill, offering up popular Aussie favorites including kangaroo burgers and steak and Guinness pies.
KIYAMACHI SAKURAGAWA
2F, 3-5-6 Kanou-cho, Chuo-ku, Kobe • TEL: 078-393-2111
JAPANESE Japanese fine dining, kaiseki style. Sit at the cypress wood counter and watch as the chef prepares a meal of exquisite dishes focused on the freshest seasonal ingredients. Reservations required. Nijokudaru-Kamikorikicho-491, Kiyamachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku • TEL: 075255-4477
BO TAMBOURINE AMERICAN
A small izakayastyle dining bar with seven taps of Japanese craft beer and a good sake menu to boot. Serves excellent food. CRAFT BEER BARS
Delectable pastries and desserts are on offer in this petite Motomachi patisserie where treats are usually served to go, but can be enjoyed in-house in a small seating area. In addition to their cakes, Patisserie Akito is also well known for its extensive selection of jams.
PIZZERIA AZZURRI Delicious authentic Napoli-style pizzas and antipasto, served from a small location near Kitano. One of the most popular pizzerias in Kobe, so be sure to make a reservation, or arrive early. ITALIAN
3-3-7 Kitanagasadori, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-332-2778
YIS TACOS YIS is one of the newer wave of Mexican restaurants to open in Kansai that appeals to a younger audience and has a more American vibe, with its clean concrete walls and selfserve drink cooler. MEXICAN
HAPPY Coco, Kitanaga Kyotsu 3−2−19, Chuo Ward, Kobe • TEL: 078-335-6637
Chuo Ward, Yamamotodori, 3-7-3 • TEL: 078-241-6036
Nakagyo Ward, Yamazakicho 246 2F
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Maps & Info
Welcome To Kansai Getting Around
Taxis
The Kansai area covers the prefectures of Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Wakayama, Nara, Mie, and Shiga. There is so much to explore, so you’ll need to prioritize your time wisely. Its main travel hubs are Osaka, Kyoto, and Kobe, all of which are well connected by high-speed rail networks, including the shinkansen (bullet train). On regular trains, you can travel between Osaka and Kyoto in about 45 mins, and between Kobe and Osaka in about 30 mins. If you are here on holiday, pick up a convenient travel pass, such as the Kansai Thu Pass (surutto.com) or Kansai One Pass (kansaionepass.com), to avoid having to negotiate the ticket machines. Use a website such as HyperDia (hyperdia.com) to check train times and platforms from your smartphone.
Fares start from ¥500. The drivers wearing white gloves and official hats tend to be the most courteous, but don’t expect English to be widely understood. Have your destination name and address on hand in Japanese.
Trains and Subways There is an excellent rail network connecting all corners of Kansai. As well as JR (Japan Rail), there are numerous private railway companies servicing the area, including Keihan (Osaka/ Kyoto), Hankyu (Osaka/Kyoto), Nankai (Osaka, Wakayama, Koya), Hanshin (Osaka/Kobe), and Kintetsu (Osaka/Nara/Mie/ Nagoya). Each line operates several types of train. For the fastest trains, look for the Limited Express service trains. Be aware that Local trains stop at every station on the line, so only take them if no other type of train stops at your station. Subways operate in Osaka, Kobe, and Kyoto and are an extremely efficient way to get around the cities. Tip: Pick up a Railway Network map from a major station or Tourist Information Center.
Airport Transfers To/from downtown Osaka, the most convenient option is the Nankai Rapi:t Express service (KIX <> Namba 42mins) or a Limousine Bus. To/from Kyoto, take the JR Airport Express HARUKA service (75 mins).
ATMs and Credit Cards If you’re using Visa, you will be able to withdraw cash at most bank or convenience-store ATMs. If you’re using Mastercard, your best bet for withdrawing money is at 7-Eleven ATMs. Most other ATMs in Kansai do not accept Mastercard. It is not common to make in-store payments using credit or visa-debit cards in Japan, even for expensive purchases. Many shops and restaurants do not offer this service, so be sure to carry plenty of cash with you.
