Nº 3 | 2012
jurgita.com
Cool
Fashion Shoots
LONDON
Hunting
Interview with
Fashion Photographer
Ionut Staicu
Tennis + Fashion (R)evolution
„Cool Hunting“ goes Bananas!
NEW FACES
Givenchy, Chanel & Louis Vuitton x Sport
Ready-to-Wear Fall Winter 2012-13
is here! The modeling business is one of the most prestige and visual businesses in the world, a dream of many young girls and boys and an inspiration for millions. A serious business for models, agencies, managers mainly a profitable business tool to promote brands, designers and magazines. Since its inception in the 1940's the modeling business has expanded globally and today with advanced technology model managers can find models and introduce the models within seconds to partner agencies around the globe. With a large and growing community of managers (scouts) and models, the industry has become extremely competitive.
M.A.M.A unites Mother Agents/ “Managers” from around the globe in order to protect the interests of managers and models while keeping a fair balance with the interests of our partner retail agencies and agents and clients.
• “switching models” a plague that is hurting our industry. contracts must be respected. Models have the right to request a switch of managers and or agencies either by mutual consent of both parties of the agreement or by a judge decision. It is the models obligation to get a release of agreement from the court and not the managers/ mother agents. Models with the supervision of managers must not leave agencies with debts and before switching agencies the models and managers must settle outstanding debts or reach an agreement for future settlement of debt. • commissions and commission agreements. Drafting a recommended “MCA” Manager Commission Agreement advised for all members. The agreement will set the basic fundamental rules and regulations of M.A.M.A open to negotiation and most certainly to negotiate the financial terms of the agreement. *it is strictly prohibited of any M.A.M.A. directors or members to mutually agree or set rates on commissions or fees. • contracts/agreements between Managers and Models, MAMA will advise its members on the basic requirements for a proper manager representation agreement. this includes the right to represent the model, model career planning, model placement with partner agencies, negotiate on the models behalf and manage the model activities internationally. • model welfare as managers that have many of times exclusive world wide agreements with models, we must stay alert to the models welfare and wellbeing. M.A.M.A supports the initiatives of various organizations such such as the model alliance and join in making the model business and working conditions a better place for models especially for underage models. • bridging disputes between managers/models/ agents. M.A.M.A.’s, directors, members, volunteers, legal and financial consultants will be made available to consult members in order to guide and possibly resolve disputes or issues with the aim of reaching a mutually agreed bridging solution and thus offering the parties the ability to continue to work together.
Listen to what mama tells you M.A.M.A. M.A.M.A current main agenda topics are:
If you haven’t done it yet join M.A.M.A. today Taking better care of our models and introducing a Model Hotline (www.m-a-m-a.org)
MODELS! You Can Be Here!
Join Us!
Win a Fashion Shoot & Publication in the Magazine JURGITA www.jurgita.com Photographers, Designers, Stylists and Make up Artists! Your Works May be Here! Join Us! www.jurgita.com
It's your TIME! Be visible!
Send us your fashion outfit!
Global
Fashion
If you are really stylish person, you can show that to the world! To be considered for the Global Fashion spread in the magazine, send your photo to: editor@jurgita.com, please include your name, age, location and some notes about your style. All photos must be clear, large, well-lit and show fashion/style. Not all photos can be included in the magazine.
New Faces P r o m o ti o n
• we need nice polaroids or snaps of the model. • some great pictures from the test if possible. • high resolution photos are needed for the magazine, low resolution photos - for the portal. • data of the model: age, height, measurements, location. • data of the mother agency: name, location. • data of agencies she places with (if placed). send the submissions to: editor@jurgita.com note: submission does not guarantee publication. Due to the large volume of submissions we choose the best ones, the most suitable for our magazine. It can happen also that we do not publish it in the next issue, but consider it for future ones, or include them to our portal jurgita.com
www.jurgita.com
Kristina Gromovaite Height: 180 cm Bust: 81 cm Waist: 61 cm Hips: 89 cm
RamutE ValaitytE Height: 176 cm Bust: 79 cm Waist: 60 cm Hips: 89 cm
Jacinta Purauskaite Height: 180 cm Bust: 78 cm Waist: 60 cm Hips: 88 cm
JURGITA Modeling and Fashion magazine Issue 3 / 2012
EDITORIAL Publisher & Founder Ugnius Kiguolis, Jurgita Kiguole Editor-in-chief Sandra Kliukaite Fashion & Art Editor Reda Mickeviciute Senior Designer Justina Juozenaite Advertising Director Milda Zeimiene Photographers Reda Mickeviciute, Theresa Marx, Markus Nikol'a, George Livieratos You Can Be Here. Join Us On www.jurgita.com Contact Us jurgita@jurgita.com
PC „Akropolis” PC „Akropolis” PC „Akropolis” Karaliaus Mindaugo pr. 49 Taikos pr. 61 Ozo g. 25 Kaunas Klaipėda Vilnius
PC „Akropolis” Aido g. 8 Šiauliai
PC „Ozas“ Ozo g. 18 Vilnius
PC „Mega” Islandijos pl. 32 Kaunas
PC „Babilonas” PC „HYPER MAXIMA” V. Kudirkos g. 3 Savitiškio g. 61 Marijampolė Panevėžys
SUMMARY 2 CONTRIBUTION / M.A.M.A. is here! 4 FASHION & STYLE / GLOBAL FASHION 6 FASHION & MODELING / NEW FACES 10 EDITORIAL 12 SUMMARY 15 FASHION & TRENDS // OUTFIT 16 FASHION & PHOTOSESSION // Origami 26 DESIGN / COOL HUNTING // Prada Goes Bananas! 30 DESIGN / COOL HUNTING // Aldo Goes Bananas! 32 FASHION / TRENDS // Pastels 34 INERVIEW / Ionut Staicu, Fashion Photographer: Work in Progress and Progress in Work 40 FASHION & PHOTOSESSION // Walking down the Street 48 FASHION / COOL HUNTING // Givenchy x Sport 50 FASHION / COOL HUNTING // Chanel x Sport 52 FASHION / COOL HUNTING // Louis Vuitton x Sport 54 FASHION & STYLE / FASHION HISTORY // Tennis + Fashion (R)evoliution 58 DESIGN / COOL HUNTING // Inspiration: T.E.N.N.I.S. 60 FASHION & PHOTOSESSION // Sport Hits the Ground 68 DESIGN / COOL HUNTING // Inspiration: L.O.N.D.O.N. 70 FASHION & PHOTOSESSION // 2012 78 DESIGN / MADE IN LITHUANIA // The Sea and Melancholia 84 FASHION & PHOTOSESSION // N.U.D.E. 90 DESIGN / COOL HUNTING // Eco-cult 92 FASHION / CATWALK // Collections Pre-Fall 2012-13 94 FASHION / CATWALK // Collections Fall Winter 2012-13 96 FASHION / CATWALK // Collections Pre-Spring 2013 98 FASHION / INSPIRATION // Thom Browne
Vilniuje, "Panorama", Saltoniškių g. 9, tel. (8 5 ) 219 59 69, Kaune, "Akropolis", K.Mindaugo pr. 49, tel. (8 37) 211 898
Shops promotion
We're always on the lookout for shops for product placement: jewellery, watches, accessories, stationery, clothing, footwear, homewares, bags...! We always feature original, quality items. All items must be available for purchase through your online shop. We adjust images from each online shop - so clear, large photos (preferably on a white background) are a must. Email JURGITA with a link to your shop for consideration at: editor@jurgita.com We will include shops that fit our requirements on affiliate commission basis.
