Cumberland Gap, Tennessee
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We’ve said from the very beginning of our travel journey that we’re trying to live out our grand adventure. Well, y’all, we really pushed the ‘adventure’ part to the limit and it’s pretty grand... Since our last issue of Here, There & Everywhere, we’ve actually only been on one trip. Say what?! We’re always on the road, right? Well, after a six day stop in Cumberland Gap, Tennessee our lives sort of did a flip-a-roo. Long story short, everything came together like the edges of a puzzle, and we packed up our Florida lives and moved to Kentucky. Yepp. We moved to Kentucky, y’all! We cannot begin to express how incredibly grateful we are to everyone who made this move AND this magazine possible. Our hearts are full, and we are so excited to share the beauty of this region we now call home. Appalachia is filled with stunning nature trails, unreal mountain views, Southern hospi-
tality, and boat loads of history around every corner. We have yet to scratch the surface of all this area has to offer, but thanks to an incredible group of people known as the Guardians of the Gap, we were able to get a little taste of the beauty and the history. That’s what we’re sharing with you in this issue. We also have some new faces gracing these pages with great recipes and thrilling stories of Appalachia and the Cumberland Valley region. It’s a great one, and we’re excited you decided to explore with us. As always, we’re incredibly humbled by your support, and grateful for every single one of you. Thanks for coming along on our grand adventure.
YIELD: 4 loaves OVEN: 350˚ 1 cup unsalted butter, softened 3 cups sugar 6 large eggs 3 cups sour cream 4 tsp baking soda 4-5 over-ripe bananas, mashed 1 tsp salt ½ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp nutmeg 5 cups flour Chopped pecans or English walnuts (optional) 1. Cream together butter, sugar and eggs. 2. Mix sour cream and baking soda together in a separate bowl and let stand until foamy. 3. Mash bananas. 4. Sift together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. 5. Combine all of the ingredients in a large mixing bowl and mix well. 6. Pour into four greased and floured 9x5 inch bread pans and bake approximately 60 minutes at 350˚ or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Helen was my “other mother.” My bonus. My blessing. My gift from God. My husband Glenn is a widower, and when he married Helen’s daughter, Sheila, he became Helen’s son. Helen never let him go, and when he married me, I became part of her family, as did each of our children as we met and eventually adopted them. Helen was an amazing woman. She was a long-time widow, raising two girls and two boys alone. She was loving, kind and thoughtful and never had a harsh word to say. She exhibited a heart of hospitality as she welcomed me with open arms and included our whole family in hers. Her home was the place to be for Sunday dinner and every holiday. Never comfortable driving, Helen often walked to
work in the bakery at the local grocery store. When we were in town, I typically drove her to and from work. I remember going into the store – on more than one occasion – and hearing, “Oh! You’re Helen’s…” (The rest of the sentence would have been “daughter” or “daughter in law,” but nothing really fit.) I always just smiled and said, “Yes. I’m Helen’s.” Helen shared a version of this Banana Bread recipe with me and it changed my life! Well, it changed my banana bread baking life! Our Blessings on State Bed & Breakfast guests love it. The addition of sour cream provides a moist texture and enhances the flavor. I encourage you to give it a try – and think of Helen, my “other mother” with the gift of hospitality.
Lancaster, Kentucky
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Cumberland Gap, Tennessee
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Willow Bend Farm ................. 6 Lancaster ................................... 12
About The Gap ...................... 16 Main Street .............................. 19 Antiques .................................. 20 Gap Creek Coffee ................ 21 Angelo’s .................................... 27 Olde Mill Inn ............................ 29 Ghost Tour ............................... 34 Middlesboro, KY .................... 38 Pineville, KY ............................. 44 Harlan, KY ................................. 48 Lee County, VA ...................... 52 LMU ............................................. 56 Norris Lake, TN ...................... 60
Special Features
Appalachian Tale .................. 66 Greece ........................................ 70 A Shooting in Speedwell . 72 LINKS .......................................... 77
fter traveling the US full-time for over a year, we’ve seen almost every kind of terrain in the country. We’ve explored the desert in Arizona. We’ve blended into the hustle and bustle of the Big Apple. We’ve probably wandered the streets of more small towns in America than most. So, we thought it was safe to say we’d seen it all. No town or bed and breakfast could blow our minds, because ‘been there done that’, right? WRONG. 6
This spring we found ourselves in the rolling hills of Kentucky at yet another B&B. The scenery couldn’t possibly have been more stunning, and the house was perfectly set atop a grassy hill. It was like something out of a painting. Our hosts, Karen and Herb, welcomed us with bright smiles and brownies, which is definitely the quickest way to our hearts. We spent that first night chatting, eating, and relaxing at Willow Bend Farm. The next day was when we really got to experience what makes Willow Bend unique. It’s not your typical bed and breakfast. It’s called a farm stay, and it allows you to enjoy the best parts of farm life. You can spend time by the pond, catching and releasing some catfish. You can ride the tractor around the grounds, and Herb may even let
you drive it. The best part, though, is probably the animals you’ll get to spend time with. Willow Bend Farm has two mini horses named Gunney and Shooter; eight donkeys, Willow, Sadie, Sophie, Maddie, Maggie, BeauJack, Sherman and Ollie; a draft horse named Bob; Penny the pet cow; Willie the barn cat, and the resident farm dog, Huck Finn. It was like we were in heaven, y’all! We hung out with all of the animals without having to shovel poop.
We spent one entire afternoon feeding the animals. Joanie B. drove the tractor. I rode around in the hay trailer in the back. It all just felt like the
most beautiful and peaceful dream. We didn’t want the day to end. But, when it did eventually end, we
walked the stairs to our room and slept in the complete and total silence. It was unreal! Willow Bend Farm is paradise in all the right ways. Herb and Karen’s grandson hit the bullseye when he said... you can breathe. When you stand in the lush green fields, it feels like you’re breathing for the first time. Like your lungs have never been so fulfilled. We’ve gone on and on about what’s outside, but what about what’s inside Willow Bend? It operates as a fairly traditional B&B inside. Herb and Karen have created a beautiful space where people can feel comfortable. There are two suites, both of which are located on the second floor. The Magnolia Suite has two bedrooms, one with a King and the other with a Queen bed. Magnolia has comfy furniture inside the room.
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It also has a separate room just for lounging, complete with sofa and TV. All of the rooms are connected via a private hallway, including the bathroom shared by the suite’s two rooms. We stayed in the incredible Camellia Suite, and our minds were blown. It has more than 1000 square feet of space. A King and Queen bed, the comfiest sofa, closet space, a private living room, coffee bar, and a private back staircase. Camellia was practically an entire home, and we didn’t
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want to leave. Both suites are incredibly beautiful and comfortable for couples, families, and even friends traveling together.
Every morning you’ll receive the most delicious breakfast. We had everything from waffles to fresh muffins and fruit to perfectly cooked eggs
and potatoes. It was all delicious. If you have any food restrictions, tell Karen and Herb ahead of time and they would be happy to accomodate you. Our time in Lancaster was well spent, and we felt right at home at Willow Bend. Thank you to Karen and Herb for hosting us and making us feel like family from the moment we walked in. If you want to book a stay at Willow Bend Farm (and you definitely do), you can visit their website, which is linked on our reference page at the back of the magazine. The property does not allow pets, but you’ll get plenty of snuggles and pet loving with Huck Finn, Willie, Bob, and the whole crew. The most important thing to remember: you can’t take any of them with you. Bummer, I know.
