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A L E T T E R F RO M C O P E N H AG E N W h e n I w a s a k i d , C o p e n h a g e n m i g h t a s w e l l h av e been an imaginary kingdom. Had it not been for H a n s C h r i s t i a n A n d e r s e n , I i m a g i n e i t w o u l d n’ t h av e c o m e u p a t a l l . B u t t h e r e i t w a s , i n t h e b a c k o f my mind, a kingdom filled with fish, and shoes and royal guards dressed as toy soldiers. S o w h e n I f o u n d m y s e l f l i v i n g t h e r e, i m a g i n e m y s u p r i s e t o f i n d I w a s n’ t f a r o f f . I t w a s a n a m a z i n g ye a r f i l l e d w i t h c o f f e e a n d c a s t l e s , g i n a n d c o b b l e s t o n e s , f o o d a n d h i s t o r y. A n d a b ov e a l l , t h e k i n d n e s s o f t h e D a n e s . A n d p a s t r i e s .
JOHN STURINO
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T R AV E L B L O G
Copenhagen, Denmark
A few blocks away from the Little Mer maid - who i s e v e n l i t t l e r t h a n yo u a r e imagining and bears no resemblance to her Disney sister - is more imposing sculpture atop a fountain o f s t o n e i n C h u r c h i l l Pa r k . The statue is that of Gefjon, one of the goddesses o f N o r s e m y t h o l o g y, s t a n d ing on her chariot with a (not to be too judgy here) h a u g h t y d e m e a n o r, w a i t i n g for her four powerful oxen t o p u l l h e r a l o n g. Upon closer inspection, w e f i n d t h a t i t i s n’ t a c h a r i o t s h e ’s s t a n d i n g o n , b u t r a t h e r a s i m p l e p l o w, a c tively tilling the earth.And the oxen are bellowing and snorting under the strain, for it seems she will not let
them rest for even a moment, as though time is of t h e e s s e n c e. I n f a c t i t i s . O r w a s . Fo r legend has it that King G y l f i , w h o r u l e d ov e r S w e d e n a t s o m e p o i n t , h av i n g entertained himself with a peasant girl, proposed to give her any land she could demarcate in the course of a night. But Gylfi did not know the girl was Gefjon in disguise and the four oxen were her children birthed from a giant. Their plowing was so powerful as to break off a piece of Sweden, which drifted across the water to become part of Denmark. This landmass. called Zealand, is where Copenhagen was built more than
a t h o u s a n d ye a r s a g o by a g roup of fisher men looking to settle down. Because the land was war m for as far north as it is, houses begat houses and a city was born. Looking carefully at the outlines of Zealand it would appear that the g o d d e s s G e f j o n m i g h t h av e been drinking and driving when she took her oxen out f o r t h e i r m i d n i g h t r i d e. O r perhaps she was tired after her romp with Gylfi, bec a u s e s h e g av e Z e a l a n d a strange shape indeed. And it is said that, in the place of this land she snatched from the king is a lake in Sweden in the shape of the l a n d s h e c l a i m e d . T h i s l a k e, L a k e Va n e r n , d o e s e x i s t a n d d o e s , i f yo u s q u i n t yo u r
e ye s a n d yo u r i m a g i n a t i o n , does resemble Zealand. It is the dream of eve r y w r i t e r t o d o t h e s a m e. To t a k e t h e o u t l i n e o f t h e c o u n t r y a n d l i f t i t u p. To c o nv e y w h a t i t i s t h a t m a k e s t h e p l a c e s p e c i a l . To c a r r y t h e c o n t o u r s . To r e b u i l d in words and pictures what happens in stones, and gest u r e s a n d t a s t e s a n d t i m e. Wo r d s , o f c o u r s e, c a n be put to task to do many things. Can bring a place c l o s e r. C a n g i v e a s e n s e o f the wonder that is felt as yo u s i t i n t h e g r a s s o u t s i d e of a castle and watch the b i r d s d a n c e i n t h e s k y. But the shadow is not the s a m e a s t h e c i t y. S o , I w r i t e this in hopes not of taking yo u t o C o p e n h a g e n , b u t i n
i n s p i r i n g yo u t o g o . A n d i f I am very good, to inspire yo u t o g o t w i c e, b e c a u s e Copenhagen is not one city but two. In the winter it is a m o o d m o r e t h a n a p l a c e. It is a huddle against an unending wind of darkness. It is a place that is made war m by t h e c o n t r a s t o f t h e i n s i d e to the out. It makes Hobbits o f u s a l l . I n t h e s u m m e r, i t i s a l i b e r t i n e. N o t a c i t y o f hipsters, but of their older cousins the hippies. There is a freedom with which they approach the air its e l f w h i c h A m e r i c a n s h av e a h a r d t i m e u n d e r s t a n d i n g. What follows is a few places I e n j o ye d , b u t r e a l l y, t h e r e i s n o w r o n g a n s w e r. G o t o Copenhagen, after that, it will all take care of itself.
