The essential guide to model railroad

The Essential Guide to Model Trains

By Albert Coleman

The Essential Guide to Model Trains

Important Note This eBook is NOT free. This is copyright material. Distribution of this ebook by any means to anyone who has not paid for it is strictly forbidden.

Notice of rights All rights reserved. No part of this ebook may be reproduced or transferred in any form or by any means, graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or by any information storage retrieval system, without the written permission of the author.

Disclaimer The accuracy and completeness of information provided herein and opinions stated herein are not guaranteed or warranted to produce any particular results, and the advice and strategies, contained herein may not be suitable for every individual. The author shall not be liable for any loss incurred as a consequence of the use and application, directly or indirectly, of any information presented in this work. This publication is designed to provide accuracy in regard to the subject matter covered. The author has used his efforts in preparing this ebook. Sold with the understanding, the author is not engaged in rendering legal, accounting, or other professional services. If legal advice or expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought.

The author can be contacted at http://modelrailwaytrains.org/contact-us/

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Table of Contents INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................... 6 WHAT YOU'RE GOING TO LEARN FROM THIS BOOK ...................................................... 7 CHAPTER 1: WHY MODEL? ............................................................................. 10 MOTIVATION ............................................................................................................ 11 IGNITE AN INTEREST IN HISTORY ............................................................................... 12 YES, YOU CAN LEARN ECONOMICS, ELECTRICITY... AND MORE! .................................. 13 LET'S DISPEL A COUPLE OF MYTHS... .......................................................................... 14 CHAPTER 2: SCALE, GAUGE & STANDARDS .............................................. 16 WHAT IS SCALE? ....................................................................................................... 17 LARGE-SCALE TRAINS ................................................................................................ 18 SMALL BUT MIGHTY...POPULAR THAT IS! ................................................................... 19 NOW FOR THE LESSER KNOWN SCALES... .................................................................... 20 STANDARDS FOR THE HOBBY .................................................................................... 21 ORDER FROM RAILROAD CHAOS ................................................................................ 22 THEN WHAT IS A RECOMMENDED PRACTICE? ............................................................ 22 CHAPTER 3: BENCHWORK.............................................................................. 24 BUYING THE BENCHWORK ......................................................................................... 25 WHAT ABOUT A BENCHWORK KIT?............................................................................ 25 DIGGING DEEPER INTO BENCHWORK .......................................................................... 27 THE OPEN GRID METHOD OF TERRAIN ....................................................................... 29 DON'T FORGET THE PLATFORM ITSELF....................................................................... 29 THEY USE HOMA-WHAT? ........................................................................................... 30 CHAPTER 4: MAKIN' TRACKS & GETTING WIRED .................................... 32 MAKIN' TRACKS: WHAT TO EXPECT .......................................................................... 34 BRINGING YOUR FIRST SET HOME .............................................................................. 35 CIRCLE OR OVAL? ..................................................................................................... 35 SHAPES, LENGTHS: WHAT YOU'LL NEED! ................................................................... 36 CLOSING THE GAPS! .................................................................................................. 37 THREE FEET OF PURE FLEXIBILITY .............................................................................. 38 ADVANTAGES OF FLEXIBLE TRACK............................................................................. 39 GRADING: AND WE DON'T MEAN A REPORT CARD! .................................................... 40

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

HOW STEEP IS TOO STEEP? ........................................................................................ 41 WHERE ARE MY RAIL JOINERS? .................................................................................. 42 A WORD ABOUT ROADBEDS ....................................................................................... 42 SOME LAYOUT IDEAS: THE OUT-AND-HOME LAYOUT ............................................... 43 HELP! MY RAILROAD IS OUTGROWING MY SPACE ....................................................... 45 A WHOLE-HOUSE TRAIN? .......................................................................................... 45 POWER! ..................................................................................................................... 46 DON'T LET THEM CALL YOU "LOOPY" ........................................................................ 47 FROG?....................................................................................................................... 49 SAME, BUT ELECTRICALLY DIFFERENT ........................................................................ 49 HOW DCC REVOLUTIONIZES MODEL RAILROAD WIRING ............................................ 50 32 OR 64? WOW! NOW WE'RE TALKING CONTROL! .................................................. 52 CHAPTER 5: LOCOMOTIVES AND ROLLING STOCK ................................ 54 DISTINCTION: TOY CARS VS. MODEL CARS ................................................................ 56 LOCOMOTIVES ........................................................................................................... 57 CONSIDER HO AND N SCALE .................................................................................... 58 BUYING YOUR LOCOMOTIVE ...................................................................................... 60 PURCHASING ROLLING STOCK ................................................................................... 60 BUILD YOUR OWN...................................................................................................... 62 TRANSPORTING YOUR TRANSPORTATION .................................................................. 63 CHAPTER 6: SCENERY AND STRUCTURES ................................................. 64 LET YOUR IMAGINATION SOAR! ................................................................................. 66 FORCED PERSPECTIVE ................................................................................................ 67 VIEWING THE FOREGROUND; IMAGINING THE BACKGROUND ..................................... 68 LINESIDE DETAILS... HERE'S JUST THE TICKET ........................................................... 69 AH! BUT WHERE DO YOU FIND THIS NUGGET OF REALISM? ........................................ 70 LET HIM WITH NO TERRAIN ....................................................................................... 71 CAST THE FIRST... ROCK? .......................................................................................... 71 THE MAGIC OF... RUBBER ROCK MOLDS?! .................................................................. 72 CASTING IN PLACE .................................................................................................... 73 SO YOU WANT A RUSTY ALUMINUM ROOF? ................................................................ 75 IT'S DISTRESSING...BUT IT'S WHAT YOU WANT .......................................................... 75 WEATHERING YOUR LOCOMOTIVES AND ROLLING STOCK .......................................... 76 CONCLUSION ...................................................................................................... 78

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BONUS SECTIONS: SAVING MONEY ON MODEL TRAINS ........................................................... 79 BUDGET .................................................................................................................... 79 TRAINS ..................................................................................................................... 81 BACKGROUNDS AND SCENERY .................................................................................. 82 ELECTRONICS ............................................................................................................ 84 EBAY GUIDE TO BIDDING AND WINNING.................................................................. 85 USED ITEMS .............................................................................................................. 88 SUMMARY ................................................................................................................. 90 DISCOUNT TRAIN LINKS ........................................................................................... 90 RESOURCES ......................................................................................................... 91 BOOKS ...................................................................................................................... 92 MAGAZINES .............................................................................................................. 96 DVDS ....................................................................................................................... 99 CLUBS .....................................................................................................................100 GLOSSARY .........................................................................................................101 MANUFACTURERS LIST ..................................................................................124 USA MANUFACTURERS ...........................................................................................124 UK MANUFACTURES ...............................................................................................125 CANADIAN MANUFACTURERS .................................................................................127 AUSTRALIAN MANUFACTURERS ..............................................................................127 NEW ZEALAND MANUFACTURERS ...........................................................................127 EUROPEAN MANUFACTURERS..................................................................................128

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Introduction Did your children grow up with Thomas the Tank? Did you ever read them the story of the "Little Engine that could"?

Railroad-themed stories and toys are part of the fabric of the American experience. While today, the only passenger trains running are owned by Amtrak, railroads were once the fastest way to cross this huge country.

There's a nostalgia associated with model railroading -- even if it's unspoken. Railroads take us back to an earlier era. A more basic time.

When spending a week or more on a train was seen as a luxury -- an event in itself -- not at as merely a mode of transportation.

Perhaps you've spent the best times of your life in that era? Or maybe you didn't, but would love to recapture the joy you imagine would be associated with it. Then model railroading is the hobby for you.

You've probably already scouted some model railroad shows. You've no doubt recognized the camaraderie and the passion these folks have. And yes, you're interested in becoming a part of that.

This book will help you do just that! It's as comprehensive a guide to model railroading as you'll find anywhere, starting with some basic "train knowledge" and continuing on to the more detailed aspects of the hobby.

And yes, this hobby can indeed get quite detailed. And that tends to be intimidating to some people. The beauty of this hobby is that you can get involved at just the level you care too.

Don't want to build entire villages by hand? You can populate your layout simply by going to the hobby store and buying proportional figures, houses, cars and other objects for your scenery.

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If you'd rather hand-build an entire company town -- house for house, general store and other structures -- you can.

The great secret of this hobby that is both the person who buys his village and the person who builds it from scratch are enjoying themselves to the fullest.

As an individual who stumbled onto the hobby in a way many have -with one single electric train set as a Christmas present in my childhood - I'm thrilled to have progressed in my passion to be able to share it with you now.

You'll discover that every model railroader is in it for the love of the trains and the history. The vast majority of us are not out to make a fast buck from our interests Are you ready to take a train ride back in time?

What you're going to learn from this book I've written this book not only to provide you with a general overview of the basics of model railroading, but to give you some little-known tips on the best ways of enjoying yourself through this constantly growing hobby.

Chapter 1 gives you an overview of why model railroading is so popular. I explain some of the benefits it's given me over the years, as well as why many of my fellow railroaders are such die-hard hobbyists.

In the following chapter I explain what is, without a doubt, one of the most troubling and confusing aspects of model railroader to the novice -the idea of scale and gauge and the difference between the two!

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I've been told by many that this alone has prevented many a person from delving into the hobby! What a shame! Once it's explained to you properly, you'll be amazed at how easy it is to understand. And the entire hobby of model railroading suddenly is at your fingertips.

Chapter 3 starts you on the idea of building benchwork. Of course, before you actually build the benchwork, you need to know exactly what it is. I'll explain it all to you.

The following chapter then gets to the nitty-gritty of model railroading... the tracks, the wiring and the physical layout of the land. Here, I'll explain the various types of tracks, how they're wired to ensure they work continuously and how to create a layout that doesn't derail your poor train every time it rounds a corner.

Once you know that the train is safe on your track, you've got to decide what cars your locomotive should pull. And that's where chapter 5 comes in. Don't know an open-top hopper from a gondola? Well, right now why should you? Don't worry! Before you've finished reading this book you will.

Finally, I'll talk about the scenery. If you chose to "scratch build" your scenery, I've got some great tips for you. I'll let you in on the secret of "forced perspective" which makes your entire layout look larger and gives it an uncanny sense of realism.

You're going to marvel just how realistic your miniature world can look.

And you'll be so placed because you did it yourself!

Oh yes. I know that this can be all overwhelming at first. That's why I've included a glossary for you as well. Any time you need to, just refer to the back pages of this book, you'll find the terms explained succinctly.

One more thing. I'm suspecting that before you finish reading this book, you'll probably be drawn into the magic of model railroading. Based on

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this presumption, I've provided you with a few resources you can consult to help cement your relationship with this marvelous pastime.

So what are we waiting for? Let's start!

"All Aboard!"

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

Chapter 1: Why Model?

Of course, each individual has compelling reasons why he loves model railroading. But beneath each of these reasons lies some common threads that make it an awesome hobby for young and old, men and women, boy and girl, alike!

Discover only a few here!

H

ave you taken your children to a model train show yet? And are they hooked? It's almost a rite of passage for boys to have some type of model train set sometime in their childhood. And to tell you the truth, only Santa Claus knows how many girls have cried come Christmas morning because they didn't get a train set like their brother.

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If the model train is only brought out, set up and admired once a year -at Christmas under the tree, the entire family usually agrees it was money well spent. Our love of trains runs just that deep.

Model railroading, for many people, especially those who join the clubs model railroads is more than just watching a train circling under a tree.

It's a hobby -- for some a passion -- that involves building an entire miniature city by hand. And wrapped around this city is the ever-present train.

To be quite honest, it actually makes a great hobby, one that will probably never go out of style.

Watching the small trains, in many ways, takes us back to a time -- an era -- where life seemed simpler, slower, and values seemed more pronounced. In this era, the train ride was more than just a method of transportation to get from Chicago to New York City... although it was indeed that too... the ride itself in the Pullman cars was the thrill, the luxury and the relaxing aspect of the event.

Motivation But what motivates the average person to pursue this avocation?

Why are you interested in the hobby? Of course, because it's fun...it's entertaining...and shhh! Donâ€&#x;t tell the children...it's also educational.

Let's look a little deeper into the reasons why model railroading has retained its appeal for so long. Beyond anything else, many families love it because it's a hobby that appeals to the entire family. Dads and sons may love the "roar" of the locomotive, but what girl can't resist those tiny people who populate the trainâ€&#x;s periphery? And what mom and her children wouldn't love to create homes, stores...heck entire cities?

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Model railroader is the one hobby that can occupy the attention of every member of the family. Each is recruited to perform some task.

It's also a hobby that you bequeath to your children who can then carry it on to their own children one day. Talk to almost any avid model railroader today; you'll discover that more often than not he started out loving the hobby as a child.

Some insist model railroading is great because you're in control. As you learn more about the hobby, develop new skills and become more adapt at the construction phase of the hobby, you'll discover this.

You're the master of your own city (okay, so it's a miniature city! Still!).

You'll create the track you want, the path it takes is of your choosing, and you can enjoy it whenever you please.

And yes, I'm going to say it again. Model railroading is, indeed, educational. What exactly can you learn through this hobby? Let's start with the fact you'll learn a little bit of history.

Ignite an interest in history It's true! For those of you who never thought that history was even mildly interesting, let alone cool, model railroading brings you face to face with your previous thoughts.

How can a so fun hobby be so filled with historical knowledge? Think about it. The railroads reflect the era they operated in. So when you buy a part -- or create a part -- from a certain time period, you can be sure you'll inevitably learn something of that time. (Even if you didn't plan on it or you don't think you need to.)

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Building a replica of a train and eventually a city in a specific time period ultimately leads to learning more about the time in order to get your municipality as accurate as possible.

Railroads, in their day, encompassed all aspects of history, from the economic aspect to social and labor movements, the civil rights movement. In fact, as you will probably see when you get more involved in this wonderful hobby, that railroad played an intimate -- and very crucial -- role in the history of the gilded age, the "robber barons" of the period and much more.

Yes, you can learn economics, electricity... and more!

Model railroading gives you a better and more vivid understanding of economics. When you graphically see how goods move from place to place economic becomes more than a subject you almost flunked in college, it becomes a living, breathing aspect of our everyday life.

Railroads move raw materials from one place to another. They also transport the finished manufactured goods from place to place as well.

As you advance in model railroading both you and your children will be acquiring some amazing basic carpentry skills and a working knowledge of electricity. If you get involved in the benchwork aspect of model railroading you'll discover that you'll transform yourself into a regular carpenter even if you've never picked up a hammer or a saw before this.

You'll discover that you know more about electricity than you thought as you wire your railroad.

As you develop your city, you may find yourself "building" trees and constructing all sorts of scenery to accompany and beautify your city.

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And while you may not think of yourself of an artist quite yet... just wait till you get started.

Whew! These are quite a few skills currently hidden inside of you. Of course, I've only barely scratched the surface of what's even possible to learn and just a few of the skills inside of you waiting to be developed.

But did I happen to mention some of the more pleasant social aspects associated with this hobby? From what I've described so far, you may be imagining that model railroading is a hobby that keeps you cooped up in your basement away from the general public.

You may think that, but you'd be wrong. Indulging in the hobby of model railroading can be a very social hobby. Believe it or not, it's a great way to meet new people and make new friends.

There are any number of clubs and associations you can join, not only on the national level, but locally as well.

And your new hobby provides you with a great excuse to travel. Indeed!

You'll discover you can go on rail-fanning trips, travel to conventions or shows or just visit friends you've made through the hobby.

But more than that, you'll meet people from all walks of life. When you join your first group of model railroaders, don't be surprised to find doctors, lawyers, engineers, business people to name just a very few of the people from so many different occupations.

Let's dispel a couple of myths...

And one of those myths is that model railroading is just for men. The last time I attended a meeting of enthusiasts of this hobby, there was no sign at the door saying "men only." More and more girls and women are joining in on the fun.

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I personally have been at some "build-a-kit" clinics held by the National Model Railroaders Association where nearly one half of those attending are girls, moms or even grandmothers. So, if you're hesitating to jump into this hobby because you're afraid you're not the right sex... you can just forget that.

Sometimes individuals tell me they would love to start learning more about the hobby, but they're fearful people will think of them as... well, a geek. Pshaw! Would you call Tom Brokaw a geek? I didn't think so. He's an avid model railroader. So are Phil Collins and Neil Young. Both are far too "hip" (if not older) rock and rollers to be called geeks.

Do you consider Tom Hanks a geek? And I doubt anyone could stretch his imagination to call Elton John a geek? What about legendary Michael Jordan? That's what I thought. Yep, both of them are model railroaders as well.

I do believe I've made my point quite vividly. There's no need then to bring out the other well known personalities I had tucked away for this purpose. Individuals like Winston Churchill, Joe DiMaggio, Walt Disney, the former Formula-1 race car driver Riccardo Patrese, or the late Frank Sinatra, Bruce Springsteen, Rod Stewart, the indomitable, iconoclastic actor Donald Sutherland or the late jazz singer and composer Mel Torme.

No don't think I'll mention any of them!

Why indulge yourself in model railroading? Because it's fun. All the other reasons are really just icing on the cake.