"Balmain"
Jason Wu
"Balmain" ONLINE “Asos” (www.asos.com), “Balmain” (www.balmain.com), Jason Wu (www.jasonwustudio.com), “Mango” (www.mango.com), “Memoir” (www.cremedelacreme.lt), “Topshop” (www.topshop.com).
Jacket „Mango“ ~$ 258 Necklace „Topshop“ ~$ 12 Blouse „Topshop“ ~$ 51 Trousers „Mango“ ~$ 44 Body cream „Memoir“ ~$ 100 Shoes „Topshop“ ~$ 277 Ring „Mango“ ~$ 15 Bag „Asos“ ~$ 133
ORIGAMI
Photography: Reda Mickeviciute (www.redaphoto.com) Design & Style: Laura Dailideniene (www.daili.lt) Make-Up: Ugne Ezerinskaite (www.facebook.com/ugnemakeup) Decorations: Kristina Mikalauskaite Muse (www.stilingamuse.lt) Post-production: Debeselis. Models Gabija and Nida “Supermodels“ You Can Be Here. Join Us On www.jurgita.com Contact Us jurgita@jurgita.com
Fashion designer Laura Dailideniene ("Daili") presents a collection "SEPIA" (f/w 2012). It was inspered by origami.
BOOK THIS MODEL
FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY • we will publish only PRO level of photography. • high resolution photos are needed for the magazine, low resolution photos - for the portal. • minimum 6 photos with different styles, make-up, locations. • photos must be unique. Can not be published in other magazines. • data of all team with the links to their blogs if possible. • this is a non paid contribution – you will get full credit for every image published. • full and correct credits for all images, jurgita magazine is not responsible for the mistakes made in credits. send the submissions to: editor@jurgita.com note: submission does not guarantee publication. Due to the large volume of submissions we choose the best ones, the most suitable for our magazine. It can happen also that we do not publish it in the next issue, but consider it for future ones, or include them to our portal jurgita.com
CONTRIBUTE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY
Be seen by millions!
Photography Reda Mickeviciute (www.redaphoto.com)
Inspiration: B.A.N.A.N.A.S.
Prada Goes Bananas!
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1. Print Shoes “Melissa” (www.coggles.com) ~$ 152; 2. Key ring “Banana Mon-Key” (www.alessi.com) ~$ 20; 3. Bookmarker “Banana Split” (www.alessi.com) ~$ 17; 4. Cube Man Sparkly Pendant Necklace (www.asos.com) ~$ 19; 5. Senso Indiana Neon Strapped Flatform Sandals (www.asos.com) 200; 6. Salt and Pepper Cruet Stand “Banana Bros” by Stefano Giovannoni (www.connox.com) ~$ 46; 7. Play Toy - Kids car by Normann Copenhagen (www.madeindesign.co.uk) ~$ 3.221; 8. Split Cam (www.lomography.com) ~$ 31; 9. Lorissa Spiked Peep Toe Court Shoes by Sam Edelman (www.asos.com) ~$ 288; 10. Camera “Pentax + Marc Newson” (www.colette.fr) ~$ 1.018; 11. Cell phone charm “Mr. Chin” (www.alessi.com) ~$ 15; 12. Y'mie Dinner plate - Set of 2 by Domestic (www.madeindesign.co.uk) ~$ 71; 13. Fridge carafe “Eva Solo” (www.finnishdesignshop.com) ~$ 73; 14. Bulky tea cup by Muuto (www.finnishdesignshop.com) ~$ 36; 15. Oil for hair “Rodin“ by Recine (www.colette.fr) ~$ 71; 16. Oversized Punchout Holdall “Asos” (www.asos.com) ~$ 64; 17. Mill “Banana King” (www.alessi.com) ~$ 61; 18. Drugs Candle by Geneviève Gauckler (www.colette.fr) ~$ 25; 19. Closely Separated vase by Muuto (www.finnishdesignshop.com) ~$ 122; 20. Zyko shoes “Mi-Mai” (www.lexception.com) ~$ 223; 21. Gothic Chair by Studio Job for Moooi (www.moooi.nl) ~$ 384; 22. 22. Electra Amsterdam Classic 3i Yellow Tulip Bike (www.bikemore.at) ~$ 935. www. jurgita .com
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Aldo Goes Bananas with!
For its Summer 2012 "Stay Cool" ad campaign, Aldo tapped go-to photographer Terry Richardson to snap model Anais Pouliot against an infectiously fun and vibrant backdrop of stacked bananas...