Lancaster, Kentucky is located in the area of Kentucky known as the Blue Grass region. Established in 1797 at the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains, Lancaster became the cross roads for the region since it sits close to Richmond, Danville,
Somerset and Berea. Our adventures downtown allowed us to experience hometown pride and a community that felt like family. You know Jenni and I love shopping, especially at cute local boutiques in small town America. Lancaster did not disappoint with Southern Roots Boutique. The selection of styles got us excited for summer, and the size range allowed women of all shapes to find something they felt comfortable in. We both left with a couple of cute dresses and accessories that we’ve been wearing ever since. Jenni and I had the opportunity to enjoy a
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delicious breakfast at Whole Latte Love. Tisha Bristow and her son have really created a place to come and enjoy amazing food and lots of fun conversation. We enjoyed talking with the numerous locals that filled the cute café. Jenni and I loved hearing different stories of the area and the people that make it what it is. It was evident that Tisha had created a very special place where the community felt at home. A place filled with warmth and love that allows people to celebrate life’s greatest moments and mourn the most difficult. A place for friends to come together and just talk about life. If every town could have a Whole Latte Love, the world would be a better place for all of us. When you’re visiting the Blue Grass Region of Kentucky, make sure you take some time to visit Lancaster. Willow Bend Farm offers the perfect accomodations for your stay. Southern Roots Boutique is one of many adorable shops you can enjoy. Whole Latte Love
has your coffee and breakfast needs covered. Then, if you’re looking for a bite for dinner, Bradford BBQ offers some great options. Moral of the story: Small Town America is the heart and soul of everything this country was intended to be. People caring for one another deeply, and coming together for all of life’s moments.
ou would think that after visiting thirty-six states and twenty countries, that we would have become accustomed to visiting paradise. Places like Key West or Venice fit pretty beautifully into the picture of paradise, right? You would expect to find something unreal there. Something stunning and unique. You would expect to fall in love with those places. But sometimes finding paradise is a lot more unexpected. On Wednesday, January 13th, we received a message through our blog from a guy named Tony saying we needed to take a road trip to some place called Cumberland Gap. Never heard of it. But sure, we’ll road trip anywhere. We were excited, but we were planning so many huge trips for 2021 that Cumberland Gap wasn’t at the forefront of our minds. Little did we know, Tony and a group known as the ‘Guardians of the Gap’ were planning the most incred16
ible adventure for Joanie and Jenni B. We drove through the beautiful roads of Kentucky and Tennessee, and hit the ground running as soon as we arrived in The Gap. We had an incredible group of people taking us around downtown Cumberland Gap, introducing us to every business owner and sharing their own personal stories about the area. From that first moment, that first interaction with Tony in person, we felt something. It was kind of like a small shock of static electricity. Just enough to make us stop and think, “Wow. This place is really something.” When we travel, we’re normally in a town for three days. Tony said three days just wouldn’t work. He needed six. We immedietly went to Google Maps to see just how big this Cumberland Gap was. Six days?! That was insane. The next several pages will be a written version of the adventure we had. Sit back, relax, and walk the Gap with us. We hope that we’ll be able to make you feel at least a fraction of what we did on this crazy trip.
Our first minutes in Cumberland Gap weren’t wasted. We were given our day one itinerary and started our adventure. The first stop was the Little Congress Bicycle Museum. It’s free admission for the public and the curator, Judge (yes, he’s a real judge!), knows just about everything you could want to know about bicycles. He’s collected them for more than forty years, and has been riding them longer than that. With that passion he has creat-
ed something absolutely fascinating. His collection is ever-changing, but while we were there we saw a Hopalong Cassidy special edition bike, a 1968 Lemon Peeler, a 1950 Monark Super Deluxe in Strato Blue, and so many more. After the Bicycle Museum, we explored some of the downtown Cumberland Gap shops like the Artist Co-Op where artists from all around the area sell their work. They have everything from paintings to t-shirts. We were able to meet a couple of the artists, and the common inspiration denominator seemed to be the beau-
ty of this Cumberland Valley area. We certainly weren’t surprised by that. If you purchase art that isn’t framed, The Frame Shop is just down the street. Steve takes pride in every piece, and works with you on selecting colors for the matte and the frame. He also sells some stunning pieces by area photographers and artists. One of our favorite stops was Flour Baby’s Bakery. The owner, Kayla Owens, bakes fresh, scratch-made sweets daily and they are always changing. Brownies. Cookies. Wedding cakes. All things sweet and delicious can be found at Flour Baby’s Bakery, and we are certain everything is delicious. Flour Baby’s actually just celebrated it’s second birthday. Kayla, just now in her early twenties, has created something special based around the memories she had with her mom and grandmother. Family recipes and pastries made with love. There will be many, many more birthdays for Flour Baby’s Bakery. Once we had a box filled with delicious sweet treats, the Guardians took us into Papa Chum’s, a local father-son owned music shop. We walked in and marveled at the wall of guitars. Some of which owner, Dan Chumley, created with cigar boxes. The selection of instruments is incredible, and in the back of Papa Chum’s there’s a small recording studio where many artists have cut their records. Dan’s son (and co-owner), Daniel, 17
recorded a CD in their studio and it’s available for purchase in-store and online. While we were there, we didn’t record the next hit single (you’re welcome), but we did get to have a little bit of fun. Papa Chum himself put some ukeleles in our hands and Daniel taught us a few chords. Are we professional uke’ players now? Not by a long shot. But I think it’s pretty evident by Joanie B.’s face that we had a great time. This first day in Cumberland Gap didn’t feel real. We were walking around town with a group of people we had just met, and somehow it felt like we’d all been together for years. We felt connected with this town we knew absolutely
nothing about. At this point in the trip, we didn’t know how special this place was. We’d connected quickly with a lot of our Small Town America favorites. Being the anti-social butterfly that I am, I did my
best to soak in all of the conversations happening around me, interjecting when necessary, but holding onto my camera for dear life. Tony threw us head first into The Gap, and I was just hoping I would be able to keep up. You don’t get to see it on camera, and most people don’t see it in real life, but when I’m at the center of a group my heart is racing and I’m just waiting to say something stupid. It’s that good old buddy, Social Anxiety, always making himself known in moments when I need to turn the confidence on. But on this day, racing heart and all, there were moments that felt as smooth as Norris Lake. I can remember later in the afternoon, all of us sitting on the porch of the Estepp House, drinking frozen lemonade, that I actually found myself relaxed. My shoulders weren’t pushed back quite as far. I was sunken down a little deeper into my chair. And I was tasting every delicious sip of that lemonade. I was surrounded by strangers, but it didn’t seem so strange to me. With Linda, Phyllis, and Jerry, things didn’t feel very strange at all.
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Tony, the man who made this entire trip possible, and his partner, Joe, own several businesses in The Gap. First is Gertie’s Commissary. This was actually the first shop we explored. It is filled to the brim with vintage dresses, hats, dolls, and dishes. I loved looking at the clothes, because they were in better shape than any other antique stores I’d ever been in. If you’re not feeling like buying any antiques, Gertie’s also offers Guardians of the Gap and Cumberland Gap merchandise to commemorate your experience in the area.
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The other antique shop we got to explore is called Whisle Stop, and we dropped a few bucks there. We just couldn’t resist the unique
salt and pepper shakers. They had elephants, dogs, and even corn on the cob. Just like the vintage dresses in Gertie’s, I was fasinated by all of the dishes in Whistle Stop. Every color you can think of, they had glass bowls and plates and cups. You want a vintage cookie jar? How about ten? Are you a collector of unique vintage PEZ dispensers? You’re in luck. Whistle Stop has quite the assortment. All of them are priced better than you’ll find anywhere and in better condition than you’d expect. Gertie’s and Whistle Stop were both such fun shops. We could’ve spent hours exploring.