Wi-Fi Getting connected in Kansai can be tricky. Renting a smartphone or SIM card at the airport is the safest option, to connect to the internet over a 3G or 4G network. In Osaka, you can access the Osaka Free Wi-Fi service at train and subway stations, stores and facilities throughout the prefecture.
Accidents and Emergencies Ambulance/Fire service: Tel. 119 Police: Tel. 110
Buses For out-of-the-way locations, or in certain cities such as Kyoto, you may need to take a bus. A travel pass usually includes travel on municipal bus services.
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Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
GET KANSAI SCENE
KYOTO
Kansai Scene is available from the following major outlets in the Kansai region:
Hotels and Guesthouses
OSAKA
Hotels and Guesthouses Hyatt Regency, Nikko Hotel, St. Regis, Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, Ritz Carlton, Hilton Osaka, Fraser Residence Nankai Osaka, InterContinental Hotel Osaka Tourist Information Centers Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Osaka), Hankyu Tourist Center Umeda, Osaka Visitors Information Center (JR Namba), Kansai Tourist Information Center (KIX), Kansai Tourist Information Center (Shinsaibashi), Nankai Information Center (Namba) Shops Kinokuniya Bookstore Umeda, Kinokuniya Honmachi, Tower Records Umeda, Junkudo Namba, Hard Rock Cafe
Royal Hotel, Royal Park Hotel The Kyoto, Kyoto Nikko Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kyoto Tourist Information Center, Kansai Tourist Information Center Kyoto, Kyoto International Community House Shops Junkudo Kyoto, Maruzen & Junkudo Kyoto Main Store, GEAR KOBE
Hotels and Guesthouses Kobe Bay Sheraton, Kobe Portopia Hotel Tourist Information Centers Kobe International Community Center, Hyogo International Plaza Shops Junkudo Nishinomiya, Junkudo Sannomiya, Kinokuniya Kobe
Maps & Info
See Kansaifinder.com for more
Post Office
Umeda Sky Building
Shangrila
Club Azul
Hub
Hankyu Tourist Center
Yodobashi Camera
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Club Noon Noon+Cafe
Hankyu Umeda Sta.
New Hankyu Osaka Hotel
Grand Front Osaka / Knowledge Capital
German Consulate 35F
Westin Hotel
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Cine Libre Umeda
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Osaka Loop Line Kitano Hosp.
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Ogimachi Park
Osaka YWCA
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Craft Beer Base
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Hotel Monterey Osaka
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Dojima Hotel
Dojima River Forum
St a. a m hi os
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Nakanosh
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Bank of Japan
City Hall
Museum of Oriental Ceramics Osaka City N aniw Public Hall aba shi GARB Weeks
Tosabori River
Mitsui Garden Hotel APA Hotel
Osaka
Science Museum
Beer Belly
Rihga Nakanoshima Inn
Mitsui Sumitomo Bank
3
Library
Brooklyn Roasting Company Kitahama
Osaka International Convention Center (Grand Cube Osaka) Sumitomo Hosp.
Daiwa Roynet Hotel Kitahama
Midosuji
Craft Beer Base Garden
TAKAMURA Wine & Coffee Roasters
Yotsubashisuji
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APA Villa Hotel
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Daiichi Group
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OSTEC Exibition Hall
Kitamido Utsubo Tennis Center
APA Hotel
Honmachi Dori
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Hanshin Expressway B
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Soai High School Starbucks
Honmachi
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Chuo Odori Honmachi
The St. Regis, Osaka
Hooters Osaka
Hard Rock Cafe Osaka Chuo Line
C
Starbucks
Sakaisujihommachi D
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shi
B Namba Shrine
MoeJoe
SHINMACHI
Maharaja Minami
Hearton Hotel
Anngon 1
Life
Big Beans Supermarket Hearton Mizuho Hotel Via Inn Bank Hotel Nishiohashi
bi-grace nail Osaka Convention & Tourism Bureau
Saturdays NYC
Nagahori dori
suji
Orange Street (shopping
Big Step Triangle Chaolua
Tezukayama street) Gallery 2F
Westwood Bakers
Hotel Lions Rock The Suite
Yotsubashi line
MINAMIHORIE
Horie Park
Joule Dormy Inn Sun Hall Balabushka Ghost 4F Ultralounge Mustang Moonshine Slices Moon Tower
Ohno Memorial Hospital
Coolabah
Dotonbori Rive
L&L ROR Comedy
r Music Bar S.O.R.a
3
. a Sta
JR N
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Junkudo
Osaka Shochikuza
MOTOMACHI
Zerro
Pure Osaka
Vista Grande Kaneyoshi Osaka ibis Styles Ryokan Osaka
Don Quijote
Hozenji Temple Osaka Floral Inn
NAMBA
Pub Bar 30 2F Naniwa Sports Center
Jack & Queen
National Bunraku Theater Nipponbashi sta.
