Joyce Gu Workshop Field Book

Observations in the Field

Island Beach State Park

Workshop I Ecology & Built Landscapes Fall 2024

Joyce Gu

CONTENTS 02 12 20

Mt. Holly & Rancocas Nature Center

02

THROUGH ELEVATIONS AND TIME

Wading River - Evans Bridge to Beacer Branch

THE PINE BARREN’S LAZY RIVER

Island Beach State Park & Cattus Island County Park

SOFT SANDS AND BOARDWALKS

01 03

28 36 46 56

Hawk Mountain Sanctuary

06

PEAKS AND ROCK SCRAMBLING

Ringing Rocks County Park

05

SCENTS AND SENSES AT RINGING ROCKS

Nottingham County Park

SLITHERING THROUGH THE SERPENTINE

Houston Meadow

A BRISK AUTUMN HIKE

04 07

ONE

SOFT SANDS AND BOARDWALKS

2

We observed the section line flowing from the ocean to the upper beach, primary dune, and secondary dune. Looking towards the primary and secondary dunes, the density of vegetation increased quickly compared to the upper beach.

We walked over towards a section within the secondary dune community to sit and sketch. Given a short time, it was an exercise in capturing the feeling of the landscape, instead of getting into the weeds of all the details. In the secondary beach area, there were more shrubs and vines, in addition to the plants we had seen previously in the upper beach and primary dune. As we sat, I attempted to portray the soft and straight wind-blown lines of the grasses, add in the woody and twisting branches of the beach plum and other shrubs, and capture the contrast of the greenery against the bright sand. Throughout the session, an adorable sight of three swallows perched vertically in line on a swaying branch.

3

After our sketching session, we continued along the transect through the secondary dunes through the dry and wet thickets and into the maritime forest. Along the way, we picked and ate beach plums and watched the vegetation continue to increase in density and woodiness, as more shrubs and trees began to appear.

Armed with sketchbooks, cameras, and drawing implements, our class set off for our first field trip to the eastern coast of New Jersey, ready for a day at Island Beach State Park and Cattus Island County Park. With a goal of understanding the gradients perpendicular to the shoreline, the trip promised a journey from the Atlantic Ocean to Barnegat Bay where we would be able to observe and visualize the effects of salinity, wind, and soil conditions on the plant communities as we moved along the transect.

Upon arrival at our first destination of the day, Island Beach State Park, we were let loose to beach comb, observing and collecting treasures along the shore. Even on the sand, where vegetation was practically nonexistent, there was a clear evidence of gradient where the ocean’s energy dies as it meets the sand and deposits aquatic plants, shells, and trash.

We then came back as a group to share our findings: blue mussels, razor clams, moon snails, mole crab remains, skate egg casings, and more. It was interesting to see what textures and colors different members of the class were drawn to in their mini collections. Then, we shifted our attentions toward the plant community on the upper beach, looking away from the ocean line.

3

As we walked, we slowly sloped slightly downward, and the thicket and maritime forests displayed wetter conditions where ferns were able to thrive. One interesting point of note through the forested area was that the salt spray from the ocean still has a visible effect on the height of the trees.

We arrived on the other side of the island and looked across Barnegat Bay. The bay is brackish and supports the bay shore plant community, which consists of some plants we saw earlier on the beach but also some new plants.

After lunch, we took another small stroll, this time from the visitor center in the bay area back towards the beach again. The area on the beach was more populated by vehicle traffic, and we were able to observe areas that were roped-off for the purpose of restoring the dunes and discouraging driving in sensitive areas. This brief walk over to the ocean again allowed us to spot some skates in the shallow waves!

Our second location of the day was a short drive away at Cattus Island County Park, about 1.5 miles inland of Barnegat Bay. Interestingly, the entrance was located right next to a large area of strip malls, a setting which fell away quickly and was obscured by forest as we drove deeper into the park.

As we walked into the park along dirt trails, we observed more freshwater species compared to the beach and bay habitats encountered earlier in the day. Due to rising sea levels, the salinization of groundwater is an emerging issue, leaving stands of dead Atlantic White Cedars and Sourgums in a “ghost forest”. These areas are also infiltrated with the invasive Common Reed which are more salt tolerant.

On the boardwalk past the ghost forests, we came into a clearing that displayed the vast salt marsh. It was interesting to see constructed platforms for ospreys as well, with nests perched atop them. On the boardwalk, we sat and performed a blind contour exercise, attempting to trace the feeling of a selected tree through the pen on paper, rather than drawing from a preconceived assumption of what a tree looks like.