Tony and Joe also own the local coffeeshop, Gap Creek Coffee House, and that's where we stopped for lunch on day one. The pictures don't do it justice. It's just not possible to capture. You have to visit in order to see this coffeeshop situated beside a free flowing creek. And that creek is the water source for the region. It's bottled in the local Coca-Cola plant, but if you wanted to, you could dip your cup right into the creek. It's more than 90% pure straight from the source. If you don't want to dip a glass in, you can do what we did, and sit beside it while enjoying some delicious food and a latte from Gap Creek's
extensive menu. After visiting Gap Creek Coffee House many times, Joanie B. and I both have chosen our absolute favorite drinks and meals. Joanie B. loves the blackberry jam grilled cheese and the Zebra Strip latte (chocolate and white mocha). I will always order the chicken melt and the Maple Tree Bark latte (salted caramel, chocolate and marshmallow). But, in all honesty, you can't go wrong with anything on the menu. Just come, grab a seat by the creek, and enjoy the mountain views. The outside area of Gap Creek is pet friendly, and you'll see plenty of people with their dogs and tons of kids running around blowing the bubbles Gap Creek puts on the tables. It's such a great spot for the entire family. Once you settle in, you'll never want to leave.
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Back in the day, the building you see pictured to the left was a bank on the first level. The owner of the bank decided to make use of the second floor for different, less wholesome, endeavors. He turned it into a brothel so that when the mine workers came to cash their checks, they would go upstairs and spend them and make the good old banker some more money. Yikes! Now the building is home to the incredible Angelo’s in the Gap. It’s a delicious restaurant serving some of the best pizza and wings in the area. On our night at Angelo’s, we asked the owner, Kevin, to surprise us with his favorite menu items. We weren’t disappointed. He started us out with the garlic
balls, which are exactly what they sound like. Balls of pizza dough doused in garlic butter. For the main course we enjoyed the filet medallions with mac and cheese and green beans. We also had Angelo’s famous pork chop with grilled asparagus. The medallions were perfectly cooked and juicy. But the star of the show was that pork chop, y’all. Joanie B. and I are not huge pork eaters. If we go out, we’re not likely to choose a pork chop over a Ribeye or a grilled chicken breast. But Angelo’s has created a masterpiece with their jalapeño marinated and topped pork chops. They are hands down, no doubt, the best pork chops we have ever eaten. We’ve been back to Angelo’s at least half a dozen times just to enjoy one of those fantastic chops.
When our tour of town was finished, we were able to drop our bags into our home for the next six nights, the Olde Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast. The Inn has eight guest rooms with varying sizes, themes and amenities. We stayed in the Thomas Walker Annex, which has its own parking spot and private balcony. It’s the Inn’s newest and largest room and one of two pet friendly rooms. It was named after the first documented explorer to come through Cumberland Gap, Dr. Thomas Walker. It’s decorated to reflect Walker’s sense of adventure. The room has two Queen size beds, a large sitting area, corner desk, mini fridge, microwave, Keurig, and a mud room perfect for storing luggage. The Thomas Walker Annex can sleep up to five guests, and you’ll fall asleep listening to the sound of the
historic water wheel outside your window. Inside the main portion of the Inn there are two rooms on the first floor and six rooms on the second floor. The Cabin (first floor) is the second pet friendly room. It’s designed to look like a 1700s log cabin. There are no stairs needed to get to The Cabin, and the shower has a seat, making the room partially handicap accessible. The other first floor room is one of our favorites at the Inn. It’s called Nana’s, and it’s decorated with a bright sunflower theme. On the second floor you’ll find The Suite, Front Parlor, Creekside, Pinnacle (with the most gorgeous view), and Daniel Boone (featuring rustic bunk beds). All of the rooms are beautiful, and they include a delicious breakfast daily. Coffee starts brewing around 8:15 every morning, and
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breakfast is served between 9 and 9:15 at the dining room table. We ate so many delicious breakfasts at The Olde Mill, but our favorites often included a egg bake, fruit parfaits, and banana bread. Other favorites for guests are the stuffed French toast, blueberry pancake bake, and cheese grits. If you have a food allergy or other dietary restrictions, just let the staff know before arriving and they’ll do everything they can to accomodate your needs. Owner and Innkeeper, Kim, has created a true home-away-fromhome atmosophere for everyone to enjoy. During our stay, we had the incredible opportunity to have a private dinner at the Inn. It was catered by a new restaurant in Cumberland Gap called Nineteen19. The restaurant is owned by Chef Edward and his wife, Bernie, and their building is currently under construction. While it’s being updated and beautified on the inside, Chef and Bernie are running the Nineteen19 food truck every weekend, and practically selling out of food every day they open. Our exclusive dinner catered by Chef and Bernie was unbelievably delicious. We started with a fresh Asian salad with carrots,
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cabbage, peppers, fried wontons, and a homemade Asian vinaigrette. Joanie B. and I aren’t likely to order an Asian salad, but y’all! This salad was absolutely divine. I could’ve taken that whole bowl and enjoyed that as my entire meal. Although the food truck menu is ever changing, the Asian salad is an item that’s offered fairly regularly. Thank goodness! After that delicious salad, we had scratch-
made shrimp scampi and a side of spicy shrimp. Holy prawns! This stuff was out of this world. Everything tasted so fresh and you could taste the care and love in every single bite.
As if that wasn’t already the most fantastic menu, Chef finished the meal off with a meringue dessert served over a sweet custard and fresh fruit. When he brought it to the table,
we all had to stare at it for a while, because it was absolutely beautiful. Once we dove in, the meringue was light and complimented the sweet custard. The fruit added a nice pop of freshness and the kind of sweetness that can only come from perfectly ripe fruit. This dinner was served in The Olde Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast, but it felt like we were sitting around a friend’s dining room table. The
conversation flowed as smooth as the sweet tea. But that’s the power of a good atmosphere and great food, isn’t it? It brings people together in ways nothing else can. We spent several hours enjoying our dinner, sharing stories and laughter long after the last plate was cleared from the table. After we’d said our classic three or four goodbyes, Joanie B. and I settled back into the Thomas Walker Annex with full bellies and overflowing hearts. It was around this point in our trip when we realized that what had started as a fun trip in a place we’d never visited, was turning into something much deeper. As we sat on the sofa in our room, we were talking through all of the events of the days we’d had in The Gap. Then Joanie said something crazy. “I think I could live here.” I said something even crazier. “Me too.” In our two years of full time travel, we had said those words about very few places. Out of those select few, I had never felt as strongly about the idea as I did in that moment. Was it the bed and breakfast? Partially. Was it the shrimp scampi? Maybe. Was it the magic of The Gap? Absolutely.