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1. Cell phone charm “Banana charm” (www.alessi.com) ~$ 14; 2. T-Shirts Art Bananas by Christopher Lee Sauvé (www.christopherleesauve.com) ~$ 16.95; 3. Keyhole Sunglasses With Metal Lens Detail & Contrast Lens (www.asos.com) ~$ 19; 4. Socket lamp by Muuto (www.finnishdesignshop.com) ~$ 73; 5. Kitsch Banana Barette (www.asos.com) ~$ 12; 6. Zatchels Leather Barrel Bag (www.asos.com) ~$ 52; 7. Plaisir Glacés (www. hugovictor.com) ~$ 9; 8. Camera – Buttercup “Diana F+” (www.lomography.com) ~$ 142; 9. Book „Marilyn Monroe“ by Taschen (www.couturelab.com) ~$ 1.042; 10. Moschino Cheap and Chic Ninfea Cut Out Flat Shoes (www.asos.com) ~$ 537; 11. T-Shirt Baja “Denim & Supply by Ralph Lauren” (www.coggles.com) ~$ 64; 12. Banana Handbag Charm (www.asos.com) ~$ 8; 13. Wire Table lamp “Panton 1972” by Verpan (www.madeindesign.co.uk) ~$ 1.147; 14. Timepiece out of Milan „O Clock“ (www.oclock-usa.com) ~$ 36; 15. Powder Brush (www.asos.com) ~$ 16; 16. Earplug-Set „Silent Night - Holy Night“ (www.donkey-products.com) ~$ 6; 17. Rimmel London Scandal‘eyes Mascara (www.rimmellondon.com) ~$ 6.99; 18. Postcard COLETTE x DARCEL (www.colette.fr ) ~$ 6; 19. Duii Table Lamp by Diesel (www.occa-home.co.uk ) ~$ 408; 20. Book „The Pedro Almodovar Archives“ by Taschen (www.couturelab.com) ~$ 168; 21. Earphones „Skullcandy“ (www.apple.com) ~$ 49.
www. jurgita .com
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FASHION & STYLE TRENDS
Earrings “Topshop” ~$ 12 Jacket “Zara” ~$ 202 Shoes “Topshop” ~$ 85
Cardigan “Topshop” ~$ 54 “3.1 Phillip Lim” Shoes “Topshop” ~$ 71
Dress “Topshop” ~$ 49 Dress “Topshop” ~$ 59 Blouse “Topshop” ~$ 51
Pastels Shoes “Asos” ~$ 120
Diane von Fürstenberg
Skirt “Topshop” ~$ 92
Collar “Topshop” ~$ 85
Blouse “Warehouse” ~$ 56
Shoes “Asos” ~$ 49
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www. jurgita .com
Shoes “Asos” ~$ 96
Blouse “Topshop” ~$ 45
Shoes “Asos” ~$ 120
Earrings “Topshop” ~$ 5 Blouse “Topshop” ~$ 78
Necklace “Topshop” ~$ 21
Shoes “Asos” ~$ 85
Blouse “Topshop” ~$ 51 Prada Dress “Topshop” ~$ 65
Skirt “Topshop” ~$ 170 Dress “Topshop” ~$ 113
Dress “Topshop” ~$ 68
Zara Shoes “Asos” ~$ 63
Shoes “Asos” ~$ 63
Zara
www. jurgita .com
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CONTRIBUTION
All credits @ Ionut Staicu and cover @ Harper's Bazaar Romania.
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www. jurgita .com
Interview with
Ionut Staicu,
Fashion Photographer: Work in Progress and Progress in Work
Ionut Staicu belongs to the finest lensmen of Romania and Eastern Europe as a whole. The relatively late interest in fashion in such countries was, for a long time, an issue for local creative people and, actually can still be seen as a concern since the codes and standards of high fashion aren't always accepted or understood. From those who blatantly copy what is done in western fashion capitals to the others who promote a rather tacky style of photography, the landscape in Romania and its neighbourhood didn't exactly favor the emergence of young talents or original magazines. Even if this trend is (slowly) changing, the main topic of a conversation with Ionut often turns around the difficulties for a photographer like him to build a decent career in his home country or start interesting projects there. Sometimes positive, calm and faithful, and sometimes brutally honest about the business he is working in, Staicu's vision and thoughts shed some light on the current challenges an artist working fashion has to face in a market still considered as "in development".
CONTRIBUTION How did you start your career as a fashion photographer? What made you interested in photography and why fashion became the main part of your work? After military school I started working as a photo journalist. However, I realized that this was not for me, because I wanted to build my own stories. At that time there were no modeling agencies, soI had to find girls on the street and ask them to pose for me. Later I moved to the capital, Bucharest, and started to do the first shootings for the magazines that had just come to Romania (1999). I guess I’ve always had a way of thinking “in images”, and through photography I could materialize my ideas, I’ve always been better in pictures than in words. First my photos were based on attitude, expression of people, interesting features and I was less interested in what they were wearing. it took me 3-4 years to understand the fashion part, its importance and how to integrate it in my stories. Are there any persons, photographers or others, who inspire you in your work? I’ve always informed myself about other photographers work and tried to understand the subtleties of their work. I especially like Guy Bourdin, Helmut Newton, Mario Sorrenti, Glen Luchford, Paolo Roversi,Peter Lindbergh.
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www. jurgita .com
,, ...I wanted to build my own stories What are your current or recurrent inspirations? What is important in an image, according to you? My inspiration comes from a good location, an interesting face, and also from comic books. A good image needs good elements, in order to remain that way a long time. However, I consider the most important element is the human one, in the center of attention is the personality of the person, make-up hair style help building the character.
