In this training, we'll embark on an enlightening journey through the essential knowledge and principles that underpin the artistry, craftsmanship, and appreciation of jewellery.
In the first section we will review the following sections: Metals, Diamonds and Gemstones. The second section will review: types of settings, types of engagement rings, types of chains and other jewellery design elements.
At the end of this document, you will also find a Glossary of Terms which can be helpful when dealing with customers and product.
MONTREAL
THE WORLD OF METALS
Welcome to the Metals Module of our comprehensive jewellery training program! In this segment, we will explore the fascinating world of metals and their pivotal role in crafting exquisite jewellery pieces.
Whether you're a new sales associate or an industry veteran, this module will equip you with the knowledge and skills essential for working with metals in the world of jewellery. Let's embark on this exciting journey into the realm of metals!
GOLD
As one of the most coveted precious metals, gold stands as an enduring essential in any jewellery assortment. Explore the unique qualities that elevate gold's allure, and learn how to help your customer select and maintain their ideal gold jewellery items.
HISTORY OF GOLD
Gold's allure dates back thousands of years, with the earliest known use in jewellery and ornamentation by ancient civilizations like the Egyptians. Gold became a universal symbol of wealth and currency. In the 20th century, gold played a role in the global financial system, with countries holding gold reserves and the gold standard being established and later abandoned. Today, gold is used not only in jewellery but also in technology, investment, and various industrial applications, remaining a symbol of enduring value and beauty.
GOLD PURITY
Gold karats are a measure of the purity and composition of gold used in jewelry and other precious items. The term "karat" (often abbreviated as "K" or "kt") is used to denote the proportion of pure gold in a given piece. Here's a brief overview:
Pure gold, with 99.9% gold content. Exceptionally soft and malleable, making it less suitable for everyday jewelry.
Highly prized for its vivid, rich color and luster.
Contains 75% pure gold and 25% alloy metals (usually copper, silver, or palladium).
Offers a balance between purity and durability, making it a popular choice for high-quality jewelry.
Contains 58.3% pure gold and 41.7% alloy metals. Preferred for its durability while still maintaining a significant gold content.
Contains 41.7% pure gold and 58.3% alloy metals. Considered the minimum karatage for genuine gold in North America. Provides good durability but has a lower gold content compared to higher karats.
The choice of gold karat depends on factors like desired colour, durability, and budget. Higher karats, such as 18K and 24K, have a richer gold colour but are softer and may require more care. Lower karats, like 10K & 14K, are more durable and cost effective for everyday jewellery pieces. Understanding gold karats helps sales associates guide their customers through their journey when purchasing gold jewellery.
DOUCET GOLD STANDARD
In Doucet's jewellery collection, you'll find that all our gold pieces are meticulously crafted from authentic gold alloys, starting at 10kt purity or higher. 10kt gold strikes a harmonious blend of elegance, resilience, and costeffectiveness. For exceptional occasions and premium selections like wedding bands, engagement rings, and opulent diamond jewellery, we also offer a diverse range of 14kt & 18kt pieces.
Our metals are responsibly sourced, and our alloys never contain lead, cadmium, mercury, or other toxic heavy metals.
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN YELLOW, WHITE & ROSE GOLD?
Yellow, white, and rose hues in gold jewellery are achieved through the incorporation of different metals of varied colors into pure gold alloys.
Rose gold, with its captivating warmth and romantic allure, stands out as a distinctly unique shade among the trio While it's often associated with contemporary trends, it's worth noting that rose gold was initially crafted in the 19th century, emphasizing its timeless appeal. This enchanting hue is achieved by melding pure gold with copper, sometimes complemented by silver to impart a softer, rosy tone.
It's crucial to understand that there are no naturally occurring or "pure" white or rose gold variants These captivating hues can solely be attained through the artful combination of pure gold with other metals. Likewise, yellow gold retains its purity solely when it reaches 24kt.
