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PARA-Situation [X, Mumbai]

THE [LOVING] METROPOLITAN LANDSCAPE

Architecture, Landscape and The Ecosophic Object Breaking / Tailoring Urbanism Archive [01]

Trousers Reisgtration of Dirt Chi Ka, Gareth John


The trousers are media (ruler) to record the dirt, dust and pollutant accumulation from Darukhana. It allows the conversation of in-site experience between body scale and building scale. It is also a cue to trace back the knowledge of the habitation on site since the accumulation is the by product of a series of events or engagement of different program.

Content Video scene Pattern Glossary Pattern diagram Color code

In this archive, each color represented the ‘trace’ of one or multiple events in Darukhana created, intentionally or unintentionally, normally by more than one program. In the other sense, it is the extremity of a series of action. And all of these actions, are recoded through video, text and photograph in an archieve formate. So, the color, at the same time, is the codex of these actions. The ‘traces’ here are made in one day, so the conditions of the trousors discribing in the site is a temporary senese , of a specific time, or in a specific time longitude. And because insufficient time was provided for the accumulating process, large part of the trousers is remained white, or yellowish white ( dust are slightly accumulated). It gives a potential of the design program by looking at the relationship between the ‘white’ and the color ( or different gradient of that color). 06/03/2014 16:27


The port trust bunder, 1870 The port of bombay


The port trust bunder, 2014 Google map


Intensity rulers, Dirt collection agency Local garment/fabric (cotton)


Body (scale) as a ruler


De-stitching the trousers


Front left trouser pattern


CENTRE FRONT WAIST

SEAM ALLOWANCE

SEAMS

WAIST LINE

FOLDS

RE FRONT RISE

SEAMS

SE AM ALL OWA NCE

CENT

GRAIN LINE

HIP LINE

CROTCH LINE

SEAM ALLOWANCE

SE

NCE LOWA AM A L

SIDE SEAM

LEG INSIDE

SEAM

FRONT CROTCH POINT

SEAMS FOLDS

SEAM ALLOWANCE

HEMLINE

FRONT TROUSER MASTER BLOCK (LEFT) SCALE 1:1 ( in A0 )

Front left trouser pattern


Front right trouser pattern


WAIST LINE

CENTRE FRONT WAIST

SEAM ALLOWANCE

SEAMS FOLDS SEAMS

GRAIN LINE

T RISE FRON TRE CEN

LLOWANWCE SEAM A

HIP LINE

CROTCH LINE

SEAM ALLOWANCE

SEAM AL LOWANC E

INSIDE LEG

SIDE SEAM

SEAM

FRONT CROTCH POINT

SEAMS FOLDS

HEMLINE

SEAM ALLOWANCE

Front right trouser pattern


Back right trouser pattern


CENTRE BACK WAIST

SEAM ALLOWANCE

SEAMS

WAIST LINE

FOLDS

HIP LINE

GRAIN LINE

SE AM ALL OWA NCE

CENT

RE BACK RISE

SEAMS

CROTCH LINE

SEAM ALLOWANCE

A ALLOW SEAM

NCE

SIDE SEAM

EAM LEG S INSIDE

BACK CROTCH POINT

SEAMS FOLDS

SEAM ALLOWANCE

HEMLINE

Back right trouser pattern

BACK TROUSER MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1


Back left trouser pattern


WAIST LINE

CENTRE BACK WAIST

SEAM ALLOWANCE

SEAMS FOLDS

TRE BACK RISE CEN

SEAM ALLOWANCE

SEAMS

GRAIN LINE

HIP LINE

CROTCH LINE

SEAM ALLOWANCE

SEAM ALLOW ANCE

INSIDE LEG

SIDE SEAM

SEAM

BACK CROTCH POINT

SEAMS FOLDS

HEMLINE

SEAM ALLOWANCE

Back left trouser pattern

BACK TROUSER MASTER BLOCK (LEFT) SCALE 1:1 ( in A0 )


Right pocket facing and bag pattern


FACING MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

POCKET MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

FACING MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

POCKET MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

Right pocket facing and bag pattern


Left pocket facing and bag pattern


FACING MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

POCKET MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

Left pocket facing and bag pattern


Zip, facing and extension pattern


FACING MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

ZIP SCALE 1:1

POCKET MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

EXTENSION MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

FACING MASTER BLOCK SCALE 1:1

Zip, facing and extension pattern


TROUSERS AS A CITY Reason of defining the trouser pattern element - understand the metropolitan landscape ( scale ) of mumbai in terms trousers wore by humna ( scale ) body - a trousers(city) is constructed to fulfill 2 humans’ needs : (1) cover our body (fortune; wealth) (2) express our social status (systems) Trousers/City (A)Reasons for need (1) : coping with the external environment in order to keep ourself alive. (i) warm ( seperation from dangerous ) (ii) capable to work (mobility) in extreme weather condition (B)Reasons for need (2) : - differentiate one and others in a network, as same as differentiate one’s network among the networks (i) to share ( code, favour, guilty ) (ii) to exile, to repel people/units not belong to the network (iii) to exile or to repel oneself from a network - so each components have 2 fucntions: (a) responds to our body (b) respont to the adjacent component to form a system ( or in a system ) - defining the trousers components would lead us to a new definition of city components and her way of formation.