Photo (Top): Dead Atlantic White Cedar and Common Reed Photo (Bottom): Salt Marsh 4

Shaking the sand from my socks at the end of the day, I reflected on a beautiful day full of wonder, curiosity, and artistry.

Our trip brought us through transects that truly demonstrated the drastic effects that changing abiotic factors have on vegetation communities. In both locations, the salinity of the water, whether due to salt spray in the air, soil, or groundwater, changed the heights and composition of the plants growing.

The gradient was especially prominent moving from the Atlantic Ocean to Barnegat Bay, changing from the rolling and sparse sand dunes to maritime forest and then back to a more beach-like bay shore community. Through it all, I was able to observe the behaviors of these plants and really try to capture their characteristics in my mind’s eye and subsequently in my sketchbook.

Photo: Sourgum (Nyssa sylvatica) 5

Sea Rocket

Seabeach Amaranth Amaranthus pumilus

Chamaesyce polygonifolia

American Beach Grass

Seaside Goldenrod

Asiatic Sand Sedge

Cakile adentula

Ammophila brevilgulatafolia

6

Solidago sempervirens

Seaside Spurge

Carex kobomugi

7

8

Secondary Dune •

Bitter Panic Grass (Panicum amarum)

•

American Beach Grass (Ammophila brevilgulatafolia)

•

Gray’s Flatsedge (Cyperus grayi)

•

Northern Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica)

•

Beach Plum (Prunus maritima)

9

Common Name : Atlantic White Cedar Scientific Name : Chamaecyparis thyoides Growth Habit : Tree Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: OBL Observed Growing with: Common Reed (Phragmites australis), Sourgum (Nyssa sylvatica) in the “Ghost Forest”

10

Common Name : Common Reed Scientific Name : Phragmites australis Growth Habit : Graminoid Native or Introduced (at this site): Introduced Is it considered invasive (at this site): Yes Wetland Indicator Category: FACW Observed Growing with: Salt marsh species such as Marsh Elder (Iva frutescens), Salt Hay (Spartina patens), Perennial Salt Marsh Aster (Symphyotrichum tenuifolium) and the “Ghost Forest” species such as Atlantic White Cedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides) and Sourgum (Nyssa sylvatica)

11

TWO

THE PINE BARREN’S LAZY RIVER

On a beautiful Thursday morning, we headed on the bus over to Mick’s Canoe and Kayak Rental for an aquatic adventure. In pairs, we spent the day paddling along the river, alternating between being in-sync and smoothly skimming the water, and getting stuck in shallow waters on a gravel bank. However, despite the slow-downs and struggles, we savored every moment of the day, enjoying the cool water and the beautiful light filtering through the trees.

Early in the morning, we began the journey from Penn to our beginning point for the kayaking. Even prior to starting the boat rides, there was much to see along the bus ride as we made our way past blueberry fields through the town of Hammonton, and by the historic Batsto village.

Upon arrival to Mick’s Canoe and Kayak Rental, we filtered off the bus and got our things kayak-ready in wet bags and protective Ziploc baggies. With our life jackets donned, we again boarded little buses that took us and our kayaks over to the Wading River.

Even before we got into the water, the quantity of pitch pines

(Pinus rigida) was apparent lining the shores of the river. At this time of the year, the pitch pines are dotted with pine cones.

After a brief tutorial, we excitedly jumped into our canoes and headed out into the waters. The river was briskly cool, and the notorious color of the “cedar water” was very noticeable. Mick and the others who helped us with the kayaks also explained that the water levels were notably shallow this day, having had little precipitation recently. In this area, as Sally mentioned, there are various demands on the groundwater and aquifer, between the recreation of the boating, the agricultural endeavors, and industrial activities.

As we rowed, we had to find a rhythm. With me in the back of the boat and Emily in front, we had to collaborate to steer the kayak around the perilously shallow areas, low-hanging branches, and fallen logs sticking out of the ground. We did get stuck many times and would have to push ourselves into deeper waters (or sometimes one of us would have to get out and drag the boat out). Eventually, we rounded a bend and got to our midday stopping point for lunch and to observe the setting a little more closely and carefully.

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In the sandy area where we stopped, the gradient across the water was very evident. On one side of the river, right along the water’s edge, the soils are organic-rich and the area is wetter, housing a greater variety of plants. The area is almost swamp or marsh-like, with many grasses such as Wild Rice (Zizania aquatica), Blunt Mannagrass (Glyceria obtusa), and Bayonet Rush (Junucus militaris).

