Jogjamag january 2014

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VOLUME 19 / January 2014

The Insider’s Guide

ngandong beach

Cuba on the Dance Floor Kid Puppet Master Djaduk Ferianto

The Restless Musician TOURIST DIRECTORY | TOP 10 EVENTS THIS MONTH | CITY MAPS

EDITOR’S NOTE JogjaMag is excited to bring you a fresh new design inside and out, both aesthetic and accessible. And what better time than the New Year to make some changes for the better? In stride with these updates, we will continue to provide useful, interesting and insightful content to really bring you into Jogja. Keep in touch and refer to JogjaMag for the best this thriving city has to offer, from real insiders themselves. In our January issue, find out where you can unlock paradise while staying in the province, make a difference for cheap and run the trails away from traffic and pollution. Thanks to all the people, out there, both locals and visitors, that continue to make Jogja the charismatic place it is.

Happy 2014, Julianne Greco

JOGJAMAG STAFF FOUNDER EDITOR

CONTENT MANAGER WRITER PHOTOGRAPHER GRAPHIC DESIGNER CUSTOMER SERVICE ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE DISTRIBUTOR CONTRIBUTORS Cover Photo

Sylvain Leroy Erik W. Jorgensen Sarah Herz Julianne Greco Anna Miranti Deti Lucara M. Arifin Mika Guritno Atreda Wicaksi Lily K. Jisura Hendro Wijanarko Kris Biantoro Patrick Vanhoebrouck Moko Pramusanto M. Arifin

Museum Anak Kolong Tangga 2nd floor of Taman Budaya Yogyakarta Jl. Sriwedani 1, Yogyakarta Tel. 0274 523512 Museum Hours: Tuesday - Friday, 9am - 4pm

CONTENTS DESTINATION OF THE MONTH Ngandong Beach JOGJA 08 INSPIRING Jogja Coin a Chance STREET FOOD Bakpao

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UNDERGROUND JOGJA Cuba on the Dance Floor

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JAVANESE WISDOM Awakened in Thought and Mind

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HIGHLIGHT Enchanting The World JAVANESE HEALTH SECRET Sambiloto

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OF JOGJA 20 PORTRAIT Kid Puppet Master

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ACTIVE JOGJA Hashing

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Top 10 Events What’s Happening This Month

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INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH Djaduk Ferianto

TOURIST DIRECTORY Find what you’re looking for JOGJA MAP City Map, Jl. Prawirotaman & Jl. Sosrowijayan

Copyright of:

PTPMA. Mindo Kp. Minggiran MJ 2/1106 B Yogyakarta Tel. 0274 7436052

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Contact: 0274 7436052 cso@jogjastar.com

JogjaMag @jogjamag jogjamag.com

29 Previous Editions

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

Ngandong

B e ac h Who knew paradise was this close?

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Words: Deti Lucara

ogja is a city heavily associated with culture and the arts, not necessarily famous for its beaches. On the popular traveler’s circuit, tourists flock eastward to the likes of Bali and Lombok for a beach holiday. However, a white sand beach paradise with turquoise water lies just outside the city.

Ngandong Beach is the real deal for seekers of private, exotic beaches. The beach is located in Sidoharjo Village, Tepus subdistrict, Gunung Kidul, Yogyakarta, about 55 km southeast of the city, which takes around two and a half hours to get to by car.

Gunung Kidul is a rocky area, famous for its exotic caves, jutting cliffs and beautiful beaches. Its most popular beach attractions include Krakal, Kukup and Sundak.

However, if you find those beaches too crowded with tourists, especially on the weekends or holiday season, put in a little effort to take the road less traveled. Take a walk heading east on Sundak’s shoreline. In the cove behind the barrier reef, you will find a hidden beach paradise called Ngandong.

Photo: M. Arifin 5

Like with other beaches in Gunung Kidul, in Ngandong, beautiful soft white sand meets stunning turquoise sea. Ngandong is easily recognizable, its coastline curved, yet not too wide, with some small fishing boats moored on the shoreline. Fishermen perch on top of cliffs and a small island called Watulawang, located approximately 100 meters from the shore. The island itself is a rather big reef. Just walk through some shallow water to get to it. No need to stress about being swept away from the shoreline, as waves are quite calm since it sits in between the cliffs, and the presence of Watulawang island itself stands as a breakwater.

Ngandong’s calm waves make for a nice swimming spot. The quiet beach, sheltered from the throngs of tourists found in nearby tourist attraction beaches, make Ngandong a nice place to get away from it all. Lodging facilities are available around the beach as are seafood stalls. Camping and grilling some fish over the bonfire is another suitable option for relaxation on this beach.

Please scan this QR code for the direction to Ngandong Beach

i If you want to camp, stay away from the moored fishing boats to avoid the fishy smell.

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INSPIRING JOGJA

Jogja Coin A Chance small coins big change

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Jl. Kaliurang, KM. 7,3, Jurugsari IV/9, Yogyakarta Contacts: 0888 0611 3254 (Gita) Twitter: @CACJogja FB: Yogyakarta coin a chance

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Photo: Mika Guritno

Jogja Coin A Chance

based on certain criterias namely economic condition of the parents, bright students with great academic achievement, or those who have a high enthusiasm for studying,” said Renata Gita, the External Coordinator of CAC Jogja.

Assisting the students to get the best education is not enough by just donating money, CAC volunteers is also fully committed in mentoring the grantees. They call the grantees as little sisters and brothers. These children were taught to have dreams, and develop their talents and personalities in order to grow maturely. To be able to assist the children, CAC volunteers are equipped with knowledge of educational psychology which is learnt from experienced psychologists. Volunteers must have ability to recognize children’s personality and perform personal approach for each of them. In addition, volunteers are also expected to have problem solving skills to help their little sisters and brothers overcome their problems in their everyday lives. “Poverty brings a lot of problems follow. Many of the poor children become victims of bullying at school because they can’t afford the ‘normal’ life style. Other kids have to work hard to help parents earn money. We can’t let our little innocent sisters and brothers suffer. We should be able to provide a solution for them,“ Gita says.

