She’ll be Apples

YOUNG FARMERS SAM EDWARDS AND ASIA UPWARD HAVE REVITALISED A CENTURY-OLD BLACKHEATH APPLE ORCHARD. ASIA TOOK TIME OUT FROM FARM CHORES TO TELL US ABOUT THEIR JOURNEY.

Interview: Jacqueline Forster. Photos: Willow & Co.

How did you come to be growing apples on the Shipley Plateau in Blackheath?

Sam came to Blackheath to climb around eight years ago as that was his passion back then. He used to drive past Logan Brae Orchard on the way to a friend’s place and loved the look of it because it reminded him of Tasmania, where he grew up. When he found out Graeme (the owner) was thinking of selling, he knocked on the door and introduced himself. They hit it off straight away and Graeme still lives next door. They are constantly sharing stories and keeping each other up to date with what is going on around the orchard. It really feels like we are an extended family.

What is the history of the farm?

Logan Brae has been around since 1919. The Jackson family started it back then and besides growing apples they had a wood mill on site. Life on the orchard in the early 1900s was hard – land had to be cleared by hand and everything was burned as they went. They started out as a Loganberry farm (hence the name) but a failed attempt at canning the berries ended that venture, so they turned the berry farm into an apple orchard.

Our cottage used to be a guest house and tea rooms that served hot scones, clotted cream and loganberry jam. It had six bedrooms for guests to stay in and a jersey cow that was milked twice a day to make the cream. The whole of the Shipley Plateau was planted with orchards back then but, unfortunately, they suffered from fires and hail and after a time ended up shutting down. Some of our older customers remember living off the apples from Logan Brae during the Great Depression. They recall walking for kilometres out to the orchard every couple of days just for the apples. Those customers now bring their grandchildren into the store to buy apples from us.

What changes have you made to Logan Brae?

When Sam took over the orchard, he changed a lot of the growing techniques and modernised it. The blocks we pick from now have been planted in rows and grow like Christmas trees on wires. This allows for easy picking and increased light on to the fruit, which creates better fruit quality with less problems from disease. We now net our trees to protect them from hail and birds, although we are seeing an increase in birds working out how to get under the nets! It seems nothing is foolproof and it’s all a constant learning curve with apples.

When did you and baby Grace join the family?

I had been living in the mountains for about a year working as a commercial photographer when I was booked to shoot the Blackheath School Cookbook, Nourish. I travelled with Jody Lee, who was organising local producers for the shoots, to pick up some produce for the front cover because I was keen to hand-pick some apples with leaves on them.

Logan Brae was our first stop, and let’s just say I was pleasantly surprised to find Sam here. There was an instant spark between us, and Jody still jokes that it was like she wasn’t even in the room. Sam walked us around the orchard and handed me a mountain of apples. He even picked me some with the leaves on, which I am not allowed to do now. I was blown away by his work ethic and the fact he was there doing it all on his own. I had never met anyone with such drive and passion. I fell for him then and there. We became inseparable and it wasn’t long before Grace was born. Now all three of us are here and it’s once again a family-run business. Tell us about the apple shed.

Our little shed is the property’s original apple shed. This is where the apples have always been sold. It’s not perfect but we love its character and wouldn’t want to change it. During the season, usually from February to July, we open to the public on weekends to sell apples by the kilo, bottled apple juice which we cold-press on site, hot homemade apple pies, warm spiced apple juice, apple jelly, apple butter, seasonal jams, toffee apples and free rangeeggs. There are families who have been coming to Logan Brae for generations and it’s so lovely to catch up with them season after season.

What are your future plans for Logan Brae?

The future is bright, beautiful and diverse. With last year’s drought and small apple-growing season, we realised it’s really important to diversify the business so our family has some financial security. I think all farmers are realising that you need to have a few things on the go rather than just relying on one crop to keep farms alive.

We hold a small number of weddings each year on our lookout and I think we’ll be constantly tweaking the business to make sure it is viable well into the future.

The worst thing for us is the thought of having to close the last remaining apple orchard on the plateau and the rich history that would disappear with it.

I have also published two children’s books, both set on the farm and part of the Loveable Lottie series. With the farm’s centenary we have two big reasons to celebrate this year and we’re planning on combining them into one big, fun, family-friendly event.

What is special about Shipley Plateau?

Our community up here is just gold. Everyone is really supportive of Logan Brae and what we are doing. The mountains is such an incredible place and, being so close to Sydney, it’s the perfect weekend getaway for people who want to escape the craziness of the city. Not only do we have beautiful views and hikes but there are such great restaurants and cafés plus fantastic wineries close by in the Megalong Valley. It’s a great place to live.

loganbrae.com.au

Spitzenburg Apple & Rosemary Tarte Tatin

INGREDIENTS ¾ cup caster sugar ¼ cup water 25g unsalted butter 7 Spitzenburg apples (you can also use Pink Lady apples), the more you can fit in the pan, the better 2 sheets of puff pastry 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary, roughly chopped Fresh cream, to serve METHOD 1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Press the two pastry sheets together to make one thicker sheet. Slice the apples into slices, removing the core but leaving the skin. 2. Using a non-stick frying pan with a metal handle, melt the sugar and water together. It’s important to stir the sugar occasionally to dissolve it but stop stirring once dissolved. Once the sugar is going a light golden colour, add the butter and stir through until melted. 3. Remove sugar and butter mix from heat and start to arrange the apple slices around the pan in circles. Recook for a few minutes then sprinkle on the rosemary. 4. Trim the pastry to fit the pan and carefully lay it over the apples. Make three small cuts in the centre of the pastry then pop back in the oven until the pastry turns a goldenbrown colour. 5. Remove from oven and let cool for a few minutes. Loosen the sides of the pastry with a knife then place a large, flat plate over the pan and carefully flip it all upside down so the tart comes out on the plate. Serve with fresh cream.