You Are Here - #3 - GLO HOTELS - Summer 2017

YOU ARE HERE SUMMER 2017

YOUR FREE COPY

BEACH LIFE IN THE CITY

EROTTAJA for up and coming shopping

THE HOTTEST CAFÉ IN TOWN

Hello World!

ARS 17 at Kiasma DESIGN

ARCHITECTURE

ART

SHOPPING

MUSIC

EVENTS

RESTAURANTS

DIRECTORY

Welcome to Helsinki! We’re glad you’re here. Our magazine will guide you to Helsinki, capital of the contemporary, hip and cool. The shops, restaurants, events, art shows and exhibitions. Everything that makes us love Helsinki and will make you fall in love with Helsinki.

You are here and we are here for you. Enjoy your stay!

COVER PHOTO © ANNA UDDENBERG: SAVAGE #6 (DIRTY RAVER), 2016, PHOTO: FNG / PIRJE MYKKÄNEN

For Urban Explorers GLO Hotel Kluuvi is an exclusive, modern lifestyle hotel in the heart of Helsinki. It is located near all the most important attractions. Surrounded by shops, cafés, restaurants and nightlife, this hotel is the place to stay at if you want to explore Helsinki and everything the city has to offer.

GLO Hotel Art is a charming lifestyle hotel built around a century-old Art Nouveau castle in the heart of Helsinki.

A prime location in the middle of the Design District, where an enchanting atmosphere, artistic decor and modern guest rooms welcome you. The modern part of the hotel houses 171 guest rooms designed to meet any traveller's needs.

GLO Hotel Sello is located in Leppävaara, Espoo, a 15

minute-train ride from the centre of Helsinki. The Helsinki Airport, the Helsinki Expo and Convention Centre and the Hartwall Arena are all within a short drive or train ride. Located right next to the hotel, the Sello Shopping Mall features more than 170 shops, as well as a cinema and a concert hall.

The cosy GLO Hotel Sello is a great choice, whether you are a business traveller or seeking to spend quality time with your family.

GLO Hotel Airport is the only hotel at the Helsinki-Vantaa Airport terminal building, only a few steps from the gates and thus a perfect choice for accommodation before, after, or in-between your flights. The hotel features 76 soundproof rooms, a bar, gym and a meeting room.

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Get Punched Out! Drinking punch was at its most popular in London’s several punch houses during the mid-18th century. It was the first globally popular mixed drink powered by spirits and may be considered as the foundation for mixology and a forefather of modern cocktails.

Inspired by this tasty drink, we went to work and created The Punch House – a unique and exciting new concept in Helsinki’s cocktail scene! Brought to you by GLO Bar and Son of a Punch creative bartending agency, our punches are colorful, tasty and uniquely presented.

GLO Bar. Mon–Tue 12–24, Wed–Thu 12–01, Fri–Sat 12–02.

GLO Hotel Kluuvi, Kluuvikatu 4.

TRAVEL AROUND THE WORLD GLO Hotel Kluuvi’s restaurant GLOBE takes you on an exciting adventure to kitchens around the world: Asia, Pacific and Scandinavia.

Restaurant GLOBE. Mon– Fri 11:00–14 & 17–23, Sat 17–23 (kitchen until 22).

GLO Hotel Kluuvi, Kluuvikatu 4. ravintolaglobe.fi

MEET GLO MEETS, THE FUTURE OF MEETINGS TODAY Discover a new way to organize meetings in Helsinki.

Located on the second floor of GLO Hotel Kluuvi, GLO Meets represents a new way of thinking and doing things: ultramodern technology,

video walls and collaborative spaces are designed for highly effective meetings and successful events of up to 200 participants.

MAKE YOUR TRIP AND STAY UNFORGETTABLE The eight million members of the GLO DISCOVERY programme receive recognition and rewards across 550 hotels, resorts, palaces and spas. Local Experiences, the innovative rewards of the DISCOVERY programme, are unique, authentic experiences.

You also get benefits such as complimentary Wi-Fi, room upgrades and enhanced personal recognition. For more information, visit discoveryloyalty.com

GLO Hotel Kluuvi Kluuvikatu 4

+358 10 3444 400 kluuvi@glohotels.fi

GLO Hotel Art Lönnrotinkatu 29

+358 10 3444 100 art@glohotels.fi

GLO Hotel Sello +358 10 3444 200 Leppävaarankatu 1, Espoo sello@glohotels.fi GLO Hotel Airport Helsinki–Vantaa Airp., T2

+358 10 3444 600 airport@glohotels.fi

glohotels.fi

BOOK A TABLE IN YOUR NEW FAVOURITE PLACE

Brasserie Kämp has served for more than 100 years with the same admiration towards quality service. Whether it’s breakfast, lunch, dinner, afternoon tea or brunch, Brasserie Kämp will welcome you to enjoy its prestigious and historic atmosphere.

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Pohjoisesplanadi 29, Helsinki Table bookings: tel. +358 9 5840 9530 brasserie@hotelkamp.com www.brasseriekamp.fi

MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN

BAR 10–01 10–01 10–02 10–02 10–02 11–02 11–0:30

RESTAURANT 11:30–23 11:30–23 11:30–23 11:30–23 11:30–24 12–24 12–23

ALVAR AALTO ART AND THE MODERN FORM • 11.5.–24.9.2017

CLASSIC WITH A TWIST

Global sponsor

ESKO MÄNNIKKÖ August 18 – September 10, 2017

Esko Männikkö, From the series UUPUU

TIMELESS CONTEMPORARY. EXCLUSIVE HAND-CRAFTED JEWELLERY IN THE VERY HEART OF HELSINKI. FINNISH DESIGN BY TINA TILLANDER. ATELIER TORBJÖRN TILLANDER, KLUUVIKATU 1, HELSINKI TILLANDER.COM

WELCOME TO HELSINKI BY ANNI SINNEMÄKI

“H

PHOTO © TIIU KAITALO

elsinki is home to me.

I was born and raised here. My whole history is here.

I remember streets, I remember metro stations as they used to be, I remember where new buildings have been raised, and where trams used to run, on streets that have tracks no more.

I have always loved places that have remained the same for years and years. The Fazer café on Kluuvikatu and Café Ekberg on Bulevardi make me realise that people have walked these streets long before me.

Yet, I have started to like change: a changing and growing city is much more interesting than a city that remains exactly the same.

Helsinki is a forward-looking city and full of hope. Young people filled with ideas and desire move here to build their lives. You can feel it in the city’s atmosphere.

The presence of the sea, bringing ruthless cold wind but also beauty, accentuates the city’s open personality.

More than anything, the sea has always borne a feeling that should I decide to leave I could go to the ends of the Earth. It brings about an acceptance, an awareness of the world being within my reach. That feeling of a possible adventure is, first and foremost, what the sea offers.

Welcome to Helsinki.”

Anni Sinnemäki is a deputy mayor of Helsinki and a poet. She was photographed at the City Hall.

9

Yrjönkatu 3 www.glivelab.fi

The Future of Live Music in Helsinki

You Are Here is the entertaining, intelligent and riveting lifestyle magazine of the Kämp Collection Hotels. The magazine gives you an insight to current events and interesting people and phenomena in Helsinki. You Are Here offers a comprehensive guide to restaurants, bars, art, design and shopping.

PHOTOS © TIIU KAITALO • RACHEL ROSSIN: ALEMBIC CACHE PASSES, 2015. PHOTO PETRI VIRTANEN. FNG • OLO

Publisher Kämp Collection Hotels Erottajankatu 4 C 00120 Helsinki, Finland Editor-in-Chief Mirkku Kullberg Editorial Office Saariaho Järvenpää You Are Here Merimiehenkatu 31 00150 Helsinki, Finland youarehere@saariahojarvenpaa.fi Managing Editor Jari Saariaho jari@saariahojarvenpaa.fi Editor Sirkku Saariaho sirkku@saariahojarvenpaa.fi Art Director Kalle Järvenpää kalle@saariahojarvenpaa.fi Graphic Designer Marjo Saarela Photographer Tiiu Kaitalo Translator Perttu Järvenpää Reprographer Antti Sepponen Other Contributors Ida Elfving Liisa Kuvaja Advertising Sales Satu-Johanna Oksanen tel +358 50 388 3548 satu.oksanen@ kampcollection.com Schedule ou Are Here is published bianY nually with the autumn issue on August 31st.

Colophon Papers Munken Polar 120 g/m² Galerie Art Gloss 200 g/m² Fonts Circular by Laurenz Brunner Lazurski by Vladimir Yefimov Odessa by Peter O’Donnel Printing Office K-Print, Estonia

YOU ARE HERE 2017 Summer

7 WELCOME TO HELSINKI

Anni Sinnemäki

10 THE SPIRIT OF HELSINKI

Samuli Valkama, Yarn and Cheese

12 PHENOMENON

Kuuma

14 PROTAGONIST PEKKA KUUSISTO

Fit as a Fiddle

20 DESIGN

Greatest Hits

Protagonist: V iolinist Pekka Kuusisto, page 14.

22 BATHING

Beach Life

26 ART FOCUS: ARS17 AT KIASMA

Hello World! Hello ARS17!

28 ART PICKS

Modern Life, Olafur Eliasson and Alvar Aalto

32 MIXOLOGY

It’s Cocktail o’Clock

Design: Ten pieces that made the Finnish modern, page 20.

36 RESTAURANTS

Let’s Do Lunch!

40 MUSIC FOCUS

A Nation Awakens

42 MUSIC

Meet All of Helsinki’s Tribes in One Go

44 EVENTS

Highlights of the White Nights

48 SUMMER ACTIVITIES

Cruise the Archipelago and More

EROTTAJA 50 STREETWISE: EROTTAJA

Up and Coming

52 DAYTRIP: FISKARS

How Green Is My Valley

Art: Rachel Rossin’s Alembic Cache Passes dispatches visitors to virtual reality . ARS17 at Kiasma, page 26.

Restaurants: From fine to fast, everything you need to know about lunch in Helsinki, page 36.

54 SOUVENIR: AIRAM THERMOS FLASK

Ever So Hot!

55 DIRECTORY MAP INSIDE BACK COVER

youareherehelsinki.com 11

THE SPIRIT Samuli ­Valkama’s ­latest film, ­Saattokeikka, had its premiere in ­early March.

Samuli Valkama is a ­Helsinki-based film director and scriptwriter who has also written several children’s books. These are his five ­places in Helsinki.

1

The Rikhardinkatu library. Mon–Thu 9–20, Fri 9–20, Sat 10–16, Sun 12–18.

Rikhardinkatu 3. helmet.fi

When in upper secondary school I used to frequent this charming place but due to my absent-mindedness when it came to returning the volumes, whilst the fines kept hiking up, I had to stop going there for years. I found the place again with my son and luckily the library has remained the same. A wonderful temple of old books that radiates tranquility. The per12

fect spot to calm down, ponder and have a sit-down.

2

The Yrjönkatu swimming hall.

See website for opening hours. ­Yrjönkatu 21b. hel.fi

The first and most beautiful swimming hall in Finland. A trip in time to the 1920s. I have a swim and a sauna there at least once a week. If you have extra time it’s worth going upstairs to enjoy the steam in the wood-burning sauna, take a rest in a private booth and order mead with gherkins.

3

Brooklyn Café. Mon–Fri 7:30–19, Sat 9–17:30, Sun 10:30–17:30. Fredrikin­ katu 19. brooklyncafeandbakery.com

I do a lot of my writing in cafés and Brooklyn Café in Viiskulma is one of my favourites. The American sisters, Sharron and Brenda Todd opened the place that has become an institution in just five years. Ba-

gels, cupcakes, and lately, they have added a carefully selected collection of books.

4

Children’s Town. Mon–Fri 11–19, Sat–Sun 11–17. Aleksanterinkatu 16. helsinginkaupunginmuseo.fi

In a corner of the Senate Square lies the oldest stone building in Helsinki, which houses a museum for children. My son loves the fact that you can touch all the objects on display. And adults get to see what life was like in Helsinki in the olden days.

5

Orion. See website for screenings.

Eerikinkatu 15. kavi.fi

The Finnish Film Archives operate in the old and beautiful Art Deco cinema, where you can watch films that are nowhere else to be seen: classics of the past and contemporary art house films. On top of that, you get to enjoy the flicks in the most comfortable seats in town.

PHOTO © TIIU KAITALO

HOME ADDRESS

OF HELSINKI MADE

IN

HELSINKI

YARN CANDY Every knitter knows the yarn shop syn- available at Snurre and so hard to find drome in a new town, and Snurre is a in one’s home town. After all, the balls proper sweetshop for the knitter. Anne take up so little space.

Lampinen sells only natural yarn, only the wonderful stuff. Lystig’s and LouSnurre. Mon–Fri 10–18, hettaren Luola’s hand-dyed yarns and Sat 10–15. Malminrinne 1 B. Tukku’s merino-like Finnsheep yarn are snurre.fi



MEN OF THE CLOTH

PHOTOS © SNURRE • HELSINGIN MEIJERILIIKE• FINLAYSON • BASBAS

When a very, very, very old company starts life anew, you simply need to keep an eye on them. The badly frayed textile company, established in 1820 by the Scot James Finlayson, was bought in 2014 by three men who understand the importance of both marketing and finance. A glorious ascent began: everyone in Finland seemed to be buying new textiles for the home. So fresh! Now Moomin and Tom of Finland products all fit under one Finlayson duvet cover.  Finlayson Flagship Store. Mon–Fri

10–18, Sat 10–16. Eteläesplanadi 14. finlayson.fi

LIL BRO RULEZ Amazing! What a great place! Why hasn’t there been a restaurant here before?

