Justerini & Brooks Germany EP 2022

NEW RELEASES FROM GERMANY’S FINEST PRODUCERS

PART 1 RIESLING 2022

SCHLOSS LIESER

GERMANY 2022: VIM AND VIGOUR

At the end of August last year, I was stood in the Rheinhessen, engaged in polite conversation, all the while conscious of the rising, prickling sunburn on my skin. 2022 had been hot and dry from the off. From May through to the end of August, records had tumbled as Germany sweltered in the hottest year on record.

All the producers on our trip spoke of heat stress, particularly for the young vines. Katharina Prüm believes that green harvests through the season were essential. Not to increase the concentration of the fruit – but “to relax the plants, not just for this year but for the long term.” Oliver Haag concurred and said that almost five thousand of his vines perished. He had planted them in 2021. A one year old vine cannot withstand such conditions. By the end of August, most producers were expecting an opulent vintage, along the lines of 2018, but with less concentration. For producers of predominantly fruity wines, the hope was that if temperatures dropped and it stayed dry, then they’d potentially have a shot at late harvest, noble sweets.

In the end, neither proved to pass. By end of August sugar ripening by had slowed right down, and acidity was in high stasis, so when the first of the rains arrived in September, producers could only wait and cross their fingers. The vines unlocked and sugar levels gradually rose. A stop start harvest, interspersed with more wet weather, continued into October. The net result was a low must-weight crop on the whole. Christoph Schaefer explained that “our job was to find the elegance and enhance the depth of the wine.”

Early chatter about the vintage was that the vineyards had taken a beating. If not quite written off, hopes were contained. Amid all the talk on the outside, producers were beavering away in cellars, watching juices come to life, the wines born free of expectation, free to be what they wanted to be. If summer was a stifling night on the dancefloor, thick heat radiating from one person to the next; intense, somehow glorious; harvest was the moment the doors burst open to greedy gulps of fresh air and water.

The 2022 Rieslings have surprised everybody. Animated and open, acidity levels sit between 2019 and 2020 – these are not flabby wines, nor are they diluted. Christopher Loewen describes them as “salty, not green.” Alcohols are all on the lighter side and the wines are brilliantly fresh. It is a vintage that has a clear, accessible feel – fruits, flowers, and that famous German “minerality” dance with all the energy you’d expect. Structures correspond well to the individual quality level, and there are plenty of ageworthy 2022s. However, the generally lower sugar levels and next to no botrytis does mean a dearth of noble sweets. The few that have been bottled will sweep you off your feet.

At Grosses Gewächs level, there are many intricate, precise wines that don’t feel in the slightest bit heavy. The likes of Emrich-Schönleber, Battenfeld Spanier, Rebholz and Dönnhoff continue to produce truly world class, ageworthy, complex dry whites that deserve a place in any great collection. The good news is that the 2022s will show genuine complexity and finesse within a few years and hold for a whole lot longer.

MARK DEARING

Germany Buyer, Justerini & Brooks, September 2023.

“Our job was to find the elegance and enhance the depth of the wine.”

CHRISTOPH SCHAEFER

JOSEF SPREITZER

BERNHARD HUBER

BUYERS’ PICKS – RIESLING

Orders: 020 74846430 or Email: justbrooksorders@justerinis.com www.justerinis.com/en-primeur/germany/2022

“We always plan according to the nature and what it delivers. As a family winery, this is part of our inner peace.”

ZILLIKEN

ZILLIKEN (SAARBURG, SAAR)

“We are astonished that the wines are so inviting and light after such an intense period of drought.” This is a neat, easy range at Zilliken, which was clipped at Kabinett level. Must weights remained low throughout the season, with rains at the end of September necessitating a stop-start approach. A further week of rain arrived from 12th October, putting paid to higher Prädikat wines. As such, the very best fruit went into the very fine Rausch Kabinett and Rausch GG. From 2022, Dorothee has increased the aging time for the Grosses Gewächs from six to nine months, the first three months of which are spent on the full lees, before assemblage and racking to fuder on the fine lees for the remaining six. This, they believe, adds a touch of grip and more dimension to the wine. In the end, she explained, “we always plan according to the nature and what it delivers. As a family winery, this is part of our inner peace.”

Saarburger Rausch, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Zilliken [10-23]

2022 £200.00

Plenty of peach and yellow fruits in a more concentrated, integrated style than we’ve seen previously. Ripe citrus, juicy with a fine, broad intensity and a little herb cream on the finish. Bottled at 7g/l residual sugar. They seek out the lighter clusters with small berries which are less susceptible to noble rot but are perfect for lending structure to the dry wines. From a tiny 0.4ha section of the vineyard planted in 1880 that remains, despite some obvious replanting, entirely ungrafted. Raised in traditional German fuder barrels for nine months rather than the usual six.

Saarburger Rausch, Riesling, Kabinett, Zilliken [03-23]

2022 £110.00

The Rausch Kabinett opens up quickly in the glass, presenting clear tropical and floral notes including pineapple, elderflower and honeysuckle, to a plump, supple palate chased by a wash of acidity and slate undertow. Bottled at 58g/l residual sugar.

Saarburger Rausch, Riesling, Spätlese, Zilliken [Library Release] [03-12]

2011 £225.00

The Zillikens are famed for their library and love to open old bottles. The ’11 Rausch Spätlese is showing the first signs of tertiary development; a touch of cep here and truffle there with a hint of vanilla pod consistent with a warmer year. Nut oils and bitter orange marmalade with the smoke of a grilled peach. There is no botrytis at play here, just fully ripe grapes. A slight firmness in the mid-palate suggests that there’s no hurry to drink it.

Saarburger Rausch, Riesling, Auslese, Zilliken [Library Release] [05-10]

2009 £285.00

An Auslese straight out of the treasure chamber, the 2009 is in a beautiful drinking spot. Typical smoky notes are emerging with lashings of pineapple, mango and rose petals, as it takes on a creamier feel on the palate. So easy to enjoy, long, haunting and classy. 2009 was a vintage which benefitted from good levels of noble botrytis.

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6x75cl Vintage

MAXIMIN GRÜNHAUS (MERTESDORF, RUWER)

Maximin Von Schubert explained that “we suffered from the extreme drought like everybody. 2022 is a vintage where you can really taste the difference between villages. Though the rains came late, we are still deficient on a total basis, receiving 520L rather than the average 700L. It was like that from the Spring onwards. In mid-August we still could not tell which way the season was going as the sugar ripening was stuck but acidity was preserved. At the end of August the rains came and from then on ripeness continued. In fact, the timing was good for us as we are later ripening here in the Ruwer, so we have beautiful clarity, even if must weights were not very high.” This is a chiselled, incisive range at Grünhaus with acidity levels close to 2019 – higher than 2020 and below 2021. Considering the warmth of the year and the vitality of the wines, Maximin summed it up nicely: “the wines don’t make sense.”

Maximin Grünhauser, Bruderberg, Grosses Gewächs [12-23]

2022 £160.00 £180.00

The Bruderberg races out of the gate with easily definable red apples, grass and blossom. Initially expansive on the palate, that exuberance is tempered by a cooling line of lime sherbet and a bright fizzing shape to the acidity – a really satisfying, stylish glass that keeps you on your toes.

Maximin Grünhauser, Herrenberg, Grosses Gewächs [13-23]

2022 £165.00 £185.00

There is more chisel and grip to the Herrenberg, thanks to its crystalline citrus fruits, raspberry, peach, grapefruit and pith. Showing a long juicy finish, with no hard edges, this is no fly-by-night either. Stimulating and delicious in equal measure.

Maximin Grünhauser, Abtsberg, Grosses Gewächs [14-23]

2022 £175.00 £195.00 £130.00

The Abtsberg is a great metaphor for fine German engineering; pristine and precise, one feels as if we’ve reached a new level of refinement. Steely with a delicate grip and cool, glistening, freshly washed herbs and a kick of slate spice, the only trace of the warmth of the year is felt in the most gorgeous burst of mirabelle and white peach on the full, clear-cut finish.

Grünhauser, Abtsberg, Riesling, Superior [18-23]

2022

£140.00

Our favourite of the three “Superior” bottlings this year, the Abtsberg has a come-hither lightly smoky, spontaneous, reductive feel that makes way for animated green fruits once it opens up. Edgy initially, crystalline, it is lightly grippy in a good way, giving a sense of race and detail. The “Superior” Feinherb benefits from the same selection and handling as the GGs but is allowed to ferment to a natural stop. Being just off-dry at 12-14g, it makes for a wonderful food partner.

Maximin Grünhauser, Bruderberg, Riesling, Kabinett [03-23]

2022

£90.00

£115.00

The coolest site of the three, Bruderberg is always the last to be harvested and tends to have a hugely expressive, slightly wild, brambly character which we adore. The 2022 has a curtness backed up with a burst of cooling juicy fruits and a good level of refreshing acidity.

Maximin Grünhauser, Herrenberg, Riesling, Kabinett [04-23]

2022

£100.00

£120.00

The Herrenberg is already highly attractive and open for business, its youth betrayed by a touch of the wild yeasty fermentation notes and salt which add welcome complexity. Top notes of heather, stone fruits and flowers are freshly sculpted, bright and classic in feel. There is a lovely inner delicacy and sweetness to this. The red slate of the Herrenberg routinely delivers classy, noble rounded fruits to its wines.

Maximin Grünhauser, Abtsberg, Riesling, Kabinett [05-23]

2022

£110.00

£130.00

£85.00

Our note reads “this is very clearly Grünhaus”, by which we mean wonderful brightness and a real layering of cool fruits, slate and herbs. Apples and pears and a touch of passion fruit, stony slate and salt. The 2022 is very accomplished indeed.