Are you ready to dig deeper into this remarkably entertaining hobby?

"Next stop, Scale, Gauge and Standards!"

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Chapter 2: Scale, Gauge & Standards You'll hear model railroaders utter the terms "scale and gauge" in one breath. This may leave you breathless, totally confused. Now here's your chance to separate the scale from the gauge -- once and for all!

S

o now that you know why so many people have fallen in love with this hobby, you're interested in knowing a bit more. What? You said you're intimidated by it all, just because of two basic words: scale and gauge.

Ha! There's absolutely no reason for you not to understand these. These terms appear more intimidating than they really are. So, let's tackle them

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one at a time, so you can see exactly what they mean -- and how you they can become a part of your new language.

So you've already walked into your local hobby shop asking about model trains. And I can hear the conversation now. They asked you all sorts of questions about what types of model trains you wanted to start with, like HO or maybe N or perhaps O, or then you might find S better suited to your tastes.

And you walked out, empty handed, feeling not only disappointed, but like you just ate of bowl of alphabet soup? I only know this because it happened to me my first time in a hobby shop. And I left frustrated. But I also left determined to figure out what those clerks were talking about.

So, before you make your next trip to the same shop, brush up with this chapter. I guarantee you, you'll not only know more about the questions they're asking, but you'll also be in the position to ask some questions of your own.

What is scale?

Once you get into this hobby (and I assure you that you will!) you'll hear a lot of people bandy about the term scale. Scale is, in a nutshell, is the ratio of the model train to the life-size or "prototype" train.

Scale actually means exactly what the name implies. That the model you're running or building is a "scaled down" replica of the life-size version. The different letters assigned to the scales just reflect the natural differences in ratios.

Gauge, though sometimes spoken in the same breath as scale, is slightly different. It actually measures the width of the tracks on which your train runs.

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Let's stop here for just a moment to consider the importance of gauge, especially. The success of the hobby lies in part because the manufacturers of these trains are precise enough with their processes to ensure that the trains the actually fit on the track. This wouldn't be so difficult if there were just a single maker of tracks and trains. Then you'd know for certain everything fit well together. But thankfully we have lots of choices. And it only benefits our hobby!

Imagine this scenario if the makers of different makers used all sorts of various sizes of gauges. You bring home a new locomotive to put on your track. And it doesn't fit.

When you talk track, it has to be absolutely accurate, even just a little off -- you may not be able to even see it at a glance -- for the train to be misaligned with the track.

The easiest way to explain them is to just tackle different train sizes and speak of both scale and gauge at the same time. But keep in mind that they really are two quite different aspects of the hobby.

Large-scale trains This is the term the modelers used to describe, surprisingly enough, the larger selections. These models come not in just one scale but several.

They all, however, operate on what's called Gauge 1 track. This track has 45 mm between either rail.

In fact, if you walk into a hobby store today, you'd probably discover at least five different scales all literally clumped together in this larger scale size.

Many of these trains are used by those aficionados who run their systems outdoors in their backyards. The locomotives chugged along carrying their cars through large flower and herb gardens.

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So just how large are these trains? Well, imagine the size of a large 50foot-long locomotive. The model of this, in a 1:29 scale (1 inch represents 29 feet) would be approximately 20 ¾ inches!

The most popular gauge is the "O" as it's called among hobbyists. The gauge for "O" is 1 ¼ inches; the scale is 1:48. That same 50-footlocomotive in this model, is about 12 ½ inches long.

Just a bit smaller than "O" is the S-gauge train models. This category runs on tracks with a gauge of 7/8 inches and a scale of 1:64. Our prototype 50-foot locomotive is only 9 3/8 inches long in this scale.

Small but mighty...popular that is!

Yes, these are the largest of the trains. So, just how small are the small ones you may be wondering. I'm glad you asked. Let's find out just how small these trains can get!

There's the HO gauge. HO literally stands for "half of O". This class of trains is built to be exactly one half the size of "O" gauge models. When compared to the full-size trains, the HO has a scale of 1:87. Now, that makes our 50-foot life-size prototype 7 inches in this scale.

On first impression, you make think that this is extremely small. But, the HO train models are an ideal size to allow a satisfying layout in a smaller space. But, at the same time, these cars are large enough to display detail.

And they really aren't too small to work with.

It's no wonder that HO is the most popular of all model railroad scales.

More than two-thirds of modelers rank it as their favorite size!

But we go even smaller than that when we view the "N" scale. This model, with a ratio of 1:160, has a gauge of 9 mm between the rails. It's

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preferred by those who don't have the room they'd like for their layout.

Those individuals who love expansive scenery also appreciate this gauge.

Now, we get to "Z" scale trains. Yes, they are even smaller than the others.

Their scale to the prototype locomotive is 1:220. Yes. Imagine that. This size means that our 50-foot locomotive is only 2 ž inches long in the "Z" scale. The space between this model's scale is 6.5 mm.

Now for the lesser known scales...

When you're first starting out, it's doubtful that you're likely to choose the scale popularly known as "TT". Called the "scratch builders' scale," the ratio is 1:10, modelers must build from "scratch" just about all of their pieces (as we go along, you'll see the term "scratch builders" frequently.)

While not extremely popular here, the TT scale gained a wide following in Europe and Australia where it's readily available. Today, some of these kits are being imported into the United States for the die-hard -- if small - following.

Don't be surprised to see, as you spend more time in this hobby a revival of this scale. Cottage industries are cropping up specialized in manufacturing this size. New processing methods are available today that weren't available even a decade ago to make this possible.

Resin casting, for example, is now cheap enough that helps to make this within the reach of many. If you have an extra $50 and just a little imagination you, too, can create your own line of TT scale model trains.

Brass etching -- another needed process -- can be easily performed in the small, home workshop.

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Standards for the Hobby Yes! Yes! I see you're just shaking your head. And I can just about read your mind: How in the world can all the manufacturers keep all these scales and gauges straight. And who in the world actually keeps track of this -- if anyone?

Ahh! I'm so glad you're asking these questions, because that brings us nicely to our next topic: standards. Yes, this is one hobby in which standards are vitally important.

A standard, as defined by the railroaders, is a figure, relationship or a dimension that is absolutely mandatory. These relationships and dimensions must be adhered to if you're to call what you're producing a specific scale.

Standards may be changed, but only by the vote of the group in charge of the rules.

If some standards weren't put in place you can easily see how the entire avocation could fall apart -- quickly. That was exactly the problem in the early days of model railroading -- the 1930s.

No standards existed then. You could buy two different brands of models thinking they would work together because well...they were the same size. You'd bring them home only to find that one brand didn't fit on the other's tracks. Now that's a bummer.

In many cases, modelers would independently build to their own private standards or from their own ideas and their own designs. When this happened it became nearly impossible to go to any type of model railroad show. It was nearly impossible to interchange trains on tracks.

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Order from railroad chaos In 1935, model railroaders, manufacturers as well as publishers came together to discuss the (woeful) state of affairs in the hobby. Everyone in attendance agreed the hobby would fall apart if something weren't done to organize it in some way.

The creation of the National Model Railroaders Association and its standards came from this initial summit. These standards insured that equipment could be used from one model railroad brand to another. It also made the movement of cars and locomotives of varying brands interchangeable as well.

Surprisingly many of these ideas have held up quite well for more than 70 years. Today, many of the concepts are virtually unchanged from their original conception. Oh sure, the NMRA have elaborated on some of them, refined others and even added several more along the way. But the fundamentals are much the same when they were adopted in 1936 following that initial meeting.

And through the perspective of history, these standards are in large part the reason the hobby is as popular as it is today.

Then what is a recommended practice?

In addition to standards, you'll also run into a phrase call recommended practices -- normally abbreviated as RP. These are the figures, relationships and dimensions that the engineering committee of the NMRA has developed by way of testing.

Recommended practices are not mandatory as the standards are. They are not voted on by the membership either. But they are presented to the Board of Trustees of the NMRA for their study and approval.

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As the name implies, it's recommended that all modelers follow these practices, but it certainly is not written in stone, as it were.

Now that we've cleared up some of the confusion about scale and gauge as well as shown you one of the reasons why the hobby has grown over the last 70 years -- and still flourishes today -- let's investigate what it's really all about -- the trains, the tracks, the layout and scenery.

"Next Stop, Benchwork!"

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

Chapter 3: Benchwork Nothing less than the literal foundation of model railroading. Whether created from scratch, salvaged from odds and ends, or converted from tables used for other means, your benchwork deserves your attention.

B

enchwork? Just what you mean by that, you ask? Why it's the very foundation of your railroad. It's the table upon which the railroad sits. It's the groundwork of your scenery.

So what are you going to use to hold the layout for your new railroad set?

Oh, sure, the floor will work for a while. Especially if you have your train

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

running under the Christmas tree or around some other fixture of your room, like a floor lamp or between legs of a coffee or end table.

But soon, you'll want to consider either buying some type of benchwork or building a custom bench for yourself. Let's start with the less intimidating option: buying something.

Buying the benchwork I know some hobbyists who boost their first layout was designed and created on a sheet of plywood placed between two sawhorses. Oh yes, this is the cheap‌er ... inexpensive alternative. But it really isn't a very sturdy alternative.

Some individuals have great luck in buying used (you're going to love this...) pool tables. Some of these people then covered that with plywood or even cork.

What about a benchwork kit?

If you're unsure of your skills as a carpenter, then consider purchasing a modular, precut, and predrilled wooden kit. Complete with instructions, you really only need to assemble all the parts provided and in no time at all, you have benchwork.

The beauty of this is that just as easily as you assembled it, you can disassemble it for moving or transporting to another room in your house.

These options may suit you well for a while. However, as you travel to the shows and you find yourself more interested in the hobby, you may find yourself thinking about building your own benchwork. In other words, creating the perfect table to hold your individually designed layout.

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No, it's really not as difficult as it seems. Chances are you'll be piecing the benchwork together bit by bit. For example you'll buy the legs of the table from a do it yourself home improvement store (Unless you have a lathe at home and feel like creating your own. Then you are indeed a creative and woodworking genius).

Once you decide to create your own table, you'll realize it's not nearly as intimidating as it sounds. Let's examine, first, what "parts" go into a table (sounds rather silly that way, doesn't it?).

A table is a very simple structure. It consists of a minimum of four legs, braces of some kind and a top. That's it. As I said earlier, the legs you can already buy in the height you desire at just about any home supply store.

You can even purchase these on line.

You'll find the most common height for legs are 28 inches. But you can also customize these to fit your specific needs. From here, you'll need to get a top and the braces. Voila! Before you know it, people are going to recognize it as a table -- guaranteed!

Got your interest piqued yet? Is your confidence level up? Good. Then I'll go into a little more detail here.

The first step in benchworking (yep, that's what model railroaders call it!) is to decide on the shape of your table. Will it be square or rectangular?

Or maybe even circular?

Next, you need to decide how large you want this to be. Seriously give some thought to how you expect to expand your layout in the future. And give equal thought to the room you have for the structure. Don't envision a huge table only to discover you don't have room in your house.

Here's an idea for a "table top" used by many newcomers to the hobby.

They simply use a door for the table top. That's right! The hinged things that open and close that get you through rooms.

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The door has the additional advantage of being more solid than most structures. And if you just happen to have an extra one or can find one at a local garage sale -- at a reasonable price -- bingo!

Then you need to decide "style" of legs you want. You may want to surf the web looking at some before you make your decision, but I normally go with the basic square "farmstyle" legs. After all, I'm focused on the train operations itself. And I'm really counting on my visitors being just as focused on that aspect too. I don't expect anyone to seriously examine the legs of my table.

Your final decision is if you're going to use an apron. Providing a mounting point as well as cross bracing for the legs, this is placed on the underside edge of the table. It also helps to hide a lot of the hardware as well.

But, if you'd like you can have this serve one more purpose. You can include a drawer to store some of your most used pieces or other instruments or tools.

Now that you've given this some thought, all you really need to do is go pick up the supplies. You'll probably need an extra set of hands to help you hold the material in place while you either nail or screw it together.

But that can be easily remedied by the bribing... I mean recruiting of a son -- or daughter -- or a willing and loving spouse.

Digging deeper into benchwork I mentioned the need for braces. You definitely need to give this some thought. It's not the area you really want to try to save money on. After all, braces do help to undergird your railroad -- and you have money invested in your train line.

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One method of ensuring your benchwork is strong and supports your layout and all the scenery is called the L-girder method. First developed

by Linn Westcott, it's quite popular and amazingly easy to do.

To create this type of brace consists of a one by four board and a one-bytwo or larger board. Attach the flat side of the one-by-two as a flange to the one-inch side of the one-by-four. This forms an L-shape when viewed from the one end.

This also creates a beam that is considerably strong. Two of these Lgirder beams can then be fastened to the top of structures made with two by two legs with cross braces between them. This then is the frame upon which you can place your sub-roadbed.

While you're building your benchwork, you're probably already daydreaming about the hills and valleys and all the nooks and crannies your new layout can provide you. You're planning the trips your lines are taking and what their new scenery will eventually look like.

And this is a good thing. You'll want to get a feel for the lay of the land (pun intended!) because now will be the time to add those hills, valleys and any other topographic detail to your sub-road bed.

Many railroaders love to use an abundance of hills and valleys. For this reason many individuals recommend what is called a "cookie cutter" approach. It's really quite simple. Using a jigsaw, cut a sheet of plywood to the size and shapes you'd like these elevations to be.

Make sure when you do this, you leave one end of these topographical distinctions still attached to the plywood (like an odd-shaped flap). You can then elevate the free end of the cutout using wooden blocks. Are you beginning to see how the rolling hills will emerge from this. (And yes, we are sure this is NOT how God created the world, but it's as close as we can come!)

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The open grid method of terrain But this isn't the only technique you can use. You can employ something called an "open grid" of two-by-fours or even two-by-sixes. Place these in rows on top of your framework, add a one-by-four or two-by-four "risers" that are attached to the grid in specific areas that match your plans for the track layout.

From here, you'll use plywood cutouts of your plan to place on top of the risers. If you prefer though the alternative would be to use wood strips spliced together with glue. This creates curved sub-roadbed.

Your next step is to use a screen or a web of cardboard strips covered with plaster cloth or plaster-soaked paper towel to lay over this, fashioning the hills and valleys to your liking. Pretty clever, huh?

Don't forget the platform itself That brings us now to the platform. Many hobbyists use a 3/8-inch or ½inch thick sheet of plywood for this purpose. You'll no doubt want the plywood to extend several inches off the front edge of the support.

If you think you're going to need this platform to be portable (Planning on your spouse kicking you out because you spend more time here than...we won't go there!), then here's a great tip. Instead of laying down one large sheet of plywood, use several smaller sheets -- even if you have to cut them yourself.

In this way, the benchwork --at least to a degree -- is relatively portable.

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They use homa-what?

Many railroaders who create their own benchwork use homasote, or cellulose based fiber wall board to place on top of the plywood for either their sub-roadbed or their platform. If you're not familiar with this, it's much like papier mache and manufactured from recycled paper compressed under very high temperatures and bond together with glue.

It's about a half inch thick. You can usually buy it in sheets of four by eight feet.

While it's effective, it does have several serious disadvantages. When you cut this, you'll discover that it makes a mess. So if you do use it, don't cut it inside the house. Take it outside or in the garage. Your spouse and the rest of the family will thank you.

But as it's making its mess, it may also be infiltrating your lungs -- and that's not good. So if you do decide to go this route, please, wear a protective mask over your mouth and nose to protect your lungs.

If the prospect of using homasote doesn't appeal to you, think about using several sheets of insulating extruded foam. These pieces can easily be bought in building supply stores. You can then place them on top of the plywood and glue the two layers together.

You can still create valleys, rivers, and even lakes. Just take a knife, cut the shape of the topographical area out of the foam.

If you'd like to have mountains, simple cut out layers of the foam and shape them into your own personal mountain range.

Foam works well with your eventually wiring of your layout. It's much easier to create the channels necessary for wiring when you're dealing with form.

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Well, what do you know? Stand back and look at what you just did.

You've just built your first benchwork. And it doesn't even look like you broke a sweat -- at least not much of one, anyway.

"Next Stop, Tracks and Wiring!"

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Chapter 4: Makin' Tracks & Getting Wired You've got your benchwork up and your topographical foundation set. Are you ready to get down to the nitty-gritty of deciding on your train route? It's time to lay some track and wire 'er up!

W

ow! Just where do I begin? For the first year or so of your hobby, you may find it much easier just to buy tracks than to scratch build them. (Yes, those truly devoted to this hobby actually build their own!) And that's fine. The point of this hobby -- and any hobby for that matter -- is to simply enjoy yourself.

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As a newcomer to the subject, jumping in with both feet, trying to do everything at one time -- build tracks, scenery, even cars -- may be a bit too overwhelming.

Many people prefer just purchasing products -- all their products, including scenery and other structures -- and just enjoy the locomotive and its cars. And you know, that works for me!

But if I'm going to talk about tracks, I may have to, by necessity talk about manufacturers. It just comes with the territory. When I mention certain brands or models of tracks (as well as other products), please don't take these to mean an endorsement of them in any way, shape or form.