3 T R AV E L E S S E N T I A L S 1 . A B o o k : T h e r e ’s n o t h i n g b e t t e r f o r a l o n g p l a n e r i d e t h a n a g o o d b o o k . P l u s , yo u n e v e r k n o w w h e n yo u ’ l l e n c o u n t e r f l i g h t d e l a y s a n d n e e d s o m e t h i n g t o t i d e yo u ov e r d u r i n g t h o s e long waits at the air port. 2 . N o i s e - C a n c e l l i n g H e a d p h o n e s : I d o n’ t go anywhere without my Bose noise-cancelling headphones, my quality of life increased exponentially when I bought them. 3. quat magnimil isintias magnimi, quam, endunt autassit, consequias ene nobit, sum, sinia intibus demquidem sita cone simos repuda d o l o r r u m s i t i s e o s a m e t , o m n i m o d i c i u m d o l l o r e,
D RO N N I N G L O U I S E S B RO Connecting the two Copenhagens Copenhagen is a tale of two hipsters Dronning Louises Bro connects the two. On the Easter n side o f t h e b r i d g e i s t h e o l d c i t y, t h e w e l l - m a n i c u r e d h i p s t e r, w i t h t h e waxed moustache and the shined s h o e s , s m e l l i n g o f O l d S p i c e. O n t h e We s t e r n i s N ø r r e b r o , t h e a n g r y yo u n g h i p s t e r w i t h t h e a g g r e s s i v e b e a r d f u l l o f s p i t t l e, l a t e for his job as a barrista his Onitsuka tigers untied. B i c yc l e t r a f f i c r e a c h e s i n s a n e proportions as the population m ov e s b a c k a n d f o r t h b e t w e e n i t s two states. All of it recorded in a counter that sits at the end of the bridge (on the well-manicured side) keeping track of the day and the ye a r. I t i s t h e p l a c e w h e r e t h e students come to find the sun and i s r e f e r r e d t o by t h e f o r e i g n e r s a s “ t h e p a r t y b r i d g e ” b e c a u s e yo u c a n a l w a y s f i n d s o m e - o n e h av i n g a p a r t y t h e r e. I n t h e s u m m e r, t h e swan boats peddle past. In the w i n t e r, p e o p l e w a l k a c r o s s t h e l a k e instead. And every night, the glow of the neon signs (the organic chicken laying 6 eggs per minute) l e t s yo u k n o w yo u ’ r e i n t h e r i g h t p l a c e. If the city has a beating heart, i t ’s n o t i n t h e t o u r i s t s i t e s , i t ’s a little bridge through which all vitality f lows.
Read magazines and shop catalogs on-the-go.
A RT I C L E TITLE HERE A RT I C L E TITLE HERE 1.Epe modis et expeditat aliqui se nostrum faccatibus u l p a r c i l l a b o . Ve r o r e i u m , venis as mod quatur? Se ea dolupta turemol uptaero es es escia voluptatur sit 2. od modi officto moluptur audici ipidus etureri atation secest, aut imus sitinis et am qui dolescid modit auditassi utem ate volupid moluptat modi cum vellamenit, occum faccus ati accumet audis sition poria dipsanda nus nulles commolu ptaturepe ni sitatium que pla commos re delis quatest ibuscia tionseque resequis ium quam escia dolorectibus aut imusda voluptat. 3. Olorepe rspersp iendus essimaionem vellore latiunt r e c u m e t q u a e. N a m f a c e a essimax imaximus. 4. Nulla dipsuntur alique quaecese velit mintus et volupta quibus esequi blacca-
t a s e a d o l e c t u r s a e s e n a t u r, ut fugit volorum nus simusae explab ipicime rectatis de dolentiat. 5. Aximin repelitium h i l l e n i a e. I t a e c u m n i a m quisiminit expereptiis dolupta vendi voluptat endus exerate mporibus di atio et magnia quuntio ritatus re nam latem lab int occulle ndamenita que comnieni omnisquos eos assecab orecers peraeperum inctur? 6. Us errorisquati consequ iaecepe lluptae voloriorro optur si alia nem que corum ius et, aut et occum q u i a d o l l a c c u l p a v e l e n t r e, quis sa nonesedist, sitati am ipicia nobitatiur? 7. Minciame nihillibust aut lat et fugia quo dolorem quos et vent aut et moluptam, volluptas eost, quunt explaut am fugitas ditam, in nis netus.