DEFINITION (TERMINALOGY) OF TROUSERS PATTERN COMPONENTS A. Grain lines ( axis of urban frabic ) (pre-determined topography) ( seven island ) 1.Using grain lines in wrong way would cause fitting problem 2. Angle for interesting visual effect 3. warp thread runs up and down while the weft thread runs right to left 4.warp thread is stronger of the two and is the least likely to stretch out of shape. 5.Cheap t-shirts because the fabric weave does not hold a solid grid pattern, 6.off grain 7. want the strongest thread to run around the body ? The selvedge is the band of more tightly woven fabric that runs up either side of the fabric meterage. 8. Bias cut : 45 degree angle, -fabric much more unstable. -allow for less darts. 9. strange angle can cause puckering. ( pre-determined orientation of the city fabric would affect the strengtheness of the trousers) B. Waist lines ( margin of the city ) (anchor point to the body) ( government ) (political power) ( economical power) ( religion ) [ highly restricted dimension] 1. to accentuate different features. 2. is important as a boundary at which shaping darts can be ended. C. Hipline ( limit of terrain? ) [ highly restricted dimension] 1. the line formed by measuring the hip at its greatest part D. Crotch lines ( dimension and capacity of habitation and movement ) [ semi-restricted dimension] 1.Crotch depth ( vertical ) -too short, your pants will pull and bind between the legs. ( overcrowded ) -too long, the pants will hang loosely there. ( excessive space, abondoned land ) 2.Crotch Circumference ( horizontal to vertical )

E. Hemline ( culture context / people’s interest / spectecle?) ( informal settlement ) [ non-restricted dimension] 1. line formed by the lower edge of a garment ( measured from the ground ) 2. hemline is most variable style line in fashion

F. Seam allowance ( buffer zone / connection of 2 terrain /share tension ) 1. Seams : two pieces of fabric are laid on top of each other and a needle and thread goes back and forth along a line, joining the two together 2.sew right on the edge of the cut fabric, or else it will fray.as This is seam allowance. 3.If a seam allowance is too large: cumbersome to manage and hard to ease together. 4.Larger seam allowances can be trimmed 5.Seams which need to curve around areas of the body such normally smaller, about 6mm. 6. Seams which require a special finish are normally larger (1.2 - 1.5cm). 7. More seam allowance where you have a closure such as a button placket or a zip.


dirt registration of event


Temporary Intensities Mearsurement (1 day in Darukhana) 1 Mudwater Location : Darukhana, Source: Water from people washing their clothes, brushing their teeth in the morning/evening ( before /after work) in front of the shop/factory, on the street. Ingradient factory, ship yard, wasted material C79 M48 Y0 K0

2 CHAI Location : Teashop on the street Darukhana, 18.972538, 72.851525 Source: One shot of sugar free chai C0 M44 Y39 K0

3 Paint and Chemical Mix Location : Ship Breaking Yard, Darukhana, Byculla 18.972538, 72.851525 Source : Welding C26 M100 Y98 K25

4 General dust accumulation Location : Darukhana, Source: Travic, Industry, Ammenity C26 M100 Y98 K25

5 General dust accumulation by sweating Location : Darukhana, Source: Travic, Industry, Ammenity C11 M6 Y23 K0

The trousers are media (ruler) to record the dirt, dust and pollution accumulation in Darukhana. It unvieled the conversation between the experience of recorded journey in body scale and the industrial habitation in building scale fromthe site since the accumulation is actually the result ( or side effect) from a series of events or engagement of different program. In the drawing, each color represented the ‘trace’ of one or multiple events in Darukhana created intentionally or unintentionally normally by more than one program. In the other sense, it is the extremity of a series of action. And all of these actions, are recoded through video, text and photograph in an archieve formate. So, the color, at the same time, is the codex of these actions. The ‘traces’ here are made in one day, so the conditions of the trousors discribing the site in a temporary snese , of a specific time, or a specific time longitude. And because insufficient time was provided for the accumulating process, large part of the trousers is remained white, or yellowish white ( dust are slightly accumulated). It gives a potential of the design program by looking at the relationship between the ‘white’ and the color ( or different gradient of that color). 06/03/2014 16:27

color code of the event/program


RED-BREAKING Chemical (from the process of welding) from the ship breaking yard


YELLOW-GENERAL ACCUMULATION Dust, metal and rust mixtures captured on the trousers by sweat


ORANGE-SOCIAL / CULTURE Chai / Tea


BLUE - HYBRID Mudwater; mixture of dust, dirt and water from habitation


Archive trousers