A Fashion Special

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Fashion Special




Meet The Team @marcel_schlutt

@naikee_simoneau

@nicphilf

Editor-in-Chief Fashion Editor

Marcel Schlutt

Art Director Art Editor

Naikee Simoneau

Music Editor

Nicola Phillips

Fashion Editors

Nico Sutor

@nico_sutor_

@slaterkarl

mschlutt@kaltblut-magazine.com

nsimoneau@kaltblut-magazine.com

nphillips@kaltblut-magazine.com

nsutor@kaltblut-magazine.com

Karl Slater

kslater@kaltblut-magazine.com

Contributors

Martin Rybak, Laura Knipsael, Luca Di Fazio, Jonni Boi, Scott Salinger, Victor Von Schwarz, Oscar Visitacion, Dennis Mebrouki

On The Cover Tracy R. CIPOLLA photographed by Luca Di Fazio Makeup by Laura Randazzo Styling by Filippo Laterza Top - Moschino Pantaloni - Filippo Laterza Jewels - Thot Gioielli

Full story > p.68

All Copyright at KALTBLUT

www.kaltblut-magazine.com

@kaltblut_magazine

KALTBLUT MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED BY MARCEL SCHLUTT AND NAIKEE SIMONEAU All of KALTBLUT´s contributors are responsible and retain the reproduction rights of their own words and images. Reproductions of any kind are prohibited without the permission of the magazine, editor and each contributor. 4


Maison Eros > p.40

Angelo > p.146

Pien Klein Douwel > p.192

DEBUTTO IN SOCIETÀ 2021 > p.76

Weekend > p.100

Hot Couture > p.214 5


Bustier - RALPH LAUREN RRL Skirt - Thom Browne Others - Vintage

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Photography Kei Kondo @kondokei Stylist Mayu Suzuki @__szkmy__ Hair Stylist Masashi Konno @ma34hair Makeup Haruka Kajita @kajitaharuka Model Tsugumi signed at MAGMA Model Management @magmamodel

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Top (inside) - COMME des GARÇONS Shorts - PRADA Shoes - 3.1 Phillip Lim Knee pad - GUCCI Others - Vintage

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Top - Self-Portrait Bottoms - HELMUT LANG Necklace - Alexander Wang Belt - TOGA Glove - Alexander Wang Others - Vintage

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Necklace - LANVIN Others - Vintage

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Body suits - Off-White Chain belt - VERSACE Sunglasses - MYKITA & BERNHARD WILLHELM Others - Vintage

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Top - BCBG MAXAZRIA Jump suits - Moncler Genius Socks - FACETASM Boots - MARNI Necklace - SWAROVSKI Gloves - EMILIO PUCCI Ski goggle - OAKLEY Belt - IRENE Others - Vintage

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Top - LE CIEL BLEU Tights - Wolford Necklace - EDDIE BORGO Chain necklace - Alexander Wang Belt - GIVENCHY Knee pad - GUCCI Bangle and Ring - CHROME HEART Skirt - Chacott Others - Vintage

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Trousers-Vintage

Photography @sandragalka Model Damian Zalewski @konstantyyn @clarismodelmanagment Stylist Jakub Koper @jakubkoper_ Make up Artem Rybalchenko @trupampam

Damian 14


Trousers - Zara

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Coat - Vintage

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Blouse - Misbhv

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Coat – Bormax (vintage)

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Trousers –Maison Margiela Corset- Vintage

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Blouse - Misbhv

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Trousers - Vintage Nnipple stickers – Handmade

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Waist Coat - Sheplers Jewerly – Hand made

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Trousers - Vintage Top - Vintage

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Dress - National Chinesse dress Trousers - Vintage Boots - Bottega Vendetta

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Blouse - Misbhv Trousers - Kick boxing pants

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Top - Vintage

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Bags & Tube - Oberkampf Earring - Foutone Ring - Nu Atelier