As you progress in the pursuit of this leisurely pursuit, you'll see what I mean -- and you'll discover some favorites of your own!

Talk to just about any veteran model railroader and he'll (or she'll) tell you in no uncertain terms: good trackwork is essential to your operation.

In the next breath, they'll probably start talking about some horror story of somebody - or even themselves when they first began -- of trying to do a "quick start" at the hobby and laid their rail down quickly.

They soon discovered that they encountered derailments (trains falling off tracks). Locomotives and cars may have been damaged beyond repair in the process. It's possible even some of the scenery they worked so hard to build got damaged.

"Quick and haphazard" doesn't work for the real life-size railroads and it certainly doesn't work for your model either.

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Makin' Tracks: What to expect Before you even start, it's best to know a little overview of the track itself, what's it made of, what form you can expect to find it in when you buy it, the types and grades available to you.

Track, for the most part, is composed of one of four materials. You find it in brass, zinc-coated steel, steel, and nickel sliver. Of these, brass and zinc-coated are the most common, but some hobbyists swear by nickel silver.

Brass is a good conductor of electricity, but the care and cleaning associated with it tends to be a bit overwhelming sometimes.

For one thing, the oxide that forms on it is a poor conductor. That tends to inhibit the optimal working of the train.

In order to keep the train in running condition, you need to clean the rails frequently with track cleaning block. The other way to remove the oxidation is to keep running your cars over them.

The zinc-coated steel also has more than one disadvantage.

When the zinc coating wears away (as it eventually will), it leaves the steel exposed. Yes, you can see the problem right away: steel definitely rusts.

While nickel silver is not quite as good as conductor of electricity as the others, its residual oxide works every bit as well as a conductor as its original coating, providing you with reliable, consistent track no matter what the circumstances. Go figure!

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Bringing your first set home When you buy your first model railroad, you'll notice that the layout of your set is not... well, terribly imaginative.

For the most part, your initial model comes with a circular layout. Perfect for under the Christmas tree, but a little boring to watch for any length of time outside of Christmas morning!

Before you bring this set home, though, you may want to give some thought to where you'll be setting it up in your house (yes, other than the under the tree!)

Your circular set, if it's an S gauge will probably be, once laid out, about 40 inches in diameter. This means you should plan on a space about this size.

Now you could place your set on the floor to start, or you could put a large piece of plywood on a tabletop to get you started. The choice is yours.

Circle or oval?

Some sets, instead of providing you with just a circular route, give you some straight track as well. This offers you the opportunity to have an initial layout of an oval.

If you use two pieces of straight track, putting one on either side of the layout, it creates an oval route for your locomotive so approximately 40 by 50 inches.

If you use two straight tracks on either side, effectively doubling your straight away on both sides, your oval should be about 40 inches by 60 inches.

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You'll love this set up for a while.

Guaranteed. But, I'm also guaranteeing you that you'll only love it "for a while."

One thing I know about the average model railroader is his craving for change.

Before long, you'll be ready to go beyond the basics. After all, a simple circle or oval just isn't a very realistic replication of the prototype, now is it?

Beyond the basics. Yep, that's what it looks like youâ€&#x;re ready for. The look and feel of working with tracks and setting up your "railroad line" the way you, the CEO of your miniature firm sees fit.

Shapes, lengths: What you'll need!

Don't look so smug. That CEO thing is just a title, remember! And you, the CEO don't have a lot of employees to hand off the work to. So I hope you've loosened that tie and rolled up your sleeves!

Though you've decided on the material of your track, you still have a few more decisions to make before you can start laying track.

A Quick Geometry Lesson So you weren't paying attention in geometry class, were you? Didn't think you'd ever use it? Then obviously you didn't count on someday becoming a model railroader.

A basic working knowledge of circles, arcs and radii will prove to be of great benefit to you -- right at the start.

Don't worry! I won't make this too difficult for you.

In geometry, a radius is considered the distance from the center of a circle to any point on the circle itself.

Smaller circles, then, have shorter radii -- yes that is the plural of radius!

The word arc is used to talk about the segment of a specific segment of the circle. Normally, arcs are expressed in degrees. An entire circle has an arc of 360 degrees. A half circle is 180 degrees -- and is much more commonly called a straight line.

Do you know, just as a matter of curiosity, what lengths or shapes of That's it! That's your model track you're going to lay out for your model?railroaders This is one of thoselesson very big geometry for the day!

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considerations. After all, the size, shapes and lengths of your individual tracks will eventually dictate the shape of your ultimate layout.

Several manufacturers make sectional tracks that easily snap together in varying lengths. Some of these manufacturers actually mount their track on plastic roadbed. These sections come not only in straight tracks but curved as well with radii of 15 inch, 18 inch and 22 inch.

But in addition to that, if you buy the Atlas brand, you'll be able to buy 1/3, ½, and 2/3 lengths. What's more, you'll be able to buy these in small straight and curved fitting pieces.

Sectional track utilizes a rail joiner; this is a slotted clip that actually connects the pieces of track together. This piece is essential. It provides not only the physical connections of keeping one piece securely attached to the other, but it also is the means that the electrical connections are made as well. For these reasons, the fit must be absolutely perfect -- it must be a snug fit.

The rail joiner actually slips over the end of the rail. They can, however, be misaligned to the point that one rail is on the top of the joiner. And if this were a real "full-size" railroad, you'd be feeling a very large "bump" when you went over it. The "bump" in fact would be so noticeable and unsettling, that would be possible for the train to derail.

The same thing, as a matter of fact, can happen with your train as well.

We're sure that after all your hard work, you really want to limit those nasty derailments.

Closing the gaps!

Similarly, you should avoid gaps at the ends of the rails on both the straight aways and the curves. Gaps, by the way, are those wider sections

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of the track where no rail exists. They can - and often do -- cause derailment in both the prototype as well as your model.

Whatever you do when you're piecing the tracks together, do not force the sections together. They are manufactured to easily snap together. If you have to force them to fit, then something is wrong. That's why the track makers manufacture those short lengths! Use them!

You're going to discover a simple "law" of laying truck. I'd call it a rule, like many in the pastime call them. But rules mean you can get away with breaking them and nothing happens -- if no one catches you.

A law however is much more cut and dry. Think law of gravity, think Newton's laws of physics. These are more like the "laws of laying track."

Oh, sure you can "break" these laws, but disaster occurs, no ifs, ands, or buts about it. And this is just one of those!

The tighter the curve you create, the smaller the cars and locomotives you can run. A 15-inch curve, for example, limits the size of equipment capable on running on it without derailing.

It requires about 40 inches to lay out a circle of 18 inch radius track. And it takes 48 inches to lay out a curve with a 22 inch radius. Of course, the 22 inch is easier to navigate. But if you're using a 4-foot by 8-foot sheet of plywood, you're going to discover, right away, that the 22 inch just doesn't fit very well. You'll discover, additionally, that using the 18 inch for the most part is just about your best bet.

Three feet of pure flexibility Now, we've covered the basics with regards to sectional tracks. But you need to be let in on one of the dirty little secrets of model railroading. It's called flexible track and it's one of my favorite types.

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Normally found in three-foot sections, flexible track is without a doubt, the standard track used on the majority of model railroads today. And it's exactly as itâ€&#x;s labeled; it's actually flexible -- especially compared to the rigid snap together pieces I've been describing.

You form these creatively made pieces into the shape you want, by simply bending them and they stay in that particular shape.

Its pieces are made by just about every conceivable manufacturer, so you should have no difficulty buying it. Having said that, you need to know that some differences do exist from one make to another.

The term "flexible" in this instance may not match your exact expectations. While they are more flexible than the snap together track, these pieces still have some rigidity to them. One manufacturer has a "flexible" track whose one side is floating and the other side of the track is rigid. While easy to bend, it springs back with relative ease when it's released.

Advantages of flexible track The advantages of this type of track are many. For one thing, you have fewer joints in a run of track. That means a lot to railroaders.

You also have the ability to gently ease your model into curves, instead of going right into them as with the rigid track. Consider this, too! A threefoot section of flexible track can easily replace four nine-inch pieces of sectional track.

And perhaps what I appreciate most about flexible track is now I'm the one in control of the curves, not some stupid rigid track pieces. I can make the curves exactly what I need them to be. I don't feel as if I'm trapped into fixed radii produced for the mass market that couldn't possibly fit the area in which I'm constrained to work.

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If you're considering giving flexible track a try, there are a few secrets that will make it more enjoyable, not only to install, but ultimately use as well.

I realize, first and foremost, that I have to follow those laws of geometry and gravity. By that, I mean that no matter the type of track I chose, if my curve is too sharp (the law of geometry), the train will derail (the law of gravity!) So before I even begin to lay anything down, I take a pencil and literally outline the area I wish my track to follow.

In doing this, I can get feel for the minimum radii I have. And I know I'm not going to go beyond this point.

Sometimes, I'll even use the flexible track as a template of sorts, drawing around apiece that is temporarily laid out just so I can be sure I have the track locations right and that they flow smoothly.

Yes, I'm sure you've probably heard the advice that a yardstick, a pencil and a length of string is all you need for a straight track. But even armed with these instruments, I've been doomed to make errors. When I use the real thing, my efforts go more smoothly.

The real key to the successful use of flexible track though lies in that word "smooth." Let your track "do" everything smoothly. Don't force it into any sudden curves or unexpected kinks. And for that matter, don't try to fit it into any unnatural rises or valley.

Grading: And we don't mean a report card!

Adjusting the grading of your track is a problem many novices to the hobby have a problem with. Remember that your train is a mere model of the prototype. The gradient may not seem like it's very large to you, but

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seriously examine the size of the train you're asking to run up or down those hills.

For the small-sized conductor struggling inside that locomotive, it may look like a steep, steep mountain! Don't let the grade start up too quickly.

One quick way to ensure that you keep your locomotive safe is by placing your eye at track level. Now just "sight" it along to keep the track flowing.

Most individuals don't realize that they have to be super careful if their train is only sitting upon a piece of plywood. This type of ground covering is actually notoriously uneven.

If you should notice any kinks, while you're "eyeballing" the situation, or any bad joints, bumps or dips, straighten them out immediately. If you can see them, they'll probably cause your train trouble.

How steep is too steep?

Just how fast and how steep can you climb to get over a track? Most railroaders agree the maximum climb should be about two percent. By this I mean a two-inch climb in a 100-inch section of track. For ease, you may just want to round this rule of thumb down to 96 inches of track -that makes it an even 8 feet -- which is much easier to measure.

These numbers are especially crucial when you're limited to a layout size of 4 foot by 8 foot. You definitely don't want to go any steeper than a two percent.

You may be able to incorporate a 3 percent grade (three inches per an eight-foot section) with few problems, but going any steeper than that inhibits the hauling power of your locomotive.

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Where are my rail joiners?

You will not necessarily find rail joiners on flexible track. You'll discover that some brands of flexible track you need to trim away the ties completely. On others you may need to trim the spikeheads and the tops of the ties. This allows you to fit the rail joiner from the sectional track with this, and still be supported by the ties.

Don't be alarmed the first time you use this if the rails shift in relation to each other as the track is bent. You'll need to cut the ends even. This involves trimming the inner rail, which extends beyond the outer one.

This can be performed using a small modeler's razor saw. Don't attempt it with a wire cutters; they just don't cut the rail squarely (been there done that!)

One alternative to this problem is that you can cut the rail longer than what you need, then file it to fit. But remember, when you do bend the rail, follow that rule of doing it smoothly, allowing the curve to begin gently.

A word about roadbeds Roadbed is the structure underneath the tracks that life-size track and ties sit on. Railroads spend a lot of time and money keeping it in good shape.

You may want to take a hint from the real world in this area. Why not add roadbed under your tracks to smooth out the plywood. Not only does this help to deaden the sound, it also makes it easier to actually fasten the track down using small track spikes or brads. It also provides the added advantage of giving your layout a raised right-of-way.

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Many modelers swear by a roadbed no thinner than a half inch. A great way of creating this is by using plywood support well with crossmembers or risers.

If you'd like to check into ready-made roadbed, you can always consider using foam, split cork or even vinyl. These products are all sold by more than one manufacturer, so you should have no problem finding these.

Some layout ideas: The Out-and-Home Layout Right about now, you're probably pretty excited to try a little different layout than came with your box. But you're not quite sure what. Why not start off with what I call the "out-and-home" layout.

Imagine this route for your model. Your locomotive starts at the terminal.

You send it out and it arrives at a terminal in another "city." Well, okay, so this terminal has an eerily remarkable similarity to the one it started out it. That's because it is.

But, now you've used the power of your imagination between the "out" and the "home" stopping points of your train. And though it may sound lame when I describe it, once you learn the secrets to creating authentic and realistic scenery (that would be Chapter 6, you'll discover that your layout is not only pretty darn realistic, but quite satisfying as well.

But we can even kick this up another notch using some of the essentials we've just talked about in this chapter. Let's say you're starting off with an oval track on a layout space of 4 foot by 6 foot.

You're about to take your first step on the railroad track to variety using a pair of switches -- a right-hand and a left-hand.

Armed with all of this, you can now create an oval layout with a turn out on straight sides of the oval. These turnouts, when placed here create

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what railroaders call sidings. This is the area where railroad cars sit, out of the way, awaiting a locomotive to retrieve them.

If you then attach uncouplers to the sidings, you can detach these cars using the control box placed near your transformer. Uncouplers, by the way, can either be attached to the straight track or the curved using two rail S-gauge trains.

If switching operations appeals to you, don't hesitate to buy a second pair of switches, two curved sections of track as well as two half-length straight sections. Then you'll be able to make a primary turnout from the oval track itself, as well as a secondary turn out coming out of the first.

While the sidings aren't very long in this layout, they are long enough to meet your immediate needs. They hold a freight car or even two, which will make for...well, complications. And let's face it "complications" are exactly what makes this hobby so interesting.

Okay, let's go one step further than that. Using only your initial two turnouts, you can, create a smaller oval within your larger one. Place one turnout on either side. Then simply connect them with curved track. It's that simple.

Then your miniature conductor has a choice of doing the long route or the short route (and once you create scenery, you have the opportunity to develop an extra town or two at all the appropriate places!). Think about how much fun your kids you'll have deciding which route to take (that is if you let them touch your layout!)

Now, I could detail a couple more layouts here, but I think your creative juices are already flowing. If you have that double oval creation working, and you have two extra turnouts... think of all the ways you can use it; two sidings on either side of the other end of the oval. A second alternative curve inside the larger one, so that now you have one complete large oval and one complete smaller one.

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Well, I'm sure you're way ahead of me on this. I'll keep the rest of my suggestions to myself, as I can see you're already hard at "play" designing your own individual layout.

Help! My railroad is outgrowing my space Ahh! The true measurement of a person's passion for this hobby is when he or she utters those words: "My railroad is outgrowing the room I've placed it in!"

Short of convincing your spouse it's time to move to a larger house, or surrendering the master bedroom to remodel it to use as the new home for your railroading hobby, you may need to be creative in gaining more space.

Your first decision is to carefully examine where you're keeping your train set up now. What do you really need? If the room is large enough to hold a larger table and a wider layout, then you may not have to move to entirely new room.

If, on the other hand, this table already overwhelms the room, it's time to scout through the house looking for a more useable space. It could be that you may just want to start a second layout in another room (how kind is your spouse?). It could be as simple as confiscating the adjoining room. Or you may have a grown child whose bedroom is not being used.

A whole-house train?

Some individuals find a true delight in creating a scenario by which the trains travel through the entire house in some form. Some create shelf space near the ceiling (like you find in some old-fashioned toy stores), others use the flow.

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And still other enthusiastic hobbyists allow their trains to roll right out the door and into their gardens in the back yard. But just remember if you do this, you have living creatures to deal with -- dogs, cats. You even have flower beds and herb gardens that may eventually encroach on your private railroad line.

Whether you're changing venues completely, "confiscating" another room of your house, or just having your train pass through more rooms, you'll have to consider the costs upfront. Let's face it, it just wouldn't be cool to get started only to find your train line stops somewhere in the kitchen to become part of Fido's toys!

Power!

Now you've hooked up your track, but don't expect those trains to go anywhere at the moment. Why not? Have you hooked up the power yet? I didn't think so. Not to worry. I'm sure you can do it.

First off, most of the sets now come with a terminal section. Armed with this you'll have no problem getting the power you need to move your track through your layout.

Remember those rail joiners we just talked about. We said that they not only physically hold the rails, but ensure the electrical connections as well. For the most part, these electrical connections are hidden away so most people never notice the connection.

If you'd like, you can solder wires to the outer faces of the rail. But think twice before you do that. You run the risk of melting the plastic ties. And in the process you're losing the correct gauge of the track.

A few companies even make retailer track sections some of which look like road crossings. There are also track crossing with different angles.

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This allows for the tracks to cross each other or even to create figure eights. The sectional track from various manufacturers is for the most part interchangeable.

Don't let them call you "loopy" But you can certainly call your track loopy. Adding a loop to your layout allows you to run your trains continuously. And get this: a loop within a loop allows you to actually run two trains at once. Now, how cool is that.

But, wait till you learn about "turn outs." These are the marvelously creative structures that allow you (and the real-life trains, as well) to run two trains on one track. Oh yes, you'll love this.