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In almost every historic town in the United States you’ll find ghost tours out the wazoo. New Orleans has tours through cemeteries. Gettysburg has them on the battlefields. We’ve seen the advertisements. We’ve seen the buses. But
in all of our years of travel, we have never taken a single one. That was until our adventure in Cumberland Gap. When the sun went down on our first day, we congregated at the Olde Mill Inn with a group of strangers and a young woman with a lantern. It was time for the tour to commence. We’re not going to spoil the tour for you, because 34
it’s definitely something fun to do when you visit The Gap. However, here’s the short of it: The Cumberland Gap region was home to many dangerous occupations back in the day. It was teeming with coal mines, which meant countless fatalities. It was also the site of the Iron Furnace, where men would manually melt down the iron in a giant furnace in the woods. More than one person was killed either by the sheer weight of the metal or by the furnace itself. The workers in these professions were overworked and
grossly underpaid. So, when they died on the
job, their families were left with little to nothing to live off of. This made for many broken families and emotionally tortured people. So, the tour says, some of those people are still hanging around The Gap. Take the tour and decide for yourself. If the ghost tour isn’t your thing, you can wander into the woods and make your own adventure. In The Gap alone we took three hikes. The first took us to the Iron Furnace, which is a ginormous stone structure beside a waterfall. Tony took us on the adventure of a lifetime and had us climbing on rocks, walking over waterfalls, and hiking up a mountain. Cave tours are offered in this area, but we just peeked inside one of many. Then we made our way back down, taking in the views of the red buds and mountain mist. Our second hike was to the Pinnacle. We met Park Ranger Carol at the Cumberland Gap National Park Visitor’s Center, and she drove us up the mountain. So, we definitely took the easy way out on that one. The ‘hike’ was a tiny hill to the lookout point. People had been telling us since we arrived that the view would absolutely blow our minds. Some even said we would be able to see all the way to Chattanooga from up there. Often a cynic, all I could think was, “But it can’t be like the view from Top of the Rock in New York.” Or, “I bet it’s not as good as the castles along the Rhine.” When I stepped out onto the platform and caught my first glimpse of the full view, there was a moment when I was sure my heart stopped. I have never, in twenty-four years of life, seen anything like it. It was like the world opened up just for me, and like I was seeing everything for the very first time. I kept wondering if the sky had always been that blue or if the mountains had always been that tall. We stood at the edge of the viewing platform and Ranger Carol pointed out The Gap and we even took a second to wave down to Tony standing on the porch of Gap Creek Coffee House. We enjoyed the view of the rolling green hills of Harrogate, and the bustling traffic of the Interstate. From that one spot we could see into three different states: Tennessee, Virginia and Kentucky. Every one was right. That view was unbelievable. It wasn’t Central Park or the buildings of Manhattan. It wasn’t the Rhine or a grand German castles. It was different entirely. Incomparable to anything I’d seen before. And, trust me, I know it sounds so dramatic. Yeah, yeah, we’ve all seen mountains and valleys and blue skies before. Big whoop. 36
But it’s not just about the view. It’s about how it feels to stand on top of a mountain. It’s like you’re watching life move for everyone, but somehow you’re frozen in time. Holding onto that moment for as long as possible. Nothing else matters at the Pinnacle. It’s you and the view. I wanted to stand there and just stare all day, because I knew as soon as I walked away, I wouldn’t feel that way
anymore. I’d be back to thinking about all of life’s problems and stressing about things that didn’t matter. But at the Pinnacle, time stops for you. Enough about my love for the Pinnacle... Our third hike was on our last day in Cumberland Gap, and we hiked to the Three State Marker. This was the longest
hike we took on our trip, and possibly the most strenuous. It was about 1.5 miles each way, and all uphill on your way to the marker. For the most part it didn’t feel awful, but there were certainly spots where the incline reminded me that I need to work out more. After we made it up the last, and steepest part, of the hill, we were met with a glorious breeze and 360˚ views of pure beauty. The significance of this spot is that you can stand in three states at one time. Set under a covered platform is an emblem denoting your position in Tennessee, Kentucky and Virginia. Quite the Instagram spot for sure. There are also markers for each state positioned around the platform that make for great photo ops. On our hike, we had the perfect weather. Crisp blue skies and cotton ball clouds. We couldn’t have asked for anything more. These are just three hikes, but that doesn’t begin to scratch the surface of what Cumberland Gap and the surrounding region has to offer. While we drove to the Pinnacle, there are also several trails that you can walk for a more adventurous way to get there. The same goes for the Three State Marker. We took one of the more difficult trails, but there are other options coming from Kentucky and Virginia if you want different scenery. These trails are all part of the famous Wilderness Road, made popular by explorer Daniel Boone. Think of all of the people who walked those same trails before us. Native Americans. Settlers and pioneers. Civil War soldiers. Both the Confederacy and the Union occupied the area at different times, and it was thought to be a great battleground. However, the terrain proved to be too difficult, so no battles were ever fought in the Cumberland Gap region. The history of this area is more extensive than we could ever tell you. Sure, you can do research. But why not come on down and experience the history for yourself? 37
ocated right at the entrance to Cumberland Gap National Park is the town of Middlesboro, Kentucky. Middlesboro has had quite a long and colorful history, starting with the location. It sits right in the center of a meteor crater. Now, you might think that’s a pretty hokey story. But numerous geolo-
gists from around the world have come to Middlesboro to study the rocks and soil. There are documented specimens proving the happening. In Middlesboro Country Club you can actually see one of the meteor rocks that shows through the surface of the ground. It’s said that you could take a hammer to that rock and the hammer would break. That specific spot has been a hot one for geologists to take samples. Another interesting fact about Middlesboro is that when the town was established, it was supposed to be the next Pittsburgh and the Las Vegas of the South. The potential of high steel production was what encouraged the establishment of Middlesboro as a town for entertaining the wealthy. Bars. Luxury lodging. The whole nine-yards. However, the steel in38
dustry folded just as quickly as it flourished and the town of Middlesboro was left to die. It never reached the potential the founders intended. Even with difficult beginnings, the people of Middlesboro chose not to give up. They made the necessary pivots in expectations, and remained strong and persistent. Even if Middlesboro couldn’t be a metropolis, it could still be a destination. Nature and history are things that will bring people to the area. However, the people and beautiful sound of the mountains is what makes them
want to visit again and again. Or, it may even make people uproot their entire lives, pack all of their belongings into a Uhaul, and move from the beaches of Florida to Kentucky. You may think that’s just us, but it’s not. There’s some magic here, y’all.
The Downtown area is filled with old buildings that intrigue you with the architecture and fascinate you with the stories they contain. The canal walk is a nice place to take a stroll and feed the ducks. Or just enjoy the sound of the water and the cool mountain breeze blowing through the trees. Downtown also boasts two beautiful murals. The first is on 19th Street, right at the beginning of the Downtown area. The second is located in Levitt Park, right at Fountain
Square. This mural is extra special to the community, because artist Jamie Corum created it to celebrate the Levitt AMP concerts that are performed in the park each summer. The Downtown area does have a few restaurants. Our top picks are Shades and Conley’s. Two totally different vibes and menus, but both local and delicious. Conley’s is a local drive-in. The friendly staff come to your car, take your order, and after just a short wait, present you with a steaming white bag of deliciousness. Your taste buds will be dancing, ready for that footlong chili dog or bacon cheeseburger. I’d say go for a side of tater tots, but Jenni would opt for some crinkle fries and a chocolate shake. Shades is a sit down dining experience. They have daily specials, all of which are fantastic, but their regular menu has something for everyone. If you happen to visit on a Tuesday, Jenni says you have to get the nightly special. Penne pasta with your choice of chicken, shrimp, vegetables or a combination.
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Road. In this exhibit you’ll also find early American artifacts and replicas from the 1700s. Things like burning glasses, tobacco pipes and moccasins. The museum has a ton of fascinating household items, showing how area
She always orders the chicken. Manager, Chris, says chicken and veggies are the way to go. But no matter what you choose, you’ll be getting a delicious meal. I say anything you pick, pasta or not, is a great choice. That’s especially true if you add a side of fries. They’re a hand-cut style fry with a yummy house seasoning blend. They go great with the steak tips. Middlesboro, like most small towns, has faced economic challenges, but the people are hard working. They’re always looking toward the future and finding ways to move forward despite the obstacles. If you’re in Middlesboro and are looking for something to do, take a trip to the Bell County Historical Society. It’s filled to the brim with history from the area. There’s an entire section all about the meteor that formed Middlesboro. After you’ve checked out the rock samples, check out the Civil War section of the museum. The most fasinating part to us was the medical kit. It’s what soldiers would’ve carried in the field, and it really puts into perspective how far medical services have advanced. There’s a section displaying early Native American artifacts found along the Wilderness 40
residents would’ve lived in the 1800s and 1900s. You’ll find everything from cast iron cook wear to early settler clothing. There’s a Victorian Parlor set-up complete with authentic furniture. The most interesting part of this exhibit for us was the 1900s Permanent Wave Machine. It looked more like a death trap than something that would curl your hair. The museum has a library and archive where you can research more about the Middlesboro area. You can also see vintage advertisements, newspapers, and memorabelia from the early years of Middlesboro. Bell County Historical also has rotating exhibits, so you’ll always be able to find something new when you come to visit.