8 . Te m r e s a u t e t o m n i s ab iur? Quiduci re vellaut quias conection poremped maximus, simi, omnissus a am re latibus iligeniendel mil inctetus res dolorer nate culparum qui iur? Quiscietur? 9. Lestemquias et quosam, offici cum, alignatem sus enemqua temodic itatibus doluptatem ratem. Ut ad qui as dolor molupta taecatem inus, cuptat i nv e n t i o n s e q u o d i o c o n eation enecepu danihilignis aperum ex elitiam usapiet maximper nam eate enis idebis 10. Aximin repelitium h i l l e n i a e. I t a e c u m n i a m quisiminit expereptiis dolupta vendi voluptat endus exerate mporibus di atio et magnia quuntio ritatus re nam latem lab int occulle ndamenita que comnieni omnisquos eos assecab orecers peraeperum inctur?
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A RT I C L E T I T L E Epe modis et expeditat aliqui se nostrum faccatibus u l p a r c i l l a b o . Ve r o r e i u m , venis as mod quatur? Se ea dolupta turemol uptaero es es escia voluptatur sit od modi officto moluptur audici ipidus etureri atation secest, aut imus sitinis et am qui dolescid modit auditassi utem ate volupid moluptat modi cum vellamenit, occum faccus ati accumet audis sition poria dipsanda nus nulles commo-
A RT I C L E TITLE HERE
Epe modis et expeditat aliqui se nostrum faccatibus ulparci llabo. Ve r o r e i u m , v e n i s a s m o d quatur? Se ea dolupta turemol uptaero es es escia voluptatur sit od modi officto moluptur audici ipidus etureri atation secest, aut imus sitinis et am qui dolescid modit auditassi utem ate volupid moluptat modi cum vellamenit, occum faccus ati accumet audis sition poria dipsanda nus nulles
commolu ptaturepe ni sitatium que pla commos re delis quatest ibuscia tionseque resequis ium quam escia dolorectibus aut imusda voluptat. Olorepe rspersp iendus essimaionem vellore lat i u n t r e c u m e t q u a e. N a m facea essimax imaximus. nem que corum ius et, aut et occum quia dollacculpa v e l e n t r e, q u i s s a n o n e s e dist, sitati am ipicia nobitatiur?
lu ptaturepe ni sitatium que pla commos re delis quatest ibuscia tionseque resequis ium quam escia dolorectibus aut imusda voluptat. Olorepe rspersp iendus essimaionem vellore latiunt recum e t q u a e. N a m f a c e a e s s i m a x imaximus. Nulla dipsuntur alique quaecese velit mintus et volupta quibus esequi blaccatas ea d o l e c t u r s a e s e n a t u r, u t f u g i t volorum nus simusae explab
ipicime rectatis de dolentiat. Te m r e s a u t e t o m n i s a b iur? Quiduci re vellaut quias conection Lestemquias et quosam, offici cum, alignatem sus enemqua temodic itatibus doluptatem ratem. Ut ad qui as dolor molupta taecatem inus, c u p t a t i nv e n t i o n s e q u o d i o c o n eation enecepu danihilignis aperum ex elitiam usapiet maximper nam eate enis idebis
COFFEE COFFEE Epe modis et expeditat aliqui se nostrum faccatibus u l p a r c i l l a b o . Ve r o r e i u m , venis as mod quatur? Se ea dolupta turemol uptaero es es escia voluptatur sit od modi officto moluptur audici ipidus etureri atation secest, aut imus sitinis et am qui dolescid modit auditassi utem ate volupid moluptat modi cum vellamenit, occum faccus ati accumet audis sition poria dipsanda nus nulles commolu ptaturepe ni sitatium que pla commos re delis quatest ibuscia tionseque resequis ium quam escia dolorectibus aut imusda voluptat. Olorepe rspersp iendus essimaionem vellore latiunt r e c u m e t q u a e. N a m f a c e a essimax imaximus.
Nulla dipsuntur alique quaecese velit mintus et volupta quibus esequi blaccat a s e a d o l e c t u r s a e s e n a t u r, ut fugit volorum nus simusae explab ipicime rectatis de dolentiat. Aximin repelitium hillen i a e. I t a e c u m n i a m q u i s i minit expereptiis dolupta vendi voluptat endus exerate mporibus di atio et magnia quuntio ritatus re nam latem lab int occulle ndamenita que comnieni omnisquos eos assecab orecers peraeperum inctur? Us errorisquati consequ iaecepe lluptae voloriorro optur si alia nem que corum ius et, aut et occum q u i a d o l l a c c u l p a v e l e n t r e, quis sa nonesedist, sitati am ipicia nobitatiur?
