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Welcome to J.’s collection of fun and unusual latke recipes from our archives.
Over the years we’ve run plenty of potato latke recipes, but our recipe writers have also presented us with some pretty creative options for days when you want a break from the ubiquitous potato.
Whether you’re tempted to make them at home this year or just want to flip through and see what our writers came up with, we hope you enjoy this little archival collection of recipes from the 1970s to the 2020s.
Maya
Mirsky, Sta Writer
Dear Latke Afficionado,
Thank you for reading J. The Jewish News of Northern California!
As you can see from this recipe book, J. is a resource connecting you to the larger Jewish community.
Each day we publish breaking news, investigations, features and profiles, obituaries, reviews of art and culture, and of course recipes and restaurant news. Make sure you stay current on all we do by getting our free online newsletters or text messages here: jweekly.com/connect
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Sincerely,
Jo Ellen Green Kaiser, CEO
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Jo Ellen Green Kaiser
Potato latkes, an invented tradition
RACHEL B. GROSS
German Jews brought the tradition to the United States in the mid-19th century, and latkes have only increased in popularity ever since.
Although we might think that the potato latke is timeless, Jews have been frying up potato pancakes for Hanukkah for a relatively short time. “The Maccabees never saw a potato, much less a potato pancake,” writes the great Jewish food historian, the late Gil Marks. And yet the smell, the taste — and perhaps the grated knuckles — of fried potato pancakes are a central part of the Hanukkah experience for many Jews today.
Both white potatoes and sweet potatoes originated in the Americas, and Europeans did not encounter them before colonization. As Marks traces in his “Encyclopedia of Jewish Food,” the white potato first made its way to Europe around 1570. At first, Europeans were extremely suspicious of the tuber, considering it poisonous or even a source of leprosy.
When they did start planting potatoes, they fed them to livestock. The French turned to eating potatoes during a famine in the 1790s, and the Germans joined them in subsequent decades. But even as more people started eating potatoes in Western Europe and in the United States, elites looked down upon them as “poor person’s food.”
Eastern Europeans, who ate a variety of other starches, did not consider the potato until they suffered from a series of crop failures in Ukraine and Poland in 1839 and 1840. Once potatoes began to be considered fit for human consumption, however, they quickly replaced buckwheat and legumes as staples of the Eastern European diet. And Eastern European Jews, it turned out, loved potatoes even more than their non-Jewish neighbors.
According to Marks, there are nearly a dozen Yiddish names for potato — not for different varieties of potatoes, but derived from different linguistic regional influences, including bulbe or boulbe in Lithuania and Northern Poland; karfotfl in Central Europe, from the German; and kartoshke in Eastern Europe, from Slavic languages.
As Marks recounts, in the medieval period, fried foods and dairy foods became popular for Hanukkah, referencing the story of the miraculous oil that burned for eight nights in the menorah in the Temple and the tale of Judith, who fed Assyrian general Holofernes cheese before killing him, saving Jerusalem from destruction. Soft cheese pancakes, which combined the two traditions, were especially popular Hanukkah foods in Southern and Eastern Europe.
“And then the potato arrived,” writes Marks. Central and Eastern European Jews adopted potato pancakes as a Hanukkah dish that was cheaper than wheat or cheese pancakes. German Jews brought the tradition to the United States in the mid-19th century, and latkes have only increased in popularity ever since. It is hard to imagine that only two hundred years ago, Jews had never considered eating a potato
latke for Hanukkah.
I teach a course on the history of Christmas and Hanukkah in the United States at S.F. State, and the first thing that I teach students is historian Eric Hobsbawm’s concept of “invented traditions.” These are the traditions that seem like they go back to antiquity but are actually fairly recent constructions. The power of invented traditions is that their illusory long histories make them seem more authentic. Potato latkes are such a tradition. For many of us, they have become central to the stories we tell ourselves about Hanukkah. When we make or eat or smell latkes, many of us recall family gatherings and celebrations with friends on Hanukkah in years past, the stories about our lives that help us understand who we are and where we come from.
A J. ad from 1998. We knew how important latkes are for a relationship.