In many people's mind, fashion is mostly a matter of clothes. This vision is, I dare to think, slightly too simple if you keep in mind the greatest fashion stories published in well-known magazines. A significant part of the visuals relies on the atmosphere (light, background...) and on the characters (in other words: the models). How would you evaluate the importance of each ingredient behind a good photograph? For sure fashion is not all about clothes. Fashion photography is not putting together some expensive clothes in a soft box light, this is what I consider a mediocre photographer would do. The mood is very important in a good photo, it needs to have emotion, to tell you something. You can do fashion stories based on modern dance choreography, theatre, painting, a movie character. But in order to get a good picture it’s necessary for your team to have the same visual language as yours and to be creative, not only reproduce things that were made before. You are based in Romania, which is not really one of the main countries when it comes to fashion magazines. How about the daily difficulties you face and have to deal with? First of all, your statement is true! In Romania, unfortunately, people have the impression that they are good in everything and they can’t help doing their own job, without expressing their opinion in others' work. Sometimes the stylists choose the model and location without talking to the photographer and some even would give indications on how to make the pictures. I’d rather not work with these kind of stylists, but since the market is so small, sometimes I have to, but without any creativity, I know that in such terms the final product would be bad. Another problem is the fact that since the stylist, make up artist and hair stylist don’t work as a team, each of them want to show off their work as much as they can, meaning they put too much of everything: clothes, accessories, make-up, colors, hairspray and the result is a forced so called “fashion editorial”. Anyway, in Romania there is no mature critic towards fashion, there is no credible opinion to tell what is good and what is wrong, probably because it’s a new business in Romania, starting with 1997. I have spent a few months in Bucharest myself and had the opportunity to see what kind of
www. jurgita .com
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CONTRIBUTION materials are published in the likes of Elle and Harper's Bazaar, what kind of styling is popular in these publications. Obviously, there is a difference between what I would call your purely personal work and what you produce for local clients like the two magazines I mentioned. I know this is an issue that every artist has to handle, even in New York or Paris. How do you overcome it, if you do? Or do you simply separate commercial requests from artistic work? Regarding the previous answer, as things are as they are in Romania, it is necessary to have personal projects in order to do the kind of photography that I like. There are few of my commercial projects that I consider good. As for the personal work, i try to find new people, passionate ones, to work with. It takes enthusiasm to became better and make new things. You have already traveled a bit and, I guess, you are looking for more opportunities like this in the future. What were the main differences between the Romanian market and what you have experienced abroad? Does working for a model agency really differs from one market with a small fashion market like your home country to one like Milan where you've worked for bigger companies? Would a "good picture" work anywhere or does everyone have his own requests related to his market's specificities? The main problem is that the Romanian market is not mature enough as the ones abroad. There are not so many branded companies, magazines, advertising jobs. The difference between a model agency in Romania anda good one in Milan for example, is the quality standard that they put in photography. They
I don’t agree with too much photoshop
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would appreciate a simple, but good photo, unlike the complicated taste of romanians. A good girl can not be built in Romania, because agents here don’t how to manage her, what photos she needs, where to place her and so on. I think any superior fashion market would appreciate a good photo, because I think the standards are pretty much the same regarding beauty in general, even if every market has a specific commercial way, based on the personality of its consumers. The rise of digital photography has changed many things in fashion and modeling businesses, at every level and in every process. Model agencies aren't restricted to polaroids anymore and can get dozens of test pictures at low prices for their new faces while magazines tend to use retouching a bit too often. As this is a global trend, what is your opinion on this recent evolution? What are, according to you, the positive and negative impacts of such changes? Is it mainly a loss of quality or do you prefer to focus on the new opportunities brought by technology? I find rather inappropriate the term of “digital photography”. The fact that the capture support changed, doesn’t mean that also the way of image perception changed. Both photography on film and on digital have the same aesthetic rules. Retouching exists since the photography was invented. At the begging it was made manually, by a painter. I agree with retouching when it is assumed to be overdone, for example if the theme of the photo is a fairy tale, or it is based on a painting or comic book (Sin City). I like very much the work of Eugenio Recuenco, Erwin Olaf. In general, I don’t agree with too much photoshop used to change face structure, or over retouching the skin so it looks unreal, especially if we are talking about tests. I do use retouching, but only for minor imperfections and to improve the quality of the picture regarding tones, colors, contrast, graphics, filters. Let's have a few words about the future... First, how do you see yours, as a photographer. Any new projects in progress, plans to move? And besides your own, how do you see the future evolution of the market in Romania and in surrounding countries? Central and Eastern Europe didn't have a lot of fashion publications, strictly speaking, except franchises like Elle, Glamour, Harper's Bazaar or Marie-Claire.
fashion is not all about clothes
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We're witnessing now the upheaval of more or less independent magazines like The Room in Hungary. Those projects are great but have to face financial difficulties, perhaps more than their western counterparts. Do you see some positive perspectives for such projects and then, would you involve yourself in contributing to the birth of an alternative fashion press in your area? Now I’m starting to do something new for Romania, to bring girls from other markets for editorials and other jobs here. I hope by this, I will connect Romania more to the mature markets and obtain a feedback on the work here from abroad. I do plan to travel more and spend more time abroad, a breath of fresh air is always good for inspiration. In my opinion it will take longer for magazines such
as The Room to appear in Romania. Of course, I would like to be part of such a project, but it needs more people to share the same vision and as I said, it’s to early to talk about it... www. jurgita .com
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WALKING DOWN the STREET
Photography: Theresa Marx Make-Up: PinHua Liu Hair: Yan Liu Assistant: Maria Morath Model: Agne Zapasnykaite „Supermodels“ You Can Be Here. Join Us On www.jurgita.com Contact Us jurgita@jurgita.com
BOOK THIS MODEL
MODELS NEW FACES
NEW
Faces
Let's talk about Ugne! Ugne is Lithuanian and she is represented by Supermodels management. She is just 15yrs old and there is something about her in our opinion. Ugne has great features and beautiful eyes. We have to admit that she definitely stands out from other models. It's seems that Ugne's future in fashion business will be bright and beautiful because she has many big offers that we can't reveal you at the moment. Just relax and wait. She is definitely a girl to watch and we are looking forward to see what else she's capable of!
Full name: Ugne Andrijauskaite Mother Agency: Supermodels Model Management Booker: rasa@supermodels.lt Nationality: Lithuanian Birth date: 3st November 1998 Height: 177 cm (5’9”) Bust: 81 cm (31,8”) Waist: 59 cm (23,2”) Hips: 83 cm (32,7”) Eyes: Blue Hair: Brown
PROMOTE YOUR NEW FACE
UgnE AndrijauskaitE
BOOK NOW
Givenchy X Sport
www.givenchy.com
Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 Photography Karl Lagerfeld Models Saskia de Brauw, Joan Smalls
Chanel X Sport
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1. Grained rubber rugby ball with CHANEL signature; 2. Horse-riding helmet of aluminium and composite; 3. Bocce set in a braided wicker-and-leather basket; 4. Aluminum Hand-assembled bicycle with quilted calfskin seat and three bags – including a make-up case with CHANEL signature logo; 5. Bi-color polyurethane and fibreglass surfboard delivered with a CHANEL travelling case; 6. Set of three CHANEL signature golf clubs; 7. Grained rubber basketball with CHANEL signature; 8. Monochrome carbon fiber surfboard delivered with a CHANEL signature cover; 9. Inflatable raft holds up to three people; 10. Deodorant Stick “Allure Homme Sport by Chanel” 75ml/2oz 11. Two carbon beach raquets with CHANEL logo.
www.chanel.com www. jurgita .com
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Louis Vuitton X Sport
"Maradona, Pele, Zidane" Print Ad for Louis Vuitton Handbags by „Ogilvy & Mather“, Paris.