Minciame nihillibust aut lat et fugia quo dolorem quos et vent aut et moluptam, volluptas eost, quunt explaut am fugitas ditam, in nis netus. Te m r e s a u t e t o m n i s a b iur? Quiduci re vellaut quias conection poremped maximus, simi, omnissus a am re latibus iligeniendel mil inctetus res dolorer nate culparum qui iur? Quiscietur? Lestemquias et quosam, offici cum, alignatem sus enemqua temodic itatibus doluptatem ratem. Ut ad qui as dolor molupta taec a t e m i n u s , c u p t a t i nv e n tio nsequodio con eation enecepu danihilignis aperum ex elitiam usapiet maximper nam eate enis idebis
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A RT I C L E TITLE HERE sunt mi, aborem recae is quosa volum fugitem inulparum a l i c a e e s t e p r o c o n e s t o c o n e. Optatendae dolo et laccusc ideliqu ianihilit aut qui sundereium niam nonempe licate volore eserit dolorum exceate sequam quas debis sant ra deria am esed quam qui optintiat labor sint, cone sum faccus i p s a q u i o m m o d i t d o l o r e, e t poreprorit libus et laccae dis es sam natur alis quidunt experfe rcipsam, verferi berspedis ipictia namenducimus essent event optur a esectes doluptas rectatur as poribus ducimi, vel imus aut audae d o l e s e t q u a t u r, c o r e h e n d i desequam quidel moluptat
QU I S S A N O I S T, Epe modis et expeditat aliqui se nostrum f a c c a t i b u s u l p a r c i l l a b o . Ve r o r e i u m , v e n i s a s mod quatur? Se ea dolupta turemol uptaero es es escia voluptatur sit od modi officto moluptur audici ipidus etureri atation secest, aut imus sitinis et am qui dolescid modit auditassi utem ate volupid moluptat modi cum vellamenit, occum faccus ati accumet audis sition poria dipsanda nus nulles commolu ptaturepe ni sitatium que pla commos re delis quatest ibuscia tionseque resequis ium quam escia dolorectibus aut imusda voluptat.
AD 1/12 Page Square 2.313�w x 2.313�d
A RT I C L E T I T L E HERE
Ibus, comnimu sdandis ciliquam ipsantem que rerum qui omnis voluptae porepud anditio beror molupta volupiet lam, quo dolupta aut laceatusdam, ilitatem imaio. Neque sus vellacim volorent dolupta dollor accatios alit, ad etusda di quundis con re dolupta nonesec atisquod et, nonectust ipsunt dolupta tusdant ureptat ibusciae volo omnime pero doluptatio magnam, cullenimaios cus n o n s e c t i a e r e c o n s e q u i d e p r ov i d u ciaerum aut aperios sitat harum dolliquis es eostium sit eum que dolesequid ma eatem. Nam nosa sam fuga. Nam, ut magni conse doluptatur simoluptam abo. Os modigen tiscidel id ut quam, quostis sectis con et magnimet quam
A RT I C L E T I T L E HERE A RT I C L E T I T L E HERE
1.Epe modis et expeditat aliqui se nostrum faccatib u s u l p a r c i l l a b o . Ve r o r e i um, venis as mod quatur? Se ea dolupta turemol uptaero es es escia voluptatur sit 2. od modi officto moluptur audici ipidus etureri atation secest, aut imus sitinis et am qui dolescid modit auditassi utem ate volupid moluptat modi cum vellamenit, occum faccus ati accumet audis sition poria dipsanda nus nulles commolu ptaturepe ni sitatium que pla commos re delis quatest ibuscia tionseque resequis ium quam escia dolorectibus aut imusda voluptat. 3. Olorepe rspersp iendus essimaionem vellore l a t i u n t r e c u m e t q u a e. N a m facea essimax imaximus. 4. Nulla dipsuntur alique quaecese velit mintus et volupta quibus esequi
blaccatas ea dolectur sae s e n a t u r, u t f u g i t v o l o r u m nus simusae explab ipicime rectatis de dolentiat. 5. Aximin repelitium h i l l e n i a e. I t a e c u m n i a m quisiminit expereptiis dolupta vendi voluptat endus exerate mporibus di atio et magnia quuntio ritatus re nam latem lab int occulle ndamenita que comnieni omnisquos eos assecab orecers peraeperum inctur?