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Photography Ella Bats @ella_bats Styling Johanne Leazarn @johanneleazarn Still Life Set Design Léa Leblanc @trognonlesaumon Hair Taan Doan signed at Atelier 68 @taan_doan Makeup Sarah Wandee Matthijnssens @sarahwandeemakeup Photo’s assistan Alice Tremblot Delacroix @alice.tremblotdelacroix At the Studio Swissmiss @swissmissstudio Models Lucas Mortier @lucas_mortier13 Agnès Tassel signed at Let It Go @atassel at @letitgomgmt Jak signed at Let It Go @jakman_ at @letitgomgmt Paula Luna @sinnlose_kunst Toussaint Veux signed at The Claw Models @touss_1 at @theclawmodels Eléonor Delécluse signed at City Models @eleonordelecluse at @citymodels

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Coat - Visual Society Jewellery - Hélène Zubeldia

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Jacket - Visual Society

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Jewellery Bra - Hélène Zubeldia Earcuff & Ring - Nu Atelier

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Coat - Unrow Necklace - In Gold We Trust Earring - Foutone

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Blazer - Georgiela Studio Necklaces - Foutone / In Gold We Trust Earring - Foutone

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Maison ER0S Text and Interview Martin Rybak @martinmanuelry Designer Léandre Cornette @maisoneros Photographer Marie Meister @hypsoindia Styling Miako Girre @miakogirre Make up Swan Arnaud @_swan.a_ Models Rei bourbier @mereipasdetoncoeur Angelique Kng @angeliqueuwe Chine Benoît @chinebenoit Production Maya bourbier @mayabourbier Assistant production Oscar Ducaruge @oskarlmarx

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Maison Éros is the young Paris based fashion brand of multidisciplinary artist Léandre Cornette who had no formal training in fashion or art which results in clothing that is purely inspired by intuition and self-expression. Léandre uses his brand as a playground to explore his creative ideas and topics without the pressure of the fashion industry: “I use the paint to sublimate the body, distort it, create movement. My brushes are like needles. It is more a pictorial work, I like to work on perception. This is now my touch, my difference and my strength.” How would you describe the essence of Maison Éros? Maison Éros wants to bring flamboyance back into everyday life and interpellate through a subtle eroticism. I have a carnal relationship with the paint, for me playing with texture is very sensual and erotic, but in a devious way. Maison Éros symbolise erotism but in a different manner, with hidden messages behind the pattern. I try to paint what drives the human body, this is the essence of erotism, love, hate ..., what you can’t see. I always first work on canvas before each drop. The starting point of it is one of my paintings. I also get inspiration from the colors and shape of it. Then transform the pattern so it suits the clothes and create movements with the shape of the body. Or like if you were trapped and enchained by it. The new summer Collection « Abstract » ,explores the mysterious and invisible links shared by humans, and personifies the mechanisms of eroticism and how they flirt with scientific knowledge. This pattern embodies the sexual chemistry and freeflowing energy that circulates between two people. It tells the story of the inner chaos that submerges us when desire appears in our bodies. My main art inspirations are Pop art, neo expressionism and expressionnisme abstrait. For the Maison Éros campaigns I want to tell supernatural stories about a group of people and the relationship between them. For example, for the « Tactile Vibrations » shoot in Dieppe, it was about an apocalyptic yet hopeful journey to another planet, and board a carefree vagabond vessel to a phantasmagorical land, where eroticism reigns free. The « ABSTRACT » shoot is about a group of lost strangers wandering through the countryside. A sudden overdose of serotonin, slowly taking control of their bodies. They 43


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have lost control. They are free. It’s a soulattack, an explosion of sensuality, gliding through their veins. How important is the aspect of sustainability and up-cycling for you and your creations? There are so many beautiful clothes out there, with stunning fabric, it is so interesting and challenging to work with. I want to erect those upcycled clothes as work of Art, that is why the sourcing of the piece is a very important and a long process to me. I am uncompromising, the fabric and the cut has to be perfect so the texture of the paint has a beautiful rendering. The concept of Maison Éros is that all the pieces are unique, rare and approach like wearable canvas. That is why it is important for me that the garments had a previous life, tells a story. It’s part of its beauty. How did you manage to turn the lack in formal fashion training into your strength and how important is it for you to let your intuition guide you instead of current trends or learned skills? As I have no formal fashion training, I use the paint to sublimate the body, distort it, create movement. My brushes are like needles. It is more a pictorial work, I like to work on perception. This is now my touch, my difference and my strength. My work is very instinctive, the clothes are more like a canvas to me. I get most of my inspirations from Art. That is why I have this freedom in my creations, I do not want to follow trends. I want to make people look flamboyant and elegant at the same time. So you get noticed when you wear Maison Éros pièces, look different. My pieces call out but stay elegant. The challenge is that the paint do not prevails on the person who wears it. It has to sublimated the person. What was the biggest challenge for you as a creative person during the current health work in a negative but also positive way? I had to keep the inspiration ! What stimulates my creativity is meeting new people, sharing moments of life, it’s sometimes in the simple interaction of everyday life that gives us ideas. When you can see the human energy around you. Being isolated and socially restricted makes you drawn to your memories and sometimes you lose some of your optimism and the energy to move forward. On the other hand you have more time to create and really think about what you want 46