One time when I was teaching about the development of holiday traditions, a student asked me how I could do the work of unraveling holiday practices and still celebrate those holidays. She felt that learning the holiday histories might extinguish some of their magic. On the contrary, I think that learning how quickly new rituals become meaningful can add to that magic. How eager we are to tell stories about ourselves and our ancestors and how well we can incorporate new traditions into old ones is the delight of human creativity.
This year as you prepare latkes or other holiday foods, perhaps you will think of the ways these foods connect you to ancestors, or perhaps you will turn to some innovative new recipes, adding to the long history of Jewish culinary innovation.
Rachel B. Gross is Associate Professor and John and Marcia Goldman Chair of American Jewish Studies in the Department of Jewish Studies at San Francisco State University.
BUCKWHEAT LATKES
RUTH SIRKIS | 1971
Hanukkah is a happy holiday on the Jewish calendar. It is the time of year that the family and friends get together to light candles, sing Hanukkah songs and exchange gifts. The foods that are served add to the warm atmosphere.
Hot latkes are the pillar of a Hanukkah evening and they are eaten without too much formality, which adds to the fun. The variety of latkes (pancakes) is big, with potato latkes leading the list. But just mention buckwheat latkes to those for whom Russia is their “old country“ and they will get starry-eyed.
The real “mevinim” (connoisseurs) eat them with roast duck and its flavorful gravy, but it can be enjoyed as a side dish with any roast. The delicate pancakes soak up the juices and are delicious. Buckwheat latkes can also be served as any other latkes — with sour cream or applesauce.
Yields 12-16 latkes
1 cake fresh yeast (0.6 oz.)
1 tsp. sugar
½ cup warm water
2 cups water
1½ cups buckwheat flour (or regular buckwheat ground in a blender)
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
3 eggs
3 tsp. oil oil for frying
Soften the yeast in warm water and let rest for five minutes.
Combine the flour, buckwheat flour and salt in a bowl. (If you cannot get buckwheat flour, buy regular buckwheat and grind it in an electric blender.) Pour the yeast in the center of the flour. Add sugar and water. Stir lightly and let rest for about twenty minutes in a warm corner of your kitchen. The mixture should almost double in volume and look bubbly. Add the eggs and oil and mix well until a smooth thin batter forms. Grease a six-inch skillet well. Heat and pour in about one-quarter cup of the batter. Tilt the skillet to spread the batter. Fry until the top looks dry. Using a metal spatula, turn the latke over to fry on the other side. Continue until you finish all the batter. You may have to grease the skillet again and regulate the heat. Turn the pancakes on a plate and serve hot. The latkes taste the best when eaten right after frying, but if you have to prepare them ahead they can be re-warmed in the oven, wrapped in aluminum foil.
MAKE THE LEGENDARY LATKE, IN CHEESE
BETTY NEWMAN | 1986
Hanukkah latkes have been distinctive delicacies for centuries and there is hardly a Jewish cookbook without at least one recipe for those tempting pancakes.
According to the Code of Jewish law, dairy dishes customarily are served during Hanukkah to commemorate the heroism of Judith as described in the Apocrypha. Associated in legend with the Maccabean revolt, Judith gained an audience with the enemy general and purposefully served him salty dairy foods at a banquet. After eating an abundance of wine and food, he fell into a drunken stupor and Judith killed him. Learning of their leader’s death, the soldiers panicked and fled. Thus, the Jews were saved. Dairy dishes, Hanukkah fare by virtue of tradition and legend, serve as a reminder of Judith’s valor and Maccabean triumph.
Cheese latkes incorporating both dairy products and oil have remained popular for the past 1,000 years, and, historically, may have preceded the potato latke. In Eastern Europe, the potato was cheap and available, and became a ready substitute for cheese in the Jewish community in the 18th and 19th centuries. Potato latkes therefore became the most common type, but other ingredients can make the latke just as tempting and mouth-watering. Most important: Make sure participants have a hearty appetite!
Yields 12 cheese latkes
2 eggs, separated
¼ cup water
2 Tbs. sugar
1 tsp. salt
2 cups cottage cheese
¾ cup flour
½ cup raisins (optional)
Beat together yolks, water, sugar and salt until blended. Stir in cheese, add flour. Stir until well blended. Mix in raisins. Beat whites until stiff, fold into cheese mixture. By spoonfuls, drop batter into ⅛-¼-inch hot oil; flatten with spatula or back of spoon. Brown on both sides till golden; drain well on paper towel (add more oil as needed for frying). Serve with sour cream, apple sauce or preserves.
