CALIFORNIA ROAD TRIPS
We explore the Golden State’s iconic highways
Our Total Guide to Lesser-Known California
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Wellness and wine in Laguna, Temecula and Palm Springs
GOLD COUNTRY
Mining the Golden State’s true treasures on Highway 49
THE NORTH COAST
Discover California’s Indigenous heritage
30 MUST-VISIT NEIGHBOURHOODS In San Francisco, Los Angeles and San Diego
Northern California, Naturally Inspiring
From towering redwood forests to sun-kissed vineyards, experience Northern California’s wild beauty and laid-back charm on our Best of Northern California holiday. Wander through San Francisco’s iconic streets, savour world-class wines in Sonoma and immerse yourself in breathtaking National Parks where wildlife roams free.
Let our Travel Experts craft your perfect adventure – unique, authentic and always inspiring.
Welcome!
California is intrinsically tied to my own memories of America: my grandfather lived in Los Angeles and so family albums are filled with photos of my siblings and swimming in his hillside pool, sat in diners and meeting Donald Duck. When my own daughter was born, this was the first place we holidayed– and the Pacific was the first ocean she dipped her toes in. Even without a family connection, California is for many of us the entry point to the US – not least because it is so familiar and alluring from countless movies and TV shows.
I know wasn't alone in watching with horror and deep sadness as fires swept through LA in January, but in light of that it gives me even greater joy to be introducing our third issue, dedicated to California. LA is still open to visitors, and the state remains its captivating, ready-for-adventure self.
Is there any better way to experience the Golden State than by car? I'm not sure there is – and to prove that point, in this issue we really hit the road. From the superlative coastal views of Highway 1 and the redwoods and laid-back beach towns of the North Coast to seeking out Gold Rush history amid towering scenery, we've got a road trip that covers every kind of landscape on offer.
This is, too, a land of both wellness and wine, both of which we explore in our feature about Southern California – the perfect place to kick back and relax. Wine, too, is the focus of the beautiful Central Valley while it's well worth making time for nearby Sacramento's food scene to tickle your tastebuds. Another underrated city is laid-back San Luis Obispo, which is perfect for a few days of leisurely wandering.
Few people head to California without stopping in at least one of its gateway cities – Los Angeles, San Francisco and San Diego – and our guide highlights the best neighbourhoods in each to explore. Finally, whether you're a seasoned visitor or a first-timer, our total guide to lesser-known California will help you really get under the skin of this vibrant, unparalleled state.
Emma Gibbs Editor-in-Chief
Quirky, feisty and a little bit bonkers, it’s hard not to love California’s notable neighbourhoods.
Many draw artists in one form or another, from musicians and master chefs to muralists transforming the streets with art.
Nothing beats a coastal road trip –aside from stopping to eat seafood. Oysters have become the zhuzhed-up dish du jour, and the slurp-able appeal of Ventura's Jolly Oyster is enough to make you set up camp.
Immortalised on screen, everybody thinks they know California. Beyond the Hollywood Hills and over the Golden Gate Bridge, however, there are surprises in store for even the most dedicated of film fanatics.
One highlight of my trip was watching the plein air painters in Laguna Beach, their brushes moving with the shifting light. It felt almost meditative, like stepping into a living masterpiece where art and nature blur.
Highway 101’s dance into California’s northern coast is one won’t soon forget. Skinny palms are replaced by soaring redwoods and every beach town seems still, save for the waves breaking on the shore.
Nowhere beats California for epic landscapes, Gold Rush towns and some of the USA's most spectacular National Parks. For me, Yosemite reigns with its granite peaks, thundering waterfalls and giant sequoias.
CLAIRE DODD Neighbourhoods SARAH RODRIGUES Highway 1
LAUREN JARVIS Gold Country
JAMES MARCH The North Coast
MAGGIE DOWNS Wine Country JAMES DRAVEN Lesser-known Cali
NEWS
The latest events, openings, and anniversaries in the Golden State
We reveal our favourite places to eat, stay and explore – that you’ve probably never heard of before. NEIGHBOURHOODS
Follow in the footsteps of California’s gold-rush pioneers. THE NORTH COAST
Take a road trip into Northern California’s Indigenous heritage.
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Escape into wellness and wine country in Laguna, Temecula and Palm Springs.
30 must-visit districts in Los Angeles, San Francisco and San Diego.
HIGHWAY I
Hidden
SHASTA CASCADE
Photo essay: glimpse a wild and untamed corner of northeastern California.
CENTRAL VALLEY
Discover some of America’s best food and wine experiences.
LAKE TAHOE
An outdoor nirvana that offers a wealth of spectacular activities.
SAN LUIS OBISPO
The down-low on one of California’s great, authentic coastal towns.
SACRAMENTO
Eat your way around California’s farm-to-fork capital.
For general enquiries, partnerships or sales, email us at info@jrnymagazine.com
Los Angeles remains 98% intact. Its iconic attractions, including Santa Monica Pier and Universal Studios Hollywood, are open and ready for visitors
LA is ready to welcome you
Although up to 200,000 residents were affected, only 2% of Los Angeles was directly impacted by January’s wildfires. LA’s landmarks, attractions, restaurants and hotels remain safe and open to the public. With over 540,000 Angelenos working in tourism and more than 1,000 businesses relying on the travel industry, visitors to LA have never been more welcome.
Counterculture Museum opens in San Francisco
Located in the HaightAshbury neighbourhood, this interactive museum will open in May 2025 and will provide immersive insight into 20th-century subcultures, including the hippies and the Beats, plus the struggle for civil rights, feminism and LGBTQ+ liberation. counterculturemuseum.org
Celebrating 90 years of the Griffith Observatory
Since opening its doors on 14 May 1935, Griffith Observatory has become the world's most-visited observatory, welcoming 1.6 million visitors a year. The LA landmark offers a unique hybrid of public observatory, planetarium and exhibition space, and boasts an impressive view of the iconic Hollywood Sign. Find out more about its 90th-anniversary celebrations by visiting griffithobservatory.org/90th-anniversary
Paso Wine Fest returns
For over 40 years, the Paso Wine Fest has celebrated the finest wines in and around Paso Robles, 30 miles north of San Luis Obispo. Running from 15 to 18 May, the four-day celebration will feature winemaker dinners and a grand tasting with over 120 Paso wineries. Tickets start from £81. pasowine.com/winefest
The world's first motel turns 100
The Motel Inn – originally known as the Milestone Mo-Tel –celebrates its 100th anniversary. Built in 1925, it revolutionised hospitality with the concept of providing rooms directly accessible from the car park. Halfway between San Francisco and LA, on Highway 1, its guests reportedly included Marilyn Monroe and Joe DiMaggio. Today, only the bell tower and a commemorative sign remain, but its legacy lives on.
A tree's view of Santa Monica's history
At the Santa Monica History Museum (Downtown), Roots and Branches: A Tree’s View of Santa Monica, marks the coastal city's 150th anniversary. The exhibition explores Santa Monica’s environmental history and how nature and humanity coexist, and will run until 14 December 2025. santamonicahistory.org
Travel that takes
CALIFORNIA UNCORKED
Eat your way through San Francisco and California Wine Country one epicurean extravaganza at a time, with our experts opening doors to culinary experiences every step of the way. Wind through buzzing neighbourhoods while you indulge in our best-kept secrets, from specialist cooking classes at Cavallo Point to meet-the-winemaker experiences in Sonoma Valley and Michelin-starred dining in the renowned Napa Valley.
Our California specialists will use their expert inside knowledge and seamless service to create the perfect itinerary for you.
Everybody comes to Hollywood, and everyone thinks they know California.
From Pretty Woman’s Rodeo Drive to David Lynch’s Mulholland Drive, sights like the Hollywood Sign, Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz, Venice Beach and Beverly Hills have been beamed into the public consciousness through television, cinema and smartphone screens.
For decades, kids have dreamed of summer holidays to Disneyland and Universal Studios Hollywood, but there is so much more to California than just these landmark attractions. From tucked-away towns, extraordinary accommodations and secret beaches to offbeat attractions, secluded state parks and under-the-radar restaurants, we reveal some of our favourite lesser-known gems in the Golden State.
Secret Beaches 6
Mattole Beach, Lost Coast
Muir Beach, Marin County
Hidden Beach, Klamath
True to its name, Hidden Beach is a secluded cove near Klamath in Del Norte County. Accessible via a stunning scenic hike, visitors are rewarded with magnificent rock formations and a pebble beach beneath great piles of timber and driftwood.
Luffenholtz Beach, Humboldt County
Located on the Northern California coastline, Luffenholtz Beach is defined by vertiginous cliffs, dramatic sea stacks and wild coastal trails. It’s a perfect spot for hiking and connecting with nature, far from the usual sun seekers.
Pelican State Beach, Del Norte County
As the northernmost state beach in California, Pelican State Beach is an undeveloped site near the Oregon border. Known as “the loneliest beach in California”, it offers grassy dunes and driftwood-strewn sands, perfect for those seeking solitude.
Pfeiffer Beach, Big Sur
With an easy-to-miss entrance off Highway 1, along the iconic Big Sur coastline, Pfeiffer Beach is renowned for its unique purple shoreline, striking sea stacks and natural arches. Yes, that’s right, a purple beach! Its unusual hue is due to manganese garnet deposits in the sand.
Seal
Beach, Orange County
Situated between the ever-popular Long and Huntington beaches, Seal Beach’s white sands are much less busy but still offer all the amenities you need for a day by the sea. Located on Orange County’s northernmost shore, beachgoers can enjoy everything from surfing and bodyboarding to volleyball and fishing from the pier.
outdoor escapes 7
Point Reyes National Seashore
An hour north of San Francisco, Point Reyes combines rocky headlands and expansive sand beaches with open grasslands and hiking trails through forested ridges. Between December and May, gray whales can be spotted from the Lighthouse and Chimney Rock areas, while elephant seals can be seen on Drakes Beach and around the headlands.
Castle Crags State Park
Located in Northern California, Castle Crags State Park is renowned for its dramatic granite spires, offering excellent hiking and rock-climbing opportunities. The Crags Trail is the best place to take in breathtaking views of these unique formations.
Mammoth Mountain Bike Park
Known as the best bike park in the USA, this park offers trails suitable for all levels, with 80 miles of track across the entirety of Mammoth Mountain. Open from late May to mid-September, it’s a premier destination for seasoned downhill and singletrack biking enthusiasts.
As
June Mountain
Red Rock Canyon State Park
Located in the east of Kern County, this park features unique rock formations in stunning red hues. With miles of hiking trails and a campsite, it’s a great place to explore, especially when the wildflowers bloom in spring.
Auburn State Recreation Area
In the heart of Gold Country, Auburn State Recreation Area spans 40 miles of the American River. Once teeming with thousands of gold miners, today it offers hiking, boating, fishing, camping, mountain biking, gold panning and whitewater rafting to adventurous visitors.
Often overshadowed by nearby ski resorts, June Mountain offers 1,400 acres of skiable terrain and is ideal for families, since children 12 and under ski for free. Located between Yosemite and Mammoth Lakes, its uncrowded slopes provide a relaxed skiing experience.
