CLF June 23rd by KAB1977

EVERY WEEK

JUNE 23, 2021

Make the most of a British summer

ISSUE: 25

PRINTED IN THE UK

£4.25

COUNTRY LIFE INTERNATIONAL JUNE 23, 2021

‘My exciting, amazing life’ by Lady Glenconner Divining inspiration: the art of finding water Chiggypigs and the bird that began the RSPB

CLI310.cover.indd 1

17/06/2021 15:55

1 2

BLACKD OWN, SURREY

remarkable property on the side of Blackdown in The South Downs, with stunning southerly views. Blackdown Ridge offers incredibly versatile accommodation with a main four bedroom house, beautifully converted mill barn and separate annexe. Blackdown Ridge also has its own award-winning vineyard, with an on-site winery. 4 - 8 B E D R O O M S | 8 B AT H R O O M S | 3 - 6 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S A N N E X E | M I L L B A R N | G A R A G I N G | C A R P O R T | V I N E YA R D | W I N E R Y | A P P R O X I M AT E LY 3 1 .7 6 A C R E S | E P C E H A S L E M E R E 4 . 4 M I L E S | M I D H U R S T 6 . 2 M I L E S | P E T W O R T H 7. 5 M I L E S

Guide price available upon request Knight Frank London & Haslemere oliver.rodbourne@knightfrank.com 020 4502 7108 russell.grieve@knightfrank.com 01428 786268 Ref: HSM140117

knightfrank.co.uk

SWANBOURNE, BUCKINGHAMSHIRE Guide Price: £1,800,000 6 Bedrooms

7 Reception Rooms

5 Bathrooms

C EPC

A contemporary barn conversion with an indoor swimming pool, and outbuildings including a cinema room, gym, home office and stables; set in approximately 1.33 acres of grounds. The property was originally dairy barns, converted to residential use in the 1980s. High specification features include oak flooring and a bespoke kitchen. An electric gated drive leads to the house, stable yard and parking for at least four cars. The rear garden has a paved terrace and a raised decked area, and bi-fold doors from the pool room lead to a further terrace. The property is in the hamlet of Nearton End, within walking distance of local amenities including Swanbourne House School.

Buckingham Office | Luke Jackson | 01280 821100 London Office | Bob Bickersteth | 0207 839 0888

14 offices covering 8 counties and Central London

michaelgraham.co.uk

michaelgraham_living

1 2

DIPPENHALL , SURREY

idgeway House is an immaculately presented period property with beautifully proportioned interiors which allow for entertaining on a grand scale. Located in a rural setting with far-reaching views, the house occupies a secluded position at the end of a long gravel drive lined with lime trees. 6 - 7 B E D R O O M S | 6 B AT H R O O M S | 7- 8 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S | 2 C O T TA G E S | K I T C H E N G A R D E N S W I M M I N G P O O L | T E N N I S C O U R T | PA R K L A N D | PA D D O C K | A P P R O X I M AT E LY 1 5 . 3 6 A C R E S | E P C F FA R N H A M 1 M I L E ( L O N D O N WAT E R L O O F R O M 5 3 M I N U T E S ) | G U I L D F O R D 1 0 M I L E S | L O N D O N 3 8 M I L E S

Guide price £3,500,000 Knight Frank London & Basingstoke edward.cunningham@knightfrank.com 020 4502 7121 mark.potter@knightfrank.com 01256 806421 Ref: CHO150113

knightfrank.co.uk

Stunning Manor House Harpenden, Hertfordshire Harpenden Station: 2.8 miles, St Albans: 8 miles Stunning period country house in prime location. 6 reception rooms, 7 bedrooms (2 en suite), 3 further bathrooms, snooker room, tennis court, 12 x 6m swimming pool, pool house with sauna, outbuildings including historic donkey wheel, landscaped gardens, walled garden and paddock. About 5.32 acres | Guide £4.95 million Nick Ingle Savills Harpenden 01582 801 713 ningle@savills.com

Hugh Maconochie Savills London Country Department 020 3944 1984 hmaconochie@savills.com

savills

savills.co.uk

Outstanding Country House Lower Slackstead, Hampshire Romsey: 4 miles, Winchester Station: 7.5 miles Magnificent Georgian style house completed to the highest specification in a beautiful setting. 5 reception rooms, 5-6 bedrooms (4 en suite), 1 further bathroom, orangery, detached office/ annexe, triple garage, gardens, parkland, woodland and pond. EPC = C About 9 acres | Guide £6.75 million Camilla Elwell Savills London Country Department 020 3504 7782 camilla.elwell @savills.com

Steven Moore Savills Winchester 01962 656 536 smoore@savills.com

savills

savills.co.uk

Surrey, Godalming

Over 50 Offices across England and Scotland, including prime Central London.

Daniel Burstow

Tom Shuttleworth

JSA:

Guildford Oﬃce 01483 610 270

Country Department 07919 128 193

House Partnership 01483 266 700

daniel.burstow@struttandparker.com

thomas.shuttleworth@struttandparker.com

dcarter@housepartnership.co.uk

/struttandparker

@struttandparker

struttandparker.com

1 2

4 5 WINDERMERE , CUMBRIA

rare opportunity to acquire possibly the finest house on Lake Windermere. The property offers complete privacy, dramatic 180 degree views and direct lake frontage. It has been owned for 25 years and has undergone a total rebuild. 5 B E D R O O M S | 5 B AT H R O O M S | 5 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S | I N D O O R P O O L | S A U N A S T E A M R O O M | T R I P L E G A R A G E | T E N N I S C O U R T | E X T E N S I V E L AW N S R O C K E R Y | L A K E F R O N TA G E | A P P R O X I M AT E LY 3 A C R E S

W I N D E R M E R E 1 M I L E | KE N DA L L 1 0 M I L E S | P E N RI T H 2 7 M I L E S LANCASTER 30 MILES

Guide price available upon request Knight Frank London & Melrose jamie.robson@knightfrank.com 020 4502 7203 james.denne@knightfrank.com 01896 888502 Ref: EDN012198699

knightfrank.co.uk

Experience the best of the South West With exchanges in the South West region up 73.9% in May versus the five-year average*, this rural area of the UK's popularity is soaring. Encompassing countryside, coast and a number of fantastic cities, the South West has it all. Here is a selection of properties currently on the market.

Lyme Regis, Dorset A beautifully presented 1930's house in an elevated position with wonderful views over Lyme Bay. 6 B E D R O O M S | 5 B AT H R O O M S | 4 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S | A P P R O X I M AT E LY 0 . 8 A C R E S | E P C E

Guide price £1,950,000

simon.barker@knightfrank.com 01935 805324

Upton, Hampshire A delightful listed period farmhouse with attached one or two bedroom cottage in the heart of the Bourne Valley. 4 B E D R O O M S | 2 B AT H R O O M S | 3 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S | 0 . 6 9 A C R E S

Offers in excess of £1,250,000

rob.wightman@knightfrank.com 01488 758437

Broad Hinton, Wiltshire An equestrian dream with a number of properties and equestrian yards.

Guide price £1,750,000

nick.loweth@knightfrank.com 01488 758437 Source: Knight Frank data

Minehead, Somerset An exquisite Period House, Grade II listed, historic Medieval village of Dunster within Exmoor National Park.

5 B E D R O O M S | 4 B AT H R O O M S | 4 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S

Guide price £1,650,000

edward.clarkson@knightfrank.com 01392 240978

Holt, Wiltshire A rare opportunity to acquire a three bedroom house, with an annexe, outbuildings and beautiful river frontage; close to Bradford on Avon. 3 - 4 B E D R O O M S | 2 - 3 B AT H R O O M S | 2 - 3 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S | P A D D O C K S & W O O D L A N D | A P P R O X I M AT E LY 6 . 9 5 A C R E S | E P C F

Guide price £1,150,000

francesca.leighton-scott@knightfrank.com 01225 685523

Axbridge, Somerset 16th century former farmhouse with extensive outbuildings in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. 4 B E D R O O M S | 3 B AT H R O O M S | 3 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S | A P P R O X I M AT E LY 9 . 6 8 A C R E S | E P C D

Guide price £1,300,000

james.toogood@knightfrank.com 01174 054802

If you’re thinking of selling your home, or would simply like some advice on the market, get in touch today. We’d love to help you.

Your partners in property for 125 years

knightfrank.co.uk

Distinctive Victorian House Bourn, Cambridgeshire M11 (J12): 7 miles, Cambridge: 9 miles Idyllic setting with glorious gardens, grounds and far-reaching views. 4 reception rooms, 5 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, swimming pool, hard tennis court, stables, coach house/stable block with office above, landscaped gardens and paddocks. About 23.44 acres | Guide £2.75 million Lucy Banks Savills Cambridge 01223 858 786 lbanks@savills.com

Chris Carey Bidwells Cambridge 01223 841 842 chris.carey@bidwells.co.uk

savills

savills.co.uk

Private and Historic Estate Hexham, Northumberland Hexham: 5 miles, Corbridge: 5.5 miles, A1 (J75): 19 miles Beautiful Grade II listed hall in a stunning Tyne Valley setting. 6 bedroom principal house with walled gardens and grounds overlooking a wooded lake, 3 well-appointed courtyard cottages, 13th century Peel tower, extensive outbuildings, productive meadow, parkland and woodland. About 100 acres | Guide £2.25 million Will Douglas Savills York 01904 891 529 wdouglas@savills.com

savills

savills.co.uk

The Wick, Richmond Hill

An iconic Grade I listed Georgian house with glorious protected views over panoramic landscape formed by the meandering River Thames Accommodation of about 8,500 sq ft on four floors, site area of over half-an-acre including lush terraced gardens with heated pool, pool house and off-street parking freehold for sale

OWN T H I S ST IV E S WOR K O F A RT AT S OMEONE E L S E ’ S E X P E N SE

Two an d th ree- bedroom hol i day vi l l as f or s a l e near t he Co r n ish h ar bo u r side t own f a mous f or i ts beaches, uni que l i ght a n d a r t . Award-w in n in g re st a ura nt, i ndoor i nf i ni t y pool , spa a nd g y m . Ou tdo o r po o l, s un t er races and al fresco di ni ng comi ng soon . En joy a 4. 5% g uara nteed re tur n and st ay f or si x we ek s a yea r. Fu ll y man ag ed by t he resor t f or ha ssl e- free ow nershi p. UNASTIVES.CO.UK

Yonder Lodge Elm Road, Penn, Buckinghamshire An outstanding Grade II Listed detached residence, located on a wonderful mature landscaped 10 acre plot with swimming pool, tennis court and equestrian centre.

OIEO £5,000,000 9 Bedrooms

4 Receptions

7 Bathrooms

A stunning property in South Buckinghamshire 7 - 8 The Arcade, Maxwell Road, Beaconsﬁeld, Buckinghamshire HP9 1QT Email us at : hello@bovingdons.com Call us on : 01494 677 733 Visit : www.bovingdons.com

International SUMMER 2021

BENEATH A SUNNY SKY Where to enjoy the good season

Scandal and poetry: why the Georgians moved abroad PAGE 30 CLI310.cli_cover.indd 35

Garden favourites: the plants that come from overseas PAGE 42 16/06/2021 15:29

G O R D E S, F R A N C E

beautiful farmhouse situated in a hamlet close to the village of Gordes. Surrounded by Provencal gardens and views over the countryside, it is the perfect, tranquil escape, with a large summer kitchen for entertaining guests.

Guide price €1,880,000

knightfrank.com/overseas-property

laetitia.hodson@knightfrank.com +44 20 3925 9006

COGOLIN, FRANCE

n enchanting Provencal home within striking distance of Saint-Tropez. Built over three floors, this property features generous living areas, an office space and an annexe for additional guests, with views over the gardens.