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to say in your creations. It changed my perception of human relations and how important and fragil it can be. It is the fact of having been away from people that made me want to paint the invisible links that bind us. What drives us, why we feel such emotions and how to personify them. What is something you would change in the fashion industry if you could? I think that the fashion industry changed in many very positive ways on the human side, more tolerance and acceptance about diversity, sexuality...So I am really happy about it and so everyone can be represented. The image of fashion is not a cliché of perfection anymore, which is great. If I had to change something it would be the seasons and the frantic pace of the collections. I like to work by drop because you are more free to propose the kind of clothes you want at the moment. And do not depend on weather and trends. Anything else you want to add? I really want to celebrate the body and its beauty in my work. Spread a colorful and optimistic message in my creations. And that everyone can also question themselves on the human itself, and the foundation of its emotions and relationship with others. Maison Éros is a total crossover between Art and Fashion, there is a message, though behind the brushes. It is not only aesthetics, it is also poetry and philosophy.

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GENDERLESS INNOVATION Creative Direction, Production, Styling, Retouching VyraProductions @vyraproductions Photography, Videography Fabiana Piscitelli Gil @fa.gil Photography Albur @exiliumz 1st Model Amphibian @__amphibian 2nd Model Metaraph @metaraph_ Bodypaint, Makeup Adriatica BodyArt @adriaticamakeup SFX Makeup Caterina Veronesi @caterina_veronesi_ Production Assistance Ben Ruggles @itsbenruggles Fashion Designs by Michelle Bohnes @michellebohnes Fashion Designs, Accessory Designs by Iamflorianschulze @iamflorianschulze Fashion Designs by Saphire Gaskas @saphire_gaskas_designs Jewellery Designs by Metaxi by Mekanics @metaxibymekanics Jewellery Designs by Seelo by Shimrit @seelo.studio Jewellery Designs by Inaurem @inaurem__ Headpiece Designs Bubbles And Frown @bubblesandfrown Accessory Designs, Fashion Designs Cyberesque @noraly_cyberesque 56


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FASHION

VICTIM Photographer Luca Di Fazio @lucadifazio_ Model Tracy R. CIPOLLA @tracyladivah Makeup Laura Randazzo @laurarandazzo.mua Styling Filippo Laterza @filippolaterzamaison Prop (big lipstick) @laurarandazzo.mua & @lucadifazio_

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Top - Filippo LaTerza Short - Diesel Jewels - Thot Gioielli

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Nails - Monica Fusillo Jewels - Thot Gioielli

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Sunglasses - Gucci Jewels - Thot Gioielli

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Top - Milly Glamour Skirt - Roberto Cavalli Boots - Diesel Sunglasses - Gucci Jewels - Thot Gioielli

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Top - Filippo La terza Shorts - Philipp Plein Boots - Dolce e Gabbana Jewels - Thot Gioielli

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Top - Moschino Pantaloni - Filippo Laterza Jewels - Thot Gioielli

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DEBUTTO IN SOCIETÀ 2021 ATTO I DECISIONI Art Direction & Styling Veronica Belli @veronicabellistylist Photography Francesca Terenziani @francesca_terenziani Model Anndi Palaj signed at Independent Model Management @anndipalaj @independent_mgmt Hair & Makeup Federica Piovani @federicapiovanimakeupartist Clara Izzo @make.and.up_clara Photography Assistant Matteo Consolini @matteofoto74 Special thanks Villa d’Este

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Necklace - Creazioni Salesi Skirt - Ilenia Sapia

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Total look - Annalisa Saligari

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Total look - Elisa Leclé

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Total look - Annalisa Saligari