The idea to offer solutions in addressing financial problems of the parents, lead CAC to set up a sister project called Tiara Project, a program aimed to give venture capital to the parents to start their business. “Tiara project is inspired from the name of one of our little sisters, Tiara. She is an eight-year-old girl who had to work hard picking up trash and selling it to earn some money. We came to know that her mother actually wanted to have a small stall to sell snacks. We then helped her with startup capital to open the business. The mother has been running her stall for almost a year now. Next we also want to help other parents, and lighten the burden of our little sisters and brothers “ Gita says.

Words: Deti Lucara

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he high cost of education is a major issue in Indonesia, leading many students to drop out of school from the inability to pay tuition. In December 2008 a group of national, education focused bloggers felt the need to help, and founded Coin A Chance (CAC) in Jakarta. The idea was to collect coins and donate them to students in need. The huge response to this movement has allowed it to spread to other cities in Indonesia, coming to Yogyakarta in April 2009.

Indonesian coins are considered of trivial value, often collecting in drawers, pockets and tables for years. The good intention of CAC turns these stagnant coins into enough funds to send children back to schools. CAC collects coins by putting piggy banks in public areas like coffee shops, stores, restaurants and other strategic spots. These venues are called “dropzones”. In the first year, CAC Jogja had only two dropzone points, but they rapidly developed and now have more than 50 dropzones across the city. Coins in the piggy banks are collected each month (on Coin Collecting Day) before distribution to students in need.

CAC’s goal is to send all Indonesian children to school. Though each coin is a low value, in one year, they can together reach the target of Rp. 40 million in total, so they never give up collecting and as result, every year CAC is able to finance school fees for at least 45 students from 15 schools. The CAC volunteers are actively conducting a survey in schools to select children in need. “We see the potential students

street food

Bakpao Hot Buns

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Photo: M. Arifin

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Words: Deti Lucara

ho can resist the temptation of a cute chubby round bun, white in color, soft in texture, and with various fillings to choose from? Locals call this adorable treat “bakpao�.

Bakpao, or baozi, originates from China. This traditional food, is called Yugpao or Nyukppao in the Hokkien language. It literally means wrapped bun with meat filling. However, the filling is not always meat (chicken, beef or pork) in Indonesia especially, and there are also other fillings available including vegetables, srikaya fruit sauce, soy butter, green beans, chocolate and so on.

Based on a Chinese folklore, bakpao was invented by the scholar and military strategist, Zhuge Liang, dating back to the third century. Bakpao is made of flour and yeast and served in a steamer that can contain about 10 buns. There are two types of bakpao in the matter of size: the big one measures about ten centimeters across, and the small one is about five centimeters. Bakpao is so popular in China and can be found anywhere. It is most often eaten for breakfast.

In Malay tradition, bakpao became part of its culinary heritage by way of the many Chinese immigrants that have lived there for centuries. From Malaysia, bakpao spread to other countries nearby including Indonesia. In Malaysia and Indonesia, in respect of Islamic rules, bakpao contains no pork, using chicken and beef instead or other signature fillings for the buns.

The vendors in Indonesia sell bakpao on a cart and by driving around the streets at night.

Although in China bakpao is commonly eaten in the morning, it is difficult to get bakpao during the daytime in Indonesia. If you have tried bakpao in China or Malaysia, it is time to try Indonesian bakpao with its special fillings and tastes, especially blackened green bean (kumbu)!

JAVANESE WISDOM

One often hears that Javanese sometimes engage in rituals and fasting retreats in isolated spots near the sea or in forest sites. Why do they perform these?

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Awakened in Thought and Mind

Where do they go to perform such ascetic and meditational practices?

It is true that in the Yogyakarta region many people engaging in such practices tend to isolate themselves at certain spots considered sacred and conducive for such activities. It is well known that the south coast receives a crucial orientation preference in anything spiritual, since this is the realm of the Mother or Kanjeng Ibu, a most important ancestor figure for the Javanese who is also believed to rule all of the spirit beings on the island. Many spots on the coastal beaches and caves are places for solitary or group rituals and asceticism. Connecting with highly achieved ancestors will be easier there because they are in general seen to be attracted and dwell near the Kanjeng Ibu’s realm. Like the Indian Goddess Durga, she is known to bestow forgiveness yet also is the main destroying agent if such is the necessity dictated by the laws of Karma. Adoration, devotion and fear are seen in the mystic’s approaches to the south coast. The mystical practitioners will also find peace to practice in isolated forests and hilltop sites in the backcountry of the coast. The hills of Gunung Kidul, Kulon Progo and the great Merapi volcano all provide such ancient magical and natural spots to retire and retreat. Some famous spots have already been described in former JogjaMag articles. A noteworthy site is the Royal pertapaan (ascetic ground) of the Mbanglampir Hill in the southern range of Gunung Kidul, a bit inland of the famous Baron beach and the touristic beaches further east of it.

Words: Patrick Vanhoebrouck & Moko Pramusanto

In Java, mysticism has always played a very important role in social life. The performance of mystical practices relates to the quest for answers about one’s identity, about the meaning of life and God, and about finding guidance in distinguishing good from bad decisions.

The last reason was especially always important for any king or leader in his own right (in spirituality including everyone conscious of the need to mawas diri, controlling oneself). If we accept that Javanese cosmology predates Hinduism, Buddhism and Islam on this island, we can see that these forms of spiritual practices have indeed very ancient roots which are not historically traceable based on the limits of current Javanese historiography and archeological analysis. Yet the practitioners themselves tell about the immemorial guidance of the ancestors (leluhur) in performing such asceticism practices (lelaku prihatin). Essentially the result is set on finding answers and guidance in leading one’s life amongst sometimes complicated situations and events. Methodologically mystical practices are geared to discover about one’s own self, and how that knowledge can help in dealing with other beings around oneself and ultimately how one then approaches the whole universe and its parts. By performing such rituals and ascetic exercises one hopes to attain higher qualities of consciousness and subtle perception (interpreting the world through rasa). Applications of rasa in everyday life are seen in manners of harmonized relationship with others, with oneself by using better judgment and decision-making skills in dealing with life’s ever-changing needs. The nature of and time allotted for the practice varies according to one’s needs but more importantly according to one’s stage on the spiritual path, including meditations (semedi), fasting (tapa), metaphysical trials (laku kasekten) and offering rituals (larung/labuh). It may alternatively be an individual exercise or a collective one as well.