Maximin Grünhauser, Herrenberg, Riesling, Spätlese [07-23]

2022

£135.00

Measured, creamy floral notes, a lick of honey with violet, jasmine tea, some guava and citrus, the Herrenberg Spätlese is medium in body with a pleasant, rounded mouthfeel and long, tasty finish. It can be broached on the earlier side and will deliver oodles of pleasure.

Maximin Grünhauser, Abtsberg, Riesling, Spätlese [06-23]

2022

£145.00

£165.00

£115.00

More compact and elemental than its Herrenberg sibling, the Abtsberg Spätlese is soaked in apple droplets, freshly cut grapes, a little fruit skin and latterly dried tropical fruit notes as the wine opens up. Fine, zippy acidity and rock salt on the finish, all underpinned by a sleek, wiry blue slate feel. Drink the Herrenberg while the Abtsberg sleeps.

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CARL LOEWEN (LEIWEN, MOSEL))

A new, exciting addition to the Justerini & Brooks list, Weingut Carl Loewen is run by the sociable, young Christopher Loewen who aims to take this great old estate to new heights. His pursuit of fabulously characterful, traditional dry Riesling sets him apart in a region more renowned for sweeter styles. Here in the Upper Mosel, a preponderance of old vines and steep slopes – some of the steepest in Europe – makes for thrilling, light Rieslings full of character. Christopher’s passion clearly lies in the vineyards; his eyes light up when discussing their ungrafted plots, which comprise some of the oldest Riesling vines in the world. Such is the quality of their massale selections in the Herrenberg (whose planting record dates to 1896) that Geisenheim University used their plant material to develop top-drawer Riesling clones which have been widely adopted by some of the grandest producers in Germany. Contrary to many of their peers, Loewen eschew green harvesting believing that it can create an imbalance – sugar without nuance. Their old vines naturally reduce the yield by 30% on average and those smaller berries, with a higher skin to juice ratio, negates the need for skin contact or lees stirring to build mouthfeel. “We want present but ripe acidity that is salty not green. We take ten years to get a vineyard in to shape, after that we let it do what it wants. To produce really top quality dry wines it requires a different mindset in the vineyard. I am happy with what we have achieved in 2022.” Rightfully so, as this collection straddles the playful and the serious with great finesse. The original Carl Loewen winery dates back to 1803. Chrisopher’s ancestors were amongst the first to buy in the Maximin Klosterlay during the time of secularization under Napoleon. In 2008, they took over the historic Weingut Carl Schmitt-Wagner, inheriting the Maximin Herrenberg in the process. This winery and its vineyards was considered a cultural monument in the Mosel, so it is with a deep sense of responsibility that Loewen continues to vinify wines from these historic sites. Bizarrely, Christopher has flown under the radar in the UK, until now that is.

Laurentiuslay, Riesling, Alte Reben, Trocken [09-23]

2022 £100.00

Laurentiuslay is the top site in the village of Leiwen, where the winery is situated. The soils are grey slate and hard stone and the Carl Loewen vines are an impressive 105 years old, fully ungrafted. Interestingly, the redistribution process which is common in German vineyards to maximise efficiency has never been done here, so their plots have always been hand worked with no adaptation to machinery. They remain single staked. Given their age and high density, yields here are incredibly low, yet the 2022 at no point feels over the top, as one might fear in a hot vintage. By pruning sensitively, the vines never go into shock nor bounce back fast; instead the grapes, once fermented, present the most soulful, fluid fruits with a fine and evident minerality. Juicy, sweet grapefruits intermingle with fresh orchard notes and a mouthwatering, delicate line of acidity. Fermented and aged in traditional German fuder on the fine lees, bottled in April before the weather warms.

Herrenberg, 1896, Riesling, Alte Reben, Trocken [10-23]

2022 £135.00

The Maximin Herrenberg is the iconic site Loewen inherited from the Carl Schmitt-Wagner estate, on iron-rich red slate soils. 1896 refers to the date they can trace these plantings back to. They are likely even older and certainly ungrafted. More herb and spice here, with flickering touches of iodine and salt if you search for them. Again, this has an intricate yet fluid feel with a sheen of airy golden apples, so alluring, with a little grip to keep it all in place. The Alte Reben Trocken comes from the middle and lower part of the slope where the earth is finer. Fermented and aged in traditional German fuder.

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Vintage 6x75cl

Ritsch, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs [11-23]

2022 £140.00

Between 1900 and 1950, Thörnicher Ritsch was considered a great Mosel vineyard. Over the latter half of the twentieth century, though, the best vignerons either died off or left with nobody to pick up the mantle. Loewen bought a parcel in 1998, knowing its aptitude for late harvests with high acidity. For the first ten years they only produced Auslese and gradually weaned the site off fertilisers. During that time, they observed the grapes naturally reducing in size year to year, so on the eleventh year the dry wine trials began. The soils are blue slate and quartzite and Ritsch is officially the second steepest vineyard in Europe after the Bremmer Calmont, also in the Mosel. Being open on both sides, it benefits from constant cool air circulation. In 2022 this helped to produce notes of freshly cut white peach and grated citrus delivered with the cold, refreshing purity of a Martini. It thrums with energy, finishing on line and length – a Riesling of great focus. Fermented and aged in traditional German fuder.

Maximin Herrenberg, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs [12-23]

2022 £150.00

Compared to the Alte Reben bottling, the GG comes from the highest, steepest, stoniest parcel where the roots are closest to the bedrock. Planted in 1902, this too is the product of ungrafted vines grown on red slate. Showing pink grapefruit, thyme, mandarin, stones and slate, this GG is agile yet fluid and mightily impressive. The concentration and heightened complexity here means that it needs a little more time than the others to fully integrate but the components are all there. At 5g residual, this technically the driest of the range offset by longer contact with the fine lees to build textures. A really stylish and unforced Mosel dry.

Riesling, 1896, Carl Loewen [13-23]

2022 £260.00

Christopher Loewen speaks of the Riesling 1896 as “a vision of the past”. It starts by picking the oldest parcel in the Herrenberg as one block, aware that this includes grape at varying ripeness levels. It is then pressed in wood by hand and left overnight. The juice is fed by gravity in to a 50-year-old fuder barrel made from Mosel oak trees with all the heavy lees and is left to ferment naturally for as long as it likes with no intervention at all. In 2022, the 1896 ran to an almost fully dry 9.7g but it normally sits at around 11-12g. “Relaxed power” is the way Christopher describes it, and it’s true that there is a lot going on here – really, it’s quite hard to describe! Mouthwatering and broad yet elemental, it marries satisfying, complex richness with true Riesling refreshment and saltiness. One fuder of 1,200 bottles is produced each year.

“I am not chasing points nor impression; I want filigreed Rieslings that make you hungry for a second glass.”

OLIVER HAAG

FRITZ HAAG

FRITZ HAAG (BRAUNEBERG, MOSEL)

Oliver Haag characterised 2022 as being “a difficult year from the beginning. It was really important to keep on top of the viticulture this year and in our case that meant targeted green harvests to reduce the crop and ensure a good level of concentration in the grapes.” The estate’s production this year is particularly strong at GG level, as the old vines that these bottlings comprise fared well in the dry conditions. A tiny amount of Auslese and even Goldkapsel has been produced, but they are real rarities. Oliver’s gradual move towards drier-styled GGs has turned out a graceful set. No skin contact and the use of purely fresh, free run juice has yielded a range of purity and weightlessness. “I am not chasing points nor impression; I want filigreed Rieslings that make you hungry for a second glass.” The 2022s at Fritz Haag are delicate yet open with a triumphant classicism that will please purists and newcomers alike.

Monzeler Kätzchen, Grosses Gewächs, Fritz Haag [29-23] 2022 £120.00

A recent addition to the Haag range, Kätzchen is a large vineyard at around 80 hectares, sat directly above the Paulinshofberg, of which there are only two to three hectares of genuine interest. It’s from here that Haag has been beavering away at the small, weathered slate soil to produce a wine of quality. Until this year, the wine had only been sold in Germany. A lean, focused style with attractive blue slate notes with hints of spearmint and cool, crunchy fruits. Left unchecked, the soil is more powerful versus the Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr, so Oliver has fermented it drier, to just 4g residual, favouring a neat, pared back style. Ageing is carried out in German fuder.

Brauneberger Juffer, Grosses Gewächs, Fritz Haag [24-23] 2022 £130.00

Whispers of the Juffer. What a wonderful, effortless feel. There is a delicate intensity here which sits on the fulcrum of fulsome fruits and a river-like purity. Animated, full of life, the 2022 Juffer GG swings with pronounced violet, citrus and lavender notes, which are all kept in check by a sophisticated reduction that draws the taster in. Aging is carried out in German fuder.

Kestener Paulinshofberg, Grosses Gewächs, Fritz Haag [27-23]

2022 £135.00

This old, well-known vineyard was once regarded at the highest level – a status to which Oliver looks set to return it. Compared to Brauneberger Juffer, the Paulinshofberg has more clay accompanying the slate and fewer stones, which results in more powerful wines. The 2022 displays red apples and riper fruits, a touch of quinine, salt and pink grapefruit. More up front, smooth and accessible than the Juffer, it will be interesting to see how this develops. Ageing is carried out in German fuder.

Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Grosses Gewächs, Fritz Haag [08-23] 2022 £175.00 £75.00

There is a clear step change here as the Juffer Sonnenuhr, from the heart of the vineyard, shows a more backward and introverted profile. It’s what you’d expect from a majestic site at this point. Firmer, more bolt-like acidity and a concentrated core of stone fruit and pressed limes, it’s less sparkly and jovial than the Juffer, instead far more elemental. It deserves a few years in the cellar to come together. A small proportion of the blend was in 500L tonneau, as Oliver ultimately decided to include the rare Im Falkenstein parcel in the main Juffer Sonnenuhr blend. Ageing is otherwise carried out in German fuder.

