Market research vol 1

fds

TRANSFORMATIVE FASHION JUNZABURO Module 2, 2016

- 11. Market Research -

ÉTUDES STUDIO | 19 Feb 2016

ÉTUDES STUDIO There was only one shop assistant at the shop. I asked to the shop assistant if the t-shirt I try is for men, because on the display it was arranged with the skirt. However, the shop assistant there, said it is fine to try it on. Since it is oversized it goes well for both sex. The fabric choice gave me special feeling to it and it adds on to the brand identity. The white clean wall paper and the plant there fitted the garment very well. At the entrance they were explaining the concept of the collection like an exhibition.

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ÉTUDES STUDIO | 19 Feb 2016

REALITY ETUDES BLUE T-shirts 180€ Cotton 100%

ETOILE CREW LINUS ADRIEN COMPOSITION Sweatshirts 220€ Cotton 100%

KEY POINTS •

Long back panel.

•

The fabric has stiffness •

Oversized design.

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Pocket on the side because it’s oversized.

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Neckline binding edges finished on the side at the shoulder •

Digital printed fabric sewed on top of it on the surrounding.

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ÉTUDES STUDIO | 19 Feb 2015

KEY POINTS •

Fashion film showing on the home screen in full size •

They have the soundcloud account.

http://etudes-studio.com

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45rpm | 18 Feb 2016

45R Japanese brand in France. They were displaying objects from Shinto shrines.

They were using bamboo stick to hang clothes. It was great to show Japanese taste to it. The oversized dress construction was almost geometric shape. They are clearly showing that the brand is from Japan and by doing so they are providing the customer the authenticity of Japanese.

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45rpm | 18 Feb 2016

https://www.45rpm.jp/en/

KEY POINTS •

Japanese and English buttons.

•

The logo has white background and the website background is slightly grey

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

ADIDAS No one came to see how it fits my body.

Shop assistants are folding clothes and not bothering the customers by recommending their new product. Maybe it is because it is sportswear brand. Customers look for their brand to find casual relaxed street style.

They had range of colour for the elastic backpack. I choose the blue colour to match the zip on the back.

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

SWATER PANTS BACKPACK

KEY POINTS

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The edges of the zip is covered with small pocket.

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Binding inside with blue colour same as the zip.

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Slanting pocket on the pants •

Grading print on sweater •

Small pocket folding front side to cover the zip at the bottom of the trousers.

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ALLSAINTS | 15 Feb 2016

ALLSAINTS It was difficult to take pictures since the shop assistant was looking at the customers choice in clothing to recommend for them.

The use of zips were interesting. It went all around to the backside. The print on the tee is also nice. Hand drawing taste with geometric pattern is my painting style. The collage tee shirt with printed fabric stitched around the edges leaving the raw edges looks nice. The colour is black for both prints.

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AMI | 16 Feb 2016

AMI The Lemon embroidery scattered all around the sweater. Some are cut and some are not. The embroidery was done by the towel fabric which made even cuter. This was one of my favourite piece during the market research in Paris. I tend to like huge embroidery done on the cotton or something casual and relaxing material.

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AMI | 16 Feb 2016

asap asap is the concept shop for sustainable products. There they were introducing the brand called RVR LARDINI. They send the garment packed like a pillow to reduce the size when shipping. By having reversible people can save 50% of cost and space to have the garment.

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

REVERSIBLE KNIT REVERSIBLE COAT

KEY POINTS •

Logo printed inside the pocket.

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When it is reversed the button can be replaced onto the other side.

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Cashmere and nylon sewed together.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

BILLTORNADE Grey line covering around the shirt playing with composition of the width of the line. It had a strap sticking out from the arm to hold the arm short. The tee shirt had long back panel.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

BONOBO At the entrance they had recycled box to collect the jeans and had a monument of tree made out of these recycled product.

They are aware of sustainability of a product. The shape of the pocket on the back side were unique and identifies the brand.

The stitching was in some parts done by three lines.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

CARVEN The graphic style was my taste. The space it contained in the image is very similar to my pictures. If I have my painterly effect on my garments. It would look similar to this. I was going for a unisex style and was wondering how it would look like when I added the painterly effect on the surface of my garment. This collection of carven for men also goes for women too.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

CHEAP MONDAY It was rolling up around the waist line. None sleeve tee shirt was very light fabric that it almost felt like I am not wearing anything. The string was coming out from underneath the shoulder and was difficult to hide it. The stitching line was dark and was visible from far away.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

COMME DES GARÇON I tried two shirt in the shop that collects black series of comme des garçon’s garments. Black coloured. Black Kewpie doll in the shop added the essence to the garment. The dotted line on the garment reminded me of Kusama Yayoi’s artwork. My painting theme is “ Kinnenne”. Which is the image that changes from the distance.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

DSQUARED2 Moire effect on the jacket layered on the white fabric which is very similar to what I am developing with black and white organza. On the tee shirt around the waist it has a string around it. The unique silhouette comes from the combination of the ordinary construction of the garment.

