The North Shore Weekend EAST, Issue 25

Page 22

22

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lifestyle & arts

THe North shore weekend

03/30 – 03/31/13

A Matter of Taste

Brussat blends two cuisines at popular Convito Cafe of food is a hearty peasant food. The polenta dish I mentioned falls into this category. It’s not fancy. What do you like to eat at home: A lot of Nancy Brussat is the founder of Convito Café in Wilmette. pasta. I bring home pasta from Convito and How did you start cooking? I started cook it — we have 21 different sauces that cooking as a housewife way back in the we developed in Italy with my partner’s dark ages — the 1960s and early 1970s. It mother in 1980. They’re available frozen. wasn’t until I moved to England with my Worthwhile gadget? I have a gadget that then-husband and my two kids and met an nobody else in America has: a polenta maker Italian man who had a passion for Italian from Italy. If you know anything about makfood — we opened a business, that’s how I ing polenta, it’s a long process [with a lot Nancy Brussat started! I was never a trained chef. of stirring]. I have a copper pot with an Years cooking? Convito has been open for attachment that you plug in and it’s a steel 32 years, and I’ve been cooking since I was paddle that stirs the polenta. I have no idea a kid, back in the 1950s. where you’d buy it. over everyone in the front row. She didn’t Best tweak? Polenta pastissada. It’s a Favorite cookbook? Marcella Hazan’s — miss a beat, so we wiped our faces and kept dish where you make polenta, and after it’s it’s one I started with back in the early ‘70s. taking notes. cooled, cut layers and put it in a casserole I think it’s the “Art of Italian Cooking.” dish like lasagna. The recipe I learned in Favorite fruit or vegetable? Broccoli or Recipe: Convito’s Capelli & Asparagus Italy, the sauces that were typical for this asparagus or Brussels sprouts — it’s hard Cut 4 cups asparagus in 1 inch slices particular dish, but I completely changed to pick. on an angle. Blanche asparagus in boilthem: I made a chicken sauce and a mushFunniest or most memorable kitchen ing water for 2 minutes. Set aside. Zest room. It’s really complicated; I don’t expect incident? 1 lemon. Set aside. Squeeze approxiMy friend Leslee Reis, who was a pretty the average home cook would make it. mately 3 lemons to make 1 cup of lemon Signature dish? Convito was combined famous restaurateur in Evanston, conducted juice, or use bottled lemon juice. Grate with my French restaurant, so the dishes classes in the basement of her church. She 2 cups Parmesan and chop 1 tablespoon that are currently on the menu are a com- was very expressive and funny and one time, parsley. Set aside. bination of a French bistro and an Italian she had a hand mixer and was whipping Heat a stockpot of salted water to a boil. trattoria. It’s a blending of two cuisines that cream. She wanted to make a point but forAdd 1 pound angel hair pasta. Cook for are fairly informal. got that she was mixing the cream, lifted 5-6 minutes, or until al dente. Drain Favorite food to make? My favorite kind the electric mixer, and the cream splattered pasta. Add a touch of olive oil so it

■ by katie rose mceneely

photography by joel lerner doesn’t stick, and set aside in a bowl. Heat 1 cup olive oil over medium heat. Add asparagus, parsley, lemon juice, lemon zest, and salt & pepper taste. Stir for 2 minutes until heated through. Add pasta and stir over medium heat for 1 minute. Add grated Parmesan and stir lightly. Save a pinch of Parmesan to serve on top of each plate. Serves 4. If you choose, top with sautéed chicken breast or sautéed shrimp. Convito Café & Market is located at 1515 Sheridan Rd. in Wilmette. For more information, call 847-251-3654 or visit convitocafeandmarket.com ■

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