Turn outs. You probably are more familiar with the term switches. These are the devices that allow the trains to be transferred or switch from one track to another. In model railroading, they can be found in different sizes as well as varying shades of quality. The most common of this sectional track is commonly just referred to as a No. 4. This piece roughly fits in the space of a 9-inch sectional straight piece.

The piece that fits to the left is (creatively enough) called a left or lefthand turn out. The piece that fits to the right is called a right or righthand turn out.

Both of these, though, have a straight route through them. Something called a wye (think "Y" for its shape) turn out curves off to both the left and right, but it has no straight ahead part. Numbers used with the turn out describe the size. The smaller the number, for instance, the sharper the turnout.

A turn out referred to as a Number 4, actually moves away one inch for every four on the straight side. A No. 6 turn out or switch moves away one inch for every six on the straight side. This means that the No. 6 turn

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out is not as sharp a curve as the No. 4. And the No. 6 takes up no more space, since it's not longer.

In terms of sectional track, you could very easily consider the No.4 turn out to be similar to a curve with an 18-inch radius. The No. 6 turn out, similarly, can be easily compared to a 22-inch radius curve.

Even the least expensive switches probably will work very well for you right out of the box. But beware of this. The least expensive versions also use very thin metal stamping for the moveable point rail. Because of its thinness, this point needs to be straightened with a pair of needle nose pliers every now and then. You may also find that you'll have to tighten the pivot location as well.

The more expensive switches, by contrast, have points made from the same material as the stock rails. They may also have a notch in the stock rails so the points do not pick at the passing wheels of the trains.

But there are many different kinds of turn out controls which operate electrically, and many of these use different modes. For example, some controls are mounted right on the turnout itself. Others are mounted under the bench nicely hidden out of sight.

Then there are those "snap" action controls which literally make a snapping sound when switched on. Just about everyone on the market today also comes with auxiliary contacts which indicate the position of the turnout or operate some other signal on the layout.

Some of these snap action machines, though, need a completely separate solenoid or relay which must be wired in parallel before they provide that auxiliary contact.

Just about all snap action turnouts work on low voltage -- 16 volts or less -- alternating current (what we normally call AC). This stands in contrast to the trains themselves which operate on DC.

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Once you get more acquainted with the hobby, you may decide to use snap action switch machines with your model railroad layout. If you do, many hobbyists will advise you to actually buy and use a separate poer pack dedicated solely to this purpose. Why? Granted, all power packs come with AC terminals, the actual activation of the switch machine, you'll discover, slows the speed of your train. You may want to consider purchasing a little higher quality power pack than the one the manufacturer supplies with your train.

Frog?

You can also see the difference in switches when it comes to frogs. Yes, frogs. A frog in a turn out is the point at which the rails cross each other.

Some switches have metal frogs; some bring the rails up to each other, then they're insulated with plastic.

If your frog is insulated, but not powered, then you may have issues with locomotives stalling on the switch. This may be especially prevalent if you're running an "N" gauge model. If you're running "HO" you'll experience less of this, but that's not to say you'll be total issue-free.

Because you probably won't be.

Some turn outs come with a long switch machine mounted on one side.

Others come equipped with a removable machine. Still others have what is called an "under the table" electrical switch machine. There are also manual "ground throw' switch machines.

Same, but electrically different Now, let's talk about one more type of turn out. This one is physically the same as the ones I've been describing. But electrically it's different. The

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ones we've spoken about have the siding electrically live with the same power as the mainline. The only exception to this is if an electrical toggle switch is installed.

This other type of turnout is called a selective turnout. It selects the way the power is routed. It does this through the way the device is thrown.

When the switch is thrown for the siding, the siding itself is powered while the straight route goes dead. Similarly, when it's set for the main, the siding is dead. Thus, a different wiring situation is created. You must be certain, though, that the rails leading out of the turnout are insulated properly to prevent short circuits.

How DCC revolutionizes model railroad wiring And indeed it has. Any discussion of DCC -- which is an acronym for Digital Command Control -- must, of necessity, start with the days of the hobby prior to DCC. It's the only way to truly under this awesome leap.

Prior to the creation of DCC, both the speed and direction of the model train had been controlled by adjusting the voltage and polarity on the rails. The higher the voltage, naturally the faster your train scooted around the tracks. The lower the voltages, then the slower the locomotive moved.

If the right rail has a positive charge with respect to the left one, the locomotive moves forward. If the right rail though has a negative charge, it moves backwards.

And that's just fine. If you're only controlling a single train. There's a bunch of us die-hard hobbyists though that need to control more than one at a time.

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Throughout the years, the more ingenious railroaders among us have devised all sorts of tactics to be able to do just that. But every one of those methods revolved around what's called block wiring. In this technique, the railroad layout is divided up into separate electrical blocks, each of which controls only one locomotive. Called cab control, a cab -- or throttle -- is then used to control each individual train. Arrays of various selector switches then connect each block.

Without a doubt the best form of this method is called progressive cab control. In this one the train runs on the layout, while the connection between the cab and the block is automatically changed from one block to the next using relays. The first block is then free for another train to use.

This worked great -- if you only have one or two trains. For layouts with more than two trains, the task of wiring this becomes a bit overwhelming.

But hobbyists solved this problem in stride. The creation of command control came into being. This is a method of controlling the individual locomotives at the same time on the same rails. Now we're talkin'!

First developed by General Electric in 1964, it created quite a stir throughout the hobby. But, as it should happen, the popularity of model railroading grew right about the same time the largest strides in electronics were occurring in the toy industry. And our hobby was lucky enough to reap some of these rewards.

Soon, two commercial systems were developed that actually used audio tone to control the individual trains. Again, this was a marvelous step, but still left the hobbyist limited in the number of trains that could be run at one time (are you beginning to see that model railroaders are never satisfied running just two or even three trains?).

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32 or 64? Wow! Now we're talking control!

By the late 1970s, several companies had cracked the code of how to run at least 16 trains on the same track (yes, they were some long segments of track!). Soon more firms entered the market with some touting the ability to run as many as 32 or even 64 trains at once!

While this sounds great, the complications here became the lack of standardization among these firms. Hobbyists could find no common ground among the various systems. So, by the late 1980s, the National Model Railroaders Association examined the issue to see if a standard could be created.

The group studied all the commercially available command control systems. Eventually settling on a system, the group chose one that it believed had the best electric signaling system, and offered the fewest limitations on expanding the number of trains run.

The group took the basic design and expanded on even this. The result is something called Digital Command Control. It's more than just a Johnnycome-lately of control. It is now the standard manufacturers use to make their products compatible with others on the market.

The signal used in this method is an alternating DC waveform. It contains digital information. This coded signal is what actually controls a specific decoder placed in one specific locomotive. This placement causes it to use as much of the voltage of the track is it needs to move either forward or backward.

This same signal decoder allows the headlight to go on and off as well.

The locomotive can even dim the lights if it needs to. Decoders are simply set so that locomotives which have never run together with a conventional power pack can now "doublehead" or even operate in a "pusher service" without any loco working too hard.

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Thanks to DCC, many of the newer locomotives even have light boards which can be removed, being easily replaced with a decoder.

You will still see block wiring for some time to come though. It may still be used for proper power distribution as well as detection or for the proper functioning of signal system. But it definitely won't be the main player.

But the most exciting aspect is that DCC can control more than just the locomotives on your track. Got a crane on your layout you'd like to hook up to it? Go right ahead.

"Next Stop: Locomotives and Rolling Stock!"

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Chapter 5: Locomotives and Rolling Stock What's on your train tracks? In this chapter we talk about the differences in types of railroad cars and locomotives: do you buy already-built pieces, kits, or do you scratch build?

Let's take stock of your stock!

R

olling stock. No, no matter what you may imagine, it does not refer to brand of beer. But, I admit it's not a phrase that's not used everyday, unless you're a model railroader, that is. Then it's music to the ears. It's really what the hobby is all about: your rolling stock.

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If haven't already, guessed rolling stock is a comprehensive term that covers all freight and passenger equipment you run on your model railroad.

But just how much rolling stock do you need? Did you notice that I didn't ask how much you wanted? All avid model railroaders have a single-word answer to that question: More!

Before you go crazy buying everything your local hobby store has (and end up sending his youngest child through medical school doing so!), consider some of these qualifying questions. These should help rein in your desires or at the very least spread out your "necessary" purchases over an extended period of time!

But more importantly, by answering these questions honestly, you won't review your rolling stock one day only to find there's very little of it you can actually use.

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

Is there a specific railroad that I want to model my layout after?



Does the rolling stock I'm considering buying actually reflect the era I'm modeling? Is that a concern for me?



Do I want a model that's already built or do I want to build a model from a kit?



Will this particular piece safely make it around my curves on my layout?



Will this piece meet the clearance requirements above and beside my tracks?



Is this a piece I'm buying for display only or am I going to run this on my railroad?

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

Will other people get to handle it? For that matter, am I allowing my children to handle it?



Do I really need this particular piece?



Can I really afford this particular piece?

Good questions, all of them! The last question is probably one you're tempted to ignore. But, it really is one of the most important questions that can be asked. Don't even be ashamed to admit it. You've given yourself a budget for your hobby. We all have.

Well, in some cases our spouses have given us a budget. If left unrestrained, it's likely we would spend ourselves into the poor house, because many of us just get so involved in the hobby. It's just a sign of passion!

Distinction: Toy cars vs. model cars It's about time we make it clear: Yes, there is a difference in quality between those locomotives and cars you buy as "toy train sets" (you know, the under-the-Christmas tree, Dad I just have to have it set!) and those pieces that serious model railroader use.

And in a way, you can certainly understand this. Every parent has been placed in this situation. You child wants something very expensive, whether it's a locomotive for his railroad hobby or if it's an expensive instrument for music class.

Now, you're placed in a tough spot. On the one hand, you sincerely want to expand his horizons. But, on the other hand, you know children -short attention spans may mean these items are soon forgotten.

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Well, that's basically the difference in the toy train market and the model train market. Toy train sets are priced more moderately so that parents can provide their children with an introduction to the hobby -- as well as giving them something great with which to play.

Unfortunately, these moderately priced sets and pieces lack the quality of the model railroaders experience when they buy the higher-priced cars and locomotives.

Ah! But this is a double-edged sword. Because the lower quality can be discouraging. It's no fun -- and not very realistic -- to have to do push your locomotive by hand before it connects with the rail and runs on its own.

Locomotives Even when you buy model railroad quality locomotives, you must be discerning. Many hobbyists, especially newcomers to the pastime, complain about what I've just mentioned: the need to push the locomotive before it starts running on its own.

Why should this be? Actually, there could be two possible reasons for this. The first is exactly what we've just mentioned: a poor quality locomotive itself.

You see, to run efficiently, the locomotive's wheels must be able to easily access the electricity on the rails themselves and transfer that to the electric motor in the car. The motor, then in turn, travels to the gears which begin to move, activating the movement of the locomotive.

The more wheels which are able to collect this electricity from the tracks to transfer to the motor, the greater the pulling power of the train.

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So you see, not only do you need quality wheels, but you also need a quality motor in your pieces. The better the motor, the easier it is for your locomotive to start. Not only that, but the larger the motor is the smoother it will actually turn over for you using far less electric power.

One of the criteria that assure good contact with the rails is the weight of the car. The heavier the car, generally speaking, the more confidence you can have that the contact with the tracks will be good.

But now here's another aspect of a quality locomotive. Flywheels. (Didn't know you'd need such an extensive knowledge of electric motors, now did you.) A flywheel, by the way is a heavy wheel or disk that rotates on a shaft. The momentum of this rotation provides near uniform rotational speed to the shaft as well as all the parts connected to the shaft.

The flywheel helps to slow the initial rotation of the motor, so that it starts nice and smoothly instead of lurching forward. And the flywheel also plays an essential role when it comes time to brake. It slows the rotation so when you turn the electricity off, the motor smoothly slows, instead of coming to a sudden screeching halt.

But while this makes the locomotive more realistic -- and definitely "push free" -- it does add to the cost of the final product.

Consider HO and N scale You can understand, then, why the model railroader pays more for having these items included in his equipment. In fact, if you're searching for top of the line authenticity as well as quality, consider investing in either the "HO" or the "N" scale (or both if you're feeling rich!) The locomotives in both of these scales include many of the features which make them a joy to run.

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The next time you're browsing through a hobby store, check the quality of the locomotives in these two gauges. I can just about guarantee you that even though the body of this car may be plastic, you'll discover sound model railroad quality underneath it all.

The locomotives in these two gauges have all-metal frames to give the car that weight we previously talked about that was essential for the electric contact as well as for the necessary traction.

The all-metal wheels will be of superior quality. And every single one on the piece picks up the electricity from the track. And without even looking I can also be near 100 percent sure that the wheels are geardriven by the motor (Ah! Should I call myself the psychic railroader? No?) And the motor itself? Well, I can make some accurate predictions here too. It's made of a superior "cans" type of construction. This means it draws very little current and turns with precision. And it also has the essential flywheels we've just discussed for those smooth, realistic starting and stopping motions.

By contrast, the locomotives designed for the less expensive toy train market don't include those wonderful, vital flywheels as well as motors that aren't that great in quality.

In addition to their plastic bodies, the frames themselves are plastic as well, unlike those created specifically for the "HO" and "N" gauge markets.

And you can be sure that only select wheels on these less expensive models actually collect the electricity.

But more than that, these locomotives are also probably quite light in comparison to the model railroad version. Some versions, though, do have several metal plates glued inside of them in various places in an attempt to increase the weight.

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Buying your locomotive So you find yourself purchasing your first locomotive. Don't just buy the first one you see. Here are some general tips to keep in mind.

First, don't even think twice about taking the locomotive out of the box.

This is essential. Make sure that all of the wheels are metal. While this doesn't necessarily mean that each of these actually picks up the electricity, at least it's a start. If the car doesn't come equipped with every wheel being metal, then don't buy it.

Turn each of these metal wheels with your fingers. Those wheels that turn easily are not gear driven. If they are difficult to turn, they're gear driven. And you want them gear driven!

If you're in a hobby shop (which I recommend) ask them to test run the car. The store probably already has a track set up. Should you test run it and it needs to be push started then don't buy it.

The clerk may try to tell you the locomotive failed because the track is dirty. But don't take his word for that. Ask him to wipe the track with a rag and try again. If the locomotive still needs push started, don't buy that particular car.

Purchasing rolling stock This same type of exacting care should be taken when you're buying rolling stock as well even though we're looking at a few different features. Since we've spent so much time discussing wheels, let's start with those. After all, wheels can literally make or break a successful rail line.

For all cars other than your locomotive, by the way, it doesn't matter whether the wheels are metal or plastic, as long as they meet several

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other criteria. You see, these wheels aren't connecting to the electric output.

The wheels on your rolling stock -- whether it be an open top hopper or a gondola -- should be free from any wobbling. They should also turn freely. This is easy enough to test. Simply turn the car upside down and spin the wheels. After you physically let go of the wheels, they should continue to spin for a while. (I know, this is the complete opposite of what you look for in a locomotive!)

If they stop immediately or wobble, then you really don't want to buy this particular piece.

The best wheels, though, are those connected to metal axles. And the wheels should be a specific distance from each other on the same axle. If the wheels are placed too close together they'll naturally fall between the rails. And if the wheels are spaced too far apart, they, as you can imagine, won't sit properly on the rail either.

If the wheels are plastic and the axle is metal then you can easily adjust the wheels as you need to. By contrast, some cars have the axle and wheels molded as one. This provides you with no options.

Regardless of the car -- locomotive or rolling stock -- buy short. This may sound like stock market advice, it isn't, but it's a mantra most railroaders live by. The problem with the longer equipment is that the pieces may give you trouble as they round your curves. The overhang of the ends of the longer equipment may cause derailments.

In a similar vein, you should probably buy the short diesel locomotives.

The longer ones, modeled after the old fashioned steam prototypes, can be problematic on curves and short turn outs.

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In addition to that, the model versions of the steam versions are actually must more difficulty to place on the track because of the number of wheels they have.

By the same token, you may want to stay away from the extremely short steam locomotives with only four or six wheels as well as the four-wheel locomotives. They usually don't run well at all.

In the way of passenger cars, you may want to pass on buying the long cars. This just causes problems on tight curves as well. In fact, some manufacturers make short passenger cars specifically for those tight curves.

While this sounds great, you may discover that they look out of proportion to your other equipment.

Build your own I've throw a lot of "do's" and "don'ts" at you when you purchase alreadybuilt cars. You may be throwing up your hands right now, thinking: All right then! I'll show you! I'll just build my own.

Now that's the spirit. And you have two basic options. You can either build your rolling stock from kits or you can scratch build them.

The build-from-a-kit option is one many of the model railroaders choose.

And there's a lot to be said for this option. Consider, for example the satisfaction and pride you feel every time you complete your kit car. You may not get that instant thrill in running it immediately, but I believe you get a deeper, fuller feeling of ownership of your railroad when you piece that rolling stock together.