The print was stiff and made the material thicker.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

DOLCE & GABBANA They gave me a look book for the new collection. Many brands would not give me the look book but this time I was lucky. The monkey embroidery was popping up slightly from the surface. The v shape neckline construction from the background was folded and hand bump.

The trousers was in between of casual and formal by having the white lines around it.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

DRKSHDW The folding made the fabric thicker and was using it as a design. It was think and fabric that it can see the skin colour underneath it. After I came back and researched the brand I learned that DRKSHDW is a designed by Rick Owens. It was hanged in the fitting room so I tried it on.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

GUCCI The material felt contemporary. The embroidery work was done in a different fabric and stitched around it afterwards. Silky dark purple bonding was beautiful on the shoulder.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

HAN KJOBENHAVN From shoulder to arm it had square strap going through top to bottom with green colour. I liked the turtle neck. The colour palette was similar to the Japanese prints.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

HOMECORE The stitch they use is very unique. The shop assistant told me that this brand succeeded in Japanese branch that their new collection had Japanese letters on it. I can see that the colour range is appreciated by Japanese people. Deep green and red and yellow colours and pale orange.

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

SWEATER

KEY POINTS

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Triangle panels around the garment with intentional stitching.

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Hem by unfinished look.

Transformative Fashion > Range Plan

Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

ICNY Zip on the front attached pocket. Reflective stripes on the hood. Reflective print gives the young look.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

ISSEY MIYAKE Digital printed on neoprene material. I asked the shop assistant to try women’s trousers. I really liked the construction of the trousers but was disappointed to find this from the women’s wear section since I am designing similar silhouette for menswear.

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ÉTUDES STUDIO | 19 Feb 2016

YELLOW TROUSERS T-shirts 180€ Cotton 100%

KEY POINTS •

Geometric pattern cutting •

Jacquard, weaved in.

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Unique belt construction on the sides.

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ÉTUDES STUDIO | 19 Feb 2016

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

jimi roos Run stitch embroidery scattered on the shirt. The fabric was waxy and stiff.

When the sleeve is folded it is even cuter.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

JOSEPH They also had reversible coat with nylon on both sides. The button can be switched to the opposite side. The button is not separate piece like the RVR LARDINI ones so people do not have to worry about losing the button. I tend to take pictures when they have string around the waist line.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

Juun. J Denim tops with no zip. The neck construction had no curve. It is similar to my t-shirt construction. If this is a jersey piece it would have looked completely different. When the fabric is used in a different way it will give the contemporary look.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

K-WAY The reversible and packable jumper. The shop assistant showed me how to do it. First I struggled to understand how it works but when I learned how to do it, it was fairly easy.

They were exhibiting the bag on the wall in a plastic ball. It gave the space station feeling to it.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

KARL LAGARFELD The shop assistant recommended me some bags and jackets. The tee shirt were printed with indigo blue. It looked like there used to be a pocket but it was just printed to give that feeling to the look.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

KOKON TO ZAI Puffed up printing covering the T-shirt.

The pattern is covering whole garment that it almost feels like a textured fabric than a printed fabric. The finishing of the garment is very well made.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

Kolor The armhole was too small for me but the colour matched my skin. The strap along the side underneath the arm is nice. Green strap along the edges makes the detail pop out and bring the print and the detail emerge together nicely.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

Levi's The length of the arm is nice. I really liked the raw edges with oval shape on the side. Vibrant orange arm is tight and the rest is bold and relaxed.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

MASNADA The pants was twisted that it had a unique fitting to the body. The material was light. The pattern cutting was very unique and playful. I guess it works with lighter fabric when there is lot of complicated construction going on.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

MIHARA YASUHIRO Reconstructing the children’s wear into adult’s wear. I used to construct garment by reconstructing the garment I had.

The process of my design used to be like this but it changed after studying fashion design. I want to remember how I used to work.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

Nike The collaboration with the basketball player for the shoes range. And for the jacket they had a collaboration with sacai. lime green colour which is in my colour palette for my collection is always in the sportswear sector. It means that the colour brings the sporty look. I think it is innovative if I use the colour in the fabric which are not sporty like organza.

