Why You Should Choose Artificial Grass Over Real Grass

What are the problems with Real grass lawns?

Real grass might look great and smell great, but it comes with its baggage of issues. In this blog post we cover a variety of issues that are very common with real grass lawns.

Let's start with weeds in the grass. Weeds are divided into three categories: grassy weeds (such as crabgrass), sedge weeds (such as yellow nutsedge), and broadleaf weeds (e.g., dandelions). Some weeds are perennials, meaning they come back year after year, while others are only present for a short time (dying within 12 months). Some weeds are tolerable while others are not.

There's also thatch and brown spots that are a real problem with maintaining a nice real grass lawn.

Thatch is a dense covering of dead and decaying plants that indicates a pH imbalance. It is an undesirable build-up of organic materials that can form brown areas in a lawn. When walking across the lawn, you may notice a "spongy" sensation. Thatch is more abundant in lawns that are wellmaintained than in lawns that are neglected. Thatch is an issue in lawns that have been treated with pesticides and have lost the grass's natural ability to decompose. Wet thatch invites fungal illnesses, whereas dry thatch repels water.

If your lawn becomes brown in the early fall and your pet starts digging up your lawn, you may have white grubs, which are the immature stage of Japanese beetles and chafer beetles. Grubs cause lawns to become yellow and die, although they are very easy to eradicate using non-poisonous methods it is an unpleasant issue to deal with.

Lawns can be infected with a variety of illnesses. Rust is the most prevalent lawn disease, causing your grass to turn orange or rust colored. The remedy to rust and most diseases is to simply adjust the way you care for your lawn. If disease-resistant grass seeds are available, mow at the proper height, fertilize appropriately, aerate compacted soil, irrigate properly (don't overwater, water early in the day), and obtain disease-resistant grass seeds. Get a soil pH test every year to ensure you have the proper levels of phosphorus and potassium, as well as the other nutrients your grass requires.

We assume you've come to our page because you have a lawn problem and proper lawn care is the best way to avoid problems. Are you aware of the grass seed that has been placed in your yard? Are you mowing, watering, and fertilizing your grass correctly for your grass type? Here are some brief recommendations to help you avoid any problems: Keeping weed seeds out of your yard is a good idea. Weed-free mulch, compost, topsoil, and grass seed should all be purchased. After working in an area with a lot of weeds, clean your equipment.

Before you choose seeds or fertilizer, test your soil: The ideal pH level for your soil is between 6.2 and 6.7; anything less than that puts your grass at risk of fungal infections. Lime the soil if the pH is too low; this is best done in the fall. Fertilize according to the grass's nitrogen (N) requirements.

Choose the proper grass for your location and plant it with high-quality seed. You get what you pay for when it comes to grass seed. Late summer too early fall is the best time to plant.

Make a good seed bed first. If the region is infested with perennial weeds, herbicide may be required to clear the field and break up the tubers and rhizomes underground.

Mow high: Set your mower to 3 inches as a general guideline. This promotes the development of deep roots. Most people cut their lawns too short, reducing the grasses' ability to create food through photosynthesis and encouraging weed growth.

Mow frequently: By mowing on a regular basis, you can prevent weed seeds from maturing. However, never mow more than one-third of a grass leaf in a single pass (known as the "one-third" rule), as this will stunt root growth. You should mow your lawn before it reaches 4.5 inches high if your mower is set to 3 inches and you follow the one-third rule. During the growing season, this is usually done once a week.

Mow with a sharp blade. Sharpen 2 to 3 times a year.

As a natural fertilizer, leave grass clippings on the lawn. (However, if clumps persist, break them up with a rake and a second mow.)

Fertilize in the early autumn at the very least. In September, apply 1 pound of real nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. You can fertilize in the late spring and summer if you have lawn irrigation and want healthy grass. Early spring fertilization encourages leaf growth at the expense of root growth.

Don't over-water your plants. Make the lawn seek out its own water supply, resulting in longer, more robust roots. Your lawn needs roughly 1 to 1.5 inches of water every week. Consider the possibility of rain. Short, frequent watering (sips) promotes a weak root system and should be avoided. Once a week, water thoroughly and deeply to promote the root system of the grass to go deeper, making the entire lawn more hardy and heat tolerant.

It is much easier to maintain an artificial grass lawn, call us today for a quote!