Guide price €1,900,000 jack.harris@knightfrank.com +44 20 3468 9178

knightfrank.com/overseas-property

LU C CA , I TA LY

eautifully restored farmhouse located in one of the most renowned areas of the Lucca countryside. The property includes a swimming pool, a pergola perfect for outdoor dining and views over the open countryside. 6 B E D R O O M S | 5 B A T H R O O M S | S W I M M I N G P O O L | T E R R A C E | P R I VA T E P A R K I N G | G A R D E N O F 8 , 0 0 0 S Q M

Guide price €1,550,000

knightfrank.com/overseas-property

amy.redfern-woods@knightfrank.com +44 20 7861 1057

C E N T R A L A L G A RV E , P O RT U G A L

traditional Portuguese villa set in wonderful countryside close to the Golden Triangle. The villa offers spacious living throughout with an excellent 'al-fresco' dining area perfect for entertaining and far reaching views. 4 B E D R O O M S | 4 B AT H R O O M S | 3 R E C E P T I O N R O O M S | S W I M M I N G P O O L | T E R R A C I N G 5 ,0 0 0 S Q M O F G AT E D G R O U N D S

Guide price €1,950,000 alex.kdeg@knightfrank.com +44 20 3925 9233

knightfrank.com/overseas-property

Spectacular Ocean Views Algarve, Portugal Faro Airport: 20 kilometres An inviting hideaway of Moorish influence in the Ria Formosa with views over the countryside and towards Armona island. 6 en suite bedrooms, underfloor heating and air conditioning throughout, fully-equipped outdoor kitchen with a gas grill and pizza oven for alfresco dining, swimming pool, guest house, terraces and beautiful gardens.

About 1.7 acres | Guide €3.65 million

Alice Storrie Savills Global Residential 020 3944 7804 astorrie@savills.com

savills

savills.com

Nothing Compares. LY F O R D C AY, B A H A M A S

I S L A N D S AT O L D F O R T, B A H A M A S

502 Sunnyside Penthouse

3E Shoreline Drive

5 BR | 6.5 BA | 9,393 sf | $4,250,000

5 BR | 4 BA | 3,600 sf | $3,500,000

Exceptional living, expansive terraces and stunning ocean views.

Unique property with 323’ on Canal, Guest Cottage and 60’ Dock.

Property ID 85351

Property ID 44824

Nick.Damianos@SIRbahamas.com

+1.242.376.1841

Colleen.Carey@SIRbahamas.com

+1.242.818.6038

Ashley.Brown@SIRbahamas.com

+1.242.422.5559

PA R A D I S E I S L A N D, B A H A M A S

W E ST B AY ST R E E T, N A S S A U , B A H A M A S

Ocean Club Residences & Marina

Columbus Cove

3 BR | 3.5 BA | 3,276 sf | $2,850,000

4 BR | 4 BA | 2,200 sf | $899,000

A dock slip that can accommodate a 45-foot boat is included.

Beachfront townhouse. Ocean terraces. Two pools, gym. Gated.

Property ID 41892

Property ID 44378

Samira.Coleby@SIRbahamas.com

1.242.376.6248

Craig.Pinder@SIRbahamas.com

+1.242.457.2282

DAMIANOS SOTHEBY’S INTERNATIONAL REALTY | HEAD OFFICE • NASSAU, BAHAMAS | +1.242.322.2305 | SIRBAHAMAS.COM

International SUMMER SUNSHINE

Contents News 26

Italian art, Greek wrecks and Miami food

Home from home 30

Whether driven by scandal or a sense of adventure, many Georgians left these shores for a Grand Tour that sometimes became permanent, finds Carla Passino

We’ll always have summer 36 Cover Villa Monastero, Lake Como, Italy (Getty) Above Lefkada Island, Greece (Getty)

Editor Carla Passino Chief Sub-Editor Octavia Pollock Picture Editor Lucy Ford Design Sarah Readman, Ben Harris, Heather Clark, Steve Mumby Editor-in-chief Mark Hedges Advertising Oliver Pearson 07961 800887 Email: oliver.pearson@futurenet.com

From wild swimming in Sicily to spotting monkeys in Gibraltar, there is sunshine somewhere. Antonia Windsor picks the places to go, as soon as we can

The plants that come from afar 42

Steven Desmond surveys his garden and ponders the international origins of many of our beloved plants

Another day in paradise 46

Would you prefer to laze away the day on a sweep of white sand or explore swathes of wildflower meadows? Holly Kirkwood finds properties to suit everyone’s taste, from wild Wyoming to luxurious Mauritius

Treasure island 52

Marbella has thrown off its partying past to embrace its rich culture, history and food, discovers Arabella Youens

A slice of Germany with a side of England 56

Munich tea-house owner Jonathan Phelps examines the similarities and often surprising differences between his home and his adopted country

CLI310.cli_contents.indd 43

17/06/2021 14:55

News

The sun and scenery of Sotogrande remains popular with both buyers and architects

Dive into Greece

ECREATIONAL divers have the opportunity to discover a treasure trove of wrecks on the Greek seabed, part of a drive to catalogue and preserve European underwater cultural heritage. The country’s first designated underwater museum opened in 2019 within the National Marine Park of Alonissos and Northern Sporades. It centres on the Peristera shipwreck, which sank near Alonissos island, in the Western Aegean, in the 5th century BC, carrying a cargo of some 4,000 wine amphorae. The site will re-open from June to November, and three more will launch in the near future, including a Roman wreck off Cape Telegrafos and a Byzantine shipwreck at Kikinthos. The Ministry of Culture announced in March that it will gradually open up the sites of nearly 100 underwater wrecks dating between 1868 and 1970, with the majority from the Second World War. The list features Titanic’s sister ship HMHS Britannic. HK

The energy of South Beach is seeping into the market

Miami on the menu A

LTHOUGH much of the US was effectively shut down last winter, Florida’s looser restrictions meant Miami’s restaurants could open for business. It wasn’t only visitors who flocked to the sunshine, but also some of the top names of American cuisine. New openings in the city include Korean steakhouse Cote, Harlem’s legendary Red Rooster and celebrity magnet Carbone. A corresponding boom is taking place in the city’s property market, according to Magnus Jennemyr from Engel & Völkers, who reports prices at the top end rocketed by 20% as Miami was re-energised last winter. ‘The exceptional quality of life is contributing to demand, as buyers envisage being able to spend longer periods of time here with flexible working arrangements.’ HK

HEN Col Joseph McMicking broke ground at Sotogrande in 1962, his Andalusian estate attracted well-established architects keen to work in an attractive, low-density setting. Now, as the Spanish resort prepares to celebrate its 60th anniversary, the properties there provide a fascinating insight into the evolution of modern Mediterranean architecture. Many of the villas first built at Sotogrande were in American hacienda style: their pretty clay tiles, stucco walls and private courtyards were ideally suited to the climate and the period. In the 1970s, a trend developed for expansive low-rise properties that wore their Moorish influence lightly and were superb for entertaining, but, over the subsequent two decades, many of the older buildings were gradually replaced by houses with larger footprints and more contemporary lines. These villas helped to redefine the concept of Mediterranean style, bringing in more natural light and seamlessly flowing from indoor to outdoor wherever possible. This year, the resort continues innovating by working with top talent as it launches The Seven, a group of architect-designed villas that will be part of the La Gran Reserva development. Plots at The Seven start at €7.6 million; www.sotogrande.com Holly Kirkwood

Alamy; Getty

Stargazing tours are having a moment as people seek to reconnect with Nature in darksky destinations around the world. Lake Tekapo on New Zealand’s South Island is the southern hemisphere’s top place for stargazing and Silver Fern Holidays can arrange tours to include the extraordinary Mount John Observatory (01636 813544)

The changing face of Sotogrande

CLI310.cli_news.indd 26

17/06/2021 14:32

News

Dubai’s own Crystal Palace H

ELD in Hyde Park’s Crystal Palace in 1851, the first ever World Expo captured the imagination of an entire generation. Now taking place every five years, the event is an opportunity to showcase some of the most groundbreaking innovations and ideas from around the globe. This year, delayed from 2020, it is the turn of Dubai to take centre stage as the World Expo makes its debut in the UAE. Running from this October to March 2022, Expo 2020 Dubai is being billed as the largest event ever to take place in the Arab world. The emirate has spent more than $8 billion developing a site on the outskirts of the city into a modern wonderland of technology and architecture—Dubai’s very own equivalent of the Crystal Palace. The World Expo will host pavilions from 190 countries, and notable exhibits will include a 3D-printed resin copy of Michelangelo’s David in the Italy pavilion, a demonstration of Uber’s plans for flying cars and a virtual-reality hike to the top of a foggy mountain in Switzerland (www.expo2020dubai.com). HK

Might Botticelli’s Birth of Venus be leaving the Uffizi?

Under the Tuscan sun

Strange encounters

Alamy; Getty

ALK along the thick ramparts of Gradara (above), near Pesaro in Italy, in the late afternoon and, together with long views of the medieval village, the rolling Marche countryside and the Adriatic coast, you may spot the ghost of a young woman standing on the castle battlements and staring into the horizon. It’s Francesca da Polenta, still looking for her lover, Paolo Malatesta, more than 700 years after their death. As wretched as she was beautiful, Francesca had married the Lord of Gradara, the ugly, ill-tempered Gianciotto Malatesta, then promptly fallen in love with his kind, handsome younger brother, Paolo. The castle’s servants betrayed the lovers to Gianciotto, who pretended to go on a journey, but returned early and found them together. Enraged, he tried to kill Paolo, but Francesca put herself between her lover and her husband’s sword. Unrepentant, Gianciotto also murdered his brother, throwing him into a well lined with sharp blades. Story has it that Paolo’s ghost now wanders the castle’s basement, ever trying, but always failing to reach Francesca on the parapet. The medieval fortress—one of the best preserved in Italy—is open to the public and runs Paolo and Francesca-themed tours (www.gradara.org). Carla Passino

LANS have been announced by the Uffizi Galleries in Italy to install works from its collection at some 100 sites across Tuscany by 2024, as part of The Uffizi Diffusi scheme. The idea behind the project is to reduce heavy footfall at the Florentine museum, as well as encouraging visitors to explore the Tuscan countryside. All the relocated pieces will be linked to their venues through historical and artistic context; the first sites outside the Uffizi Galleries are likely to include both the Medici Villa di Careggi and the Medici Villa l’Ambrogiana, where works by Botticelli are expected to be on display (for more information, visit www.uffizi.it). In a departure from its usual fare, the museum has also launched its own cooking channel, in which Italian chefs prepare dishes inspired by works of art, from a juicy beef costata (from Jacopo Chimenti’s The Pantry) to spider crab, sea bass and soles (from Giacomo Ceruti’s The Boy with a Basket of Fish). Videos are in Italian only, but English subtitles are available (www.uffizi.it/en/video). 27

CLI310.cli_news.indd 27

17/06/2021 14:33

020 3918 9635 I NTE R N ATI O NA L@ HAM P TO N S .C O.U K HA M P TO N S - I NTE R N ATI O N AL .C O.U K

NERNIER, FRANCE £2,400,000

BLOUBERT, SOUTH AFRICA £756,000

A unique lakeside property within an intriguing history, set directly on the waters edge, within the medieval village of Nernier. The property includes a large garden.

A 850 sq. m. architectural masterpiece, with 360 degree views of Table Mountain, the Atlantic Ocean and Robben Island. The property boasts six bedrooms, all with en-suites.

LAS BRISAS, SPAIN £3,100,000

HOLMBURY, JERSEY £8,750,000 FREEHOLD

A sensational new villa, offered fully interior designed and ready to move in, with panoramic views over Marbella’s Golf Valley and the La Concha mountain.

Situated in the heart of the island and surrounded by ten acres of equine land. A ten bedroom home boasting a traditional façade and features, but with modern touches throughout.

JUST REMEMBER

YO U R PAS S PORT

CEDAR VALLEY, JERSEY £7,500,000 FREEHOLD

AVLAKI, CORFU £1,700,000

This six bedroom estate house is set by the sea in St Martin. The property is secluded and private, offering the rare combination of a coastal retreat within its own woodland.