Big Basin Redwoods State Park
California’s oldest state park, founded in 1902, Big Basin is famous for its ancient coast redwoods – some of which have a 50ft circumference and are as tall as the Statue of Liberty. Set in the heart of the Santa Cruz Mountains, the park also offers stunning views of the Pacific Ocean.
extraordinary STAYS 6
Treebones Resort, Big Sur
Perched along the breathtaking Big Sur coastline, Treebones offers a unique glamping experience with its collection of yurts and the one-of-a-kind Human Nest – a handcrafted, wooden nest-like structure where guests can sleep under the stars. The resort emphasises sustainability and provides panoramic ocean views: a serene retreat for nature lovers. treebonesresort.com
Railroad Park Resort, Northern California
Stay the night in an original, vintage railway car – or a caboose, as they’re known – then eat in an authentic dining carriage. Set in a picturesque forested area of Northern California, the accommodations offer a memorable getaway for train lovers and those looking for something – ahem – off the beaten track. rrpark.com
The Inn at Benton Hot Springs, Benton
Tucked away near the eastern Sierra Nevada, this historic inn offers accommodation with private natural hot-spring tubs. Guests can choose from charming rooms in the main house or opt for more secluded cottages, all while enjoying the therapeutic benefits of the mineral-rich hot springs in a tranquil, rustic setting. bentonhotsprings.us
Wigwam Motel, San Bernardino
The Wigwam Motel on historic Route 66 is a fun, nostalgic stay in teepee-shaped cabins. While this kind of Native American cultural appropriation wouldn’t fly these days, in the context of its time it remains a quirky, kitsch slice of mid-20th-century Americana. wigwammotel.com
Near Joshua Tree National Park, Hicksville is a tongue-in-cheek trailer park featuring an array of themed vintage trailers, each uniquely decorated. Guests can enjoy amenities such as a saltwater pool, archery range and a rooftop hot tub, all while immersing themselves in the eclectic desert vibe. hicksvillepalace.com The Victorian Mansion at Los Alamos Located in the Santa Ynez Valley, this bed and breakfast offers six elaborately themed suites, including a 1950s drive-in, a pirate ship and an Egyptian chamber. Each suite spans an entire floor and is meticulously designed to transport guests to a different time and place, providing a whimsical lodging experience. thevick.com
Hicksville Trailer Palace, Joshua Tree
Solvang
A Danish-inspired town in the Santa Ynez Valley, purpose-built by a group of Danish immigrants to preserve their culture, Solvang features quaint streets lined with half-timbered buildings and windmills. Here you’ll find a Hans Christian Andersen Museum, a replica of the Little Mermaid and a traditional Lutheran church, plus no fewer than four windmills and six Danish bakeries. There’s also, naturally, a troll, made from recycled materials by artist Thomas Dambo.
tucked-away towns 7
Julian
Set in the Cuyamaca Mountains, Julian is a historic Gold-Rush town famed for its delicious apple pies. Visitors can explore its wellpreserved 19th-century architecture, enjoy outdoor activities like hiking in the nearby Cuyamaca Rancho State Park and stargazing, since the town is a designated International Dark Sky Community.
St. Helena
Located in Napa Valley, St. Helena is renowned for its world-class wineries and culinary delights. Visitors can enjoy wine tastings, dine at gourmet restaurants and take in the beautiful vineyard landscapes. Main Street is lined with historic buildings, offering a delightful setting for leisurely strolls and wine tasting.
»
Ojai
Known for its spiritual retreats, art galleries and organic farms, Ojai is surrounded by stunning mountains. Discover art galleries, enjoy the local farmers’ markets and organic dining options, explore hiking and biking trails, and marvel at the famous ‘pink moment’ sunsets.
ere are coastlines. en there are mountains that leap out of the ocean and cradle eclectic neighborhoods and secluded enclaves in their outstretched arms.
at’s more than beautiful, it’s
SANTA BARBARA BRILLIANT
Balboa Island
Accessible via a short ferry ride from Newport Beach, Balboa Island offers picturesque waterfront homes, quaint shops and delicious treats like Balboa Bars – ice cream dipped in chocolate and covered with toppings. Along with its charming boardwalk, unique boutiques and waterfront dining, visitors can enjoy the beaches, paddleboarding, sailing and exploring the nearby Balboa Fun Zone amusement area.
Healdsburg
Sonoma County is a paradise for wine lovers, and picture-perfect Healdsburg – where there’s a white-picket vibe that borders on Tim Burton’s idea of suburban America – is home to Jordan Vineyard & Winery and Stuhlmuller Vineyards, known for their Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Zinfandel wines. Enjoy wine tastings, gourmet dining at plant-based restaurants like Little Saint, and exploring the cutesy downtown and its artisan shops.
Idyllwild
Surrounded by San Bernardino National Forest, this serene mountain town is a haven for nature lovers and artists. With stunning hiking trails like the Devil’s Slide Trail, top rock-climbing crags, art galleries and a cosy small-town atmosphere, it’s a perfect escape, high in the San Jacinto Mountains.
The American Riviera ® - where mountains meet ocean
under-theradar eats
La Taqueria, San Francisco
Located in the Mission District, La Taqueria has been a local favourite for five decades. It’s famous for its Mission-style burritos, known for their simplicity – no rice, just perfectly seasoned meats, beans, salsa and fresh tortillas. Their carne asada burrito is widely regarded as one of the best in California. lataqueriasf.net
Sam’s Chowder House, Half Moon Bay
A hidden gem for seafood lovers, Sam’s is known for its New England-style clam chowder and legendary lobster roll, often ranked among the best in the USA. The waterfront setting makes it a perfect stop for a relaxed meal, and fresh, high-quality ingredients are used. samschowderhouse.com
Nepenthe, Big Sur
Tuck Box, Carmel-by-the-Sea
Homesick? This charming tea room and bakery offers pastries, homemade scones with clotted cream and jam, and a complete afternoon-tea menu in an incongruously English setting. The breakfasts are some of the best in town, too. tuckbox.com
Bakery & Café, Santa Monica
Known for its delicious brunch options, Huckleberry Bakery & Café offers a cosy, welcoming atmosphere with a menu featuring fresh, seasonal ingredients. Try their signature maple bacon biscuit or blueberry cornmeal cake. It’s a delightful spot for a leisurely brunch. huckleberrycafe.com
Apple Pan, Los Angeles This
and the
Huckleberry
offbeat attractions 7
Winchester Mystery House, San Jose
This sprawling Victorian mansion is famed for its eerie staircases to nowhere, doors that open onto walls, hidden passageways and labyrinthine design. Built by Sarah Winchester, widow of the eponymous firearms magnate, it’s believed these architectural peculiarities were intended to confuse the spectres that haunted Sarah. winchestermysteryhouse.com
The Mystery Spot, Santa Cruz
Discovered in 1939, this gravitational anomaly is an area where the laws of physics and gravity seem to be defied. Visitors experience perplexing phenomena, such as objects appearing to roll uphill and people seeming to tilt at unusual angles. mysteryspot.com
Salvation Mountain, Niland
Located in the Colorado Desert (in California, yes), Salvation Mountain is a vibrant, colourful art installation created by Leonard Knight. Made from adobe, straw and thousands of gallons of paint, the artificial mountain is adorned with murals and Bible verses, reflecting Knight’s devotion to spreading a message of love. salvationmountain.org
Dinosaurs, Cabazon
The Wave Organ, San Francisco
This acoustic sculpture, located on a jetty in the Marina District, consists of a series of pipes that create intriguing sounds as waves crash against them. The result is a unique auditory experience that varies with the tides and weather conditions. exploratorium.edu/visit/wave-organ
The Museum of Jurassic Technology, Los Angeles
This enigmatic museum offers a blend of fact and fiction, featuring exhibits that range from the obscure to the bizarre. Lines between reality and imagination blur here, inviting visitors to question the nature of museums and secondhand knowledge. Advance bookings only. mjt.org
The Integratron, Landers
Built in the 1950s, this dome-shaped structure was designed (allegedly with the help of extraterrestrials) as a time machine and rejuvenation chamber. Today, it’s known for its sound baths, where visitors can relax and meditate to the resonant tones produced within the acoustically perfect space. integratron.com
TOURS RECOMMENDED
Journeyscape
California’s National Parks
15 days from £3,580 per person
Explore Yosemite, Death Valley and Joshua Tree, plus the breathtaking Sierra Nevada, for an unforgettable journey through extraordinary landscapes.
Winelands of California
8 days from £3,450 per person
Sip wines in Napa and Sonoma, stroll through leafy vineyards and indulge in world-class cuisine, for an indulgent and scenic getaway.
Best of Northern California
16 days from £4,190 per person
Hike Mount Shasta, drive the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway and relax by Lake Tahoe, for an authentic taste of California’s great outdoors.
Rocky McKinnon McKinnon Surf & SUP Lessons
“In Huntington Beach, experienced surfers can paddle out at the Pier and rub elbows with aspiring pros and world champs, or head down the beach and find a peak to surf all to yourself. My favourite time to surf here is in the fall to early winter.”
Tournament of the Roses Parade
January (Pasadena) Famous for its elaborate flower-covered floats, marching bands, and equestrian units, this New Year’s parade kicks off the Rose Bowl.
Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival
April (Indio)
A massive two-weekend event blending music, art, and fashion in the desert, featuring major artists and creative installations.
California State Fair
July (Sacramento) Celebration of California’s agriculture, culture, and innovation, with carnival rides, livestock shows, live music, and plenty of food.
Outside Lands Music and Arts Festival
August (San Francisco)
Held in Golden Gate Park, this festival features top-tier music acts, gourmet food and local wine.
Napa Valley Harvest Season
August to October (Napa)
A magical time in wine country when grapes are picked, crush parties abound, and wineries host special tastings and events.
Día de los Muertos
November (Los Angeles & San Francisco)
Vibrant cultural celebrations honouring the Day of the Dead with altars, costumes, music, and traditional food in Latino communities.
Hollywood Christmas Parade
November/December (Los Angeles)
A festive holiday parade down Hollywood Boulevard featuring celebrities, floats, marching bands, and, of course, Santa Claus.
A drive into California’s coastal north reveals cinematic shorelines, soaring trees and a deep Indigenous heritage that is finally being shared.
I’m rarely happy when leaving one of the world’s great cities. But San Francisco’s impatient drivers and cartoonish hills can sometimes make crossing the Golden Gate Bridge’s great rust-orange towers a relief rather than a delight.
The feeling is fleeting though, because once the chaotic Bay Area is successfully navigated, my drive north up California’s Highway 101 becomes something altogether different. Four lanes mercifully shrink to two, cities become towns and the drizzle peppering my windscreen diffuses into flares of sunlight as pockets of blue sky break through the cloud.
In this light, Mendocino County’s lumpy green hills appear fashioned from snooker table baize as woolly sleeves of mist hang over their summits. Circling hawks and doddery private planes buzz around even higher. For thousands of years, this land was home to the Pomo people, a large Indigenous tribe who relied on fishing, hunting and gathering for their survival but are probably best known nowadays for their intricate basket weaving.
The colonisation of their lands in the 19th century made the Pomo a societal afterthought, though one artist didn’t see it that way. I stop in Ukiah, home to the Grace Hudson Museum. Born in 1865, Hudson was a prolific oil-painting artist and was famous for her sympathetic portraits of native people (most notably
The Native North Coast
Left: The road through the Avenue of the Giants, Humboldt Redwoods State Park.
Right: Glass Beach, Fort Bragg California.
Widescreen views from Pomo Bluffs Park reveal a rocky, weathered coast dotted by small bedrock islands
1891’s National Thorn portraying a Pomo baby asleep in a traditional basket). In a field dominated by men, her success was almost as unusual as the predominant subject of her work.
This small museum exhibits around
40 of her 685 paintings, while next door is the Sun House, Hudson’s grand bungalow, made from California redwood, where she lived with her husband John. Her art is a fascinating window into a dying culture as modern America expanded westward. But to learn more about the Pomo in the 21st century, I need to drive to the coast.
Turning off the 101 at Willets, California State Route 20 winds a serpentine 35-mile path through dense forests of second-growth redwoods before emerging at sea-sprayed Fort Bragg. My first sighting of the Pacific is majestic, as the Noyo River bends around a harbour studded with fish shacks and small bars, while the widescreen views from Pomo Bluffs Park reveal a rocky, weathered coast dotted by small bedrock islands.
Four miles south of Fort Bragg lies Xa Kako Dile, an Indigenous, women-led, non-profit organisation operating on a peaceful six-acre patch of land within a local farm. I’m greeted by U’ilani Wesley (who goes by U’i), the executive director. There’s nothing stuffy about that title –this is a place for conversation, creativity and healing.
“It’s a safe space for tribal organisations,” she says as we talk
2.
inside the converted barn they use as a headquarters. “My responsibility is –because I’m a guest here – to amplify their voices if they are not being listened to.”
U’i is originally from Hawaii, but feels a deep connection with the people here and especially the land. She leads me outside and sings a soaring choral song welcoming me to the land. Other Pomo are given the opportunity to greet me with a few words and it’s humbling, especially hearing their warmth and reverence for the land.