Along the water’s edge there were also various trees such as Atlantic White Cedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides), Trident Red Maple (Acer rubrum var. trilobum), Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua), and shrubs. On the other side of the river, the elevation is much higher and drier, with soils that are sandier and more nutrientpoor. In this area, there were fewer varieties of vegetation, with mostly Pitch Pines in the canopy, Blackjack Oak (Quercus marilandica), Black huckleberry (Gaylussacia baccata), and Lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium pallidum) in the shrub layer. There were also some interesting patterns of lichen around the ground and on trees. Marie even spotted some baby sundew plants (Drosera) close to the ground.

On the beach, we observed and drew the section across the river, capturing the two sides and the elevation change. After a while, it was time to get moving again so we boarded our kayaks and were on our way! Though our arms and shoulders grew tired and sore, we didn’t want the ride to end.

After a wonderful day on the water, surrounded by trees and dappled sunlight and wispy grasses along the banks, I came away with a sense of the Pine Barrens and the behavior of vegetation around the area. Even before we stopped to more deeply examine the ecosystem, it was easy to observe the changing conditions as we kayaked through the forest along the river. This trip provided a groundlevel view into the Pine Barrens that I would have never known from just the readings or our research through various GIS layers – it allowed me to experience the site throughout all of my senses. I would love to come back some day!

Photo (Top): Carnivorous Sundew Plants Photo (Bottom): Kayaking on the Water

14

Common Name : Sourgum Scientific Name : Nyssa sylvatica Growth Habit : Tree Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FAC Observed Growing with: Atlantic White Cedar (Chamaecyprais thyoides), Trident Red Maple (Acer rubrum var. trilobum), Large Cranberry, Wild Rice Observed Growing Conditions: Low and wet - near the river Common Name : Large Cranberry Scientific Name : Vaccinium macrocarpon Growth Habit : Shrub Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: OBL Observed Growing with: Atlantic White Cedar (Chamaecyprais thyoides), Trident Red Maple (Acer rubrum var. trilobum), Sourgum, Wild Rice Observed Growing Conditions: Low and wet - near the river Common Name : Wild Rice Scientific Name : Zizania aquatica Growth Habit : Graminoid Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: OBL Observed Growing with: Atlantic White Cedar (Chamaecyprais thyoides), Trident Red Maple (Acer rubrum var. trilobum), Sourgum, Large Cranberry Observed Growing Conditions: Low and wet - near the river

15

Three-Way Sedge Dulichium arundinaceum

Black Huckleberry Gaylussacia baccata

16

Blunt Mannagrass

Lowbush Bluberry

Blackjack Oak

Pitch Pine

Glyceria obtusa

Quercus marilandica

Vaccinium pallidum

Pinus rigida

17

THREE

THROUGH ELEVATIONS AND TIME

Our field trip this week brought us to two very different sites within the Inner Coastal Plan, showcasing two different types of gradients. At Mt. Holly, we went up from a low to high elevation, looking at a beech-oak forest and examining the differences across the north and south faces of the knoll. At Rancocas Nature Center, we traversed through a sequence of time, from early-stage successional meadows to mature sweetgum forest and the tidal freshwater marsh at the end.

Our first stop of the day was at Mt. Holly, which is a wooded hill surrounded by suburban neighborhoods and a cemetery on one side. We climbed up the hill, stopping to observe various phenomena, such as a tree that had fallen recently and left a visible hole in the canopy, where light was able to get down to the understory and shrub layers.

We made our way up to the highest elevation on the hill and took some time to wander around and observe the vegetation layers and species on the two sides of the slope. The northern side was damper and cooler, while the southern side was warmer and drier.

We also discussed the geologic makeup of the knoll: the Kirkwood formation and also the Phalanx series of soils. We were able to observe pieces of the ironstone in the soil as well. As we discussed the site, we also took a look at a soil core and mapped the soil horizons as it went from Oi, to Oe, to A, and then to B.

Some notable plants that we saw around the mountain were American Beech (Fagus grandifolia), and various oak trees including White Oak (Quercus alba) in the canopy layer, smaller Sourgums (Nyssa sylvatica) and Sassafras (Sassafras albidum) in the subcanopy, and various young to sapling trees in the shrub and herbaceous layers. We were able to sit for a while to draw some trees, and then headed back down the mountain.