If you’re looking for something to do outdoors, you can visit the oldest continually played golf course in the country. It’s a nine-hole course that’s been played by several prolific golfers. We received the grand tour from golf professional, Jerry Shoffner. He sat down with us and told us the history of the course and how it became the oldest continually played golf course in the United States. That full story will be in our documentary series about the area. After our quick history lesson, Jerry took us out for a golf cart tour. He drove one golf cart. I drove the other. Jenni sat in the passenger seat and screamed almost the whole time. So, for anyone that was trying to concentrate on the course, I sincerely apologize for the loud screaming you heard. If you visit the course, make sure to
check out hole number six. It’s the signature hole, and has the best view on the course. At the time of the publication of this magazine, Jenni and I are living in Middlesboro, Kentucky. Yes, that’s right. We traded the beaches of Florida for the Blue Grass State. We’ve been asked dozens of times why on earth we would do that. Here’s the best answer I can give... when I wake up, the mountains are covered with a hazy mist. A few hours later the sunlight is hitting them just the right way, creating more shades of green than I knew existed. By the end of the day, they’ve changed again and again. It’s always something new. The beach, as beautiful as it is, always stays the same. The tide comes in. The tide goes out. The mountains sing a new song every day. If I could leave you with one last thing to sum up Middlesboro, Kentucky, it would be this...
f you take a short drive outside of the Crater City, you’ll find a town surrounded by walls. When Joanie B. and I first drove through, we were slightly alarmed by the large gates and barrier walls that seemed to block this town in. But, no need to freak out! Those gates and flood walls were built in 1989 to protect the city of Pineville from treacherous flood waters. Nearly thirty years after their establishment, in 2020 Pineville had to use them for the first time. They sealed off the city so homes and businesses were protected from the severe damages of flood waters. Pretty swift thinking on the part of 80s Pineville officials. Today Pineville is the county seat for Bell County, and the original courthouse stands resolute in the middle of town with all of the shops,
restaurants, and local businesses forming a circle around courthouse square. The director of Pineville’s Main Street, Jacob, showed us around town, but that wasn’t the first time we’d met Jacob... A few days earlier Jacob took us, and the lovely Guardians of the Gap member, Ms. Linda, on what was supposed to be a short hike to Chained Rock. Everyone said it was simple, only a few hills and some stairs, but with handrails to help with safety. So, we start this hike with expectations of some easy-breezy-beautiful Covergirl stuff, but we’re met right away with a long flight of downward stairs. The handrails followed the downhill slope, but quickly disappeared. We traded the level steps for some that were slightly uneven and we traded those for dirt, mud and rocks. Ms. Linda and Jacob were both shocked. They didn’t remember the hike being quite this difficult, but it was all good. We weren’t
dangling off the edge of cliffs or rockclimbing, so we could handle it. A few minutes down the trail, still walking down into what felt like an endless cavern, the ground became a bit more treacherous. There were large rocks we needed to climb. We laughed and carried on. Then we came to the final stretch. A wall of rocks with a teeny, weeny (not polka dot bikini) path leading around the wall. Jacob hopped up on the rocks and started forward. Ms. Linda, Joanie B. and I weighed our options. We couldn’t turn back. We were in way too deep for that. I contemplated how long it would take to send out an SOS for a helicopter rescue, but the rest of the crew trekked on. I followed with only a few shrieks... One foot in front of the other, leaning as close to the rock wall as possible, we made our way to the edge of the cliff. We found Chained Rock, took our obligatory photo with
said rock, and made our way back toward civilization. Remember how I said we went DOWNstairs and DOWNhill? Well, that meant it was all UPhill from here. You’re probably like, come on, Jenni. Buck up! An uphill hike isn’t that hard. You’re right. But I’m generally the ‘let’s grab a coffee’ or ‘that boutique looks cute’ sort of traveler. Not the ‘hey, wanna go climb some rocks’ kind. The uphill climb wasn’t easy, and every step reminded me that it’s been ten years since my last Zumba class. But just when I thought my legs were going to fall off, I saw that first set of stairs we’d come down. This time, it was our last. I kicked my tired butt into high gear and made it to the top of those stairs. Victory. Sweet, sweaty victory. Today I’m ready to do it again. 45
Let’s fast-forward back to the day where Jacob was briskly walking us around town instead of dragging us up a mountain... Downtown Pineville has some pretty spectacular stops. The most popular restaurant is Sauced, and they’re said to have the best craft pizza in the area. There’s also a delicious Irish pub with the most amazing baked mac and cheese! It’s right next to the Bell Theater. It’s a 1939 Art Deco style 300 seat theater. In the past it has served as a movie theater, music venue, and a performing arts theater. It has been newly renovated and is now primarily used as a movie theater, but it’s still a great spot for live music. The star of downtown for us was Grit and Grace Boutique. They have the cutest clothes, accessories, and local gifts like Pineville t-shirts and pillows. The contents of the store are ever-changing, so if you see something you like, you need to grab it when you can. Pineville is most famously known for its annual Mountain Laurel Festival held in May. Colleges from Kentucky select one representative
to participate, and the festival is held over Memorial Day weekend. Each May, since 1931, girls come from all over the state for the pageant, and during the coronation ceremony each of them performs the infamous 15-second curtsey to the current state governor, who later crowns the queen. The festivities go far beyond the pageant and the beautiful dresses. Vendors set up for the festival, and there is always a big music headliner. In the past they’ve had people like Wynonna Judd, Scotty McCreery and Lauren Alaina. This year, in 2021, the festival’s opening act was Maddie & Tae. It was their first concert back since the pandemic, and it was a fully sold-out show. Most of the festivities are held in the Laurel Cove amphitheater, which is a picturesque spot, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of downtown. In May, the mountain laurel is blooming, and everything looks and feels brand new. Although Pineville’s population is just a little more than 1800, the town brings in thousands of tourists every year between the Mountain Laurel Festival and the Laurel Cove Music Festival. It’s a great place to visit when you come to the Blue Grass State.
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After we’d spent the morning in Pineville, we drove east to another small Kentucky town: Harlan. We met up with a member from the local tourism board and had lunch at a local favorite called The Portal. It was voted best restaurant in Harlan for their incredible pizzas. But its big claim to fame is that it was the original home of the Pizza Portal as seen on season six of the hit FX Original show, Justified. People will come from all over the world to visit the Pizza Portal to live out their ultimate Givens or Crowder dreams, but we’ve never seen Justified (and I had to Google those character names...), so we just came for the pizza. We love a hot New York street slice or even some cheesy Chicago deep dish goodness, but we’ve met very few pies we don’t like. The Portal has just about every topping you could want on your pizza, delicious hand tossed crust, and a signature sauce. After drooling over all of the options, we decided on the Central Street Supreme. It had Italian sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, mozzerella, green peppers, onions, olives and all things wonderful and delicious. It was divine! After our time at The Portal we took a quick walking tour around town, and had a visit with the town mascot, an adorable baby possum named Petunia. The mural was created by artist, Lacy Hale, and she wanted to break some
possum stereotypes, and show how cute and important they really are. Petunia is pictured with her tail wrapped around a pokeweed as a nod to Harlan’s famous Poke Sallet Festival. The pokeweed relies on animals to spread its seeds, and possums are one of the only mammals that can handle the toxins from the berries. So, without sweet babies like Petunia, we wouldn’t have Poke Sallet and we’d have a whole lot more ticks and snakes. We left the mural and headed for Moonbow Tipple Coffee and Sweets for the most important part of the day... a latte. Moonbow Tipple has a beaufiul industrial interior, which gave off the perfect vibe for a downtown coffeeshop. After our adventures in Harlan, we finished the day at Sassy TRASH. It’s an eclectic antique shop in downtown Harlan with everything from local art pieces to vintage signs and telephones. You’ll even find locally sourced honey, fresh bread and jams!