AMBANGUN LANDHEPING BUDI LAN PIKIR

Can you tell us a bit of the history and philosophy of the Mbanglampir hilltop?

The history of Mbanglampir as a seclusion spot most probably predates the rise of the Mataram Kingdom of the mid-sixteenth century under Panembahan Senopati. Yet it is the stories of his spiritual and metaphysical training under the guidance of his father the sage Ki Ageng Panembahan here that are mostly remembered by the present-day mystical practitioners who still crowd the place at nighttime. Senopati allegedly spent much time here developing the ilmu and aji which were to prepare him to become enthroned as the first king of the new Mataram Dinasty lineage which continues today through his genetic descendants Hamengkubuwono X of Yogyakarta and Pakubuwono in Solo. His gurus Ki Panembahan and Ki Juru Mertani were both disciples and preservers of the nearly lost Majapahit spiritual heritage with its Hindu-Buddhist Dharma and Tantra orientation. Senopati attained different secret realizations here which are known as Wahyu, which gives him a near Messianic status amongst later Kejawen followers. The late guardian of the place, Mbah Tomo, explained it like this: Wahyu Gagak Emprit: Is a mystical realization which makes one understand about the reality of the phenomena we call life and death. Without going too deep into it, the Javanese assert that this type of understanding anchors an attitude within oneself which is always geared to see the best manner guaranteeing

Slamet or safety and harmony for oneself both through the experience of life as well as beyond it, since origin and aim become clear.

Wahyu Panca Purba: This revelation is a doctrine that makes us aware of the deceiving effects of sensory stimulation which create attachment. This sixth sense influences hearts and minds so that the five senses are in control. One then experiences like a private source of wisdom in order to remain peaceful, wise and righteous in the action, speech and thought. Considered a crucial wahyu in order to be a good people leader.

Wahyu Gono relates to the reality of material possession and relative attachments towards its value in life, assumedly leading to an understanding of impermanence, or how things come to appear and disappear in the universal realm.

Wahyu Kembang Semampir: Like a flower’s growth process from a seed to its ashes, the life process of a practitioner is shown to be just that…an impermanent process from non-being to being and back to non-being. Impermanence of the self.

Wahyu Bang lan Pir: From the pepatah “AMBANGUN LANDHEPING BUDI LAN PIKIR” which means to build clear wisdom and silence in both mind and thought); a king should be smart, physically agile, yet also mentally and spiritually conscious in order to triumph righteously in action.

This revelation turned a young practitioner named Danang Sutowijaya into the messiah King Senopati before he set the foundations for the mighty Mataram dynasty. It is received to prepare future leaders who seek to be smart and agile until they get the work done.

UNDERGROUND JOGJA

Cuba

on the Dance floor Salsa Takes Jogja by Storm

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The fun and energetic character of salsa affects the relationships amongst salsa fans. The graceful and agile movement of the dance seems to be shaping the character of its practitioners to become open, fun, and flexible. “In this community I have found a friend, a best friend, and family. Whenever we gather together there is only laughter and joy while we dance. It is always fun to get together,” says Willy Setyo, who has been a member of JSC since 2005.

This sociable aspect of salsa is another perk of the Salsa community, combining new friendships along with exercise and learning new dance steps. The community in Jogja has grown rapidly in recent years, and many of the members of JSC have moved on to establish their own salsa classes and groups. The success of it cannot be separated from its appeal. The sensual movements, the joy, the laughter and the total workout all contribute to its charm.

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JOIN THE FUN Free Salsa Classes (8 - 11pm): Wednesday: Jogja Kopitiam, Jl. Sosrowijayan Thursday: Kongkalikong, Jl. Tamansiswa Friday: Suko Wine Lounge Sheraton Hotel, Jl. Solo

Photo: Courtesy of Tono Effendi

everal couples move across the dancefloor with dynamic and quick-paced steps, forward and backward, laterally with spins, taking distance, then stepping closer - every movement in time to the rhythmic Salsa music. The whole scene looks sexy, graceful and vibrant.

The salsa community in Jogja (Jogja Salsa Club or JSC) has been giving a romantic touch to city nightlife for ten years. Salsa dancing is originally a Cuban folk dance that is now famous worldwide. In America, particularly in Los Angeles and New York, salsa dancing has risen in popularity so rapidly that the different places have developed their own distinctive styles of salsa. Tono Effendi, the founder of JSC at first embraced the traditional Cuban-style salsa, but he felt it was too structured. After studying with many well-known salsa instructors, both from Indonesia and abroad, Tono transitioned to adopting the Los Angeles style, which is more dynamic - constantly changing and developing with the times.

This popular dance style has stolen the hearts of many people in Jogja, especially among the youth, though all ages enjoy the dance. “Our community is totally open so there is no record of exact numbers of our members, I reckon there may be about 300 people. We never limit the ages, everyone can come and join us, ranging from elementary school children to the oldest person we have, at 75 years old,” said Tono.

Words: Deti Lucara

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HIGHLIGHT

Enchanting the World Indonesian batik on the international catwalk

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You can take a batik class at: + Batik Museum, Jl. Dr Sutomo 13 A, Jogjakarta.

Tel. +62 274 562338 + Village Park, to the west of Taman Sari Water Castle + Wukirsari Village, Imogiri You are welcome to take a class at any time, with various class durations adjusting to your needs (the duration ranges from two hours to days), with a cost that varies as well.

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What is it?