Rancocas Nature Center After a lunch break, we headed into the Rancocas Nature Center, where we first encountered a meadow, where former farm operations took place. The field is kept in an early successional phase with shorter trees and shrubs, and many grasses and wildflowers.

In full glory were the Canada goldenrods (Solidago canadensis) and some late-flowering thoroughwort (Eupatorium serotinum). Some of the taller species included Autumn olive (Eleagnus umbellate), persimmon (Diospyros virginiana), and Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua). In one location we observed a lower, wetter area that held one lone Sycamore tree (Platanus occidentalis) and Reed Canarygrass (Phalaris arundinacea).

From the meadow, we walked through the sweetgum successional forest where we saw less of the wildflowers and a transition into taller sweetgums and more of an herbaceous layer of Japanese stiltgrass (Microstegium vimineum).

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The next step of the sequence was the conifer plantation, which was established in 1957. It was an amazing and beautiful transition from the sweetgum successional forest to these towering and regularly-spaced White Pine (Pinus strobus) and Norway Spruce (Picea abies) trees. In this area there was much less of an understory, with only some smaller deciduous trees like sweetgum, some shrubs such as Wineberry (Rubus phonicolasius), and Japanese stiltgrass and Marginal Woodferns (Dryopeteris marginalis). We also took some time to look up and draw the contrast between the dark leaves and the bright sky from below. It was an interesting exercise, though difficult (both in observing the negative space forms and because I was getting eaten by mosquitoes) After the conifer plantation, we walked through the mature sweetgum forest, where we could see the sweetgums at heights of about 80 feet. In this area, more subcanopy emerged again, featuring American holly (Ilex opaca), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), and Sourgums. Again, Japanese stiltgrass blanketed the lowest ground layer.

We began to descend a small slope where we encountered bluff forest and then floodplain forest, moving closer to the freshwater marsh. These area got wetter and supported a great diversity of trees and plants. We eventually squelched through some wet marshy soils to get an open view of the tidal waters and the beautiful yellow Showy Bur Marigolds (Bidens laevis) among the Spatterdock (Nuphar lutea) and Wild Rice (Zizania aquatica).

This trip, though a tiring day of hiking, showed us an immense variety of plant communities. Along the way, though not mentioned too much in my above report, we were able to observe the underlying soil horizons and colors, with the greener glauconite and the redder soils of the Kirkwood ironstone area. All the different ecological elements came together to tell the story across successional time and elevation in the two sites that were visited.

Photo (Top): Walking through the Pine Plantation Photo (Bottom): Observing the Soils 22

Common Name : Canada Goldenrod Scientific Name : Solidago canadensis Growth Habit : Forb/herb Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua), Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana), Orchard Grass (Dactylis glomerata) Observed Growing Conditions: Meadow/old field area Common Name : Persimmon Scientific Name : Diospyros virginiana Growth Habit : Tree Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FAC Observed Growing with: Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua), Orchard Grass (Dactylis glomerata), Canada Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis) Observed Growing Conditions: Meadow/old field area Common Name : Orchard Grass Scientific Name : Dactylis glomerata Growth Habit : Graminoid Native or Introduced (at this site): Introduced Is it considered invasive (at this site): Yes Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua), Canada Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis), Persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) Observed Growing Conditions: Meadow/old field area

23

Reed Canarygrass

Sassafras

Liquidambar styraciflua

Sassafras albidum

Japanese Stiltgrass

White Pine

Showy Bur Marigold

Microstegium vimineum

24

Sweetgum

Phalaris arundinacea

Pinus strobus

Bidens laevis

25

Mt. Holly Tree Sketch

26

FOUR

A BRISK AUTUMN HIKE

On October 10th, we headed out early, on a morning that felt like Autumn was finally here. Bundled up in layers, we drove over to Houston Meadow, which was created through the Houston Meadow Reclamation Project by Philadelphia’s Parks and Recreation. The site is west of Wissahickon Valley Park, and a bit north of the site that our class has been working on during Studio. The meadow project’s goal was to enlarge and enhance the area for bird and pollinator use, and many native species were planted initially to promote that goal. During the short trip, we walked through the meadow area into a wooded ravine forest, and looped back to emerge through the meadows once again at the end.

We set out and entered the site through the Houston Playground, finding ourselves right in the middle of the meadow.

In this area, we were able to observe the sign that detailed the purpose of the restoration project, the process, and the benefits that came out of it.