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And don't get me started on scratch building your cars. Yes, it may be a bit harder, but the level of satisfaction also rises with it. You don't have to build the most complicated car in the yard either. You can start off with a simple flat car or even a box car. Simple lines, less detail. And the parts for these cars are usually easily available.

If neither of these options really appeals to you, then compromise. Buy an undecorated car or kit. All you have to do then is to add the reporting marks or place appropriate decals on.

Transporting your transportation Wait a minute! Where are you going with that armful of rolling stock?

Aren't you fearful you're going to drop them? Here, let me help you with them.

There is, you know, a much easier -- and safer -- method of storing and transporting your transportation. Many model railroaders I know use plastic tote boxes. You can purchase them at just about any larger store that has a large-size toy department. They modify these totes by adding wooden dowels as handles for the top tray.

Then they glue plastic pipe capes to a piece of ABS pipe -- yes, the type you can find in the plumbing section of your neighborhood hardware store.

The cars then rest on Styrofoam, separated by Styrofoam dividers custom cut to the length of your individual cars. And of course, they have a separate tote box for their locomotives!

"Next stop: Scenery and Structures!"

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Chapter 6: Scenery and Structures What? You didn't really think that we'd let your train run around a track void of any personality? You need to make sure your train has people to appreciate it and factories, mills and mines that depend on it.

M

aking the lie of the land look real. And having a great time in the process.

Yep. That just about sums up the purpose of the scenery on a railroad track layout. It adds that final touch or realism.

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And it gives your layout that "Ah!" appeal. Kids of all ages will admire how authentic the surrounding environment is. But more than that they will absolutely marvel at how it's all in miniature.

Let's face it, there's something totally mesmerizing about a city that is a detailed tiny version of the real thing.

And many model railroaders take this portion of the hobby every bit as seriously as they do the locomotives and cars themselves. It's amazing how detail oriented these enthusiasts become as they create an entire miniature world on a large sheet of plywood!

Don't shake your head like that. Of course you can do it, if you decide to.

You could, to get you started, go to the hobby shop to buy your buildings, vehicles, men, women and children. You can pick up your mountains and your mountain tunnels.

And there's absolutely no shame in that either, especially when you're first starting out. But there just may come that day, when you say, "Yep, you know I think I can do." And the next thing you know you're heading out the door to buy those supplies. Either way, just keep in mind that the goal of this hobby is to thoroughly enjoy yourself.

In many ways, it's your scenery that makes or break the attractiveness of your layout. As a model railroader it pains me to say this, but I do have to admit that trains are only a very small part of our world. If you really analyze it, a railroad is nothing more than a ribbon of steel that connects cities, manufacturers, industries, mills, and yards.

Spreading out beyond that steel ribbon there's a world. A world that the train industry connected more than 100 years ago, a world of families, of worries, of joys, of life.

The trains are part of that, but only part. So if we can display the trains within the natural surroundings of the day, then we have really shown

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the true nature of what railroads meant to those 100 years ago and their true role in history.

Let your imagination soar!

What you chose as your scenery, a small town, a coal mine, a large town, a steel mill, a textile mill -- or anything else you can imagine -- is totally up to you. The cool thing is no matter what you choose you can find it in miniature. You can either find kits to build specific models. Or you can find ready-to-set on your layout pieces of these various scenes.

Let me clue you in on a secret. Most of us, when it comes to scenery, opt to build our cities from kits. We neither have the time, the patience nor the expertise to build this type of scenery from scratch. (Did I just hear you breathe a sigh of relief?)

Another reason many of us use kits is quite simple. The choices and styles and varieties are simply amazing. All you need to do is walk into a serious, dedicated hobby shop to see the overwhelming number of structures that come in kits. This is especially true if you running HO scale and N. It will take your breath away.

And if you look a little closer you'll notice the most common material used for this purpose is plastic. There's no shame in that. Today, the quality of plastic models is remarkable.

Worried that your town will look just like your friend's? No worries here.

The odds work against that. But if you want to ensure that your kit building isn't going to look like anyone else's, add a few details unique to your feed mill. Or leave a detail or two off. This will be enough to give it that one-of-a-kind pop out look.

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Here's another trick I've used. I've combined parts. If I think a building should have a different front, like the one I just bought with this kit, I put it on. After all, I am in charge of this city, now aren't I? Some model railroaders even go so far as to cut their kits in pieces. They use these as the basis of a building of their own unique design. This habit is so popular it even has a name: kitbashing.

It's a shame the action has been given that violent-sounding name, because the finished products of these "kitbashers" are usually quite beautiful.

In addition to plastic kits, you can also find wood kits and even kits whose pieces are made from a hard plaster, cast polyester resin and cardstock.

You'll have your choice of scenery kits with metal panels that will need to be cemented with cyanoacrylate cement -- or a few that even require soldering.

Forced perspective It's time to get one thing straight. Forced perspective is not you trying to fit into your favorite pair of jeans from 20 years ago (We have other names for that, but we won't discuss them here!)

Forced perspective is the creation of elements of your scenery in varying sizes, so that objects and people who are supposedly farther away appear smaller, just as you would be viewing them in real life.

When you add this touch of realism to your background, you're adding a layer of realism over which people will marvel. And while this may sound complicated it's really quite easy. It just takes a little organizing and forethought.

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All you really need to do is to pay special attention to relationships of objects in the foreground of your scenery to those in the background as well as the height, scale and in some cases even the color of the items.

Viewing the foreground; Imagining the background Consider for this, a scene that slopes downward from the back to the front of your viewing area. This serves you well because it provides more viewing area -- and more chances to create good scenery. It also lends itself perfectly to this technique.

The background, additionally, is the perfect way to support the illusion of your three-dimensional world. But more than that, it can make your layout appear larger.

You can, once you gain some expertise at this technique ,give your limited space several layers of background. And this alone achieves the appearance of even greater depth.

One avid hobbyist I know took a roll of photographer's background paper -- you know the blue type that you pose in front of for your photo. He stapled it to the wall. Eventually, the train layout would be placed in front of this.

He would eventually place the layout of his town in front of this. But not before he added a few touches to ensure it would appear as realistic a sky as possible.

Try white chalk to create clouds. The lower the clouds on this paper, the more distant they'll appear in the scenery. The easiest way to draw clouds, by the way, is to use the sides of your chalk and just "color" horizontally across the paper.

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Don't settle for just white clouds either. You may want to darken the sky with a few gray clouds as well.

Now you're ready to work on the background itself. Start from the back, which represents the items at a distance on top of the mountains. It's fine - in fact, encouraged -- for the mountains farthest from you to be hazy, even muted-looking. It adds to the illusion of distance.

A crucial element of successful forced perspective is the observation that your objects farthest from you look the smallest.

Now if you want to kick the perspective aspect up a notch, consider even using a layout with two different scale trains. The smaller HO train placed to the rear of the layout, with an "O" gauge to the front adds an unparalleled touch of realism to your layout. Your foreground and background scenery jump to life when you can create them together like this.

Lineside Details... Here's just the ticket Yes, your forced perspective gives your town an added touch of realism.

But getting the detailed effects of the signage and other utensils used by the train's personnel that run next to the train are very important as well.

And you're probably not up for a field trip walking next to a railroad track to take photos of what you need to make. Well, maybe you are. But there's a better way to ensure that the little details of these sign posts and other instruments are 100 percent accurate.

Consider using this suggestion of Matt Snell, in the September 2009 issue of Model Railroader. Snell used the resources of the "real" railroad. He uses a standard railroad plan book for what the individual railroad line he's building.

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Yes, the standard "playbook" if you will of the real-life railroad. It's just about a given that every train line has one (for that matter most businesses of any kind from restaurants to car manufacturers have similar publications.

If you've ever worked for any kind of larger manufacturing plant or factory that created products, you know exactly what I'm talking about.

The standard plan book for a railroad includes such exacting details as engineering drawings for every possible aspect of running a railroad from light bulbs (yes, we're serious!) to signal installation. Imagine, if you will for just a moment how valuable this could be to your mission of "realism."

These books are the bibles of operation for everyone from maintenance workers to outside contractors. But for you -- the scale modeler -- it can be an avenue to add authentic details to your layout.

You have the diagrams for everything that even remotely remains to the railroad. All you need to do is downscale it.

Ah! But where do you find this nugget of realism?

The internet. That should be where your search begins. Here you'll discover more than one railroad historical society that has these books stashed in their archives. Heck, they might even have some for sale.

Just a note that if these books are tucked gingerly away in the archives of some historical repository, you probably need to be a member of this particular historical society in order to view them.

Beyond that, though, you may discover some standard planning books on railroad-related web sites monitored by independent groups, clubs or even private hobbyists.

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And while you're looking, don't forget to hop on eBay to see if anyone has them for sale. It's actually pretty amazing what you find on this site.

Another great place to search is the National Model Railroad Association's Directory of Rail Sites, www.nmra.org/directory/. If you haven't visited this site yet, it's a must for both the novice and experienced model railroader. This organization is dedicated to the hobby, like no other association in existence.

Not quite sure what keywords to use for your search? Why not start with "railroad standard plans" to see what emerges. If the results from these words don't work for you, try plans, drawings ---- even blueprints.

And have fun creating the most accurate lineside details possible.

Let him with no terrain Cast the first... rock?

There are many elements to your scenery. You're going to discover that you'll have to urge to either create or buy a tremendous number of small detailed items all aimed at adding realism to the overall theme.

But, if you're considering making that mountain, also consider "casting" some rocks in the process. After all, there is really nothing more impressive than a rugged mountain range packed with jagged rock faces.

Oh, yes, mountains do appear to be solid pieces. In reality once you examine them close up and personal they are really individual layers of rocks, stacked one upon another.

After all, isn't this how essentially geologists "tell time"? By the different layers or strata of rock? They can, by detailing the different layers of rock

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in the side of a mountain tell you something about the time period this rock was laid.

With this in mind, you just may want to try your hand at casting a rock or two. You may decide at some point to create an entire mountain using individually cast layers of rock. Or you may just want to add a few strategically placed layers to create a hint of layers.

And don't worry, it's not like I'm going to show you how to do this out of thin air. We'll start off with one of the easiest methods around: rock molds. (Now I hear you breathe a sigh of relief!)

The magic of... Rubber rock molds?!

The next time you head for the hobby shop, look specifically for rubber molds for rocks. You'll be able to find these in your hobby shop (trust me, you can, you've just never bothered to look!). Several manufacturers make these in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

These molds produce surprisingly realistic rock formations. You'll also be pleased with how relatively inexpensive these are. Of course, the best part is -- as with any mold -- you can reuse them. Some of my friends have had the same molds for more than 15 years. Now that's durability...like a...er...rock!

As you develop into scenery making you'll learn how you can even create your own molds.

But for the moment, this will do you just nicely. You'll also want to be sure to purchase some kind of plaster that will be easy to use. You'll also want it lightweight when it dries and (yes, we are asking a lot here) have the ability to reproduce the sharp details every well-made rock should have.

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One brand, Hydrocal, can answer your needs. But don't think I'm endorsing them. If you have questions on the type of plaster to use ask your hobby store owner, he'll be glad to point you in the right direction.

Now that you're relaxed about this project and you have your materials in front of you, I'm sure you're beginning to see that casting rock is not difficult, doesn't take a long time, and quite frankly, a lot of fun to do.

With a little direction, it's one of those projects the kids can do while you're working on another aspect of the scenery.

There are two common methods most individuals use. The first is called straight casting and the second is called casting in place. Let's talk about straight casting first. It's pretty straight forward to describe.

This means that you cast the rock, let the plaster harden and remove it from the mold. You can then use it whenever you want. Yeah, it's that easy!

Casting in place Casting in place, in contrast, requires a bit more finesse on your part. You pour your plaster into your mold, but you don't allow it to set all the way.

You press the mold onto the layout while the rock casting is still soft and pliable. In effect, you're wrapping the rock around any shapes -- or mountains! -- you like. After about 30 minutes, the plaster should set and you can remove the mold. And admire your creation.

Stand back and look at your scenery. It looks just about as realistic as it can be. Miniature families traveling to and fro. Small factories busy producing products. Tiny stores conducting business.

Yep, pretty realistic... except for one small omission. Just look at all those buildings you've created. They look brand new! And so they would.

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Wouldn't you like to enhance that realism? Why don't you make them look like they're aged a bit?

It's something many model railroaders do. And it's really quite easy. It's called weathering. Look around you. How many buildings have you seen that are bright, shiny and new looking -- especially when they're supposed to represent an earlier age?

You can easily simulate the accumulation of dirt, soot, even that rusty appearance many buildings eventually acquire with a variety of paints.

When you apply these paints in a thin, washed-out fashion, you'll be pleased how they've seemed to "age" nearly overnight.

You may want to start your weathering process using a flat, water-based acrylic paint. Just be sure that they don't have any solvents that might attack the plastic or the existing paint on the model itself.

And don't worry. If you think that your "weathering" effects don't look quite right, you can easily wipe these off before the paint dries and start over.

But don't be too critical. Before you weather any building, become a student of older buildings. Study the details of structures, how soot lays on the walls, how the dirt splashed from past rains are splayed on the sides of the buildings.

And while you're observing, don't forget to take a serious look (who else but a railroader or a budding Leonardo Da Vinci would do this?) how the sun has affected different structures? Some sections of the buildings may be more faded than others, depending on the position of the sun.

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So you want a rusty aluminum roof?

You may want to make that aluminum roof of your mill appear rusty.

Here's a great way to do that, using what has been dubbed a "sweet 'n' sour" solution. Soak several steel wool pads in household vinegar for a minimum of a few days up to a maximum of a week.

This acetic nature of this solution partially dissolves the steel wool. Brush this steel wool-laden mixture on the aluminum or even wood. The iron readily combines with the oxygen in the air to form rust.

When weathering wood, you'll want to lay it on sheet of glass already moistened with the solution before you douse the piece. This helps to prevent it from warping. If you're too impatient to wait for this to dry, just take a hair blower and "blow dry" it. If you don't think the wood is as dark as you like it, just do it again.

This method, by the way, works equally as well with plaster. You simply brush on this solution and allow it to dry. If the effect isn't as dark as you had envisioned, just repeat the process.

You can also buy marker pens commercially that are made expressly for creating this effect. There's even a set that's aimed at weathering vehicles, bridges and plastic buildings.

It's distressing...But it's what you want Distressing. Usually that's a term that disturbs us. But in model railroading (and a few other hobbies) it's not an attitude but an action.

Individuals in this avocation distress buildings to make the new appear old. And here's a clever and quick way in which to do that. In a nutshell, it involves placing two different shades of paint onto one building in a very realistic way.

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Paint the initial base coat of your building with a lighter shade than the final appearance will be. Let this dry. Then dab on some rubber cement in specific areas. These areas will eventually be those that appear "distressed" and beat up.

Let the rubber cement dry. Now, without removing that rubber cement, pain your finished coat onto your building. That's right, you're painting right over that dried rubber cement.

Once your finished coat has dried, then gently peel the rubber cement of.

Of course, you realize this takes the finished coat with it, but reveals underneath it the lighter, base coat.

Looking pretty distressed, isn't it? But you're not quite done yet. Next you'll want to brush this with a wash of very thinned out mixture of India ink and alcohol. Now your building looks distressed.

Don't forget to add some soot to a few buildings. Even Santa Clause ends up with some of this black stuff covering him when he does his yearly travel gig! Soot builds up, for the most part on smokestacks, over tunnel portals and engine houses, giving it a fine dusting of black.

If in don't weather you material from an up and down perspective, as it were. Most weathering effects are vertical. After all that's how the rain usually falls.

Weathering your locomotives and rolling stock Well, you don't think every train stays bright and shiny forever now do you? Just as you've applied weathering techniques to the structures in your scenery, you may want to weather your locomotives and rolling stock as well.

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You could go to the hobby shop and buy something called chalk weathering. Or if you have children, or grandchildren, you can just as easily borrow their chalk.

Scrape sticks of chalk onto a piece of paper, choosing the darker tones of coloring or mixing several different colors of scraping together until you get a darker color. Then simply brush it on the locomotives and your rolling stock. You will also want to then spray this with Dullcoat. This ensures your weathering won't fall off.

If you use commercial weathering products on the other hand, you won't have to spray to ensure their adherence. These products already contain a fixative that helps to keep the chalk affixed to the surface.

The added benefit of using commercial chalk is the wide array of colors that are immediately applicable to your needs. They come in those colors that you use with the greatest frequency, like black, burnt sienna, rust... that range that most resembles the residue, soot and rust on trains.

And there you have it! A complete miniature world, complete with people, buildings and other structures, scenery and especially your railroad cars.

Congratulations! I hope you experience years of enjoyment from your hobby -- and your children develop an enthusiasm for the model railroad hobby as well.

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Conclusion Well, just look at yourself. All dressed up in your train engineer's cap, your pinstriped bib overalls. You're happily running your train, guiding your town, your factories, and all the people populating them.

In a way you feel as if you're the ruler of your own little kingdom, now don't you?

Well, I'm happy that I had some small hand in keeping you on track with your new-found hobby! But you do realize that this is just the beginning of a long, satisfying love affair with railroads -- both the model varieties as well as the full-sized prototypes.