Built within a peaceful olive grove, this splendid four bedroom villa enjoys beautiful scenery, sea views and is only a short stroll from the fabulous beach at Avlaki.

POLLENÇA, MALLORCA £1,485,000

PUERTO CALERO, LANZAROTE £1,200,000

A delightful country home, including 3,400 sq. ft. of internal living space and a beautiful mature garden, surrounding a 60 sq. m. swimming pool.

An impressive off-plan property boarding a protected nature reserve, situated in the exclusive resort of Puerto Calero, just a short walk from the iconic marina.

We are a truly international business, with a network of over 7,000 affiliate partner offices that criss-cross the globe, providing access to the world’s best properties. We have a huge array of homes at an equally diverse range of prices. So, wherever you dream of escaping to, we can make it happen. H A M P T O N S - I N T E R N AT I O N A L . C O . U K

Top row: Mary Shelley; much-visited Venice; the Gulf of Patras. Bottom row: Pisa; Lerici, Gulf of Poets; Lord Byron in Albanese costume

Home from home Whether it was to avoid the whiff of scandal or pursue new adventures, many Georgians left Britain for a life abroad, finds Carla Passino

Elizabeth Chudleigh, Duchess of Kingston (1721–88) The orphaned daughter of a former lieutenant governor of Chelsea’s Royal Hospital, the young Elizabeth lacked neither beauty nor

an enterprising spirit. A maid of honour to Augusta, Princess of Wales, she married Augustus Hervey, a Navy lieutenant and later the Earl of Bristol, in secret, so they could each keep their positions. After the relationship failed, the crafty Elizabeth persuaded a court to declare that she was ‘free of all matrimonial contracts’, so she could wed Evelyn Pierrepont, 2nd Duke of Kingston-upon-Hull in March 1769. The Duke died a few years later, leaving her a fortune, but his family, who hoped to claw back the inheritance, dredged up her past and accused her of bigamy. Found guilty, she promptly removed herself (and much of her late husband’s wealth) to Buyers could re-create the notorious Duchess of Kingston’s Chudleigh vodka from this 74-acre estate in Estonia. €3.5m

Live in Estonia (below)

This 74-acre riverside estate comes with an early-19th-century manor, a spa complex and a six-bedroom villa. €3.5 million, Sotheby’s International Realty (00 37 2644 3446; www.sothebysrealty.com) Europe. She lived in several countries, but it was in Russia, then blossoming under the rule of another enterprising woman, Catherine the Great, that she made her greatest mark. Having charmed the Empress and the Russian nobility, she decided to create a model estate Getty; Alamy; RotiliDeSimone

HEN Thomas Howard, 14th Earl of Arundel, embarked on his first trip to Padua, Italy, in 1612, he couldn’t have imagined he’d start a trend that would grip British Society. His experiences in Italy sparked a wave of interest in European travel, which, over time, evolved into the Grand Tour. Most British gentlemen (and the odd lady) spent three years abroad to polish their knowledge of art, architecture and the classics, but some made a different choice, settling overseas for longer. Several of these early ‘expats’ had little alternative, perhaps due to scandal or because they were in the service of the kingdom. But a few craved new horizons or, once abroad, discovered a taste for adventure that led them to remain overseas for the rest of their lives. Here are some of their extraordinary tales.

CLI310.cli_georgians.indd 30

17/06/2021 12:27

Georgian travellers Left: Follow Lady Hamilton to this Naples villa. Below: Nelson fought Neapolitan rebels at Procida, Italy’s 2022 culture capital

in Estonia (then part of Russia). She named it Chudleigh, after herself, and embarked on a wild project to distil her own vodka (some say brandy). An anonymous detractor ridiculed her for it—‘What a falling off was here! A candidate for the first honour in a state degenerating into a distiller of spirits!’—but she pulled off the feat (albeit at astronomical cost) and had Chudleigh vodka served in the estate’s inn and taverns. However, France beckoned and she eventually left to live at the eye-wateringly expensive Château de Sainte-Assise, outside Paris, where she died in August 1788, having planned a return visit to Russia she would never manage to make.

Emma, Lady Hamilton (1765–1815)

Getty; Alamy; RotiliDeSimone

Emma Hamilton did not choose to live abroad. Born Amy Lyon near Neston, Cheshire, she moved to London in search of employment, but became a Society sensation and the mistress of some gentlemen-about-town, including Charles Francis Greville. Unfortunately, Greville was in need of a good marriage and

Live in Naples (top)

Built as a bird-hunting lodge, this threebedroom property enjoys magnificent sea views. Price on request, Sotheby’s International Realty (00 39 06 7925 8888; www.sothebysrealty.com)

Amy, by then known as Emma Hart, was baggage he could do without—so he unceremoniously shipped her to his uncle, Sir William Hamilton, the British envoy to Naples. Sir William was delighted; Emma, not so much. But Naples and her host grew on her and she enchanted both with her Attitudes, in which she dressed in neo-Classical style and gave ‘a living spectacle of masterpieces of the most celebrated artists of antiquity,’ according to a French visitor, Joseph, Comte d’Espinchal, who noted that she had ‘a volupté, a grace that would set on fire the coldest and most insensible man’. It certainly worked on Sir William, who married her in 1791. Then, one day, Admiral Nelson arrived. He had briefly met the Hamiltons a few years earlier, but now he was the hero of the Battle of the Nile and poor Sir William didn’t stand a chance. Emma was already pregnant with Horatia by the time she, her husband and Nelson returned to England for good in 1800. Their menage à trois didn’t last long, however, with Sir William dying in London in 1803

and Nelson at Trafalgar in 1805. Emma ended her glamorous life the way she had started it: with an enforced move abroad. Plagued by creditors, she arrived in Calais in July 1814, only to die six months later, in January 1815.

Lord Byron (1788–1824) By April 1816, scandal and debt troubled George Gordon Byron. His marriage to Anne Isabella Milbanke had collapsed, rumours of a relationship with his half-sister, Augusta Leigh, gripped London and creditors were circling. For Byron, recently returned from the Grand Tour, heading abroad must have seemed an obvious choice. After a spell in Switzerland, he went to Venice, where he became entranced by Armenian culture and married women. Byron’s fights with one of his Venetian mistresses, the ‘handsome virago’ Margarita Cogni, became legendary, but it was another (married) woman that would most mark his life: Countess Teresa Guiccioli. For her, Byron moved first to Ravenna, setting up home in a villa he shared with ‘10 horses, eight enormous dogs, three monkeys, five cats, an eagle, a crow, and a falcon,’ according to Shelley, then, after Teresa separated from her husband, to Pisa, where the couple was at the heart of a vibrant group of British writers and intellectuals. Byron’s adventurous nature reared its head again and, after a time in Genoa, he joined Greece’s rebellion against Ottoman rule. ‘No undertaking could interest him more strongly; the object, the scene, the danger were powerful incentives,’ wrote Teresa’s brother, Pietro Gamba, in his memoirs. Arriving in August in Kefalonia, the poet spent time and money to improve the Greek fleet, garner support for the independence cause among the British and relieve the ‘many unfortunate Greek families’ who had fled to the island. In January, he met independence leader Alexandros

Live in Kefalonia (below)

Perched high on the rocks, this villa has a separate guest house and striking sea views. £2.5 million, Savills (00 30 266 104 0105; www.savills.com) You could enjoy the views that entranced Lord Byron with this villa set high on the idyllic Greek island of Kefalonia. £2.5m

CLI310.cli_georgians.indd 31

17/06/2021 12:27

Georgian travellers Left: Echo Byron and Shelley by settling in Pisa. Below: ‘Modern Circe’ Hester Stanhope’s residence in Joun, Lebanon, in 1834

Live in Pisa (right)

Set in beautiful countryside near Pisa, this 15,598sq ft farmhouse has six bedrooms and 12 apartments. €2.18 million, Christie’s International Realty’s affiliate Romolini International (00 39 05 7578 8948; www.christiesrealestate.com)

Mavrokordatos in Messolonghi and agreed to lead an attack on the fortress of Lepanto. Before he could set sail, however, his health took a turn for the worse and he died on April 19, 1824, with Greece still firmly in his mind, according to Gamba: ‘I have given her my time, my means, my health—and now I give her my life. What could I do more?’

Percy Bysshe Shelley (1792– 1822) and Mary Shelley (1797–1851) Visited by the ‘tyranny, civil and religious’ that clutched England—by which he meant an ongoing battle with the Court of Chancery for the custody of his children—Percy Bysshe Shelley and his wife, Mary, left England in 1818. The lure of a freer life abroad enticed the Shelleys as much as necessity pushed them towards their ‘contented exile’. Their stay in ‘serene and golden Italy’ was certainly free, but also chaotic, as they embarked on a cavalcade across towns and cities (Bagni di Lucca, Venice, Este, Rome, Livorno, Florence, Pisa and Lerici) that was often marred by tragedy (the deaths of their daughter, Clara, in 1818 and their eldest son, William, in 1819) and the occasional joy (the birth of their youngest son, Percy Florence, in 1819). At almost every stop, Shelley also found a new love interest, which caused a deepening rift with Mary. Even so, Italy provided a constant source of inspiration for the poet, who wrote some of his most successful works there, including The Cenci, a dark play set in Renaissance Rome. It also fanned the flames of his political interest. When the Shelleys arrived, Italy was in the throes of a change that would lead to unification. Living in a country gripped by revolutionary winds, Shelley took an active interest in British politics, making plans with Byron and Leigh Hunt to launch a new magazine, The Liberal, to address the English from abroad. But sailing back from Livorno, Shelley’s schooner was hit by a storm and everyone on board drowned. With no news, a distraught Mary journeyed to Livorno, asking: ‘Sapete alcuna cosa di Shelley?’ (‘Do you know anything of Shelley’?) to all and sundry. In 1823, she and Percy Florence returned to England, but about 20 years later, mother

and son took one more trip across the Continent: memoirs from that journey, Rambles in Germany and Italy, were her last work.

Lady Hester Stanhope (1776–1838) The daughter of the eccentric 3rd Earl of Stanhope and the niece of William Pitt the Younger, for whom she ‘kept house’ at Walmer Castle in Kent, Lady Hester Stanhope had no obvious reason to leave Britain. Whether she was bored, was spurred by her brother’s death or, as her doctor and biographer Charles Lewis Meryon suggests, was bothered by ‘the narrowness of her income’, she set sail for Greece on February 1810 to tour the Middle East. After Egypt, Lebanon, Syria and Palestine, where she excavated an archaeological site at Ashkelon, she settled in Lebanon, first near Sidon, then in a ‘remote, solitary’ house at Joun, where she spent the rest of her life. Dressed in a Turkish gentleman’s garb— scarlet pantaloons under a crimson robe and keffiyeh and fez on her shaved head—she was an absolute ruler over her own domain,

albeit a charitable and generous one: Meryon describes her as a ‘modern Circe’ requiring ‘unqualified submission to her will’ and reveals she had ‘completely intimidated’ her nearest neighbour, the Druze Emir Beshyr, ‘by the unparalleled boldness of her tongue and pen’. She was so self-assured that, when the British government threatened to take away her pension in 1838, she wrote to the Duke of Wellington: ‘Your Queen has no business to meddle in my affairs,’ sending a duplicate of the letter to Victoria for good measure. By then, the same ‘narrowness of income’ that may have caused her to travel was troubling her again. She died in debt, alone, but unvanquished: ‘I am contented with the violence of my own character,’ she wrote. ‘It draws a line for me between friends and enemies.’