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1. Louis Vuitton Louis Vuitton Boxing Gloves; 2. Louis Vuitton Fencing Mask; 3. Louis Vuitton Sneaker; 4. Louis Vuitton Epee (long sword) and Fencing Jacket; 5. Louis Vuitton Foosball Table;6. Louis Vuitton Boxing Pear; 7. Louis Vuitton Meteor Sneaker “boot” in suede calf leather; 8. Louis Vuitton Tambour Diver Chronograph for Only Watch; 9. Louis Vuitton Jump Rope; 10. Louis Vuitton Bike; 11. Louis Vuitton Balls.
www.louisvuitton.com
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FASHION & STYLE F A S H IO N H I S TOR Y
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s Sa Ch a n i n t el H L J e a Ra l p e r m e a u r e nt nP hL s au aur l L o La c Gu i e n E m u i s os t e l t i e r por Vu i t to io Ar m ma ni
TENNIS+
Fashion (R)evoliution Tennis has a long history dating back to the Roman ages. The History of tennis game was developed from a 12th century French handball game called " Jeu de Paume". The game became very popular, especially in France, where was adopted by the royal family. In the year of 1316 French king Louis X dies after hard "Jeu de Paume" game (other terms of this stage of game are Royal Tennis in Great Britain), but this death does null to damp the popularity of the recreation. In 1877, the very first World Tennis Championship was held at Worple Road in Wimbledon, London. In the 135-year history of Wimbledon, the tennis apparel worn by tennis players has changed drastically. The first women to play in the tournament wore fulllength dresses as their tennis apparel...
The Victorian era
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Men wore tennis clothing that was very similar to their daily wardrobe with balloon-like shorts tucked into stockings. Rubber soled shoes were introduced in 1867. Female players wear hats, gloves, and heavy floorlength dresses (often wool) with bustles and trains that must be carried in their free hand. May Sutton and Suzanne Lenglen were l n t women's instrumental in n echanging e r a au Ch wore clothing. Sutton father's shirt t L her s n n i e a e S rolledmher rsleeves and Lenglen r up to v es H e r L a u i l ti e Y gain more movement. l ph Gu Ra Pa u l os te m n L a c i t to n i w w w. j urgita .com Jea Vu rm a s i A u
Wimbledon + Vogue
With Wimbledon—the oldest tennis tournament in the world—currently underway in England, a look through our archives reminds us that there was once a time when women practiced their backhand not in neon spandex, but wearing lace-up corsets, court-length skirts, ladylike slippers, and even, on occasion, a well-placed fur. Henry "Bunny" Austin wore shorts at Wimbledon, starting a fashion revolution in tennis. Tennis apparel remained white while short lengths changed over the years based on style, while women's skirts got shorter and more daring. In 1917, the dancer Irene Castle models tenniswear in Vogue. Wearing an innovative bandeau on her head, Suzanne Lenglen wins the Olympic tennis championship in Antwerp, in a drop-waist silk dress by Jean Patou. In 1926, Vogue reports that Mme Vionnet has added a sports-clothing department to her Paris boutique. Nothing created more of a stir than when Gertrude Moran played in the 1949 Championships. She wore a regulation white dress trimmed with white satin. Beneath this was a pair of lace trimmed panties. This was the start of the daring fashion statements of tennis apparel that have graced Wimbledon since that time.
Mademoiselle Coco Chanel
Women’s fashion liberation Yv begins when Coco Chanel her es creates Ch S first collection, based on free-flowing a i a njersey n t el R H J e of sport. and informed by her love “I a e La a n l p rminvented ur h sport suits for me. Not because other Pa L eswomen e a u u rplayingn t La lI Gwas were playing sports,EbutL obecause m u i co u en them,”- designer Coco Chanel po s Voncestsaid. i r i u i e l ti e o r A r t tom m an i w w w. j urgita .com
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el ren t n a u FASHION & STYLE Ch t La a i n r m es r e n r F A S H IO N H I S TOR Y S s ti e He ofLthe a u revolutionary l Yv e i She was talking, specifically, l ph u l Gue a R years around the start of the tWorld War, Pa first c os i t t o m n i n a a when she stitched her very J e firstL collections: Vu rm aUsing s i free-flowing jersey and pleating u that Aallowed for L o or i o p fashion forever increased mobility, she changed Em by offering women athletics-influenced pieces that were unrestricting and worn without a corset. By the 1920s, stylish women had begun to follow Chanel’s lead. All the best Paris designers—Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet – sold outfits for them to wear on the tennis court.
Tennis “couture“
French champ René Lacoste, nicknamed Le Crocodile, creates a unique, short-sleeved shirt using lightweight material sourced from a London manufacturer. It is a courtside sensation. In July, Vogue’s cover features an illustration of a player in a sleeveless V-neck dress, worn with a Lenglenstyle headdress. In 1933, René Lacoste begins selling his tennis shirts—in white “petite piqué,” with the iconic crocodile logo. They are a bellwether of the century’s later all-consuming obsession with logos and branding. In the late 1940s a championship-winning English tennis and table tennis player – Fred Perry was approached by Tibby Wegner, an Austrian footballer. Wegner's next idea was to produce a sports shirt, which was to be made from white knitted cotton pique with short sleeves and a buttoned placket like René Lacoste's shirts. Launched at Wimbledon in 1952, the Fred Perry tennis shirt was an immediate success. Ralph Lauren designed the Polo fashion line in 1968. While traditional styles of polos have a buttoned placket (just as Mr. Lacoste originally designed), you can also find styles that are even more casual without buttons. Long-sleeve polos, are perfect for chilly days out on the golf course or on the tennis court Ralph Lauren women.