On our trip to the Cumberland Gap area, Jenni and I got to experience an adventure that totally rocked our world. One drizzly afternoon we drove to Black Mountain in Harlan, Kentucky. We had been told we would be having an ATV adventure. When we arrived that adventure became an ADVENTURE really fast. We would be driving our own ATV. What?! I was so excited. Jenni just started to pray that we’d make it out of this alive. I eagerly agreed to drive our two-passenger ATV. Two of our new friends from the Guardians of the Gap, Phyllis and Linda, buckled up in the third ATV with Linda at the wheel. She was excited to whip around on the trails, and Phyllis, decked out in her stylish pink jacket, was already holding on for dear life. After a driver’s training session for Linda and myself, we were ready to hit the course, following behind an expert guide of course. We went up hills,
through mud puddles, and tried our best to keep control going downhill. The air was filled with my laughter and Jenni’s screams. The scenery was exquisite. I wanted that ride to go on forever, but like all good things, it had to come to an end. We drove the muddy steep trails back down to where our grand adventure began. Thankfully we all survived, with only two near-death experiences, and pulled back into the parking lot in one piece and unharmed. That is everyone and everything except Phyllis’s outfit. She was covered from top to bottom with specks of mud. But, between all of our laughter it was hard to find time to worry about any of that. That afternoon was one that I could relive over and over. So much fun in beautiful surroundings with ladies we now cherish as friends. When we came back to Cumberland Gap, we had a picnic with The Guardians, and the four of us ladies shared the crazy stories of our day. It was certainly out of all of our comfort zones, but I would do it again in a heart beat. Jenni, despite her screams of bloody murder all through the trails, says it was one of the most exciting adventures she’s ever been on. We’ll definitely be making another trip to Black Mountain for some more ATVing. We’ll just make sure Phyllis wears something more casual like a rain coat and galoshes.
ince this is the tri-state area, we couldn’t leave without visiting the third state... Virginia. So we made the trip across the border from Cumberland Gap into Lee County, Virginia. We were spending the day exploring all Wilderness Road State Park had to offer. The first stop, The Karlan Mansion. This grand house was originally known as the Ely House, and it was built in 1878 by Robert McPherson Ely. he constructed the house while his family lived states away in Missouri. There are letters from McPherson to his wife and children that are preserved in the museum room of the mansion. There are three beautiful, handcrafted fireplaces in the mansion that are original to the home. They were made with imported Italian marble, and they just make the space feel grand. In the dining room you’ll find a pie safe, where baked goods used to be stored in order to cool without getting covered in flies. That’s also original to the mansion. We received a tour from a relative of one of the home’s original owners. Ms. Frances Inwood took us around to every room, telling stories she had when the home was still the Ely House. Almost every room in the house has at least one elephant decoration. These were donated to the home by a local politician and his family. Turns out The Elys, especially Frances’s cousin, Maurine, were staunch democrats. So if anyone wants to donate a few donkey figurines or stuffed animals to balance things out, I’m sure the donation would be appreciated. Besides the many elephants, the Karlan Mansion is filled with original furniture and other vintage pieces that have been donated by the community. You could spend hours just walking 52
around and im-
mersing yourself in the history of every room. After our tour, we were treated to some delicious sour cream pound cake in the kitchen. Absolutely delicious! The Karlan Mansion is a great venue for weddings, reunions and other parties. It has a full-service kitchen, two dressing rooms, three restrooms and a solarium great for receptions. Wilderness Road State Park also has several other venue options like the amphitheater, Surber Cabin and the Visitor Center theatre. The park opened officially in 1998, but the Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation purchased the Karlan estate and 200 acres surrounding the property in 1993. When it opened in December of ‘98, the mission was to provide people with resources and a cultural experience. It actually sits on part of the original Wilderness Road cut by Daniel Boone in the late 1700s. It’s a great spot for picnicking, hiking and just enjoying the offered living history programs. At the Visitor Center you’ll be able to watch a documentary about the Wilderness
Road and to learn about the treaty signed between the Native Americans and settlers through an animatronic reinaction. However, if you want something a little more immersive than a documentary, Wilderness Road has several options. Throughout the year they have events like the Heritage Festival, Candlelight Ghost Tour and Mystery Dinner Theatre. The park also offers picnic areas, a large am-
phitheater and more than eight miles of Wilderness Road Trail. Our favorite part of our time in Virginia, was our visit to Martin’s Station. It was closed for refurbishment while we were visiting Wilderness Road State Park, but we got an exclusive look at what’s to come later this year. Martin’s Station is a replica of the original fort built in 1775. The fort was active during the Westward expansion during the Revolutionary War. It served as a place of refuge for settlers braving the new frontier. The Martin’s Station you see today is a living museum. It has authentic structures, and reenactors that showcase life as it would’ve been on the frontier in the 1700s. The two reenactors we met on our tour actually live on the settlement during the season. They said it provides a more immersive experience for them and for visitors that come to the fort. They grow their own food and purify their own water. If someone is injured on site (non-life threatening), they’ll treat the wounds as they would have during the time of Daniel Boone. No matter the situation 53
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reenactors stay in character while the fort is open to the public. You’ll get to watch them perform blacksmithing duties, tending to the fields, smoking meats, and more. The aim is for you to feel like you’ve stepped into 1775. We were blown away by the committment of the reenactors. They showed us how they cut the logs to build the structures, and even
because that’s likely what would’ve been done in the Westward expansion days. However, after all of that, the bleeding still didn’t stop. What’s the next logical solution? He had to cauterize it. He took a nice hunk of metal and heated it over the fire and zapped that cut until the bleeding stopped. It was as good as new.
how they started a fire for the blacksmith shop. I asked the man starting the fire if he burned himself often, because he was getting awfully close to the flames. He proceeded to pick up the flaming ball with his bare hands. “I can’t feel anything anymore,” he said. Then he followed that with a story about a time he sliced his finger pretty bad a few seasons ago. He started by rubbing some dirt in it, because that’s a classic solution. He tried some tree sap,
These reenactors are passionate about bringing you an authentic 1700s experience, but they also just love what they do. The two guys we were with said they love this area and the history, and they like the idea that they’re preserving something and bringing it alive like a textbook never could. They get to solve problems without technology, and there’s something satisfying about that process. Martin’s Station is open for visitors during the summer months.
id you know that
there are only thirty-three accredited veterinary schools in the United States? One of those 33 schools can be found in Harrogate, Tennessee at Lincoln Memorial University. On average, LMU has just under 5,000 students enrolled in various programs. On campus you’ll also find the J. Frank White Academy, which is a private K-12 school linked with LMU. At the univeristy they offer undergraduate, graduate and pre-professional programs. They
also have online and international offerings for students to take advantage of. The undergraduate and graduate program offerings are extensive, but the most common thing you’ll hear said around town is DCOM. Y’all, it took us our entire trip to figure out what in the world they were talking about. DCOM is the Debusk College of Osteopathic Medicine, and one of the most popular schools within LMU. In addition to
DCOM, some of the popular schools are the College of Veterinary Medicine, Caylor School of,
ed Abraham Lincoln Library and Museum, which houses one of the largest collections of Lincoln memorabelia around. In addition, there are several cabin replicas on campus. One is an exact replica of Abraham Lincoln’s childhood cabin. It’s very simple and shows the humble beginnings Lincoln had. Another cabin is a replica of the
Nursing and the Duncan School of Law. The newest addition will be a dental school, and that’s expected to bring a large volume of students to the area. The education programs are not the only draw of LMU. The campus has a rich history, much of which involves (surprise!) Abraham Lincoln. They have a newly renovated and expand-
childhood home of the founder of Osteopathic medicine, Dr. Andrew Still. You can walk through the cabins and other buildings on campus for free. Once you’ve toured the cabins and campus, make your way to the student center for some Chick-fil-A and Starbucks. The student center is open to the public, and many residents of Harrogate, Cumberland Gap and even Middlesboro make the trip just for some of those chicken nuggets. If we were still looking for a college to attend, the Chick-fil-A may have sealed the deal... just kidding, y’all! Lincoln Memorial University is an incredible school, and one of the best of its size. 57
e’re not normally the kind of people who spend the day at the lake, floating along on our pontoon. In all honesty that could be because we don’t have a pontoon or that we’ve never really lived by a lake... either way, we got to live out all of our lake life dreams on Norris Lake. The lovely innkeeper of Olde Mill Inn, Kim, took us out on her pontoon to show us the Norris Lake house boats. People had been talking about 60
these since we arrived, and we were expecting your typical house boat, like we would see in our Florida hometown. But, y’all, these are HOUSE boats. Not a boat with living quarters below deck. These were full on houses floating on the water. Call us easily amused, but this was one of the coolest things we’d ever seen. The lake had everything from modest single-family floating homes to floating mansions. Kim let us take a quick tour of her house boat, and when you’re inside you’d never know you were on the water. These house boats are permanently docked, so you can’t just unhook and float your little house down the lake. There are several marinas along the lake, all of which offer
different ammenities like event spaces, bars and restaurants. Houses can be found for rent and for purchase at varying price points. Kim actually offers a rental package for her house boat, so you can get a taste of lake life without the huge committment of purchasing a boat house of your own. As we were floating down the lake in the pontoon, Joanie B. and I both thought for a second, just a second, that we could be lake ladies. Get ourselves a cute little house, a pontoon boat, maybe a couple kayaks and we’d be living the dream, right? But I think the sweeping mountain views may have gotten us carried away. Can you blame us? It’s kind of spectacular.