Creating a Legacy
As founder of a firm that focuses on estate planning and elder law, Gene Osofsky is frequently asked by clients to include legacy gifts in their planning.
So when he and his wife, Hilary, a retired attorney, started planning for their own retirement, they realized that it was their turn to become their own best clients.
Legacy giving can be the best part of estate planning. As you look back on all you have accomplished, legacy planning gives you a chance to ensure that what you care about most will continue into the future. These gifts help charities plan ahead, knowing that there will be resources to sustain their work. And legacy giving has the added benefit of providing tax benefits not only to your heirs, but, when appreciated assets are being sold, to you as well.
When creating their own estate plan, the Osofskys had several of these goals in mind. “We wanted to find a way to minimize taxes on the sale of appreciated assets,” says Hilary, “while allowing us to divert our gains to charitable purposes instead.”
Legacy planning need not be complex. If you are giving some or all of your assets to one or more charities, you can do so as a bequest through your will or trust by simply specifying that you want to give your named charity a particular dollar amount or percentage of your estate.
Sometimes, it can be easier to leave “extras” in your estate to charity without a will or trust, as in the case of 401(k)s, IRAs, brokerage and bank accounts, and life insurance policies. These assets usually have built-in beneficiary designations
HOW TO GIVE A LEGACY GIFT
in the account documents themselves that require nothing more to take effect.
With his expertise, Gene knows that there are many ways to leave a legacy gift to charity. The Osofskys wanted to be able to realize a benefit from their assets, reduce the tax on their gain, and thereby leave a larger gift to their favorite charities. For them, the solution was a Charitable Remainder Unitrust, an irrevocable trust that lets you realize significant tax benefits that come from donating appreciated assets to charity while enabling you to draw an annual income for life.
The Osofskys with their grandchildren
The Osofskys wanted to honor their strong Jewish and Bay Area identity, so they chose J. The Jewish News of Northern California as one of the recipients of their new Unitrust. As the Osofskys noted, “Supporting J. is a high priority for us because it is an integral part of the infrastructure of the Jewish community.”
The Osofskys’ legacy will become one of the keystone gifts in J. ‘s new endowment fund. With this bequest, the Osofskys have helped ensure that the tradition of Jewish journalism will continue long into the future.
• Name the charity in your will or estate plan as a recipient of a set percentage or dollar amount of your residual estate.
• Designate the charity as a beneficiary to a life insurance policy, retirement fund or IRA.
• Make a bequest of real estate, assets or other personal property to the charity.
• Make sure to let the charity know you have included them in your estate!
RICE FLOUR FRITOLES FROM GREECE
BETTY NEWMAN | 1987
It’s latke time again. As Hanukkah approaches, we recall the Maccabees, who re-established an independent Jewish state by defeating the Syrian Greeks in 165 BCE; the Maccabees had driven their enemy from the Temple in Jerusalem and rededicated the Temple God.
Today, symbolic foods are served as a reminder of events before the holiday. In truth, hardly a Jewish household is without latkes. One might say they are a must during Hanukkah. Everyone has his or her own special taste for latkes — with or without onions, more or less pepper, and a preference for one garnish or another (whether it be applesauce, jam, sour cream or sprinkles of sugar).
Progress has brought latkes a long way from grating by hand to the electric mixer, and, finally, to the food processor. They are at their best served straight from the pan, although they can be kept warm in the oven. Recipes vary around the world, with the common denominator being the oil in which the latkes are fried.
Yields 12
2 eggs, separated
1½ cups rice flour
1 Tbs. sugar
pinch of salt
1 cup plain yogurt (more if necessary)
½ cup milk (more if necessary)
4 Tbs. olive oil for frying
Beat yolks until creamy. Mix dry ingredients together in large bowl and stir in beaten egg yolks with yogurt and milk. Batter should be fairly thick; add more yogurt and/or milk as needed.
Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Batter should be the consistency of sour cream. Add more milk if necessary.
Heat oil in heavy frying pan and pour batter in pan to make small pancakes of desired size. Cook and brown well on both sides. Serve hot sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, syrup, honey or jam and sour cream.