The best years of your relationship with this wonderful pastime are ahead of you. And you have potential to transfer to this on to your children and your grandchildren.

What a very fortunate person you are.

Knowing that you're only taking the very beginning steps in this hobby, it's time you look into all the resources at your fingertips. Take time to join local model railroad associations both local and national. From there, you'll discover even more resources to guide you to even more hours of happiness.

Have a great time!

"All Aboard!"

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Saving Money On Model Trains Building model trains is fun and exciting, but paying a lot for the pieces you need or want is not in anyone‟s best interest. No matter if you are just starting out in the railroading hobby or if you are a long time hobbyist, finding ways to save money on your pieces is a key ingredient in to staying a hobbyist. There are many places that you can get everything you need without paying top dollar and your railway will still look great.

Budget Before you can start looking for the pieces you need (or want) for your railway system you need to have a firm budget in mind. This is when you need to sit down and figure out what pieces you need, what your railroad will look like upon completion, and how realistic or detailed you want to make your system to begin with. All of this information will help you to come up with that all important budgets. Obviously, you also need to know how much money you have available to start your hobby. Once you have a firm budget in mind it‟s time to start researching the nit-picky stuff.

To determine how your budget is going to be spent you need to decide what kind of scale you have in mind. There are so many different scales to choose from and the prices vary between them. Determining the scale will affect many aspects of your railway as all things will have to meet the scale you‟ve chosen in order for it to look good. If you are trying to stay

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within a tight budget you may have to choose a scale that doesn‟t have all the popular features some other ones do. Budget shouldn‟t be the only thing that determines the scale of your train, you should also be aware of how much space will be available to accommodate your railroad. The amount of space should be your ultimate deciding factor.

Another consideration that you should make when you are trying to determine the budget expenses is the electronics. Of course, you want the train to move and you want it to move under its own power but the types of switches can make a difference in the price of your railroad. The simpler the switch the less you‟ll spend on it, the more complicated and the more it will cost. Another reason to consider the electronics is a simpler switch might not only be cheaper it might also be easier to fix or replace should a problem arise. But the electronics don‟t just make your train go, it will also control the signal lights, any lights that are in or on the train itself, and other features that you may include in your layout, like house lights or signal arms. How detailed you want to be on those extra types of electronics will also play into your expenses.

A great way to determine if your starting budget is a reasonable one is to simply talk to the experts. Head out to your local hobby shop and speak with one of the staff members. Be aware though, in a lot of those stores their goal is to sell you something. Most of them will be honest with you but there are some that are only interested in how much commission they can make. If you want to ensure that you are getting an unbiased opinion (or at least not biased by money) then check the internet. There are many chat rooms and clubs that can help you figure out exactly what you need to start your model railroad project. You‟ll find that there are many enthusiasts out there that are willing to be your “guide” to getting started.

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Trains Now that you have a budget and you know how you want things to look it‟s time to actually find the train pieces you need. There are lots of places to find trains at a discount. A nice starting place is a train show or expo. Lots of towns, especially larger ones, will have these gatherings at least once a year. Here you can find a large variety of trains, track, and other railroad paraphernalia. Lots of times you can find great deals on items here as many dealers are selling direct without a middle man. Often they run discounts and specials on their goods here because of the traffic that they receive just by being set up at the train show. You might have done your research and decided on a different scale than the one of your dreams because you found it too expensive during your research. While you‟re at the train show you could actually find the pieces you originally wanted for a lower price and can have the railroad of your dreams. These shows are worth a look if there is one in your area.

Even if you can‟t make it to a train show you can still find good deals on model trains. Head over to your nearest hobby store. Quiet often, especially around holidays, stores hold sales. You can find items at a nice discount during these sales. You might also find some cars or engines in your scale that are being discontinued. This would give you a unique car or engine in your collection that might end up being your crown jewel.

Many times these discontinued pieces are sold at deep discounts to make way for the new style generation, their loss is your gain.

If you‟ve looked at the stores and have decided they are too expensive you might need to just turn to the internet. By doing a quick search on the net you can find dozens of retailers that offer their stock at a discount compared to that in which you find in stores. Why? Mostly it has to do with the lower overhead. A lot of these online companies will sell directly to customers by mail order only. This is a great way to get

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engines, cars and track at a good price. Just be sure you know what scale size you want before you purchase from online vendors. The biggest downfall of shopping online is you can‟t actually hold the pieces in your hand prior to purchase. If you are new to the model railroading hobby you might verify the sizes in store first before buying online.

If you are experienced enough you might want to check out second hand and antique stores. Often, when a hobbyist passes away the family doesn‟t know what to do with his/her massive creation. Unless one of them is into trains often they disassemble it and sell the pieces off. Many end up in second hand or antique stores and this can be a good thing.

Some of the pieces that you find in these types of stores will need a little work to make the beautiful and running again but you can get them at an extremely deep discount. Occasionally you will find pieces at second hand stores that are in wonderful condition and you‟ll still pay a fraction of the price as you would purchasing them new. Finding these pieces this way might not be recommended for first time buyers because the sellers often wouldn‟t know what scale the train is. For those looking to add to their collection it‟s a great way to save money on train cars and engines.

Backgrounds and Scenery When it comes to saving money on your railroad the background and scenery might be the place to accomplish this. Spend a little of your budget on how to books. These insightful books can tell you how to make your own realistic scenery. It‟ll cost you a fraction of the price to make your own from scratch than it would to purchase ready-made pieces. If you don‟t have time to stop at the book store, check online. There are dozens of places to find tips on making your own scenery. As for background pictures, anything you can take with a camera and blow up, or at least print out can serve as a great

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backdrop for your railroad. Making your own scenes for your railway will give you a sense of pride and accomplishment. It guarantees you get exactly what you want. You don‟t even have to be a masterful artist, many of these books and instructions will give you the step-by-step procedure designed for those with less than expert experience.

If you are all thumbs or just simply don‟t have time to render every tree in your town and countryside then looking for pieces that are ready to stick on your bench will be your answer. You can still find good deals if you know where to look. Like with the train and track pieces you can find scenery on sale at your local hobby store. As with any other piece you can find sales and discontinued items that will allow you to save money. The benefit of going this route is you know that it will look good, a professional has made it. You also know that it will be the right size, shape and color for what you are trying to accomplish with your railway.

You will end up paying more for the completed product than you would if you made it yourself, that‟s a fact everyone will admit to.

Heading to the internet can net you with some great discounted pieces for your scenery. Many of these companies are the same people that sell the tracks and trains, if you purchase all your pieces from them you can be assured that you have the correct scale of scenery to go with your train. Often times you will get an additional discount if you spend a certain amount and that discount might cover shipping costs bringing the price down even lower. As with the trains you have to rely on the pictures and descriptions to ensure you are getting what you want but often you will find better deals than in the stores. The internet is also full of beautiful pictures that you can download to blow-up and print as your background. Often you won‟t have to pay for the picture you download if you are planning on using it for your own private uses.

The internet is also full of tips. Here you can find how to use everyday items as parts of your scenery with little to no work. A little paint, a little glue and you might have everything you need to make a grassy area, or pebbles to stick along the track. Your imagination is the limit when it comes to making your scenery for little cost.

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Electronics The electronics can be a little trickier.

You will need some electronic components to run you railway. For those that are handy with tools you might consider rigging the electrical circuits of your railway yourself. There are lots of books on the subject. You will still have to purchase things like a power pack and wiring but wiring it up yourself can save you money.

Instead of purchasing entire kits you can do the work for less than it would normally cost. That being said, if you are not comfortable working with electric components, it‟s best not to do it yourself.

For those who are uncomfortable working with the electric components or simply don‟t have the time Hobby stores are the place to head. You can speak to someone there that is very knowledgeable on the subject.

They can steer you to the cheapest most effective model of power pack they have and ensure you get the type you need for your engine. If you are doing more than just powering your engine, like say lighting your entire town, then they can help you find the pack or packs that are best for that as well.

If you know what you are looking for, even if you don‟t want to wire it from scratch yourself, then you might be able to find the pieces cheaper at the electronics store. An electronics store is sure to have a wide array of power packs and switches for you to use. Some of the packs will come ready to hook up, just like you would find at the hobby shop, so all you have to do is attach it using the simple instructions and you‟re off and running.

You can find discount power packs and electrical components on the internet as well. If you are unsure of what to purchase, you need to do the research before you purchase. A quick Google search will give you

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everything you need to know about the voltage you need. All you have to do is put in the type of train you‟re running (as in HO, O, Z etc.) and you should be able to find an answer to your question. It is suggested though; if you are running your train and a lot of accessories off of the same power pack get at least an 18V pack.

Ebay Guide To Bidding And Winning Probably the easiest way to get the trains you want off of the internet is on EBay. This popular auction site has tremendous amounts of trains in just about every scale imaginable. You will be able to obtain many of these trains without paying an arm and a leg as well. If you don‟t want to mess with the auctioning process several of them come with a “Buy Now” price that will allow you to pay a set price for the item, stopping all auction process.

You won‟t find just trains here either; you can find everything you need to build your own railway. Scenery, track, power supplies you can get it all here. Often these items are new or only gently used so you know that you are getting a good quality product from the sellers.

When you shop on EBay it‟s important to do your homework. Check out the sellers that you are considering purchasing your items from. You want to make sure they have good feedback so that you can be sure that you are getting the best for your money. This will also help to ensure that if you purchase one of their products you are only doing business with people who are guaranteed to send you your item in a timely manner.

Also it‟s best to keep business dealings on EBay. While it might seem more convenient to talk through an instant messenger or e-mail, should you have a problem EBay can‟t take those records into account while settling the dispute. Be sure that you pay the person in a secure manner such as PayPal. Also if you don‟t really want the item or are unsure don‟t

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bid, you could be keeping someone who really wants it from winning at a fair price or worse with merchandise you really don‟t want.

When it comes to bidding on EBay it can be a little intimidating, especially if you‟re new at it. Doing your homework before placing your first bid can make the difference in not just winning the bid, but not paying too much for the item you‟re bidding on.

If you‟ve never bid on an auction before you don‟t want to just rush in there and bid on the first item you like. It might be a good idea to find something you are sort of interested in but not so interested that you‟d be upset if someone else won it. Don‟t bid on it, save the bid to your favorites so that you can see how the bidding goes. You can watch the back and forth without risking any money on it. This should help you get a feel for how an auction will run.

Another good way to research the bidding process is to find one that is recently closed. Here you can review the back and forth bidding and see how the auction went without having to constantly come back to it.

Before you can make your first bid on EBay there is a term you need to understand. This term is called the reserve price. This is probably one of the most important terms you need to know prior to making a bid. The reserve price is a price that sellers can use to void the bid if their ideal price isn‟t met. This is an optional price the seller does not have to set it, and those that do not have a reserve price will usually have a NR on their item description somewhere. It‟s an abbreviation for no reserve, and not all of them let you know there is no reserve. The rub is a reserve price is secret, it‟s not revealed at the beginning of the auction. An opening bid does not mean there is a reserve price and the opening bid requirement is not the reserve price. If you have been following some auctions you might have noticed after a few bids the phrases “Reserve not met” or “Reserve met” have appeared at the top of the item listing. This is an indication that there is a reserve on the auction, but the amount is never shown.

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There are also a wide variety of abbreviations used to describe items on EBay. The list is extensive and can be found at the following link: http://pages.ebay.com/help/account/acronyms.html.

It probably would benefit you to make yourself at least somewhat familiar with the commonly used acronyms before you make your first bid.

After you‟ve watched a few auctions, or at least enough to be comfortable with the process it‟s time to try your hand at one yourself. You have poked around EBay and you‟ve found the train you‟d like to bid on. Now for the difficult part, you have to make a bid. You will notice on most bids there is an opening bid, or a minimum amount most sellers will accept. Since you‟ve got your eye on that train, you‟ve probably done your homework to determine how much the train is actually worth; the whole point is to get it at a bargain right? You‟ve read the description and have determined that the train is in good condition. You‟ve looked up the seller and read all the feedback and have found that the person is a reputable seller. You also know how much you can or are willing to spend on this item. It‟s important to have a budget in mind before you start bidding.

For the sake of example let‟s say the opening bid is $10. You know the going rate for the train is $100. It‟s best to start on the lower end, close to the opening bid. If there is a reserve and your maximum bid does not meet it you will see the “Reserve not met” notice once the bid is placed.

You might want to place another bid with a higher maximum or you can choose to wait and see what the next person does before trying to at least meet the reserve price. If your maximum bid is out bid you can bid again.

If your bid is the winner you will receive an e-mail from stating you won and instructions on payment and receipt of your new train.

Now that the basics of bidding on EBay have been explained there are some techniques people have suggested to ensure that you win the bid.

It‟s called sniping. It is not recommended for the beginner but after you‟ve gotten used to the bidding process it might help you ensure the

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big win. Sniping is when you put in a winning bid in the last few seconds of the auction. You usually have been following the auction for several days and have an idea of where the bidding is going. You need to log on a few minutes before the end of the bid to monitor the activity. You‟ll have to refresh often to ensure that you see the most recent highest bid. With a minute or less left on the bid is when you need to make your move.

Place a bid just higher than the highest bid. Doing this with only a few seconds left in the auction will get you your train. There are lots of softwares out there that can help you time your sniping just right if you are interested in going this route. Or you can simply open two browsers to the site and place them side by side on your screen. Keep updating one so you can have the most accurate and use the other to place your bid at the right moment.

Used Items If you are interested in second hand items you want to be sure to check for a few things. As with all online purchases, purchases on EBay are subject to a picture and description. You can‟t hold the item in your hand and inspect it to ensure it‟s as good of quality as you‟d like it to be.

A good rule of thumb is purchasing only items that have a good description and several pictures. Close-up type pictures are best, but honestly some dealers just don‟t think of it, it doesn‟t automatically mean they are trying to hide something. You do want to deal with a dealer that will take multiple pictures from multiple angles. This will give you a full picture of your possible purchase.

Be sure to study these photos with extreme care. If you need better photos don‟t hesitate to contact the seller to see if more photos can be provided. There are some things you need to look at prior to making the purchase and additional photos might be the only way to tell. It‟s very important that you look the photos over for rust. Also check the collector

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roller and assembly. You need to see how warn it is in order to tell how much it‟s been used. If the seller is claiming the engine is 50 or more years old and has a shiny new collector roller that just means it‟s been replaced. You should look to see if there are any obvious repairs and if they look to be in good condition.

Check the wiring and electronics if possible. What you don‟t want to see on the engine is cracked wires, sloppy connections such as poor soldering, and disconnected wires. This means that the engine wasn‟t cared for properly. Make sure that the headlight socket is also well connected. If you can get a look at them, check the brush motors to ensure they are in good shape. Yes eventually all wiring goes bad, what you don‟t want to pay for is an engine that supposedly works but hasn‟t been taken care of. You might find repairs to the wiring during your inspection but that‟s okay as long as the repairs are good repairs.

You will also want to check the wheels. If you are looking for an engine that hasn‟t been run the wheels are where to check. Wear on these are an indication of usage. Even if you don‟t care if the engine has been run a lot you still need to check for rust, chips, and cracks. You can make a determination on how the engine has been cared for if you see chips and cracks. Check the axels to ensure they are not bent as well.

A few other things to check for before purchasing a used train are: is the engine dirty or just discolored? Dirty engines doesn‟t necessary mean that it hasn‟t been taken care of but sometimes it‟s hard to tell dirt from discoloration in a photo. If you‟re in doubt contact the seller to verify.

You also need to know if the engine is a working engine or not. This is not a bad thing either. Many people buy non-working trains and fix them up themselves, it‟s part of the charm. That being said you don‟t want to do business with a seller that claims to have a working engine that actually doesn‟t work.

Also look for any burred or missing screws. Burred screws shows lack of care. Burred or missing screws generally mean someone that didn‟t really know what they were doing took the train apart. This is not a good thing.

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Summary It doesn‟t have to cost hundreds or thousands of dollars to start building your model railroad. By making your own scenery, shopping around and choosing the right type of train for your space you can save a lot of money. The great thing about model railroading is that you can always add to it. No matter if you purchase a full kit or the individual pieces, do your homework before you buy. If you buy online, check out the dealer before you purchase from them to ensure you are getting a good deal from a good dealer. If you purchase from a store make sure that you know their return policy should you get it home and realize it wasn‟t what you thought it was or it‟s broken. Taking the extra time can save you a lot of hassle in the end. Even if your budget to start is small you can still have a great railroad if you just spend the time to make it your own.

Discount Train Links Lionel Trains American Flyer Trains Bachmann Trains L.G.B. Trains HO Scale Buildings Brass Trains Marklin Trains Athearn Trains

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Resources Many people enjoy the challenge of model railroading. It is a hobby that can provide you with hours of entertainment and challenge your imagination. Probably one of the great things about model railroading is the amount of information that is available for you to get inspiration from.

This resources section is designed to help save you the frustration that can come from trying to do a general web search. The resources provided herein, are at this time great informational resources. 

Books - This list of books can give you some insight on model railroading that you might be having difficulty finding on your own.



Magazines – The following list of magazines can provide you with more insight such as designs, pieces, manufacturers, etc.

Sometimes this type of media is preferable to books, since magazines change more rapidly to keep up with the latest information.