Immediately, we were struck by the sheer number of different plants that we were seeing in the meadow – a variety of grasses, shrubs, and trees. Along the trail, we were mostly surrounded by plants nearer to the ground, though there were clusters of trees further and scattered throughout the meadow.

The trees were similar to the ones that we have seen in the Wissahickon, such as Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Sassafras (Sassafras albidum), Pin Oak (Quercus palustris), and American Holly (Ilex opaca). There were also some species that we haven’t seen as much as such as Grey Birch (Betula populifolia), which had a very distinctive trunk and catkins.

There was great diversity in the herbaceous layer, including tall grasses. It was especially interesting to look at the different types of vegetation shapes and the shadows that they made in the direct sunlight against the paper. For example, we saw Orchard Grass (Dactylis glomerata), Little Bluestem (Andropogon scoparius), Broomsedge (Adnropogon virginicus), and Purpletop (Tridens flavus). Further along through the meadow, we also encountered a great number of foxtails (Setaria) that were catching the light beautifully.

We started to move out of the meadow area and into the forested ravine, where we started to see some more of the Wissahickon formation schist and quartzite. In the forested area, there was much more in the canopy and subcanopy layer compared to in the meadows where the shrub and herbaceous layers were much more prevalent.

29

The trees included various types of oaks like White Oak (Quercus alba) and Red Oak (Quercus rubra) with the “ski-track” bark, very large American Beech trees (Fagus grandifolia), Tulip trees (Liriodendron tulipifera), and Sour gums (Nyssa sylvatica), which were already starting to change with brilliant fall colors.

In the lower forest layers, we saw a lot of Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus) with small red fruits and Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), as well as ferns such as Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) and New York fern (Thelypteris noveboracensis). Walking along, we noticed that the trail was pretty dry in many areas due to the lower precipitation levels recently, and that shiny dust due to the mica content was being kicked up into the air. We encountered many others enjoying the trails as well.

When we arrived at the North Meadow area, with a transition between the forest and meadows again, we stopped to sketch for a little bit, looking to hone the skills we have practiced before. The tree I was sketching I believe was a Black Locust, so I was trying to capture the feeling of the small leaflets and how the tree caught the sunlight.

After the sketching, we walked along the loop to get back to the Houston Playground, where we exited the site. It was a lovely walk and we got to see a variety of different elevations to the sides of the path as we looked down the ravine.

As we continue to move our way through the different regions of Greater Philadelphia from the Coastal Plain through to the Great Valley area, we have reached the boundary between the Coastal Plain and the Piedmont with the Wissahickon area, including Houston Meadow. During this trip, we were familiar with the wooded characteristics of the Wissahickon Valley Park, but were able to contrast the forest with the established meadows. The maintained early successional state of Houston Meadow is favorable for many bird and pollinator species, allowing them for a specific habitat type within the wooded areas. The trip was short and sweet, and was a great introduction into fall field trips and what’s to come in the Piedmont!

Photo (Top): Silver Pine Tree Photo (Bottom): Catkin 30

Common Name : Common Mullein Scientific Name : Verbascum thapsus Growth Habit : Forb/herb Native or Introduced (at this site): Introduced Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Chinese Silver Grass (Miscanthus sinensis), Purpletop (Tridens flavus), Orchard Grass, Broomsedge, Little Bluestem Observed Growing Conditions: Meadow Common Name : Chinese Silver Grass Scientific Name : Miscanthus sinensis Growth Habit : Graminoid Native or Introduced (at this site): Introduced Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Common Mullein (Verbascum thapsus), Purpletop (Tridens flavus), Orchard Grass, Broomsedge, Little Bluestem Observed Growing Conditions: Meadow Common Name : Purpletop Scientific Name : Tridens flavus Growth Habit : Graminoid Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Common Muellin (Verbascum thapsus), Chinese Silver Grass (Miscanthus sinensis), Orchard Grass, Broomsedge, Little bluestem Observed Growing Conditions: Meadow

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Little Bluestem

Black Locust

Andropogon scoparius

Robinia pseudoacacia

Red Maple

American Holly

Acer rubrum

Ilex opaca

Foxtail

Alopecurus

American Beech Fagus grandifolia

33

Houston Meadow Tree Sketch

34

FIVE

SLITHERING THROUGH THE SERPENTINE

Bundled up in warm layers, we headed out on the trusty school bus to Nottingham County Park in Chester County, PA. A very unique site, Nottingham County Park sits atop a large outcrop of Serpentine stone, which allows for the observation of interesting serpentine plant communities. Throughout our hike, we were able to notice the change across the different soil series: Manor and Chrome. The long walk and the changes in elevation and scenery across the park enhanced our understanding of how plants grow after certain disturbance events or in response to differing thicknesses of soil.