Batik is a cloth that is traditionally made using a manual wax-resist dyeing technique. The process starts by drawing patterns on the cloth using a canting (a type of pen) with melted wax as the ink, followed by a series of dyeing, drying and re-waxing steps. The long process of making tulis (handwriting) batik creates intricate motifs, rich with philosophical meaning. Exact replication of tulis batik is not possible, making each a masterpiece in itself. Silk, being especially difficult to write on, is the most highly prized material for this style of fabric art.

Today, much of the batik style cloth is done with machines that can mass-produce, by using what is called the stamping technique, and resulting in neater designs on the cloth than batik that is made by hand. However nothing can truly achieve the quality and authenticity of a piece of tulis batik, where just two to two and a half meters can take between two and three months to create.

Words: Deti Lucara

On 2 October 2009, UNESCO designated Indonesia as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in terms of preservation of batik.

or residents of Yogyakarta, batik clothing is often seen as traditional garb, to wear at the office, especially on Fridays, and at weddings or other community events. Internationally, batik has stolen the spotlight of the fashion stage, as designers take a core part of Indonesia’s cultural heritage, and give it modern flair. As recently as 2011, batik from the megamendung motif graced the catwalk at London Fashion Week. While at the world prestigious fashion show, Italy Fashion Week, in January 2013, Versace and Armani presented a collection of sogan batik motif with material from batik artisans in Solo, one of Jogja’s neighboring cities.

Style and Significance The colors applied in batik fabrics are usually indigo, dark brown and white, and respectively representing the Hindu deities Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. Batik patterns are very diverse, and each region on Java has its own recognizable style.

The first level of classification for batik on Java can be divided into two types: Palace Batik can be found primarily in Yogyakarta and Solo.

Palace Batik tends to have darker colors

Coastal Batik is represented by areas in the northern coast of Java such as Pekalongan, Cirebon, Lasem, Tuban and Madura.

Coastal batik tends to be brighter, with motifs of flora and fauna.

There are certain patterns of batik, which should only be worn by the nobility and can be recognized by the wider stripes and larger wavy lines. In addition, some batik motifs have specific meaning, and recommended only for use on certain occasions.

The sidomukti motif, for example, is believed to be a symbol of prosperity that is usually wore by Javanese brides.

The udan riris motif has the meaning of “fortitude to live through bad times�.

The parang kusuma motif means people must have the power to struggle for physical and spiritual glory.

The kawung motif implies that desire and endeavor always lead to a good result.

To See More In your schedule for visiting Yogyakarta, plan some time to stop by the Batik Museum on Jl. Dr. Sutomo, where you will find a wide collection of batik. If you wish to see directly how batik is made, take a trip to the Taman Village near Tamansari Water Castle, and Wukirsari village in Imogiri, close to the cemetery of the Yogyakarta Kings. Almost everyone in these areas has a workshop and showroom attached to their house. Batik classes are also available for those who want to experience this art form and create a tulis batik masterpiece of their own. Who knows, a well-known fashion company in Paris might be interested in buying your work.

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JAVANESE health secret

Sambiloto Sambiloto has a surprisingly large range of applications.

It is often utilized to overcome hepatitis, spleen infections, dysentery, typhoid, diarrhea, influenza, tonsillitis, lung abscess, bronchitis, acute kidney infections, ear infections, ear viral infections, toothaches, malaria complications, gonorrhea and several other internal organ afflictions including cancers. Outer skin afflictions equally can be healed with sambiloto pulp.

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Photo: buahdansayur.com

Andrographis paniculata Nees

Words: Moko Pramusanto

The sambiloto leaves are usually made into an emulsion after boiling and reducing in water. This can be taken orally or spread on external wounds and symptoms as well.

Sambiloto is an appetite stimulant when taken orally.

A famous use of the sambiloto amongst peasant populations is its capacity to neutralize the effect of poisonous snake bites. When such a thing occurs during a day at the field, people will try to run and find a bunch of sambiloto and then chew the plants on the spot to apply it on the bite-wound.

The multiplicity of applications of the plants is related to the many active chemical agents contained in the leaves and stems. Potency of some of the agents can be quite strong and thus in general it is advised to not use sambiloto for babies and very young children.

Not surprisingly, sambiloto is recurrent in all kinds of local jamu herbal mixes. As a local healer and herbalist, sambiloto figures as a staple in nearly all of my therapeutic jamu’s, especially those designed to relieve cancer.

Again we have here another familiar exponent of the Javanese living pharmacy or Apotek Hidup!

PREPARATION

n an old Javanese text from the 13th Century titled Serat Nitisastro, a special reference is made to the wonderful properties of a plant named sambiloto, attributing it as a purifying force for the world. In another reference by the famous 18th century Surakarta Kraton scribe, Yasadipura, in his work Serat Rama, it is the sambiloto plant that heals the monkey knight Hanuman from his wounds inflicted by the Demon King Rahwana during Hanuman valiant attempt to deliver the kidnapped Princess Shinta. In the epos, the Prince Rama also consumes the plant for strength during the grueling search for his kidnapped love. Yasadipura uses this excerpt of the Ramayana to introduce the many disease-healing qualities of the sambiloto plant and to provide a list of recipes using the herb as a base.

The herb is described in the Ramayana under its Sanskrit name Usandhilata, and other texts later on repeated the almost phenomenal qualities of this unique plant.

The sambiloto (Javanese name of Andrographis paniculata Nees) is found as a wild herb nearly all over Indonesia under different local language labels. The parts used in traditional healing are the leaves mostly, yet the whole plant can be utilized before flowering.

APPLICATION

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portrait of jogja

Tahta Harimurti Proboatmojo

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the Javanese puppet scene. When we, his parents, asked him to recount a puppet play, he did it well, sometimes he also added some interesting facts about the story that we didn’t even know. We finally decided to bring him to a dhalang studio in an institute for arts development (PPPPT Kesenian),” Tahta’s mother, Febriani Hendrawati, said.