Live in the Middle East

With Lebanon unstable, Dubai is a better bet for a slice of Middle Eastern life, perhaps at this villa with panoramic pool. AED 30 million, Knight Frank (009 714 4267 616)

For a safer Middle Eastern experience than that experienced by Lady Hester Stanhope, try this spectacular villa in Dubai. AED30m

CLI310.cli_georgians.indd 32

17/06/2021 12:27

Discretion

Knowledge

Experience

Integrity

This classical style villa is located in the most exclusive residential area of Nueva Andalucia, Marbella, with stunning sea and golf views. This elegant residence has exquisite attention to detail and a perfect distribution. Accommodation comprises large living areas and extensive terraces - ideal for entertaining, large family kitchen, master bedroom with mezzanine floor and his and her bathrooms and dressing rooms, 5 further bedroom suites, state-of-the-art cinema room, gymnasium, lift, and a garage for 5 cars. Bedrooms 6

Built 1.057m2

Bathrooms 6

Urb. Las Torres del Marbella Club, Local nº1 Blvd Príncipe Alfonso de Hohenlohe 29602, Marbella, Málaga, Spain.

Tel. (+34) 952 81 06 08 callum@callumswan.com www.callumswanrealty.com

Plot 2.407m2

SEVEN MILE BEACH, GRAND CAYMAN, CAYMAN ISLANDS | $8,700,000 IRG — International Realty Group Ltd. James O’Brien — +1 345 327 0058 WEB ID: NZFL3

Well Connected.™ Finding your home is a personal process of discovery, and the accomplished global network of Luxury Portfolio International® member companies are ready to assist in the journey. Explore over 50,000 of the world’s ﬁnest properties marketed on luxuryportfolio.com each year. Enter the property Web ID for more detail.

LUXURYPORTFOLIO.COM CHICAGO +1 312 424 0400 LONDON +44 20 7872 5525 NEW YORK +1 212 521 4390 SINGAPORE +65 6408 0507

@luxuryportfolio

LOS ANGELES, CA | $35,900,000 A Timeless Georgian Landmark in Prime East Gate Bel-Air. Sited on almost 1 acre.

LOS ANGELES, CA | $26,000,000 New 2020 construction. Approx. 11,500sqft with massive 3,000sqft pool deck.

MARATHON, FL | $12,500,000 Rare opportunity in Marathon, Grassy Key to own your own private compound.

Hilton & Hyland Drew Fenton — +1 310 858 5474

Illustrated Properties Real Estate, Inc. Billy Nash — +1 732 998 6377

WEB ID: QPKS3

WEB ID: MXDR3

WEB ID: XARN3

BAINBRIDGE ISLAND, WA | $3,900,000 Timeless & distinctive 10 acre Farm estate reﬂects the best of Bainbridge Island.

PARIS 7TH, FRANCE | €3,503,385 Carrez law apartment offers unobstructed views of the Seine.

LAGUNA BEACH, CA | $3,750,000 Modern contemporary residence newly constructed in 2018.

John L. Scott Real Estate Eileen Black — +1 206 696 1540

Junot +01 42 55 20 00

First Team Real Estate Meital Taub — +1 949 922 9552

WEB ID: QRRS3

WEB ID: ZRGF3

WEB ID: NBPX3

HUNTLEIGH, MO | $3,495,000 This stylish and sophisticated estate is situated on two acres in pastoral Huntleigh.

MORGANTON, GA | $3,475,000 Over 17,000 square feet of custom crafted ﬁnishes from ﬂoor to ceiling.

BEDMINSTER TWP., NJ | $1,999,000 The River House, river frontage, 6.5± acres, 5BR, 5.3BA, NYC approx. 50 miles.

Janet McAfee Inc. Kathleen Lovett — +1 314 997 4800

Harry Norman, REALTORS Amanda Jewell — +1 912 401 7653

Turpin Real Estate, Inc. Gerry-Jo Cranmer — +1 908 234 9100

WEB ID: GZRB3

WEB ID: TIMS3

WEB ID: NNXS3

©2021 Luxury Portfolio International.® Equal Housing Opportunity. Offering is subject to errors, omissions, change of price, or withdrawal without notice. All information considered reliable; however, it has been supplied by third parties and should not be relied on as accurate or complete. Equal Opportunity Employer. All qualiﬁed applicants will receive consideration for employment without regard to race, color, religion, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, national origin, protected veteran status or disabled status.

When hobbies become holidays

We’ll always have summer

Best for wild swimming Sicily, Italy

ROM the powder-soft sand of Sicily’s beaches, you can take easy dips in the warm waters of the Mediterranean, but for the ultimate exhilarating summer swim, you should try what the Italians call acqua dolce (literally, sweet water). Wild swimming in this southerly Italian island is, indeed, sweet. For a sense of complete seclusion, head to the freshwater pools at Cavagrande del Cassibile Nature Reserve (above). Also known as the Laghetti d’Avola, these natural bathing spots are set in a dramatic limestone canyon with 984ft walls, formed by the River Cassibile.

Alamy; Visit Gibraltar; Christian Schneider Photography

International travel may have barely resumed, but Antonia Windsor has the pick of the places where you can enjoy the good season to the fullest now or in years to come

Be prepared to walk for more than an hour through a hillside of plane trees, willows and ferns down to the emerald-green pools, with a slightly longer climb back. Luckily, there is a bar at the top to quench your thirst —or you could head to the nearby seaside town of Avola to sit in the shade of palmlined piazza for a glass of Nero d’Avola, the hearty red wine that is made in the region. Live there Set in the Avola countryside, close to the beautiful town of Noto, Villa Meti has a minimalist design, four bedrooms and an openplan living area matched by outdoor seating

and dining spaces—plus a spectacular infinity pool. €1.9 million, Sotheby’s International Realty (0039 093 1174 0119; www.sothebysrealty.com)

CLI310.cli_summer.indd 36

17/06/2021 13:37

Best summer road trip Highway 395, US

HINK of a summer drive and you might conjure up the image of a convertible on Pacific Ocean Highway, but the US has another great summer driving route that not many people know about. On the eastern side of California’s Sierra Nevada mountain range lies Highway 395, which skirts the intersection of arid desert, rolling sagebrush and alpine mountains. You’ll drive through expansive valleys, past crystal-clear lakes, natural hot springs and wildflower-lined mountain hikes, bursting with colour.

Further up the 395 sits the magnificent, one-million-year-old State Reserve Mono Lake, with its otherworldly ‘tufa towers’, mineral formations that rise out of the water creating a lunar landscape (above). This ancient inland sea is saltier than the ocean and harbours a thriving, but fragile ecosystem of interdependent plant and animal species, some of which are found nowhere else in the world—including a newly discovered, microscopic worm, temporarily dubbed Auanema sp., which has three different sexes, can survive 500 times the lethal

Alamy; Visit Gibraltar; Christian Schneider Photography

Live there Just off the Nevada leg of Highway 395 in Zephyr Cove’s Elk Point Country Club sits this spectacular property, which has been newly renovated in a contemporary style and comes for sale furnished—even down to the full bar. $3.95 million, Mayfair International Realty’s associate Chase International (001 775 901 6633; www.mayfair internationalrealty.com)

Best for desert-island beaches Algarve, Portugal

Best for wildlife spotting Gibraltar MAGINE if wild monkeys roamed everywhere in Europe, barrelling onto barges in Bruges, pinching pains au chocolat in Paris or stealing sunhats in Siena. Thankfully (or perhaps sadly?) there’s only one European outpost left for these mischievous creatures and that’s the British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar, where about 230 Barbary Macaques live on the limestone rock. Often mistakenly called apes, they are actually Macaca Sylvanus tail-less monkeys and were originally recorded when a Spanish historian from Gibraltar, Alonso Hernández del Portillo, wrote what might be the first history of the place in the early 17th century. Today, the monkeys are managed by the Gibraltar Ornithological & Natural History Society and receive water and vegetables, fruit and seeds as a supplement to natural food resources. They are also numbered and microchipped and get regular check-ups.

human dose of arsenic and carries its young inside its body like a kangaroo.

ICTURE a sand-swept island with a sixmile coastline, where the only crowds are of flamingos and storks. Ilha Deserta, commonly known as Barreta Island, is the least developed and inhabited of an archipelago of sandy islands off the coast of Faro in the Algarve, which make up the Ria Formosa Natural Park. Catch a water taxi or ferry from Faro’s Porta Nova Pier, but don’t forget to find out the times of the last boat home, as you won’t find anywhere to stay on the island. Idle away a day with a walk to Cabo de Santa Maria beach, officially the most southerly point of mainland Portugal, a glorious stretch of golden sand facing the heaving blue expanse of the Atlantic. When you tire of sunbathing, head to the marshy lagoon on the north of the island to see those flamingos and storks. Monkeys aren’t all Gibraltar has to offer the wildlife enthusiast, either. The rocky peninsula is famous for its soaring congregations of migratory birds on their way to and from Africa and several dolphin species breed in the bay, which is also visited by the occasional migrating whale.

Live there Set in Quinta do Lago, by the Ria Formosa Nature Reserve, this six-bedroom villa has landscaped gardens and a pool. €4.45 million, Savills (020–7016 3754; www.savills.com)

Live there Eight-bedroom Fortress House is one of Gibraltar’s oldest and largest colonial houses. In need of restoration, it could make an extraordinary home once refurbished. £3.15 million, Savills (00 350 2006 6633; www.savills.com) 37

CLI310.cli_summer.indd 37

17/06/2021 13:37

When hobbies become holidays

Best for waterside dining Lake Como, Italy

HERE’S been something missing at the sophisticated Italian pleasure lake. You can enjoy yachts, speedboats and even hotair balloons, but a lakeside fish restaurant was hard to find. Now, the union of two notable family businesses has solved that problem, with the launch of Giacomo al Lago at Grand Hotel Tremezzo, bringing the well-known Milan restaurant to the grande dame lakeside hotel. This season’s launch comes with a menu celebrating the freshest seafood, from the delectable red prawns of Mazara del Vallo to sea bream and snapper. The restaurant is at the newly opened T Beach, Lake Como’s first

‘beach club’, where vintage sun loungers line a beach of real sand and look out over the hotel’s famous floating swimming pool. Live there Right across the lake from Tremezzo, in Bellagio, stands this spectacular Belle

Best for adventurous families The Ötztal valley, Austria

VERY child loves a mascot and Widi the friendly mountain sheep with big eyes encourages little ones to explore Austria’s dramatic Ötztal Valley. Widi lives at Widiversum Hochoetz, an adventure park (above) where children do challenges to find a magic crystal, but you’ll find its face all over the region. It even gives its name to an activity programme offered by many of the hotels in

summer. But there’s more to do in this corner of Austria beyond looking for Widi: hike to Stuibenfall, Tyrol’s highest waterfall, discover the Ochsenbrunnen Forest Playground or head to the water slides of Area47, the country’s largest outdoor adventure park. Live there This chalet in Imst, thought to date from 1650, links charming period details with views of the Ötztal. €710,000, Engel & Völkers (00 43 52 125 2639; www.engelvoelkers.com)

Époque villa, which has 15 bedrooms, lake and mountain views and almost 10 acres of land. It does need restoration, but has the potential to become one of the most exceptional properties in the area. €2.95 million, Engel & Völkers (00 49 4036 1310; www.engelvoelkers.com)

playground for walkers and hikers. About 250 miles of footpaths zigzag slopes dotted with dabs of yellow buttercups and red poppies amid the sound of cowbells and crickets and perhaps even the cry of a golden eagle. Majestic Pierre Avoi, one of the most iconic symbols of central Valais, keeps watch over the area. Despite its name, ‘pointed’, from avouè, it is almost rectangular and reaches a height of about 8,114ft. From the top, you can see the Val de Bagnes, La Tzoumaz, the Rhône Valley and even Mont Blanc. It’s reached easily on foot, with or without using the ski lifts from Verbier, but the last few yards are via ladders. Live there Set above Savoleyres, this five-bedroom chalet has direct access to summer walks and winter skiing. Price on application, Knight Frank (020–7861 1109; www.knightfrank.co.uk)