Oh, and the wines! What a feeling! The menu makes me drool, I need to eat my way through it, starting with the gnocchi.

Consider yourself warned, downstairs is restaurant BasBas’s little brother, BasBas & Staff, a wine bar in its own class.  BasBas & Staff Wine Bar. Wed–Thu

16–24, Fri 16–02, Sat 14–02.

Say Cheese

The most academic cheeses and yoghurts are made at the University of Helsinki’s dairy in Viikki, where the commercial dairy Helsingin Meijeri­ liike is based, right next to the research farm that provides fresh milk for the company.

The founder, cheesemaker, MS Antti Alavuotunki was a food scientist specialising in cheese ripening at University of Helsinki for a long time until he realised he wanted to put theory into practice.

In his own company he could combine traditional dairy knowledge with his researcher’s approach, Alavuotunki thought, and so, in 2013, decided to establish his own enterprise.

—My approach to cheese was purely theoretical. It wasn’t easy to start with but as a researcher I have problem-solving skills, Alavuotunki says.

The dairy makes yoghurts and mainly white and red mold cheeses, which are named after important places in Helsinki, such as Hakaniemi, Klippan, Linnunlaulu, Jätkäsaari and Ullanlinna.

Cheeses by Helsingin Meijeri­

liike are widely available in

food markets, market halls and supermarkets in Helsinki, e.g., Juustokauppa Tuula Paalanen in the Old Market Hall, Eteläranta.

Tehtaankatu 27–29. basbas.fi 13

PHENOMENON The sweetest siblings in Helsinki, Wia and Tara Nyman, run the town’s hottest café in Punavuori.

The café is on the corner of Albertinkatu and Pursimiehenkatu. Daylight floods in through the large windows and the place is brimming with customers. Wia and Tara swish through the clientele to bring you coffee, avocado sandwiches and all-day breakfasts. A fairly typical day in Kuuma (Hot in English).

It has been a long-time dream for the sisters to run a café together, and as soon as the perfect cornershop was on the

PHOTO © TIIU KAITALO

ON THE TURQUOISE FLOOR

14

KUUMA market, Wia and Tara leapt at the chance. “We wanted to open a café that would employ both of us, so we could do things together as it seems to work out so well. We didn’t think for long, although we were obviously nervous because the space is so big,” Tara says.

As family is nearest and dearest for Wia and Tara, everyone was invited to turn the ex-office into a café. Their dad, uncles, aunts and boyfriends joined up to paint and tile. Wia and Tara took care of the design.

“We share a similar taste with my sister. We flicked through magazines and Pinterest and here we are now,” says Tara.

The floor! The bright turquoise floor brings in light even through the polar night. Easily.

“We had a thought that wouldn’t it be great to have a proper crazy floor, didn’t we, Tara? Everything else was built around that.”

“And I wouldn’t run a café with anyone else than Tara,” continues Wia and gives the prettiest glance at her sister. Kuuma. Tue–Fri 8–17, Sat 10–16. Albertinkatu 6.

@kuumahelsinki

15

Boundaries in music are meant to be crossed when it comes to Pekka Kuusisto and no genre of music is alien to him, even if he is a violin virtuoso.

O

h, jeepers creepers, where’d ya get those peepers?

Two violinists, one slightly smaller than the other, play a boisterous piece with dignity. The smaller one with a stern look glances at his brother and starts a solo: these are the Kuusisto violinist brothers Pekka, 7, and Jaakko, 9, in the year 1983.

In 1995, some ten years later, Pekka Kuusisto walks onto the stage of Finlandia Hall during the Jean Sibelius Violin Competition with a Stradivarius in hand, lifts up his instrument and launches into Sibelius’ violin concerto.

Wild and beautiful. The conductor Hannu Koivula takes the music into the final triumphant ascent. The crowd goes wild, erupts in loud cheers and stomps their feet. They understand they have witnessed an extraordinary phenomenon: the 19-year-old Pekka Kuusisto is a star.

It was a winner’s performance. Most importantly, it launched Pekka Kuusisto into an international violinist career that has lasted for more than 20 years.

Kuusisto’s home and haven is in Pernaja, by the sea, an hour’s drive from the Helsinki-Vantaa airport. A vital measure of time for someone who is always on the move, at least six months a year.

—When I was in my twenties I couldn’t imagine where music would take me. I have been lucky, having right away signed to a great agent, Harrison Parrot, who has other Finns under his wings as well. Developing my career with him has been fun, clear and determined.

Exactly like everyone else, a violinist goes through development discussions. Where are you going, Pekka? Where do you see yourself in five years time? Does Sibelius still interest you? Which con-

16

Text Sirkku Saariaho Photos Katri Lehtola

PROFILE PEKKA KUUSISTO 1976 Born in Espoo 1979 Started at the East Helsinki Music Institute with violinist Geza Szilvay 1984 Began studies at the Junior Academy of Sibelius Academy 1992 Third prize in the Carl Nielsen Chamber Music competition in Denmark 1992–1997 studied with Miriam Fried and Paul Biss at the Indiana University School of Music 1993 Enrolled at the Sibelius Academy in Helsinki 1995 First place in the International Jean Sibelius Violin Competition 1995 First place in the Kuopio Violin Competition 1996 – now Artistic Director of Our Festival, first with his brother Jaakko, now on his own 2013 Nordic Council Music Prize 2016 Order of the Lion of Finland – Pro Finlandia Medal

→ Pekka Kuusisto in full swing in Jean Sibelius’ Ainola home.

PROTAGONIST: PEKKA KUUSISTO

FIT AS A FIDDLE

17

↑ Winning the Jean Sibelius ↰ “When I was in my temporary composer would you like to compose for Violin Competition launched twenties I couldn’t know you?

Pekka Kuusisto’s international where music would take —The last few years I have tried to find a less fragme”, Pekka Kuusisto says. career at the age of 19. His mentary form of life. Earlier I was every week in a differcareer has continued for over ent place playing with different people. It was fun but 20 years. wearing. A violinist must find the time to practise and uphold their skills, he says.

Today, Kuusisto has three regular commitments, the —I believe that at the moment people gravitate toAustralian Chamber Orchestra Collective, the Saint Paul Chamber Orchestra and the Deutsche Kammer- ward music that does not necessarily rip apart their philharmonie Bremen, whom he plays with several inner musical world. If there is a global move towards times a year. As the programmes are planned a couple traditionally-sounding music it definitely hasn’t slowed of years in advance, Kuusisto can also plan his life more down the popularity of Sibelius’ music.

Kuusisto wonders how the collective understanding easily.

—Still, this isn’t a tame game yet, although now I of acceptable music is changing, how a hundred years don’t have to do everything. I can always ask if some- ago Stravinsky was intolerable clang to the audiences, thing could be postponed to the following year, Kuusis- yet today he is part of the everyday repertoire of a symphony orchestra. to laughs.

—Therein lies a fuzzy natural law of clear harmonies.

Sibelius still interests him and is an important compos- And it doesn’t matter whether it’s invoked by a major triad er to Kuusisto, who plays his music a lot. Sibelius’ 150th by Arvo Pärt or a composition by Hildegard von Bingen.

Hildegard von Bingen was a mediaeval super-nun, anniversary was celebrated in 2015 and his music has been on the rise ever since. Kuusisto reckons that this philosopher, mystic, author and composer. Arvo Pärt is an Estonian contemporary composer. might be part of a bigger cycle or trend.

18

PHOTO © PETRI PUROMIES / LEHTIKUVA

Kuusisto is a known advocate of new music. Premieres are the elixir of life for musicians, it is better than anything else to play a new piece that feels like it is made for the musician or actually made for them.

—Premieres make life much more exciting. It pays to get together with organisations, festivals and orchestras who have interest, and economic possibilities, to hire young composers to write new music.

A person who performs a premiere often gets exclusive rights to a musical piece for a year or two, and is also included in the partiture.

Be careful what you wish for: Kuusisto has recently premiered Sebastian Fagerlund’s and Owen Pallett’s violin concertos, Anders Hildeborg’s partner piece to Johann Sebastian Bach’s Brandenburg Concerto No. 3, and a slew of smaller pieces. At the moment, Daniel Bjarnason, Sauli Zinovjev and Perttu Haapanen, among others, are composing for him.

Classical and contemporary music fare well in Finland. The Wunderkinder and enfant terribles, the boundary smashers of the 1980s, such as Esa-Pekka Salonen, Magnus Lindberg, Jouni Kaipainen, Kaija Saariaho and Juhani Nuorvala have grown up and found their place in the world.

Finnish music pedagogy combs out the talents from a population of 5.5 million already in primary school.

New talents arise; musicians and composers are discovered all the time. Kuusisto’s talent would not have gone unnoticed, even if he had been raised in a different family.

—Outi Tarkiainen is extremely interesting, she has her own voice. Once, we were composing songs for a collaborative project, and I realised her pieces were works with a capital W, pieces that made my own thoughts on composition seem modest.

Time of Music in Viitasaari, Musica Nova in Helsinki, Tampere Biennale and Avanti!’s Summer Sound. New Finnish and international music is continuously heard in Finland.

Contemporary music is divided into several schools.

The American school includes, among others, the media sexy Philip Glass, Terry Riley and Steve Reich.

—The currents in Finnish contemporary music have more in common with European 20th century musical innovations than with contemporary US music. For example, Paavo Heininen’s work, and its consistent development condenses the character of Finnish contemporary composition.

According to Kuusisto it is sometimes identifiable whether a piece has been made more by the brain, rather than by the ear, in the work of Finnish composers; in other words, whether the author has aimed at perfect form or at musicality that serves the performer and the performance.

The 19-year-old Kuusisto in the Sibelius competition at Finlandia Hall on 29th November 1995.

FOUR IMPORTANT MOMENTS IN MY CAREER (1) Winning the International Jean Sibelius Violin Competition in 1995 launched my international career.

(2) In 2011 I was on holiday for four months, which made it possible for my career to endure.

(3) This year I was invited to compose

music for the new international Moomin animation series together with Samuli Kosminen. It is the greatest commissioned composition in my career so far.

(4) The best is yet to come.

19

“It was clear at home that all types of music were listened to. My father has done everything possible with music”, Pekka Kuusisto tells.

music, compared to what people generally think.

Playing music is often fun and communal but there is a lot of work behind it, a violin virtuoso continually practises. Simple folk music encores are not enough, as Kuusisto says, even though it is a fun and great experience for the audience.

Exactly what happened to Kuusisto in London last When a musician tells an English newspaper that the autumn after his performance of Pyotr Tchaikovsky’s first record he bought was the Swedish Eurovision Song violin concerto at the BBC Proms was that he turned his Contest winner Herreys’ album Diggi-Loo Diggi-Ley, encore into stand up comedy. To start with he made a sings the Back Street Boys in karaoke, and the first song couple of current quips before promising to sing a Karehe remembers hearing is Rasputin by Boney M, there is lian folk song only if the crowd should join in: Yes, from little doubt that his upbringing with music was not very the audience at London’s Royal Albert Hall.

Kuusisto rolled up his sleeves and began to sing: strict.

—It was clear at home that all types of music were Minun kultani kaunis on, vaikk’ on kaitaluinen, minun listened to. My father has done everything possible with kultani kaunis on, Hei luulia illalla, vaikk’ on kaitaluinen. music for decades ever since he started working, and he [My darling is beautiful, even if she’s small-boned, my still keeps on composing. Every time someone asks me darling is beautiful, even if she’s small-boned, hey luulia why I make music in different genres, I answer that I feel in the evening, even if she’s small-boned.]

—You need to sing it now: Hei luulia illallla my work is nothing compared to my Dad’s.

—Louder! HEI LUULIA ILLALLA. In the real tempo!

Pekka’s dad, composer Ilkka Kuusisto, son of composer Taneli Kuusisto, never cared for musical genres. Very clear articulation, please!

—HEI LUULIA ILLALLA, the whole audience repeats.

Instead he kept alternating among the opera, teaching, Kuusisto brings the choir, the audience that is, into a artistic direction, and choir and light music. Like father like son. Kuusisto believes that the classical musicians diminuendo, as only a third generation choir leader can.

—Thank you. of his generation are much more open-minded towards —Music is written by the brain and for the brain in forms that aren’t necessarily yet identified as music. Today, possibly two composers understand it but in 50 years’ time it will open up and create something new or a form that no one knew could exist, Kuusisto exhilarates.

20

Our Festival audiences aboard churchboats in 2013.

OUR FESTIVAL

And Now for Something Completely Different

PHOTOS © MAARIT KYTÖHARJU

Pekka Kuusisto and Brian Crabtree performing in Ainola in 2016.

The position of Artistic Director at Our Festival has been one of violinist Pekka Kuusisto’s sources of joy for more than a decade. It gives him the precious opportunity to meet and collaborate with all kinds of sweethearts while watching sparks fly from their limbs, brains and hearts.

The theme of Our Festival in 2017 is the right to a voice.

Not necessarily a typical chamber music festival theme, but a festival run by Kuusisto knows no boundaries and never suppresses great ideas.