In traditional Javanese society, the art of puppetry is often passed down within families, but in Tahta’s case there was no one in the family with the dhalang talent. After joining the dhalang studio nine months ago, his ability has gradually improved. He has had the honor several times to perform in prestigious events at UGM, and he once was entrusted to play the gilded puppets that belong to UGM during a “Puppet For Humanity” event in 2013.

Mastering all the techniques in Javanese puppetry is tough. And there is a belief that apart from being good puppeteers, children puppet masters are usually good in other fields as well. Tahta seems to prove this theory through additional achievements in swimming, taekwondo, horse jockeying and advanced academic achievement. “Every time he wants to learn something, he will do it wholeheartedly. And every time the mentors of sports clubs he joined in, tell me that he has lots of potential to be a national athlete. But so far, Tahta is quite satisfied with the ability to master it, do not want to develop further to become a national athlete. On the other hand, puppetry hasn’t lost its charm for him, it still makes him want to continue and develop more,” Hendrawati said.

Dhalang Studio at PPPG Kesenian Jl. Kaliurang, KM. 12.5, Yogyakarta Rehearsal schedule: every Tuesday and Friday, 2 - 4pm

Photo: M. Arifin

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Kid Puppet Master

Words: Deti Lucara

n a Sunday morning at Koesnadi Hardjasoemantri, Cultural Center, Gadjah Mada University (UGM), the story of Ghatotkacha’s birth, a main character in the epic Indian story “Mahabharata”, is told by a Javanese puppet made of leather conducted by a young puppet master.

His skill is expressed in animating the puppet - singing, and performing the dialogue amongst the characters in different tones. This exceptional performance is given by 12-year-old Tahta Harimurti Proboatmojo, a dhalang (puppet master), and one of the prominent junior puppet masters in town.

In Javanese tradition, the dhalang sits behind the screen made of white cloth which is stretched on a wooden frame. A lamp projects a shadow on the screen. The sharpened holder of the puppets are pushed into the trunk of a banana tree which serves as the stage. The stories in the Javanese puppet show are rooted from two Indian epic stories, Mahabharata and Ramayana. The puppet master tells the story through three major elements: music, vocals and puppetry itself. The musical aspect includes giving commands to the gamelan band as the accompaniment; the vocal aspect includes singing, which is called sulukan, and also mimicking the dialogues of the characters with different tone and intonation; while the puppetry aspect involves the skill to animate the puppets. It takes practice and discipline to master all the techniques and Tahta’s performance at UGM demonstrates his early rise to professional level puppetry and storytelling.

Tahta’s interest in puppet art started in kindergarten, when other children were reading Japanese comics (manga), he preferred puppet comics. “He liked to read puppet stories, he always enthusiastically observed when the senior puppet masters performed, he even would take some little surveys on the internet to get a deep insight into

tahta harimurti proboatmojo

HASHING

active jogja

Fun Run

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Malioboro HHH The Real Hash, Yogyakarta HHH Mataram Yogyakarta HHH Prambanan HHH Jogjakarta HHH Mount Merapi HHH See indohash.com for complete listings of hash house harrier clubs in Indonesia

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Photo: Julianne Greco

Hit the trail and hash with:

Hashes are organized into three distances: short (2-3K), medium (4-5K) and long (68K). Sprinters dashing their way through the whole course, joggers keeping a steady pace and others walking at a more leisurely pace, can all be spotted at any given hash in Jogja.

Participants cite a number of reasons for why they join hash—it being Indonesia, socializing ranks highly. Often set outside of the city in trails, runners appreciate the scenery. “We are surrounded by nature in a trail environment, far from pollution,” explained Dzaki, a hashing regular.

While road running challenges like competing for space with motorbikes and cars and inhaling pollution are removed from hashing, do not be fooled, hash courses can be quite difficult with steep inclines, rocky paths and rivers to cross. However, one of the biggest challenges is keeping on the trail! Courses are marked using small scraps of paper piles that are spread out every several meters.

There are currently six listed hashing groups in Jogja. They all mainly host one regular hash per week and sometimes work together to host events. Hash sites are often rotated every two to three months by clubs, while courses are created fresh every time.

Depending on the group, a registration fee of about Rp. 10,000/event is charged to cover water, snacks and a meal at “down down,” the celebration for finishing a hash.

Words: Julianne Greco

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n on, is called out, as a small wave of people wearing multi-colored polos takes off running. The words signify the start of a new hash, through dirt trails and broken roads in Jogja’s countryside, where runners make their way across kilometers of pure challenge to the finish line, with the unabashed objective of inhaling gudeg and sipping some cold Bintang.

Hash House Harriers (HHH), sometimes described as “a drinking club with a running problem,” has manifested itself in Jogja in a quite different variety from the original club. The first HHH was formed in 1938

by British colonial officials in KL, based on a popular paper chase game “hare and hounds.” Hashing practices have evolved since and the activity has spread around the world, finding its way to all seven continents (even Antarctica). Practiced on such a large scale, the practicalities of hashing worldwide look very different from club to club. Some make like a pub crawl and chug beer at every checkpoint, while others wait to the finish line to down some cold ones.

In Jogja, beer is not a key ingredient of a hash, and is usually only offered at special events, when a club wants to celebrate someone’s birthday, commemorate an anniversary or mark a special holiday, like Chinese New Year. Though special events are sometimes organized as running races, a typical hash event in Jogja is set up as a group run, without the intention of competing.

interview of the month

Djaduk Ferianto stless e R e h T an Musici

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An artist is not born instantly

Recently, we had the opportunity to interview Djaduk Ferianto, a musician for more than four decades, known for composing ethnic-modern music. From his roots in his childhood home in Jogja, he has captured media attention locally and internationally, and is the founder of Ngogyajazz, an annual jazz festival in Jogja which started in 2009.

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With the dynamics and changes, it means there is a lifetime learning process with music. Can you elaborate on your views of this?

I see this learning process as a part of understanding ourselves and others. Music is not just about showing off the skills and techniques on the stages, it is not an event to worship the musicians. Rather, the music is about the consciousness as a human being and how we understand other people and cultures. The artists must not stop learning, not be arrogant though they have become big names already. I have always considered myself a fool who is left behind, and when I accept this fact as an imperfect person, it drives me to keep moving and learning anywhere, anytime, and from anyone. This learning process must be done continuously - an artist is not born instantly.