BIC Camera Toho Cinemas Namba annex
MUJI/LOFT Tower Takashimaya Records Absinthe Dept. Store Solaar Swissôtel Maruzen Nankai Osaka
Naniwa Ward Office
3
Sunroute DOTONBORIHotel Osaka Namba
Kokopelli
Visitors Information Center
Naniwa Post Office
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
Dormy Inn
Fujiya Hotel
SOEMON-CHO Burlesque B1
B1
Shimanouchi Library
Cinquecento
Vanity
Nankai Namba Station
Namba Oriental Hotel
Misono Building
Namba Plaza Hotel
Singh’s Kitchen Jazz Bar B-Roxy
APA Hotel
NIPPONBASHI
4
Kuromon Market
Sofmap
McDonalds Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium
B
Bar Jaai
Sennichimae line
Fraser Residence
NAMBA -NAKA
2 Minami Police Station
HIGASHI- soma SHINSAIBASHI
Toho Cinemas Namba
Hotel Ichiei
5
50
Comfort Hotel The Blarney Stone B1F Suomachi-dori (Europe street) JANUS
Namba Hips
Little Long Beach
Naniwa Park
A
3F GS Travel
2F Murphy’s
Namba
Casa Lapichu
INARI
Ark Hotel
Kinryu Ramen
Namba Sta.
Hotel Monterey Grasmere Osaka
AEON MaxValu
SHINSAIBASHI
Mexico New Japan Spa Plaza ALZAR Rooftop Bar OO
ba
4
Cross Hotel
Don Quijote
Nam
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2F Daimaru Dept. South
Kansai Tourist Information Center
Dotonbori Hotel
Namba Hatch
Tominaga Hospital
APA Hotel
Nagahoribashi
Daimaru Dept.
Apple Store
Triangle Park
Yamaya
GAP
5F Boy FootRock &BEERS
Daimaru Dept. North
Silver Ball Planet Cinem @rt
Nest Hotel
Nagahori Tsurumi-Ryokuchi line
Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)
Craft Base Burger
1
Hearton Hotel
Tokyu Hands
El Pancho Uniqlo 8F
Midosuji line
TABIJI Kitchen
Critters Burger Via Inn
Nikko Hotel EXODUS Osaka Hana Banco Hostel OPA Cafe Hotel Vano Mystays Absinthe Circus
Saboten
Granknot Coffee
2
Nishitetsu Inn
i Sauce Boss
Yotsubash
El Zocalo
Bistro New Orleans Covent Garden
Ali’s Kitchen
Toyoko Inn
KITAHORIE
MINAMI-SEMBA Arthur Murray
Louis Vuitton
Shinsaibashi
D
Sakaisuji line
Daiwa Roynet Hotel
C
K2 record Namba PARKS NAMBA PARKS CINEMA
Otaroad
Shinmachi Kita Park
Shinsaibashi-suji (shopping arcade)
A
Naniwa-
OSAKA Shinsaibashi
Maps & Info
5
Animate Nihonbashi Shop
Toys”R”Us Yamada Denki LABI1 Namba C
D
Maps & Info
See Kansaifinder.com for more
C
D Keihan Mall
Osaka Tenmangu
Line
Osaka Castle
The Lutheran Hotel Tanimachi 4-chome
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Tenmabashi
Hanshin Expressway
Subway Sakaisuji Line
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Izumi Hall
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KKR Hotel Osaka
Hanshin Expressway Higashi Osaka Route
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Sakaisuji Honmachi
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Hotel New Otani Osaka
Osaka-jo Hall
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Yamamoto Noh Theater
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Osaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry APA Hotel