Our day started off through the meadows and mowed areas, as we observed many grass species interspersed with trees. The meadow had beautiful golden hues of fall, with grasses such as Big Bluestem (Andropogon gerardii), Indiangrass (Sorghastrum nutans), and Broomsedge (Andropogon virginicus). Some of the trees we observed were Post Oak (Quercus stellata), White Oak (Quercus alba), and Sassafras (Sassafras albidum).

We then continued down by McPherson Pond, and followed Black Run creek, named for the dark color of the water due to the chromite processing that happened along it. There were structures still left from the historic chromite mill,

as we discussed the byproduct of the industrial process and the tailings that would come from it. By the creek, we also looked at a soil core from the Hatboro Series, which is an alluviumrich floodplain soil. This core was quite moist and a silt-loam, consisting of relatively uniform brown color throughout. Being in a very dynamic environment by the water, the soils are kept perpetually young and can be classified as entisols.

We stopped for a moment in the mowed lawn to work on a one-line drawing exercise. The lawn had a lovely view of the surrounding trees, where a flock of possibly blackbirds flew away. In the area we saw several large Black Walnuts (Juglans nigra), which have expensive energy-intensive leaves that fall early in the season. Down the way was also an equestrian ring and a barn structure. With the fall colors continuing to develop, I tried to capture the hues with watercolors.

After our sketching time and lunch, we went over to the soil pit dug by Sally to observe the soils of the Manor Series, which is what we see a lot of in the Wissahickon park near Philadelphia.

This soil has a distinct O, A, and B horizon, and the B horizon is yellowish brown with a high chroma. The high chroma shows that the soil is relatively well-drained.

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Continuing on through the hike, we started to see a shift in vegetation as we headed out of the manor series soils and into the serpentine barrens. Along the way, we saw an incredible grove of black birch (Betula lenta) trees that have reproduced in great numbers due to their clonal nature. While walking, we snapped some twigs off, smelling and tasting the birch beer or wintergreen flavors.

We were also starting to notice more stands of dead pitch pines, which were decimated by the Southern Pine Beetles in 2017. While walking along, we saw areas where pitch pines still stood, which is possibly due to the usage of prescribed burns previously that thinned out the tree populations and discouraged the spread of the beetles. However, we learned that following that last prescribed burn, they were no longer used. Since the remaining pitch pines were few and far between, we were really able to see each one individually against the sky and the surrounding nature. This provided a great opportunity to draw the character of the pitch pine, again using the one-line method.

After our second sketch break, we observed the soils of the Chrome series, which is weathered from serpentine. Throughout the hike, we had been collecting rocks from the path that showed off the green coloration of the serpentine. The soil profile itself was made up of a grassy O layer, a small A layer, and then refusal, or bedrock below. In the area, we observed the gravel-forb serpentine community, which consisted of plants that had very small flowers such as the Serpentine Aster (Symphyotrichum depauperatum), Rock Sandwort (Minuartia dawsonensis), Swamp Thistle (Cirsium mutium), and Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis).

As we started to loop back to the bus, we walked by an area where the pitch pines had been cut down and the bark removed. Looking at the bark pieces, the holes from the beetles were very clear, and gave a greater dimension to the infestation that had come through.

The green rocks and golden grasses were also very striking against the brown bark.

Photo (Top): Serpentine Rocks

Photo (Bottom): Munsell Color System for Soils 38

Throughout the day hiking through Nottingham County Park, we observed both the Manor series and the Chrome series, and the plant communities that grow upon both types of soils. We were also able to see the geology up close, since the serpentine rocks were all over the gravel path – the serpentine that the chrome series weathers from. All around us, in the various plants, we also understood the disturbance events that had come through, particularly prescribed burns and beetle infestations, and how they affected the plants. Overall, it was a really unique site to explore and discover, and it would be amazing to come back during the spring and summer to see the changing vegetation.

Photo: Historic Chromite Mill 39

Gray Goldenrod Solidago nemoralis

Large Field Mouse-Ear Chickweed Cerastium velutinum

Hay-Scented Fern

Dennstaedtia punctilobula

Post Oak Quercus stellata

Greenbrier

Smilax rotundifolia

Aster species Symphyotrichum sp.