Photo: M. Arifin

Your ability to change has led some to call you “the restless musician”, what are your thoughts about this nickname?

Restlessness is a form of anxiety that is actually felt by a lot of young people. We are always restless to look for something new which will fit in our dynamic world.

There is a realization amongst young people that tradition is such an open playground, but first of all it requires a willingness to open up ourselves and move dynamically with the changes. If this process does

not happen, there will be a vacuum, an emptiness, and that means the culture is stagnant. What young people do is try to fill the gap through any media such as music, theater, visual arts and so on. It works just like a battery, which should be charged continuously to keep it alive.

Words: Deti Lucara

You are a famous Indonesian musician who receives a lot of praise in the way you explore ethnic-modern music. How did you come to this point?

I was born in an artistic family with a strong Javanese tradition. In my childhood I used to play gamelan (a traditional Javanese musical instrument). But as I grew up, I felt the desire to get out of my habitat and mingle with other traditions. For me, tradition never stops, it is always evolving, influencing and collaborating. In this process, some cultural elements may go missing, but others may grow. That is the consequence, but it is natural. Change is an inevitable part of life.

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What do you think of the conservatives who tend to oppose changes to traditional music?

There is an interesting tendency when ethnicmodern music grows and increasingly has value and bargaining position, the musicians then tend to go back to their traditions, to their habitat. They are trying to reassert their identity, they don’t want to leave it but want to move with it instead.

So though conservatives might say that young people today are detached from their roots and no longer concerned about the culture, it seems to me young people are currently giving full attention to tradition, they are creating their own traditions.

Is there a way to synchronize the conservative and modern ways of thinking into a universal music?

That is why I began the annual jazz festival in Jogja: Ngayogjazz. At this festival, I bring jazz back as folk music, not an exclusive music which only played in the cafes, but as an event in the middle of the village, in the courtyard of local residents. It is a way to place jazz as part of our behaviors, habits and culture. The interaction between the musicians, the audience and the local street vendors in the vicinity, is what we call a jam session. There is no more stage, the environment as a whole is a musical event itself.

Ngayogjazz is touted as one of the most successful folk music events in Indonesia. But why did you choose jazz?

Jazz is a resistance music, it was born among black immigrant workers in America. But in Indonesia, jazz has become an elite and exclusive music. In fact, jazz is a type of folk music like with gamelan here. Me and some friends, including Idang Rasidi (a famous Indonesian jazz pianist), have the same vision. We want to bring back the spirit of proletarian jazz. Jazz should belong to everybody.

Musicians need to work not just for themselves to be more popular, but also on how to create the culture of music itself, which as we’ve discussed is dynamically changing. Musicians should realize that music is not about them personally, music is for all. And with music, we celebrate joy together, a folk party for all walks of life. In addition, jazz has a lot of flexibility in accommodating any kind of music, we could collaborate jazz with pop music, ska, reggae, ethnic, punk, rock and so on.

top 10 events 3 - 5 Jan

Clothing Expo: the Parade 2014

Time: 10am – 10pm Place: Grand Bima Hall, JEC Phone: 08179437337 Admission: Rp. 15K An annual clothing expo will be held early in the new year, as a gathering moment for creative clothing practitioners throughout the country. The event represents the dynamic growth of the clothing industry in Indonesia, as well as the moment to show the best works of each clothing community.

National Zoology Olympiad and Poster Competition

4 Jan - 9 Feb Everyday

Time: 8am - 10pm Place: Fakultas Kedokteran Hewan UGM Phone: 085736965846 Admission: Free The Gadjah Mada University (UGM) student union of veterinary students has a unique way to introduce zoology to the public at large, by way of holding an olympiad event and also a poster contest. Everybody is invited to participate, especially high school students, to get more insights into the animal world.

Sukribo Cartoon Exhibition by Ismail

7 - 16 Jan

Time: 9am – 9pm Place: Bentara Budaya Yogyakarta, Jl Suroto No.2, Kota Baru Phone: 0274 560404 Admission: Free Sukribo is a comic strip series published in Kompas daily newspaper, every Sunday. Ismail, the comic artist, created the character Sukribo, who is presented as a comedic character (complete with his ​​frizzy hair). The comic parodies current socio-political issues. The exhibition, titled “Menyisir Sukribo, Menyisir Indonesia,” is held to celebrate a decade of Sukribo’s publication.

Wooden Mask making Workshop

7, 14, 21 & 28 Jan

Time: 10am – 3pm Place: Tembi Rumah Budaya Phone: 0274 368000 Admission: Free As a center of culture and activities, Tembi has a diverse collection of wooden masks, which are worth preserving. An exhibition will be held as well as a workshop for the public on how to engrave wooden masks. The workshop is free, and the organizer will provide the raw materials for all participants.

Grebeg Maulud

Time: 9am - 7pm Place: Solo, Jogja and Pacitan Phone: 085643081902 Admission: Rp. 2,950K /person (plane tickets not included) Solo, Jogja and Pacitan, are three fine cities that are close to each other and offer unique cultural experiences, worth immortalizing with photos. A three-day fun trip to these locations will be held for photography enthusiasts. In Solo, the participants will be taken to Cengklik reservoir to capture the beauty of the sunset. While in Pacitan, participants will be guided to Klayar beach. In Jogja, they will be aiming the camera at the magnificent Borobudur temple.

Javanese Classic Dance

Every wednesday & Saturday

Time: 4 - 05.30pm Place: Kedaton Royal Ambarrukmo Phone: 0274 488488 Admission: Free A dancing class to preserve Javanese classic dance and bring them up as a part of modern society at large. Royal Ambarukmo Hotel accomodates dance communities from all over Jogja and welcome everybody to get together in learning the elegance of Javanese classic dance.