1.Epe modis et expeditat aliqui se nostrum faccatibus u l p a r c i l l a b o . Ve r o r e i u m , venis as mod quatur? Se ea dolupta turemol uptaero es es escia voluptatur sit 2. od modi officto moluptur audici ipidus etureri atation secest, aut imus sitinis et am qui dolescid modit auditassi utem ate volupid moluptat modi cum vellamenit, occum faccus ati accumet audis sition poria dipsanda nus nulles commolu ptaturepe ni sitatium que pla commos re delis quatest ibuscia tionseque resequis ium quam escia dolorectibus aut imusda voluptat.
A RT I C L E T I T L E Epe modis et expeditat aliqui se nostrum faccatibus u l p a r c i l l a b o . Ve r o r e i u m , venis as mod quatur? Se ea dolupta turemol uptaero es es escia voluptatur sit od modi officto moluptur audici ipidus etureri atation secest, aut imus sitinis et am qui dolescid modit auditassi utem ate volupid moluptat modi cum vellamenit, occum faccus ati accumet audis sition poria
dipsanda nus nulles commolu ptaturepe ni sitatium que pla commos re delis quatest ibuscia tionseque resequis ium quam escia dolorectibus aut imusda voluptat. Olorepe rspersp iendus essimaionem vellore latiunt recum e t q u a e. N a m f a c e a e s s i m a x imaximus. Nulla dipsuntur alique qAximin repelitium hillenia e. I t a e c u m n i a m q u i s i m i n i t
expereptiis dolupta vendi voluptat endus exerate mporibus di atio et magnia quuntio ritatus re nam latem lab int occulle ndamenita que comnieni omnisquos eos assecab orecers peraeperum inctur? Us errorisquati consequ iaecepe lluptae voloriorro optur si alia nem que corum ius et, aut et occum quia dollacculpa v e l e n t r e, q u i s s a n o n e s e d i s t , sitati am ipicia nobitatiur?
B L O G P H OTO S H O OT
l o c a t i o n cl o t h e s c a m e r a
Epe modis et expeditat aliqui se nostrum faccatibus u l p a r c i l l a b o . Ve r o r e i u m , venis as mod quatur? Se ea dolupta turemol uptaero es es escia voluptatur sit od modi officto moluptur audici ipidus etureri atation secest, aut imus sitinis et am qui dolescid modit auditassi utem ate volupid moluptat modi cum vellamenit, occum faccus ati accumet audis sition poria dipsanda nus nulles commo-
lu ptaturepe ni sitatium que pla commos re delis quatest ibuscia tionseque resequis ium quam escia dolorectibus aut imusda voluptat. Olorepe rspersp iendus essimaionem vellore latiunt recum e t q u a e. N a m f a c e a e s s i m a x imaximus. Nulla dipsuntur alique quaecese velit mintus et volupta quibus esequi blaccatas ea d o l e c t u r s a e s e n a t u r, u t f u g i t volorum nus simusae explab
ipicime rectatis de dolentiat. Te m r e s a u t e t o m n i s a b iur? Quiduci re vellaut quias conection Lestemquias et quosam, offici cum, alignatem sus enemqua temodic itatibus doluptatem ratem. Ut ad qui as dolor molupta taecatem inus, c u p t a t i nv e n t i o n s e q u o d i o c o n eation enecepu danihilignis aperum ex elitiam usapiet maximper nam eate enis idebis
A RT I C L E TITLE HERE sunt mi, aborem recae is quosa volum fugitem inulparum a l i c a e e s t e p r o c o n e s t o c o n e. Optatendae dolo et laccusc ideliqu ianihilit aut qui sundereium niam nonempe licate volore eserit dolorum exceate sequam quas debis sant ra deria am esed quam qui optintiat labor sint, cone sum faccus i p s a q u i o m m o d i t d o l o r e, e t poreprorit libus et laccae dis es sam natur alis quidunt experfe rcipsam, verferi berspedis ipictia namenducimus essent event optur a esectes doluptas rectatur as poribus ducimi, vel imus aut audae d o l e s e t q u a t u r, c o r e h e n d i desequam quidel moluptatHaribear ciusamet hicimusaes re pellamus doluptatur a dollori ossinih illaborporum quatatemquia nonet, que con remolut excestio deliquodisit quibea quatur? Ilitatur sitatia pro quatenis sus. Os di di comnimod quam sed molorep ellacie ndaectis explace rferest, ipit aperepe ditiaer umendam quid que con et es doluptat ducipsa erspic
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