Both Finnish and international artists of various disciplines come together alongside chamber music. Kuusisto promises to deliver an art experience that explores nationality and citizenship, indigenous peoples, the genderisation of art forms, the state of public discussion today, marginalisation and the right to voice an opinion.

Our Festival is organised at the end of July in a scenery that is both culturally and historically important to Finland and Finns. Half an hour’s drive from Helsinki lies Tuusulanjärvi, a lake on the shores of which lived a unique community of artists in the beginning of the 20th century.

The impact of these composers, poets, authors and visual artists on Finnishness itself is significant.

Our Festival also takes the visitor to the historic homes of the artists where intimate musical house-shows are held.

Concerts and events take place, for example, in composer Jean Sibelius’ home Ainola, painter Eero Järnefelt’s Suviranta and painter Pekka Halonen’s Halosenniemi.

—It is the duty of a nifty little event to offer thought-provoking art experiences and address topics that are within the public sphere, says Pekka Kuusisto.

Our Festival. 23.–29.7. Tuusulanjärvi. See the web-

site for the programme and directions. ourfestival.fi ‘Our Forest’ at Our Festival 2013.

21

“A frozen movement, the swirl in the glass forms the only decoration.”

1947 Gunnel Nyman: Ylösnousemus (Resurrection) Nyman (1909–1948) was an internationally known Finnish designer. She started her career in designing furniture but later switched to glass.

“Dynamic and charged energy.

One of the most desired glass objects in the world.”

1950 Tapio Wirkkala: Jäävuori ( Iceberg) Triennale di Milano 1951, winner of Gran Premio.

Wirkkala (1915–1985) is known as the leading character of the post-war golden era of Finnish industrial design.

“A noble and empathetic bird combining folk art and mysticism with Modernism.”

1960s Birger Kaipiainen: Kuovi (Curlew) Kaipiainen (1915–1988) was a Finnish designer and ceramist who has been described as a Romanticist fascinated by fantasy.

Juhani Lemmetti

“Perfect style meets perfect surface.”

1958 Kyllikki Salmenhaara: Lentävä lautanen (Flying Saucer) Salmenhaara (1915–1981) was one of the most remarkable ceramists of her time.

DESIGN

Greatest Hits Finnish design built the post-war image of Finland that we know today. At its very core reside glass and ceramic works of art created by celebrated designers.

Juhani founded Aero Design Furniture, taking on the rights for the manufacture of furniture by the renowned Finnish interior architect Ilmari Tapiovaara.

This legacy was continued by Artek in 2010. Lemmetti has since developed Artek’s 2nd Cycle, the iconic furniDesign collector and dealer Juhani Lemmetti chose, for ture company’s wing of sustainable design and a second the readers of You Are Here, 10 important pieces from life for Alvar Aalto’s furniture and other vintage design.

Lemmetti’s new exciting space opened last month. It his collection that brought Finnish design to the interis a platform for both contemporary and historical Finnnational forefront.

Since the 1980s Juhani Lemmetti has been following ish design.

Gallery Lemmetti on Yrjönkatu 8 is open by appointhis passion for Finnish design. Sharing his expertise, he has been able to build both private collections and sup- ment only, but you can get a fantastic view of the wonply museums home and abroad. Besides this, in 1995, ders of Finnish design through the windows. 22

“Muona brought the supple climb into ceramics.”

1942 Toini Muona: Heinä (Hay) vase Muona (1904–1987) was part of the acknowledged art ceramist vanguard of Finnish ceramics.

PHOTOS © TIIU KAITALO

“Free-blowing forms the perfect shape that is both harmonic and dynamic.”

1952 Kaj Franck: Saippuakupla (Soap Bubble) Franck (1911–1989) was one of the leading figures in Finnish design and an influential figure in design and applied arts.

“A glass sculpture’s organic shape is combined with 60s pop colours.”

1966 Oiva Toikka: Bambu (Bamboo) Toikka (1931–) is a Finnish designer and ceramist, best known for his glass birds.

“A glass bubble makes the glass sculpture multidimensional.”

1953 Timo Sarpaneva: Orkidea Milan Triennial 1954, winner of Gran Premio.

Sarpaneva (1926–2006) was an influential Finnish designer, sculptor and educator, best known in the art world for his innovative work with glass.

“An example of how Aalto made the 30s Functionalism more organic. One of the best known glass objects in the world.”

1936 Alvar Aalto: Savoy vase Aalto (1898–1976) was one of the key figures of mid-century Modernism and Finland’s most celebrated architect.

“A great organic sculpture with fragility and strength.”

2013 Kristina Riska: Unlimited Form 3 Riska (1960–) concentrates on creating unique ceramic pieces.

BEAUTIFUL Vintage glass and ceramic ware loved by Finns from various eras are available in well-informed boutiques in Helsinki.

Astiataivas. Mon–Tue 11–17, Wed 11–15:30,

Thu–Fri 11–17, Sat 11–15. Uudenmaankatu 13. astiataivas.fi Fasaani. Mon–Fri 11–18, Sat 11–16. Summer

opening hours: Mon–Thu 11–18, Fri 11–17, Sat 11–15. Korkeavuorenkatu 5. fasaani.fi

Lasikammari. Tue–Thu 12–17. Liisankatu 9.

lasikammari.fi

Gallery Lemmetti. By appointment only.

Yrjönkatu 8. lemmetti.fi

23

Beach Life Helsinki is one of those rare metropolises that boast beautiful beaches right in the heart of the city. Although the beach is not as much of a natural habitat for Helsinkians as it is to the Cariocas of Rio de Janeiro, it is dear on the endless and sunny summer days. Nothing beats a beautiful summer day on the beaches of Helsinki, as the waters glisten beneath a mild summer breeze.

24

OLYMPIC MOOD The Helsinki Swimming Stadium was built for the 1952 Olympic Games and it represented the latest Finnish design. The bold and white Functionalist structure has been a favourite among the inhabitants of the city ever since it was built. They love their lido deeply and the summer does not start until you have had a swim and sunbathed at the stadium. Lidos have their charm and everyday things for Helsinkians can be strangely festive, yet unassuming.

Join in on the fun and see how wonderfully small-scaled the Olympics used to be in the olden days.

The Swimming Stadium. 7.5.–17.9.

Mon–Sat 6:30–20, Sun 9–20. Hammarskjöldintie 5. hel.fi

NEW WAVE SWIMMING Public saunas have made a comeback in Helsinki and they are better than ever.

Allas is the new seawater spa right in the heart of the city, just across the harbour from the Presidential Palace. It offers both freshwater and seawater pools, as well as different saunas, and in the meantime you

can spend time in the café or the restaurant. Allas has quickly become a popular spot both among the inhabitants and visitors. Meanwhile, Allas tells a story of a changing Helsinki. The solemn centre belongs to all, it is part of a changing city after all. Yet another reason to love Helsinki.

Allas Seapool. Mon–Fri 6:15–23,

Sat–Sun 8–23. Katajanokanlaituri 2. allasseapool.fi

STEAMING HOT! More steam! Preferably in Löyly, the new public sauna that is celebrated by everyone in Helsinki as well as international architecture publications. Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No, it is top wooden architecture – an urban, public version of the Finnish Summer dream by a lake or the sea.

Whether you enjoy a sauna bath or not, it is easy to enjoy yourself here. Right next to Löyly is also Helsinki’s tiniest beach, Eiranranta – worth a visit, too!

Löyly. Mon–Wed 16–22, Thu–Sat

13–22, Sat 7:30–10, Sun 13–21. Hernesaarenranta 4. loylyhelsinki.fi

PHOTOS © TIIU KAITALO

BATHING

Swimming Stadium

Most places can easily be reached by bus. The walk from Kauppatori to Löyly is also nice, see You Are Here Summer 2016.

Hietaniemi





CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION

Allas

PIHLAJASAARI PIER

Löyly Veijarivuori

OH HAPPY DAY



PIHLAJASAARI PIER

Aurinkolahti → (in Vuosaari)

 Pihlajasaari



Every Helsinkian has wonderful childhood memories of Pihlajasaari and more are made every summer. A short ferry trip and an ice cream on the wharf trigger the right mood. People picnic on the island and they take it seriously. Helsinkians pack a boxed lunch together with other tidbits and various beach paraphernalia to keep themselves entertained all day long. After a swim in the sea it is time to take a walk in the woods on the island. Pihlajasaari is small so it is OK to get a little lost and the sea is always nearby.

Pihlajasaari. Hourly ferry from Ursinin-

laituri, Merisatamanranta 10, 13.5.–3.9. & 9.–10.9. and from Ruoholahti, Kellosaarenranta 1, 17.6.–13.8. jt-line.fi

GRANDE DAME One beach in Helsinki is above all others, nothing can top it. The Hietaniemi beach is swarming with life day and night in the summer. During the day people go there to be seen, to swim and sunbathe, meet friends, play volleyball, lift weights, flirt and mince about. On hot summer days the long and wide beach is packed with life and especially joy of life. At night, the young meet there before and after clubbing. What could be more fun during the white nights?

Hietaniemi beach. Supervised beach

season 5.6.–13.8. 10–21. Hiekkarannantie 11. hel.fi ↑ Life’s a picnic on Pihlajasaari Island.

KINGS OF SUBURBIA To the bravest we recommend a quick trip outside the centre, either west or east.

To the west is Lauttasaari. Hop on a bus, which nearly takes you to the Vattuniemi (officially Veijarivuori) beach. A short walk through a woods and you are in the most beautiful archipelago scenery in Helsinki.

The cottages in the woods are not inhabited by elves or faeries, they are highly coveted private beach houses. Another Helsinki speciality.

↰ The Swimming Stadium from 1952 boasts a 10m-tall jump tower as well as saunas and even a small gym.

Veijarivuori beach. Itälahdenkatu 2b.

Get off at the last stop on the bus line ↑ Swimming in literally the city centre at Allas Seapool. ←Helsinki’s grand beach, Hietaniemi, is the hot spot for sunbathers, beach volley players and the vacationing youth.

21V or 21BX. hel.fi To the east lies Vuosaari. The metro takes you there. Aurinkolahti is something out of a post-modern dream. White and beautiful, an airy new housing estate by the sea with a promenade running between the buildings and the beach. Oh, would the sun always shine so beautifully as it does here! Aurinkolahti beach. Supervised

beach season 5.6.–13.8. 10–20. Take the metro to Vuosaari. From there take the bus number 90 or walk 1 km.

Urheilukalastajan­kuja 1. hel.fi 25

26

PHOTOS © ED ATKINS: RIBBONS, 2014, PHOTO FNG / PIRJE MYKKÄNEN (PM) • JULIA VARELA X-5.000, 2015, PHOTO FNG / PM • LABEOUF, RÖNKKÖ & TURNER: #ALONETOGETHER, PHOTO FNG / PM • FNG / PM • JUHA VAN INGEN: AS LONG AS POSSIBLE (ASLAP), 2015, KIASMA

ART FOCUS: ARS17 AT KIASMA

Hello World!

Hello ARS17!

ARS exhibitions have always fascinated some while making others irate but most of all they have made generations of Helsinkians talk about art.

Many have been inspired to create art and open up new possibilities for making art. Even more people have been lured into an endless adventure within contemporary art.

Since 1961, contemporary art has been on show in Finland at the ARS exhibitions. The shows have attracted over a million people with works from around 600 artists and collectives. ARS17 is the ninth contemporary art show held for the fourth time at the contemporary art museum Kiasma.

—ARS exhibitions have played a major role in the work of many generations of Finnish artists but they have also brought the latest phenomena of international, contemporary art to the wider audience and revealed many currents of cultural and societal topics through art, says Kiasma’s chief curator Arja Miller.

One of the central questions of the exhibition is how artists have faced the global digital turning point which affects us all. Art also assumes a role in the vanguard of today’s global digitalisation, whose effects can be seen in culture, the economy as well as in people’s identities and behaviour.

Contemporary art is dependent on the digital revolution but it also questions its impact and helps us structure our surrounding world. The Internet is addictive and influential: how strongly have digitalisation and various forms of social media changed our perception of reality?

—ARS17 wants to leave a mark with surprise and an experience of new artistic encounters in a world permeated by the Internet and digitalisation. Despite a theme leaning on the digital, many works exhibited at ARS17 are not media art: there are sculptures, installations and performances, says Arja Miller.

ARJA MILLER’S THREE FAVOURITES AT ARS17

(1) LaBeouf, Rönkkö & Turner’s

performance will be one of the most interesting works at the exhibition. The artists themselves do not yet know what will take place during the monthlong performance. That is up to the viewers!

(2) Rachel Rossin’s piece that

↰ Ed Atkins’ video installation Ribbons, 2014. ←← Julia Varela’s installation Hijacked features mutilated flat screens. ←Nastja Säde Rönkkö at the cabin that will serve as the hub of LaBeouf, Rönkkö & Turner’s performance #ALONETO­ GETHER.

utilises virtual reality (VR) is definitely going to be one of the highlights of the exhibition.

The work depicts an explosion which the viewer experiences through a VR headset and is taken through a chain of events, which she can influence by moving back and forth within the room.

(3) Juha van Ingen’s gif anima-

tion ASLAP (As Long As Possible) is a thousand-year-long GIF animation that starts during the opening week of ARS. Kiasma has pledged to keep it running for as long as possible. The work is minimalist on the outside yet immense within.