Jazz at Via Via (Friday Night Jazz)

Every Friday

Time: 8 - 11 pm Place: Via Via Café and Resto Jl. Prawirotaman 30 Phone: 0274 386557 Admission: Free The meeting between Western and Eastern cultures always creates something unique. This weekly Jazz set entitled “East Meets West” happens every Friday at 8pm until 11pm in Via Via Cafe. Enjoy the live music performances while having some drinks with friends.

Masangin Challenge

Everyday

Time: 7pm Place: Alun-Alun Kidul Phone: Admission: Free One of the main attractions in the south square of Jogja is Masangin. This is a game where you have to walk in between two banyan trees in the middle of the square with your eyes closed. Everybody who manages to get through it, according to Javanese wisdom, will have their wishes come true.

Although it looks easy, many people unwittingly walk away from the right path.

14 Jan

Time: 8pm Place: Kraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat Phone: Admission: Free The biggest Grebeg event, of the three that occur each year, will be held once again by the Sultan’s Palace, as a symbol of gratitude to God for the gift of a bountiful harvest. This time, there will be seven mountain-shaped towers of food paraded on the square, while being grabbed by audience members, since the food is believed to bring good fortune for those who manage to grab some. The seven food mountains will be placed in three different locations: the big mosque in Kauman, Puro Pakualaman and the governor ‘s office (Kepatihan).

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17 - 19 Jan

Kemilau Indonesia: Solo, Jogja, Pacitan Journey

Ramayana Ballet

Everyday

Time: 6 - 9:30pm Place: Open Air Theater, Purawisata, Yogyakarta Phone: 0274 375705 / 0274 380643 Admission: Rp. 250K (Performance Only) Ramayana ballet tells the great love story of Rama and Shinta, originiating from the epic Indian story. The ballet has been performed nightly for 25 years continuously by Pura Wisata Open Air Theatre, which brought them to get an award from the Guinness Book of Indonesia Records (MURI) in 2001. The performance also comes with a dinner package in a beautiful garden restaurant with Javanese ambience.

january 2014

CTO

TOURIST DIRECTORY car & bike rentals

spas & salons

ViaVia Jl. Prawirotaman 30 Tel. 0274 386557 Class: Yoga, Batik, Indonesian language & Silver craftmanship Alam Bahasa Indonesia Jl. Cendrawasih, Kompleks Kolombo 3 Tel. 0274 589631 Class: Indonesian Language

Jl. Mrican Baru C-3 Moses Gatotkaca, Gejayan Tel. 0274 563203 / 0274 6533765 Mobile. 081578760645 Pit_pancal@yahoo.com www.bambstrans.com

Inna Garuda Hotel Jl. Malioboro No. 60 Tel. 0274 561155 (Hunting) 566353 Ext.156 Fax. 0274 516769 www.barumun-money.co.id

Pamitran Motorbike Rental Ruko Mrican Baru blok 1B Tel. 0274 6666610 / 0274 520545

Mulia Bumi Arta Ambarukmo Plaza, LG Floor Jl. Laksda Adi Sucipto Km. 6 Tel. 0274 4331272

Dewata Motorbike Rental Jl. Prawirotaman 27 Tel. 0274 384389 / 08122788056

PT. DOLLAR CENTER Jl. Pasar Kembang No.23 Tel. 0274 587648

Hafa Car Rental Jl. Prawirotaman MG III/634 Tel. 0274 384444

PT. INTAN ARTHA SENTOSA Jl. Malioboro No. 18 Suryatmajan, Danurejan Tel. 0274 565279

Trac - Astra Rent A Car Jl. Ring Road Utr 27-A Sinduadi Tel. 0274 625000 Fortuna Car & Motorbike Rental Jl. Jlagran Lor 20-21, Pringgokusuman Tel. 0274 564680

ticketing agents MGP TRAVELINDO Jl Demangan No.7 Caturtunggal, Depok Tel. 0274 8261986 Mitra Persada Travelindo Jl. Pringgondani No. 1 Demangan Tel. 0274 511100 Nusantara tour & travel Jl. Urip Sumoharjo No. 77 C Tel. 0274 560988 / 0274 518088 TURINDO TOUR AND TRAVEL Jl. Dr. Sutomo No.45 Tel. 0274 540000 / 0274 566629 Alam Persada Tour & Travel Jl. Gondosuli 10, Baciro Tel. 0274 546828

Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar No. 203 D Yogyakarta (North of Hyatt Hotel) Tel. 0274 6615454 / 087837095454 Open Daily: 10am - 10pm (Last order 8pm) Bujangga Beauty Salon & Spa Jl. Prawirotaman 1 No. 11B Tel. 08873805671

ratu ayu spa Jl. Palagan Tentara Pelajar 203 D North of Hyatt Hotel Tel. 0274 2633705 Sari Kartika Spa Jl. Tirtodipuran, No.49 Tel. 0274 411160 Indraloka Spa Jl. Kartini 14A, Sagan Tel. 0274 953 3388 Daun Spa & Salon Jl. Dewi Sri no. 40C Tirtonirmolo Tel. 0274 315 4040

courses

Satu Dunia Jl. Prawirotaman 1 No.44 & No.27 Tel. 0274 8527888 / 08139267888 Cakra tour & travel Jl. Sosrowijayan No. 54 Tel. 0274 545334 / 0274 9125008 Kelana tour & travel Jl. Prawirotaman II No. 836 Tel. 0274 7823132 Rizma Corp YAP Square B.8 Tel. 0274 552323 ViaVia Jl. Prawirotaman 30 Tel. 0274 386557 Javaindo tours Brontokusuman MG III/349 Tel. 0274 6677111 Kresna Tour & Travel Jl. Prawirotaman no. 5 Tel. 0274 375912 Mekar Wisata Tour & Travel Jl. Seturan 5A Tel. 0274 486620

money changers Annas Money Changer Jl. Prawirotaman No. 7 Tel. 0274 418456 intra valas Airport Adisucipto Yogyakarta, Arrival Hall Tel. 0274 6934861 Mendut Valasindo Hotel Abadi Jl. Pasar Kembang No. 49 Tel. 0274 582506