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One-Line Tree Sketch 43

Common Name : Pitch Pine Scientific Name : Pinus rigida Growth Habit : Tree Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis), Slender Knotweed (Polygonum tenue) Observed Growing Conditions: Serpentine Pitch PineOak Forest and Serpentine Grassland Communities Common Name : Prairie Dropseed Scientific Name : Sporobolus heterolepis Growth Habit : Graminoid Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Slender Knotweed (Polygonum tenue), Pitch Pine (Pinus rigida) Observed Growing Conditions: Serpentine Grassland and Gravel-Form Communities Common Name : Slender Knotweed Scientific Name : Polygonum tenue Growth Habit : Forb Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Prairie Dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis), Pitch Pine (Pinus rigida) Observed Growing Conditions: Serpentine Grassland and Gravel-Form Communities

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SIX

SCENTS AND SENSES AT RINGING ROCKS

Another Thursday called for another exciting field trip! Our bus headed up to Ringing Rocks County Park, located in Bucks County. Though I had driven part of our route many times (my old work commute from Villanova to Doylestown), I had never ventured further past Doylestown to this park before. The site is located on two types of bedrock: diabase and hornfels. The feature of the site is the boulder field, where the large rocks have a beautiful resonance when struck with hammers. While we had visited the Piedmont uplands before in the Wissahickon and West Chester County, now we were getting to see the Gettysburg-Newark Lowland Section of the Piedmont, characterized by sedimentary rock. Along the hike, we focused on our sensory observations. With so many visual, auditory, textural, and so many other inputs all around us, it was an amazing day that was one of the best field trips yet.

Visually, the autumn colors stood out the most in my eyes.

As we were walking through the forest, the sunlight shone through the golden and crimson leaves in the tree canopy.

Leaves caught the sunlight as they rained down like confetti when a strong breeze went by. The trees we could see consisted of familiar species such as White Oak (Quercus alba), Red Maple (Acer rubrum),

American Beech (Fagus grandifolia), and Black Birch (Betula lenta). Closer to the ground, the Mapleleaf Viburnum shrubs (Viburnum acerifolium) had such a striking pink-purpleish, almost pastel hue that still stood out tremendously against the leaf litter. Additionally, the small yellow flowers of the Witchhazel (Hamamelis virginiana) were quite prominent.

Besides the vibrant colors of the trees, there was plenty more to observe visually along the hike with the various vistas that opened up in front of us as we hiked. The first one was the boulder field, which emerged in a clearing of the countless diabase rocks in very rounded forms. Since they were located in such a large clearing, the sunlight coming in highlighted the shade and light on the round rocks, while in the background was a lovely framing of trees. The other vistas that we arrived at were the dry creek bed and waterfall. Approaching from the top of the lower section of the river, we were able to look down at the ravine. Once we scrambled down the rocks into the creek bed, we were able to look upwards at the cliff face of the hornfels, in contrast to the rocks of the diabase. At both of the vistas, we took the time to sketch the view and really translate what we were seeing into our sketchbooks.

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Touch While walking through the park, I was acutely aware of the sensation of the ground textures, whether they were dry and grippy stones in the ringing rocks field, the slippery rocks by the waterfall, the shifting dry leaf cover, or the fuzzy moss growing on the stones. Each of the grounds had different feelings, and we had to pay close attention especially when descending and ascending the rock slopes. With the multitude of fallen leaves, it was difficult to see where there was solid ground versus holes in the ground.

Sometimes, your feet would sink into soft ground, instead of hitting solid rock underneath the leaf litter. On the uphill climb, my shoe treads struggled in gaining traction on the very smooth rocks, slipping as I searched for a handhold. One other special tactile experience I had during this trip was at the farm on the way home – the feeling of the corn kernels in the “cornbox” was especially soothing and unexpected.

Smell The forest smell, composed of Northern Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), decaying leaf litter, and the smell of tree bark. It differed as we walked across the different areas of the hike. Iin the big rock field it was less vegetated and more dusty, so there was less of a traditional “woody” scent wafting through. When we got through to the forested areas where there were inches of leaves on the ground, the scent of the forest really came through. In the area by High Falls, I tried to imagine how it would smell with water flowing through, though when we went it was quite dry.

Sound In the rock field, we had a grand time running around testing hammers on each of the rocks. Interestingly, when I tried to do some research on the science behind the ringing phenomenon, there doesn’t seem to be a proven experimental explanation. One theory is with the elastic stresses within the rocks during the boulder field formations. However, even without knowing the scientific explanation, we were performing our own observation of which rocks had the “best” sounds, with some being much more resonant than others. As we left the rock field, the sounds shifted to the crunching leaves under our feet and the whistling winds through the branches of the trees.