↑ The first frame of Juha van Ingen’s gif animation ASLAP.

until

14.1.

2018

Kiasma. ARS17. Hello World! until 14.1.2018. Tue 10–17, Wed–Fri 10–20:30, Sat 10–18, Sun 10–17.

Mannerheiminaukio 2. kiasma.fi

27

A Nation Wakes Up to Progress Finns cannot look back at a distant and glorious past – Ancient history, the Renaissance or Colonialism. In its stead they have a brilliant century as an independent state that made Finland a progressive and affluent Nordic realm. Swedes we did not become, nor did we become Russians. We became Finns and are fairly good at it. How that happened is what the Modern Life! exhibition shows.

Modern Life! – Finnish Modernism and the International Dimension exhibition presents the highlights of architecture, industrial design, visual arts and photography, which played their part in creating a modern and international Finland between 1917 and 1968. The magnificent overview of Finnish visual arts, design, architecture and photography also displays ordinary life. The exhibition, consisting of over 300 pieces, is definitely memorable.

—The 80-year-old monument of Modernist architecture, Tennispalatsi, home to both HAM (Helsinki Art Museum) and the largest cineplex in Finland, is the perfect place for the show, reminds HAM’s director, Maija Tanninen-Mattila.

During the first five decades of independence Finland went through a massive change. A divided, agrarian and poor country grew into a modern, urban and international welfare state. The Second World War briefly interrupted the positive development. A young nation became respected and grew in self-esteem at world’s fairs and international competitions. Finland’s fame was mainly built on immaterial strengths, nature and creative people.

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Modernist architects designed ↰↰ A 1956 UPO cities and homes with improve- refridgerator ad. ments in quality of life, efficiency ↰ Tapio Wirkkala’s and functionality in mind. Design- Kantarelli vase ers created both beautiful every- from 1946. day items and objets d’art. Artists led Finnish art into a more abstract ↑ The Finnish paform of expression and photogra- villion at the New York World’s Fair phers captured modern people and in 1939. the changing city. The general public did not readily take in modern expression, which was frowned upon, especially in popular culture.

—I find the model that depicts Eliel Saarinen’s plan for the Herald Tribune skyscraper in Chicago to be the most interesting piece in the exhibition. It is as if you were to step into Gotham City. Even more enigmatic is the fact that Saarinen had never seen a single skyscraper when he drew the plan, says HAM’s director Maija Tanninen-Mattila.

Alongside Eliel Saarinen’s unrealised skyscraper Modern Life! exhibits some of the success stories of Finnish architecture, Viljo Revell’s Toronto city hall, for example. Alvar Aalto is also represented as an architect, designer and city planner. The exhibition sheds light on how Finnish design became a concept.

until

30.7.

HAM. Modern Life! until 30.7.

Tue–Sun 11–19. Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 8. hamhelsinki.fi

PHOTOS © OTSO PIETINEN: UPO OY’S ADVERTISEMENT. 1956. SVM. • TAPIO WIRKKALA: IITTALA-KANTTARELLI, 1946. PHOTO RAUNO TRÄSKELIN / DESIGN MUSEUM • EINO MÄKINEN / ALVAR AALTO -MUSEUM

ART

PHOTOS © OLAFUR ELIASSON: PENTAGONAL LANDSCAPE, 2017. PHOTO: ARI KARTTUNEN / EMMA • THE HOT SPRING SERIES, DETAIL, 2012. PHOTO: OLAFUR ELIASSON • ARI MAGG

THINK TANK The superstar of contemporary art, Olafur Eliasson, is an activist. According to him, the purpose of art is much more than decorating the world. A person should really think about what they receive upon entering a museum.

↑↑ Pentagonal landscape, 2017, with wild forests of Tapiola lurking in the background. ↑ Architectonic nature in its glory.

The Hot Spring Series, detail, 2012. ← Pentagonal landscape, 2017.

—If everything goes well, an epiphany takes place, and even better, the epiphany leads to change or action, says Eliasson.

It is easy to manipulate sight, which affects a person’s view on the world and herself.

—The whole concept of viewing is easy to challenge. What do seeing and viewing mean and how truthful is sight? Eliasson asks.

One of the latest pieces on show is Pentagonal mirror tunnel, consisting of five mirrors. Stand in the middle and a tunnel opens up. The viewer sees herself from behind and the sides and in multiple mirrors. At the same time, she is part of her environment, with the other spectators, EMMA’s (Espoo Museum of Modern Art) concrete architecture and the wild forest of Tapiola lurking at the back.

—Seeing yourself from the outside is related to becoming famous. The piece is a labyrinth where you can get lost and disappear, but what is more important is that you can find yourself in there. ‘I exist’, says Eliasson.

The Lost Compass is a snag that has drifted onto the shores of Iceland. The magnets make it point to the North.

—Museums should help us calibrate our own moral compasses. Museums should not be arrogant nor elitist, says Eliasson.

Eliasson believes that the significance of art grows when trust in politics diminishes. People want to relate to art when they no longer find comfort in politics. They can relate to an artist, something they cannot do with a politician.

—People are, especially locally, extremely tied to a culture and they put their trust in it. The cultural sector must avoid the mistakes made by Hillary Clinton. The sector must observe its own actions and think how to reach out to those who feel worthless and marginalised, Eliasson thinks.

The show also exhibits architectonic nature images and a video and installation that play with the concept of sight.

until

21.5.

Emma. Olafur Eliasson: Pentagonal landscapes until 21.5. Tue & Thu 11–18, Wed & Fri 11–19, Sat–Sun 11–17. Ahertajantie 5, Espoo. emma.museum

29

ART

ART TAKES OVER HELSINKIANS’ NEW LIVING ROOM

PHOTO © HOTEL ST. GEORGE / GALERIE FORSBLOM

As Hotel St. George, the newest member of the Kämp Collection Hotels family, opens in all its glory, Helsinkians and other visitors get a new living room filled with beautiful art.

The centrepiece will be Ai Weiwei’s fascinating Tianwu.

30

ART

PHOTOS © ARMIN LINKE, 2014 • ALVAR AALTO MUSEUM, 1945. PHOTO EINO MÄKINEN • HANS ARP, FAMILY OF STARS, 1955. ARTEK COLLECTION

Waves!

Alvar Aalto (1898–1976) is internationally the bestknown Finnish architect and designer. Alvar Aalto – Art and the Modern Form uncovers new insights into his life and work.

—The initial title of the exhi- ↑↑ Armin Linke’s Alvar Aalto was one of the most prominent international figures of Modernism. Aalto was a full-blooded cosmop- bition ‘Alvar Aalto – Second Na- photograph of Aalto’s olite within a global network: together with Aino Aalto ture’ alludes to the objective of Viipuri City Library, 1927–1935.

(1894–1949), his architect partner, he was internationally Jochen Eisenbrand’s intention to active since the 1920s. The idea of the Gesamtkundswerk, depict the interaction between ↑ Hans Arp: Family of the total work of art, was important to Aalto: he worked Aalto and his contemporary art- Stars, 1955. ists together with the oft-menwithin architecture, city planning, design and art.

—To quote his friend, artist Fernand Léger, Aalto used tioned relation to Finnish nature ↰ Alvar Aalto in his studio in 1945. to call himself Chef d’orchestre, the conductor, who com- and natural forms, says Sointu bines all forms of art to create a harmonious, symphonic Fritze.

—Ateneum has curated a comentity, says Sointu Fritze, Ateneum’s chief curator.

The retrospective, curated by Vitra Design Museum’s prehensive and interesting collection of works from curator Jochen Eisenbrand, depicts Aalto’s life and Aalto’s closest artist friends, such as Fernand Léger, Alwork from the 1920s to the 1970s. Exhbited are iconic exander Calder and Lászlo Moholy-Nagy. These paintpieces of furniture and other items, as well as architec- ings, sculptures and prints were mainly bought by Finntonic drawings and models. The diversified and interdis- ish private collectors at Artek’s shows from the 1930s ciplinary Aalto is also displayed through archive materi- until the 1950s. al, works of art, photographs and short films, together with previously unseen photographs of Aalto’s architecAteneum. Alvar Aalto – Art and the modern ture by the German photographer Armin Linke. form 11.5.–24.9. Tue–Fri 10–18, Wed–Thu 11.5.– 10–20, The comprehensive exhibition illustrates how Aalto’s Sat–Sun 10–17. Kaivo­katu 2.

24.9. organic design language developed in interplay with the ­ateneum.fi time’s visual artists.

31

It’s Cocktail o’Clock Cheers to Helsinki’s elegant cocktail bars where they know how to make their customers happy. Hurrah to the Helsinkian cocktail culture!

What is best about cocktails? Definitely the first feeling of the alcohol reaching the brain’s limbic system’s pleasure centres. Hello there, dopamines! Hit it! Do your good stuff.

Drinking alcohol has never been difficult for Finns, as is well known. However, in the last ten years alcohol consumption has become more refined, and new wine bars, craft beer pubs, and finally real cocktail bars have opened up around Helsinki.

32

Now we’re ready to talk about a cocktail culture. Helsinki has become an internationally interesting cocktail town. The boom has been so big it has been noted abroad.

—It isn’t about developing new mixes anymore as whole new bar and restaurant concepts are created, say bartenders Antti Kuitunen and Juho Eklund. Kuitunen is a partner at Son of a Punch ltd., while Eklund is in charge of the company’s crown jewel, the Trillby & Chadwick cocktail bar.

Cocktail lounge A21 on Annankatu was the herald of the change. It opened in 2007 in the premises of an old sex shop. Sweet; the only way of getting in was to press a doorbell, if there was room, and there usually wasn’t.

How about them cocktails!

—A21 was the first real cocktail bar in Helsinki after a long time. Its effect was enormous. Timo Siitonen is a pioneer in the business and A21 is still a marvellous place, Kuitunen gives credit to his colleague.

—No more Sunsets and -rises, Blue Angels, tropical liqueurs, milk (sic!) or accessories; at A21 cocktails were skillfully created by mixing top quality ingredients, Kuitunen continues.

The founders, Matti Santala, Niko Autti and Timo Sii­ tonen got their knowledge and inspiration from London.

PHOTOS © TIIU KAITALO

MIXOLOGY

← Done to perfection. ↓ Gin & Tonic new style. ↓↓ Antti Kuitunen and Juho Eklund looking for the rum-runner at their speakeasy.

A21 was the kickstart for cocktails in town but the real boom started with the founding of Liberty or Death on Erottaja in 2012. The hype around the bar was massive and the place was absolutely packed during weekends.

—The success of the place paved the way for other cocktail bars, says Kuitunen.

The boom gave birth to the bartenders’ own company Son of a Punch ltd., which, in five years, has built a small cocktail empire in Helsinki. Now there are five personalised bars with unique concepts, Liberty or Death, 100 Dogs, Books & Antiques, Rusty Bar and Trillby & Chadwick.

—The company has five owners and everyone of us is all in and we all work in the bars. That’s why they’ve stayed first-rate, says Kuitunen.

The pride of the company is the speakeasy with no address, Trillby & Chadwick. It might be situated opposite the Cathedral but who knows for sure?

—That’s my realm, says Eklund, who has been in charge of Trillby & Chadwick for the past year.

The speakeasy theme is present everywhere: at the entrance, in the decoration, on the drinks list obviously, while photography is banned and the bartenders dress 33

Gin & Tonic with the award-winning Helsinki Dry Gin.

GIN GIN Gin & Tonic is not itself anymore.

Really, and that is a good thing.

—The biggest thing in the success of gins is the development of the cocktail culture. Because of it the demand for gins has grown, and gin is one of the most popular choices for alcohol in drinks, says bartender Timo Siitonen. Siitonen’s A21 bar has had a Gin & Tonic menu for the last three years.

Siitonen talks about New Style gins: by tuning Gin & Tonic with spices and garnitures, the features of the gin are highlighted and more depth is brought into the drink. No wonder that Gin & Tonic now entices those who have previously not appreciated the long drink.

Cause or effect, gin production and development are now interesting to alcohol manufacturers, and new gins are readily available.

—The world-wide success of Finnish gins has brought the drink to a new level. I find it great that the consumers’ awareness of the differences in the tastes of various gins and tonics has grown.

When Siitonen enjoys a Gin & Tonic it is acidic and citric.

—One of my favourites is the Teurastamo GT that includes the Helsinki Distilling Company’s Dry Gin, pink grapefruit, lingonberries and Fever Tree Indian Tonic. The combination brings together the acidicity of red berries with the tanginess of pink grapefruit, says Siitonen.

34

the part. Naturally, punters leave the bar through a curtain and the back door.

A brilliant cocktail is always more than the sum of its ingredients: it is a promise of an ambience. For the bartender it is a proof of skills and innovativeness and a knowledge of history.

At the turn of the last decade some bartenders were interested in the roots of the cocktail: what people used to drink, how cocktails were made when there were no exotic fruits and strawberries available in the middle of the winter.

—A lot of cocktail archaeology was done back then.

We would rummage through the archives of old restaurants, looking for drinks lists with drinks to find out what was drunk at the time, says Juho.

The historic documents brought forward the old classics, Dry Martinis, Negronis and others made with only a few ingredients. They were also in line with the Finnish alcohol laws that strictly regulate the strength of drinks and cocktails. A cocktail may contain a maximum of 4cl of spirits, which makes you really think which ingredients to mix and how you use them.