Best for hiking Verbier, Switzerland

OU may know Verbier as the ski town where you could bump into James Blunt at breakfast or Pixie Lott at lunch. When the snow melts, the mountains become a grassy 38

CLI310.cli_summer.indd 38

17/06/2021 13:37

Best for diving French Polynesia

OR feeling the fear and swimming anyway, it doesn’t get much better than diving into a sea full of sharks. The waters around French Polynesia are the largest designated shark sanctuary in the world and, if you visit in July, you can experience a phenomenon known as the ‘wall of sharks’. This occurs in the south pass of the island of Fakarava (right), where more than 700 sharks flood the pass to feed on grouper fish. Dive here and you’ll be surrounded by up to 19 different species. Live there North of Fakarava, on the Rangiroa Atoll, Motu Teta is a palm-studded private island

complete with the requisite pure-white sand, turquoise waters—and an exquisite seven-bedroom lodge. €2.6 million, Sotheby’s International Realty (006 89 4050 1111; www.sothebysrealty.com)

Best summer cocktail Puerto Rico

OR that quintessential taste of summer, head to Puerto Rico, the birthplace of the piña colada. Cocktail culture plays a leading role in the island’s vibrant gastronomic offering and the sandy Caribbean shores or cobbled streets of San Juan set the perfect stage to enjoy the iconic summer drink. Made of coconut cream, pineapple juice, white rum and ice, it has mysterious origins—three different bartenders claim to have discovered it. Two hail from the Caribe Hilton Hotel, where they say they invented it in 1954, the other from Barrachina Restaurant in Old San

Best for boules St Paul de Vence

WO letters incorrectly addressed to ‘Saint Paul les Boules’ and ‘Saint Boules de France’ made their way, correctly, to the mayor of Saint-Paul-de-Vence, such is the centrality of the game of boules to this Provençal village. The main square at the entrance, Place de Gaulle, is known more commonly as Place du jeu de boules. Here, villagers and tourists sit in the shade of plane trees or on the terrace of Café de la Place, listening to the thud of boules on the pitch. Tournaments are held throughout the summer, bringing the locals together and drawing

Juan, where they say he invented the tropical delight some years later in 1963. Its contested history aside, the piña colada is now the national drink of Puerto Rico and wherever it’s served on the island, you can savour the sweet taste of summer in a glass. Live there Set in manicured Italian gardens two blocks from the beach, this extraordinary house has been designed to an exacting standard, with marble floors, a Carrara marble bath and painted ceilings. Price on request, Christie’s International Real Estate (001 787 756 6464; www.christiesrealestate.com)

their share of celebrity competitors—French actor and singer Yves Montand even sponsored a competition for village children. The place has long been a hangout of artists and sculptor César created a piece known as Fanny for the Café de la Place: it represents two plump buttocks that players have to kiss when they lose without scoring any points. Live there This 17th century château near St Paul de Vence combines a rich history with beautifully designed interiors, 148-acre grounds and magnificent views. €6.9 million, Knight Frank (020–7861 1139; www.knightfrank.com)

CLI310.cli_summer.indd 39

17/06/2021 13:37

Exclusive Member of

PREMIER LUXURY COLLECTION SANTA BARBARA | MONTECITO | SANTA YNEZ CALIFORNIA, USA

USA | HILLTOP HAVEN

560 TORO CANYON PARK ROAD | MONTECITO | 6BD/10BA DRE 01447045 | US $26,500,000 Presented by Riskin Partners Estate Group +1 805.698.0199

USA | FIGUEROA FARM

1833 FLETCHER WAY | SANTA YNEZ | 5BD/6BA DRE 00753349 | US $12,250,000 Presented by Carey Kendall +1 805.689.6262

USA | RANCHO YNECITA

2975 CALLE BONITA | SANTA YNEZ | 6BD/5BA DRE 00753349 | US $4,495,000 Presented by Carey Kendall +1 805.689.6262

USA | LUXE OCEAN VIEW ESTATE

4160 LA LADERA ROAD | SANTA BARBARA | 6BD/8BA DRE 1447045 | US $23,000,000 Presented by Riskin Partners Estate Group +1 805.698.0199

USA | CLIFF MAY CALIFORNIA RANCH HOUSE

2069 CHINA FLAT ROAD | MONTECITO | 5BD/6BA DRE 00837659 | US $8,500,000 Presented by Patricia Griffin +1 805.705.5133

USA | SPANISH-STYLE HOME

1897 SAN LEANDRO LANE | MONTECITO | 4BD/3BA DRE 01397913 | US $3,895,000 Presented by Emily Kellenberger & Associates +1 805.252.2773

WE REACH A GLOBAL AUDIENCE THROUGH OUR EXCLUSIVE GLOBAL MEMBERSHIPS AND AFFILIATES. GREATER EXPOSURE WITH UNPARALLELED LOCAL EXPERTISE. LEARN MORE AT VILLAGESITE.COM | +1 805.969.8900 | DRE 01206734 All information provided is deemed reliable, but has not been verified and we do not guarantee it. We recommend that buyers make their own inquiries.

Luxury Collection

SOUTHAFRICA –Val deVie Estate,Western Cape

USA – Glenbrook, Nevada

USA - Truckee, California

This grand 1.2 hectare Gentleman’s Estate is the antidote to stylish country living. Includes expansive living areas, vineyards, a private lake and panoramic mountain views.

One of the largest privately held residential land holdings at Lake Tahoe, Crystal Pines is a gated lakefront estate with two parcels on 26+ acres with 800’ of shoreline.

Main and Guest House on 1.72 acres with horse stables. Situated on a private road just 10 minutes to Downtown Truckee and 30 minutes to Reno.

ZAR 58,000,000

US $48,000,000

US $1,800,000

+27 (0)21 863 6105

Val De Vie Properties www.valdevieproperties.co.za

USA – Sanibel Island, FL

Exclusive Gulf Ridge. Beautiful Gulf-Front home featuring Coastal Cottage Architecture. 5 Bedrooms, 5 Baths, separate Guest house and spacious sundecks. Sunsets and Tranquility await. US $4,395,000 +1 239 850 3344

VIP Realty Group Inc www.sancapislandre.com

USA – Brooklyn, New York

Luxury loft with 270° breathtaking views from 28th floor: full service building, loads of amenities, 2848 sq. ft., 10½ ft. ceilings, centrally located in Brooklyn’s famed and fashionable Fort Greene! US $3,950,000 +1 917 860 5015

Brown Harris Stevens www.bhsusa.com

+1 775 762 6130

Chase International www.chaseinternational.com

BARBADOS – Royal Westmoreland

‘Seaduced’ is a high quality, purpose built, stunning 5-bedroom / 7-bathroom villa ideally positioned overlooking the 16th Fairway of Royal Westmoreland’s world-renowned golf course in Barbados. US $5,200,000 +1 246 537 6930

Realtors Limited Barbados www.realtorslimited.com

USA – Barnstable, MA

With breathtaking views of Barnstable Harbor and deeded beach and mooring rights, this exquisite 4 bed home is tranquilly set on an acre of meticulously landscaped grounds.

www.LiveTruckeeTahoe.com

USA – Orange,Virginia

Grand Virginia country estate with 8 beds/10 baths, farm manager’s house, guest house/office complex, stables, kennels, pool, and barns.Award-winning gardens. Spectacular mountain views. US $9,875,000

Washington Fine Properties

+1 202 944 5000

www.wfp.com

USA – Greenwich, CT

Exquisite custom Georgian.1.59 acres near town.Exceptional construction, slate roof. High ceilings, spacious rooms. Gourmet kitchen. Luxurious master suite. 5 ensuite bedrooms.Walkout lower level.

US $2,350,000 Berkshire Hathaway Homeservices Robert Paul Properties

US $5,995,000

+1 508 648 6861

+1 203 869 0700

www.robertpaul.com

Chase International

+1 530 545 2187

Over 450 offices worldwide

Houlihan Lawrence – Greenwich Brokerage www.HoulihanLawrence.com

Favourite plants from far away

The plants that came from afar

MAGINE you woke up one morning and looked out of the window to discover that, as if in a tale by the Brothers Grimm, all the plants of foreign origin in the garden had mysteriously vanished overnight. An inevitable legacy of the nightmare might well be the realisation that so many of our familiar friends come from quite unexpected places. How could that be and how did they get here? It is a curiosity of our climate, oft remarked upon by visitors from overseas, that so many exotic plants are quietly prepared to grow in our gardens without looking as if they would rather be at home. That irritating combination of changeable weather, rain throughout the year and the subtle influence of the Gulf Stream makes this a happy home for plants

from climates as various as Argentina and Siberia, growing side by side in our gardens as if that were perfectly normal. We have, at least for now, a Goldilocks climate. A cursory walk round my own garden to see what came from where was a sobering experience even for me. The group of smallleaved hebe species politely gathered round the front door, for instance, all come from New Zealand, the only home of that genus. My favourite is Hebe rakaiensis, introduced by earnest botanists in the late 19th century. If I wanted to see it in its native clime, an ideal place to do so would be the lovely botanic garden at Christchurch on the South Island (www.ccc.govt.nz). Reports of its utter destruction by the famous earthquakes are grossly exaggerated, thankfully.

Some will argue that the climate of New Zealand is not that different from our own, so let me push the boat out further. On the lawn is a handsome Japanese cherry tree, the blossom of which is blown off by a gale each May just as it reaches its peak. It is in every way as healthy and vigorous as its genetic parents in Japan, where crowds famously admire its blossom in places such as the botanical gardens in Kyoto (www.pref.kyoto.jp). Many plants of Japanese origin in our gardens were brought to Europe by illustrious plant hunters, including Philipp Franz von Siebold in the 19th century. His introductions, including hydrangeas, camellias, hostas, magnolias and indeed cherries, had already been long cultivated in Japanese gardens when Siebold first saw them. We can see him

Getty; Alamy

Steven Desmond searches for beloved garden staples that originally came from foreign lands and suggests where you can see them in their old homes

CLI310.cli_plants.indd 42

17/06/2021 15:50

Facing page, clockwise from top left: New Zealand’s Hebe rakaiensis; a tree peony from Japan; South African Crocosmia ‘Firebird’; China’s viburnum and forsythia. Right: Japanese cherry trees in Scotland

Getty; Alamy

as one of the fathers of the woodland garden. His complex and fascinating life story is celebrated not only in Nagasaki (particularly at the Nagasaki Museum of History and Culture; www.nmhc.jp), but also in the botanic garden at Leiden in the Netherlands (www. hortusleiden.nl), where there is a shrine-like garden to his memory, full of his lovely gifts to us. Mind you, he could have left Japanese knotweed where he found it. Another distant nation responsible for so many of our familiar garden plants is China. Following the Treaty of Nanking, by which we acquired Hong Kong in 1842, the Scottish gardener Robert Fortune went to see what he could find that might flourish at home. After a series of hair-raising adventures—including a pirate attack in which he allowed the pirates to approach within range, then stood up and shot the helmsman, leaving them helpless—he brought us such familiar favourites as the yellow-flowered winter jasmine, several tree peonies and the misnamed Japanese anemone, which lights up our gardens each autumn. Fortune first saw it growing as an adornment on Chinese graves. The flora of China was to prove so important to British gardens that intrepid explorers have continued to send back new sensations at intervals ever since Fortune’s efforts. Where would your garden be without lilies, rhododendrons, the many species of viburnum, or the ubiquitous yellow flowers of forsythia? Surely there can be no botanic garden in the world that does not pay homage to that most ancient and mysterious of trees, the ginkgo, an astonishing relic of the vegetation of millions of years ago (in its country of origin,

There can be no botanic garden in the world that does not pay homage to the ginkgo a good place to view gingkos is Ditan Park in Beijing). Thank you, China, for keeping it going. It is a welcome lesson to us all. One country that, despite the separation of vast distance and a very different climate, has supplied us with many wonderful garden plants is South Africa, together with the lovely mountain kingdom of Lesotho. Our herbaceous borders will always be grateful for the genus crocosmia, the airy beauty of dierama, so well named as angels’ fishing rods, and the so-nearly-hardy-but-not-quite genus eucomis, the tufty yellow-green pineapple lilies. The famous botanical garden at Kirstenbosch (www.sanbi.org), on the flank of Table Mountain, is the ideal place to see these wonders in their native surroundings. Many garden plants come from closer to home and have consequently been with us for longer. We can thank Elizabethan merchants for bringing us Cercis siliquastrum, the

familiar Judas tree, from its widespread home along the shores of the eastern Mediterranean. If that man did hang himself in remorse from the tree, he must have been of slight build. Perhaps the blood-coloured flowers that cover its branches and trunk each spring are the clue to its name. Among the many visitable gardens where we can see its beauty on a grand scale is Yildiz Park in Istanbul, where we can reflect on the fact that the downfall of dynasties often gives the rest of us access to their domains. As I look out into my garden, I do so between the beautiful and long-lasting flowers of windowsill orchids, the result of that revolution in orchid care that has meant that we no longer need the resources of Croesus to enjoy such things. It is nevertheless a thrilling experience to witness such plants growing in their own sultry clime and there can be no better example for the traveller than the great orchid garden at the end of the Botanic Garden in Singapore. There are some things in this life worth getting sweaty for. All those foreign exotics in your garden and on your windowsill are the result, gradual, unpredictable and often unintended, of the complex course of history. It is a world of wonder on our own doorsteps, reminding us of our place in an ever-changing wider world.

