Town & Country - Sarah Mudlock

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Country We sent two put-upon reporters to Portugal – one for a city break, one for a seaside adventure. Sarah Modlock reports on the culture and society of Lisbon and Estoril, while Chris Sullivan is the action man of the Algarve ● When you DREAM about weekend escapes close to home, chances are you’re imagining visions of the West Country, Scotland or – at a pinch – France. So it was a revelation to learn that Portugal is not just for golfers and you can be in Lisbon in a couple of hours – about the time it takes to get, ooh, halfway down the M3 on a Friday afternoon.

With its eclectic blend of neighbourhoods and rich cultural offerings, you can take in much of Lisbon’s charms comfortably in a couple of afternoons. An organised walking tour is ideal for first timers here; it draws you into magnificent churches and gives a great insight into the city’s history and diverse culture. Tram tours are also a relaxing way to negotiate the city. But take time to wander in the sunshine, and you’ll find winding cobbled streets, local colour and the best pavement cafés. Even the graffiti excels: “Tourists: respect Portugal’s quiet or go to Spain”.

Looking down over the city is Saint George’s Castle, a must-see. Its oldest parts date from the sixth century when it was fortified by the Romans, Visigoths, and eventually the Moors. Portugal’s first king Afonso Henriques captured the castle in 1147 with the help of northern European 56 | September 2008

crusaders on their way to the Holy Land, and it was dedicated to England’s St George to commemorate the Anglo-Portuguese pact.

If only we could point to a similar tribute in England. A wander through the courtyards and ruins here provides incredible views across the whole of the city. If you book in advance

Just 20 minutes from Lisbon is the unspoilt town of Estoril. Think St Tropez – but without the noise and bling the sun-dappled outdoor tables of Casa do Leão (+351 21 887 5962) are perfect for lunch. Enjoy a panoramic view of the city and its fabled hills as you sip excellent Portuguese wine and plan your visit to the coast.

20 minutes by car or pretty train ride from Lisbon is the unspoilt harbour town of Estoril. Think St Tropez – but without the noise and bling. Owing to a Mediterranean-

style microclimate, the Estoril coast has mild winters and an ideal summer temperature that never gets too hot. The autumn here is like a second spring. Named ‘the Coast of Kings’, this area became home to Europe’s 19th- and 20th-century refugee royals and aristocrats – and attracted World War II spies who made good use of the network of fishing boats to move along the Riviera for ‘work purposes’.

In the evenings, they all mingled in the famous casino, said to be the largest in Europe and the inspiration for Ian Fleming’s Casino Royale – he played Le Chiffre-types many times here with British naval intelligence officers, German spies and local businessmen.

Playing the tables here is best – in common with most casinos, the food is little more than predictable. Instead, head across the road to the excellent restaurant Costa do Estoril which serves a large variety of fresh grilled fish and authentic Portuguese food in a relaxed atmosphere with warm service. The bar here is open until 6am so night owls can peoplewatch as the steady stream of gamblers come to celebrate wins or drown their sorrows.

Follow further in Fleming’s footsteps by staying at the Hotel Palácio Estoril, a luxury five-star hotel that boasts beautifully ❱❱ squaremileclub.com

king of the castles: the Palácio de Pena, Sintra, is regarded as the finest expression of 19thcentury Romanticism and is a Unesco World Heritage Site

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chris sullivan in action

rise and shine: Cabo da Roca’s lighthouse on the Atlantic coast near Sintra – mainland Europe’s westernmost point

❱❱ landscaped gardens and sea views. The charming manager, Mr Correa de Barros, will show you the Bond creator’s registration document from his stay in May 1941 and tell magical tales of the hotel’s time as a hotbed of espionage. “There were so many international spies in Estoril at the time that all a journalist had to do to find out who had won a key battle in the war was to telephone the hotel’s concierge,” he explains. “If the Germans were celebrating in the bar, things weren’t looking good. If the British agents were popping corks, the headline would be more upbeat. The press agencies called it the ‘champagne news’.” The hotel even makes an appearance in the Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Happily, it has been updated since then and offers comfortable bedrooms and fresh, elegant lounges, plus a large, sundrenched swimming pool and dining terrace.

For those looking for more strenuous activities than raising a glass or a leisurely lunch by the sea, there is plenty to see and do locally, including golf as well as racing at the famous MotoGP circuit. Nearby Cascais is famed for its beautiful sandy beaches, 58 | September 2008

bristling marina (which hosted the World Championships last year), flower-filled parks and chic, cobbled streets; perfect for an afternoon of shopping and meandering.

Take a boat trip along the coast and visit Cabo da Roca, the most western point of mainland Europe. Lunch at Porto de Santa Maria (portosantamaria.com) on the beach is a treat to be savoured – an upmarket seafood favourite for around 30 years, it has had a Michelin star for 25 of them. Its reputation is such that it draws locals and tourists – including Bill Clinton – from miles around.

The crowning glory in this part of the world, though, has to be Sintra. As you drive into the mountains, the warm beaches melt into cool, cloud-covered forests. Hidden among the trees are castles and palaces with original artefacts from the time when they were the summer retreats of the royal family.

Nearby, the restaurant Cantinho de São Pedro (cantinhosaopedro.com) serves fabulous fresh fish dishes; it makes the perfect spot for lunch before heading back into the city and back to the hotel. Just in time for a shaken martini or two, in fact. ■ –Sarah Modlock

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If you want to make the most of a day or the whole weekend, local travel agent João Henriques can arrange customised trips focusing on or combining sport, culture, gastronomy and wine-tasting, sailing, nature reserves and even close encounters with local fishermen or James Bondstyle car chases and powerboat trips.