Kuitunen and Eklund encapsulate the essence of the deal: they have to mix drinks the patrons like, otherwise cocktail culture is not getting anywhere.

CHEERS TO THAT! A21 Decades. Tue–Wed 17–24, Thu 17–01,

Fri–Sat 17–02. Annankatu 21. a21.fi

Liberty or Death. Mon–Tue 16–01, Wed–

Sat 16–02. Erottjankatu 5. libertyordeath. bar Lilla e. Mon–Thu 16–00, Fri–Sat 15–01,

Sun 15–23. lillaroberts.com

Rusty Bar. Tue–Wed 17–00, Thu 17–02, Fri–

Sat 17–04. Kanavanranta 7. rusty.bar

Trillby & Chadwick. Mon–Thu 16–01, Fri–

Sat 16–02. trillbychadwick.fi

100 Dogs, Books & Antiques. Tue 16–11:30,

Wed–Thu 16–01, Fri–Sat 16–02, Sun 16–01.

Malminrinne 1. 100dogs.fi

↓ Exotic Scandi cocktails: Isokari Sour and Koivu (birch tree), coming up!

—It seems that the patrons’ taste is going towards a drier and more bitter direction, says Kuitunen.

Enthusiasm and openness are behind the rise of the cocktail culture. Everyone in the field agrees that envy and bitter sulking do not advance the common cause.

—The Helsinki cocktail community is compact and small. We’re all working for a common goal and there is no need to fight over positions. If your mate opens a bar you know it’s good for everyone. It’s good to work together when you know that help is always available, says Eklund.

Customers have become conscious and demanding following the rise in interest in cocktails. Today, it is typical to meet your friends for a cocktail before dinner.

—Customers know exactly what goes into the drinks and what the differences are between various gins and whiskeys. That makes it challenging for us, Juho continues.

Kuitunen’s and Eklund’s favourite drinks are classic and simple.

—I’m a Negroni-Boulevardier-man, confesses Juho Eklund.

—There are three things that never go out of fashion: the colour black, cash and Gin & Tonic, clarifies Antti Kuitunen. 35

RESTAURANTS Vinkkeli

Let’s Do Lunch!

Helsinkians love lunch. You meet up with friends and gossip over lunch, see a love interest and fall in love. Business meetings are held over lunch, clients are charmed and decisions to take over the world are made.

A lunch can be a quick one, but you definitely need to go out. Sometimes a lunch takes long enough for it to turn into a dinner. A lunch 36

can also be anything in between the two.

We share our favourite lunch places with you, and just like you, every now and then, we want a fine dining experience in the finest local restaurants. Sometimes you are in a hurry, and need food immediately, while then and again you have the time to have lunch at one of the café classics in Helsinki.

Lunch is a central part of life in Helsinki. You just can’t miss it. Nothing could be better than having lunch all day long, although once a day is enough. Lunch with the Helsinkians. If you ask the locals they tell you it beats many sights hands down.

Vinkkeli’s lamb from Åland with summer vegetables and dark garlic sauce.

LUNCH Savoy

The Mannerheim table at Savoy

Olo’s ‘Nest’

➀ Fine Dining PHOTOS © VINKKELI • TIIU KAITALO • SAVOY • OLO

Sometimes you just need to dine a bit finer.

LUNCHING WITH ALVAR AALTO

Savoy is still the one and only as the finest restaurant in Helsinki celebrates 80 years in 2017. In line with tradition it offers a choice of five lunch menus: from the fivecourse Menu Kitchen Inspiration to the three-course Menu Mannerheim.

Savoy has been the place for the industrial, business and economic elite, but luckily today the elegant service and wonderful food are available to all. Almost

as important is the interior from 1937, designed by the young Alvar Aalto himself.

Vinkkeli. Mon 11:30–14, Tue–Fri

11:30–14 & 17–24, Sat 17–24. Pieni Roobertinkatu 8. ravintolavinkkeli.fi

Savoy. Mon–Fri 11:30–15 & 18–24. Sat 18–24. Eteläesplanadi 14. ravintolasavoy.fi



BORN TO BE CLASSIC

Vinkkeli must have fallen out of the sky into Helsinki’s restaurant scene: it simply appeared out of nowhere a year ago, brilliant and complete with food, wine, surroundings and staff.

Well, to tell the truth, Vinkkeli’s founders came from Savoy restaurant, so they do know a thing or two about finer dining.

You choose three courses from a selection for your lunch at Vinkkeli. The choices always include a classic, a classic and a classic.

O LO LA!

Restaurant Olo’s lunch consists of four courses. When there is arctic char and malt bread or moose and sea-buckthorn on the menu, you know the ingredients play the main part. Pure, beautiful and simple.

—The less you’ve got on your plate, the more carefully it has to be prepared, maître d’hôtel Jari Vesivalo puts it concisely.

Chef de cuisine Pekka Terävä, and Helsinki’s strong fine-dining-without-a-fuss tradition are behind restaurant Olo. The place has held a Michelin star since 2011.

Restaurant Olo. Tue–Fri 11:30–15 &

18–24. Pohjoisesplanadi 5. olo-ravintola.fi

37

RESTAURANTS Maxill

Bystro

➁ Local Restaurants Here are the absolutely best locals in Kaartinkaupunki, Ullanlinna and Punavuori.

OH BORSCHT, WHAT A SOUP

A bowlful of borscht soup, some homemade sour cream, sourdough bread and butter. If you like to go crazy, order a side of fermented vegetables: cabbage, carrot and even tomato. Or enjoy a blini with roe for lunch. That is exactly what a Russian lunch at Bystro is like: excellent, authentic and real food from across our eastern border. A glass of black tea with a dollop of raspberry jam finishes off the meal.

Bystro. Tue–Fri 11–23:30, Sat

12–23:30, Su 14–20. Eteläranta 16. bystro.fi

VIVE LA TRADITION!

Maxill, a true local on the very own high street of the fancy Ullanlinna area has a

38

wonderful atmosphere, thanks to the loyal regulars. Maxill is perfect for observing Korkeavuorenkatu while you lunch and spy on the life of southern Helsinki: stylish seniors, fashionable young families, and oh, how many dachshunds there are! The lunch menu changes twice a week and, obviously, all the seasonal favourites are celebrated here: asparagus, new potatoes, freshwater crayfish and other delicacies.

Maxill. Mon–Tue 11:30–24, Wed–Fri

11–30–01, Sat 13–01. Korkeavuorenkatu 4. maxill.fi

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL LUNCH

Restaurant Kamome loves Finland, Kamome loves Japan and Helsinkians love Kamome. It is unfathomable, yet delicate, how Kamome combines the cuisines of two cultures: the Nordic-Finnish courses and the Japanese way of cooking. Washoku: less is more and the focus is on the essentials, the beauty of the ingredients and their original flavour. Lunch here lasts an hour, although when you are just about to finish your meal you wish it would never end.

Kamome. Mon–Fri 11–15 & 17–22, Sat 17–22. Pursimiehenkatu 12. kamome.fi



Naughty Brgr

➂ The Straight­ forward When hunger strikes, you quickly need good food.

NAUGHTY OR NICE

Naughty Brgr is the bread and butter, or should we say beef and cheese, of Akseli Herlev, winner of the Finnish Top Chef. The namesake burger includes a 100% Finnish beef patty, cheddar, St Agur blue cheese, bacon jam, rocket and aïoli. Should you want to make it a little lighter try adding a side of sweet potato chips. Yeah, a bit on the naughty side, but who’s counting?

Naughty Brgr. Tue–Sat 11–22, Sun

12–19. Lönnrotinkatu 13. naughtybrgr.com

BY THE SEASIDE

Ahoy, do come in! Ye Olde Market Hall in Eteläsatama is a grand building and right

PHOTOS © KAMOME • MAXILL • BYSTRO • NAUGHTY BRGR

Kamome

LUNCH Story

Hoku

Fazer

Ekberg

Fat Ramen, Hietalahti market hall

in the middle of it is restaurant Story. Story serves honest market hall food, such as salmon soup, although, as the founders of the joint include a Michelin star restaurateur, the food definitely comes with a twist. Coffee and cinnamon buns by Patisserie Teemu & Markus for afters, no?

food court in Helsinki, and Hoku is top of the line. Tastes range from sweet to savoury and whatever lies in between. Asian and Pacific treats are combined in true Hawaiian fashion in the restaurant that has totally swept Helsinkians off their feet.

The window seats offer a wonderful view of the city.

between the day’s soup and buffet lunch.

Since the café includes a famous bakery it is difficult to leave without something small and sweet for the afternoon: a rum baba, a chocolate pastry or an Alexandertorte. Design enthusiasts, be aware! The light fittings in the ceiling are by Paavo Tynell.

Story. Mon–Fri 8–18, Sat 8–18. Vanha

Kauppahalli, Eteläranta. restaurantstory.fi

PHOTOS © STORY • HOKU • FAZER • EKBERG • FAT RAMEN

LATE AND LATER LUNCHES

The market hall in Hietalahti is Helsinki’s gourmet hall. Many interesting, small restaurants have found their home here: kimchi, street gastro, hamburgers, ramen noodles, sushi, fish and seafood and what not. What is best, after lunch the hall is open from Wednesday to Saturday until 10pm. How late can a late lunch be? Very, very late.

Hietalahti market hall. Mon–Tue

8–18, Wed–Sat 8–22. Lönnrotinkatu 34. hietalahdenkauppahalli.fi

ALOHA SALMON!

Up! Up! The fifth floor of the Kamppi shopping centre houses the sweetest

Hoku. Mon–Thu 11–15 & 17–22, Sat

11–15 & 17–23, Sun 12–16 & 17–23.

Kamppi shopping centre, 5th floor.

Urho Kekkosen katu 1. hoku.fi

➃ Classic Cafés

Both Ekberg Café and Fazer Café on Kluuvikatu are well over a hundred years old and they truly know how to serve a good lunch.

ON THE BOULEVARD

Cafe Ekberg opens up for a buffet breakfast at eight in the morning and starts serving lunch at eleven. You can choose

Ekberg Café. Mon–Fri 7:30–19,

Sat 8:30–19, Sun 9–17. Bulevardi 9. ekberg.fi

SEE YOU AT FAZER’S!

Fazer’s café on Kluuvikatu is an uber-Helsinkian institution, whose cupola salon opened already in 1891. Watch out! It’s best not to reveal any big secrets under the cupola as every whisper is carried around to each and every table across the room.

Lunch at Fazer’s is always fun, with lots of people, a lively atmosphere and good food.

If you want to eat outside, on the steps of the cathedral, for example, order take away. However, don’t forget to grab a coffee and a fresh, sweet roll!

Fazer Café Kluuvikatu. Mon–Fri

7:30–22, Sat 9–22, Sun 10–18.

Kluuvikatu 3. fazer.fi

39

MUSIC FOCUS

A NATION AWAKENS

W

hy does everything suddenly go wrong in a man’s life? Kullervo seduces his sister, kills his enemy and finally turns his blade against himself. When the rugged Kalevalan tragedy and young Jean Sibelius collided, an epic work of Finnish music and national awakening was born. Kullervo’s story is now seen as a dance piece at the National Ballet as the internationally renowned dance artist Tero Saarinen grasps the destiny of a torn man. The stage is filled with raw energy as the Opera Choir is accompanied by the YL Male Voice Choir.

—At a very early stage we realised that we did not want to make a Kalevalan pastiche, and in its stead we would extend the piece into a universal study of humanity, says Tero Saarinen.

The composer’s youth and interest in oral poetry can be heard in the piece that Sibelius wrote during his early National Romantic period. In the meanwhile, the elegance of classical music is ever present.

—The two extremes add friction that inspired me and led my imagination in a certain direction although there were some clear boundaries, Saarinen says.

40

Kullervo’s story has interested Saarinen since long.

It is universal and timeless. When the artistic director of the National Opera, Lilli Paasikivi, suggested Sibelius’ piece, Saarinen did not have to think for long.

—Kullervo’s destiny is often seen as the tragedy of the Finnish male. We don’t own Kullervo’s trauma.

His fate is universal. New Kullervos are constantly born in in war-torn environments where there are no prospects.

Kullervo’s misfortunate childhood, identity problems, uncontrollable emotions and a ruined life lead to revenge, an eternal theme. Saarinen says the themes are comparable to Sophocles’ Electra and Shakespeare’s Hamlet. On the other hand, nothing is more contemporary than discussing alienation, marginalisation and exclusion.

—Kullervo bears the weight of his family’s accumulated hatred and takes it forward. The current question is whether an individual can stop a cycle of hate and find a more meaningful and positive reason to live rather than seek revenge, Saarinen says. Kullervo. 29.4.–13.5. Finnish National Opera and Ballet.

Helsinginkatu 58. oopperabaletti.fi

PHOTO © FINNISH NATIONAL OPERA AND BALLET / SAKARI VIIKA

NATIONAL OPERA

YO MAN!

VOICE OF FINLAND

Choreographer Kader Attou, currently enjoying international fame, has created The Roots, a hip hop piece for eleven male dancers, which has won over audiences and critics from New York to Paris. Now they take Helsinki.

The Roots returns to the roots of hip hop, while playfully questioning the identity of the dance style. The inspirations from his youth – circus and boxing – the combination of both eastern and western dance styles are the influences for the piece about humanity, and the recognition and ignorance of otherness.