Home of a British favourite: Yildiz Park in Istanbul is well known for its Judas trees, brought to the UK by Elizabethan merchants

CLI310.cli_plants.indd 43

17/06/2021 15:50

MALLORCA

Hillside finca with stunning mountain, valley and sea views set in thirty-five acres of almond, fig and carob trees with woodland walks within a large private estate of 3,500,000 square metres. The nearby Senorial finca converted to a five star hotel has a spa, fitness centre and two restaurants, out of sight but a ten minute walk away. A mature Zen inspired, landscaped garden with olive and Mediterranean oaks, spacious lawns and a 14 x 6 metre salt water pool looking towards the sea at Costa del Pins and Canyamel, truly amazing sunrise and sunset vistas. Five bedrooms including upper Master bedroom with terrace, five bathrooms, high tech kitchen with SieMen integrated kitchen appliances, large reception room, opening onto spacious patio, bookcase-lined study and extensive library. Underfloor heating and silent air conditioning. Bougainvillea and Bignonia covered terraces to west and east of the main building. Holiday rental licence. Six minute drive from historic north eastern town of Arta and ten minutes to the only surfing beach. Quiet and peaceful surroundings in the protected nature reserve of the Peninsula de Llevant, a little known and secret valley of Mallorca.

Euros 5,300.00

Tel 0034 672 411 912

Take a break for lunch Make the most of our warmer climate, breathtaking coastline, award-winning beaches and idyllic countryside to achieve a fantastic work-life balance. Isn’t it time you set sail and made Guernsey your home?

Talk to us to discover how easy a move to Guernsey can be.

To start your journey call the Locate Guernsey team on +44 (0)1481 220011, email enquiries@locateguernsey.com, or visit locateguernsey.com Follow us. Search: LocateGuernsey

A better life for you

Beach vs countryside

Another day in paradise It’s hard to choose whether the beach or the countryside is the best setting for the ultimate overseas property. Holly Kirkwood puts each to the test

LOSE your eyes and picture yourself in your ideal getaway. Are you enjoying a sundowner on the terrace after a day amid meadows or diving off the side of a boat into warm waves? Most of us have a natural preference: some are only happy with sun, sea and sand; others need the serenity of the countryside to unplug. There are pros and cons to each (assuming, of course, that one must choose), so which will provide the perfect overseas property? Beach destinations offer a great deal of variety: they can either go ‘disco’ (the bright lights and endless summer nights of Ibiza or Mykonos), ‘go slow’ (the refined version of barefoot luxury at many exotic resorts) or somewhere in between. The beach also tends to work well for multi-generational families, with children’s’ clubs, watersports, beach bars, shops, cafes and discos at hand to entertain all ages—and there is always the option of escaping to sea on a boat if it all gets too much. Beach locations also tend to have longer seasons, which can mean some handy rental returns.

That said, as demonstrated by The Alps’ growing summer following, wealthy buyers are increasingly attracted to the privacy, peace and natural beauty of inland retreats, whether in the countryside or, as it often happens in Continental Europe, on green mountain slopes. Robert Green from Sphere Estates (020–3617 1360) finds that owners like to be able to spend a few weeks at a time in the mountains: better communications mean they can get some work done, as the family gets stuck into riding, mountain biking, fishing, hiking or climbing. ‘Even before the pandemic hit, people were increasingly drawn to the privacy and space that wilder places are able offer.’ Locations such as the Sun Valley in the US or the winemaking regions of Argentina and South Africa also offer an exhilarating mixture of outdoor pursuits and exceptional local produce. Staying inland doesn’t even have to mean being away from the water: buyers can find a dazzling range of dramatic lakes and river valleys from Italy to Norway without having to leave Europe.

On the beach

Antigua From $5 million On an island famous for its beaches, this crescent of Antiguan coral sand may be the most perfect of them all. Spread over 132 acres of oceanfront land surrounded by lush greenery, with a soaring peninsula of cliffs at one end, Rosewood Half Moon Bay will include a biodynamic farm, a cliffside cocktail lounge and a Rosewood spa; the main hotel opens next year. The property includes an array of private plots and 25 architect-designed beach villas, the larger of which open out straight onto the sand. Sphere Estates (020–3617 1360; www. sphereestates.com)

CLI310.cli_sea_country.indd 46

17/06/2021 12:31

Mauritius From $10.4 million Beachside property in Mauritius is hard to come by, so these spectacular waterfront villas are a special find. Only six five- and six-bedroom properties are being built, to an exacting standard, within the beautifully appointed One & Only resort. They will offer state-of-the-art fixtures and fittings, private pools, shaded terraces and secluded gardens. Owners will have access to the famous hotel’s extensive amenities, from the luxury spa to the concierge service. Sphere Estates (020–3617 1360; www. sphereestates.com)

Australia AUS$4.5 million Located on the exclusive Bederra Island, about 2½ miles off the coast of northern Queensland, Jewel of the Reef is a one-off tropical haven. Built discreetly into a private beach, this two-bedroom property has an open-plan design featuring an expansive covered deck floating above a natural granite tidal pool. This is a perfect base for explorers: owners can swim, snorkel or scuba into the coral wonderland below, kayak to secluded coves for a picnic or spend all day sailing among tropical islands. Christie’s International Real Estate (00 61 02 8340 3406; www.christiesrealestate.com) British Virgin Islands $19.8 million Hidden away behind layers of lush landscaping on Virgin Gorda— the prettiest island in the BVI— Aquamare comprises three elegant five-bedroom villas right on the beach. Built using local stone, rich hardwoods and travertine marble, these 8,000sq ft properties have incredible 30ft vaulted ceilings, exceptional indoor and outdoor dining options and waterfront infinity pools. Knight Frank (020–3925 9265; www. knightfrank.com) and Sotheby’s International Realty (001 284 340 5555; www.sothebysrealty.com) 47

CLI310.cli_sea_country.indd 47

17/06/2021 12:31

Beach vs countryside

France €20 million This elegant waterfront villa has been built on a plot of about half an acre to ensure privacy and seclusion, yet is only minutes from buzzing St Tropez. The main property offers generous accommodation that includes six large bedroom suites and beautifully designed reception areas. A modern extension has floor-to-ceiling windows that make the most of the panoramic sea views; there is also a caretaker’s apartment and a boat garage with direct access to the water. Christie’s International Real Estate (00 33 04 9497 9797; www.christiesrealestate.com)

In the countryside

Wyoming $7.5 million An incredible 430 acres of land has been divided into only eight plots at Vogel Hill in Wyoming, one of the last great wildernesses in America. The owners of Ranch No 4 will be able to build their dream property on 35 acres of partly wooded land with views to the majestic Tetons (as well as having access to more than 100 acres of shared private land). Owners can spend their time fishing, climbing, river rafting, riding, exploring hundreds of miles of hiking trails or skiing at Jackson Hole; the local wildlife includes bison, moose, bears and wolves. Sotheby’s International Realty (001 307 690 8156; www.jhsir.com)

Argentina From $100,000 Set amid 1,500 acres of acclaimed vineyards in the foothills of the Andes, The Vines of Mendoza offers plots for private vineyard estates and re-sales of one- and two-bedroom properties in the beautiful Uco Valley. The homes feature cosy fireplaces, vast bathrooms, elegant kitchens and private decks and those buying larger plots can build a house of their own design. Owners have access to everything this superb resort has to offer, including fishing, riding, spa treatments and cooking lessons, as well as a world-class team of consultant winemakers. Sphere Estates (020–3617 1360; www.sphereestates.com)

CLI310.cli_sea_country.indd 48

17/06/2021 12:32

Switzerland Price on application Located in the village of Ovronnaz, on the south side of the Bernese Alps, Les Dzardis is a spectacular mountain retreat with panoramic views of the Rhone Valley. Recently updated, the chalet boasts four huge bedrooms, light-filled reception rooms with vaulted ceilings, a sauna/gym, an outdoor Jacuzzi and a separate two-bedroom guesthouse. For the summer months, there are miles of hiking and mountain biking trails nearby; in winter, there is access to some of the finest skiing in Europe. Savills International (020–7016 3753; www.savills.com)

France €6.9 million Hidden away in the verdant hills behind Nice, the beautifully restored 17th-century Château Germaine boasts six large bedroom suites and several grand reception rooms. Outside, extensive terraces offer panoramic views of the entire Var valley and the gardens feature a heated pool, a bar and dining area and a pétanque court. The grounds extend to 170 acres and are peppered with olive trees; further accommodation on the estate is available within a caretaker’s house, a studio and a farmhouse. Knight Frank (020–7861 1139; www.knightfrank.com)

South Africa R53,000,000 A modern masterpiece built into the hills of the Western Cape, Bohemian Rhapsody makes the most of its fantastic location. With a vast 26,900sq ft of interior space, accommodation is spread over four levels, with four bedroom suites all offering incredible views, a stylish kitchen with private terrace, plus a wine cellar, home cinema, and a fitness and wellness suite. Outside, the expansive terraces are perfect for entertaining. Sotheby’s International Realty (00 27 83 702 5460; www.sothebysrealty.com) 49

CLI310.cli_sea_country.indd 49

17/06/2021 12:32

LEGGETT IMMOBILIER

LUXURY HOMES FOR SALE IN FRANCE

VAR Ref: 108298 €560,000 Character 7 bedroom house with superb view of the village of Callian, swimming pool and parking.

DORDOGNE Ref: 109753 €583,000 Lovely 6 bedroom house with large garden, swimming pool, double garage and a fabulous view.

GIRONDE Ref: 105607 €1,294,650 Elegant 8 bedroom house with 7 hectares of vineyard, gîte, outbuildings and garage.

CALVADOS Ref: 101395 €620,000 6 Bedroom house with 4 gîtes, swimming pool, parking and outbuildings.

DEUX SEVRES Ref: 118704 €742,000 6 Bedroom house with indoor swimming pool, outbuildings, garage and parking.

PYRÉNÉES-ATLANTIQUES Ref: 103353 € 795,000 Exceptional 7 bedroom house with swimming pool, parking, garage and outbuildings.

HAUTE SAONE Ref: T135323 €636,000 Authentic 6 bedroom French Manor with garden, outbuildings, garage and parking.

GARD Ref: 88152 €1,279,000 Romanesque 7 bedroom villa with superb views of Provence, gîte, swimming pool, garage, parking and outbuildings.