Basket-weaving workshops, Indigenous storytelling and food markets are just some of the summertime events here, and ask U’i how locals have taken to Xa Kako Dile since it opened two years ago.
“They want to learn,” she says. “We rekindle a fire for them to search, even though it’s not a great past… if they go deep enough they’ll see the beautiful parts. Colonisation hurt us all, and what a lot of folks don’t realise is that it’s separated us as a humanity. We all need to figure out ways to work together better, as a people.”
Inside, Eric Wilder – a local Pomo – is leaning back in a swivel chair behind dark sunglasses. A graphic artist by trade, he’s proud of his heritage and often visits to give talks on that tradition.
“This place is cool; such a great energy
here,” he tells me. “I think U’i’s the perfect person for this place. She was very hesitant at first when I met her, because she wasn’t from here, but said, ‘You have a bigger tie to here than you realise’. Her people call it the Rainbow Bridge, that they travelled here on. We were told in our history that there’s a land bridge that went out to the islands. So we have the same story.”
Continuing my journey north toward Humboldt County, I join California State Route 1, also known as the Shoreline Highway. It’s a glorious drive, dipping and swirling along the cliffs as the breaking waves below fizz onto the shore. My ears pop as the road veers high into more redwood forests and the famous Avenue of the Giants, with the high trees sometimes just a foot or two away from the edge of the road, like imposing guardians of the wilderness.
Arriving in the handsome Victorian village of Ferndale, I meet Marcus and Leah Daniels who bridge communities from far afield in a unique way. Working
from his musty tool-strewn ‘manufactory’ called Minds Eye, Marcus has a sparkling intensity in his eyes and hosts workshops building longboats for the Aleut people, natives of the distant Aleutian Islands, a community he’s been deeply involved in for 32 years.
“I’m real careful to not come across as a know-it-all,” says Marcus with a smile. “But think the greatest gift have to offer them is my enthusiasm. We’re able to learn together, helping them rediscover something.”
4.
1. Harbor Lite Lodge Close to Glass Beach, these are the finest affordable lodgings in Fort Bragg. harborlitelodge.com
Victoria Inn Classic Victorian grandeur and charm with all modern conveniences, in Ferndale. victorianvillageinn.com
3. Carter House Inns A Victorian Mansion in historic Old Town Eureka, not far from Redwoods National Forest. carterhouse.com
Howonquet (Xaa-wan'k'wvt) Village & Resort An Indigenous-run resort with cabins, lodges, and RV sites, offering cultural experiences. xvresort.com
5. The Historic Requa Inn This 111-year-old inn on the picturesque Klamath River offers rides in traditional redwood canoes. requainn.com
Opposite page, from the top: Pomo Bluffs Park; Mendocino Headland Beach Trail.
This page, from the top: Avenue of the Giants at Humboldt Redwoods State Park; Ferndale Victorian Main Street.
My drive north turns ever-more arresting as Highway 101 crests toward Trinidad Bay –the dramatic approach is like a painting
Chatting next to a crackling fire, which he incrementally feeds with lumps of wood, Daniels talks about how local tribes like Wiyot and Yurok have become involved too, and how he’s also helped them on their projects.
“It’s often really hard to find places where you can interact with Indigenous people on a meaningful level,” says his friend Steve, who wanders over to join us.
“So, it’s a nice little venue to get to know some of the local native groups,” Daniels adds.
I agree, and the boats, tools and paintings are all evidence of the hard work and camaraderie that goes on here, where detached communities gain a little more understanding.
My drive north turns ever-more arresting as Highway 101 crests toward Trinidad Bay, a small fishing village with a collection of gaudy offshore rocks rising from its glimmering waters. The dramatic approach is like a painting.
After walking among old-growth redwoods and soaking in the mentholcrisp air at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, my final stop is Del Norte County, which nudges the Oregon state line in California’s extreme north. Reclaimed by the Tolowa Dee-ni’ Nation in 2016, Howonquet Village & Resort on the Smith River Estuary is a collection of tranquil water-facing lodges, which feel a million miles from the hum of Los Angeles or San Francisco.
Turning south, my final night is spent at the 111-year-old Requa Inn, alongside the Klamath River. The snaking river is also
flanked by a Yurok reservation spanning 43 miles, though that’s nothing compared to what they once owned. After cooking me breakfast, owner and Yurok tribal member Jan Wortman joins my table to tell me more.
“It’s all beautiful landscape but not usable,” she explains. “Before colonisation, we had like 530,000 acres, and now we have 5,300, so it’s shrunk dramatically.”
Beautiful indeed: awoke that morning to a sigh-inducing sunrise, the sky painted in strokes of blush pink. Sepiatoned photographs of Jan's family line the hotel corridors and the Requa offers rides in redwood canoes, handmade by Yurok tribal members. But my time had run out.
“My husband always says that the space between heaven and earth is thinnest at Requa,” Wortman says. “So this is a very spiritual place. It’s amazing how many people walk into the inn and go ‘wow.’”
She’s right, and I can’t think of a more ideal ending to perhaps the most enlightening drive I’ve ever taken.
GETTING THERE San Francisco International Airport is the best place to arrive. Whether you want to start straight from the airport or spend a night in the city is up to you.
GETTING AROUND Hire a car in San Francisco or fly to Arcata–Eureka Airport and rent a car up there to avoid the busy city.
BEST TIME TO GO California is a true year-round destination, where even winter will bring blue skies (with mild days and chilly nights). Summer is perhaps a little too busy, especially in the popular coastal towns, so aim for the shoulder seasons.
W HERE TO EAT Patrona ( patronarestaurant.com) is a superb laid-back restaurant in Ukiah that serves a majestic pork belly bahn mi that’s well worth stopping for.
If you prefer coastal flavours, don’t miss the tender halibut fish and chips from Seascape Restaurant and Pier located in Trinidad Bay.
FURTHER INFORMATION
visitmendocino.com
visithumboldt.com
visitferndale.com
visitdelnortecounty.com
This spread, clockwise from top left: Trinidad Bay; wooden boardwalk through an evergreen trees forest, Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park; Roosevelt elk in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park; The Trinidad Memorial and Memorial Lighthouse in Trinidad.
In the shine of
the ever
Shasta Cascade is a wild and untamed corner of northeastern California.
Dominated by the looming twin peaks of Mount Shasta, a dormant volcano that soars to 14,162ft, the region’s fiery origins are etched into every ridge and valley – from the eternal landscapes of Lava Beds National Monument to the steaming fumaroles of Lassen Volcanic National Park. Nevertheless, its landscapes are diverse, encompassing forever-green forests, rugged peaks, the sheen on Shasta Lake and the spring-fed cascades of McArthur-Burney Falls.
The Modoc, Maidu, Okwanuchu, Paiute, Shasta, Wintu and Yana tribes once flourished here, their cultures deeply entwined with the land, and this place still thrills the adventurous and offers quiet solace to those who seek it. With seven national forests and numerous parks and recreation areas to explore, the Shasta Cascade invites all to discover a place where nature’s majesty and serenity coexist in perfect harmony.
Left: Kayaking on Manzanita Lake with Mount Lasson in the background.
This spread, clockwise from the top: Siskiyou Lake and Mount Shasta; Adult Northern Pacific Rattlesnake; A bald eagle; Lake Siskiyou.
This page, from the top: The road Through Lassen Volcanic National Park; Kings Creek Falls in Lassen Volcanic National Park.
Opposite page: Lassen Volcanic National Park.
GETTING THERE Sacramento is the closest international airport. From here it’s around a three-hour drive, or you could take a domestic flight from Los Angeles International Airport or San Francisco International Airport to Redding Regional Airport in Shasta County.
GETTING AROUND You’ll need a car to properly explore the whole Shasta Cascade region, so hire a vehicle – ideally 4WD – from your destination airport. BEST TIME TO GO The best time to visit depends on your activities. March to May, when temperatures rise from 5°C to the mid-twenties, is a great time for hiking. June to September (21°C to 31°C) is ideal for camping and swimming in lakes, while December to February is the perfect time for winter sports.
FURTHER INFORMATION visitcalifornia.com/region/shasta-cascade visitredding.com visitmtshasta.com; upstateca.com
Opposite page from the top: Mount Shasta Volcano; Lava Beds National Monument.
This page, clockwise from left: McArthurBurney Falls; McCloud River flowing through Shasta National Forest; Lava Tube Cave at Lava Beds National Monument; Sacramento River and Sundial Bridge in Redding.
California Cruising
Embark on Trailfinders’ “Classic California Coast” itinerary – a 14 night fly drive adventure that takes you along the iconic Highway 1 from San Francisco to San Diego. Start in the vibrant streets of San Francisco, then cruise down the Pacific Coast Highway, where dramatic sea cliffs and postcard-perfect sights await.
Explore charming towns like Monterey, with its world-class aquarium, and Santa Barbara, often dubbed the American Riviera for its Old Hollywood charm. Conclude your journey in San Diego, soaking up the laid-back SoCal vibes. This itinerary offers the freedom to explore at your own pace, is fully customizable, with carefully selected accommodations ensuring a comfortable stay throughout your coastal journey.
SCAN HERE TO DISCOVER MORE CALIFORNIA HOLIDAYS
Sun, Serenity Sip
From Laguna’s golden shores to Temecula’s vineyards and Palm Springs’ desert oasis –
a SoCal road trip through wellness and wine country is a vacation for the soul
“If you’re having fun, you’re doing it right,” Dave Sullenger proclaims, his arms thrown wide like a game show host revealing a brand-new car. The group around him, about a dozen sundappled strangers in Laguna Beach, blurts out a collective “Ha-ha haa!”. Their choreographed laughter rises above the omnipresent sounds of crashing waves and keening pelicans.
This is laughter yoga, a light movement class held four times a week on Main Beach, in which the only real requirement is that you must laugh – even if you have to fake it – until it turns into the real thing. And trust me, it will turn real. Maybe it’s the sheer absurdity of standing under the blindingly cheerful Southern Californian sky, forcing out giggles between a retired engineer and a woman in a tie-dye kaftan. Or maybe it’s the way joy, much like a rogue wave, has a habit of sneaking up on you in this lively beach town. Either way, within minutes, the whole group is doubled over, shaking with unfiltered, contagious laughter. It’s playful, silly and strangely life-affirming, very much like a full-body reset.
As I catch my breath, grinning at the sheer ridiculousness of it all, I realise this is exactly why I planned this trip. Three days, three destinations; a Southern California road trip built entirely around one goal: to feel good. Not just relaxed but completely restored.
Laguna Beach has long been in the business of spreading good vibes. The persistent sunshine seems to melt everyone into some kind of blissed-out affability, while the spirit of Eiler Larsen, who became the official town greeter, lingers like salt in the air. For decades, Larsen stood on Pacific Coast Highway,
waving and calling out “Hello!” to passing cars like a one-man welcome committee.
Though he has passed on, his memory lingers through statues around town – a testament to the fact that here, kindness isn’t just encouraged, it’s practically a local ordinance.
Beyond the sun-kissed euphoria, the soul of Laguna is in its art. With two of the country’s top art festivals calling Laguna home, residents cling to the belief that a life without art is a life poorly lived. Along the beach, plein-air painters dot the cliffs like human seagulls, capturing the shifting light with practiced strokes. At Blk Dot Coffee, chat with friendly students from the vibrant Laguna College of Art + Design.
After gallery hopping through some of the village’s more than 100 galleries, stop at the Laguna Art Museum, a small but mighty institution that proves bigger isn’t always better. The collections form an ode to California artists, showcasing the kind of work that makes you see the state in a broader context: more rugged and more textured.
When I’ve finished swimming in the colours and stories, I find myself conveniently next door to Las Brisas, a restaurant that takes the whole ‘coastal dining’ concept and dials it up to eleven. Between the fresh seafood, margaritas that arrive in fishbowl-sized glasses and sweeping Pacific views, the experience is less of a meal and more of a prolonged, golden daydream.
And why stop at just one? This is a town that puts on a feast for the tastebuds as well as the eyes. Case in point: the tinned fish platter at The Lumberyard is a spread that feels like a passport to the world’s best coastlines. It’s the kind of snack that
Previous spread, left to right: Laguna Beach; Temecula CA.