Riesling, Feinherb, Screwcap, Fritz Haag [01-23]

6x75cl 1x1.5.L Vintage

2022 £105.00

One of our bestsellers, Haag’s Estate off-dry (Feinherb) Riesling is ever-dependable. Lip-smacking and lively, it never disappoints. Such a good Mosel estate Riesling; one that displays more than a little of the Haag top wines’ character: fruity, delicate, animated and very easy to drink.

Brauneberger Juffer, Riesling, Kabinett, Screwcap, Fritz Haag [03-23]

2022 £150.00 £45.00

The artist formerly known as Brauneberger Riesling, Oliver decided that from 2019 he would state the true single vineyard origin on the label, namely the fine blue slate Juffer. Lightly spontaneous aromas frame a classical Mosel fruit set below. Easy to taste and easy to love, a wine to put a smile on your face.

Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Spätlese, Fritz Haag [07-23]

2022 £110.00 £45.00

Plump, succulent stone fruits with wisps of blossom and tropical notes, the fine Juffer Sonnenuhr Spätlese offers immediate fulfilment with a buoyant freshness. Likely to be an earlier drinker in the pantheon of Haag vintages, this is no bad thing, for the 2022 is supremely tasteful and classical in feel already; no need to wait forever.

Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Auslese, Fuder 6, Fritz Haag [06-23]

2022 £155.00 £70.00 £180.00

A rare beauty in 2022, the Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese carries a high level of intensity with a weightlessness that can only be achieved in the Mosel Valley. Fuder 6 comes from the oldest parcel (80-120 years old) on the left side of the Sonnenuhr, close to the terraces. A pure late harvest selection with no botrytis, this is sweet and builds gently in stature with a flowing, composed feel. Ripe stone fruits, honey, almond cream and fresh white peaches… a choir in perfect harmony.

Brauneberger Juffer, Riesling, Auslese, Goldkapsel, Fuder 22, Fritz Haag [22-23]

2022

£250.00

A painstaking selection that required a berry-by-berry selection in both the Juffer and Juffer Sonnenuhr, achieving little more than a few buckets of noble botrytised grapes. “We tried for BA and TBA but it wasn’t dry enough to reach the level of concentration we needed, so we opted to produce two very good Goldkapsels with fresher fruits instead.” The Fuder 22 shows silky, beautifully smooth tropical fruits and a jolt of electrifying acidity. Ridiculously beautiful, nimble, and really rather exciting.

Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Auslese, Goldkapsel, Fuder 9, Fritz Haag [09-23]

2022

£335.00

A berry-by-berry selection from the old plots up and down the Juffer Sonnenuhr this year, one of the very few noble sweets we encountered this year. Deeper than the Fuder 22, the Fuder 9 has a sharp, pure acidity which lessens its grip on the second taste. Behind a more profound minerality sits classy orange peel, marmalade, fresh white honey and an array of zesty, tropical fruits. Tense and highly refined, this is everything you want from a top noble sweet.

Orders: 020 74846430 or Email: justbrooksorders@justerinis.com www.justerinis.com/en-primeur/germany/2022

“We are completely family run and owned. Not too small not too big.”

SCHLOSS LIESER

SCHLOSS LIESER (LIESER, MOSEL)

Thomas Haag’s celebrated Schloss Lieser estate has settled at what they consider to be a manageable 30 hectares in size. With some pride, Thomas asserted that “we are completely family run and owned. Not too small not too big.” Considering 2022, he said it was “a special vintage, a proper drought year. We saw three rain days in September, one per week, which kept the acidities alive and the sugar content stable without excess, making for a transparent style. The 2022s do not have the richness of 2018 or 2019 but have good structure and complexity. Everybody is very surprised about how the vintage has played out in the wines.” The main challenge at Lieser was to limit the stress to the young vines. Ultimately, Thomas chose to declassify some of less propitious parcels in his Grosse Lage sites into the estate wines – a loss in quantitative terms but a boon for quality at both ends of the scale. Comparing to 2020, Thomas characterises the 2022s as being a little less ripe but with more structure. “We were very lucky in the end that we had this slower ripening cycle as we don’t have the extract to cover what we feared might be very opulent fruit, similar to 2018. Actually, the wines are notably lighter and juicier.”

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Schloss Lieser [29-23]

2022 £180.00

The Himmelreich is typically light on its feet, with a cooler green-fruited and citrus lean. Normally the lightest and most thirst-quenching GG in the line-up, the site is known for producing nimble, classical Rieslings.

Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Schloss Lieser [31-23]

2022 £180.00

Delicately styled, elegant and soothing, with fine acidity, the Juffer Sonnenuhr is a lovely, subtly building GG with an elemental pale-fruited, slate-rich finish.

Lieser Niederberg Helden, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Schloss Lieser [30-23]

2022 £180.00

Ripe orange citrus fruits, tangerine, a little quince and a flinty, smoky spontaneous and wild herb laced bouquet. The ripeness and open-hearted feel to this site is interwoven with a fine acidity. A blue slate vineyard which Thomas Haag has put on the map, facing south / south-west.

Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Schloss Lieser [33-23]

2022 £180.00

Tending towards the exotic fruit nature, but with a vibrating acidity and glittering minerals, Goldtröpfchen is a majestic amphitheatre that surrounds the village of Piesport. The easily warmed soil is comprised of deep, very weathered, dark Devon slate that contains quartz and minerals. In some places there is a high share of fine earth.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Schloss Lieser [32-23]

2022 £180.00

The Wehlener Sonnenuhr is expressive and bold with a rich seam of dark blue slate, clementine, mirabelle and soft lemons. A hint of caraway and the smoky herbs of wild fermentation, this is a very smart and composed GG from Thomas Haag.

Terroir Kiste, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Schloss Lieser

2022 £275.00

The Schloss Lieser “Terroir Case” is the only way to purchase the Doctor GG, together with one bottle each of: Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG, Himmelreich GG, Niederberg Helden GG, Juffer Sonnenuhr GG and Goldtröpfchen GG. All six wines are personally signed by winemaker and owner Thomas Haag and packed in an original wooden case.

Vintage 6x75cL

Lieser Niederberg Helden, Riesling, Kabinett, Schloss Lieser [08-23]

6x75cl 3x1.5L Vintage

2022 £85.00

A Grosse Lage that Thomas Haag more or less put on the map single-handedly, the Helden is synonymous with complex, ripe but slate-driven Rieslings resplendent with yellow fruits, red apples and intense, stimulating levels of extract and acidity. The 2022 plays with golden fruits, some papaya and grapefruit. The supple, fleshy, sweet style and pliant finish suggests that this will drink well in youth.

Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling, Kabinett, Schloss Lieser [12-23]

2022 £85.00

Again, 2022 offers a fruity, up-front style of Kabinett, the Goldtröpfchen betraying fun flavours of papaya and ripe peach, underpinned by a really crystalline acidity and light grip on the finish. Thomas has a total of 1.2 hectares spread across the Goldtröpfchen amphitheatre.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Kabinett, Schloss Lieser [11-23]

2022 £85.00

The drier soils of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr often display a deeper minerality which in this case ties all those lovely layers of fruit together. Animated and stimulating, the 2022 carries lots of little dancing notes of yellow berries, flowers and minerals. Very long and complex, a standout.

Lieser Niederberg Helden, Riesling, Spätlese, Schloss Lieser [14-23]

2022 £100.00

£130.00

Juicy and seemingly more vital than the Kabinett, the 2022 has a basket of red apples, crystalline honey and grapefruit juice. Such lovely purity, a Spätlese with everything in the right proportion.

Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Spätlese, Schloss Lieser [15-23]

2022

£100.00

£130.00

The Lieser holdings in the Juffer Sonnenuhr come from the very best part of the vineyard, right in the middle, where the vines are forty to fifty years old, yielding grapes of outstanding natural balance and depth. Wild, airy herbal aromas, but with a very light touch, then minty, peachy, golden fruit. A flattering wine that is easy to love.

Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling, Spätlese, Schloss Lieser [17-23]

2022 £100.00 £130.00

Goldtröpfchen’s beautiful fruits present themselves at every quality level. A little tighter in structure than the Juffer Sonnenuhr Spätlese, it presents lively, lifted, focussed sweetness with a certain grip. This is tense and full of verve.

Lieser Niederberg Helden, Riesling, Auslese, Schloss Lieser [18-23]

2022

150.00

Mint leaf on pineapple, the Helden Auslese is richly textured and carries a delicious sweetness with freshness. An Auslese all about pleasure and charm, this was the product of clean, late harvest grapes with no botrytis. Residual sugar levels tend to sit around 90-95g/l at this level.

Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, Riesling, Auslese, Schloss Lieser [21-23]

2022

£150.00

Golden “droplets” indeed. Pixellated, complex and expressive, the Auslese presents a basket of passion fruit, mango, guava and quince with the most luxurious honeyed feel. This is sleek and lovely on the finish, the product of purely ripe berries with no botrytis.

Lieser Niederberg Helden, Riesling, Auslese, GK, Schloss Lieser [22-23]

2022

£215.00

£250.00

The Helden GK is the only wine in the range to see some noble botrytis influence, to the tune of 20-30%. Intense, firm and fresh, there is power in the core, yet it is beautifully weighted and stylish with complex notes of essential oils, lemon tart and marzipan. So fine and long, this is very inviting and supremely classy.

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“We have never really had a vintage of such extremes and yet we don’t feel the warm summer in the wines. Our job was to seek out the elegance and enhance the depth of the wine, so we felt it best to stop at Spätlese level rather than wait and risk it through the rains for higher concentration and sweetness levels. To do so would be to lose purity.”