HAUTE VIENNE Ref: 94000 €667,800 Unique 6 bedroom house with a garden of 300 m2, swimming pool, games room, gîte, and parking.

www.leggettprestige.com +33 (0)5 53 60 84 88 prestige@leggett.fr

~ Casablanca ~

‘Casablanca’ is a luxurious 5 bedroom, 5 reception, 4 bathroom villa in Andalucia, situated one hour from Seville and Malaga, with more than 500m2 of liveable space on a 10,000m2 plot. Featuring a luxury pool, 3 terraces, 3 patios, lush vegetation including olive, orange and lemon trees, and a covered BBQ area, the house overlooks endless olive groves. Shops, restaurants, and supermarkets are within a 10 minute drive, and the nearby high-speed ‘AVE’ train can whisk you to Madrid in only 3 hours. It is the ultimate hide-away oasis in which to decompress from a hectic life. Euros 950,000

rbiancardi@openvistaglobal.com

Mallorca

Treasure island Arabella Youens revels in the history, food and culture of the largest Balearic island, now earning a justified reputation for sophistication uncomfortable for the Catholic population —the sea was regarded with suspicion; historically, it had been a source of trouble, in the form of pirate attacks and disease. As a result, sons of the wealthy were gifted land and fincas on the fertile plain in the centre of the island, with the daughters given parcels of seemingly worthless coastline.

In the 19th century, artistically minded people visited and spoke of the clarity of light By the time the first wave of hoteliers looked to exploit the natural beauty of that hitherto disregarded coastline, generations of British visitors had already discovered the wilder landscape dotted with Mediterranean oaks, olive and algaroba (carob) trees. The solid farmhouses built of marés, the indigenous stone, set against the bluegrey backdrop of the Tramuntana mountains (now UNESCO-protected), became home to a growing band of forasters (foreigners in the local Catalan dialect, a word that also

Above: A five-bedroom finca near Pollensa. €2.8m. Above right: Irresistibly clear seas mean Mallorca is valued as never before. Facing page: Joan Miró lived on the island

stretches to encompass mainland Spaniards), who adopted the island as their own. This started in the 19th century, when a steady stream of affluent or artistically minded people visited Mallorca and spoke about the clarity of its light. The Austrian Archduke Ludwig Salvator was an early adopter; he championed the wildlife of the island long before the theme of conservation was widely understood. And although George Sand never repeated her miserable winter spent with Frédéric Chopin in the hill town of Valldemossa, others settled there happily. The poet Robert Graves was urged to go in 1929 on the recommendation of his doctor, following ongoing problems with shellshock, and made the island his home. He moved to Deià, a mountain village surrounded by wild olive trees, pines and rosemary, with valleys plunging sharply into the Mediterranean. He and his family entertained a stream of notable guests, including Alec Guiness and Ava Gardner. Today, it’s possible to visit

Alamy

VER the years, Mallorca has shown contrasting facets to different people, but its transformation from a symbol of the ravages of sun-and-sangria package holidays to a sophisticated Mediterranean destination is—reality television shows aside—well under way. The dated mid-market hotels that blighted the beaches near Palma are increasingly being torn down or updated (even the beach at Magaluf has been rebranded Calvià Beach) and townhouses and farmhouses across the island are being converted into elegant luxury or boutique hotels. The largest of the Balearics, Mallorca also has the biggest airport, with the most frequent year-round flights to all European capitals. It has, at the last count, 17 international schools and high-speed fibre-optic broadband covers 82% of homes. But its lure goes far beyond such practical considerations: no other island in the Mediterranean can match it for culture, landscapes and cuisine. Tourism made the former agricultural island rich. In a quirk of fate, it was the daughters of Mallorca’s landowning families who benefited first. Before the onset of mass tourism in the 1950s—and, with it, the arrival of bikinis and behaviour that was

CLI310.cli_mallorca.indd 52

17/06/2021 12:27

Alamy

La Casa de Robert Graves, a museum established in the family’s former home. Despite vast numbers of forasters now living on the island, many of the rural towns and villages have held on to their traditional fiestas. Pollensa’s La Patrona, held at the end of July, is widely regarded as one of the key cultural highlights of Mallorca; it centres on a mock battle between the Moors and Christians. The island’s capital, Palma, has been transformed into a culinary and cultural hub, which is best explored on foot through labyrinthine cobbled streets and passages, which give way to squares or tree-lined avenues. Of all the neighbourhoods, Santa Catalina, once a working-class district, has dressed itself up into a boho-chic, food-loving centre based around a covered food market. Mallorca has more than 70 vineyards and dozens of olive oils. Restaurants—

including nine with Michelin stars—serve food from around the world, but it’s those that have local chefs at the helm, who use fresh homegrown produce such as almonds and oranges, that are increasingly popular. Indeed, it’s said that Louis XIV would only eat oranges from the groves that had been dug out of the mountainside above. Down on the coast, prawns from the port town of Sóller are considered to be some of the finest in the world. But there’s more to local culture than food. Art is a particular pleasure. Palma harbours the museum of Joan Miró, who spent his final years in Mallorca; it stands on the site of his old studio. Es Baluard is the museum of modern and contemporary art and Galería Pelaires is the oldest and most distinguished gallery in town. Across the island, Pollensa is home to the museum of local artist Dionís Bennàssar.

A defining marker in the sand, showing how much the island has turned its back on mass tourism, will be the unveiling of the new Four Seasons hotel in Formentor. Set on Mallorca’s northernmost tip and the erstwhile favourite of Charlie Chaplin, Peter Ustinov and Churchill, it’s tipped to become the most luxurious local hotel when it opens in 2023.

Live there

The northern market town of Pollensa, with its busy calendar of festivals, pretty streets and lively central square, has long attracted buyers from across Europe. With a dramatic mountain backdrop, this five-bedroom, restored finca stands in more than 12 acres of gardens and grounds, which have organic certification for growing fruit and vegetables. The house comes with an all-important rental licence. €2.8 million through Engel & Völkers (00 34 97 189 7700; www.engelvoelkers.com)

CLI310.cli_mallorca.indd 53

17/06/2021 12:27

Untitled-1 1

0 /06/2021 12:5

CL WP.indd 1

16/06/2021 13:53

LUXURY COUNTRY ESTATE SOTOGRANDE COSTA DEL SOL SPAIN This stunning 8 bedroom Spanish farm set in 16 hectares of beautiful Andalusian countryside is just 3 kilometers from the International School and amenities of Sotogrande. Renovated to include all neccesities for modern living without compromising the architectural cortijo style. A 3 bedroom guest cottage, 2 bedroom staff cottage, 7 stables and separate pool with BBQ pavilion are just some of the facilities to enhance the wonderful lifestyle in rural Southern Spain. For more information: BM Property consultants T: +34 956 785 092 Mob: +34 626 01 05 84

Untitled-6 1

15/06/2021 14:44

THE HOME OF PREMIUM PROPERTY O U R PR OPE R T Y PAGE S A R E W H E R E T H E F I N E S T HO U SE S A R E SHOWC A SE D T O A R E F I N E D, W E A LT H Y R E A DE R SH I P I N B O T H T H E U K A N D OV E R SE A S

COUNTRY LIFE is where buyers search for their dream For property advertising information please contact Oliver Pearson: oliver.pearson@futurenet.com – 07961 800887

CL WP.indd 1

16/06/2021 13:55

An Englishman abroad

A slice of Germany with a side of England

ENDED up in Germany by chance. I have always had an interest in antiques and country houses and my poor father would wait outside with our two labradors as I rummaged around shops or country houses. After school, I was interested in pursuing a career in art, but my father, a trained artist, was rather sceptical and suggested I’d do something else for a while, so I joined the crew of the QEII to see the world. During that time, I met one of my two current business partners, who is German. We came up with the idea of opening an upmarket tea and coffee shop. Initially, we thought of Bath or Cheltenham, but my business partner had been offered empty premises in the town where he had grown up in Bavaria. I didn’t speak a word of the language, but we flew out, took a look around and I said: ‘What the heck, let’s give it a go.’ When you are younger, it is easier to make such important decisions. Age can make us over-cautious. We based the teashop’s decoration on the Victorian period. It all came from England— we even had a washing line where we pegged Victorian clothing and underwear. The concept was hugely successful. Later, I met my other business partner, another Anglophile German, and we opened more tea and coffee shops in Munich. The German idea of English food is fish and chips or something cold and inedible, but they do believe we serve the best breakfast and afternoon tea. German cakes are not as sweet as their English equivalent, so we adapted traditional recipes. That said, German food has changed enormously since we opened our teahouse. When I first came here, it was very traditional: few vegetables, meat with a sauce and almost non-existent puddings. Over the years, much as in England, people have become more

CLI310.cli_spectator.indd 56

open to influences from other countries: basic dishes have been replaced with Italian and Asian food and the English comfort food we serve, such as shepherd’s pie or salmon fish cakes, has been surprisingly well received.

There’s a lot of culture and it’s very accessible; it is still affordable to go to the opera I think, if you’re English, Germany is one of easiest European countries to live in, as, in many ways, the German mentality and culture is very similar to our own. When the English think of Germany, they usually think of Oktoberfest, Lederhosen, sausages and beer, but there’s another side to the country. There’s a lot of culture and it’s very accessible, possibly more accessible to the average person than in England. It is still affordable to go to concerts or the opera. Munich offers a wide selection of museums and galleries, showcasing contemporary and classical art. It has an almost Italian feel—people joke it’s Italy’s most northern city—not only because much of the architecture was modelled on Florence, but also because of the outdoor culture, with many coffee shops, bars and terraces. Life here doesn’t seem to be quite as hectic as in England. When I return there, particularly to London, people are always rushing around. They don’t seem to sit down and have a pot of tea any more, merely grab a coffee to go. As a child, I spent a lot of time with my grandmother and I was always told ‘You don’t eat or drink while walking’, so the idea of racing around with a beaker of coffee

is quite alien to me. It’s almost paradoxical, but the Germans still find time in the afternoon to sit down and have tea or coffee with a sandwich or a cake. Another thing that sets the English apart from the Germans is our passion for history and tradition. As a schoolboy, I would use my 50p pocket money to go shopping for antiques. England is intrinsically linked with its past and almost everyone has some interest in that, but, in Germany, there is a greater trend for contemporary design. This is partly to do with availability. In England, if you shop in the right places, buy at the right auctions and have a good eye, you can still find fine furniture with a lot of character, without spending a fortune. In Germany, most antique furniture is very expensive and difficult to find. The majority of people don’t place quite as much importance on the interiors of their home as in England and entertaining at home is not as popular among the Germans either. Especially in cities, most people tend to meet in cafes or restaurants. In urban areas, renting is the norm and doesn’t have any stigma attached. We rent an apartment in the city, but recently bought a historic house in the countryside outside Munich. Having lived in Germany for more than 30 years, I am still English to the backbone and the house and garden are my little bit of England. People who come to stay say that it feels like visiting Britain’s last colonial outpost. Jonathan Phelps is the cofounder of Victorian House, an English restaurant, cafe and tearoom in Munich, open for breakfast, brunch, lunch and afternoon tea

Alamy

Jonathan Phelps examines the similarities and differences in the food and culture between his home and his adopted country

17/06/2021 12:28

The Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings

For Sale €745,000

Founded by William Morris, the SPAB protects the historic environment from decay, damage and demolition. It responds to threats to old buildings, trains building professionals, craftspeople, homeowners and volunteers and gives advice about maintenance and repairs. Since 1877 countless buildings have been saved for future generations.