This page, from the top: Laguna Art Museum; Woods Cove in Laguna Beach. »
Tucked between rolling vineyards and golden hillsides, Temecula is having a moment, boasting a wellness scene that feels both lush and restorative
pairs best with a crisp white wine and the smug satisfaction of knowing you’ve fully leaned into the happy, seaside lifestyle.
Just 70 miles inland, the scene shifts from salty ocean breezes to sun-drenched vineyards, where the art of relaxation is taken just as seriously, if with a slightly higher alcohol content.
Tucked between rolling vineyards and golden hillsides, Temecula is having a moment, emerging from the shadow of more famous California wine regions while boasting a wellness scene that feels both lush and restorative.
My first stop is Spa Pechanga, where the treatment menu reads like a love letter to relaxation – herbal wraps, CBD massages and body scrubs that sound good enough to eat. opt for the Journey of the Payómkawichum, a cultural immersion experience that kicks off with a soundscape meditation, followed by a soothing massage that taps into the healing power of native botanicals, straight from the traditions of the region’s Indigenous people.
I drift out of the spa in search of the perfect bridge between deep relaxation and the rhythm of real life. Enter the Rose Haven Heritage Garden, a sprawling hillside oasis filled with nearly 2,000 rose bushes, perfuming the air like an expensive fragrance commercial. I meander along the winding paths, one foot still in the dreamlike tranquillity of the spa, the other gently stepping back toward the world.
No visit to Temecula is complete without surrendering to the reason most people come here: the wine. start at South Coast Winery, a powerhouse that has racked up more awards than I can count and somehow still feels laid back. A glass of their Sauvignon Blanc on the sun-drenched patio is the perfect
re-entry into civilisation. From there, it’s on to Wilson Creek Winery, famous for its almond sparkling wine, which sounds gimmicky but is, in fact, dangerously drinkable. And finally, for a touch of pure Temecula whimsy, Briar Rose Winery, which looks so much like a fairytale village I almost expect my glass to be refilled by adorable woodland creatures. By sunset, the hills are glowing gold, my shoulders have never felt looser, and I’ve officially bought into the Temecula lifestyle – one where wellness and wine country go hand in hand. But before start
researching vineyard real estate, there’s another kind of California fantasy calling.
If Laguna Beach is all sun-kissed friendliness and Temecula is the laidback, wine-drenched retreat, then Palm Springs is their effortlessly cool, slightly cheeky cousin who always knows where the best party is. To get there, I opt for the long way, wending up Highway 74 – AKA, the Palms to Pines Scenic Byway – where the road takes a dramatic ascent through evergreen-studded mountains before descending into the desert.
Opposite page from the top: Scenic Byway in the San Jacinto Mountains; Old Town Temecula.
This page: South Coast Winery, Charcuterie board at South Coast Winery.
This isn’t just a scenic detour; it’s a place where the earth thrums with energy as myth and geology intertwine
Palm Springs feels like a mid-century mirage, a place where time stopped in 1962 because it was having too much fun to keep moving. The city first became a desert playground for Hollywood’s elite thanks to the ‘two-hour rule,’ a studio mandate that required actors to stay within a short drive of Los Angeles while under contract, and has maintained a glam sheen ever since. Everywhere you look, there’s either a perfect vintage car, a poolside cocktail, or a sexagenarian man wearing teensy white shorts with enviable confidence.
With nothing but pure, unadulterated lounging on my agenda for the day, I decide to earn my leisure time by kicking things off with a morning hike. Tahquitz Canyon is the perfect choice – one of those rare places where you can feel like an intrepid explorer while staying a mere ten-minute drive from your next martini.
This isn’t just a scenic detour; it’s a place where the earth thrums with energy as myth and geology intertwine. The canyon is the ancestral home of the Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians and holds deep spiritual significance. Below the surface of the land, three fault lines converge, their ancient collisions shaping the towering rock walls. It was here that the ancestors banished Tahquitz, a powerful shaman who turned selfish and destructive; his restless spirit is said to still prowl the gnarled cliffs.
The desert silence is thick with reverence during the hour-long trek, broken only by the crescendo of the trail’s grand finale: a spectacular 60ft waterfall whooshing over granite into a sparkling, crystal-clear pool. Wading into the icy water feels both decadent and exhilarating, a reminder that even in the heart of the desert, Palm Springs finds a way to slip in a little luxury.
After a day spent immersed in the canyon’s raw beauty and deep history, it only feels right to embrace the cit y’s more refined side too. Dinner is at Mister Parker’s, a restaurant that feels like a secret whispered in velvet, tucked into a space that’s moodily lit, decadent and ever so slightly mischievous. Waiters glide by with jewel-toned drinks, and the menu leans unapologetically indulgent. Nothing here is quite what it seems. The flickering candle on the table? It’s actually butter for your bread. As the meal concludes, the server slips a package of pastries on the table with a note: “I hope it was as good for you as it was for me –Mister Parker.”
A night in Palm Springs isn’t complete without at least one after-dinner detour, so off go to Counter Reformation, a slender, dimly lit wine bar tucked in the back of the Parker Palm Springs
Hotel. The whole place feels like a chic speakeasy for people who treat wine lists like adventure maps. I sip something exquisite, nibble on caviar and doughnuts, and take in the scene: hip, intimate, the kind of place where strangers strike up conversations and then promptly duck into the confessional booth. (Yes, a real confessional booth. No, I didn’t dare ask what they had to confess.)
By the time step outside, the desert air has cooled, the stars are putting on a ridiculous show, and I feel it – that deep, full-body exhale that only comes when you’ve taken care of yourself by chasing joy in all its forms. A laughter yoga session under the Laguna Beach sun.
A spa day in Temecula’s wine country. And finally, magical Palm Springs, where the night is always young, and for a little while, real life fades into the background.
GETTING THERE From the UK, fly to John Wayne Airport Orange County, which is about 15 miles from Laguna Beach.
GETTING AROUND Hiring a car is essential for travelling between cities. Once you arrive, Laguna Beach offers a free trolley, but Temecula’s wine country is best explored by car (or by hiring a local driver). Palm Springs is perfect for adventuring by bike or on foot.
BEST TIME TO GO You can’t go wrong any time of year, but autumn offers quieter beaches, mild desert days and festive harvest events in wine country.
W HERE TO EAT The Loft at Montage Laguna Beach montage.com) boasts
unbeatable ocean views. In
The Goat & Vine thegoatandvine.com) is a winner. Don’t miss the bold flavours of Palm Springs’ Lola Rose ( lolaroseps.com), nestled in downtown, as well as Mister Parker’s ( parkerpalmsprings.com)
W HERE TO STAY
The Ranch at Laguna Beach theranchlb.com
The Vine House Bed & Breakfast, Temecula vinehousebedandbreakfast.com
The Parker Palm Springs parkerpalmsprings.com
FURTHER INFORMATION visitcalifornia.com
Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Tahquitz Canyon; A street in Palm Springs; Tahquitz Falls; A home in Palm Springs; Elvis Presley`s honeymoon house in Palm Springs. This page, from the top: Counter Reformation bar in Palm Springs.
Temecula,
Follow in the path of the pioneering “49ers” on a road trip through California’s Gold Country and discover America’s rich history and priceless natural wonders along the way
CALIFORNIA
GOLD
A vineyard in the Hobbit-sized village of Murphys, which lies in the foothills of California’s Sierra Nevada, isn’t where I expect to find the world’s largest piece of crystalline gold, but this priceless threestone nugget is the star exhibit at the Ironstone Vineyards Heritage Museum in Calaveras County. The privately owned collection, set within 1,150 acres of gardens and vines, pays tribute to the 19th-century Gold Rush and the Native American people whose lives were forever changed by the discovery of the California Mother Lode: a rich belt of gold, coursing through the state.
Stretching 300 miles from California’s Sierra County in the north to Madera County in the south, Highway 49 winds through the historic towns that sprung up after James W Marshall struck gold on the American River in 1848. Discovered
by Marshall during the construction of a sawmill, in a valley the Indigenous Nisenan people knew as Cullumah or ‘Beautiful Valley’ (now the city of Coloma), these flakes of yellow metal sparked the greatest mass movement of people in the Western Hemisphere.
“When snow in the Sierra Nevada melts, streams pour down the mountains, rearranging the riverbeds. Gold is 19 times heavier than water, which is key to its recovery: water washes everything away, leaving the gold behind,” explains Conrad Levasseur, Director of Community Relations and Development at Ironstone Vineyards. “Gold’s natural beauty has caused the rise and fall of many an empire. The discovery of gold in 1848 completely changed California – and the whole nation.”
Once news of “gold in them thar hills” got out, thousands left America’s east coast and headed west, with some travelling more than 2,000 miles by horse and wagon across the plains, over the Rocky Mountains and through the Sierra Nevada into California. Others took the months-long boat voyage via Panama,
or risked the treacherous 17,000-mile route around South America’s Cape Horn. Gold seekers from Australia, New Zealand, China and Hawaii also arrived to stake their claims, transforming the once-sleepy towns of San Francisco, Sacramento and Stockton. Houses, hotels, gambling halls and saloons sprung up to meet the needs of the prospectors and the enterprising men and women cannily “mined the miners” by selling them goods and services. An estimated 300,000 people migrated to the West between 1849 and 1855: an expansion that led to California being declared America’s 31st state in 1850. Driving Highway 49, named in honour of the “49ers” who arrived in 1849 to seek their fortunes, brings California’s Gold Rush heritage to life, with preserved boom towns like Nevada City, historic mines – such as Grass Valley’s Empire Mine State Historic Park – and gold panning at living-history museums including Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park, each stop surrounded by some of the most stunning landscapes in the US.
»
Opposite page: Half Dome from Glacier Point Road in Yosemite National Park.
Blooming with wildflowers in spring, basking under cobalt skies in summer, ablaze with fall colours in autumn, and blanketed by pristine snow in winter, the Sierra Nevada’s natural treasures are more than a match for its metallic merits. Bookended by the dazzling alpine wilderness of Lake Tahoe and Yosemite National Park, the 49 – or Gold Chain Highway – celebrated its 100year anniversary in 2019, and is one of America’s iconic road trips.
I may not be road-tripping in a DeLorean, but Highway 49 has me time travelling to a bygone era. At Railtown 1897 State Historic Park in Jamestown, I’m transported to the Golden Age of Steam by the park’s 19 gleaming vintage trains dating from 1862, including the Sierra No. 3 locomotive, star of Back to the Future III and Western classics like High Noon
Considered the Gateway to the Mother Lode, Jamestown grew after gold was discovered in a nearby creek, and several buildings on Main Street hail from its Gold-Rush heyday, including the 1859 Historic National Hotel, one of the state’s oldest continuously operated inns. Preserved as a Historic Landmark, Jamestown continues to thrive, with restaurants, breweries and tasting rooms, including Arthur Michael Vineyard & Winery, showcasing California’s liquid
These flakes of yellow metal sparked the greatest mass movement of people in the Western Hemisphere
assets: golden whites and ruby reds, crafted from grapes ripened beneath the Sierra sun.
Columbia was once a thriving Gold Rush town of 30,000 people and, while the prospectors have mainly moved on, Columbia State Historic Park allows visitors to experience life in the 1850s, with hotels, saloons and stores staffed by characters straight out of Little House on the Prairie On Main Street, where families wait to board a stagecoach for a spin around town, the old bank, boardwalks and horse-hitching rails prompt a
flames (just like Jesse James).
Across the street, a man in boots and braces leans outside the Columbia Mercantile, sporting the oversized, snow-white sideburns usually reserved for supermarket Santas. “They’ve got ice-cold sarsaparilla inside. Reckon you two gunslingers could use some,” he drawls, before moseying on down the street, leaving us to sink our drinks as the stagecoach rolls by.
While the Gold Rush brought enormous wealth for some, many migrants experienced racism or fell victim to harsh, unsanitary living conditions. Now a ghost town, Highway 49’s Chinese Camp holds the memories of the 5,000 workers who laboured tirelessly for little reward. For California’s Native American people, who had inhabited the Sierra Nevada for thousands of years, the rush for gold saw them driven from their ancestral lands, and devastated by discrimination, violence and disease. In the 1840s, the Indigenous population was estimated to be 150,000; by 1870, fewer than 50,000 remained.