APPLE LATKES
BETTY NEWMAN | 1990
Take a glance at any Jewish cookbook and you’ll see how popular apples are in Jewish cookery. In particular, Eastern European Jews incorporated apples into their recipes, using them in everything from baked apples to apple kuchen. In between they would make delicious strudel, compote and coffee cake.
Since we are celebrating Hanukkah, here’s a recipe that is a variation of the traditional potato latke, substituting apples and topping the traditional pancakes with sugar and cinnamon or sour cream.
Yields 12
2 eggs
3 Tbs. sugar
½ tsp. salt
1 tsp. cinnamon
½ cup water
3 cups chopped apples
½ cup flour (unsifted)
1 tsp. grated lemon rind
Beat eggs until light and fluffy. Mix in sugar, salt, cinnamon and water until well blended. Stir in apple, flour and grated lemon rind; mix well. Heat oil in skillet and drop about 1/4 cup apple mixture in skillet. Flatten slightly and fry on each side until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Combine 1/3 cup sugar and 1 tsp. cinnamon to sprinkle over latkes.
LATKES IN A PAN
ZILLAH BAHAR | 1993
Two years ago I threw a Hanukkah party for which I made a zillion latkes. The smell of cooking oil permeated everything in the house, including me, and by the evening’s end I felt that I, too, had become a glistening latke. Worse yet, by the time my little pancakes had made their way onto the serving platter, they had developed an appalling green tinge.
No one died, and actually the latkes tasted pretty good. Nevertheless, I swore then that I would never again fry latkes, and I have honored that oath. That’s not to say that latkes are no longer part of my culinary repertoire or among my gustatory passions. I’ve just developed less unctuous and faster ways to make them.
In my kitchen, latkes are baked.
The recipe that follows produces a grand golden cake you’ll be proud to serve. Incidentally, I recommend the Yukon Gold potato for latke purposes. If that’s not available, another firm, thinskinned variety will do. You may want to add a couple of tablespoons of cranberry sauce left over from Thanksgiving to the applesauce to make the traditional latke topping more interesting.
Yields 10 servings
2½ to 3 medium or 2 large baking potatoes
2 eggs
2 Tbs. onion, chopped fine
½ cup flour
¼ cup shortening, such as vegetable oil, melted butter or shmaltz
1 Tbs. lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Grate washed potatoes, including the skin, if preferred. Stir in eggs, onion, flour, shortening, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Generously grease large, well-seasoned cast iron skillet or non-stick baking pan with additional shortening. Pour potato batter into skillet and bake for 45 minutes or until golden brown. Check the center for doneness as you would a cake. Cut into wedges and serve with applesauce or other fruit topping and sour cream, if desired.
ZUCCHINI LATKES
LOUISE FISZER | 2000
Yields 16
“Designer latkes” — that’s what some people call anything other than what I call classic potato latkes.
4 cups zucchini, coarsely grated (about 2 pounds)
1 small onion, chopped or grated
1 egg, lightly beaten
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup heavy cream
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. salt
⅛ tsp. cayenne
½ tsp. dried oregano
½ to 1 cup oil, for frying
Parmesan cheese for serving
Squeeze out as much moisture as possible from zucchini and combine with remaining ingredients except oil. In a large frying pan, heat over medium-high heat about ⅓ cup oil until hot.
Drop 3 Tbs. zucchini mixture into pan to form each pancake. Fry until golden brown, about 4 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels and keep warm in a 250-degree oven. Serve with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, if desired.
ROMAN-INSPIRED CACIO E PEPE LATKES
MICAH SIVA | 2022
My ultimate comfort food is a creamy dish of Cacio e Pepe Pasta, a Roman dish of cheese, pasta and freshly ground black pepper, made velvety smooth with pasta water. There is something irresistibly comforting about savory cheese, especially when paired with crispy fried potatoes. Enter the latke.
Unlike traditional potato pancakes, these Cacio e Pepe latkes replace onions with Parmesan cheese and a healthy seasoning of black pepper. If you’re looking for a Hanukkah miracle, you can watch these latkes disappear like magic!