On the last Saturday of May, Avanti! will be playing at the Helsinki Music Centre with ­Karita Mattila, one of the most luminous sopranos in the world. Mattila became an internationally renowned celebrity when she won the first Cardiff Singer of the World competition in 1983, the same year the succesful Avanti! chamber orchestra was founded. Now their paths cross once again, resulting in music in all the hues of love: longing, deceit, romance and happiness.

The Roots. National Theatre. 25.–27.5. Läntinen teatterikuja 1. kansallisteatteri.fi



Avanti! & Karita Mattila. 27.5.

Mannerheimintie 13 A. avantimusic.fi

41

MUSIC

The Weekend Festival in August is all about EDM.

All of the great music festivals in Helsinki have turned into great celebrations of ­culture; huge gatherings, where prime music is enjoyed with food, drink, art, and first of all ­people and summer days that go on forever.

42

Sideways is always sold out. One big name tops the bill and this year it is Röyksopp from Norway.

Sideways. Teurastamo, 9.–10.6.

sidewayshelsinki.fi

Alt. Everything Helsinki festival sum9.–10.6. The mer starts with the latest and most alternative party. Sideways is the alt. urban culture and music festival where the strong winds of progress blow.

It is small-scale, fun and devoutly experimental in every way.

Whether it comes down to music, food or art, it is essential to experience the new or perhaps the newest in the scene. The programme has been curated with care.

No Pain No Gain are metal mad.

30.6.–2.7. Finns Heavy metal has never been in fashion, nor out of fashion in the country. A lifestyle could never be. Hence it is no surprise that the largest metal festi-

PHOTOS © JULIUS KONTTINEN •MINNA HATINEN • AKU AXEL MUUKKA

MEET ALL OF HELSINKI’S TRIBES IN ONE GO

PHOTOS © LIVENATION •JULIUS KONTTINEN • FLOWFESTIVAL. PHOTO SAMULI PENTTI •FULLSTEAM

MUSIC val in the Nordic Countries, Tuska (Pain), is held in Helsinki.

Tuska Open Air Metal Festival brings together fans of heavy music at the old power plant grounds in Suvilahti. Tuska is all black and does not recognise any shades of grey. The 20th anniversary programme is as intense and heavy as ever before.

This year, the main acts include Mastodon, HIM, Suicidal Tendencies, Mayhem, Brujeria, Apocalyptica, Electric Wizard and Dirkschneider.

The side events and after-party clubs around the city allow you to join in on an even more oppressive feeling around the town. Tuska is also very visible in the city.

Fear ye not! All the black-clad goons are actually extremely friendly Finns, trying hard to cover up their lovely side.

Tuska. Suvilahti, 30.6.–2.7.

tuska.fi

Salt and Pepper is always a p ­ leasant one29.7. Kaisafest day minifestival in K ­aisa­ niemi Park, right in the heart of Helsinki. This year, head-lining is the pukka, chilli-pep-

pery act known for their live performances, Red Hot Chili Peppers, with top Finnish names warming up. Easy-going, comfy and very chilled. Head to the park!

Kaisafest. Kaisaniemi park, 29.7.

menolippu.fi/kaisafest2017

Just Go with the Flow after Helsinkians 11.–13.8. Right have finished their holiFancy Some EDM? is actually more 4.–6.8. Weekend of a tremendous party or the world’s largest outdoor club rather than a festival. As the other music festivals in Helsinki attempt to caress the soul, Weekend concentrates on your feet and how to make them move in the most effective way.

To make that happen the programme essentially depends on the top names in EDM. This year, the gigantic Helsinki home party is headlined by the likes of Armin van Buuren, Chainsmokers, Clean Bandit and Deadmau5. Party on and let’s dance!

days and returned to their hometown, as summer slowly turns into autumn, Flow Festival bursts into action. The pride and joy of the town is one of the most remarkable urban culture and music festivals in the world and is marked in golden letters in the calendars of every fashionable Helsinkian.

People go there to see and to be seen, everyone is at Flow. That is: everyone.

Music, the arts, food and talks – all of them as trendy and stylish as possible.

Every year the programme is fiercely debated, especially the top acts flirting with the mainstream; and every year people are charmed by them at the old grounds of the power plant.

This summer, the top acts include Frank Ocean, Lana del Rey, The xx, Aphex Twin and Young Thug, with up-and-coming indie, electro and techno on the sidelines for the more demanding festival-going avant-garde. Be charmed, surrender to the flow.

Weekend Festival.

Kyläsaari, 4.–6.8. wknd.fi

Flow Festival. ­Suvilahti, 11.–13.8.

flowfestival.com

Twinkle, Twinkle Great Star! revenue logic 4.5.–19.6. The of the music industry has changed and what a stroke of luck it has been for Helsinki. The biggest stars are now ­happy to entertain Helsinkians too. We like to be entertained so bring it on!

Kiss. 4.5.  Patricia Kaas. 12 & 13.5.

 Enrique Iglesias. 7.5. Hans Zimmer.

16.5. Bruno Mars 22.5. The 1975.

14.6.  Foo Fighters. 19.6.

43

EVENTS

HIGHLIGHTS OF THE WHITE NIGHTS

Kuvis

Helsinki loves the summer and summer festivals. Never a dull moment. Meet new people and roll with the flow. Everything ­Helsinkians love is on offer –c ­ offee, food, beer and finally a sauna bath to call it a night. ­Obviously.

Midsummer Night’s Dream 23.6.

We Are the Hobbits! every Finn lives a forest 1.4.– Within Hobbit. Why not? The forest makes your body feel great and the effects are physical: it enhances your temper, decreases brain strain and stress while it lowers your blood pressure.

The forest does not frighten Finns because that’s where they look for peace of mind: 96 per cent of Finns consider themselves nature lovers. Finland is one big mindfulness paradise. No wonder, since it has not been too long that Finns actually lived in the forest.

The Korkeasaari Zoo introduces you to the diversity of Finnish nature with 7.5 acres of Finnish Forest area at the southern tip of the island. The rocky archipelago pine forest theme park is full of Finnish beasts of prey, apart from the wolf, and many endangered small mammals and birds.

Korkeasaari Zoo. April 10–18, May–

August 10–20, September 10–18.

Mustikkamaanpolku 12. korkeasaari.fi 44

(1) Seurasaari

Open-Air Museum.

Summer opening hours Mon–Sun 11–17.

Take the bus number 24. seurasaaren­ juhannusvalkeat.fi

(2) Mattolaituri. Mon–

Sat 9–02, Sun 9–24.

Ehrenströmintie 3. facebook.com/mattolaituri

(3) Löyly. Mon–Thu 11–22, Fri 11–24, Sat

10–24, Sun 10–21.

Sauna: Mon–Wed 16–22, Thu–Sat 13–22, Sun 13–21. Morning sauna: Sat 7:30–10.

Hernesaarenranta 4. loylyhelsinki.fi

Let’s Fool About! are two types 12.–21.5. There of people in the world.

Those who hate the circus and those who love it. If you belong to the latter group, sharpen your senses.

The Cirko Festival is an annual and internationally acclaimed contemporary circus festival, and the largest one in the Nordic countries. The festival presents the most interesting new circus from Finland and around the world. The cutting-edge Australian contemporary circus troupe Circa pay their first visit to Finland during the festival. Obviously, even those who hate the circus are welcome to join in and change their mind!

↑ Sometimes life is simply a lovely circus.

Cirko Festival. 12.–21.5.

Kaasutehtaankatu 1. cirko.fi

PHOTOS © VISIT FINLAND • JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI • ANDY PHILLIPSON

↑ Go Hobbit in the forest! The less adventurous can also enojy the wilderness in the comfort of the Korkeasaari Zoo.

Midsummer is sacred to Finns. Not long ago it was so sacred that all Helsinkians fled the capital en masse to spend it in the country. Therefore visitors used to encounter a deserted city where every door was closed all weekend.

Today, more and more Helsinkians decide to work their Midsummer magic in the city. The Midsummer party in Seurasaari is the ideal place to join in the traditional rites. The pulse of an urban Midsummer is best enjoyed on restaurant Mattolaituri’s patio. For a Midsummer sauna and a dip in the sea, head to Löyly.

EVENTS

More Steam!

PHOTOS © SAUNA FESTIVAL

9.–11.6.

There are five million people and three million saunas in Sauna festival. 8.–11.6.

Mäntymäen kenttä, ­Finland, which means there are as many saunas as there Mäntymäki 2. are cars. Every Finn could enjoy a sauna at the same time, and so we did saunafestival.fi every Saturday evening up until the 70s.

Earlier, saunas were used for bathing, being born in and getting bet- ↑ Finns love sauna in all shapes ter. Today, the sauna is an essential part of relaxation – alone, with the and sizes. The most experimental sauna architecture of today is also family or with friends. present in the Sauna Festival.

The Finnish Sauna Festival celebrates sauna culture in the middle of Helsinki. Over 40 saunas and a gigantic 250-person-seating sauna are warmed up in the centre of the town. You are welcome to try out all of the modern versions of sauna, from yoga to pilates sauna, and taste the latest sauna delicacies. Top artists are present to make the event ever so wonderful. Bravely step into the essence of what it is to be Finnish.

Wander about and wonder what on Earth is going on!



45

#reasontocometohelsinki

EVENTS

Happy Birthday, Helsinki!

↑ Ladies, set, go! Naisten Kymppi ( Women’s Ten ) fills the streets with running women.

Naisten Kymppi 2017 Kymppi is a be20.–21.5. Naisten loved classic in the Helsinki events calendar. Women of all ages, looks and sizes take over the town and run ten kilometres cheered on by crowds of supporters. The style is free and the dress code is free. Women and running are celebrated, both of which are truly worth celebration.

Naisten Kymppi is organised for the 34th time on a Sunday. The Saturday before is filled with talks and demo lessons related to exercise and well-being on Kansalaistori. Should we slip into our running shoes?

Naisten kymppi. 20.–21.5. naistenkymppi.fi

PHOTOS © NAISTEN KYMPPI • TASTE OF HELSINKI • VISIT HELSINKI



↑ One of the best restaurants in Helsinki, Ask, took part in Taste of Helsinki last summer.

Eat, Drink Helsinki a reason, Helsinkians 15.–18.6. For are excited about their restaurants: Helsinki has, surreptitiously, risen to become one of the most interest-

Two Important Dates!

Is Helsinki’s birthday.

Night of the Arts.

12.6. All 24.8. The sorts of everything The whole city comes all day long. Join Helsinkians celebrating their favourite city with concerts, happenings and exhibitions. And of course, the summer. It’s finally here.

Helsinki Day. All around town.

helsinkipaiva.fi

ing restaurant capitals of the world. Taste of Helsinki makes the city’s rich restaurant culture easily accessible, fun and extremely delicious.

For the sixth year running, the event has become a way for Helsinkians to gather up with friends to enjoy great food, drinks and atmosphere just before the summer holidays.

The concept is simple. Ten top restaurants offer 39 different experiences for your taste buds in summery Helsinki. Local foodstuff is available as well as demonstrations by top chefs. Quality champagnes, beers, ciders and coffees go well with the delish dishes. The table is set. The Helsinki summer tastes absolutely wonderful!

Taste of Helsinki. 15.–18.6.

Kansalaistori park. Tasteofhelsinki.fi

out to celebrate the arts until very late at night. Museums, theatres, the opera, concert halls, galleries, shops, cafés and restaurants all join in.

The Night of the Arts. All around

town. helsinginjuhlaviikot.fi Cheers!

26.–29.7. Beer mer

and Finnish sumare inseparable.

Thanks to the vivacious craft beer activity, Finnish beer culture is experiencing a spiralling success for the first time. A popular festival brings together both the brewers and punters right in the centre of town.

Great Beers – Small Breweries is the quintessential Finnish beer and brewery event that also attracts Nordic craft breweries and their products in a nation-against-nation contest. Beers, ciders and sahti as well as distillations are on offer, with live music, delicious food and whatever you need for downing a pint. All you need is a merry mood to join in and learn to pronounce kippis ja kulaus!

Suuret Oluet Pienet Panimot.

26.–29.7. Rautatientori. suuretoluet.fi 47

SUMMER THE WHOLE ARCHIPELAGO ON A THREE-HOUR DAY CRUISE There are over 300 islands off the coast of Helsinki. Experience the most beautiful scenery on board a private boat piloted by a seasoned skipper. How about a cruise through narrow canals into the historic Suomenlinna, 19th century bastions in Vallisaari and the beautiful nature reserves on Kuninkaansaari? Then again, why not bring a hamper and picnic on the white beaches of Pihlajasaari or sail into the sunset with friends or family? Make a wish and it’ll come true.

1

 Set sail at the reception at Hotel Haven, +358 9 681 930, info@hotelhaven.fi.

JUST RIB IT! Enjoy the archipelago post-haste.

It is always fun to be on a RIB boat. Even a large party can enjoy the archipelago and its nature, and satisfy their need for speed on a bigger RIB. The boat’s top speed is 100 kilometres an hour.

On a two-hour trip you get to see the most beautiful scenery of the archipelago and all the famous sights (such as the Presidential Palace, Kaivopuisto and Suomenlinna) and perhaps spot a seal. During the trip there is a stop ashore an island with coffee and packed lunch.

2



Let rib and contact the reception at Hotel Haven, +358 9 681 930, info@hotelhaven.fi.