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Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts
Osaka Tennoji Zoo
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Shitennoji
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Tanimachi Line
Shitennoji Honbo
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OSAKA Tennoji
A
C
to Kyoto Imperal Palace
Hostel Mundo Chiquito Nijo Castle
Clamp Coffee Sasara
1 Hotel Okura Kyoto City Hall
Hearton Hotel
Tozai Subway Line
Yoboji Temple
Kyotoshiyakusho-mae
Sanjo
Nakamura General Store Mikane-Jinja Shrine
Nijojo-Mae
The Museum of Kyoto
Round One
Honnoji Temple Marker
Kyoto BAL
Gion Shirakawa
Nyorinin Hozoji Temple
Kyoto Art Center
to Maruyama Park
Nishiki Market
2
Bukkoji Temple Hotel Nikko Princess Kyoto
oga
Amore Kiyamachi
Kam
Hanano Yu
Kotoku Park
hijo
Gion Corner
Kennin-ji Temple Hojo Yasui Konpiragu Shrine
Daisenji Higashiyama Ward Office
Yumeyakata Gojo Gojo
Tambaguchi
3
Kyoto Gojo Hotel Shuhokaku to Kiyomizu-dera
3
Seikoro
Ichihime-Jinja Shrine
Otani Hombyo Cemetary Sumiya Motenashi Museum Higashi Honganji Temple
Shichijo
Kyoto Aquarium Umekoji Park
Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto
Kyoto National Museum
Yodobashi Camera Kyoto Railway Museum
Toyokuni-Jinja Shrine
Shosei-en Garden
Nishi Honganji Temple
4
2
Shoenji Temple er
Mibudera Temple
Kyoto-Daijingu Shrine
Shijo
Mitsui Garden Hotel
Shin-Omiya
Yasaka Shrine
Gion-S
Kawaramachi
Karasuma
Riv
Omiya
wa
Village Kyoto
Higashiyama
Sanjokeihan
Loft
Rokkakudo Temple Shounji
Kyoto Prefectural Police Station
D
to Heian Shrine
The Ritz-Carlton
Kyoto International Manga Museum
Karasuma Oike
1
Nijo
Chisaku-in Temple
Sanjusangendo
Hyatt Regency Kyoto
Kyoto Tower APA Hotel Rhiga Royal Hotel
4 Kyoto Century Hotel
Bic Camera
Kyoto Station Hotel Granvia
Rokusonno-Jinja Shrine
Imakumano-Jinja Shrine
El Inn Kyoto
New Miyako Hotel
Hotel Keihan Kyoto Grande
k Tofu
uji
Aeon Mall
Toji Sakura Terrace
Kujo
Oji
KYOTO Central
Marutamachi
B
A
Jingu-Marutamachi
Maps & Info
5
Zuirinji Temple
5
Kyoto Terrsa
Tofukuji Temple
Kyoto Brewing Co. A
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Komyoin
D
Maps & Info
See Kansaifinder.com for more
Grand Prince Hotel Kyoto
Entsu-ji Temple Kamigamo Shrine
C
ICC Kyoto
L i ne
Ota Shrine
uma
Jinko-in Temple
Su bw ay Ka ras
og m Ka
r ve Ri Dori Street
Na
Shimogamo-Jinja
Daishougun Hachi Shrine Aisen-ji Temple
Kyoto Brighton Hotel
Kyoto Imperial Palace B
A
Hankyu Kyoto Line
Eggs ‘n Things
H&M
treet
Police Box Pontocho Park
Hotel Ponto
B
uto uL ine
Shinmonso
river kawa Shira Jam Hostel
Tatsumi Bridge
Gion Kaikan Kyoto Modern Art Museum
Shijo-dori
Kawaramachi
Marui Kyoto
Shoenji Temple
A
Sanjo
Pontocho Kaburenjo Theater Keihan Main Line
Tosa-Inari Shrine (Misaki-jinja)
McDonald’s Takashimaya Department Store Kyoto Daijingu Shrine