WILLI SCHAEFER

CHRISTOPH SCHAEFER

WILLI SCHAEFER (GRAACH, MOSEL)

Tasting with the Schaefers is always a highlight of our German trip. A more down-to-earth and charming family one could not wish to meet. This completely belies the quality of the Rieslings, which are now rightly regarded as being in the top handful in all of Germany. With a total holding of just four hectares, everything is “small but perfectly formed” – something that the market has fully cottoned on to. In 2021, the vineyards of Graach suffered with Peronospora (downy mildew) and finally dilution which meant they could only bottle a tiny amount of the best, so we were hoping for a bigger crop in 2022. With a gentle sigh, Christoph said “it’s up slightly but that was not hard. I’m afraid it’s another small vintage where selections made the difference.” The bristling clarity and intensity of these super-focused and nuanced Rieslings completely belie the conditions, once again. “We have never really had a vintage of such extremes and yet we don’t feel the warm summer in the wines. Our job was to seek out the elegance and enhance the depth of the wine, so we felt it best to stop at Spätlese level rather than wait and risk it through the rains for higher concentration and sweetness levels. To do so would be to lose purity.” As always, the Schaefer wines are likely to be in high demand. Nobody can begrudge that of them.

Graacher, Riesling, Trocken, Screwcap [06-23]

2022 £95.00

Lean and tight, the Graacher Trocken is a high wire, dew-like Riesling with crisp, refreshing limey fruits. Usually, the fruit comes from the Himmelreich but in 2021 and 2022 there is some Domprobst in there too. Produced in the large neutral oak barrels as usual, racked a little earlier, then kept on the fine lees all the way through to bottling in April.

Graacher, Riesling, Feinherb, Screwcap [07-23]

2022 £95.00

Again, a wine of snappy minerality and lively acidity, the Feinherb is a little more expressive than the Trocken with a touch more stone fruit, but it’s really about light, crystalline drinkability.

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Kabinett, Willi Schaefer [02-23]

2022 £135.00 £165.00

A model of transparency, the Himmelreich Kabinett is laden with fresh lime, lime blossom, herbal notes and apple slices on ice. Wiry acidity with huge energy and precision, this Kabinett is utterly charming and jovial.

Graacher Domprobst, Riesling, Kabinett, Willi Schaefer [03-23]

2022 £135.00

£165.00

The Domprobst Kabinett offers more gloss and beautifully clear, suave fresh fruits like peach, apricot and lime, supported by violet and crushed slate. So lovely and finessed, there are hidden contours, and the charm of the vintage really shines through. It’s all about light and persistence with a touch of cream on the finish, what more can one want?

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Spätlese, Willi Schaefer [08-23] 2022

2022 £165.00

Christoph explained that the majority of the grapes were best suited for Kabinett level wines, so this bottling represents a small, meticulous selection. The results are really quite striking as there is no trace of weight here, it is completely finessed and interlaced with complex white fruits, minerals, freshly squeezed lime and salt. You might say it’s the fine wine version of a Margarita!

Graacher Domprobst, Riesling, Spätlese, Fuder 5, Willi Schaefer [05-23]

2022 £215.00

Again, no Fuder 10 this year so this is a very high level selection of the Domprobst. More muscular and athletic than the Himmelreich, it is fuller in fruit with a lacy, nimble acidity, and long noble finish. Hard to come by and routinely one of the very best wines in the Mosel, lovers of the Schaefer wines will not be disappointed with this.

Orders: 020 74846430 or Email: justbrooksorders@justerinis.com www.justerinis.com/en-primeur/germany/2022

6x75cl 3x1.5L Vintage

“The data shows a total rainfall figure very similar to 2011 for us but the difference in 2022 is that we had nothing at the crucial times. It was imperative that you were out in the vines reducing the crop to relax the plant and avoid stress, not just for this year but thinking long term. Come harvest time it was very clear which estates had opted to bring in a bumper crop. Those grapes would have never made the cut in my cellar.”

KATHARINA PRÜM

JOH. JOS. PRÜM (WEHLEN, MOSEL)

Katharina Prüm is on a roll at the moment. For us, the Prüm 2021s set a new modern-day benchmark, being models of balletic austerity and subtlety. It was therefore with some anticipation that we approached the 2022s, conscious that on paper the conditions had done a complete 180. It’s no overstatement to say that we were blown away by what we tasted. More pliant than the 2021s, Katharina and team have somehow bottled a collection that thrills from top to bottom. Not only are they irresistible now, they deliver satisfaction with intricacy, high-toned fruits and the most impressively long, glistening aftertastes. Katharina explained that the intense conditions required a more severe green harvest than they are used to, to such an extent that they arrived with around half the volume of the comparable 2020 vintage. “The data shows a total rainfall figure very similar to 2011 for us but the difference in 2022 is that we had nothing at the crucial times. It was imperative that you were out in the vines reducing the crop to relax the plant and avoid stress, not just for this year but thinking long term. Come harvest time it was very clear which estates had opted to bring in a bumper crop. Those grapes would have never made the cut in my cellar.” Katharina has allowed the wines to run a little drier this year to balance the gentler fruit profile and the results are stunning.

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Kabinett, JJ Prüm [07-23]

2022 £155.00

Expressive, crispy, with Thai-spice, lime and zip, the Himmelreich Kabinett is so nervy and edgy that it really thrills. Not austere, it is positively soaked in juice and tightened up by slate, this is a lifted, delicious, classically leaning Kabinett from Katharina Prüm.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Kabinett, JJ Prüm [08-23]

2022 £165.00 £205.00

Typically, the Wehlener Sonnenuhr is more introspective, requiring a little coaxing to reveal earth-bound notes of stone, slate and spice, underpinned by yellow fruits, tangerine and a dollop of honey. Elbows in, this is tucked up, fresh and pretty serious.

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Spätlese, JJ Prüm [10-23]

2022 £165.00

Such a nimble, energetic Spätlese betraying lively notes of green apple, white peach, bramble and crystalline honey; it is subtle, juicy and tight knit. Superb delineation and an irresistible energy – it’s already a thrill to taste.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Spätlese, JJ Prüm [11-23]

2022 £190.00

£215.00

More smoke and lees and a wild, unadorned truth to the virile stone fruit in this highly finessed Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese. There is richness and intensity here delivered with striking elegance and detail. On this showing there is no reason why it shouldn’t make for old bones. So long and smooth and noble.

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Auslese, JJ Prüm [16-23]

2022 £195.00

Animated, vital fruits, lively with veins of salt and slate, so crystalline and juicy and lifted. Really drinkable in a true Auslese style, not about impression or show, this a sweet wine that will leave you reaching for the second glass.

6x75cl 3x1.5L Vintage

Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Auslese, JJ Prüm [17-23]

Intricate and composed, it requires a little work to unpack, as you might expect at this point. Fresh mango, almond cream and elderflower, as it opens up it exudes riper notes of rose water and honey, quite ornate and really very beautiful. This is the more baroque answer to the more minimalist Himmelreich.

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Auslese, GK, JJ Prüm [20-23] 2022

The Goldkapsel builds and builds with a wash of jewel-like pixellated fruits, topped with honey and cream, it’s so stylish and unforced, with a brittle, nervy acidity – a clear-eyed and seductive GK.

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Auslese, LGK, JJ Prüm [21-23] 2022 £650.00

Tasting a LGK from JJ Prüm makes you sit up and take note. The Zeltinger Sonnenuhr 2022 breathes aromatic notes of jasmine tea, smoke, apples, cream and key lime pie. Very pure and ripe with a natural sweetness and richness that naturally needs a decade to unfurl, there is much more to come here. A limited production, bottled only in halves, those lucky enough to have a case will thank themselves later.

Orders: 020 74846430 or Email: justbrooksorders@justerinis.com www.justerinis.com/en-primeur/germany/2022

EMRICH-SCHÖNLEBER

“We adapted early in the season to give our vines the best chance of success. It all comes down to decision making. We were ready and happy by the time harvest came.”

EMRICH-SCHÖNLEBER

EMRICH-SCHÖNLEBER (MONZINGEN, NAHE)

Frank Schönleber lets his football do the talking. Seemingly never cowed nor on the back foot, he is one of those producers who is prepped for every eventuality. With the physicality of a mountain goat and an eagle-like eye for detail, Frank appeared totally undaunted by the extremity of 2022. “Yes, it was very dry”, he conceded, but “we adapted early in the season to give our vines the best chance of success. It all comes down to decision making. We were ready and happy by the time harvest came.” Alcohols here top out at 12.5%, though the majority come in below that. For what seems like the hundredth time, we left the cellar completely buoyed by what we had tasted – this is again a contender for dry wine collection of the vintage. Not only are vineyard signatures as clear as ever, what we adore about the Schönleber range is that they never play to an audience – they require introspection and serenity and will repay patience . In the dry wines, fruit plays second fiddle to the purest, most harmonious floral accents born aloft stones, slate and salt. In fact, we can say that the wines mirror their maker to an extent, in the way that they are single-minded, vital and precise. The fact that Frank remains the president of the VDP Nahe is just an example of the esteem in which this small estate is held. The move to lighter Grosses Gewächs glass bottles and intensive cover crop programmes further boost the Schönleber green credentials. The dry wines are all spontaneously fermented and aged in traditional wooden cask. The entry level dry and all the fruity wines are raised in stainless steel to preserve their cut and freshness.

Lenz Riesling, Emrich-Schönleber [22-22]

2022 £100.00

Lean, crystalline and persistent with some citrus and essential oils, really a lovely delicate and mouthwatering entry-level. Between a third and 50% fruit from the Frühlingsplätzchen, the soils here comprised of mostly red slate and loam. Just above a Trocken level of residual sugar and bottled at 11.5% alcohol.

Monzinger Riesling, Trocken, Fruhtau, Emrich-Schönleber [32-22]

2022 £150.00

Tingling red spice aromatics and fine pink and yellow citrus fruits, the Fruhtau has an enticing minerality, with a long, fine boned finish. Frank thinks is one of the best they’ve made. Produced from younger vines in the Frühlingsplätzchen vineyard of 10-25 years old and raised in exactly the same way as the GGs, this is always a canny buy.