The Gold Rush also impacted California’s natural environment as forests were felled for lumber that was used to build the boom towns. Rivers became
polluted with chemicals used in the mining process, and the industrial-scale operations that replaced traditional gold panning left a toxic legacy, which conservationists continue to battle today. But rising from the frenzy of destruction, a golden opportunity and what is now considered “America’s Best Idea” emerged. The plundering of California’s forests prompted early environmentalists including Galen Clark and John Muir to call for the preservation of the state’s wilderness. In 1864, while the nation was divided by Civil War, President Abraham Lincoln signed the groundbreaking Yosemite Grant to protect the Yosemite Valley and Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, ensuring the land “be held for public use, resort, and recreation… inalienable for all time". This pivotal
Remote backcountry trails offer the chance to breathe deep
moment gave birth to the national park concept, which has since been replicated throughout America and the world.
Designated a national park in 1890 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984, Yosemite is Highway 49’s glittering prize, and one of the most spectacular wildernesses on Earth. The park’s thundering waterfalls and towering peaks are legendary, with Bridalveil Fall, Half Dome and El Capitan – the world’s largest granite monolith – framing the Elysian beauty of Yosemite Valley, and remote backcountry trails offering the chance to breathe deep in an Eden roamed by mule deer and black bears.
“For many of the 49ers, the wilderness was something that was in the way and needed to be tamed,” says national park ranger Scott Gediman as we hike through Yosemite’s Mariposa Grove, home to more than 500 giant sequoias – some of the world’s largest trees.
“Mining and logging companies had their eyes on the valley, driven by the ‘Manifest Destiny’ belief that it was the settlers’ divine right to exploit Earth’s natural resources. We’re blessed it’s still here.”
Spanish explorer Christopher Columbus famously said, "Gold is a treasure, and he who possesses it does all he wishes to in this world”. With America’s wilderness once more under threat from those who crave riches at any cost, the mountains, forests and rivers of the Sierra Nevada remind us all to treasure the things that are truly gold.
GETTING THERE Fresno-Yosemite International, San Francisco International, Sacramento International, San José International, Reno/Tahoe International and Oakland International airports all act as gateways to Gold Country.
GETTING AROUND Touring Gold Country is easiest in a self-drive vehicle (car rental is available at all airports). Cycling is another exciting way to explore, with bike rentals available in Yosemite Valley, alongside electric scooters, pushchairs and wheelchairs. America As You Like It (americaasyoulikeit.com) offers a ten-night California Gold Country and Yosemite trip.
BEST TIME TO GO In the cooler months of spring (April to June), the wildflowers light up the meadows and the waterfalls are in full flow after the ice melts. Autumn (October to November) offers mild temperatures and the flamboyant colours of fall.
W HERE TO EAT You’ll find endless quality places to wine and dine in Gold Country, from casual options like the 1850 Restaurant & Brewery ( 1850restaurant.com in Mariposa, to Oakhurst’s flagship winery, Idle Hour Winery & Kitchen ( idlehourwinery.com).
W HERE TO STAY Yosemite View Lodge ( stayyosemiteviewlodge.com in Mariposa County is the closest hotel to Yosemite National Park’s West Entrance and a friendly family-run lodge. Rush Creek Spa & Lodge ( rushcreeklodge.com) is a stylish resort at the Highway 120 West Entrance to Yosemite National Park that reflects the wild beauty of the region.
FURTHER INFORMATION visitgoldcountry.com nps.gov/yose
must-visit
30 California’s gateway cities
neighbourhoods in
Los Angeles, San Francisco and San Diego – you might think you know California’s best-connected destinations, but there’s far more to explore than you might imagine. Take a detour off the Hollywood Walk of Fame and you’ll discover everything from the best local restaurants to secret surf spots and hidden cultural hubs. Even in the same city, you’ll find no two neighbourhoods are alike.
Take our advice: you’re going to need to add a few extra nights to explore them properly.
Los Angeles
1
IN BEVERLY HILLS YOU CAN FIND ONE OF LOS ANGELES' LAST REMAINING CITRUS GROVES. TUCKED BET W EEN MULTIMILLION-DOLLAR MANSIONS, FRANKLIN CANYON ORANGE GROVE HARKS BACK TO SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA'S RICH CITRUS HERITAGE. TODAY, VOLUNTEERS HARVEST ITS ORANGES TO SUPPORT FAMILIES FACING FOOD INSECURITY.
Venice
Quirky, off-beat and a little bit punk, Venice is a far cry from what local architect, Abbot Kinney, envisioned in 1905, but its stately canals and Italianate architecture remain. Perfectly imperfect, Ocean Front Walk is the second most visited destination in Southern California for a reason: top-tier people watching. Take it all in at the beachfront skate parks, bike path and Muscle Beach gym.
Hollywood Vinyl District
2
Once home to legendary recording studios, music labels and record stores, the area between Hollywood and Sunset boulevards and Gower Street and Schrader Boulevard has been reborn as the Hollywood Vinyl District. Flick through the vast stock of vinyl at Amoeba Music, and dine at Grandmaster Recorders, a former studio where Stevie Wonder and David Bowie laid down tracks.
Frogtown
Quirky, small and somewhat isolated, Frogtown is otherwise known as the Elysian Valley –but where’s the fun in that? A neighbourhood wedged between the freeway and the water, nature abounds by the only section of the inner-city LA River that doesn’t have a concrete bottom. A great spot to bike or kayak in summer, Frogtown is also packed with much-hyped places to eat. 3
5
West Hollywood
West Hollywood – WeHo to its friends
– is as close to the hills as you can get without a steep climb. West of Hollywood and east of Beverly Hills, it’s of course a hot spot for celeb spotting. But if you want to visit for the nightlife: think Sunset Strip, gay bars on Santa Monica Boulevard and stand-up gigs at the legendary Comedy Store.
Koreatown
Are you a foodie on a budget? With one of the largest concentrations of 24-hour businesses in the US, Koreatown comes alive at night with the thump of nightclub bass lines and the sizzle of Korean barbecue – some of the best-value food in LA. You may not have the stage presence of a K-Pop star, but karaoke is essential.
4
Highland Park
Old LA lives. When the city’s population boomed in the 1960s, eight of its historic buildings were saved from the wrecking ball and re-homed at the Heritage Square Museum. Visit the colourful Victorian homes then head to the boulderconstructed Lummis Castle. Built from LA River rocks by eccentric Angeleno, Charles Lummis, it’s an ode to Southwest history. Finally, sip a rare soda at Galco’s Soda Pop Shop: family owned and operated for over 100 years.
Arts District
Beverly Hills
7
Downtown LA’s trendiest neighbourhood is a former industrial zone turned bougie hub of swanky creativity. When Soho House moves in, you know it’s hip. Besides street art and galleries in former factories, you’ll find some of LA’s best restaurants: from the two-Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant, Hayato, to the light-festooned rooftop of Mexican restaurant Cha Cha Chá.
8
Don’t believe the movies. Yes, the famous 90210 neighbourhood is home to countless celebrities, but – from the botanical gardens of the Greystone Mansion to the boutiques of Rodeo Drive – it’s all very genteel. Sip a poolside cocktail at some of its most iconic hotels, from the Beverly Hills Hotel to Pretty Woman haunt, the Beverly Wiltshire. OK, believe the movies a little.
9
Santa Monica
No visit to LA is complete without a walk on Santa Monica pier. The red glow of the sunset over the Pacific draws the crowds, as the bulbs of the giant Ferris wheel blink a carnival of colours. Santa Monica marks the start – or end depending on your point of view – of the classic Route 66. Hire that red convertible. Do it.
Echo Park
Go for a ballgame at Dodger Stadium –home of the LA Dodgers – stay for the dive bars, a swan-shaped boat ride on the lake and a bite to eat. Step back in time on Carroll Avenue, one of LA's oldest neighbourhoods, lined with Victorian-style houses. Then take a wildflower walk in the park. Bliss.
SAN FRANCISCO'S TELEGRAPH HILL IS HOME TO A FLOCK OF W ILD PARROTS, BELIEVED TO HAVE DESCENDED FROM ESCAPED PETS. THESE VIBRANT BIRDS, KNO W N AS "THE PARROTS OF TELEGRAPH HILL", HAVE BECOME A LOCAL ICON, THRIVING IN THE URBAN ENVIRONMENT AND DELIGHTING RESIDENTS AND VISITORS ALIKE.
Haight Ashbury
Go in search of 1960s' flower power on the streets where it bloomed most dazzlingly. Today, the brightly painted Victorian houses are home to vintage and vinyl shops, tattoo parlours, dive bars and everything in between.
Keep it rock with a visit to the Grateful Dead house at 710 Ashbury Street.
Francisco
Bayview
Tucked away in the southeastern corner of the city, Bayview claims to be the sunniest neighbourhood in San Francisco. Home to the SF African American Arts & Cultural District, it’s a hub of Black history and culture. Look out for events, from block parties to mural unveilings, along the 3rd Street business corridor.
Treasure Island
There are no pirates. There might be gold. Once a naval hub, the area is undergoing something of a rejuvenation with a new ‘sustainable’ community being built. In the meantime, drink some wine from the eponymous winery –as well as some of the best views of the city.
SoMa
North Beach
Long a home to the city’s Italian community, North Beach is where the east of Washington Square climbs Telegraph Hill to the Coit Tower. Home of the Beat scene, writers such as Kerouac, Ginsberg, and Gary Snyder frequented these streets in the 1950s. Head to the Beat Museum to find out more.
The ebb and flow of progress has shaped the streets of SoMa. Once distinctly industrial, it’s now home to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art –one of the largest galleries of modern and contemporary art in the USA. Take in a ballgame at the waterfront AT&T stadium, then seek out some food from the area’s Filipino community.
Richmond
The Presidio – a 2.8-square-mile former military base – looks out across San Francisco’s most famous landmark. This northwest corner of town is the southern anchor of the Golden Gate Bridge, and makes a great vantage point. Seek out the giant Camera Obscura in Lands End: installed in 1946, it’s still working today.
Chinatown
Though many major cities have a Chinatown, San Fran’s is one of the oldest in the US, established in 1848. It’s arguably one of the most vibrant, too. Stroll past pagoda-style buildings under street lanterns, and stop at the Chinese Historical Society of America Museum to hear a story of resilience.
The Mission
Follow the vivid street art to top cocktail bars and trending restaurants. Over 500 murals depict the history and culture of San Fran and beyond, taking over whole buildings. Balmy Alley is a hotspot, with over 30 paintings to ponder.
Fisherman's Wharf
Have you even been to San Francisco if you’ve not been to Fisherman's Wharf? Visitors flock to the area’s fish restaurants and piers for a taste of the Bay. Pier 39 might be the most famous spot; watch the boats ferry back and forth to Alcatraz as the adorable (but vocal) colony of sea lions go about their day.
Dogpatch
Once a shipbuilding hub, this blossoming bayside area has been claimed by the city’s youngest generation of artists, designers, and musicians as the ‘it’ place to be. Accordingly, expect indie shops, galleries galore and waterfront parks.
SAN DIEGO’S RESIDENTIAL MISSION HILLS NEIGHBOURHOOD IS HOME TO EL INDIO, A RESTAURANT CREDITED W ITH INVENTING TAQUITOS (ROLLED TACOS) IN 1940 . THIS CULINARY INNOVATION HAS SINCE BECOME A BELOVED MEXICAN-AMERICAN DISH ACROSS THE USA.
San Diego
Balboa Park
This staggering sprawl of 16 museums, arts venues and performance spaces is set among 1,200 acres of elaborate gardens, reflecting pools and Spanish-Renaissance architecture, built for the 1915–16 Panama-California Exposition. Visit on a Sunday to hear a live concert on the largest outdoor organ in the world. Opened in 2021, marvel at the Comic-Con Museum: a year-round celebration of the famous annual comic convention.
Pacific Beach
Young, hip and surfy, this beachside neighbourhood doesn’t take itself too seriously. Residents and visitors alike head to the boardwalk, which works its way over three miles along the coast to Mission Beach. Try a spot of surfing: the soft, steady breaks here are ideal for beginners.