If you’re looking for some lake-side dining, look no further than Shelly Belle’s Restaurant. They’re located right beside the lake, and offer a varied menu for all palates. At Shelly Belle’s you can get everything from seafood to pasta and burgers. It’s a great stop after a long day at the lake with family or friends. Or, Shelly Belle’s can be a destination in and of itself. They offer kayaking or, if you’re looking for something more relaxing, you can grab a tube and hop into one of their vans for a short drive to the launch point. You’ll put your tube (and yourself) into the water and float all the way back to Shelly Belle’s. This definitely sounds more our speed. But, if you’re like Jenni and have a little (or huge) fear of water, Shelly Belle’s also offers another fun activity... Axe throwing!
This is something we’ve been wanting to do for years. I mean, nothing says family fun like axe throwing, right? Well, maybe not for the entire family. It’s a great activity for couples or families with older children. Grab some axes, throw them at the targets and work up an appetite.
On our visit, we’d already had a full day so we came strictly for the food. Joanie B. had the catfish, and she said it was yummy. Coming from a Florida girl, that’s pretty good. I had their burger with pepperjack
We didn’t see any wildlife while we were there, but Shelly Belle’s is located in the mountains, so keep your eyes peeled for all kinds of fun animals while you’re there. Since moving to the area, we’ve been back to Shelly Belle’s and they’re always a bustling place. If you want to enjoy one of their delicious
cheese, and it was absolutely delicious. We sat outside on the deck, and that just made the experience even better. You can feel that nice
breeze, and watch tubers and kayakers float by the restaurant.
desserts, make sure to get there early. They sell out quick! But imagine sitting on the deck, eating a nice slice of creamy cheesecake, with that glorious view. Y’all, I don’t think it gets better than this. You can visit their website to learn more about the activities they offer as well as daily menu specials you can enjoy. 63
hen it starts to feel like summer, you’ll find us on the porch having one of our Screen Porch Suppers. Now, we don’t really host anything called a Screen Porch Supper, but if family or friends stop by, which they often do, it becomes an event. There’s always plenty of food and more conversation than you can handle. We live by what my grandmaw always said every time we walked in the door, “Have you eaten yet?” And it doesn’t matter if the answer is yes, there’s still something worth pickin’ at. I guess all that’s pretty common, but I think it’s something that’s not as appreciated today as it once was. I was raised the same way my parents were. They made sure our door was always open, that even if food was scarce there was enough to go around, and if you needed a place to lay your head, consider yourself at home. I didn’t realize my parents were raising me any certain way though. You don’t stop to recognize something that just is. All our neighbors were the same way. Anything one of us had, the rest were welcome to. I helped our next-door neighbor, Charlie, put out the garden each year and then I’d help his wife, Mary, put it up. They gave away even more than they kept, which is probably why when things were lean in our house, there was still enough food to go around. Mary taught me a lot about cooking. I made her 14-day pickles when I was 13 years old and entered them into the county fair. I won first place in my division. I don’t think there were many 13-year-old boys making pickles, so I didn’t have a lot of competition. She told me about how her grandfather taught her to make bread, which he learned while baking bread for the soldiers in his camp during the Civil War, as she showed me what to do. I still make her bread-n-butter
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pickles each year, and now I’m kind of famous for them among my friends. I can’t make potato salad without thinking about hers. And, her deviled eggs were the best I’d ever had, and that includes the ones at church potlucks. So, today at our house, a Screen Porch Supper is almost never complete without some deviled eggs, which this past year I’ve taken to calling The Devil’s Cackleberries. They’re one of the first things I remember learning how to make and never having a recipe for. Mary just made them, and I would watch or help mash the yolks or something. But boy, would I help eat ‘em! Before I get into how to make them, let’s talk about tips for the best results... 1. Never use fresh eggs to hard boil. Some will say that there’s a foolproof method for easily peeling fresh eggs, but my mama didn’t raise a fool. I buy eggs two weeks before if I know I’m gonna make them. 2. Turn the eggs over in the carton the night before you boil them, so the yolks settle to the center. 3. To peel them, once they’ve cooled in cold water, put the lid back on the pot. While holding the lid on, and holding the pot over the sink, give it a good shake for about 30 seconds. As the eggs knock against one another in the pan, the shells will crack, and water will get up under it and start to peel the eggs for you. Then just finish peeling the eggs in the pan and rinse them off to remove any remaining shell bits. The pieces of shell will fall to the bottom of the water, so when you’re done, just pour off the water and toss the shells into the trash. Or, if you compost, just put them in the bin. 4. Always boil 1 or 2 more than you plan to devil. That way if you get the yolk mixture too runny, you can mash in another yolk or two and it will thicken right up. Then you’ll have a couple of testers to make sure they’re just right.
Ingredients: 12 large eggs 2-3 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 tablespoon yellow mustard 1 tablespoon bread-n-butter pickle juice 1 teaspoon white vinegar Salt & pepper to taste Paprika for garnish Directions: Place eggs in a large pot and cover with at least one inch of water. Bring the water to a boil on high and cook for 8-10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Immediately and carefully drain the water and refill the pot with cold water. When the water turns warm, drain and refill with cold water again. Repeat this about 3 times until the eggs are cool to the touch. Drain and refill one more time with cold water and put the lid back on. Over the sink, give the pot a good shake for about 30 seconds to crack the shells and help to start to peel them. Peel the eggs and halve them lengthwise. Remove the yolks and put them in a small bowl. Using a fork, mash the yolks. If you have a mesh strainer, you can also run them through the strainer into the bowl. Add to that the mayonnaise, mustard, pickle juice, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Mix until well combined and smooth and creamy. Taste to see what you might need more of. You can always add more, but you can’t take it out if you add too much of something. With a spoon, fill each egg half with some of the yolk mixture. Sprinkle with a little paprika and serve. If you’re feeling fancy, you can pipe the yolks in and garnish with other things like crumbled bacon, a little relish, chives, or diced pimentos.
Hi, I’m Jimmy Proffitt. I grew up in VA, but now call East TN home. I’m a foodie, recipe developer, and writer. I have a website: www.theappalachiantale.com and am working on my 1st cookbook. I have also written a kid’s book which I hope to publish soon.