DVDs - DVDs are a great way to get inspired about your own model railway.



Clubs – Sometimes you just need to belong to a group of likeminded individuals. This list can steer you to people who might be able to assist you in your model railroading experience.

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Books How To Build Model Railroad Benchwork This book will give you the information you need to build your own model railroad benchwork. It covers the simplest 4 x8 plan as well as the instruction you need to build even bigger benchwork. Click here for more information.

Basic Model Railroading: Getting Started in the Hobby This book can get you started in the hobby of model railroading. Here you will find the information you need to make your own railway, from getting the scale correct to maintaining your railway. Click here for more information.

How to Build Realistic Model Railroad Scenery This book will take you step by step in creating your own scenery. The water-soluble method used here will help you easily design, model, build, and finish your scenery. Click here for more information.

101 Projects for your Model Railroad This book gives you everything from bench framing to wiring your model railway. It also includes a project table that gives you an approximate time for each project, tools, materials and more. Click here for more information.

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Easy Model Railroad Wiring This easy how-to-guide will give you the instruction you need to wire your permanent railway layout. It doesn‟t matter what skill level you have, this guide can help you do it. Click here for more information.

Track Planning for Realistic Operation This book provides you with the step-by-step techniques that will save you time, money and frustration when building your model railway. Click here for more information.

Model Railroad Bridges & Trestles This book will teach you how to build a sturdy model bridge that is realistic. In here you will find construction plans, photographs, and scale drawings for those that want to do it from scratch. Click here for more information.

DCC Made Easy The authors of this book will give you the information you need to know about creating a digital command control. It‟s straight forward and concise instructions make it simple for even the most novice hobbyist.

Click here for more information.

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Realistic Model Railroad Operation If you want to ensure that you model railroad doesnâ€&#x;t just look like a toy then you need some assistance.

This book will teach you the basic principles of operating a model railway so that it looks like real thing. Click here for more information.

101 Track Plans for Model Railroaders If you are just getting started with your model railway you might not know how you want your track to look like at first. This book will give you 72 pages of track plans and ideas for a variety of model railway scales.

Click here for more information.

Building a Model Railroad Step-by-Step This book will guide you through everything you need to know about building your own model railroad.

From building the benchwork to the finishing detail of the railroad and scenery this book covers it all. Click here for more information.

Scenery for Model Railroads, Dioramas & Miniatures If you want your railway to look authentic then you need scenery that looks the part too. This book can help learn how to make the scenery and backdrop of your railway look as real as the engines puffing down the tracks. Click here for more information.

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Basic Model Railroad Track Plans: Small Starter Layouts You can Build When you are starting out you need something simple to get you going. This book provides you with 13 HO scale and 3 N scale layouts that are easy to build. Click here for more information.

Realistic Model Railroad Design This book will show you how to make creative choices in your railroad design that will help it to look completely real. From concept to construction this book gives you the information you need in a straightforward style. Click here for more information.

How to Build and Detail Model Railroad Scenes This book will give the information you need to model many of the pieces you will use along the tracks of your railway. From a simple firehouse to a more complicated Northeastern town, this book will help you ensure everything is authentic. Click here for more information.

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Magazines Model Railroad News This insightful magazine brings you the most up-todate information in model railroading. Each moth you will get information on new products, railroading news and more. Click here for more information.

Railroad Model Craftsman This magazine contains information on how-to build your track, new layouts and products. It is for the most novices of collectors to the most advanced and experienced. With itâ€&#x;s in depth reviews and information on scale this magazine has it all. Click here for more information

Model Railroader Need tips on your railroad project? Need them monthly? This magazine is home to tips, projects and finished photographs that will help make your railroad the best it can be. Click here for more information.

Classic Toy Trains This magazine will give you all the information you need to maintain your trains. For those who are interested in learning about which trains to collect this magazine has the answer with through articles and color photos. Click here for more information.

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NZ Model Railway Journal The quarterly railway journal of New Zealand comes packed with tips and techniques for you to enjoy. Each magazine comes with plans, history and information for traders and collectors alike. Click here for more information.

Model Rail Magazine This United Kingdom magazine is designed to give you a fresh approach to your model rail way. You can get the most from your hobby by giving you the most upto-date information on railroading. Click here for more information.

Model Railroading This magazine is made by modelers for modelers.

Here you can find all the information you need to keep up with your railroading hobby. Click here for more information.

Mainline Modeler This North American publication brings you the mainlines of the continent. Here you can see and design your model railway on the real things. With beautiful pictures and up-to-date details magazine makes sure you have what you need. Click here for more information.

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British Railway Modeling This British based magazine gives you the most current product reviews, locomotive profiles, rolling stock, railway liveries and layout focus. Each moth you can find something new to enjoy about railway modeling. Click here for more information.

Rail Model Journal For the most up-to-date information on freight cars, passenger cars and locomotives this magazine has it.

Click here for more information.

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DVDs HO DCC Installs Volume 1: Easy to Moderate If you are interested in installing a digital demand control (DCC) on your model railway then this DVD might come in handy. It shows you a step-by-step installation of simple to moderately hard installation so that you can ensure you‟re doing it right. Click here for more information.

Tracks Ahead: Great Model Train Layouts For those who want to get stared in model railroading and don‟t know where to begin this DVD is a good place to start. With a variety of layout examples to inspire you, you can make your own railway layout a reality. Click here for more information.

Great Lionel Layouts: Parts 1 & 2 For layout ideas this DVD can show you some realistic layouts that might inspire you for your own. This DVD shows you different scale track and how to make the different layouts work. They even include some multigauge, multi-level layouts that will be sure to impress and inspire. Click here for more information.

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Clubs USA www.railusa.com/links/Model_Railroad_Clubs www.cwrr.com/nmra/Cluba-AE.html www.all-railroads.com/interchg/rrclubs.htm

CANADA www.railserve.com/Models/Clubs/North_America/central www.trains.com/trc/community/rrgroups/groups.asp?geo=5&c=58&s=-1 www.cwrr.com/nmra/Clubb-Can.html

UK www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/other/clubs.shtml www.cwrr.com/nmra/Clubb-UK.html

Worldwide www.modelrailroaddata.com/links/Model_Railroad_Clubs/International/ www.railserve.com/Models/Clubs/World/ www.cwrr.com/nmra/Clubb-World.html

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Glossary A Abutment: The foundation that anchors and supports lateral pressure.

Example of an abutment would be the weight-bearing piers of a bridge that anchors the bridge to solid ground.

AC (Alternating Current): An electric current that cycles (alternates) from positive to negative a given number of times per second. In the US 110V current cycles approximately 60 times a second. Model train transformers typically have AC inputs and outputs to operate the trains.

Access area: This is the opening in the center of a train layout allowing an individual to reach sections untouchable from the sides.

Alley: A clear area of track, generally found in a yard Ampere: A unit of measure used to determine a circuitâ€&#x;s electrical flow, the higher the amperage (or Amps) the greater the flow of electricity through the circuit. It technically is the amount of current produced by the force of one volt acting through one ohm of resistance.

Apron: A hinged cover or overlapping deck between the locomotive and the tender Arbor: Wheel Axel Arc: The spark created by electrical current passing across a gap, also known as a curve.

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Arch: The shallow, semicircle configuration located below the tubes in the firebox that is used to lessen the amount of smoke and protect the flue tubes while making the locomotive more fuel efficient.

Articulated: A steam locomotive in which the engine moves separately from the frame itself. This is useful on railroads with tight or standard curves.

Ash Cat: A locomotive fireman Ash Pan: The device that is located under a steam engineâ€&#x;s firebox in which ashes are held. This pan is emptied into the ash pit, normally located at the service yard.

Ash Pit: Located below the track level in a locomotive service area, the pit is used as a waste receptacle for steam locomotiveâ€&#x;s residual coal ash and cinders from the fire box.

Automatic Coupler: train couplers that couple/uncouple automatically through the use of ramps and magnets allowing the operation of coupling cars remotely instead of manually.

Automatic Train Control (ATC): Any system that is designed to provide the engineer with assistance against misinterpretation of signals or mishandling of the train. An ATC system can be a fully automatic control system or as simple as a cab warning system.

B Backdrop: Scenery located behind the layout, it is generally a painted or printed background but could be a large photograph as well.

Bad Order: A defective car that has been tagged by a railroad inspector

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Bad Order Track: A side track for cars that need to be repaired Baggage Car: The car that holds the luggage, an American term Ballast: The rocks used in the area between the rails and the ties. Its purpose is to keep the tracks aligned as well as allow for adequate drainage.

Balloon Stick: The smokestack of older wood burning locomotive with a diamond shaped housing to prevent sparks from escaping.

Balloon Track: Term used for a Reverse Loop, sometimes simply referred to as a Balloon.

Balsa: A lightweight wood that can be used in model railways.

Banking: Attaching at least one locomotive to the rear of the train to assist generally on inclines.

Bascule Bridge: A counter-balanced lift bridge Basswood: a strong, smooth light weight wood used in model railway construction.

Bay Platform: A short terminal platform that lets into a longer on, used for local trains or terminating branch lines.

Belt line: A railway that connects two or more railways, generally circles the city or town Benchwork: The foundation of the model railway layout.

Bobber: A four-wheeled caboose

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Boom Car: The car on which the crane boom rests on during travel Box Cab: A locomotive with a cab shaped like a square or box, can be either electric or diesel.

Boxcar: A freight car that is rectangular in shape and is fully enclosed.

Brakeman: Assists the conductor in anyway needed, usually found on as part of the crew on freight or passenger trains

C Cab: The front portion of the engine where the engineer and controls are located.

Caboose: The car normally found at the end of the train that houses the conductor‟s office and living quarters. This is quickly being replaced with End of Train Devices.

Camelback: A steam engine with the cab located on top of the boiler.

Chassis: The framework or the cars Cant: Amount by which one rail of a curved track is raised above the other. When the inner rail is higher than the outer rail the track is considered „Negative‟, when the outer rail is higher than the inner rail the track is considered „positive‟ Car: An American term for carriage.

Car Barn: Storage area or house for trolley and interurban cars.

Car Knocker: An inspector who tap the car wheels to test for soundness.

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Catenary: Supporting cable for the conductor wire of an overhead electrification system.

Chassis: Framework or underbody of a locomotive, or cars. Cinder Pit – As ash pit.

Circuit: The path of an electrical current. Circuit Breaker – A switch or fuse that automatically opens the circuit in the event of a Consist: The listing and order in which multiple engines or train cars are lined up.

Cowcatcher: The pointed device on the front of the engine that removes cows, deer and other large animals from the track.

Cribbing: The wood, steel or concrete that is a retaining wall for loose rocks/dirt along the track.

Crossing: An intersection between two tracks that are on the same level Crossing Grade: An intersection between track and highway that is on the same level

D Deadhead: A locomotive that is travelling without cars also used to describe an empty car or a passenger riding on a pass Derail: When car or cars leave the rail. This term is also used to describe a side line that is used to prevent cars from going on to the main line.

Diagram: a schematic of everything that is controlled by the signal box

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Dog Bone: The shape of a railway that consist of two reversing loops connected together. It is also known as a Dumb Bell Double-header: Two engines are located at the head of the train Driving Wheels: The wheels of steam engine that are connected by rods, on electric or diesel engines these are the large motorized wheels.

Dynamic Braking: An additional braking system that utilizes locomotive traction motors as a generator.

E Embankment: A rise in the ground level that is usually in the form of a ridge of earth or rock Engine: The Car on the train that contains the cylinders and drivers, this car pulls the train and is often referred to as the Locomotive Engineer: The operator of the engine or locomotive. He is in charge of the train while it is in motion.

Engine Yard: The place where engines are stored when not in use and where service is performed on them.

Epoxy: An adhesive that consists of a hardener and resin, usually sued for securing surfaces such as glass, some plastics, and metal.

Extruded foam: Used for sub-roadbeds on top of plywood as a base for the model railroad layout. It's available from building supply stores.

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F Fiddle Yard: Siding in which trains are stored or terminated. This is a modeling term for a staging area where the modeler adds/removes items by hand.

Firebox: The area on a steam engine boiler where the fire is burned.

Flash: Thin material oozing from the mold during the molding process and is still attached to the finished piece.

Flextrack: A three-foot length of flexible track with the ability to be used either a straight track or on curves to the desired radius. Can be cut to different length with a set of rail cutters.

Free-lance: A model that is built from scratch. It does not follow a prototype railway.

Freightyard: Sections of track on a layout connected by turn outs or by a ladder that is used for the purpose of switching freight cars or forming trains prior to being sent to a different area of the layout. The cars are usually line up so they can be dropped off in the order of the locations along a designated, scheduled route.

G Gap: The space that is between the rails that is used to insulate one rail from another, usually used to divide the layout for multiple trains.

Gauge: describes the distance between the two rails of a track. Usually this distance is 4 foot 8 ½ inches in the prototype -- designated as

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"standard gauge" -- in the prototype (life-size rails). Narrow gauge refers to rails that are closer together than this, usually 3 ½ foot or 3 foot in the prototype.

Gondola: Flat open car used to haul items like scrap, lumber or steel.

Grade: A gradient slope Grade Crossing: An area where a street or highway crosses the railway line.

Gravity: An area where cars are shunted by gravity and without the aid of an engine Gravity Yard: The yard in which gravity shunting can take place. Also known as a Hump Yard.

H Handlaid track: Track a model railroader has created and laid himself from raw materials.

Helix: a circular section of track resembling a corkscrew that is used to move on train from one level of a track to either a higher or lower on.

This helix, very often, hidden from view. Trains may enter through a tunnel on the lower level and exit from another tunnel or from behind some trees or other obstruction on the upper level.

Homasote: the brand name of a pressed paperboard commonly used as a sub-roadbed. Available from most building supply stores.

Home Signal: A signal that protects the immediate block

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Hot-box: A bearing that has overheated on a freight car. This causes a breakdown on the lubrication between the bearing and the journal

I In the Hole: A side track for one train to wait on while another train passes Inspection Car: A car that is self propelled and is used to inspect the track Interlocking: A system of electro/mechanical controls that allows one train to move from one track to another through a series of junctions Island Platform: A platform that has track on both sides of it.

K Key: Wed of wood or spring steel inserted between the rail and chair to hold the rail in position.

Kingpin: A plastic pin that attaches the truck of the car to the bolster of the car. The pin that connects the wheel set to the bolster at the pivot point is made of steel.

Kitbashining: A term that denotes the use of one or more kits to build a third completely different structure. A practice that is very often done when specific models for buildings are not available.

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Ladder: Term for a marshalling yard or layout where the points on the switches follow each other giving leads off a straight line to one side, also a term giving to the rack rail of mountain railway.

Layout Design elements (LDEs): Small portions of a larger railroad that are operationally as well as visually similar to the prototype used in track planning for the models.

L-girder: one method of creating a brace for benchwork.

Load Gauge: Limit of the dimensions of height and width of loades to ensure adequate clearance.

Load Limit: Limit imposed on the weight of a load based on the size and weight of the rail, condition of the lines and bridges and other factors such as weather.

M Main Line: The through track that is used by trains as restricted by the rules of travel Marshalling Yard: Area where cars are sorted and assembled into trains Muzzle Loader: A steam locomotive that is hand-fire

N Narrow Gauge: A railway track that is less than standard gauge

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Normal: The usual position of points or signals before they are initiated by a signalman to allow the train to move Nose: The front of the locomotive

O On the ground: Term used to describe a derailment Operation: Term which refers to the running of trains on a layout in a purposeful manner.

Overhead: Contact wire and Catenary of an over head electrical system

P Panorama: A background picture that gives you a wide view in all directions Power Supply: For model railways the unit changes the standard 110V into a low voltage current that will safely run the trains and all their accessories.

Power Unit: The actual device that converts the higher voltage down to the lower voltages needed for use by the model trains.

Prototype: The full-size, real-life piece of equipment after which a scale model is created.

Pull the pin: Operate the uncoupling lever.

Pullman: A sleeping car or parlor car operated by the Pullman Co. Came to be a generic term for any sleeping car.

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Pulse with modulation (PWM): Used to control the speed of a DC motor through the application of pulses of a constant voltage of varying width.

The wider the pulses applied, the more rapidly the motor turns. The method of motor control used by the DCC decoders.

Puzzle switch: Slang term which refers to the special track components.

This includes the single- or double-slip switches used in extremely congested areas.

R Radius: the measurement of a curve from its center point to the center line of a curved track.

Rail: A rolled steel beam with a wide base, fastened to cross ties which guide the trains along the right of way as well as carry the weight of the train itself.

Rail code: The height of a model rail. It's measured in thousandths of an inch. The code 100 measure 0.100-inch tall, code 83 is 0.83-inch tall.

Rail Diesel Car (RDC): A self-propelled passenger car (built by the Budd Co.) Rail joiner: Used to join model rails end to end, it's a formed sheet-metal mechanical connector.

Rail nipper: A pair of flush-cutting pliers that make clean, square cuts in soft metal rail.

Railfan: A person who enjoys anything connected with the railroad. He (or she) loves to read about railroads, photograph them, watch them and ride them.