His company, TOW – Travel Our Way – prides itself on showing Lisbon off the tourist trail and can arrange everything from travel and hotels to restaurant bookings and excursions. tow.pt TAP Portugal has five daily flights from London Heathrow to Lisbon from £112 return (inc tax) and one daily flight from London Gatwick from £103 return (inc tax). 0845 601 0932, flytap.com Rooms in the Palácio Estoril Hotel cost from £320 until 31 October. palacioestorilhotel.com For further information on Portugal and Estoril call the Portuguese National Tourist Office, 0845 355 1212, visitportugal.com.

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● I never thought I’d find myself looking down at the sea, hanging from a pencil-thick rope while climbing a 100ft vertical limestone rock face. Then again, I’d never contemplated kayaking for three hours against the battering swell of the famously cold Atlantic or ‘hanging ten’ atop a surfboard. But after a long weekend in the western Algarve I had accomplished all three, thrown in a bit of golfing, some spa action and sampled some of the best food and wine on God’s green earth.

The location of my rebirth as an extremesport thrill-seeking, adrenaline-fuelled buzz junkie was the Parque da Floresta golf and leisure resort. Just an hour from Faro airport, it’s located on the edge of the Costa Vincentina Nature Reserve and offers every type of luxury accommodation from cottages to sumptuous five-star villas with private pools – all of which can be rented or bought.

The first thing I did on my arrival was make a fool of myself on the golf range, hitting things that had never been hit by a golf ball before. Indeed, in another situation I might have been applauded for my marksmanship.

Then, after a sauna and a portion of the region’s quite remarkable sea food at A Taberna – one of the resort’s many restaurants – it was up early and off to climb the rock face under the tutelage of the patient chaps at Extreme Algarve, who not only offer all of the above, but also scuba diving, wake boarding, microlighting, skydiving and sailing.

At first I was rubbish. But after getting over my abject humiliation, I was soon up there like a puffin scrambling over cliff-side outcrops. I’d always been baffled as to why men climb mountains, but suddenly I saw the light. Not only is it fun but it’s also a proper physical workout that uses every darn muscle you own. And though you might think the sheer height off-putting, the mental conundrum of finding where to put your feet next soon overtakes any fears. Then suddenly you are at the top – sweating but exhilarated.

And that was just the morning.

Next up was the sea kayaking. In direct contrast to climbing I thought this would be a doddle. I had kayaked before and done whitewater rafting – but going against the tide in the freezing cold water while synchronising your paddling with an utterly inexperienced partner is like banging a nail into concrete with your tongue. But we gave it a go and so proceeded from Battista beach around the beautiful Lagos Coast, passing astounding rock formations and almost impossibly scenic squaremileclub.com

grottos. All went swimmingly for about 17 seconds until my kayaking partner for the day lost the beat – her paddles colliding with mine, banging me in the head, splashing me with water – and there was no other option than to call halt and start again.

“One paddle, two paddle!” I bellowed like a latter day Captain Bligh. Though we capsized three times, the ice-cold water taking our breath away in great big gobs, we eventually arrived back amazed and exhausted, yet feeling curiously marvellous at the same time.

We had achieved the impossible and while every muscle ached, it was a good ache.

We had achieved the impossible – while every muscle ached it was a good ache Now all that was needed was a steam, a massage and a good dinner. A Eire Do Mel is one of those bucolic local restaurants that you stumble upon very rarely but remember all your life. The specialité de la maison is the cataplana, a broad, domed copper pot, much like two woks together, that might contain rabbit, Atlantic prawns, chicken or clam – all cooked in garlic, white wine, thyme, parsley and olive oil. A stupendous regional dish, it tasted all the better for being washed down with the local vinho tinto, Quinta do Barranco Longo. And do try one of the

region’s local ports – the excellent Niepoort 2001 got my vote, for what it’s worth.

After all that exertion, Sunday called for relaxation – but when offered a round on Parque de Floresta’s superb golf course, who could refuse? And even though very much a novice who took all morning to beat his way through the 18 holes, by the time we finished I was hooked on the sport that I had previously derided – to the extent that I am now planning to buy my own clubs.

And that was the tale of the trip – I did things that I never thought I’d do but you can be sure I’ll try again. Visions of Irishtheme pubs and burger bars – like Blackpool during a heat wave – had always put me off the Algarve but this was an eye-opener. The perfect weekend destination, temperatures dip only to an average 13°C in January, rising to 28°C in August – and even in November you can bask in the very pleasant 18°C heat.

And it’s a family fiesta at Parque de Floresta – while sir goes off golfing, climbing or kayaking, one’s significant other can indulge in an arsenal of spa treatments (massage, body rubs and facials), while the kids – in the care of the resident child minders – play darts, pool, ten-pin bowling or enjoy some coaching at the resident football academy.

In short, everyone is happy – and you can bet your life that we were. ■ – Chris Sullivan Stay two weeks for the price of one at Parque da Floresta. 01223 307 088, vigia-resorts.com Activities: Extreme Algarve, extremealgarve. com. Fly direct to Faro with Monarch Airlines, starting from £41 one-way (£73 return) 0871 225 3884, monarch.co.uk.

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