Photo (Top): Amazing Fall Leaves

Photo (Bottom): Moss-Covered Rock Structures 48

Taste Though I didn’t taste anything particularly from the field at Ringing Rocks, I did have my chicken caesar salad while sitting in the sunshine on the boulders and had a delicious cup of apple cider at the farm on the way home!

Ringing Rocks County Park was a field trip chock-full of sensory observations, ranging from warm colors throughout the tree canopy and down to the ground plane, the feeling of rocks beneath our feet, and the resonating sounds and intoxicating smells surrounding us. Beyond the senses, it was a site of incredibly interesting geologic conditions where we could see the bedrock conditions at the ground surface. As a park that has been so close to me geographically, I’m sad that I’ve never experienced it before, but excited to share with friends and family for years to come.

Photo: Boulder Field and the Forest in Watercolor 49

Witch Hazel

Hamamelis virginiana

Christmas Fern

Polyctichum acrostichoides

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Purpleflowering Raspberry Rubus odoratus

Red Maple Acer rubrum

Mapleleaf Viburnum Viburnum acerifolium

Spicebush

Lindera benzoin

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Common Name : White Ash Scientific Name : Fraxinus americana Growth Habit : Tree Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Observed Growing Conditions: Canopy Common Name : Eastern Hemlock Scientific Name : Tsuga canadensis Growth Habit : Tree Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Observed Growing Conditions: Canopy Common Name : Flowering Dogwood Scientific Name : Cornus florida Growth Habit : Tree Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Observed Growing Conditions: Canopy Common Name : Shagbark Hickory Scientific Name : Carya ovata Growth Habit : Tree Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FACU Observed Growing with: Observed Growing Conditions: Canopy

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SEVEN

PEAKS AND ROCK SCRAMBLING

STOP 3: LICHEN MOUND

STOP 2: MOUNTAIN KING’S STAIRS

STOP 4: BOULDER EXPANSE

STOP 1: SEA OF TREES VIEW

HAWK MOUN

TAIN ROAD

Hawk Mountain Trail Guide 57

Stop 1: Sea of Trees View An overlook vista across the sea of trees below

Stop 1, the Sea of Trees View lets visitors see the sprawling landscape below, with beautiful pops of color during the autumn months. In the carpet of trees, the white pines and yellow tulip trees emerge from the orange and brown mixed oaks. The view is framed by the quartzite rock and plenty of rhododendron on the way down the mountainside.

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Witch Hazel

Hamamelis virginiana

Thornless Blackberry Rubus canadensis

American Rhododendron Rhododendron maximum

Common Name : American Rhododendron Scientific Name : Rhododendron maximum Growth Habit : Shrub/Tree Average Height: 15-20 feet Native or Introduced (at this site): Native Is it considered invasive (at this site): No Wetland Indicator Category: FAC Observed Growing with: Witch Hazel, White Pine Observed Growing Conditions: Mountainside 59

Stop 2: Mountain King’s Stairs

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A zig-zagging staircase through a hallway of stone

Red Maple Acer rubrum

Eastern Hemlock Tsuga canadensis

Lady Fern

Athyrium filix-femina

A wonderful display of the geology of the site, Stop 2: the Mountain King’s Stairs is enclosed by sandstone quartzite walls. This area is wetter and darker than the exposed outlooks of Hawk Mountain, allowing for an abundance of ferns to grow and mosses and lichen to make their homes on the rock.

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Stop 3: Lichen Mound An impressive stack of boulders, lightly dusted with lichen

A fun scramble for hikers, Stop 3: Lichen Mound has a smattering of rocks arranged around a lovely gnarled black birch tree. The lichen creates patterns upon the stone surfaces, with the green as a striking contrast against the gray and the backdrop of orange and brown leaves

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Sourgum

Nyssa sylvatica

Black Birch

Rubus odoratus

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Stop 4: Boulder Expanse

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A river of rocks angling every which way

The geology plays a big part of the landscape here, with a cascading “river” of stones in Stop 4: Boulder Expanse. Visitors can imagine the rocks flowing down the clearing all the way down into the valley below. The expanse is ringed by many white pines, as well as more oak trees that were seen from above on the mountain overlook.

White Pine Pinus strobus

Bigtooth Aspen

Populus grandidentata

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