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"Rock star" of tennis
Bjรถrn Borg is a former world no. 1 tennis player from Sweden. Bjorn Borg was also known for his great looks on and off the court. Borg went on to start his own clothing line that was a huge success in Sweden. His label has since become extremely successful second only to Calvin Klein in his home country. On the court the blonde Adonis donned awesome Fila gear (and Diadora tennis shoes) that still inspires fashion and films (The Royal Tenenbaums). The cooperation of Swedish tennis legend Bjorn Borg and Italian fashion company Fila is one of the most famous and successful chapters of tennis fashion history. Some of those clothes belong to the most beautiful tennis and lifestyle wear ever created. Borg was well known for his signature look of an on-court polo and, post-match, a zip jacket that blended a classic look with strong '70s styling. Many fine collections were released between 1975 and 1986. Color was introduced into tennis apparel by the way of stripes getting bolder as the decades moved on. Wimbledon still predominantly maintains a white wardrobe to retain its classic history, with a splash of color being accepted in the 1990s. Now, players like Serena Williams are making fashion statement everytime they step on to the courtY with Ctighth an ve el a i n or fitting bodys Ssuits t La H exotic colored m es u r e n t Ra l e rtwoph as J e a n outfits piece Pa u L a u r e n l their signature L a c G u i l ti L o apparel. os t er tennis E m p u is Vu i e t to or i o A rm m an i w w w. j urgita .com 57
COOL HUNTING D E S IG N
3. 1. 2.
René Lacoste – French tennis player and founder of the "Lacoste".
Inspiration:
4.
"Lacoste" ad campaign, photo by Terry Richardson.
T.E.N.N.I.S.
5. 6.
9.
8.
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12.
10. Vintage Tennis Poster. 11.
13. 15. 14.
16.
"Hermes".
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1. Vintage Tennis Racquets "Kate Spade Tennis"; 2. Boxer Shorts "Björn Borg SUNRISE" (www.bjornborg.com) ~$ 37; 3. Peru Vintage Tennis White Trainers "luke 1977" (www.vanmildert.com) ~$ 70; 4. Tennis Dress (www.modcloth.com) ~$ 164; 5. Watch "Lacoste" (www.lacoste.com) ~$ 95; 6. Vintage Tennis Plimsolls "Fred Perry" (www.topman.com) ~$ 84; 7. Composite tennis racket with Chanel signature (www.chanel.com); 8. Tennis Sneakers "Dsquared2" (www.ssense.com) ~$ 510; 9. Charm "Lacoste" (www.lacoste.com) ~$ 73; 10. Set of 4 tennis balls with "Chanel" logo (www.chanel.com); 11. Polo Ralph Lauren US Open Blue Tennis Visor Hat Cap (www.ralphlauren.com) ~$ 45; 12. Graphite tennis racket with retro wood effect "Chanel" (www.chanel.com); 13. Pin "Lacoste" (www.lacoste.com) ~$ 39; 14. Ralph Lauren Polo Skull Crossbones Wrist Sweat Band Tie (www.ebay.com) ~$ 18; 15. Set of Shorts "Björn Borg" (www.bjornborg.com) ~$ 58; 16. Vintage Tennis Plimsolls "Fred Perry" (www.topman.com) ~$ 76.
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1. 8.
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14. 10.
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21. 25. 24. 23.
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1. Kate Spade Racquet Bag "Tennis Anyone?" (www.katespade.com) ~$ 198; 2. Kate Spade Tennis Bag "Hold Court Quinn" (www.katespade.com) ~$ 298; 3. T-shirt "Polo by Ralph Lauren" (www.ralphlauren.com); 4. Kate Spade Tennis ball coin purse (www.katespade.com) ~$ 98; 5. Wilson US Open 3 Ball Pack Tennis Balls (www.wilson.com) ~$ 4,19; 6. Kate Spade Tennis Matches (www.katespade.com); 7. Vintage Tennis Mid GreenWhite Cracked Leather Trainers "Fred Perry" (www.fredperrymall.com) ~$ 70; 8. Carafe - Drip-free carafe 1,4 L "Eva Solo" (www.evasolo.com) ~$ 63,98; 9. Sunglasses "Lacoste" (www.lacoste.com) ~$ 138 (~352,98 Lt); 10. Tennis By Pancho Gonzales Hardcover Book 1962; 11. Water Bottle "San Pellegrino" (www.sanpellegrino.com) 12. Bjรถrn Borg LLOYD - High-top Trainers (www.bjornborg.com) ~$ 114; 13. French Cane Tennis Racket Set with "Chanel" logo (www.chanel.com); 14. Tennis Instructor Sigg Water Bottle (www.sigg.com) ~$ 24; 15. Lacquered graphite tennis racket "Chanel" (www.chanel.com); 16. Vintage Tennis Ball Canister "Wilson" (www. etsy.com) ~$ 11; 17 Kate Spade Tennis Ball Lacey (www.katespade.com) ~$ 158; 18. Bjรถrn Borg LOVE SHAKE - Boxer Shorts (www.bjornborg.com) ~$ 37; 19. Perspex Top Visor "Asos" (www.asos.com) ~$ 18,18; 20. Adidas Men's ORIGINALS SPEED TENNIS shoes (www.adidas.com) ~$ 58; 21. Charm "Lacoste" (www.lacoste.com) ~$ 73; 22. Adidas Tennis BlackWhite Leather Trainers (www.adidas.com) ~$ 61; 23. Bag "Adidas" (www.adidas.com) ~$ 59; 24. Book "Tennis Fashion" (www.assouline.com) ~$ 25;25. iPhone case "Kate Spade Tennis" (www.katespade.com) ~$ 40.
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the GROUND Photography: Markus Nikol'a Style: Milda Metlovaite Hair Style: Adas Ceplaitis Make-up: Giedrė Marcinonytė. Post-production: Anastasija Sch Photographer‘s Assistant: Andrius Burba Models: Gerda, Aleksandra and Grete „Supermodels“
BOOK THIS MODEL
COOL HUNTING D E S IG N
"London City" Car "Aston Martin Cygnet & Colette (Limited Edition)" (www.astonmartin.com, www.colette.fr) ~$ 70.000
Nutcase Bike Helmet - Union Jack (www.pedlars.co.uk) ~$ 74
Tea Party "Royal Tea" (www.donkey-products.com) ~$ 9 Cream Market Print Shopper Bag "Topshop" ~$ 13
Inspiration:
Camera with Flash "La Sardina Fischers Fritze" (www.lomography.com) ~$ 106
Watch "Burberry Sport" (www.burberry.com) ~$ 402
L.O.N.D.O.N.