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We have taken travel photos all over the world, and we are so excited to fill future editions of the magazine with those photos. But, we think that travel is about connecting with people and sharing experiences. So we want you to send us YOUR photos. Send us photos of your favorite restaurant, favorite hotel, favorite city. Anywhere you’ve traveled that you love, send us a photo for the chance to be featured in a future edition of Here, There & Everywhere. The easiest way to send us your photos is through social media. Post them and tag @herethereeverywheretravelguide on Instagram. You can also send us an email at letstalk@joanieandjennib. com and share with us why you love the place featured in your photograph. If your photo is chosen for a featured spot in Here, There & Everywhere we’ll give you credit and a special link to send to your family and friends! Happy photographing, y’all!
It’s no secret that 2020 was a rough year for travel. International destinations became unattainable and most avid travelers turned to road trips to sustain them. We had a great time visiting small towns across the United States, and we wouldn’t trade those experiences for anything. However, we’ve both been feeling the itch to hop a plane to far off places. So, naturally, when we had the opportunity to partner with Celestyal Cruises, we couldn’t say yes fast enough. Celestyal is a Greece based cruise-
line, and in August we will be cruising with them on their Idyllic Aegean itinerary. We’ll be visiting Athens, Kusadasi (Turkey), Rhodes (Greece), Santorini, Athens Lavrion,
Mykonos, Milos, Agios Nikolaos, and ending back in Athens. We’ve visited one Greek destination in our travels, and we fell in love with Corfu. The people. The food. The scenery. Excited does not begin to describe how we feel about this trip. As with most of our trips, we’ll be documenting the entire journey from preparation to exploration on our social media outlets, and the next issue of Here, There & Everywhere will have a hefty feature on our time in Greece and our adventures with Celestyal. If you’ve been to any of the destinations we mentioned, please send us any suggestions on things to see and do while we’re there. We’re especially interested in the best places to grab a coffee and eat some delicious Greek food. Also send us any questions you
have about Greece or Celestyal Cruises!
A strange sound awoke an uneasy William Archer Hall in the early morning hours of October 15, 1929. It was a strange noise and sounded like metal was grinding against metal.
house on the system had a distinct ring that signaled when it was their call. The ring for Hall’s personal phone at home for example was one long ring followed by two short rings.
Early in the last century Mr. Hall had invested in the telephone fervor and was awarded rights to operate the local telephone service. The newfangled telephone calling was the going thing.
There went that grinding again and it made Mr. Hall uncomfortable. It was the middle of the night and he was all alone. He decided to check on his wife “Sis” at their home across the meadow. There was no answer and he felt she must be fast asleep.
The switchboard was inside his General Store which was located in Speedwell, Tennessee, about halfway between LaFollette and Harrogate. It also housed the Speedwell Post Office. His son Charlie Hall was the postmaster. Mr. Hall manned the switchboard on some nights, plugging in each call on the board and disconnecting them after they were complete. As the night wore on there were less calls and he slept the long periods between. Each 72
“Oh, she’s alright,” he said to himself. “That sawing noise is coming from nearby not over at our house.” Hall quietly arose from bed, grabbed his gun and slipped into the dry goods section of the store. He thought the best thing to do would be to frighten them and they would leave. He pointed the gun toward the bottom of the door and fired.
The sound of the blast filled the room. After the shot he heard a groan and then a brief clamor. He listened and soon heard men running up the road that led to Harrogate. Mr. Hall stepped to the window and in the moon-light he saw someone being assisted down the road by one or two men and into a car. The car sped off without lights until it was nearly out of sight. Hall turned on the Delco light, which was commonly used in that period, and called the Claiborne County Sheriff and then called his wife. This time he was successful in reaching her. “I think I just shot someone breaking into the post office,” he told her, shaking and his voice cracking. “I’m afraid I shot someone.” She knew that her husband was upset. Hall was a devout Christian and it bothered him deeply when he found a pool of blood on the front porch of the store. Word came the following day that a young man by the name of Landon Herteage was being treated in the Morristown Hospital for a serious gunshot wound in the abdomen. Hall had intentionally aimed low not knowing that Herteage, on
the opposite side of the door, was down on his knees as he sawed on the door lock. The grieving Hall prayed for the young man as he drove to Morristown that day. Although he did not see Herteage he did talk with his parents and wept as he told them what had happened. He said he was sorry that he shot their son. Word came later that Herteage had died. The Herteages knew their son was wrong and did not blame Hall but later the Speedwell native received threats on his life. A bomb was put in his mailbox in the front of his store and he received several threatening letters. “Killing was a sin to Grandpa,” Hazel Wilson Hatcher, his granddaughter, wrote in her book titled Speedwell Seasons. “He never quite got over having shot the young man. Grandpa was protecting government property. They sent him a reward check but he sent it back. He said he just could not accept money for killing someone.” The threats against Mr. Hall stopped after a few months. He died in 1937.
Jadon Gibson is a free-
lance writer from Harrogate, TN. His stories are both historical and nostalgic in nature. Thanks to Lincoln Memorial University, Alice Lloyd College and the Museum of Appalachia for their assistance.
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Important Links Learn more about the places featured.
Willow Bend Farm - https://thefarmatwillowbend.com/
Southern Roots Boutique - https://m.facebook.com/southernrootsboutique2017/ Whole Latte Love - https://www.facebook.com/WholeLatteLoveKY/ Guardians of the Gap - https://www.facebook.com/gapguardians/ Mitty’s Metal Art - https://www.mittysmetalart.com/ Little Congress Bicycle Museum - https://www.bicyclemuseum.net/
Gertie’s - https://www.facebook.com/Gerties-Commissary-Cumberland-Gap-448119368635310/ Papa Chum’s - https://www.facebook.com/PapaChums2015/ Flour Baby’s Bakery - https://www.facebook.com/Flour-Babys-Bakery-1277456489077302/ Whistle Stop Antiques - https://www.facebook.com/whistelstopantiquescumberlandgaptnkyva/ Gap Creek Coffee House - https://www.facebook.com/gapcreekcoffee/ Nineteen19 - https://www.1919grill.com/ Olde Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast - https://www.oldemillinnbnb.com/ Angelo’s in the Gap - https://www.facebook.com/AngelosInTheGap/ Ghost Tours - https://www.facebook.com/CGGhostTours/ Old Church in the Gap - https://www.facebook.com/The-Olde-Church-in-Cumberland-Gap-101378942038273/ Middlesboro Main Street - https://www.downtownmiddlesboro.com/ Shade’s - https://www.shadescafeandsteakhouse.com/ Conley’s Drive-In -https://www.facebook.com/goodfoodrestaurants/ Bell Historical - https://www.facebook.com/bellcountyhistoricalsociety/ Middlesboro Country Club - https://www.facebook.com/mccgolfcourse/ Pineville Main Street - https://thecityofpineville.com/mainstreetpage/ Bell Theater - https://www.facebook.com/BellTheater/ Grit and Grace Boutique - https://www.facebook.com/gritandgraceboutiqueky Moonbow Tipple Coffee - https://www.kentuckymoonbow.com/harlan Black Mountain - https://www.blackmountainoffroad.com/ Sassy TRASH - https://www.facebook.com/Sassy-TRASH-LLC-829419697129396/ Karlan Mansion- https://www.friendsofwildernessroad.org/karlan-mansion Martin’s Station - https://www.historicmartinsstation.com/ Lincoln Memorial University - https://www.lmunet.edu/ Shelly Belle’s - https://www.facebook.com/ShellyBellesRestaurantontheRiver/ The Appalachian Tale - https://theappalachiantale.com/ Celestyal Cruises - https://celestyal.com/us/ Blessings on State Bed and Breakfast - https://blessingsonstate.com/ Jacksonville, Illinois - https://www.jacksonvilleil.com/ No Regrets Cookies - https://www.noregretscookies.com/ Misty’s - https://www.shopmistys.com/ Positive Note Network - https://www.joanieandjennib.com/
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