Business or Lifestyle Est. Rural Tourism Home Working Work life Balance Close to amenities

4.2 hectares 3 houses with pool Alentejo, Portugal 00351 963961388

Drawing of St Dunstan-in-the-West by SPAB Scholar Ptolomy Dean

www.montedaquinta.eu www.idealista.pt/en/imovel/30953912/

Information about maintaining your home is available through events, courses, lectures, publications and telephone advice. To support our work why not join the SPAB? Members receive a quarterly magazine, our list of historic properties for sale and access to our regional activities.

www.spab.org.uk

020 7377 1644

A charitable company limited by guarantee registered in England & Wales. Company no: 5743962 Charity no: 1113753 37 Spital Square, London E1 6DY

CL WP.indd 1

ISLE OF MAN

Clay Shooting Range in 30 acres of land with lovely countryside views, plus 2 five bedroom houses and weatherproof shooting facilities. This private range was developed, built and run (for many years) by one man. Built in the early 90s it has earth banking, mature trees and a full range of skeet and sporting targets. There is a large clubhouse extension to the main building with facilities for catering for large groups. Although in a rural setting, it is only approx 15 minutes from Douglas, the main Island town, and the airport.

Price: £1,900,000

Keyword: RAMS0890

Further details from Neil Taggart at Chrystals Estate Agents www.chrystals.co.im Tel: 01624 623778 John Quilliam will meet you at the Airport or Sea Terminal, by arrangement.

17/06/2021 10:14

Property market

Penny Churchill

Better than ever Two glorious estates have been lovingly brought back from the brink

ODAY sees the launch onto the market of one of Cornwall’s bestkept secrets, the secluded, 246-acre Pengreep estate, between Gwennap and Ponsanooth in south Cornwall, which is for sale for the first time in its history, through joint agents Jonathan Cunliffe in Falmouth (01326 617447) and Lodge & Thomas in Truro (01872 272722). The agents quote a guide price of £7 million for the estate, which sits in its own woodland valley close to the towns of Truro, Falmouth and Redruth, and within seven miles of both the north and south coasts of Cornwall. Its focal point is Grade I-listed Pengreep House, originally a farmhouse built in the early 18th century by the Beauchamp family, enlarged by them in the mid 18th century and further extended in about 1865 by John Williams, whose grandmother was a Beauchamp. Although the house dates from three

The interiors of Pengreep House are mainly 18th century and in need of some restoration

120

CLI310.prop_market.indd 120

17/06/2021 16:12

Find the best properties at countrylife.co.uk

Left: Grade I-listed Pengreep Estate, in 246 acres of south Cornish countryside, is being sold for the first time in its history. £7m. Above: Pipewell Hall in Northamptonshire. £3.5m

main periods, its 1967 listing maintains that ‘this is a predominantly mid-18th-century house and as such is a fine and complete example, retaining three virtually complete rooms of its earlier phase and with good quality circa 1865 additions’. When Joseph Beauchamp died in 1818, the property was advertised for lease as: ‘The mansion house of Pengreep, together with the coach house, walled gardens, beautiful ponds, pleasure grounds, plantations and about 120 customary acres of meadow land, with several cottages for servants or labourers: the whole in high order and condition and fit for the residence of a large and genteel family.’ This part of Cornwall had been a centre for mining since prehistoric times and 17thcentury Gwennap was reputedly part of ‘the richest square mile in the world’. Successive generations of the Williams family were prominent owners of mines, smelting works

and quarries and John Williams’s wealth was reflected in the splendour of Pengreep House and its grounds. To the north-east of the house are the foundations of a large Victorian conservatory that once overlooked formal gardens, now a plantation of camellias, magnolias and rhododendrons. Pengreep’s glory days were long gone when, in 1989, its present owner, Ben Mead, abandoned a career as a motorcycling journalist in London and returned to his Cornish roots with the aim of reviving the struggling estate. With Britain sliding into recession, the outlook at the time wasn’t great— a fact hammered home in 1990, when a serious gale felled almost 200 trees on the estate. Undeterred, Mr Mead worked hands-on with a band of skilled Cornish restoration specialists on a systematic renovation of the entire property. Over the years, nearly all the estate houses have been re-roofed and weather-proofed, with ‘boring but important’ elements of infrastructure, such as drives, access, farm buildings, cattle tracks, drainage, private water supplies, ponds, waterfalls and sluice gates, being repaired or overhauled. Pengreep House, which has starred as the location for television adaptations of several Rosamunde Pilcher novels, has been re-roofed in recent years, although the rest of the building needs refurbishing. It offers 10,000sq ft of living space on three floors,

including an entrance hall, three formal reception rooms, a wonderful old-fashioned kitchen overlooking the gardens and seven first-floor bedrooms, as well as six attic rooms and extensive cellars. Other estate houses refurbished in 2015 include Snookers, the former billiard room, now a charming one-bedroom apartment, and the converted former coach house, now a two-bedroom dwelling; Pengreep Barton, a detached three-bedroom stone farmhouse, has been partly refurbished. Ripe for conversion are the Fig House, a large detached brick building set in its own walled garden; the Georgian former stable block with its traditional bell tower; and the period four-bedroom Crosspost Farmhouse, which could be extended by integrating the adjacent stone barns. The once magnificent gardens and pleasure grounds at Pengreep, which now await an avid gardener to re-tame the present ‘wild abandon’, include a two-acre walled kitchen garden with the remains of a series of heated greenhouses and a series of four stream-fed ponds—some two acres of water in all—that not only provide a romantic setting for the house, but contain naturally stocked brown trout and are a haven for herons, kingfishers, wild mallard, geese and other wildfowl. As a Nuffield agricultural scholar, Pengreep’s owner was very much at home on the land, where he introduced modern methods of dairy farming and, from 2008

The Pengreep grounds now await an avid gardener to re-tame the present “wild abandon”

121

CLI310.prop_market.indd 121

17/06/2021 16:12

Property market

Pipewell Hall is Grade II-listed, offers some 10,000sq ft of living space, and sits in 40 acres of landscaped gardens and parkland

onwards, established organic farming on more than 170 acres of level or gently sloping land. The farm is also enrolled in a Countryside Stewardship Scheme that underwrites the capital cost of renovating the estate’s paddock fencing. Over in Northamptonshire, the sale of elegant, Grade II-listed Pipewell Hall at Pipewell, near Kettering, Northamptonshire, recalls the exuberant architecture of the era of Sir Christopher Wren, who began building St Paul’s Cathedral in 1675, the same year that William Herbert, 1st Marquess of Powis, built the Hall with stone taken from a Cistercian monastery suppressed by Henry VIII during the Dissolution. Selling agent Simon Hawkesley of Londonbased Mallory Irvine (020–7101 0765) seeks ‘offers in excess of £3.5m’ for the restored, late-Jacobean house, originally built on an H plan of coursed squared limestone, with a fish-scale tiled roof and stone stacked chimneys, and set in some 40 acres of landscaped gardens, parkland and pasture. The principal manor of the hamlet of Pipewell,

it stands hidden by woodland on the edge of a conservation area to the north-west of Kettering and east of Market Harborough in neighbouring Leicestershire. Owned by only five families since it was built, Pipewell Hall was acquired in 1921 by Samuel Janson Lloyd as a home for his 13 children. When he died in 1943, the house was inherited by his son, David Llewellen Lloyd, inventor of the famous Lloyd stalking rifle and a COUNTRY L IFE ‘National Treasure’, who had a much smaller family and had the West Wing demolished as ‘surplus to requirements’ in 1949. His wife, Evadne, shared her husband’s passion for rifle-making and glamorous sports and, together, they went stalking at Glencassley in the Highlands in the autumn, skiing at Gstaad in the winter and motored to Monte Carlo for the Grand Prix in the summer. Neither appear to have had any interest in domestic matters and, when Evadne died in 2003, aged 91, Pipewell Hall was in a parlous state of disrepair. It was acquired the following year by the Baker family, the current

vendors, who, between 2007 and 2011, undertook a complete overhaul of the house. The works included lifting, repairing and re-laying the entire roof structure, installing a new central heating system, reconfiguring the kitchen area to create a magnificent kitchen/ breakfast room, adding extra bathrooms, landscaping and more besides. The hall now offers some 10,000sq ft of living space on three floors, including four main reception rooms, a veranda, study and the kitchen/breakfast room on the ground floor; the master-bedroom suite, three further bedrooms and bathrooms on the first floor; with four/five bedrooms and four bathrooms on the floor above. It comes with five-bedroom Dormy House, currently split into two and let through local agents, a pretty gate lodge and a stable courtyard ideal for conversion to residential use. Outdoor amenities include a walled garden and swimming pool, plus an old tennis court, and the beautifully landscaped grounds, parkland and lakes provide the perfect backdrop to an idyllic wedding venue.

122

CLI310.prop_market.indd 122

17/06/2021 16:12

Properties of the week

Edited by Annunciata Elwes

In the swim of things Houses that’ll make you want to take your clothes off

North Yorkshire, excess £700,000 A private natural pool fed by a cascade worthy of a water nymph is attached to this sweet four/five-bedroom property in the hidden valley at Golden Grove, about 10 minutes from Whitby. Formerly owned by the Turnbull family—a big name in the golden age of shipbuilding—sandstone Beck Cottage has been created by merging two adjoining houses. It overlooks Cock Mill Beck and the kitchen opens directly onto a sun-dappled waterside terrace; a footbridge over the beck leads to another sitting area with lawns and wooded grounds along the beck with fishing rights. A further 51½ acres lies slightly to the east of the hamlet, including 4½ acres of paddocks and broadleaf woodlands criss-crossed by becks (more fishing potential) and monks trods—footpaths created by monks hundreds of years ago. Knight Frank (01423 535373) Co Durham, £1.2 million Just south of the village of Castleside on the edge of the North Pennines AONB, The Old Vicarage is in tip-top condition, with period features blending perfectly with more modern details, having been recently run as a private dining and wedding venue for up to 20 guests. There are six bedrooms, plus a one-bedroom Coach House, and the three-acre grounds, through which the house is accessed via a sweeping drive, include a beautiful lake with duck house and jetty. Sanderson Young (0191–223 3500)

124

CLI310.props_week.indd 124

17/06/2021 16:20

Properties of the week

Local heroes The new garden opener Illustration by Emma van Zeller

June is distraught after a gust of hot French wind from Storm Fleur sucked off all the petals from her ‘Princess Alexandra of Kent’ pink roses right on the eve of Deep Bedding’s open-gardens weekend. June is a disciple of Gertrude Jekyll’s block-planting methods and they looked so lovely, sharing a bed with deep purple Hidcote lavender. But how on earth did that garish orange gerbera make its way into her lovely clouds of snowy-white phlox? June’s husband, Bill, is not taking the whole thing seriously enough; distracted by the cricket, he’s missed a bit of lawn. He’s also forgotten to garnish the Pimm’s with the borage she has been raising. Little does he know that June’s going the whole NGS next year. KG

9000

Kent, £4.75 million Grade II-listed, Georgian and in handsome red brick, Fairseat House covers some 8,511sq ft, incorporating eight bedrooms, five bathrooms and five reception rooms. In the village of Fairseat, just under 10 miles from Sevenoaks, window seats, fireplaces and sash windows contrast well with an orangery, added by current owners, which has limestone floors and a woodburner. Further modernity can be found in the state-of-the-art kitchen and 60,000-litre rainwater capture and storage system. Two planning permissions—for an extra two bedrooms in the attic and a garage conversion— could perhaps be revived. Park-like lawns wrap around the house, bordered with rhododendrons, beeches, a cedar of Lebanon and an orchard, with space for a swimming pool and tennis court. Jackson-Stops (01732 740600)

Warwickshire, £3.95 million Avon Court’s glorious setting on a bend of the Avon—with private frontage, a mooring beside a lovely willow and dipping opportunities through the bull rushes on hot days—is hard to beat. Just outside Alveston village, which is about 15 minutes from Stratfordupon-Avon and was once home to J. B. Priestley, it has five bedrooms and dates to the 1930s with plenty of Arts-and-Crafts features to prove it. The beautifully landscaped gardens include a summerhouse and terrace and, in winter months, the indoor heated swimming pool should satisfy water babies. Hamptons (01789 430184)

126

CLI310.props_week.indd 126

17/06/2021 16:20