Coronado
Located on a peninsula between the Pacific Ocean and San Diego Bay, Coronado feels entirely separate from the city. The beaches of the 13.5-square-mile island, with their white sand and calm waters, are consistently voted some of the best in the US. The slightly bonkers Victorian architecture of the turreted Hotel del Coronado looms over the beach like a giant witch’s hat. Looks familiar? It was the setting for the Marilyn Monroe classic, Some Like It Hot
La Jolla
La Jolla retains its old Hollywood glamour. Dramatic cliffs, and the sweep of a sandy beach below don’t overshadow the historic hotels atop them. La Valencia and The Grande Colonial Hotel became summer retreats for early stars of the silver screen, from Charlton Heston to Zsa Zsa Gabor. Sip a cocktail in style, then visit the resident colonies of wild seals and sea lions.
Barrio Logan
The heartland of San Diego’s Mexican-American community is undoubtedly Barrio Logan. Explore the bold, bright murals under the freeway in Chicano Park. Depicting images of protest, history and Chicano culture, the beautiful works on towering pylons make up the largest collection of outdoor murals in the United States.
Little Italy
As you might hope, San Diego’s Little Italy is a foodie hangout. Wedged between the airport and the Gaslamp Quarter, the coastal neighbourhood was once home to San Diego's tuna fishing industry. Today, it’s the place to find a pretty patio, an urban winery or two, and more than a few brewpubs. Head to India Street for traditional cuisine from Southern and Northern Italy.
Ocean Beach Quirky, casual and as endearingly scruffy as your favourite dive bar, Ocean Beach has character. Away from the main tourist throngs, this is a locals' hangout, known for its pier, dog beach, farmers market and its eclectic mix of craft breweries, sticky-floored pubs, independent shops and a distinctly hippie feel.
South Park & North Park
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Hillcrest
Follow the rainbow flag along University Avenue to Hillcrest, home to San Diego’s LGBTQ+ community. Stop for a pint at the Hillcrest Brewing Company, which describes itself as ‘the first gay brewery in the world’. Cheers to that.
Gaslamp Quarter
Covering 16 blocks of downtown, the Gaslamp Quarter’s blend of frilly but stern Victorian architecture is San Diego’s historic heart. Now home to an entertainment hub, it’s an easy one-stop district for shopping, nightclubs, hotels, restaurants, and festivals including Mardi Gras.
The tree-lined low-rise streets of trendy South Park are home to over 70 independent businesses, from cocktail bars and coffee shops to vintage stores, health food shops, boutique B&Bs and yoga studios. Grab an ethically sourced coffee and walk Juniper Canyon to neighbouring North Park for its plethora of craft breweries.
Discover California’s Central Valley, where distinct landscapes host some of America’s best food experiences
“Yolo County is always in season, no matter what,” says Juan Barajas, wide-eyed and smiling across the table.
“This region is known as the farmto-fork capital of America. Yolo plays such an important role in the variety of products and their availability 365 days a year.”
V a l l e y s and Vineyards
We’re having lunch at his family restaurant, Savory Cafe, in the small town of Woodland, around 20 miles west of California’s state capital, Sacramento.
It’s a rustic place, with exposed brick, a worn American flag hanging down and some bizarre light fixtures dangling from metallic teapots. Woodland sits within Yolo County, one of the most fertile corners of the Central Valley and the breadbasket of California, if not America.
His positive outlook (hands often
gesticulating) and lilting MexicanAmerican accent make Juan an engaging character, and he loves talking about what food means to him.
“That conduit with food has always opened so many doors,” he says. “With food we’ve always been able to express our cultural background”
Juan is deeply involved in the Slow Food movement, an organisation focusing on healthy produce, fair food and waste prevention. Indeed, the tender smoked salmon I’m eating is seasoned in the skin of a beetroot that had been part of my salad starter. But it’s the sheer
This page: Trees form a tunnel through a fruit orchard in Yolo County.
Opposite page: A field full of sunflowers in Yolo County. »
Yolo evokes Steinbeck when the wind whips across single-track roads and flat farmland extends to the horizon
variety of food that’s most bewildering. Just that morning, I was shown around The HIVE, one of California’s only mead and honey tasting rooms, which stocks 31 varieties of honey.
A road trip around this heartland is perhaps unconventional, with California’s long coastline being the state’s most seductive draw, but the Central Valley is an essential part of California’s story. Stretching north of Sacramento down to Bakersfield and hemmed in by the Sierra Nevada and California Coast mountains, the region’s Mediterranean climate receives 300 days of sunshine annually and the 25-degree swing in temperatures between day and night is ideal for plants. The valley is also home to the world’s largest patch of Class 1 soil, thus fruit, vegetable and nut production is its premium.
In the mid-19th century, this area was famous for the Gold Rush. These days, its currency is food.
My drive takes me out from the melee of the Bay Area to Winters, a compact town of barely 8,000 that punches well above its weight gastronomically. Surrounded
by vineyards and orchards, Winters has some sublime restaurants, cafés, bistros and wine bars lining the intersection of Railroad Avenue and Main Street.
“We are really lucky,” says Corinne Martinez, co-owner of Berryessa Gap Vineyards, over fresh salads at Preserve restaurant. “We have amazing food in this town. This place is great, and there’s The Buckhorn, Ficelle, Putah Creek Cafe, Carboni’s.”
All of the places Martinez lists are within a two-minute walk of each other, including her own tasting room where I’ll soon be sampling their quality Spanish varietals like Tempranillo and Verdejo.
“Compared to surrounding communities, Winters is known for farm-to-table, and people come from all of those areas to eat here,” says Lynda Hines, who’s with us. “And also to experience Winters because it’s special and has charm.”
Hynes runs Yolo365 Tours, a series of curated gastronomic tours – driven in golf carts – that follow wine and beer trails and offer an in-depth production tour of local wineries. But whether travelling by car or cart, you won’t go hungry here.
Driving south, navigate quiet backroads where rising green hills are an undulating canvas of virgin vineyards.
Fan-like palms, tall cypress trees and rolling olive groves give Yolo an almost Tuscan appearance at times, while at others it evokes Steinbeck when the wind whips across single-track roads and flat farmland extends to the horizon. I bypass Sacramento and take State Route 99 south to Lodi, a city once known as the home of A&W Root Beer that has evolved into a wine haven, with 85 wineries within the surrounding area.
This spread, clockwise from bottom left: Farmland in the Central Valley; Paso Robles wine country; Buckhorn corner at Christmas. »
Central Valley receives 300 days of sunshine annually and the 25-degree swing in temperatures between day and night is ideal for plants
The charm of Lodi’s historic downtown is occasionally pierced by the cacophonous horns of passing freight trains, but it’s a pleasant place to walk, with a smorgasbord of wine bars, cheese shops and coffee joints lining its streets. Wine is unsurprisingly the calling here, with September’s Lodi Grape Festival one of the year’s highlights, while juicy Zinfandels permeate drinks menus (over 40% of California’s yearly production comes from Lodi).
But it’s the combination of the high-end and the homely that find most intriguing.
A short, ten-minute drive from Lodi is Spenker Family Winery, run by Chuck and Bettyann and their daughters Sarah and
Kate. But this place is about more than just wine.
A gravel path reveals an old red barn and farmhouse with vineyards spanning 60 acres, but the walk takes me past a slightly chaotic goat pen surrounded by parents and children cooing over the animals.
“The girls had gone to college and we were thinking about retiring,” Bettyann tells me over a delicious goats’-cheese board on a sunny Saturday afternoon in their front yard.
“They came home a few years later and said we should start a creamery so we can sell wine and cheese, because nobody else was doing that. So we got licensed for the creamery in 2019, got some dairy goats and grew the cheese to go with the wine.”
Cars constantly arrive and leave, and when families are finished taking photos with the goats, they’re straight into the gift store and tasting room. It’s an impressive operation, yet there’s nothing slick or cynical about it. Just an old-fashioned
farm that hit upon a good idea.
“A lot of people here today are new to the area,” says Bettyann. “They live in Sacramento and they’re excited to know they can always come back.”
I hop back on the 99 for the 40-mile drive south to Modesto, my final stop. It’s here where – for a short period between mid-February and mid-March – one of California’s most distinct scenes forms: 120,000 acres of almond groves burst into brilliant white blooms.
California grows 80 percent of the world’s almonds. But rather than driving aimlessly, it’s best to follow Modesto’s Almond Blossom Cruise. The map offers three routes that dance through majestic white groves, though the drive between Roberts Ferry and Knights Ferry is a particular delight when the road veers north and the landscape takes a stark turn. The emerald farmland suddenly resembles rural Ireland in flashes, with lonely windmills and grazing cows forming a scene that could have looked like this 200 years ago.
3.
THE BEST PLACES TO STAY...
An easy and comfortable jumping-off point for exploring Yolo County. marriott.com
2. Tru
Modern rooms, free breakfasts, a vibrant atmosphere, and scenic wine country views. hilton.com
A spacious base with all of downtown Modesto within a five-minute walk. hilton.com
1. Fairfield Inn & Suites Winters Davis
by Hilton Lodi
DoubleTree by Hilton Modesto
This page, from the top: Zinfandel red-wine grapes in a vineyard in Lodi; Paso Robles wine country; Railroad crossing and arch in Lodi. Opposite page: An orchard of blossom-filled almond trees.
The map also points out stops at some alluring farm stands along the way – don’t miss the honey-glazed almonds from Rodin’s or the famous almond-butter milkshake from Roberts Ferry Gourmet.
Back in neon-flecked Modesto that evening, I drop by Sciabica Olive Oil –the oldest olive oil producer in the US. Started in 1936 by Sicilian native, Nicola Sciabica, the operation is now run by his great-grandson, Jon, who’s pouring me a host of olive oils to try.
“He landed in Connecticut but wasn’t really digging the climate there,” says Sciabica, discussing his greatgrandfather. “So he was looking for something more Mediterranean and everybody encouraged him to move down to California.”
He did just that and, a century later, his brand is still thriving. So pastoral was Modesto that the olive groves have since been engulfed by suburbia.
Sciabica pours me a fragrant basil oil, a wonderful mix called Mediterranean Medley – encompassing oregano, basil, garlic and rosemary – and finally a sharp and spicy jalapeño oil.
“I want you to use a lot of it,” says Sciabica. “My grandfather said olive oil is better than any medication, but it doesn’t work on your shelf. It only works if you put it on your food.”
But like a lot of businesses in the
GETTING THERE San Francisco
International Airport is the most direct place to fly into, but you might want to consider making the short connection to Sacramento by air to avoid the Bay Area traffic.
GETTING AROUND You’ll need to hire a car for this road trip, which you can do in either San Francisco or Sacramento. Sacramento is much closer to Central Valley, but it depends if you want to make San Francisco part of the trip.
BEST TIME TO GO The Central Valley doesn’t attract the same number of visitors as coastal California but it can still get busy in summer and temperatures can soar into
Central Valley, they don’t stand still here. There’s a buzz of chatter and music coming from across the room, with a door leading into a lively bar. Sciabica and long-term employee Craig achieved a dream in 2022 by starting their own brewery, and they pour me a sample of their flagship tropical hazy.
Like their olive oil, it’s bursting with flavour. Not that had any doubts in a region like this.
the high 30s. The shoulder seasons are best, with autumn particularly good as the harvest is taking place.
W HERE TO EAT Set in a leafy Lodi neighbourhood, Towne House (winerose. com/restaurant) is a quality local restaurant that sources some of the region’s finest produce. Galletto Ristorante (galletto.biz) in Modesto is a handsome spot in a former bank that serves up a truly majestic rib-eye steak.
FURTHER INFORMATION visityolo.com visitlodi.com visitmodesto.com
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California’s outdoor nirvana
Take the high road to Lake Tahoe, where California’s great outdoors brings a wealth of spectacular activities
Few American states perform scenery changes quite as abruptly as California. Like a well-seasoned entertainer returning for an encore sporting a sparkling new outfit change, the Golden State likes to keep intrepid explorers on their toes.
