An American's three month bicycle tour through Europe in the 1950s (Elizabetth Cook Rostermundt)

A Three Month Bicycle Tour Through Europe in the 1950s

by Elizabeth Cook Rostermundt Growing up in Virginia in the late 1940s and early 50s did not prepare me for the experiences during a three month bicycle tour of Europe a few years later. In my early teens, I trained for equestrian competition daily and competed on many weekends.

Elizabeth Cook Rostermundt, young teenage equestrian, Virginia, 1950s Most of the countries we rode our bikes in were still recovering from World War II. One of the first surprises came when a friend of my parents gave me a "Bon Voyage" gift, two boxes of soap. We would be staying in hostels and small country hotels.

Page 1

When our ship sailed from Canada, we didn't know there weren't an adequate number of life boats required by New York. Upon arrival we were taken to London by bus - the adventure began. A cruise down the Thames, Buckingham Palace, where the 3 "belles" couldn't make the guards blink and cars on the wrong side of the street. It was totally unexpected to find areas bombed "over 10 years ago" during the Blitz had not been restored. Still just piles of brick and concrete.

Before boarding the bus for Stratford, we had to pack our "biking" luggage - a small bag for the handle bars and a soft bag to be strapped on the back of the bike. Farewell suitcase - we'll see you in Paris in three months.

After receiving our bikes - where are the balloon tires and foot brakes? After viewing Shakespeare's theatre and other highlights of Stratford - our group headed for Bath.

Several hours later, our tour leader, Brunetta, found three belles lying on the side of the road totally exhausted. Only 1 1/2 hours more to go - we made it to our hotel - thank goodness for the soap.

We headed south thru Salisbury and visited the cathedral which was a perfect example of Gothic architecture in England. Then on to Stonehenge to view the rock formation before heading to Winchester for a much needed night of sleep. Who would have thought that we would have faded so quickly.

Salisbury Cathedral, England Page 2

Then on to South Hampton. After dinner, we checked thru customs and boarded the ship for St. Malo. Upon arrival and going thru customs and immigration again we headed for the hotel. While our dirty clothes soaked, we headed for the beach. After which we “motorized� to Mount St Michel where we spent several hours in a state of awe.

Mont St Michell Upon arriving in Dinard, we bought our luncheon food and headed south to picnic. Then back to the bikes and about 10 km in a downpour, we were drenched. As we cycled the next day, the rain started again. We waved to fellow travelers who had taken the train and were dry. We continued to Avignon, Marseilles and Nice.

Page 3

Avignon, France We were quite amazed at the reaction to American bikers. We were expected to be on a “tour bus” rather than on the amazing bike trails. As we biked and picnicked, we met wonderful people who were “fascinated” by America. It really wasn’t that long after the war, when many had been exposed to our military.

Then Monte Carlo, where there was no Princess Grace. Due to our attire, we didn’t go into the casinos. We are about to enter a bus due to the topography – not safe for cycling.

When leaving Monaco, we headed to Italy – particularly Milan. Our first taste of true cuisine. On a bus, we toured the city and there was the station. David, an amazing experience when (not to put down Virginia) but truly awesome. Then that evening to the rehearsal of Grand Opera, again a first.

Page 4

Milan train station This was hardly preparation for Rome. To see the remains of the Colosseum, where the gladiators battled each other to their death. We tossed coins in the Trevi Fountain - so far they haven’t worked, being pinched by a young man who couldn’t stop laughing – no one believed me. I was sorry not to be Catholic as we approached the Vatican. Just to stand and imagine the Pope giving a blessing from the balcony or winding his way through the crowds riding in the “pope mobile.” On a lighter side, we discovered Italian red wine – quite nice with a plate of “real spaghetti.” Though we were sad to leave, on to Venice. The water encroaching slowly on the buildings, the sadness of floating under “the Bridge of Sighs,” where prisoners were taken to prison and on a happier note being serenaded as we floated along the canals. We also discovered wonderful shopping areas where we located “take home” gift treasures.

Page 5

Venice, Italy – Bridge of Sighs We finally bid “Arrivederci” and headed toward Switzerland. We climbed on our bus until we were able to board a train up the Alps to Zermatt. From there, we only saw the Matterhorn. We climbed the Gornergrat from our hotel and saw a million stars in a pitch black sky. I wrote my parents, “God’s in his Heaven, all’s right with the world.”

After several days, we again headed north to Germany. Along the Rhine – on to Wiesbaden, which had been leveled in WW II and then a night spent in a hotel.

Though most of us had been very young during the war, we were aware of the special experience of visiting after dinner with a group of young men who were part of “Hitler’s Youth Army.” Less than 10 years before, we had been intent on killing each other. The blessing of youth, forgiveness, and understanding.

For the next two days, we cycled across Belgium and finally to France to head for Paris.

At last, the Eiffel Tower, the Champs d’Elysees, the astounding art museums which we had only read about. A bus trip to Versailles which was beyond belief to see, and

Page 6

beautiful. Again, we were overwhelmed by the curiosity of the Parisians. You see – they had never seen young Americans in Bermuda shorts on bicycles. And finally, our farewell dinner with an amazing menu and many hugs and tears. Its hard to imagine after three glorious months, we would probably say farewell for good.

But the evening was not over – two of my brother’s fraternity brothers took me to Georg Cinq restaurant for a farewell glass of wine. Believe it or not, this was my first experience with a coed bathroom. What a surprise while in the cubicle to hear men’s very large shoes. I waited for his departure. When I arrived back at the table, my two hosts were bent over in laughter – in retrospect, it was funny.

Now time to return to our ship to cross the Atlantic, sail up the St Lawrence (still not enough life jackets for the New York harbor. How lovely to see our parents waving as we disembarked. As usual both coming and going produced many tears.

And now I look back over an amazing experience about 60 years ago. At the time, it was fun and exciting, but quite honestly, I haven’t relived these experiences very often. And as I write, I do realize how amazing those three months were. Thank you for encouraging me to write and remember such a time in my life.

Elizabeth Cook Rostermundt Denver, Colorado December, 2016

Page 7