Daishogun Shrine
C
Minamiza Theater Hanamiko ji-dori
Junkudo
Shijo
Karasuma Hotel
VOU Art Gallery
Kyoto BAL
Owls Forest Ninja Kyoto Kyoto Kawaramachi OPA Zara
Higashiyama 1
Sanjo
Kitsune Kyoto UrBANGUILD
Gion-S hijo
Karasuma Oike
Tokyu Hands
Kyoto Muse
Ogawa Coffee
Nishiki-tenmangu Shrine Super Hotel
Nishiki Market
Daimaru Kyoto
Hozo Temple
Starbucks
HUB
Kamogawa Riv er
Sugi Drug Shinkyogoku
Kyoto City Tourism Association Visitor Information Hana Hotel
Qu'il Fait Bon
Kiyamachi-dori
Papa Jon's Cafe Rokkaku
McDonald’s
Karasuma
Royal Park Hotel
Sanjo-dori Movix Kyoto Loft Kyoto Game Panic Seiganji Temple
Inoda Coffee
Ippudo Nishikikouji
Kyoto High School
Yoboji Temple
Honnoji Temple
Cafe Kocsi
Kyonoyado Kaginei
Cocon Karasuma
D
Kyotoshiyakusho-mae
Kyoto Art Center
2
Anraku-ji, and Reikan-ji D
Hiragiya
The Museum of Kyoto
Kyoto Municipal Gender Equality Center Misayama Park
Koiyama
Hounen-in Temple
Tetsugaku-no-michi (Philosopher's Path)
C
Kyoto Hotel Okura
Smart Coffee
Rokkakudo Temple
Higashiyama Jisho-ji (Ginkaku-ji)
Yoshida-jinja Shrine
Comme des Garcons Tozai Line
Hotel Gimmond
Nakagyo Post Office
2
Yasaka Shrine
2
Kanji Museum
Hotel Sunline Gion Corner
D
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KYOTO Sanjo
Shimadai Gallery
Kyoto University of Art & Design
C
Hotel Sugicho
Hearton Hotel
Konpuku-ji Temple
Hyakumanben Chion-ji Temple
B
A
Hotel Monterey Kyoto
Imadegawa Dori Street
Higashi Oji Dori S
Stay SAKURA Kyoto Nishijin
Randen Railw ays Kitano Line
Guesthouse KirinYa Kamogawa River
Horikawa Dori Street
Demachiyanagi Sta. Imadegawa Sta.
Hachidai-Jinja Shrine
Shirakawa Dori Street
ori
et
Falafel Garden
Shokoku-ji Temple
Kitano Tenmangu
1
Mototanaka Sta.
Pontocho
ori Str eet
hi D Kawai-Jinja Shrine
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Chayama Sta.
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Nishi
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bon
Kurama-guchi Sta.
Enkou-ji Temple
Shisen-do Temple
an O
Hotel Avanshell Kyoto
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Hirano-Jinja Shrine
Kyoto International Manga Musuem
Ichijo-ji Sta.
Kita Oji Dori Street
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Kinkaku-ji
Manshu-in Monzeki Temple
Keih
Kitaouji Sta. Daitoku-ji
Koutou-in Temple
ark aP ath gaw iP mo rag Ka
Imamiya Dori Street
Saginomori Shrine
Kyoto Botanical Garden
ka
Imamiya Shrine
Kinugasa Joshu-ji Temple
Shugaku-in Sta.
Kyoto Concert Hall
1 Rinkyuji Temple
Kitayama Dori S tre et
Matsugasaki Sta.
Kitayama Sta.
Saginomori Imperial Villa
Myoen-ji
Ta ka no Ri ve r
Kitayama
Sekizanzen-in Temple
Yusen-ji
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1 Genko-an Temple
Kitano Hakubaicho Sta.
Takaragaike Sta.
Takaragaike Park
Josho-ji Temple
2
D Line entetsu Eizan D Miyake-Hachiman Sta.
Renge-ji Temple Kokusaikaikan Sta.