My drive to Lake Tahoe from state capital Sacramento follows US Route 50, a serpentine highway paved over the original dirt trails of the so-called “49ers” during the height of California’s Gold Rush in the mid-19th century. Soon after the rustic mining town of Placerville, skinny palms give way to dense forests of tall ponderosa pines while splashes of sugar-white snow on rocky hillsides become immense shining mountains. My head grows a little dizzy at the shift in elevation as we approach 7,000ft, and Echo Summit’s alpine scenery and winding mountain pass are an unnerving prospect. But eventually, with May’s effulgent midday sun beaming down,
the crystalline shimmer of Lake Tahoe reveals itself.
This widescreen corner of California clearly isn’t a place for staying indoors or meandering around town, so to snatch a fuller picture head over to Emerald Bay State Park Lookout to the west of Tahoe’s south shore.
Parking up at a lofty viewpoint, the glassy surface of Emerald Bay is impossibly pretty. watch small boats leave foamy wake trails as they buzz around the craggy Fannette Island. Beyond, the expanse of the lake opens up with serrated mountain peaks silhouetted in the distance. Craning my neck, can see a small wooden pier far down below where people are easing into bobbing kayaks while ospreys swoop
and dive above me.
Stretching 22 miles in length, Lake Tahoe is the largest alpine lake in North America. My base is South Lake Tahoe, a commercial and tourist-friendly strip of cookie-cutter hotels and boisterous bars pierced by the Nevada state line –meaning the rather incongruous sight of several casinos lighting up Lake Tahoe Boulevard as it veers north.
For centuries the domain of the Washoe (Wašišiw) Native Americans, by the late 19th century this area was still little more than a marina and a 12room saloon because accessibility was so limited. It was only when the 1960 Winter Olympics was hosted in nearby Squaw Valley that hotels and casinos began popping up and the roads into
The return ride is promptly curtailed when word is passed from bike to bike that there’s a bear to our left-hand side
Lake Tahoe were ploughed year-round, allowing access to the rest of California for residents and visitors alike.
Bike hire is an easy and pleasant way to access the shore, so find myself saddling up with a group at Anderson’s Bicycle Rentals the next day. The sky is a deep, arctic blue – Tahoe receives 300 days of sunshine annually – and I’m unashamed to admit that I’m a total e-bike convert now, making my glide along the snaking gravel track through Spring Creek even more of a breeze. The sweet scent of pine is a delight as we weave through leggy ponderosa, soundtracked by only the whirr of bicycle chains. We finish the short ride at Baldwin Beach, where the gently lapping waves and cinematic mountain vistas convince me there’s an ASMR
opportunity here somewhere. The return ride is promptly stalled when word is passed from bike to bike that there’s a bear to our left-hand side. With this bombshell news, I grind to a halt. And there it is: a stocky brown bear ambling between trees without even acknowledging us. I fumble with my phone to take a poorly shot video. It’s exhilarating, though I’m reassured that being on two wheels is preferable to two legs in this instance.
Later in the day, I take a walk into Van Sickle Bi-State Park, notable as a particularly good trail for multigenerational travellers thanks to its gradual ascent and handy location near several hotels. As well as some fine lake views, there’s also a very clearly designated state line that makes for the inevitable slew of photo opportunities, with visitors in a variety of poses straddling the painted marker.
For those who like their walks a little
more rigorous, hiking is another huge draw to Tahoe.
“I’m a hiker, so love getting out on the trails,” says Ryn Muat, Communications Manager at Visit Lake Tahoe. “I really love the 2.7-mile trail to Castle Rock. It’s one that has beautiful views early on and it’s pretty high in elevation. It feels otherworldly up there to me.”
My mind is drawn back to the kayakers I saw from the lip of the Emerald Bay viewpoint and Ryn tells me about a special kind of kayaking it’s possible to do here. Run by Clearly Tahoe, in their signature see-through kayaks, their nighttime stargazing tour is an out-of-this-world experience.
“You can be out on the water as the sun is going down, and as it becomes dark you can stargaze,” she explains. “Clearly’s tour guides are really well informed, so on the kayaks they’re giving information about the environment, the wildlife, how the lake was formed and the geology.”
Other more leisurely experiences include dinner cruises with live music aboard the paddle-wheeled MS Dixie, while Lake Tahoe Balloons offer summertime hot-air balloon rides, rising up to 10,000ft with sublime views over the Sierra Mountains and even catching the distant peaks of Yosemite.
SquawValley, the venue for the 1960 Olympic Winter Games, was renamed Palisades Tahoe in 2021. This positive change removed the offensive term “squaw” from its title, thereby promoting respect for Native American communities and fostering inclusivity in the region.
Tahoe is a different animal in winter, when ski season takes over. The most convenient resort for visitors to the south shore is Heavenly, whereas real powder hounds can hit the black runs of Kirkwood Mountain Resort, around a 40-minute drive south.
My time at Tahoe ends amid the staccato bleeps and buzzers of Harrah’s Casino, where its gaudy neon signs and wall-to-wall slot machines remind you that the night is as much a part of the day over here. My idle button bashing secures a cash-out of $24.04. It’s not much, but it’ll pay for a couple of drinks.
If you’re lucky enough to see this corner of California, hit the outdoors first and earn the right to let your hair down a little in the evening, as few American canvasses are as majestic as that of Lake Tahoe.
GETTING THERE San Francisco is the nearest international airport. From there, it’s around three hours by car. We recommend spending a night in San Francisco first or splitting up the journey by stopping in Sacramento on the way.
GETTING AROUND Car hire is the best way of getting around. Bus tours of the lake can be booked too (see visitlaketahoe.com).
BEST TIME TO GO Seasons are distinct here, so it’s a case of deciding whether you prefer cold- or warm-weather activities. Late May to October is the most accessible time to visit.
W HERE TO EAT The Boathouse on the Pier (tahoebeachretreat.com) is the place for a picturesque meal with a lakeside view. Don’t miss their fine crab sandwiches. For something a little more laid-back, Lake Tahoe AleWorX ( laketahoealeworx.com) in Tahoe Valley serves up excellent wood-fired pizza alongside an extensive selection of craft beer options.
W HERE TO STAY Margaritaville Resort South Lake Tahoe ( margaritavilleresorts.com).
FURTHER INFORMATION visitlaketahoe.com visitcalifornia.com
Previous spread, clockwise from top left: Emerald Bay; Echo Summit; Walking beside Emerald Bay; Kayaking on Emerald Bay. Opposite page, clockwise from top right: A couple enjoys views of Lake Tahoe; Harrahs Harveys Casino; M.S. Dixie on Lake Tahoe. This page: Mountain biking around Lake Tahoe.
Surrounded by golden hills, citrus groves and craggy peaks – SLO offers a mesmerising setting
that Marilyn Monroe and baseball star, Joe DiMaggio reputedly visited for lunch during their honeymoon. Further along Monterey Street, towards downtown, discovered a stretch of cool one-off shops, including JunkGirls, an emporium of upcycled and vintage art, jewellery and homewares; and Phoenix Books where, with its shelves bursting with hardbacks tomes and paperback novels, I lost myself browsing for a good hour.
A couple of blocks away on the wide and shady Higuera Street, the city’s main drag, I ducked down a side street between Garden and Broad streets to discover Bubblegum Alley. Surely SLO’s strangest attraction, the 70ft-long alleyway is plastered with colourful balls of chewed gum.
SLO Slow down for
Not just a pit-stop: the college city of San Luis Obispo is one of California’s most authentic, classic coastal towns
Armed with blankets and popcorn, I got into my hire car. The summer heat of the day had eased. Above me, an inky blue canopy of sky was turning pink at dusk. Reclining in my seat, I tuned in my radio for the movie and settled down.
It was Saturday night at the Sunset Drive-In, which is one of the last movie theatres of its kind in California, and a favourite with families, couples and groups of friends. Looking around, I noticed many of them lounging on comfy makeshift beds in the backs of their trucks – a clue they must be locals.
My night spent watching movies under the stars – and my first time enjoying this quintessential American pastime – was a
highlight of a trip to San Luis Obispo: the definitive, authentic Californian coastal city on the Golden State’s unsung Central Coast. Despite its charm, this college town remains an underrated destination.
Conveniently located halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco on Highway 1, which skirts the Pacific Ocean, most travellers use laid-back SLO (as it’s known locally) as a place to refuel or stretch their legs before heading on to discover the wider SLO region or famous tourist hotspots – like Monterey in Steinbeck country or cute Carmel-by-theSea with its fairytale cottages. Linger here for a couple of days, however, and you’ll discover a welcoming,
walkable city full of cultural surprises. Surrounded by golden hills, vineyards, citrus groves and craggy peaks, it offers a mesmerising setting, and a downtown area lined with cute galleries, unique bars and independent shops.
As a huge fan of motels, a visit to the site of the world’s first on Monterey Street was high on my agenda. Although it’s become dilapidated since it closed in 1991, when it first flung open its Spanishrevival doors in 1925 the Milestone Motel offered a luxurious overnight stay for travellers – it was once so celebrated
In complete contrast, I learned about the city’s rich Spanish heritage during the free, daily guided tour of the nearby 18th-century Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa, perched on the banks of the San Luis Creek that runs through town.
I found my art fix at the San Luis Obispo Museum of Art, with many pieces by Californian artists on display, and also at Just Looking Gallery, filled with more work by local creatives, plus a cool display of vintage-style travel posters featuring Central Coast landmarks in the window.
After a pint at SLO Brew pub, which is a popular spot for beers and live music, my last stop awaited: a trip to the Madonna Inn on the edge of downtown. I’d been fascinated by this hotel for years, and the bright-pink emporium of Swiss mountain chalet-style kitsch, with 110 outlandish themed rooms, didn’t disappoint.
As I rolled out of SLO, the golden hills fading in my rearview mirror, I realised this town isn’t just a stop between cities – it’s a place that lingers like the last scene of a drive-in movie, replaying in my mind long after the credits roll.
GETTING THERE From Los Angeles International Airport, you can fly to San Luis Obispo County Airport. However, it’s better for the environment – and for the stunning views – to travel by rail on either of Amtrak’s daily Coast Starlight or Pacific Surfliner trains from Union Station in Los Angeles.
GETTING AROUND Downtown SLO is easily walkable, but you might want to hire a car or hop in a taxi to get to sights on the edge of town.
BEST TIME TO GO SLO enjoys a warm climate all year round. Expect a little rain in winter, heat in summer and pleasant, mild temperatures in spring and autumn.
FURTHER INFORMATION visitslo.com
spread, clockwise from top left: A bustling food market; A couple walk in the surrounding hills; The Madonna Inn; Bubblegum Alley; Historic Monterey Street.
DID YOU KNOW?
Sacramento is the US farm-to-fork capital, with a lauded festival held each September to celebrate
Plough to From Plate
Sacramento returns to the forefront of California’s restaurant scene, with its local ingredients the stars of the show
It’s happy hour in Sacramento. Here, at the Kimpton Sawyer’s retro-style, mid-century hotel beside the Golden 1 Center – home of the Sacramento Kings basketball team – it’s aptly named golden hour. Sure, the arena is adjacent, but nods must also go to the state and coastal region’s nicknames respectively (The Golden State and The Golden Coast); its wildly fascinating 19th-century Gold Rush history; and its decorated golden state flower: the rusted-orange Californian poppy, often seen dancing in that sweet Cali breeze.
Across the region’s two million acres of agricultural land, crops like almonds, tomatoes, plums, corn and even rice thrive in its climate. And depending on the season, these are likely to be the main components of any dish – both sweet and savoury. It’s no surprise, then, to learn that Sacramento is dubbed America’s farmto-fork capital, with a lauded festival each September held to celebrate this. Indeed, it’s happy hour in Sacramento, but not as you know it. At the hotel’s poolside lounge and restaurant, Revival, cheap cocktails are ditched in favour of light, crisp, locally made white wines, perfect for a slow Sunday afternoon. They pair perfectly with Revival’s locally harvested salad, consisting of super curly kale, crunchy pumpkin seeds, a rainbow
of heirloom tomatoes and the welcome addition of cubed sweet pear and apple, on the golden-hour menu. The wine goes even better paired with their $2 oysters, of which I have many.