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Railhead: The wider, top portion of the rail on which the wheels rest and ride on.

Rectifier: Found inside a decoder for converting electrical AC current into DC current.

Red board: A train order signal meaning orders to be delivered.

Reefer: A refrigerated railroad car. It looks similar to a boxcar, but has ice or is equipped with mechanical cooling equipment.

Relay: Commonly used to control polarity, power and signal circuits, its' an electromagnetic switching device.

Rerailer: A section of the railroad track dedicated to placing cars and locomotives back on the rails.

Resistor: Restricts the flow of electrical current. Used to lower voltage or limit its current.

Return loop: The model railroaders' term for a section of track which reverses the direction of the train. The prototype term for this is "balloon track."

Reverse or "S" curve: Opposing curves which are connected end to end.

Right-of-way: The model railroaders' term for track, roadbed and subroadbed. Its prototype counterpart refers to track, roadbed and property along which the real-life railroad runs.

Rip (repair-in-place) track: The area of a yard where minor repairs to cars take place.

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Riser: The vertical section of benchwork which supports a track board or a sub-roadbed.

Roadbed: When referring to prototypes, the foundation of earth on which the track is built. In model railroaders' terms, a strip of wood or other material that simulates the ballast profile of a real railroad.

Road switcher: Also called a hood unit, this is a general-purpose diesel used for yard switching as well as road duties.

Rolling stock: In railroaders' terms, a collection of non-powered railroad cars, generally referring to both passenger and freight cars.

Roundhouse: A circular engine house, usually surrounding a turntable.

RTR: Ready to Run, in other words a model train that doesnâ€&#x;t need to be assembled to run on the rails.

Ruling grade: This is the maximum grade which controls train size on a particular route.

Runaround: A switching maneuver. The locomotive uncouples from its cars, pulls ahead, backs past the train on an adjacent track, then moves forward to couple onto the rear of the train. Runaround also refers to the section of track where this maneuver actually occurs.

Running board: The walkway along the roof or along the sides of tank cars and steam locomotives.

Running Gear: Parts of a railroad car such as wheels, springs, frames, axles, and axleboxes, any piece of the car that is involved in its movement.

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S Saw by: A maneuver in which two trains meet at a siding too short to actually holder either one of them. (Related term: double-saw by. This is the term used when neither train fits) Scale: The ratio between the measurement of a model railroad compared to that of the prototype. HO scale, for example, has a ratio of 1:87, or 1/87 the size of the prototype.

Scenic Break: a Deliberate barrier that disguises two sections of a lay out that would clash or be widely separated.

Schedule: That part of the timetable which includes the class, direction, number as well as the timings of the trains.

Scissors crossover: Two crossovers with a third in the middle. This allows the train to pass from one parallel track the other in either direction.

Scratch building: Creating a mode from raw materials and parts without the use of a kit. From the phrase: to build from scratch.

SD: The designation General Motors assigned to its six-axle "special duty" diesel locomotives.

Sectional track: Short, rigid pieces of fixed length or curve track which are easily joined together.

Shay: A kind of geared, steam locomotive used in logging, mining as well as industrial railroading. Its three cylinders are mounted vertically on the

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

right side of the boiler, driving the crankshaft which is geared to all the axles.

Short line: This term refers to a small railroad, generally Class II. Siding: A side track that has a turnout at either end. Passing sidings are long enough to allow trains to meet each other.

Single-slip switch: A condensed track component combining the functions of two turnouts in a relative short distance. It only allows three possible routings, compared with the four a double-slip switch allows.

Slab: Track that is laid on a concrete base instead of the conventional ballasts.

Slug: An electrical switched used in model railroading.

SPDT: Single Pole Double Through, a popular type of electrical switch used in model railways.

Speed table: Table of parameters with regard to DCC, which delineates the voltage of the motor to a speed as well as direction. Individual speed tables can be programmed for each individual locomotive. This allows the locomotives made by different manufacturers to work together in a consist.

Spike: This term applies to a prototype railroad. It is a forged steel fastener with an offset head, which is driven into the ties to secure the rails.

Spiral curve or easement: A curve with a radius that is gradually increasing which makes the transition between a tangent or straight track and a fixed-radius curve.

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Spot a car: The act of placing a railcar at a designated position, like an industry or on a station track.

Spring switch: A turnout which is held in a single position by a spring in such a way that facing point traffic always takes the same route.

However, trailing point traffic can run through the turnout from either track.

Spur or spur track: This is a track with no outlet, a track with a turnout at only one end.

Staging yard: Several lengths of track on a layout reserved for either storing or placing trains together before an operating session very often hidden from view -- but not always.

Standard gauge: In the United States and the rest of North America, standard gauge between the rails is 4 foot 8 ½ inches.

Stub switch: A pointless turnout which changes its route through the bending of the approach or by the "fly" rails sideways.

Styrene: This term is short for polystyrene. It's a versatile plastic which is used in modeling. It can be purchased in sheets, blocks or in rods of many thicknesses and sizes.

Sub-roadbed: In model railroading the bottom layer of track, usually made of plywood.

Superelevation: The act of raising the outside section of a curved track to assist the trains in negotiating the curves at higher speeds.

SW: The term General Motors gave to its diesel switchers.

Switch: In a turnout, the assembly of moving points that selects one route over the other.

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Switchback: The section of track layout that needs a change in direction.

Switch lock: An interlocking device or a padlock that secures a switch to it cannot be moved.

Switch machine: Found at a turnout, this is a single- or a double-coil electromagnetic mechanism that directs trains to a specific track. Also, a remote-control device which moves the switch point to a specific route through a turnout.

Switch stand: A manual device which allows a turnout to be lined -- or changed - among different routes.

Synchronous: Electric Motor with speeds that vary in direct proportion to the frequency of the supply

T Talgo: The model railroaders' term for truck-mounted couplers. When used in reference to prototype equipment, it's the type of lightweight passenger train Amtrak uses in the Northwest.

Tangent: Refers to a straight track.

Tank engine: A type of steam locomotive which carries its fuel and water supply in thanks alongside the boiler or perched on a frame extension at the rear instead of in a tender.

Tender: The car, attached to a steam locomotive, which holds the extra fuel and water for the locomotive.

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Third rail: Literally a third rail mounted along the running rails. It supplies current for electric locomotives or traction cars.

Three-way: A point that makes connection to three tracks Throttle: In the terminology of model railroaders, a speed controller.

Tie plate: Found between the rail base and the tie tip, it's a forged steel plate that helps to spread the weight of the load.

Tie: The structural element normally found at right angles to the center line of the track. Its purpose is to support and hold the rails in their proper gauge. Most ties on prototypes are still hardwood. However, some are made of pre-stressed concrete. On model railroads, a tie may be made of wood or plastic.

Timber: The term refers to any heavy beam of wood used in railroad construction.

Timetable: The authority for the movement of trains. It's subject to the railroads operating rules.

Tin Plate: A toy train that does not conform to scale Toggle switch: This is an electric switch with a level control and snap action.

Tower: The signal box, or control center Track: A set of two parallel rails fastened to wooden or concrete ties for the prototype trains. In model trains the track could be fastened to either wooden or plastic ties.

Trackboard: Also called sub-roadbed, it's the horizontal wood support beneath the model roadbed and track.

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Traction: Public utility transportation. This term has been extended to encompass all electrically operated trains.

Trailing point: A turnout with all points facing away from the direction of travel.

Train: One locomotive -- or more -- with or without railcars operating on rails or track pulling products or being used as other transportation.

Transformer: The device which changes high-voltage 110-volt AC house current into low-voltage AC current in order to power the DCC system.

Truck: The wheel axle frame assembly under the locomotive and its cars.

The framework which supports the railroad wheels.

Turnout: A section of track with rails that move. Its purpose is to move a train from one track to the next. Sometimes referred to as "switch."

Turntable: A revolving bridge used to turn the locomotive in an engine terminal.

U Uncoupling lever: The device by which the locking pin of a coupler is raised, allowing the knuckle to open for uncoupling. Also called a cut lever.

Unit: A diesel locomotive

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Unit train: A freight train carrying only one commodity to one destination. It returns empty.

Up-line: The line trains normally travel over when heading towards the headquarters of the railway company Up Train: A train that travels up line USRA: United States Railway Association

V Valve Gear: The gear that controls the movement of the steam distribution valve Van: the covered car used to carry luggage Varnish: Term used for a passenger train. Passenger cars at one time were made from wood and given numerous coats of varnish.

Vestibule: Enclosed area at the end of a passenger car where the side doors are located.

Volt: Term refers to a unit of electrical pressure. Commonly, it takes up to 9 volts to move a "Z" scale model train, up to 14 for the "N" scale models and up to 20 for the larger scale models.

W Washout: track that is washed away from water action

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Walkaround cab: A handheld cab or throttle connected by a cable to plug. This plug, in turn, is connected to the cab bus at different points in the layout.

Walkaround control: The system which enables model railroader operators to walk along with their models.

Walkaround railroad: A model railroad layout in which you can walk around while operating without the need to walk under any section of the benchwork.

Water column: Usually located adjacent to the track, a standpipe connected to a water supply for the purpose of filling steam locomotive tenders.

Way Car: A freight car that carries local goods.

Weathering: The process by which model railroaders make new models look old and worn, or "weathered."

Welded Rail: Also called continuous rail, the rail sections which have been welded to prevent track joints.

Wheelset: A set of wheels on a railroad car connected by an axle.

Wheel stop: Wedge-shaped piece of equipment which prevents the railroad car from rolling off the end of a track.

Wireless cab: A cab, handheld, with no cable connection to the layout.

The device uses infrared or radio waves to transmit information.

Wireless cab base: The base station for one or more wireless cabs. This is connected to the command station by a cab bus.

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Wing Rail: running rail that forms the obtuse angle of a diamond crossing, also a rail running from the switch heel towards the nose Wye: A turnout in which the two legs curve away equally to form a "Y".

Also refers to a triangular track configuration which a locomotive or a train from a branch is joined to a main line in order to go in both directions.

Y Yard: Tracks used solely for the purpose of sorting and storing cars.

Yard engine: Also called yard goat, a locomotive used only for switching railroad cars on storage tracks.

Yardmaster: The railway employee in charge of the yard “Y� Switch: A switch that turns off at both sides but not straight ahead

Z Zamac: the zinc-aluminum alloy that is used to make most die-cast model trains

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

Manufacturers List USA Manufacturers Name Accurail Aristocraft

Scales HO G

Website

American Models Athearn Atlas Model Railroad Co. Bachmann Cedarhill Designs Custom Train Accessories Design Preservation Models Evergreen Scale Models Fine Scale Miniatures Finished Models Gold Medal Models

S HO HO

www.americanmodels.com

All O All

www.bachmannstrains.com www.TheTrainGuys.com

(215)533-1600 (843)448-9133 (877)719-2032

HO,N, O

www.dpmkits.com

(573)346-1234

Not Specific HO

www.evergreescalemodels.com

(425)402-4918

www.horailroad.com/fsm

(978)531-9418

N, HO, S, O HO, N

www.finishedmodels.com

(603)964-4995

Hay Brothers Imex Model Company Kato USA

HO,N, Z HO, N O

nscaleloads.com www.imex-model.com

(480)600-6335 (325)754-8522

N

www.katousa.com

(847)781-9500

K-Lite Trains LGB of America Lionel Life-like Marklin Inc.

O Large O N, HO All

kline.lionel.com

(586)949-4100

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www.accurail.com www.aristocraft.com www.athearn.com www.atalsrr.com

www.cedarhillsdesigns.com

Phone Number (630)365-6499 (973)351-9800 (248)437-6800 (310)763-7140 (908)687-0880

goldmm.com

www.lgboa.com www.lionel.com

(586)949-4100

www.lifelikeproducts.com www.marklin.com

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

Micro-Trains Line Model Power MTH Rail King Norhteastern Scale Model NuComp Miniatures Oak Tree Systems Roco S-Helper Service

N, Z N, HO O Not Specific HO, N All HO S

www.micro-trains.com

WM. K. Walthers

HO

www.modelpower.com

(541)535-1755 (800)628-2803

www.mthtrains.com www.nesm.com

(530)896-0801

www.nucompinc.com

www.showcaseline.com

(800)710-9034 (512)863-0020 (630)365-6340 (732)441-0555

www.walthers.com

(800)487-2467

www.oaktreesystems.com www.roco.com

UK Manufactures Name

Scales

Website

Phone Number

A&H Models

N, HO, OO

www.aandh-models.co.uk

Balkan Model

Not Specific

www.balkanmodels.co.uk

+44 01280 701410 +44 1342 824374

Ballards

N, OO

www.ballardshop.com

Bluebell Railway Plc

OO, N

www.blubell-shop.co.uk

Castle Trains

N, HO, OO

www.castletrains.com

Classic

N, OO, HO, O Nn3

www.classicloco.co.uk

T, N, HO OO

www.crafty-hobbies.co.uk

Dragon-gscale

G,1

www.dragon-gsclae.co.uk

Duncan Model Trains EA Models

Not Specific

www.duncansmodeltrains.com

Not Specific

www.eamodels.co.uk

Country Rolling Stock Crafty Hobbies

125

www.ntasticshop.co.uk

+44 01892 531803 +44 01825 720803 +44 01926 497905 +44 01472 291934 +44 07986 124716 +44 1229 820759 +44 01792 886900 +44 01225 783280 +44 01244

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

311442 EDM Models

HO, O

www.ngtrains.com

Flair Rail

www.flair-rail.co.uk

Graham Farish

N, OO, HO, T N

Hornby

OO

www.hornby.co.uk

KD Models Limited

Not Specific

www.kdmodels.co.uk

KRW Models

Not Specific

www.krwmodels.co.uk

Loyns Models

Not Specific

www.jlentersprisesuk.co.uk

Merican Models

HO, O, OO

www.modelralways.tv

Modelyard

OO

www.modelyard.co.uk

New Modellers Shop

OO

www.newmodellershop.co.uk

North Wales Models

OO

www.north-walesmodels.co.uk

Ontracks Ltd

Z,TT,N,OO

www.ontracks.co.uk

Osborns Models

Z, N, OO

www.osbornsmodels.com

Ralwayscenics

www.railwayscenics.com

Scale Link Ltd

HO,OO, TT, N N, HO, OO

Shady Lane

N, OO

www.shadeylanemodels.co.uk

T & R Models Ltd

N, O

www.trmodels.com

Team Track Trading

N, HO, O, G

www.teamtracktrading.co.uk

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www.grafar.co.uk

www.scalelin.co.uk

+44 01904 331973 +44 01621 789198 +44 01455 841756 +44 01843 233525 +44 01213083021 +44 01707 642282 +44 07734391628 +44 0 1562 884800 +44 0113 2747182 +44 01733 704502 +44 01492 622298 +44 01981 241268 +4401237042345 3 +44 07865395968 +44 01747 8118417 +44 07875 108230 +44 01933 273388 +44 07544 765937

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

Wicor Models

OO

www.wicor-models.co.uk

+44 01243 837941

Canadian Manufacturers Name

Scales

Website

Phone Number

Athabasca Scale Model

HO, N

www.athabascashops.com

(877)247-7719

Briggs Models

www.briggsmodels.com

(250)555-5555

G Scale Rail

Not Specific G

www.gscalerail.com

(519)672-8029

Resin Trains

HO, S, Z

resintrains.com

(530)431-2931

Trains et tram Columbine

G

www.trainsdejardin.com

(514)766-9665

Australian Manufacturers Name

Scales

Website

Phone Number

AR Kits

HO

www.arkits.com

(07)4667 1351

Bergâ€&#x;s Hobbies

Not Specific

www.bergshobbies.com

(02)9635 8618

Casula Hobbies

HO, N

www.casulahobbis.com.au

(61) 29602 8640

Gauge One Gallery

Gauge 1

www.gaugeonegallery.com

(61) 29555 9537

Handmade Accessories

N, HO, O

www.handmadeacc.com

(03)63266613

New Zealand Manufacturers Name

Scales

Website

Phone Number

South Dock Models

S

http://southdockmodels.com

(64)(3)4544957

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

European Manufacturers Name

Scales

Website

Phone Number

Hag Trains

HO

www.hag.ch

071 868 90 70

Lenz Elektronik GmbH Marklin, Inc

Not Specific HO, Z

www.lenz.com

+49 6403900133

www.marklin.de

Mehano Models

HO

www.mehano.si

+49 (0) 7161/6080 +386-5-66-080

Micro-Feinmechanik

HO

www.microfeinmechanick.de

0049-8784-742

Noch Gmbh and Co

HO, N, Z, G

www.noch.com

Norbrass

HO

www.norbrass.com

+49-(0)7522-97800 +351 253 218374

Roco Modellspielwarn Gmbh Wenz-Modellbau

HO, N, O

www.roco.co.at

(0662)620961

O

www.wenz-modellbau.de

+49 7133 205935

Zhicheng Industrial Ltd

O, OO, HO

www.zc-indusrial.com

0085281997916

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The Essential Guide to Model Trains

Photo Credits Images used under creative commons from these Flickr users (as of March 25th, 2010): (click on the names to go to the users profiles)

Elsie esq. fairlightworks Orin Zebest Eddau

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