Monzinger Niederberg, Riesling, Trocken, Erste Gewächs, Emrich-Schönleber [42-22]

2022 £215.00

Produced from 30 year old vines, the Niederberg Trocken 1G is all about delicacy, there is nothing showy here. Cool in style with a little grip and austerity, beams of fresh acidity give this a pure, drinkable feel. Niederberg is the extension of the hillside adjoining Halenberg with the same blue slate and quartzite soils. The difference lies in its steepness (being 40 degrees vs Halenberg’s 70 degrees). Fermented and matured in traditional German fuders, same as the GGs.

Frühlingsplätzchen, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Emrich-Schönleber [44-22] 2022

Haunting, delicate Riesling aromas that are built on elegance and finesse with a sneaking vitality and light grip of dry extract. Racy and yet so fine. Produced from 30 year old vines, fermented naturally and raised in traditional German casks. A red slate and gravel dominated site facing southwest to southeast.

Halenberg Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Emrich-Schönleber [45-22]

2022

As the majority owner of this fabulous blue slate and quartzite vineyard, the Schönleber family have long teased out its finer elements. The 2022 exudes subtle notes of apples and fresh peach, with wild flowers and a more concentrated middle palate sweetness pocked by layers of blue slate. Lithe and cool with an impressively long, rocky, salty finish.

Monzinger Riesling, Kabinett, Emrich-Schönleber [51-22]

2022 £125.00

The Ortswein (village) Kabinett is neat and animated, more generous than the 2020 and 2021, with a full fruit basket cut with a fresh acid line. A delicious, crowd-pleasing wine with a little kick of red slate spice on the end.

Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen, Riesling, Spätlese, Emrich-Schönleber [53-22]

2022 £185.00

Lively and juicy with a little wild ferment note, the acidity is present and stimulating; a basis for an array of vibrant dancing fruits and pockets of slate on a complex, beautifully balanced finish.

Monzinger Halenberg, Riesling, Auslese, Emrich-Schönleber [57-22]

2022

One of the few Auslesen this year, the Halenberg has a handsome intensity which carries its seamless sweetness with great ease. Ripe melon, apricot, mango and quince slim down through to a narrow, very slate-transparent, saline finish. Frank’s philosophy on Auslese is that “I like to have a certain amount of botrytis in Auslese when I can, but I never want any in my Spätlese”.

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“A lot of rain at the beginning of the year boded well, but ten litres of rain across the whole of June, July and August is a bit ridiculous! You could walk across the river… Everything was yellow and red except the vines which survived and were a bright, verdant green.”

DÖNNHOFF

DÖNNHOFF (OBERHAUSEN, NAHE)

Dönnhoff is one of the pre-eminent German wine estates and its reputation for consistency is safe in the hands of the 2022s. Sascha Schömel described how “a lot of rain at the beginning of the year boded well, but ten litres of rain across the whole of June, July and August is a bit ridiculous! You could walk across the river… Everything was yellow and red except the vines which survived and were a bright, verdant green.” Thankfully, a little rain just before harvest in the Nahe helped to flesh out the grapes and reduced the overall concentration level. “We picked the GGs earlier than usual to keep freshness and worked to avoid a phenolic character by making the strictest selections and pressing very gently. It is not a year with many sweet wines, unfortunately.” With a couple of gleeful winks and a smile, he describes the GGs and Kabinett and Spätlese wines as “tippy toppy!” in quality, with alcohols in the dry wines averaging 11.5-12%. Harvest concluded on October 17th.

Dellchen Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Dönnhoff [25-23]

2022

£320.00

Our early visits to the estate live in the memory, particularly a description of the way that Dellchen “swings it hips”, to mean that it is more exuberant. In the intervening years, this GG does seem to have been dialled back, while keeping a sense of immediate charm. The 2022 is pure and sparkly, with freshly squeezed lemon providing a base for small berries, pink grapefruit and quince. There is nothing baroque about this – it’s sophisticated and linear. Dellchen is the rare vineyard that combines two entirely different soil types, with up to 2m of slate over volcanic bedrock, on a steep 70% gradient. Picked in micro plots and raised in a combination of traditional German fuder and stainless steel.

Hermannshöhle, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Dönnhoff [26-23]

2022

£350.00

£370.00

The most complex of the GGs, Hermannshöhle comes across sharp, stylish and unforced; crystalline, fluid and refreshing with oodles of tight lemon blossom, herbs, mandarin, a hint of honey and a long, ultra-fine slate-rich finish. A wine of myriad complexities. A truly great vineyard that very seldom lets you down.

Riesling, Dönnhoff [08-23]

2022

£80.00

Lip-smacking stone and tropical fruits delivered in an upright juicy fashion. The Estate Riesling comes mostly from the younger vineyards in the villages of Kreuznach and Roxheim where the fuller volcanic and slate soils produce a more accessible style from the beginning.

Oberhäuser Leistenberg, Riesling, Kabinett, Dönnhoff [03-23]

2022

£100.00

A sweeter-styled Kabinett of great vitality, yielding a pool of blue fruits, cherries and yellow plums, so easy to like and enjoy from the get-go, though the quality of the site also provides plenty of potential for the future. A southeast facing site on 30-40% gradient, the soils are primarily weathered grey slate.

6x75cl 3x1.5L Vintage 1x3L

Oberhäuser Brücke, Riesling, Spätlese, Dönnhoff [14-23] 2022

Apricot, fresh apple, honey and pineapple are some of the flavours exhibited here. The 2022 has a ascending, smooth sweetness with a pliant feel and supple, juicy acidity. Produced from one of Dönnhoff’s coolest sites, a low vineyard close to the river which excels at Spätlese level, and occasionally produces a scintillating Eiswein.

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, Riesling Spätlese, Dönnhoff [15-23] 2022

The Hermannshöhle plays a game of two halves; being full in texture with masses of noble, complex flavour, not restricted to fruit; a contrast to the wave of sea-salt laden acid-freshness. The concentration here indicates it would be a good bet over at least the next fifteen years.

Oberhäuser Brücke, Riesling Auslese, Goldkap, Dönnhoff [16-23]

The Goldkap was a little closed on our visit, though its potential is plain to see. A very small amount of noble botrytis was harvested in 2022, around 15% in this case. Concentrated, golden orchard fruits with a core of compact sweetness and acidity, it is one to lay down for a while.

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, Riesling Auslese, Goldkap, Dönnhoff [17-23]

The selection for the Goldkap comes from the lower part of the vineyard, where the vines are single staked and directly influenced by the river. Wonderfully expansive and composed, the Hermannshöhle is highly finessed, arriving with notes of passion fruit cream, mango and guava with touches of almond and floral honey. More tropical than the Brucke but also broader, it has an insanely long finish.

Oberhäuser Brücke, Riesling, BA, Dönnhoff [20-20] 2019

Lusciously sweet and aristocratic, with a generous spread of marmalade and white chocolate, clove, figs and honey it envelops the senses. Plush and yet concentrated it will outlive all of us. A very small part of the vineyard was not harvested in the normal timeframe, in the hope of an Eiswein. In the end, this was not possible, so they opted to pick two days before Christmas and use an old wooden basket press to process the grapes. It was fermented in stainless steel and was bottled as a fine Beerenauslese at 7% ABV.

Orders: 020 74846430 or Email: justbrooksorders@justerinis.com www.justerinis.com/en-primeur/germany/2022

JOSEF SPREITZER (OESTRICH, RHEINGAU)

We’d like to claim it was red carpet treatment for the British importers but, in truth, some auspicious timing provided us with a tasting of matured and noble sweet wines at Weingut Spreitzer along with the new releases, coming off the back of a tasting that Andreas Spreitzer had recently carried out. The style at Spreitzer is traditional and texture-led, favouring a later harvest to get fully ripe grapes and a mix of stone fruits and savouriness; that outline is naturally supported by the better water-retaining soils around Oestrich. In 2022, this posed a challenge as despite fighting drought through the season, two weeks of heavy rain in September created a high risk of humidity and botrytis – neither of which are desirable in dry wines. Preferring not to take any chances, this is an early picked vintage at Spreitzer; the Riesling vines were harvested as soon as the soils had dried after the rains, even if that meant a little less concentration than usual. The wines lead with golden fruits and supple acidities and will drink on the early side. The majority of the range is fermented and aged in old, traditional German casks, notably Stuck (1200L) and Doppelstuck (2400L). The lip-smacking, ever-popular, Estate Riesling is vinified 85% in stainless steel and 15% in Doppelstuck. Please note that the Rheingau VDP has decided to hold back GGs for an additional year in bottle going forward. We are therefore now offering the Wisselbrunnen GG 2021.

Josef Spreitzer, Riesling Trocken, Spreitzer [29-23]

2022 £55.00

Pretty yellow fruits play with clean crisp acidity, this is an undemanding and uncomplicated wine that is designed to offer a lot of pleasure. The fruit for this cuvee comes from younger vines across the estate which typically produce looser berry clusters with good yields. Often picked a little later than other cuvees due to the higher yields, the result is an officially Spätlese level wine, vinified dry – and as such, this offers excellent quality for the price.

Oestricher Doosberg, Alte Reben, Trocken, Spreitzer [12-23]

2022 £90.00

An open, smoothly styled, peachy Riesling Trocken with herbs from the garden. Officially a Grosse Lage vineyard, Doosberg is made up of loam, loess and clay with quartz veins running through it, the latter sections utilised much in this bottling. Produced from 50 year old vines.

Oestricher Klosterberg, Alte Reben, Trocken, Spreitzer [13-23]

2022 £90.00

Rheingau afficionados will tell you that the Klosterberg has an almost mythical status, being an ancient, terraced site with slate and quartzite influence. The south-west facing steep slopes, nestled under the Taunus mountains at 250m elevation, provide an ideal setting for the 50 year old vines that are used to produce this excellent cuvee. More exotic and creamy than in the previous few years, the 2022 has a plumper fruit character underpinned by complex minerals. Raised almost entirely in old German barrels.

Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Spreitzer [34-22]

2021 £180.00

Hailing from a top vineyard that sits just above Marcobrunn, and is if anything steeper than its famous neighbour. Nicely measured and supple in style initially before a ripe supporting acidity emerges on the palate with a wisp of cool earth, caraway and orange blossom. A very pleasant, tactile GG that will provide a lot of pleasure.

Oestricher Lenchen, Eiserberg, Spätlese 303, Spreitzer [17-23]

2021 £140.00

Now proudly bearing the name Eiserberg on the label, as it did back in 1920 when the original 303 was produced, this delicious Spätlese comes from a section of the Lenchen vineyard where red slate dominates. Technically, the Lenchen Grosse Lage has two clearly defined plots – the Lenchen itself and the Lenchen Eiserberg, which is the southwest facing part where the soils are much redder (Eiser translates as Iron). This iron-rich component adds a huge amount to the blend and adds to the distinctive character of Spreitzer’s 303. In the whole Rheingau there are only three red soil sites: Schloss Johannisberg, Rothenberg and Lenchen Eiserberg.

Orders: 020 74846430 or Email: justbrooksorders@justerinis.com www.justerinis.com/en-primeur/germany/2022

KÜHLING-GILLOT & BATTENFELD SPANIER

“2022 was not a warm year for us but it was very dry. It rained a lot in the winter but not during the period of vegetation. Harvest finished about a week earlier than the recent average.”

KÜHLING-GILLOT & BATTENFELD SPANIER

KÜHLING-GILLOT & BATTENFELD SPANIER (HOHEN-SÜLZEN, RHEINHESSEN)

Deutschland’s answer to the Obamas, Oliver Spanier and Carolin Spanier-Gillot represent two different estates brought together by marriage but produced by one winemaking team in one cellar. We’d bet that they are set to steal a headline or two as the year goes on. 2022 for example saw the launch of the “Liquid Earth” blend on the Place de Bordeaux – the first German wine to have the honour. Huge investments in the vineyards, in both Riesling and Pinot Noir, are felt in the junior wines already and we can’t wait to see what they do with them as the vines grow older. “2022 was not a warm year for us but it was very dry. It rained a lot in the winter but not during the period of vegetation. Harvest finished about a week earlier than the recent average.” The limestone parcels of the Rheinhessen and Pfalz profit from veins of water in the soil and runoff from the mountains, whilst the slate soils of the Roter Hang require a different approach, Oliver was keen to stress. The 2022s have a generally ripe, spice-driven, fine leesy feel across the slate soils for Kühling-Gillot, while the limestone crus are more on the pith and golden fruits with a kick of fresh lemon. At this high level, the wines deserve time in the cellar to show at their best, as recent bottles of 2015 and 2016 attest to. The youthful impression of fruit, blossom and essential oils that the 2022s show now, though amiable, will slim after a few years in bottle, with fine earth and salinity emerging with more prominence. For information on the new release Spätburgunders from both properties please continue to Part 2 of the brochure –Pinot Noir & Chardonnay.

Quinterra, Riesling, Kühling-Gillot [15-23]

2022 £55.00

A juicy, accessible, characterful Gutswein produced from 80% Oppenheimer fruit and 20% Nierstein. 11g/l residual sugar makes it technically a Feinherb.

Zellertal, Riesling, Trocken, Battenfeld-Spanier [46-23]

2022 £175.00

The young vines of the famous Kreuzberg vineyard (that of their Auction bottling fame) that go into the Zellertal cuvee are already 15 years old. A sheen of smooth, glossy golden fruits sits beneath a trendy, spontaneous nose, finishing with a fine grip and cool salinity. Not so much a village wine as a baby Auction wine in a very finely pitched package.

Kirchenstuck, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Battenfeld-Spanier [53-23]

2022 £225.00

Hailing from a plot above the winery in Hohen-Sülzen, Kirchenstuck invariably represents the most gleaming, fruit-driven wine in the range. Golden apples and citrus with some white pepper seasoning and even a touch of spearmint, the 2022 Kirchenstuck is set to delight from the beginning. Kirchenstuck is located is a relatively flat vineyard with a high proportion of limestone and loess. The Grosse Lage section is only a small portion of the site.

Hipping, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Kühling-Gillot [59-23]

2022 £285.00

A touch of spontaneous fermentation frames the nose, before ripe, really quite serious compact citrus fruits and fine red slate spice. Intense, a little bound up still, a few essential oils sneak in on the finish. A justly famous, steep, south-east/east facing vineyard on red slate – along with Pettenthal, one of the key sites in the Roter Hang.

Vintage 6x75cl

Zellerweb am Schwarzen Herrgott, Grosses Gewächs, Battenfeld-Spanier [55-23]

2022 £335.00

“The Showman” Oliver says, and indeed there is often an exuberance here. The 2022 is perhaps the standout wine in the range this year, for us, breathing crackling, cool cassis, waxy lemons and salt crystals on a river of fresh, invigorating acidity. The vines here quickly hit dark limestone and the effect on the palate is one of deep, dark structured minerality. This is one of the oldest known vineyard sites in Germany, first recognised in the 8th Century. It sits on the Pfalz border with the Donnerberg mountain to the west, from where cool winds often flow.

Pettenthal, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Kühling-Gillot [60-23]

2022 £335.00

Cool and edgy initially, the palate shows a fine leesy element, taut citrus fruits, pressed flowers and a baseline of red spices and iron – the acidity is well covered by the fruits. Along with Hipping this is one of the key sites in the Roter Hang – the iron rich slate tending to be composed of larger plates, which contributes to the wine’s signature sense of composure.

Frauenberg, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Battenfeld-Spanier [54-23]

2022 £335.00

A very windy site that offers up light to the Hergott’s darkness. A super sophisticated nose, marrying freshly squeezed lemon juice, brine, complex notes of wild fermentation with white pepper and a touch of fennel. The soil is extremely rocky and stony, not heavy at all. “It took us 20 years to truly understand the elegance of this wine” Oliver explained. It seems like they’ve got a pretty good handle on it now. The vines here have very little topsoil before diving straight into limestone. Buffeted by wind from the Zellertal valley, sitting at 280m above sea level, this is always the last vineyard to be harvested and the wines have an aromatic clarity that is startling.

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ÖKONOMIERAT REBHOLZ

“The wines are lighter in alcohol with a nice elegance.”

VALENTIN REBHOLZ

ÖKONOMIERAT REBHOLZ (SIEBELDINGEN, PFALZ)

Brothers Hans and Valentin Rebholz bounce off each other with infectious enthusiasm. Continuing in the tradition of their father Hansjorg, the wines at Rebholz have an uncompromising bent. The family long ago decided to dial up the intensity of the different soils in their armoury, leveraging old vine holdings to produce bracingly clear, ageworthy dry whites, and not just Riesling. An early 8am visit was of no trouble to them. In fact, the office and tasting room was alive with chatter on our visit, proof that to soar with the eagles you’ve got to be up with the larks! Certified fully organic, the brothers’ experience in some of the greatest cellars in Burgundy has provided plenty of brain food. The total absence of oak in the whites, unusual in the Pfalz at this level, produces bell-clear wines of great accuracy. Mature bottles need to be tasted to be believed. If all this sounds a little daunting and austere, fear not, as 2022 may well be the perfect vintage for you. This year, it’s all lightness and freshness over power. Plentiful rain in June around flowering produced a lot of grapes. For Rebholz, the key was to control vegetation and reduce the crop load. Dry conditions in July and August were less of an issue, instead, 150mm of rain midharvest meant they had to wait until October to pick the Riesling GGs. “We expected wines in the [more serious] style of 2020 but because of the break we ended up picking about two weeks later and the wines are lighter in alcohol with a nice elegance.” Unusually, the Ortswein, named according to soil type, all hail from the Grosse Lagen and are effectively a first selection of the GGs. As such, they tend to over deliver on their status.

Riesling vom Rotliegenden, Trocken, Ökonomierat Rebholz [05-23]

2022 £150.00

A light and juicy wine with a thrust of ferric notes and shining, collected grapefruit notes. This wine comes from the first pick across the great Kastanienbusch site; thus, all of the grapes in this are technically eligible for GG status. Raised exclusively in stainless steel.

Riesling vom Muschelkalk, Trocken, Ökonomierat Rebholz [23-23]

2022 £155.00

A lifted, clean and gentle white fruit and floral aroma, an untrammelled, stone-inflected Riesling. A combination of younger plots and declassified GG fruit from the limestone rich Im Sonnenschein vineyard. Raised exclusively in stainless steel.

Sonnenschein, Weisserburgunder, Grosses Gewächs, Ökonomierat Rebholz [17-23]

2022 £330.00

Pure shell limestone soils. The step up in the Weissburgunder world is a big one, and this offers a lot of complexity and intensity without feeling dense in the slightest. Plumes of tasteful smoke, nut oils and citrus oils with delicious white pear – this is a standout in the range this year. The Rebholz twins consider this the most Chablisienne wine in their range and certainly the intersection of fruit and chalky minerality does support that. From vines over 30 years old. Raised exclusively in stainless steel.

Ganzhorn, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Ökonomierat Rebholz [19-23]

2022 £345.00

The 2022 has a riper, more succulent fruit profile than usual, offering a playground of little yellow berries, white currants, honey and smoke with nervy acidities and a fair amount of structure on the finish. Valentin explained that this site saw the most severe green harvest, so the grapes ripened and were picked before the rains. A gravel-rich monopole site of 1.9 hectares. Raised exclusively in stainless steel.

Kastanienbusch, Riesling, Grosses Gewächs, Ökonomierat Rebholz [21-23]

2022 £380.00

Light in concentration, full in character, the 2022 Kastanienbusch is put together with a complex, mineral-rich bouquet encompassing iodine, salt, red apple and citrus oils. Denser and grippier on the palate, this is a spice-led, transparent GG that is less standoffish than it can be. The great Kastanienbusch vineyard rises from 150m above sea level to over 300m and is formed of red iron rich soils that are around 320 million years old. It tends to produce complex, powerful Riesling that is nevertheless transparent and full of energy. Raised exclusively in stainless steel.