Yields 12-14 latkes
1½ lbs. russet potatoes (2-3 large or 4 medium potatoes)
⅔ cup Parmesan cheese, grated ¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs
1 tsp. salt
2 tsp. black pepper
1 qt. vegetable oil, for frying
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Peel the potatoes, if desired. Shred with a box grater (on the largest holes) or a food processor; if using a food processor, quarter the potatoes, attach the shredding disc and shred those spuds.
Add the shredded potato to a clean kitchen towel, wringing out as much excess liquid as you can. Transfer the dried potatoes to a large bowl. Add the cheese, flour, eggs, salt and pepper, mixing to combine.
In a heavy, tall-sided skillet, heat ½ inch of vegetable oil over medium-high heat. You’ll know the oil is hot enough when you add a piece of potato and it sizzles immediately.
Scoop ¼ cup of the latke mixture into the pan, flattening with a spatula. Cook 4-5 latkes at a time. Fry for 3-4 minutes per side, or until golden.
Transfer the crispy latkes to the lined baking sheet, keeping them warm in the oven while you fry the remaining mixture. Repeat, adding more oil to the pan as needed and letting it heat up before adding more latkes.
CARAMELIZED ONIONS WITH ‘BACON’
FAITH KRAMER | 2022
Looking to change up your latkes this year? Try these. They are filled with the oomph of caramelized onion and, if you want, the smokiness of “bacon” — using turkey, beef or plant-based strips.
Serves 4 to 6
8 oz. turkey, beef or plant-based “bacon” strips
Vegetable oil
2 lbs. onions, very thinly sliced
1 tsp. plus ½ tsp. salt
2½ lbs. russet potatoes
2 small onions
2 large garlic cloves
Fry the meat or meat-substitute according to package instructions in a 12-inch skillet until crispy and brown. Set aside. (The onions and “bacon” can be made ahead and refrigerated for two days. Use at room temperature.)
Wipe solid bits from skillet. Add 2 Tbs. oil. Heat on medium-high until a sliver of onion sizzles. Stir in thinly sliced onions, scraping up any browned-on grease and turning onions to coat in oil. Sauté, stirring occasionally and adding oil as needed, until they begin to soften (about 10 to 12 minutes).
Stir in ½ tsp. salt. Lower heat to mediumlow. Continue to stir occasionally, adding oil if needed, until deeply browned, very soft and very much reduced (about 40 to 50 minutes). Remove with slotted spoon onto paper towel–lined plate. Set aside ½ cup for garnish. Do not rinse skillet.
Scrub potatoes if not peeling. Grate potatoes and whole onions into a large mixing bowl using a hand grater or a food processor with the shredding blade. Mix with hands and press down, squeezing shreds. Discard accumulated liquid.
Finely chop garlic and parsley leaves together. Mix with grated shreds. Squeeze again, discarding liquid.
Coarsely chop caramelized onions (but leave garnish in slices). Add chopped onions to shredded potato and onion. Chop meat or
1 cup fresh parsley leaves
½ tsp. ground black pepper
3 large eggs, beaten
¼ cup flour, plus as needed
Applesauce
2 to 3 Tbs. chopped fresh parsley or green onions
plant strips into ¼- to ½-inch pieces and add to shreds with pepper and 1 tsp. salt. Mix. Press again, discarding liquid. Mix in eggs, then flour. Let sit 10 minutes. Mix again, then press and discard liquid.
Set a cooking or baking rack over a rimmed baking tray. Have ready a second bowl for excess liquid. Oil plate to hold shaped patties. Once latkes are made, wipe out skillet, removing solids. Place skillet over mediumhigh heat and add ¼ inch of oil.
To make latkes, take a small handful of batter. Squeeze well over second bowl to remove liquid. Compress into a patty 2½ to 3 inches in diameter and about ½ inch thick. Place on oiled plate. (If latkes are not holding together, stir 1 tsp. flour into shreds.) Repeat.
Oil is ready when a potato shred sizzles (350 degrees). Use spatula to gently slide 4 to 5 latkes into oil. Press spatula down on top of latkes. Cook 4 to 5 minutes until bottom is golden, edges are brown and center is firm. The spatula should go under the latke without any resistance. Carefully flip and fry about 2 to 3 more minutes until golden underneath.
Drain latkes on rack. Repeat, adding oil and adjusting heat as needed. Return oil to a sizzle between batches.
Serve garnished with applesauce, reserved caramelized onions and chopped parsley or green onions.
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