KYOTO North
B
A
B
A
C
D
Kitano Museum
Kobe YWCA
Kitanoseiryu Shrine
Hotel Piena Kobe
1
KITANO-CHO Kitanosaka Hosp.
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Shiei Yamate subway line
Suwayama Park
Kobe Grocers
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Cafe Fish!
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KOBE Sannomiya
Maps & Info
SHINKO-CHO
Hotel Okura Kobe
Hotel La Suite Kobe Harborland
Kobe Maritime Museum Jumbo Ferry Terminal
5
Meriken park
Arthur Murray CULMENI 3F
Kobe Harborland umie
OS Cinema Harborland
A
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5
Kobe Minato Onsen Ren
Kobe Cruise Luminous Kobe 2
umie MOSAIC
Kobe Meriken Park Oriental
B
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
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Maps & Info
See Kansaifinder.com for more
NARA Overview
Kizu River Yamada Sta. Ke i
Nishi-Kizu Sta.
YAGYU AREA
Kizu Sta.
YAGYU AREA
Jubei s cedar
na wa
Bus Stop
E
xp
re s
Takanohara Sta.
sw
ay
KYOTO
Ama-no-Ishitate Shrine
YAGYU-CHO The main house of Yagyu Houtoku-ji Temple
Ofuji s Well
Narayama Sta. Mausoleums Heijo Sta. Nara-Okuyama Driveway YamatoSaidaiji Sta.
Ima-gawa Stream
NARA
Masakizaka Kendo & Zen Dojyo
Ruin of Mausoleum Enjo-ji Temple
Heijō Palace remains
Yasaka Shrine
Yagyu Kaido Trail Mt. Yoshino
Nara Sta.
Ruin of The House of Yagyu
JR Nara Sta.
Iris garden
CENTRAL NARA
Touge Chaya Jigoku-dani Sekkutsu-butsu
Yuhi-kannon
Nakamura 6 Jizos Housou Jizo
Kubikiri Jizo Asahi-kannon
Kujo Sta.
B
C Chisoku-In
Tengaimon gate of Todaiji
ve
r
HIGASHI SASABOKO-CHO
Sa
ho
Ri
1
D
Shosoin Main Warehouse
West Treasures Warehouse
East Treasures Warehouse
Ryu-shou-In
Imperial Household Agency Shosoin Office
NISHI SASABOKO-CHO
1 Todaiji Nigatsudo
Ruin of Yakemon (Chumon) the gate of Todaiji Nara Women’s University
Todai-ji Karakuni Shrine (Tengu Shrine)
Hotel Tamar
Todaiji Hokkedo (Sangatsudo)
OSHIAGE-CHO YURUGI-CHO
SHUKUIN-CHO
Ruin of Saidaimon the gate of Todaiji
Guesthouse Nara Backpackers
NOBORIOJI-CHO
Nara Prefectural Museum
SUIMON-CHO
Mt. Wakakusa
Oak Hostel Nara Nara Prefectural Office
Nandaimon Gate of Todaiji
Himuro Shrine
Hall of Kofuku-ji “Chu-kon-do”
Hoku’endo
The Fifty-Two Steps
Tourist Info Center
(luggage storage & delivery service)
Sarusawa Pond
Yoshidaya
GANRININ-CHO
Nara Pickle Shop
2
Musashino
Nara Kasugano Int’l Forum Mizuya Shrine
Nara National Museum New Wings
Five Storied Pagoda
Nan’endo
Matsunoya
Kofuku-ji Main Hall
Kozen-in
(2F)
LAMP BAR
Mont-bell
Yume-Kaze Plaza Shops & Cafes
Nara National Museum
“Tou-kon-do” LBK Craft
Int’l Forum IRAKA Annex
Yoshiki-en
Kintetsu line Nara Sta.