BIKE LIKE A LOCAL

3 48

Helsinki is a very bike-friendly city and Helsinkians love to bike.

Join them and see Helsinki just

Only After You Have Visited Helsinki’s Archipelago Have You Really Been to Helsinki Helsinki is known as the Daughter of the Baltic Sea for a reason. The sea is a central part of Helsinki and its essence. Waterfronts and rocky shores, small islands, fortresses and restaurants.

Enjoy the summer and go out on boating trips.

Book yours now.

ACTIVITIES

THE WAY WE SOUND Sibelius composed Finland and the Finns. His music is encoded into the soul of every Finn. Hear and feel Finland in music.

Enhance your experience of Jean Sibelius’ music at the Helsinki National Hall.

Make your way to the venue at 12:00 and sit back to enjoy a show including the masterworks together with projected images and films of unspoiled Finnish natural landscapes. Walk away with a Sibelius Finland Experience gift CD and a booklet designed and produced for the occasion.

The experience is complete after a Sibelius lunch at Hotel Kämp’s Brasserie, where Sibelius used to be a regular together with the great artists of the national awakening.

5

PHOTOS © BURN OUT CITY • VISIT HELSINKI • VISIT FINLAND • TAPIOLA GOLF • SIBELIUS FINLAND EXPERIENCE • G LIVELAB



the way they see it! There are around ten stops on the Helsinki bike tour. All stops introduce you to a different theme that will give you great insight into Helsinki and its inhabitants.

With a team of Helsinki born and raised guides you will be shown all the favourite places in Helsinki and hear stories only locals know, thoughts about everyday lives and how it feels to live in Finland today compared to other countries.

The tour is taken on legendary Jopo bicycles, made in Finland since 1965. Helmets are provided as well and rain ponchos if needed.



Pick up the baton at the reception at Hotel Kämp, +358 9 576 111, hotelkamp@hotelkamp.com.

Hop on your Jopo at the reception at Hotel Fabian, +358 9 6128 2000, info@hotelfabian.fi.

OH, IT’S TEE TIME Stay at a GLO Hotel and book a tee time at Tapiola Golf two weeks in advance while normally you may only book four days in advance.

Step onto the green!

4

 To book, ask the reception at GLO Hotel Sello, +358 10 3444 200, ­sello@glohotels.fi.

EXPERIENCE IT LIVE G Livelab has quickly taken its place as the most interesting live music club in Helsinki. Genres vary from classical jazz to pop. What they share in common is an exceptionally high international quality. Open your ears!

6

 Who’s on tonight? Ask at the re-

ception at Lilla Roberts, +358 9 689 9880, info@lillaroberts.fi. G Livelab is on Yrjönkatu 3. glivelab.fi

49

STREETWISE: EROTTAJA

Central Railway Station

jö Yr u

i rd Tram 10

Erottajankatu

at nk

va

stop ‘Kolmi­kulma’

How to: Erottaja is best reached by foot or tram number 10. Get off the tram at the Diana Park, officially Kolmikulma, stop.

Up and Coming Erottaja is Helsinki’s new high-end shopping street.

In the Finnish Monopoly Erottaja is the most expensive property, Helsinki’s Boardwalk. Erottaja hasn’t been an important shopping street until recently, with small, exclusive boutiques, also for men, specialised shops, design ­showrooms, restaurants and bars.

Something new opens up all the time.

Shop windows are not the only interesting features on Erottaja. The buildings represent particularly ­graceful and uniform architecture from the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th. The buidings have been fully renovated to their former glory, a telltale sign of the area’s affluence.

Diana Park on Erottaja is where three areas of central Helsinki meet.

The park itself is in the wealthy Kaartinkaupunki, to the southwest lies the fashionable Punavuori and to the northeast is the yet-to-be-discovered Kamppi.

50

No 9, Onar Studios

Erottaja

1 THE BOUQUET RESIDENCE A bicycle repair shop and a café? Been there. A café and a florist’s? Done that.

A florist’s and a fashion boutique? No. Thought as much!

Since August Natalie Suckdorf’s lovely little Wild Things flower shop has been on Erottaja, sharing a space with the multi-brand Urban A boutique.

—A weekly bouquet is my thing! Every Thursday I design a different bouquet and sell it from Thursday to Saturday.

My kind of flowers are wild and unmanicured, says Natalie.

During the week it’s just plants in the shop. The idea is originally from London and Stockholm, but if it works there, it obviously works in Helsinki, as well.

—So far I have always sold out all of my weekly bouquets by Friday.

Urban A. Mon–Fri 11–19, Sat 11–17.

Erottajankatu 1–3.

wildthings.fi & urban-a.fi

9 BAA, BAA, BLACK SHEEP Onar means ‘dream’ in Ancient Greek.

It has also been the dream-come-true design house of Irene Kostas since 2014.

The thought of owning an Alden Bomber in greener grass does not escape me. The ethically sourced shear-

ling is not fur and would be so much fun in the winter. This is typical Onar, a fusion of unlikely matches and, therefore, extremely interesting. Or it could be something else in shearling, a leather bag or knitwear. All items are handmade in Finland, Northern Greece or Spain.

Onar is most definitely one to follow.

Perhaps you have already seen it in Vogue UK. ONAR Studios. Mon–Fri 11–19, Sat

11–17. Erottajankatu 9. onarstudios.com

9 AT HOME WITH SAMUJI It is almost difficult to imagine the time before Samuji, and yet it is only six years since Samuji’s first line of clothing.

House of Samuji on Erottaja is Samuji’s home. Beautiful, peaceful, partly unpretentious, a stylish space where you can bask in the atmosphere. It is so easy to agree on Samuji’s values: a love of necessary things, simple functionality and kindness.

Congratulations New York for the new Samuji boutique in Nolita that opened in November 2016.

Samuji House. Mon–Fri 11–19, Sat

11–17. Erottajankatu 9 B (courtyard). samuji.com

PHOTOS © TIIU KAITALO

le Bu

Esplanadi

No 13, Bier Bier

9 MY, OH, MY, DUDE You might think that My O My The Men is only a clothes shop. Nope, it is possibly the best gift shop in the world if you ask store manager Tuomas Vuorensola. Books, bags, clothes for men, shoes for men and tomboys. Mismo, Gitman Vintage, Barena Venezia, Hansen, S.N.S. Herning, Porter are reasons enough to visit the shop.

—We’re a multi-concept store. We don’t rule out anything from our range of items.

You have to bravely explore new ideas. Yet, ethical values are important to us, especially in textile manufacturing. We know that they are important to our customers, too, Vuorensola continues.

Note to yourself. Do not miss Pauliina Louhiluoto’s first store, My O My Ladies on Aleksanterinkatu 36. The other ultimate shop for style in Helsinki.

No 1, Urban A

vating an old stable into their new home and original items from the time the building was erected were nowhere to be found.

Pia Kuurma is a construction historian and very careful about the materials and construction methods.

—We commission some of the items according to our own models and some we have found after serious detective work.

We do our best to favour old family businesses that have appreciated craftmanship for decades. Domus Classica. Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat

11–16. Erottajankatu 11. domusclassica.fi

No 11, Domus Classica

DO NOT MISS THESE Beer and beer (and charcuteries) at

Bier Bier. Mon–Thu 16–24, Fri–Sat

14–02. Erottajankatu 13. bier-bier.fi The Men. Mon–Fri 11–19, Sat 11–17.

Erottajankatu 9. myomy.fi



11 SOFT HARDWARE STORE

Pia and Kimmo Kuurma’s ironmonger’s is the most wonderful and beautiful in town. Although all of the items are meant for mending old houses they would make great decorations at home.

The wonderful concept goes back over ten years when the Kuurmas were reno-

“Liuska” gourmet pizzas at Skiffer for

lunch. They really knock traditional

pizzas off the plate. Mon–Thu 11–21, Fri 11–22 Sat 13–22 Sun 13–20. Erottajankatu 11. skiffer.fi Dinner & cocktails at Restaurant &

Bar Grotesk. Restaurant: Tue–Thu

17–24 , Fri–Sat 17–24. Bar: Tue–Thu 17–02, Fri–Sat 17–03. Ludviginkatu 10. grotesk.fi Live music at G Livelab. Yrjönkatu 3.

See page 49. glivelab.fi

No 9, The Men 51

DAYTRIP

How Green Is My Valley

PHOTOS © FOTOFABRIKEN / FISKARS • TIIA ÖHMAN / FISKARS

The old workshops and smithies of robust metalworkers are now studios and ateliers for artists, designers and artisans.

A trip to Fiskars is part of the summer routines of Helsinkians. An hour’s drive from the city and it feels like being abroad. The verdancy of the place almost feels a little too lush as the river valley micro-climate nurses rare flora and broad-leaved trees.

It makes you want to burst into French, Italian or German.

People visit Fiskars to romanticise the beautifully preserved iron works milieu, sit down for a coffee and later enjoy a long lunch in one of the beautiful, old buildings.

After lunch there’s time to pop into the small boutiques and designers’ workshops for some Desico candles to keep in store for long Autumn evenings, being charmed

by Karin Widnäs’s ceramics and Nikari’s wooden furniture. Fiskars has, obviously, its own cheese factory, brewery and distillery.

By Finnish standards the village is very old as it was founded by the Dutchman Peter Thorwöste in 1649. Fiskars is situated inside a deep forest by an unharnessed rapids and within reach of excellent waterways; the perfect spot for an ironworks, many of which were built in the village that soon became wealthy. Magnates ruled their realms and took care of their workforce. Many of the 19th century workers’ homes are still homes to the villagers.

When the industrial buildings were abandoned in the 1980s, designers and artists soon moved in. Fiskars was far enough, but also near enough Helsinki.

There is strength in co-operation as the villagers have shown to the world. Today, Fiskars flourishes all-year round.

52

FISKARS How: Fiskars is located just under a hundred k ­ ilometers west of Helsinki.

There is a train and coach connection to Karjaa, and for the rest of the way (c. 14 km) you can take a taxi or bus.

Fiskarsintie 336, Fiskari. fiskarsvillage.fi Ironworks stories and artisans: a guide introduces visitors to the lively history, shops and local artisans of the area. Book through Fiskars Village Info, tel. +358 19 277 7504.

← ← Fiskars is lively all year round. ← Pop into small shops!

53

SOUVENIR: AIRAM THERMOS FLASK

EVER SO HOT! The red Airam thermos flask is a true national treasure. Hot coffee is a necessity even in the middle of the forest, come summer, come winter.

Every Finn has very warm (pun intended) memories of the red Airam thermos flask.

Airam, my love! My most trustworthy associate! My favourite trekking companion! Oh, what an anticipated moment it is on a skiing trek as the thermos flask is dug out of the rucksack. How the scent of coffee lingers around the forest while the cup warms the fingers.

Nothing is as wonderful as coffee accompanied by packed sandwiches after a mushroom-picking trip.

The first Airam thermos flasks were made in Punavuori in 1934. Airam was actually a small lamp manufacturer with the expertise needed for making the flasks. At first the bottles were made by glassblowers and the inner bottle top was made of cork oak.

The secrets to the long-lasting popularity are form and function. The Airam thermos flask hit the nail on the head, with killer technique and looks. The promise, given in 1934, still holds: coffee keeps above 50 Celsius degrees for at least 24 hours. That is something that Finns appreciate.

Hundreds of thousands of Airams are taken, even this year, on boat trips to the sea, the archipelago, parks and forests.

Although, especially in Helsinki, they might summer in fashionable kitchens. The Airam thermos flask, 0.45, 0.7

or 1.0 litres. Material: steel-casing,

PHOTO © TIIU KAITALO.

glass interior. Available in most shops. Price around €12–15.

54

DIRECTORY 16 Olo. See page 39. Tue–Fri 11:30–15 & 18–24, Sat 18–24. Pohjoisesplanadi 5. olo-ravintola.fi

LUNCH 01 Brasserie Kämp. See inside front cover. Mon–Thu 11:30–23, Fri 11:30–24, Sat 12–24, Sun 12–23. Pohjoisesplanadi 29. brasseriekamp.fi 02 Bystro. See page 40. Tue–Fri 11–23:30, Sat 12–23:30, Sun 14–20. Eteläranta 16. bystro.fi 03 Hietalahti Market Hall. See page 41.

Mon–Tue 8–18, Wed–Sat 8–22. Lönnrotinkatu 34. hietalahdenkauppahalli.fi

17 Savoy. See page 39. Mon–Fri 11:30–15 & 18–24, Sat 18–24. Eteläesplanadi 14. ravintolasavoy.fi 18 Vinkkeli. See page 39. Mon 11:30–14, Tue–Fri 11:30–14 & 17–24, Sat 17–24. Pieni Roobertinkatu 8. ravintolavinkkeli.fi

06 Story. See page 41. Mon–Sat 8–18. Vanha Kauppahalli, Eteläranta. ­restaurantstory.fi 07 Toscanini. Award-winning Italian.

Mon–Fri 11–14:30 & 17–24 (from 5th June, 11–24), Sat 12–24, Sun 17–23. Bulevardi 2. toscanini.fi

FAST FOOD 08 E. Eriksson. Hearty traditional Finnish open fish sandwiches. Mon–Sat 8–18. Vanha Kauppahalli, Eteläranta. ­kalatukkueriksson.fi 09 Naughty Brgr. See page 40. Tue–Sat 11–22, Sun 12–19. Lönnrotinkatu 13. naughtybrgr.com

DINNER 10 Emo. Longest tasting menu in town Tue–Fri 11:30–14:30, Mon–Sat 17–24.