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

NIKE LAB

KEY POINTS

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Sports brand but the silhouette is Japanese kimono.

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Shoes with no shoe laces.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

OFF WHITE They had a unique labelling inside the neck.

The print technique was interesting. It was layered with different print technique. The placement of the embroidery on each side of the shoulder is well located.

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

T-shirt

KEY POINTS

•

Silver mixed in the pigment. •

Long strap sewed on the back. It is so unique that it tells that it is from this brand if it has this

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

Paul Smith Paul Smith is also doing the jacket that change into a bag. The way to pack inside the pocket is different from K-WAY but it is the similar using the pocket on the front side of the pocket.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

Prada Slanting pocket with silver zip. The zip handle is falling with the gravity and adds the line composition. Orange belt around the arm makes it look like a construction worker but the pocket on top of the belt makes it in part of the garment.

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

JACKET

KEY POINTS

•

The use of colour and the silver zip makes the look young.

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Flip on top of the zip.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

rag & bone Black print on black T-shirt. The inside binding is around the back neck line through the shoulder and stitched on top of it.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

REPLAY They had a lot of variation in T-shirt. Playing with many different details such as pocket construction, the use of zips and the print. I wanted to get one from this brand but it did not fit me for some reason.

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

T-SHIRT

KEY POINTS

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Embroidered logo mark on the neckline.

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Raw finishing around the neck.

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Heavy zip on jersey.

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Gold print on top of puffed up print.

Transformative Fashion > Range Plan

Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

KEY POINTS

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Vertical line stitching on for the hem.

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Left printed underneath the arm.

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Ripped look pocket.

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Shiny material with jersey •

Cross stitched on top of the label

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

KEY POINTS

Transformative Fashion > Range Plan

•

Pleated armhole.

•

Heavy metal zip on the shoulder •

Print and object as a detail.

Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

Rick Owens The shop assistant was dressed in his style. By looking at them it showed their customer target. The assistant arranged the pants and the shoes to go with the tops I chose.

Shoulder was showing but in a masculine way. It looked like as if it can be worn upside down but when I tried it, the back skin was showing. If I tried it with another layer of a shirt it might work together. I enjoyed the extra fabric which can be decided how to wear it by the wearer.

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

T-SHIRT SHOES

KEY POINTS

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It has a name tag on the label.

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Brand name is curved on snaps •

two different logos with different textures with vibrant colours.

•

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Stitched with red thread.

Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

Sacai Playing with the white stitching. It had wide arm band. Instead of having the front pocket, it had stitching that mimics the shape of the front pocket.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

SAINT LAURANT Black five stars printed around the neckline. The placement of the stars is difficult to have it if it was a necklace because it two stars on both ends stay in horizontal line. On top of the neckline hem the logo is printed.

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Berlingot | 29 Dec 2015

GRADING SHIRT

KEY POINTS

•

Grading colour.

•

Raw finishing around the waist.

•

Snaps for the fastenings.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

SCOTCH & SODA Thick thread orange linear embroidery.

The motif is leaves. When it is was a painting I would blur out the lines to create the space or atmosphere of the painting but when it comes to embroidery, the colour does the work. Since the line is all the same width, words and leaves go well together.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

STONE ISLAND The colour palette was exactly how I wanted with my collection. Dull colour with neon lime green. I like when I see long passage inside the garment. I guess it is because I can feel the thought process even if I don’t read them through. G-star raw also had this kind of description. The purpose of having these description differs from an artwork.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

The Kooples Devore fabric used in menswear T-shirt. I was thinking to use this technique and was wondering if this will look too feminine for menswear but after looking at it I think it goes more for men’s because they are more comfortable showing the skin through the sheer parts. Underneath the button hole they were using leather. I should think about the other material that goes together with the jersey.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

THOM BROWNE This was my favourite T-shirt thorough out the whole market research. The white line is not printed on top of the navy blue fabric but cut and sewed together. The hight of the t-shirt was perfect for me. The side button was also nice. It does not seem functional but more decorative.

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Berlingot | 19 Feb 2016

Y-3 I tried on the recent jacket from Y-3. It was constructed with geometric shapes. By zipping and unzipping the garment, it can shorten the sleeve or can be worn in different ways. When I was going to leave the shop, the shop assistant stopped me and asked if I am doubly sure about not purchasing the coat since it has only produced for a small quantity.

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