Newspaper stand, bluecreated by the designers Ingrid Svensson and Olle Wing책rd (www.finnishdesignshop.com) ~$ 129
T-shirt "Topshop" ~$ 29
"London City"
Colette x SIGG Water Bottle (www.colette.fr) ~$ 42 Sneakers and basketball "Fab Five: Elesse X Colette" (www.colette.fr)
Inside "Aston Martin Cygnet & Colette" Motorcycle "Super Motor X Colette" (www.colette.fr)
Opener "Underground" (www.pedlars.co.uk) ~$ 12
Sunglasses "Diesel" (www.diesel.com)
Seven London Sterling Silver Gambling Roll Cufflinks (www.asos.com) ~$ 81
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Vivienne Westwood
"Old School" Vintage Style Camera Pendant Watch "Asos" (www.asos.com) ~$ 27
"Dolce & Gabbana" A/W 2011-2012
Cardigan "Asos" (www.asos.com) ~$ 54
Sunglasses "Ray-Ban" (www.ray-ban.com)
Flat Round Sunglasses "Asos" (www.asos.com) ~$ 16
Watch "Michael Kors" (www.asos.com) ~$ 271
Ring "Diamante Heart" by Vivienne Westwood (www.asos.com) ~$ 201
Cardigan "Asos" (www.asos.com) ~$ 54
"Dolce & Gabbana" A/W 2011-2012 Cambridge Satchel Company 15 Vintage Leather Batchel Backpack (www.asos.com) ~$ 189 Moustache Button Stud Earrings "Asos" (www.asos.com) ~$ 8
Speck 15 Fitted Case for MacBook Pro (www.apple.com) ~$ 69
Jacey Withers Egg Cup Box (www.asos.com) ~$ 75
Briefcase Satchel Bag (www.topshop.com) ~$ 51
"Old School"
Moisture Cream "Paul & Joe", 32ml (www.asos.com) ~$ 34
Retro Clear Lens Geeky Specs "Asos" (www.asos.com) ~$ 16 Earrings "Diamante Heart" by Vivienne Westwood (www.asos.com) ~$ 95
Cath Kidston Red And Blue London Charm Bracelet (www.asos.com) ~$ 42
McQ by Alexander McQueen Mens Footwear (www.m-c-q.com)
The Beatles "The Singles Vol 2" (Set of 4) (www.designshopuk.com) ~$ 13
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2012 2012 Fashion designers Diana Kuzmickaite and Ausra Urbanaviciute present a collection of apocalyptic feeling "2012." "It's an imaginary incident, which killed all mankind and the globe, humanity. Figuratively to mean an event that shattered society or human life, causing a sudden change in living style, worldview, and so on. Fear of the future? Conversion ".
BOOK THIS MODEL
Photography and Style: Reda Mickeviciute (www.redaphoto.com) Clothes: Diana Kuzmickaite & Ausra Urbanaviciute Make-Up and Hair Style: Greta Subataviciute Model Justina “Supermodels“ You Can Be Here. Join Us On www.jurgita.com Contact Us jurgita@jurgita.com
Crème de la Crème
Vilniuje, PANORAMA. Tel. (8 5) 219 59 69; Kaune, AKROPOLIS. Tel. (8 37) 21 18 98
Pasaulinė premjera - balandžio 7 dieną. Kaina: 950 lt
Design M ade i n L ith u a n ia
LITHUANIAN
D e sign III:
THE SEA
Canvas „Distance“
Paint by Kristina Alisauskaite (www.roostergallery.eu) This painting is from the artist's series entitled "Distance", which explores both physical and emotional distance, as well as each person's perspective of themselves and their surroundings. Oil on stretched canvas.
Massage Towel „Algiecas“
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Design by Ona (www.ona.com)
Beach Tote „Marinus“
OK, these aren't exactly the softest towels in the world. But they aren't meant to be! Algiecas massage towels are supposed to do just that - massage. These antiallergenic towels improve circulation and gently exfoliate for healthy skin. They are ultra-absorbent and prevents static.
Design by Ona (www.ona.com)
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Fun on the go! Be prepared for your next picnic or beach outing with Marinus tote. Heavy linen spread comes with a matching bag so you can pack all of your tools...
FUTURE SENTIMENTS UNISEX T-SHIRT Design by Future Sentiments (www.futuresentiments.com) Magical, exceptional and architecturally tailored garments with a special message for the Future. Future Sentiments is an independent experimental brand aiming to reinterpret classical everyday wardrobe, creating simple and wearable pieces with a subtle twist. The ones you always wanted but never found. Established in Amsterdam late 2010 by architects duo with intention to design smaller scale objects that could reach people in a more immediate and intimate way, it is a blend of nowadays visual culture overload and architectural mindset.
Wearable Accessories „Color Folklor“ Design by Okiiko (www.okiiko.eu) WEIRD but still very LOVELY, - says OKIIKO - oki / Laura and Eivaras 2 people in 1 playground colorful / minimalistic / iconic / playful accessories.
Earrings „Bottomless Blue“ Design by Zivile Pociute & Angele Markauskaite (www.stikliukai.lt) Simply enticing... Handformed glass.
Earrings „Spring.Water“ Design by Lina Nenartonyte-Auste (www.ona.com) Hand-formed glass earings made by glass artist.
T-shirt „LITHUANIA“ Design by Kata Kiosk (www.katakiosk.lt) Kata Kiosk is an illustrated products brand, run from Vilnius, Lituania by professional illustrator Kotryna Zukauskaite, who has passion for collages, scissors&craft paper, ornaments, patterns and greeting cards.
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grožis ir laisvalaikis pagami n ta liet u v oje
AMBER kaleidoscope Design by Zilvinas Stankevicius (www.contraforma.com) AMBER kaleidoscope - According to the old Lithuanian legend, the wonderful AMBER palace in the depths of the Baltic Sea was broken into thousands of tiny pieces by angry God of Thunder PERKUNAS, punishing the sea goddess JURATE for her love of the mortal fisherman KASTYTIS. The amber pieces collected in this Kaleidoscope will give you a tiny glance of the unique beauty of this legendary palace. These handmade environmentally-friendly kaleidoscopes are made from fast-growing hazel branches and filled with natural Baltic amber. The minimalist design is energyand resource-efficient. Materials: body: fast-growing hazel; filling: natural Baltic amber.
Canvas „Men“ Paint by Kristina Alisauskaite (www.roostergallery.eu) This painting is from the artist's series entitled "Distance", which explores both physical and emotional distance, as well as each person's perspective of themselves and their surroundings. Oil on stretched canvas.
Accessories „LOVELY.LT“ Design by Agne Jasiuleviciute-Kalinkina (www.lovely.lt) Cute hand-made jewelery inspired by love.