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Total look - Elisa Leclé

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Necklace - Creazioni Salesi Skirt - Ilenia Sapia

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Total Look - Melissa Riva

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Total look - Elisa Leclé

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Shirt - Rosa Ferrara Dress - Diletta Gallo

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Jessica Vall All eyes on

Photography Dennis Mebrouki @studiomebrouki Model Jessica Vall signed at Spin Model Management @jessica.vl Hair & Make Up Pamela Dansoh @pamela_hmua Styled André Rosenberg @monsieurmandre

Dress – Mother of Pearl Scarf – Max Mara

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Tights – Falke Corset Jacket – Vivienne Westwood Blouse – Mother of Pearl

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Top - Tíscar Espadas Trousers - Tíscar Espadas Cutout boots - Arthur Michard

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Bucket Hat – Red V Bodysuit – Alaia Tights – Falke Bow Tie - Tom Ford Earrings – MM6 Maison Margiela Gloves – Miu Miu Shoes – Simone Rocha


Cropped Jacket – Vivienne Westwood Tights – Falke Pants – Vivienne Westwood Boots – Eytys

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Shirt – Etro Pants – M Missoni Earrings – Vivienne Westwood Bow Tie – Etro

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Suit – Viktor & Rolf Shoes – Alexander Wang Earrings – Maria Black

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Top – Hofmann Copenhagen Pants – Stella McCartey Shoes – Gucci Earrings – Elisabetta Franchi Gloves – Roeckl

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Blouse – Custommade Skirt – MM6 Maison Margiela Shoes – MM6 Maison Margiela Earrings – Vivienne Westwood

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Blouse – Vivetta Skirt – Karl Lagerfeld Bucket Hat – Karl Lagerfeld

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WEEK END

Photography & Style at Magenta Represents @gosiablasiak_ @magentareps Model Ashley Rodríguez signed at Le Troch @ ashleyrg_07 @le_troch Make up Varvara Dediukhina at Magenta Represents @varvarad @magentareps Production Magenta Represents @magentareps Photo assistant Ruth Pizá @bleking__ Postproduction Oleg Shkurupii @oleg_retouch Special thanks Nicholas Lapité @nlapite

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Swimwear - allsisters Shoes - Mirella Playa Earrings - Poetes Jewelry

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Bag - Disco rojo Shoes - Adolfo Dominguez Blouse - Loidi Short - Colmillo de Morsa Earrings - Klimbin

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Dress - Studio Fantastic Shoes - Mim Sunglasses - Guess vintage

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Swimwear - allSisters Shoes - Mirella Playa Earrings - Poetes Jewelry

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Earrings - Klimbin Full look - Colmillo de Morsa Shoes - Stylist own

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Earrings - Klimbin Full look - Colmillo de Morsa Shoes - Stylist own

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Swimwear - allSisters Bag - Atelier Batac Earrings- Klimbin Shoes - Stylists own

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Coat - Stylist own Earrings - Klimbin

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Swimwear - allSisters Bag - Atelier Batac Earrings- Klimbin Shoes - Stylists own

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PEEK-A-

Photography Frederike Wetzels at Cosmopola @frederikewetzels @cosmopola_berlin Styling Sabine Berlipp at Blossom Management @sabine_berlipp @blossommanagement.gmbh Hair & Make Up Tina Tai Schmoll at Nina Klein Agency @taii_schmoll @ninakleinagency Models Kerim & Anika signed at AM Modelmanagement @ammodelmanagement

Fashion © Frederike Wetzels Pants - Form of Interest Sleeves - MSGM Collar - Stylist‘s own

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BOO

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01 Fashion © Frederike Wetzels Her Top - Franziska Michael Sleeves - MSGM Pants - Otto D’Ame Him Pants - Form of Interest Sleeves - MSGM Collar - Stylist‘s own

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Shirt - Form of Interest Pants & Belt - Polyestershock

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Dress - Marcel Ostertag Body - Champion Jeans - Polyestershock

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Jacket - Form of Interest Pants - Isabel Vollrath

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Dress - Marcel Ostertag Body - Champion

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Pants - Otto D’Ame Collar - Stylist‘s own

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Complete Look - Form of Interest

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Complete Look - Laurin Schuler