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Vintage 6x75cl

PART 2 PINOT NOIR (SPÄTBURGUNDER) & CHARDONNAY

ADAMS WEIN

AT PEACE

Germany and Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) have a natural affinity that becomes clearer and more finely tuned with every passing year. Officially third in the Pinot Noir rankings, behind only France and the United States in area under vine, it has taken a little longer for German producers and international consumers to wake up to their world-beating potential.

Over the past few years, the German Pinot topic has cropped up with more regularity, initially as a fine alternative to Burgundy, more recently with great respect to individuality and quality. Across Germany, growers appear to be at greater peace with what they produce. By putting faith back in site and their cool climate, there is far less reliance on new oak and extraction, where previously winemakers were tempted to ape what was considered a more impressive Burgundian style.

One such producer is Dr. Simone Adams, who we introduce for the first time. As a former lecturer at the world famous Geisenheim University, she explains that “I am not afraid of experimentation. On the contrary, questioning facts and looking for better solutions are the best engines of progress.” You might be forgiven for thinking that a winemaker with an academic background would work to a more “technical” style. Not a bit of it. She is one of many in the new generation taking a confident step back. Whole clusters, wild yeast fermentations, German clones, tannins and no wooded tastes. Not only does she want her Ingelheim, limestonerich terroir to shine, she is clear that the variety should have a German identity. “I always want the wines to have a herbaceous nerve – it’s what makes us distinctive. ” Dr. Adams’ wines see an extra year in bottle, so we are offering the 2020s this year.

The vintage on everybody else’s lips is 2021. A capricious, cool year where producers’ inner peace and ultimate faith in the vine – something that the vintage demanded – translates into wines which on the whole are light, with an illuminating, untrammelled feel. Sebastian Furst finds them more introspective and says, “I am confident they will age well, on their freshness not on density.” With respect to the low yields, he draws parallels with 2013; an elegantly styled, classical vintage, from which the wines are now showing beautifully.

Our tastings in Wiesbaden proved that 2021 is not a vintage of uniform success. This is the reality of dealing with a cool year and a fickle grape variety. The Burgundians will tell you that. But what is consistent in the 2021 German reds is a refreshing, aromatic character, with clear differences between region and site. They are restorative, light in alcohol and finely etched. Today we present wines from Rheinhessen, Franken and Baden, proud to say that each is a rousing ambassador of its origin. Classy and inviting with great vitality and spark, they fully reflect the confident young teams behind them.

MARK DEARING

Germany Buyer, Justerini & Brooks,

PART 2 – PINOT NOIR (SPÄTBURGUNDER) & CHARDONNAY PETTENTHAL

PART 2 – PINOT NOIR (SPÄTBURGUNDER) & CHARDONNAY

ADAMS WEIN

PART 2 – PINOT NOIR (SPÄTBURGUNDER) & CHARDONNAY

BUYERS’ PICKSSPÄTBURGUNDER & CHARDONNAY

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ADAMS WEIN (INGELHEIM, RHEINHESSEN)

Brand new to the UK, we are delighted to introduce Adams Wein, a ten hectare estate in the lesser known Ingelheim sub-region of the Rheinhessen. Located just across the Rhine immediately south of the Rheingau, the northern part of the Mainz Basin is all weathered limestone, and this forms the basis for the Adams Wein terroir. Charlemagne is said to have brought Pinot Noir to the area 1100 years ago and it is with this grape that Dr. Simone Adams is making her name. Shooting for a hands-off winemaking style, Simone works with a high proportion of whole clusters, wild yeasts and German clones from her own massale selections. In her words, “I always want the wines to have a herbaceous nerve – it’s what makes us distinctive.” We loved what we tasted here on our first visit, and snapped them up immediately. This is authentic German Spätburgunder with present structure and a spine of tingling acidity throughout. The Ingelheim village Spätburgunder sees around 30% whole bunch and the single vineyards, which are all west facing, near 100%. Aging is carried out in a mix of oak formats for the entry level and barrique for the single vineyards, with minimal new oak. The Chardonnay, which comes from the coolest parcel the estate owns, is aged for a year in oak, 20% new, and is assembled in tank for a further four months before bottling. Enticing, characterful reds and whites made by a young team – a bright future lies ahead.

Lohpfad, Chardonnay, Adams Wein [05-23]

2021 £155.00

A superior nose, leading into a palate of concentration and intensity. Fresh stone fruits are cut through with a citrus-like, cleansing acidity going into a salty finish. The Lohpfad is a smaller site within the Ingelheimer Schlossberg, facing southeast.

It is characterised by clay marl in the subsoil and an upper layer of loam. It is the highest and coolest site that Adams work with. Raised for a year in oak, 20% new, then racked to tank to assemble for four months in contact with the fine lees before bottling.

Ingelheim, Spätburgunder, Adams Wein [07-22]

2020 £90.00

Uplifting, red berried fruit, the village wine is up front, fruit forward with some supporting darker and herbal tones. A blend of the three different soils in Ingleheim: clay, limestone and sand. The vines are of different ages and clones and the grapes are all co-fermented with 30% whole clusters. Raised for twelve months in large, used casks and a further six months in tank.

Heerweg, Spätburgunder, Adams Wein [09-22]

2020 £145.00

Situated on the opposite hill facing the Lohpfad, Heerweg is the lower part of the hill, yielding a charming, warm, accessible style of Spätburgunder. It tends to be the one of the earliest vineyards to ripen. Deep fruits with a rocky spice, red plum skins, tactile tannins and a glowing quality of fruit. On the finish, some herbaceousness and a touch of camphor add an extra kick. A west facing site, the wine is fermented with 100% whole clusters and raised for 18 months in large used casks.

Auf dem Haun, Spätburgunder, Adams Wein [10-22]

2020 £220.00

Auf dem Haun is situated directly above the Heerweg in the steeper, higher part of the slope where the limestone composition reaches 75% in the subsoil. Here, acidity is preserved for longer, which means they can pick later. It is windy and exposed. Lifted, pointed aromatics, the structure and shape of the Auf dem Haun is vertical and ethereal with a certain strictness to the tannins. Simone Adams owns about one hectare here. A west facing site, the wine is fermented with 100% whole clusters and raised for 18 months in used barrique.

Horn, Spätburgunder, Adams Wein [12-22]

2020 £350.00

The Horn vineyard is a recognised VDP. Grosse Lage and one of the region’s best sites. The Adams parcel is in the upper third of the vineyard, where, in addition to limestone, there is a fine layer of silt, which they say ¬makes for even, balanced ripening. 2020 is the first vintage bottled of this wine, offering wonderful breadth and baritone notes with intense, sweeping aromatics that carry its power lightly. Fabulous. Fermented with 100% whole bunches, just two barriques were produced.

Pares, Spätburgunder, Adams Wein [13-22]

2020 £500.00

Historically the most famous vineyard in Ingelheim, Pares is also characterised by limestone and silt. In 2011, Simone Adams cleared a parcel that had been left to grow over and planted it with her own massale selection of the Ritter clone – this shows affinity with whole bunch fermentation as the stems lignify perfectly. Bright and vivid, “right up to the eyes”, we wrote first time around, by which we mean coiled acidities, present tannins and tons of upward, long term potential. A hugely exciting discovery for us.

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PART 2 – PINOT NOIR (SPÄTBURGUNDER) & CHARDONNAY

KÜHLING-GILLOT & BATTENFELD SPANIER

KÜHLING-GILLOT & BATTENFELD SPANIER (HOHEN-SÜLZEN, RHEINHESSEN)

Much has already been said about Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld Spanier. After importing the red wines for the first time last year, we are delighted to have secured UK exclusivity on them going forward. The 2021s prove that 2020 was no onehit-wonder. Obviously, they are more slender than the 2020s, and even at Grosses Gewächs level, they show their wares a little more easily, though this is not a simple range of wines. Gently seductive with an ease that belies their intensity, this is a red wine collection which manages to slake the thirst without ever feeling plain. With regards the GGs, in this moment the Kreuz shows the widest spectrum of flavour, and charms from the beginning. The Kirchenstuck wears the cooler vintage on its sleeve with more race and sparkle – it needs a few more years. Oliver Spanier’s preference for Burgundian clones makes for a nice contrast with Adams Wein. The Kühling-Gillot and Battenfeld Spanier wines, all clearly different, have a shine and all-round classy surface that is influenced, at least in part, by good times spent with friends and family across the border in France. There is a lot to unpack here. For the vineyard work, soils and cellar practices the Pinots are every bit as complex and focused as for the Rieslings. Oliver and Carolin don’t do anything in half measures. Moreover, Spätburgunder will take an increasingly prominent role here as new vineyards come online, and the vines grow older. For as long as Oliver Spanier has anything to say about it, each and every wine needs to stand on its own two feet. In both colours, this is an estate to buy in to before it’s too late.

Spätburgunder, Battenfeld Spanier [65-23]

2021 £75.00

A fresh and juicy Pinot with light, berried fruits, and the crisp moreish character of stony soils. Not a challenging wine but hugely expressive and stylish for a wine of this level

Hohen-Sülzen, Alte Reben, Spätburgunder, Battenfeld Spanier [64-23]

2021 £115.00

The product of purely Burgundian clones, the vines averaging 35 years of age. These were planted by H.O. Spanier when he was just 17 years old. No new oak here, just a deft touch and some rather smart two year old oak barrels ex-Domaine Leroy and Méo-Camuzet. It carries the VDP designation “Aus Ersten Lagen” which means “From Premier Cru Sites”.