Tourist Info Center
NARA PARK
Todaiji Museum
Isuien Neiraku Museum
NAKASUJI-CHO 2
Tamukeyama Hachimangu Kagami-Ike Pond
Kikusuiro
Shikitei Hotel Pagoda
Hitokotonushi Shrine Kasuga-taisha
Edosan Inn
Tsubomiwa Shrine
Aoba Chaya
Roku-en
Enso Bairin Tei
Wakamiya Shrine
IKENO-CHO
Ara Pond
Nara Hotel
Ukimido Pavilion Kinryu Shrine
3
3
Yuga Shrine
Kii Shrine
Meishou Kyu-Daijoin Teien Former Residnece of Naoya Shiga (novelist)
Gango-ji Gokuraku-bo
Hotel Wellness Asukaji Kuuki Cake Shop
Zutou Pyramid A
Jurin-in Temple
B
Yagyu Kaido Trail C
Kantoku Temple Fukuu-in D
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
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NARA Central
A
B
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C Ho kk aid o
KANSAI
Katsuyama Fukui
& TOKYO
Kyoto
1
FUKUI
Hyogo
Mie
Osaka
Gujo
Nara Wakayama
Tsuruga
Maizuru
Tottori Sand Dunes Tottori
Mikata-goko Five Lakes Cycling Course
Obama
Takahama
GIFU
Kinosaki Maibara
Gifu Hashima 2
2
Lake Biwa Hikone-jo Castle
KYOTO
Tamba
Oumihachiman
Enryaku-ji Temple
HYOGO
Sasayama
aid
Mt. Hiei
Kyoto
k To
Otsu
Himeji
Akoh
3
Nagoya
n Nagoya
SHIGA
Koga
Fushimi Inari Aioi
h oS
se
an
ink
Kyoto Kinkaku-ji
Uji Himeji-jo Castle Sa ny oS hin ka ns en
Suzuka Circuit
Arima Iga
Mt. Rokko
Shin Osaka
Shin Kobe
Shoudo Island
3
Toudai-ji Temple
Osaka
Akashi Ohashi
Nara
Sakai
Kansai International Airport
Awaji
Tsu
Osaka-jo Castle
Kobe Nishi Akashi
Toba Aquarium
OSAKA
Angel Road
KAGAWA
1
Shiga
Mt. Hyonosen
OTTORI
D
Dinosaur Museum
To Ni ga ta
KANSAI Overview
Maps & Info
Ise
MIE
Ise Grand Shrine
NARA
Awaji Island
Yoshino Naruto Ohashi
Sumoto
Wakayama
Shionoha Odaigahara
4
Naruto
Naruto Uzushio (whirlpools)
Mt. Koya
4 Mt. Shakagatake Mt. Obako
Tokushima
WAKAYAMA
TOKUSHIMA
Kumano
Hongu Tanabe
Kumanohongu Shrine Shingu
Mt. Nachi
Ferries Saba Kaido (Mackerel) Trail Kumano Kodo Trail
Shirahama 5
Bridges
Nachi Falls
Nachikatsuura
5
Ninja Village Hot Springs
Kushimoto
Ski Spots Beaches
A
56
B
Kansai Scene | AUTUMN 2018 | kansaiscene.com
C
D
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Japanese Family Dining All-you-can-eat premium shabu-shabu or sukiyaki courses Including more than 75 popular side dishes and desserts (sushi, yakitori, tempura etc.) Easy-to-order touch-screen menus in English, Chinese or Japanese. NO SMOKING
Osaka
Kyoto
Washoku SATO Kumata
Washoku SATO Kyoto Gojo
2-1-21, Imabayashi Higashi Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka 546-0001
596, Motoshiogamacho Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto 600-8119
06-6758-4903
075-342-0540
ď&#x20AC;&#x2014; 11:00-0:30
ď&#x20AC;&#x2014; 11:00-2:00
Washoku SATO is one of the largest chains of washoku family restaurants in Japan, serving up delicious traditional Japanese meals for over 50 years. Please feel free to visit us at one of our convenient locations in Osaka and Kyoto, or drop in at any of our other branches across Japan. See our website for further details.
sato-res.com/sato/en/
scrop-coffee-roasters.com
As seen on TV
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Top 6-7%
THOROUGH QUALITY CONTROL BY Q GRADERS The Q Grader is an internationally accredited Coffee Appraiser who is qualified to analyse and grade beans. It is the most recognised and coveted certification system in the trade with only about 0.016% of the world’s coffee practitioner population holding the accreditation (in Japan there are about 300 Q Graders).
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