Centris Raya Taxi Tel. 0274 7111111 / 0274 4362221

PAMUnGKAS Tel. 0274 521333 Pataga Tel. 0274 386713 RAJAWALI Tel. 0274 487676 RIA Tel. 0274 621056 Sadewa Tel. 0274 414343 Setia Kawan Taxi Tel. 0274 412000 Vetri Taxi Tel. 0274 563555

visa agents Rizma Corp YAP Square B.8 Tel. 0274 552323

ANSOR’S SILVER PUSAT Jl. Tegalgendu No.26 Kotagede Tel. 0274 373266 Class: Silver craftmanship Batik Indah RARA DJONGGRANG Jl. Tirtodipuran 18 Tel. 0274 375209 Fax. 0274 378653 Class: Batik painting BINTORO CRAFT Jl. Tirtonirmolo, Bangunjiwo, Bantul Tel. 08985026809 Class: Pottery IFI-LIP Yogyakarta Jl. Sagan No. 3 Tel. 0274 547409 Fax. 0274 562140 Class: French language SANGGAR SENI WIRABUDAYA Jomegatan 240, Ngestiharjo Tel. 0274 380263 Class: Gamelan & Karawitan

Mitra Persada Travelindo Jl. Pringgondani No. 1 Demangan Tel. 0274 511100 Fax. 0274 541402

It’s Easy Tour & Travel Jl. Tirtodipuran 51 Tel. 0274 2672386

Class: Bahasa Spanyol Jl. Kapuas No. 1 (Jl. Perumnas Seturan) Tel. 0274 7870653 (Paloma Cascales: 087839771758) Email: aulamadrid.yogya@gmail.com

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bars & clubs ASCOS ASMARA ART AND COFFEE SHOP Jl. Tirtodipuran 22 Tel. 0274 383143

ACCOMODATIONS

EasyGoIn’ Restaurant & Cafe Jl. Prawirotaman No. 12 Tel. 0274 384092 Lucifer Cafe Jl. Sosrowijayan 71 Tel. 08159745554

Cafe & Lounge

Simple homestay

South Parking Area Inna Garuda Hotel Jl. Malioboro No. 60

MELATI DUA Jl. Tirtodipuran, No. 51 Tel. 0274 372481 Hp: 081392623152

Tel./Fax. 0274 560853 positivarepublic@gmail.com facebook.com/Republic Positiva Cafe & Lounge twitter.com/Rep_Positiva

the Wayang Homestay Jl. Minggiran, Gg. Pisang, No. 1017 Tel. 0813292240645 Maharani guest house Jl. Parangtritis, Gg. Sartono MJ. III, No. 811 Tel. 0274 411452

Liquid Next Generation Jl. Magelang, Km. 5,5 Tel. 0274 622020 / 0274 623698

Amelia Hotel Jl. Mrican Baru 14 Tel. 0274 554303

Bosche VVIP Club Jl. Magelang, Km. 6,5 Tel. 0274 623848 / 0274 624041

Srengenge Sribitan, RT.01, Bangun Jiwo, Bantul Tel. 081917316547

Rasta Bar & Cafe Jl. Parangtritis, 67B Tel. 0274 371578

Venezia Homestay & Garden Jl. Surami, No. 55 Tel. 0274 373821

TERRACE CAFE Jl. Raya Seturan 4, Catur Tunggal, Depok Tel. 0274 4332931

Cempaka Homestay Jl. Cempaka Putih CT.X No.23, Deresan Tel. 085643151757 Kresna Hotel Jl. D.I. Panjaitan 52 Tel. 0274 373303

Want to Write? cso@jogjastar.com Advertise With Us Tel. 0274 7436052 cso@jogjastar.com

ESSENTIALS Jogja Call Center 0274 108 Fire Department 0274 113 / 7474704 Tourism Police 0274 110 / 562811 ext.1222 Immigration Office 0274 489252 Jogja International Hospital 0274 4463555 / 4463444

Nusantara tour & travel Jalan Urip Sumoharjo No. 77 C Tel. 0274 560988 / 0274 518088 Fax. 0274 518010 / 0274 546066 Satu Dunia Jl. Prawirotaman 1 No.44 & No.27 Tel. 0274 8527888 / 08139267888

Bening Guesthouse Samirono Lama CT.VI/22 Tel. 0274 583197

Tiga Lima homestay Jl. Affandi Kepuh Gg III/946, Gejayan Tel. 0274 564772

Indra Kelana Taxi Tel. 0274 564572 JAS Tel. 0274 373737

Hotel Familia residence Jl. Bausasran DN III/949 Tel. 0274 562638

Bintang Cafe Jl. Sosrowijayan 54 Tel. 08191555105

Sayana Spa Jl. Prawirotaman No. 23 Tel. 0274 386050

taxis tour operators

Global Art Jl Laksda Adi Sucipto, Km 6, No. 15 Tel. 0274 7475663 Class: Painting and Arts

Casaluna Spa Jl. Patehan Lor 15 Alun Alun Kidul Tel. 0274 372933

trend tour &travel Jl. Kusumanegara no.214B Tel. 0274 377111

Pamitran Ruko Mrican Baru blok 1B Tel. 0274 6666610 / 0274 520545

Wisma Bahasa Jl. Affandi, Gang Bromo No. 15A, Mrican Tel. 0274 561627 / 0274 520 341 Class: Indonesian and Javanese Language

Mawar Asri Hotel Jl. K.H Agus Salim 40 Ngampilan Tel. 0274 387956

Adisucipto Airport 0274 488882 / 566666 Indonesian Red Cross 0274 372176

Giwangan Bus Station 0274 410015 Jombor Bus Station 0274 623310 Tourism Information 0274 588025 Emergency Call 0274 112 Ambulance 0274 118 Search & Rescue(SAR) 0274 115 / 587559 Tugu Train Station 0274 512870 / 514270 / 589685

january 2014

CITY MAP

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