Kasarmikatu 44. emo-ravintola.fi 11 Hoku. See page 41. Mon–Thu 11–15 & 17–22, Fri 11–15 & 17–23, Sat 12–16 & 17–23.

Kortteli, Kamppi. hoku.fi

FINE DINING

ILLUSTRATIONS © JARI MIRANDA

12 Ask. Experimental Michelin cuisine.

Fri–Sat 11:30–13, Tue–Sat 18–24. Vironkatu 8. restaurantask.com 13 Chef & Sommelier. Fan favorite.

Tue–Sat from 18. Huvilakatu 28. ­chefetsommelier.fi

30 A21. See page 37. Tue–Wed 17–24, Thu 17–01, Fri–Sat 17–02. Annankatu 21. a21.fi

LATE SUPPER

31 Grotesk. See page 53. Tue–Thu 17–24, Fri–Sat 17–24. Ludviginkatu 10. grotesk.fi

19 BasBas. For a late supper, or an earlier one if you can get a table. Tue–Fri 16–02.

Tehtaankatu 27–29. basbas.fi

32 Liberty or Death. See page 37. Mon– Thu 16–01, Fri–Sat 16–02. Erottajankatu 5. libertyordeath.bar 33 Lilla e. See page 37. Mon–Thu 16–24, Fri–Sat 15–01, Sun15–23. Pieni Roobertinkatu 1–3. lillaroberts.fi

04 Kamome. See page 40. Mon–Fri 11–15 & 17–22, Sat 17–22. Pursimiehenkatu 12. kamome.fi 05 Maxill. See page 40. Mon–Tue 11:30–24, Wed–Fri 11:30–01, Sat 13–01.

Korkeavuorenkatu 4. maxill.fi

COCTAILS

SPECIALTY COFFEE 20 Andante. Coffee with an Asian touch.

Mon–Fri 11–18, Sat–Sun 11–17:30. Fredrikinkatu 20 . andantekukka.fi 21 Fratello Torrefazzione. Busy and lovely. Mon–Fri 7:30–20, Sat 10–18, Sun 12–18.

Yliopistonkatu 6 • Mon–Fri 7:30–21, Sat 10–21, Sun 12–18. Kamppi. latorre.fi 22 Johan & Nyström. Coffee? Tea? Yes, please! Mon–Fri 8–19, Sat 9–18, Sun 10–17.

Kanavaranta 7. johanochnystrom.se/fi 23 Kaffa Roastery. For cafficianados.

Mon–Fri 7:45–18, Sat 10–17. Pursimiehenkatu 29. kaffaroastery.fi 24 Kaffecentralen. Trailblazer for speciality coffee culture. Mon–Fri 8–18, Sat 10–17. Korkeavuorenkatu 25 • Mon–Fri 8–19, Sat 10–17. Fredrikinkatu 59. kaffecentralen.com

34 Trillby & Chadwick. See page 37.

Mon–Thu 16–01, Fri–Sat 16–02. Katariinankatu 3. trillbychadwick.fi

WINE 35 BasBas & Staff wine bar. See page 13. Wed –thu 16–24, Fri 18–02, Sat 14–02.

Tehtaankatu 27–29. basbas.fi 36 Vin Vin. Nice and cosy. Mon–Fri 16–, Sat 14. Kalevankatu 6. vin-vin.fi

CRAFT BEER 37 Bier Bier. See page 53. Mon–Thu 16–24, Fri–Sat 14–02. Erottajankatu 13. bier-bier.fi 38 Brewdog. Hangout for Punavuori hipsters on a par with their Berlin and Brooklyn counterparts. Mon–Tue 14–24, Wed–Thu 14–01, Fri 14–02, Sat 12–02, Sun 15–23. Tarkk’ampujankatu 2. brewdog.com

25 Kuuma. See page 14. Tue–Fri 8–17, Sat 10–16. Albertikatu 6. @kuumahelsinki 26 La Torrefazzione. Chaotic and packed, but who cares with such coffee.

Mon–Fri 7:30–20, Sat 9–19, Sun 10–18:30.

Aleksanterinkatu 50. latorre.fi

TRADITIONAL CAFÉS 27 Ekberg. See page 41. Mon–Fri 7:30–19, Sat 8:30–17, Sun 9–17. Bulevardi 9. cafeekberg.fi 28 Engel. The best place to adore the Empire architecture. Mon–Fri 8–21, Sat 9–21, Sun 10–19. Aleksanterinkatu 26. cafeengel.fi

14 Demo. Fine dining with a Helsinkian attitude. Tue–Sat 16–23. Uudenmaankatu 9–11. restaurantdemo.fi

29 Fazer. See page 41. Mon–Fri 7:30–22, Sat 9–22, Sun 10–18. Kluuvikatu 3. fazer.fi

15 Finnjävel. Progressive Finnish haute cuisine. Mon–Sat 18–23:30. Eteläranta 16. finnjavel.fi

Did we get something wrong?

Please let us know at youarehere@ saariahojarvenpaa.fi. Thank you!

BATHING AND SAUNA 39 Allas Sea Pool. See page 24. Mon–Fri 6:15–23, Sat–Sun 8–23. Katajanokanlaituri 2. allasseapool.fi 40 Hietaniemi Beach. See page 25.

Hiekkarannantie 11.

41 Löyly. See page 24. Mon–Thu 11–22, Fri 11–24, Sat 10–24, Sun 10–21. Sauna: Mon–Wed 16–22, Thu–Sat 13–22, Sun 13–21. Morning sauna: Sat 7:30–10.

Hernesaarenranta 4. loylyhelsinki.fi 42 Pihlajasaari Island. See page 25.

Accessible by ferry from Ursininlaituri, Merisatamanranta 10. pihlajasaari.net 43 The Swimming Stadium. See page 24. 7.5–17.9 Mon–Sat 6:30–20, Sun 9–20.

Hammarskjöldintie 5. hel.fi 55

DIRECTORY

44 Esplanadi–Aleksanterinkatu–Stockmann. From Vuitton to Marimekko.

FASHION 45 Asuna. Everything you need for hipster chic total. Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–15.

Fredrikinkatu 24. asuna.fi 46 Gemmi. Future of furs Mon–Fri 10–20, Sat 10–17, Sun 12–16. Kluuvikatu 4. gemmi.fi 47 Ivana Helsinki. Vanguard of young Finnish fashion. Mon–Fri 11–18, Sat 11–16.

Uudenmaankatu 15. ivanahelsinki.com 48 Marimekko. Still pride and joy of Finns after all these years. Mon–Fri 10–20, Sat 10–18, Sun 12–18. Aleksanterinkatu 50. marimekko.com 49 Minna Parikka. Shoes that are loved from LA to London from Milan to Stockholm. Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–17. Aleksanterinkatu 36. minnaparikka.com 50 My O My. Fantastic hand-picked selection of off-mainstream high end fashion for women. Mon–Fri 10–19, Sat 10–17. Aleksanterinkatu 36. myomy.fi

DESIGN 51 Artek. Cornerstone of Finnish design.

Mon–Fri 10–19, Sat 10–18. Keskuskatu 1. artek.fi 52 Artek 2nd Cycle. Vintage classics

by Artek. Thu–Fri 11–18, Sat 11–15. Pieni Roobertinkatu 4. 2ndcycle.artek.fi 53 Common. Japanese reading of nordic modern. Mon–Fri 11–18, Sat 11–16. Pursimiehenkatu 1. common-helsinki.com

GROCERIES 63 Anton&Anton. The best food shop in town is reason enough to go on a picnic.

Mon–Fri 8–20, Sat 8–18. Museokatu 19 & Mariankatu 18 & Kapteeninkatu 26. antonanton.fi 64 Ruokakauppa Mat. Take away or eat in, Mat is always pitch perfect. Mon 10–16, Tue–Fri 8:30–18, Sat 11–16. Iso Roobertinkatu 20–22. mat.st

HOTELS 78 GLO Hotel Airport. The only hotel at the airport. Helsinki–Vantaa Airport, Terminal 2. glohotels.fi 79 GLO Hotel Art. Art Deco castle. Lönnrotinkatu 29. glohotels.fi 80 GLO Hotel Kluuvi. Urban and exciting.

Kluuvikatu 4. glohotels.fi

MUSEUMS 65 Amos Anderson Art Museum. Mon, Thu & Fri 10–18, Wed 10–20, Sat–Sun 11–17. Yrjönkatu 27. amosanderson.fi 66 Ateneum. See page 33. Tue 10–18 , Wed–Thu 10–20, Fri 10–18, Sat–Sun 10–17. Kaivokatu 2. ateneum.fi 67 Design Museum. Tue 11–20, Wed– Sun 11–18. 1.6–31.8. 11–18. Korkeavuorenkatu 23. designmuseum.fi

81 GLO Hotel Sello. Quality living at the heart of Espoo. Leppävaarankatu 1, Espoo. glohotels.fi 82 Hotel Fabian. You can stay longer.

Fabianinkatu 7. hotelfabian.com 83 Hotel Haven. You are in haven. Unioninkatu 17. hotelhaven.fi 84 Hotel Kämp. The best in Helsinki.

Pohjoisesplanadi 29. hotelkamp.com 85 Klaus K Hotel. First design hotel in Helsinki. Bulevardi 2–4. klauskhotel.com

54 Fasaani. See page 23. Mon–Fri 11–18, Sat 11–16. Summertime: Mon–Fri 11–17, Sat 11–15.. Korkeavuorenkatu 5.

86 Hotel Lilla Roberts. Get your downtown buzz! Pieni Roobertinkatu 1–3.

68 Emma. See page 31. Tue & Thu 11–18, Wed & Fri 11–19, Sat–Sun 11–17. Ahertajan- lillaroberts.fi tie 5, Tapiola, Espoo. emma.museum 87 Hotel St. George. The next chapter in the story of Helsinki hotels. Yrjönkatu 13.

69 HAM. See page 30. Tue–Sun 11–19. stgeorgehelsinki.com Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 8. hamhelsinki.fi

55 Finlayson. See page 13. Mon–Fri 10–18, Sat 10–16. Eteläesplanadi 14. ­finlayson.fi

70 Kiasma. See page 29. Tue 10–17, Wed–Fri 10–20:30, Sat 10–18, Sun 10–17.

Mannerheiminaukio 2. kiasma.fi

56 Gallery Lemmetti. See page 23. By appointment. Yrjönkatu 8. lemmettti.fi

71 Kunsthalle Helsinki. Changing contemporary art exhibitions. Tue & Thu–Fri 11–18, Wed 11–20, Sat–Sun 11–17. Nervanderinkatu 3. taidehalli.fi

57 Lasikammari. See page 23. Tue–Thu 12–17. Liisankatu 9. lasikammari.fi 58 Lokal. Visionary selection of forward leaning contemporary Finnish design.

Tue–Fri 11–18, Sat 11–16, Sun 12–16. Annankatu 9. lokalhelsinki.com 59 Samuji House. See page 52. Mon–Fri 11–19, Sat 11–17. Erottajankatu 9 (courtyard). samuji.com 56

TRANSPORT 88 Taxi Helsinki. +358 100 0700.

GALLERIES 72 Anhava. Intelligent. Tue–Fri 11–17, Sat–Sun 12–16. Fredrikinkatu 43. anhava.com 73 Forsblom. Grand. Tue–Fri 11–18, Sat 11–16, Sun 12–16. Lönnrotinkatu 5. galerieforsblom.com

89 Taxi Kovanen. Taxis and limousines. +358 200 6060.

90 Uber. Get the app.

91 City Bike. Change to yellow! hsl.fi 92 Tram. Very helsinkian way to move around. hsl.fi

ILLUSTRATIONS © JARI MIRANDA

HIGH STREET

60 Zarro. Effortlessly elegant design 74 Heino. Collector. Tue–Fri 11–17, store with an international selection.

Sat–Sun 12–16. Uudenmaankatu 16–20.

Mon–Fri 11–18, Sat 11–15. Fredrikinkatu 37. galleriaheino.fi zarro.fi 75 Helsinki Contemporary. Flashy. Tue– Wed, Fri 11–17, Thu 11–18, Sat–Sun 12–16.

BOOKS Bulevardi 10. helsinkicontemporary.com 61 Akateeminen. The most beautiful 76 Saariaho Järvenpää. Conceptual. bookstore in the world. Mon–Fri 9–21, Wed–Fri 14–18, Sat–Sun 12–16. MerimieSat 9–19, Sun 11–18. Keskuskatu 1 / henkatu 31. saariahojarvenpaa.fi Pohjoisesplanadi 39. akateeminen.com 77 Zettelberg. Pop. See website for 62 Nide. Beautifully curated book and opening hours. Telakkakatu 6. magazine selection. Mon–Fri 10–19, Sat zetterberggallery.com 10–17. Fredrikinkatu 35. nidekauppa.fi

YOU ARE HERE  43

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WELCOME TO SPEND A GOOD DAY AT ALLAS! POOLS AND MUCH MORE IN THE HEART OF HELSINKI.

KATAJANOKANLAITURI 2A, HELSINKI WWW.ALLASSEAPOOL.FI

@ALLASSEAPOOL