Kirchenstuck, Spätburgunder, Grosses Gewächs, Battenfeld Spanier [62-23]

2021 £265.00

Kirchenstuck 2021 appears paler in colour than the others, offering up a fragrant array of tart red berries: cranberry, strawberry and redcurrant are the most clear. The fruit character is on the firmer end of the spectrum, not luscious this year, more pointed and linear. Youthful and vibrant on the palate with a racy acidity. For all that, there are few hard edges here; the actual quality of the fruit is pristine and fully ripe – no trace of greenness or herbaceousness, and texturally there is a lovely polish and shimmering feel to the finish. Kirchenstuck is located in Hohen-Sülzen and is a relatively flat vineyard with a high proportion of limestone and loess. The Grosse Lage section is only a small portion of the site.

Kreuz, Spätburgunder, Grosses Gewächs, Kühling-Gillot [63-23]

2021 £265.00 Kreuz GG wafts from the glass with purpose. Well-delineated notes of strawberry, kirsch and ripe plums prance with cassis and hedgerow fruits. Playful and up front with pliant tannins, it is however no caricature – there are allspice and earth notes too. It’s all delivered in a smooth, easy way, polished by quality French oak. This is a ’21 GG that delivers pleasure from the beginning. Kreuz plays home to the first grafted Burgundian clones in Germany, planted at the same time as Huber’s Wildenstein. The rootstocks in this Oppenheim vineyard are an impressive 70 years old and the plants date back to 1996. On a gentle incline of 30%, facing southeast, the soils are loess and limestone. Aged in French barrique.

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Vintage 6x75cl

RUDOLF FÜRST (BURGSTADT, FRANKEN)

Softly spoken with a smile that extends from ear-to-ear, Sebastian Fürst is regarded as one of Germany’s best Spätburgunder producers, with a familial legacy that extends over four hundred years. Though to meet him you wouldn’t know it, for he is so charming and down to earth that we always wish we had more time there to broach conversation topics far wider reaching than wine. From flower to bottle, harmony is the name of the game, and this is felt in wines which resonate from start to finish. “2021 is a classic year for white and red. It’s not cool in the way that 2010 or 2014 were cool though – I think it is closer to 2013 in that it’s a low yielding vintage with good ripeness and clear, tense fruit. 2021 is a great mix of finesse and power and I am confident that they will cellar well.” The wines were introspective on our visit and are not performative in the style of 2018, 2019 and 2020, which all had a touch of flash to them, albeit in different styles. With time in the glass, the 2021s divulge their layers and a pliant, ripe quality of tannin. There is a serenity to the 2021s and they support clear vineyard profiles with unruffled assurance. The proportion of whole cluster sits at 65% on the Burgstadter Berg, Centgrafenberg and Schlossberg. The normal 100% was retained in the Hundsrück. Fermentations are carried out in open-top wooden vats and basket presses are used to process small batches, gently. Aging is carried out in Burgundian barrique for 13 to 18 months, followed by 5 months in tank on the fine lees. The 2021s were bottled a little earlier than usual, in May 2023.

Pinot Noir, Klingenberg [12-23]

2021 £240.00

A top-drawer village cuvee produced mostly from “young” vines in the Grosse Lage Schlossberg ranging from 22-24 years of age. After a bright entrance, the wine develops subtle ferrous and edgier notes in 2021, with some bittersweet berries. Fermented with 45-50% whole clusters and raised in 20% new French oak.

Pinot Noir, Burgstadter Berg, Erste Gewächs [13-23]

2021 £255.00

The Erste Lage (Premier Cru) Burgstadter Berg acts as the younger sibling to the Centgrafenberg and Hundsrück GGs, being a blend of the two sites. There is a jump in complexity and concentration over the Klingenberg, spanning both black and red fruits, with supporting notes of marzipan, cocoa, thyme and stony spice. There is impressive depth here. Aged in 20% new French oak.

Pinot Noir, Centgrafenberg, Grosses Gewächs [18-23]

2021 £440.00 £465.00

The Centgrafenberg is exquisite. Citrus, orange and Campari notes play in a flock of lifted red fruits. Naturally, there is more concentration and structure here, but the balance is beautiful. A certain crispness to the acidity and briskness to the red and black berries is about the only tell that it comes from a cooler vintage – it is certainly not heavy, nor does the oak dominate at all. Sebastian is confident that his 2021s will go the distance, aging on acid rather than density. On this showing we’d agree – though the wines should be tucked away for a few years. Centgrafenberg has always served as the ‘home’ vineyard of the estate and the steep vineyard terraces here mean that the grapes rarely struggle to achieve good ripeness. Fermented with a slightly reduced 65% whole clusters and aged in French barrique.

Pinot Noir, Schlossberg, Grosses Gewächs [19-23]

2021 £630.00 £655.00

Of th three GGs, Schlossberg is generally the most open-hearted, accessible wine on release. True to form, the 2021 is multi-layered, inviting and ethereal in style, with a more polished quality of tannin, with ripe red fruits, cherries and a spicy core. This feels more mineral and stripped back than other recent vintages, with salt and earth and even a hint of thyme adding a savoury dimension on the finish. Fermented with a slightly reduced 65% whole clusters and aged in French barrique.

Pinot Noir, Hundsrück, Grosses Gewächs [20-23]

2021 £825.00

The jewel in the crown of the Fürst estate, the Hundsrück has been recognised as an individual terroir since at least the 16th century. An intensely rocky, cool site, the wines often require more time to reveal themselves, rewarding those with patience. Stylistically, we see here a complete volte-face after the aristocratically styled 2020. The 2021 is more minimalistic, more reserved, more introspective. Very gradually it builds in the glass, teasing a certain dark fruited power, with hints of spearmint, smoke, herbs and grated nutmeg. Firmer in structure but with the most persistent finish, this is a GG in tight, forceful proportion. Widely agreed to be in the top handful of Germany’s very best red wines. Fermented with 100% whole cluster and aged in French barrique.

Pinot Noir, Grosses Gewächs, Collection Case

Two bottles of each of the GGs in an original wooden case. Limited quantities available.

2021 £635.00

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BERNHARD HUBER (MALTERDINGEN, BADEN)

We hadn’t made it down to Baden by the time of the release this year. Instead, we tasted the Grosses Gewächse in Wiesbaden as part of the Vorpremiere. This is always a hugely instructive exercise, both because one can taste everything side by side in perfect conditions, and because it also allows for direct comparisons between growers, organised by village and site. The Huber range stood head and shoulders above the rest this year, not for the first time. Not only are the Spätburgunders impossibly beautiful and complex, they are intense, individual and intellectual in a style that offers a little of everything. The whites are no slouches either. Top end Chardonnay with rippling drive and athleticism, Julian Huber admits that he loves a taut, stony style. Who doesn’t?

Bienenberg, Chardonnay, Grosses Gewächs, Huber

2021 £TBC

Inviting fruits and flowers, the Bienenberg Chardonnay is tense and offers up fruit notes of firm white peach, fresh apple and citrus with just a lick of salted butter. The palate is pithy with a fine grip and focus. It is sophisticated and beautifully judged with a long finish.

Schlossberg, Chardonnay, Grosses Gewächs, Huber

2021 £TBC

More concentrated than the Bienenberg, Schlossberg is initially more reductive, as rock salt and herbs rest on a core of pear, apple and white currant. Very stony in taste and incredibly saline, it is wound up for the future but it’s absolutely stunning. As ever, just a small amount was produced. The estate has three hectares in the Schlossberg, one for Chardonnay and two for Pinot Noir.

Kondringer, Alte Burg, Spätburgunder, Grosses Gewächs, Huber

2021 £TBC

An enticing, pure bouquet which leads with an array of cool, hedgerow fruits, blueberries and cut flowers. The palate is vital and cleansing, not heavy in any way. In fact it’s really quite refreshing without wanting for concentration. The most open of the GGs today. From vines planted 20 years ago to the south of Malterdingen on similar yellow limestone soils to Bienenberg, the main difference is that the Alte Burg is more wind exposed and there is a uniformity of clones. Aged for around 18 months in French oak barrique.

Bienenberg, Spätburgunder, Grosses Gewächs, Huber

2021 £TBC

In the Huber line-up, Bienenberg has the tightest structure and most salinity, lending sensory credence to all the talk of limestone minerality. Here, it’s back to pointed red fruits: cherry stones, bittersweet raspberries, and fresh plums. The darting acidity and fine, stony tannins somehow recall the wines of the Sierra de Gredos to us, though the polish of the top quality French barrique on the finish brings us back to Pinot Noir. Bienenberg incorporates all the different elements across fruit, flower and stone, packaged up in a highly refined, stylish way. Aged for around 18 months in French oak barrique.

Sommerhalde, Spätburgunder, Grosses Gewächs, Huber

2021 £TBC

Sommerhalde is a little more backward today, requiring a little persuasion to come out of its shell. Initially, it leans in to a bluer and darker fruit spectrum. After a few minutes in the glass it reveals billowy, wind-carried herbs and sloe-like, damson and floral notes. It is beautifully proportioned, supported by a fine tannic spine which nudges against the fruit. Medium-bodied, juicy fruited in feel, it finishes clean and fresh. A real charmer. Sommerhalde is planted at 300m elevation with cooling winds coming down from the forest on top. There is a little more iron in the soil along with loam that helps water retention in warmer years. Aged for around 18 months in French oak barrique.

Schlossberg, Spätburgunder, Grosses Gewächs, Huber 2021 £TBC Luminous and sweeping, Schlossberg is rosehip-central, with a mix of redcurrant, strawberries, raspberries and dustings of stone and earth. Less on the sandalwood and cinnamon, as you sometimes find here, the 2021 is altogether more gentle and reverberating, leaning more towards high toned notes than spice. Schlossberg is a warm site, so the estate has increased the planting density to provide additional shading in the rows. Planted in 1990, it is often one of the more intellectual wines in the range. Aged for around 18 months in French oak barrique.

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COVER: FRITZ HAAG

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