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Jacket - Form of Interest Pants - Isabel Vollrath

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CABIN

FEVER

Photography Milos Mlynarik @milosmlynarik Styled Jess Rolfe @jessicarolfe1 Hair Anthony Nader using Hair Rituel by Sisley @anthony_nader @hairrituelbysisley @dlm_au Makeup Tracy Terashima @tracyterashima Models Uma and Jude signed at Priscillas models @uma.manasseh @jude.cooper @priscillasmodels

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Dress - Dion lee Top & Pants - Dion

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Dress - Dion lee Pants - Scotch & Soda

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Jumper - One Teaspoon Bottoms - Matteau briefs

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Jumper - Scotch & Soda Jeans - Model’s own

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Jacket & pants - Zara

Top & Pants - Double rainbouu Knit Top - Zara Knit Shorts - The upside Socks & Shoes - Zara

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Jumper - The upside

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Dion lee Full look - Dion lee

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Top - Claudie Pierlot Pants - One teaspoon

Pants - Scotch & Soda

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Top & Pants - Sandro

Top - Matteau Pants - Isabel marant

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Jumper - Models’ own Pants - Scotch & Soda

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Full Look - The Upside

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Photographer Prisca Tozzi @priscatozzi_studio Stylist Courtney Hharrison @courtneyeharrison Model Ace Dizin @acadiniz Kult Models Hair & make-up Alan Kitrell @hairbykitrell

Angelo 146


Top - Acne Trousers - Weekday Necklace & earrings - & Other Stories Other Necklace - Ivys Attic Jewellery Shoes - Adidas

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Hat - Weekday Top - Acne Shorts - Asos Necklace - & Other Stories Necklaces - Ivys Attic Jewellery Earrings - Models Own Socks - Stylists Own Shoes - ASICS

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Hat - Reclaimed Vintage Top - Ganni Trousers - Jaded Necklace - & Other Stories Necklaces - Ivy’s Attic Jewellery Earrings - Models Own Shoes - Converse

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Ruffled Dress - Alexander McQueen

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The Brontë sisters

Photography Scott Salinger @scottsalingerphpto Art Oscar Visitacion @oscarvisitacion Styling Victor Von Schwarz @victorvonschwarz Models Amaya and Ynae signed at Fithmodels @fithmodels @amayadeyavorsky @ynaepastalle Hair and Makeup Allison Caranton @laurie_allison_caranton Thanks Teresa @tere_delafalaise 159


Ruffled Dress - Alexander McQueen

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White Shirt and Blue Scarf - Victor Von Schwarz Dress - Sophie

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Coats - Georgiela Studio Skirt - Victor Von Schwarz Shoes - Gucci

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Coats - Georgiela Studio Skirt - Victor Von Schwarz Shoes - Gucci

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Coat - Victor Von Schwarz Dress - Joplin Atelier

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Coat & Gloves - Victor Von Schwarz Tights - Woolford

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Tulle Dresses - Joplin Atelier Shoes - Gucci

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Tulle Dresses - Joplin Atelier Shoes - Gucci

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Tulle Dresses - Joplin Atelier Shoes - Gucci

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Drese - Victor Von Schwarz Socks - Calcedonia Shoes - Gucci

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Dreses - Victor Von Schwarz Socks - Calcedonia Shoes - Gucci

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Chelsea Boy

Creative direction, Styling & Designs Jonni Boi @jonni_boi_ Photography Laura Knipsael @lauraknipsael Digital editing Maxi Galgenmaier @maxi_milane Model, Makeup Chelsea Boy @xochelseaboy 174


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Hair Sébastiaan Van Der Ham @sebvdham

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Jewellery Bitsch Kitsch @bitsch_kitsch_london

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Photography Kat Kowalczyk @kat_production Makeup & Hair Christophe Lambenne @christophe_lambenne Styling Brittany Lovoi @britt_lo Models Goldie C. signed at Crawford Models @go_goldie Da-Voncia signed at Crawford Models @da_voncia

Delicate Dress - Issey Miyake

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Vest and Pants - Issey Miyake

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Him Shirt - Dries Van Noten Her Bodysuit - Helmut Lang Skirt - Dries Van Noten Briefs - Calvin Klein Sandals - Proenza Schouler