„Morka Project“ hand-made soap Design by Prim Prim (www.primprim.lt) The task of Morka Project is to find some sex and fun in the green thinking mania. The project was started by Kotryna Zilinskiene, Ieva Viciene, and Vytenis Zilinskas in 2009. Eko-fetish design objects are whips made of used bicycle inner tubes, broshes-underwear of plywood waste from the furniture factory, condom pockets of useless fabric scraps and other naughty looking re-made design objects. For those who wish to look at the green daily routine from the different angle. 80
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Ice-Cream Kiosk Stickers with Idea Design by StickerDesign (www.stickerdesign.eu) Choose your favourite stickers! Three categories: Food series, Swicher marking, Always Coffee. Say no to boredom!
ICE CREAM T-SHIRT Design by Denis Kuchta (www.deniskuchta.com) Limited Edition. Fabric - 100% cotton. Silk-screen print.
„Ho-Ld“ ThermoMark cups Design by made>in>mo°n (www. madeinmoon.com) „We are a small community in the moon. We live close to the stars and their closeness inspires us with ideas encouraging visions of the future“ the authors of this message - a new design group / made>in>moon/ - chose to present their brand in a quite unexpected and intriguing way. There are plastic cups with special thermo mark.
Ice-Cream „Naive“: absolute top quality natural raw materials Hand-made by Naive (www.chocolatenaive.com Chocolate Naive is a small chocolate and ice cream manufacture set in a stunning corner of Lithuania, just a few steps away from the Kiementas lake. At Chocolate Naive, one of 150 such producers worldwide, the production cycle starts with a cacao bean. Top class cacao beans are diligently selected from exceptional farms. It is then transported via the old seaways of Spanish conquistadors to Europe and, finally, to Giedraiciai, home of Chocolate Naive. An intimate, family-owned dairy farm is supplying Chocolate Naive with the finest milk and cream for the ice cream production. As for the eggs, we believe happy chickens lay good eggs, so we’ll source the eggs in your ice cream from chickens on cage-free, free-range farm near Giedraiciai as well. Chocolate Naive manufactures traditional and unusual flavors of finest super-premium ice cream, be it plain vanilla or parsley flavor.
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Melancholie Diana Paukstyte F/W 2012-13 Â Photographer Tomas Vysniauskas www.creep.lt Design Diana Paukstyte Make-Up Artist Vaida Navickaite Hairdresser Andrius Masauskas Model Dalia Dubrindyte
Below the
Sky
Make-Up: Agne Morkunaite Dekere Agne Valaitiene Designers: Lilija Larionova Egidijus Rainys Photography: Giedrius Bubliauskas Model: Silvija Klimasauskaite (Supermodels)
BOOK THIS MODEL
DEISGN E c o - c u lt Used batteries Box by Pa Design (www.madeindesign.co.uk) ~$ 10
Swedese - Tree coat stand by Michael Young (www.connox.com) ~$ 563
Deer Horn Corkscrew by G. Lorenzi (www.couturelab.com) ~$ 516
Eko cULT Barbecue tongs „Greta“ (www.connox.com) ~$ 24
Screen printed cushion made of linen & cotton by Domestic (www.madeindesign.co.uk) ~$ 46
Mini Green Flowerpot - Herb garden by Racine Carré (www.madeindesign.co.uk) ~$ 29
Neem Hair Lotion „Dr. Hauschka“ (www. drhauschka.com) ~$ 29
Animal Boxes, Bull by Karl Zahn (www.connox.com) ~$ 78
Postman Cushion (www.occa-home.co.uk) ~$ 69
Wood Tumbler „Kyoto“ (www.occa-home.co.uk) ~$ 76
Book „Bamboo Style“ (www.taschen.com) ~$ 9
Plus salt and pepper grinder & one salt cellar by Muuto (www.finnishdesignshop.com) ~$ 100
Shower Cream „L'Occitane“ (www.loccitane.com) ~$ 6 Lexington Living Kitchen Set Of 2 Tea Towels (www.occa-home.co.uk) ~$ 41
Vase-sculpture „Beautiful Planets“ by Béatrix Li-Chin Loos (www.galeriegosserez.com)
Hair Pomade „john masters organics“ (www.johnmasters.com) ~$ 20
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FASHION & STYLE C AT WA L K
LONDON Pre-Fall 2012 2013 Collections
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MILANO Pre-Fall 2012 2013 Collections
Burberry Prorsum
Burberry Prorsum
Amen
Antonio Marras
Pringle of Scotland
Pringle of Scotland
Francesco Scognamiglio
Jo No Fui
Matthew Williamson
Erdem
N째21
Viktor & Rolf
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NEW YORK Pre-Fall 2012 2013 Collections
PARIS Pre-Fall 2012 2013 Collections
10 Crosby Derek Lam
DSquared2
Acne
Balmain
Proenza Schouler
Jason Wu
Christian Dior
Elie Saab
Sonia Rykiel
Kenzo
Marni
Louis Vuitton
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LONDON Collections Fall Winter 2012-13
Burberry Prorsum
Giles
Simone Rocha 94
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Central Saint Martins
Louise Gray
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
MILANO Collections Fall Winter 2012-13
A-Lab Milano
Albino
DSquared2
Gucci
Massimo Rebecchi
Prada
NEW YORK Collections Fall Winter 2012-13
10 Crosby Derek Lam
Gary Graham
Jil Sander Navy
Brood
Jen Kao
Marc Jacobs
PARIS Collections Fall Winter 2012-13
Alexander McQueen
Balenciaga
Balmain
Christophe Lemaire
Comme des Garรงons
Louis Vuitton
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LONDON Pre-Spring 2013 Collections
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MILANO Pre-Spring 2013 Collections
Alexander McQueen
Antonio Berardi
Albino
Francesco Scognamiglio
Burberry Prorsum
Emma Cook
MSGM
N째21
Erdem
Markus Lupfer
Ter et Bantine
Viktor & Rolf
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NEW YORK Pre-Spring 2013 Collections
PARIS Pre-Spring 2013 Collections
Alexander Wang
Cedric Charlier
Balmain
Christian Dior
Dsquared2
Givenchy
Issey Miyake
Jean Paul Gaultier
Just Cavalli
Kenzo
Mugler
Jen Kao
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Inspiration: Thom Browne
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The rocky horror picture show and bathroom ducks necklace... It‘s American fashion architect, based in New York – Thom Browne – Spring 2012 Womenswear.
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MEN