With San Francisco just 90 minutes away by car, Sacramento had often struggled to keep hold of its most talented people. Now, rising costs and lack of affordable homes in the Bay Area mean there are many more people relocating to the Sacramento region in search of a better quality of life. In 2023, more people were looking to move to Sacramento than any other US region – this can only benefit homegrown chefs like Dane Blom, an early pioneer of the farm-to-fork movement at his Sacramento restaurant, Grange.
“I try to work with a menu consisting of ingredients from no further than 100 miles away.” says Blom, welcoming me into Grange for dinner the next evening.
“Ultimately, our aim is to take advantage of being in one of the nation’s most productive agricultural areas. It helps that the produce is delicious.”
Having dodged the hordes of Kings and Celtics fans heading for the Golden 1 Center, I take a seat at the marble bar and browse the menu. Dishes like soy-braised pork belly, finished with local scallions and crispy shallots, as well as a beet and citrus salad topped with fried walnuts and pickled apple, act as vehicles for sampling this region’s produce. But, to be honest, so does the rest of the menu.
I opt for the pork belly, so tender it falls apart at the merest of prods, with the
freshness of the local scallions perfectly counteracting the saltiness of the soy. Dessert is a peculiar-sounding olive oil cake made from Californian pistachios, ricotta and, yes, olive oil. The olive oil is probably from Sciabica’s (the USA’s oldest olive oil producer) in Modesto, just over an hour southwest by car. As ask for the bill, I’m tipped off about another restaurant doing brilliant things: Kru. “It’s Sacramento’s best Japanese restaurant,” says one patron, adding that their sushi rice is grown at Rue & Forsman Ranch, an organic rice farm 35 miles north of the city. would clear the next evening’s schedule, but I’m flying home before then. One thing’s for sure though, Sacramento’s dining scene continues to strike gold.
GETTING THERE Sacramento is best accessed by road from San Francisco (1hr30) and by air from Los Angeles (1hr35). There are no direct flights from the UK. Sacramento Valley Station also offers two Amtrak rail services within California, and two long-distance routes.
GETTING AROUND While the city is walkable, there is an inexpensive light rail system that offers good connections around Downtown. Buses operate but are less frequent.
BEST TIME TO GO Visit Sacramento in the spring or autumn for local produce at its best, as well as cooler days and fewer crowds. The city’s famed Farm to Fork Festival takes place in September.
FURTHER INFORMATION visitsacramento.com farmtofork.com
Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Happy hour drinks; Oysters at Revival; A guest takes a dip in the pool; The lobby at the Kimpton Sawyer Hotel.
Hidden Gems on Highway I
The West Coast’s defining road trip – California State Route 1, or Highway 1 – is legendary. Easily one of the most popular drives on the planet, it is famous for precipitous cliffs, redwood forests and glorious Pacific views – but the best bits are often missed. We reveal our favourite places to pull over.
»
Oceanfront restaurants scarcely come better than at Sam’s Chowder House Firepits allow alfresco dining in colder weather but huge windows guarantee superb views regardless. Fresh seafood features daily: expect lobster rolls, lobster spaghetti and local crab. samschowderhouse.com
Downtown, Sacrilege Brewery + Kitchen has a craft beer selection in a relaxed setting, with outdoor and indoor seating. The awardwinning kitchen serves staples with unique twists, reflecting the owners’ ethos of doing things with a difference. facebook.com/ sacrilegebrewerykitchen
For the authentic beach-shack experience, complete with draped fishing nets, head to Barbara’s Fishtrap Open for over 50 years, it’s all about great ocean views and fresh seafood in a beachfront location.
barbarasfishtrap.com
Going all out? The Ritz-Carlton has incredible ocean views, plus a pool, spa and fitness centre. ritzcarlton.com
The six-room Inn at Mavericks offers direct access to the water, and the complimentary in-room basket of treats is restocked daily. Rooms feature oversized tubs and fireplaces. innatmavericks.com
Half Moon Bay Broad, sandy beaches washed by the Pacific and nature trails winding through towering redwoods: 25 miles south of San Francisco, Half Moon Bay's natural attractions are magnificent. There’s also a rich history, with Gold Rush fortune seekers, agricultural communities, Ohlone peoples and Spanish explorers all having made homes here.
Experienced surfers head for Mavericks, where the waves can reach unfathomable heights, but Half Moon Bay Jetty (AKA Surfers’ Beach) is a safer option for beginners. Poplar Beach, calm enough for paddling, is ideal when travelling with kids.
On a whale-watching tour (December to May), you might also spot dolphins and sea lions. Paddleboarding and kayaking are other options – or just admire the views on a coastal walk.
Exploring the city’s architecture is fascinating: it ranges from the Beaux-Arts
Santa Ynez
Wine alongside glorious views: Santa Ynez has more than 150 wineries and a range of complementary cuisines. Located in Santa Barbara County, you’re about 40 minutes from the beach, but there’s enough to occupy you in this inland idyll for more than just a day trip. Aside from tastings, the winery landscape can be enjoyed by way of horse riding, off-road driving, hot-air ballooning or hiking. The area is also the traditional home of the Chumash Indians, and you can learn about their heritage in
style of City Hall and the New Englandstyle of the James Johnston House, to the Gothic intricacies of the 1872 Community United Methodist Church.
More recent draws include the Coastside History Museum, as well as Lemos Farm, which makes for a fun day out with kids.
Popular with both locals and visitors, the annual late October Pumpkin Festival is where art, wine, food and –yes, pumpkins – combine in a vibrant celebration along historic Main Street.
Coast Range brings vintage charm with dark interiors punctuated by portraits of grizzled mariners. Kickstart your day with their popular brunch menu, where highlights include the malted waffle, "steak fretz", and their celebrated Anthony Bourdain Sandwich. coastrange.restaurant
In a repurposed warehouse, Industrial Eats champions locally produced food made with passion. Expect the likes of miso cod and Chinese red pork, or go simple with a sandwich, such as an
Growing conditions lend themselves perfectly to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
a dedicated museum and cultural centre set to open in 2025.
And the wine? Growing conditions lend themselves perfectly to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes: Sunstone Winery and Andrew Murray Vineyards are good places to start. Roblar Winery combines an exceptional food menu with wines from the estate, while Piazza Family Wines offers tastings paired with sweeping views.
Santa Ynez’s craft brewery scene is thriving too. Figueroa Mountain Brewing Co. has won a slew of awards since
its inception in 2010, and the original taproom is located here. Spacious seating areas, craft beer on tap (as well as to go) and gastropub fare are the way to while away a few sunny hours.
oyster po’boy or beef tongue pastrami reuben. There’s also an excellent selection of pizzas. industrialeats.com
Winning a Michelin Star four years running, Bell’s is a French-inspired brasserie that diners rhapsodise about. Try the prix fixe menu (Thursday to Monday, reservations only) for $110pp, excluding drinks and tax. The menu changes constantly, but the steak au poivre is a firm favourite. bellsrestaurant.com
There are 22 thoughtfully designed guest rooms at Hotel Ynez but you’d be forgiven for spending all of your time in the grounds, where hammocks, firepits, oak trees and a heated pool are contained within two acres of gardens. hotelynez.com
Recently refurbished with contemporary features and traditional charm, The Ballard Inn is surrounded by acres of vineyards. With unique vintage finds in each, none of the 15 rooms are the same. ballardinn.com
Previous spread: Aerial view of Bixby Bridge on the Big Sur coastline.
Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Shaun Walsh surfing Mavericks; Half Moon Bay; The Pumpkin Festival parade.
This page: Grapevines at Two Hills Vineyard.
Marina del Rey
Here you're just a 20-minute drive from LAX, but immersed in a waterfront location where recreation and relaxation are far removed from the hubbub of downtown LA.
Although Santa Monica and Venice Beach are close by, there’s access to all of the waterfront attractions you could wish for on the doorstep here, complete with opportunities for paddleboard yoga, kayaking and fishing, as well as sunset-dining or wildlife-spotting cruises.
The area also forms part of the 22-mile Marvin Braude Coastal Bike Trail. Shoppers won’t be disappointed with the retail offerings here: not only is Rodeo Drive within easy reach, but Marina del Rey has its own appeal, with an array of retail outlets (as well as restaurants) at Waterside. Being this close to LA means a slightly slicker experience
than you might find on more remote parts of Highway 1, so expect luxury yachts gliding into the harbour and resort-style accommodation with a family-friendly vibe.
Ventura has loads of seafront activities; stroll down the historical pier for salty air and the sound of the waves
Oysters are almost mandatory in this setting, so head to The Jolly Oyster a trailer in San Buenaventura State Beach. Their commitment to sustainably grown oysters and clams in the shell means that you can bring your own drinks and let nature (and the provided shuckers) do the rest. thejollyoyster.com
Ventura
As a restaurant that’s been family-owned and run for decades, Coni’Seafood has quite a following in Marina del Rey – and rightly so. Serving Nayarit-style seafood, diners get an authentic taste of Mexican cuisine, via tostaditos ceviche, and pescado zarandeado (grilled snook), which is well worth the 30-minute wait. coniseafood.com
Vegans, take note – Marina del Rey has got you covered with Planta Cocina Its interiors and position – right on the boardwalk – are glitzy enough to feel
luxe, and the menu features dishes stuffed full of goodness like vegan sushi, bang bang broccoli and kelp caesar. plantarestaurants.com
Italian-infused flavours are the order of the day at C&O Trattoria where the portion sizes are huge – as the restaurant’s strapline, “People Generally Don’t Leave Here Hungry”, implies. With antipasti such as caprese, and mains like linguini shrimp and slow-roasted short ribs, you may not have room for a spumoni tartufo dessert. candorestaurants.com
Located directly in front of the harbour, the Marina del Rey Hotel is ideally placed for sunset views, as well as being just a stroll from Venice Beach. The on-site SALT Restaurant & Bar, plus the pool, make this one of the area’s slickest hotels. marinadelreyhotel.com
Part of Hilton’s Tapestry Collection, the Jamaica Bay Inn brings a boutique edge to the waterfront, with a private beach and recently refurbished rooms. jamaicabayinn.com
The call of nature is loud in Ventura, with five miles of coastal access, blissful beaches and loads of green, open spaces. Surfers will find waves to suit their skills, whether gentle or thunderous, while kitesurfers dot the sky with colour above C Street. Wildlife cruises run to the nearby marine sanctuary where whales, dolphins and porpoises may be spotted. Alternatively, Ventura has loads of seafront activities, so stroll down the historical pier to get your fix of salty air and the sound of the waves. An annual highlight is summer’s Ventura County Fair, which has been running since 1875
and offers great ocean views from the ferris wheel. Take a walk in Harmon Canyon, where ancient oaks tower above, or in Ventura’s Botanical Gardens, home to around 160 plant species.
History and architecture buffs can get their fix at City Hall, with its stained-glass domes, and at the Albinger Archaeological Museum, which spans 3,500 years of the area’s history. The Dudley House, built in 1892, is open on the first Sunday of each month, and there’s also a handful of historic adobe houses, including Olivas Adobe, which hosts cultural events.
The tiki vibes run strong at the Ven TikiTiki Lounge and Lanai, where Polynesian-inspired food, such as pepper-seared ahi, tacos and coconut shrimp, is complemented by meticulously crafted tiki drinks. ventikiloungeandlanai.com
Housed within its eponymous, historic institution, Bank of Italy Cocktail Trust has an enticing beverage selection, as well as an Italian-inspired menu. bankofitalycocktails.com
Built in 1928, Hotel San Buena features Spanish Revival elements alongside the contemporary features from a recent refurb. The 32 rooms, lush courtyards and ocean views make for a sublime stay. hotelsanbuena.com
With direct ocean access, Cliff House Inn on the Ocean has a private beach, as well as a pool set within verdant gardens. The on-site restaurant, Shoals, has a great selection of local wines and cocktails, plus a menu replete with steaks and seafood. cliffhouseinn.com
Opposite page, from top right: Sea lions and seals resting on a pier at Fisherman Village in Marina del Rey, Boats docked in Marina del Rey.
This page, clockwise from top left: Downtown Ventura, Ventura City Hall, Ventura historic pier.
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