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Top - Helmut Lang Pants - Fumito Ganryu

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Bodysuit - Helmut Lang Skirt - Dries Van Noten Briefs - Calvin Klein Sandals - Proenza Schouler

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Him Shirt - Our Legacy Pants - Derek Lam Her Top - Helmut Lang Pants - Fumito Ganryu

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Dress - Issey Miyake

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Dress - Jonathan Simkhai Bra & Briefs - Calvin Klein

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Shirt - Aspesi Shorts - Bianca Saunders

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Top & Shorts - Jacquemus

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Dress - Jonathan Simkhai Bra & Briefs - Calvin Klein

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One to watch Pien Klein Douwel Designer Pien Klein Douwel @Pienkdo @Pienkleindouwel Photography Amy Opstal @Amyopstal & Daan Kamerman @Daankamerman Models Elly Doan @elly__doan Nina Kunst Mon Klein Douwel @monkleindouwel Jermaine Harper @jermaineharper Pim Klein Douwel Bodvar Hole @budvarklikka Tell me a little bit about your journey that led to you releasing your graduation work? People in closed communities always intrigued me. Their seclusion from the dominant culture or society allows them to construct their own realities. I investigate the sustainability, frugality and simple living that is present within these communities. For my last collection, I focused on the process of Rumspringa. This is a period time in which the Amish youth, around 16 years old, are allowed to explore the world outside their community and before they become official members of the church. Exploring sexuality and identity within a community is something that always comes back in my work. From my research, I picked some of the values that the Amish live by and my 1:4 concept was born. All garments are folded away instead of cutaway, that way you can re-make them in 6-8 timeless different designs. Additionally, the whole collection is zero-waste patterning.

fashion designer? For me, it happened naturally. Without realising, I have always been interested in fashion. I would want to go to fashion expositions and festivals. This naturally growing curiosity intrigued me the most to study fashion design. I didn’t know from day one that I wanted to become a fashion designer, so it’s not a very romantic story. I think for a lot of people, it grows with time. How would you describe the Pien Klein Douwel style? A mix between harsh, plain volumes and romantic drapery. Strict but poetic. 193


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Are there any fashion icons who inspire your design? Definitely Ann Demeulemeester. But I do like to focus on other disciplines and daily things to draw my inspiration from. What would you say makes Pien Klein Douwel stand out against other brands? I’d like to focus on the educational and interactive aspects of my work. For me, this is important and my way to add something to the fashion industry.

your work? Mostly closed communities. I have always had a fascination for them. What advice would you give to people who want to experiment more with the clothes they wear? Search for someone who wants to help you to re-make, repair or reconstruct your work. Work together – we do need each other to get things to a higher level. What are your favourite pieces from your graduation collection? The green apron with the draped sleeves and burnout technique. Next to that one, I love the long white shirt with all waste material folded into the front piece. How would you describe the local fashion scene/industry in the Netherlands? In my eyes, there are two sides; people who are fighting for more sustainability and long-lasting items. But also a few designers who are very much into this haute couture style, which is not my thing. But to be honest, I like Belgium way better when we talk about interesting fashion. What does being an independent designer mean to you? Working on adding something to this world, something with value. Not in an expensive way, but a sustainable one. We already have so many brands, collections and designers, you should bring something extra to the table when it comes to sustainability. If you can do that and make people interact with your view, I think you’re an independent designer. If Pien Klein Douwel was ice cream, Good question! I think it would meet chocolate with chilli flakes. Something people generally like but with an extra spice to it! 199


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THE

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TRANSFORMATION

Photography Brian Ojeda @brian__ojeda Styling Angelo Castro @Angelocastror Make up Daniela and Elina @avant_makeup Model Acaoã Theophilo De Castro @acaoatcastro

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HOT COUTURE Photography Igor Drozdowski @igordrozdowski Model signed at Neva Models @aurophobia @nevamodels Makeup Paulina Kurowiak @paulina_kurowiak All fashion @jasiekx

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Rodeo Photography Theo DLT @theodlt Model Aleks Lecomte @aleks_lecomte Styling Jarhon Matt @jarhonmatt Make-up Myriam Berkoun @mymy_xoo Brands Goodbye Horses - Jarhon Matt, Levi’s, Saint Laurent Paris, Gudule, Redskins

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