An alternative metal is anything that doesn't fall under the precious metal category. You'll find a variety of alternative metals in today's market, including cobalt, tungsten, tantalum and titanium. Alternative metals are particularly popular in men's wedding bands.
Cobalt alloys are known for their strength and durability, making them suitable for crafting rings and other jewellery items. Cobalt rings, in particular, are popular for their hardness and resistance to scratches, making them a durable choice for those seeking a sturdy and low-maintenance jewellery option. These alloys are also known for their white colour, resembling the appearance of white gold or platinum, and are often used in men's wedding bands and other modern jewellery designs.
Tungsten refers to a dense and exceptionally hard metal often used in the creation of contemporary jewellery, especially for men's rings and accessories Tungsten carbide, a compound of tungsten and carbon, is a popular material choice due to its remarkable durability, resistance to scratching and tarnishing, and its distinctive grayish-white appearance. Tungsten jewellery is favoured for its ability to maintain its polished finish over time and its affordability, making it a popular choice for wedding bands and other fashion-forward accessories.
Tantalum is a rare and exotic metal that is occasionally used for crafting unique and distinctive jewellery pieces. Tantalum's notable characteristics include its exceptional corrosion resistance, high melting point, and dark gray-blue appearance While not as common as other metals like gold or platinum, tantalum jewelry is sought after for its distinctive colour and the ability to create unconventional and contemporary jewelry designs. Tantalum is particularly popular for men's wedding bands due to its durability and unique aesthetic.
Titanium is a lightweight and highly durable metal used to create a range of jewellery pieces. Known for its exceptional strength, corrosion resistance, and hypoallergenic properties, titanium is a popular choice for crafting rings, bracelets, and other accessories. Titanium jewellery is favoured for its comfort, affordability, and modern appearance, often featuring sleek and minimalist designs It is particularly popular for men's wedding bands due to its rugged yet sophisticated qualities.
METAL FINISHES
THE WORLD OF GEMSTONES
Welcome to the Gemstones Module of our jewellery training program! In this important segment, we will embark on a captivating exploration of gemstones, their origins, properties, and how they transform jewellery into works of art. From the enchanting allure of diamonds to the vibrant colors of sapphires, emeralds, and more, you will delve into the world of gemology, learning the basics of these precious and semi-precious stones.
This module will equip you with the knowledge and expertise necessary for understanding and discussing gemstones with our customers. Join us as we uncover the secrets of the earth's most cherished treasures and unlock the potential for creating exquisite pieces that will dazzle and delight. Let's embark on this fascinating journey into the world of gemstones!
DIAMONDS
Diamonds are among the Earth's most coveted and mesmerizing creations, known for their unparalleled brilliance, rarity, and enduring symbolism. These precious gemstones have fascinated humanity for centuries, gracing the most exquisite jewellery pieces and bearing deep emotional significance.
The 4Cs of diamonds represent the fundamental factors that determine the value and beauty of these extraordinary gemstones. These characteristics Carat, Cut, Clarity, and Color are the pillars upon which diamond quality is assessed and appreciated.
Diamond clarity involves the evaluation of small imperfections found on both the surface and within the gem. Surface irregularities are termed "blemishes," while internal flaws are referred to as "inclusions." In many instances, these inclusions have no discernible impact on a diamond's visual appeal since they are typically invisible to the naked eye. Gemologists often use the term "internal characteristics" to describe these inclusions, as they contribute to the unique character of a natural diamond It's worth highlighting that diamonds boasting minimal and diminutive inclusions are awarded the highest clarity grades, commanding higher price points to mirror their exceptional quality.
"Inclusions are nature's fingerprints; they neither limit a diamond's beauty or affect its durability."
CARAT
The term "carat" is frequently misconstrued, as it pertains to a diamond's weight rather than its superior diamond. While a sizable diamond can serve as a symbol of prestige, it's important to note that carat weight isn't directly linked to a diamond's sparkle. The true radiance of a diamond emerges from its precise cut. In fact, a diamond with a high carat weight but a subpar cut may appear smaller in size compared to a diamond with a smaller carat weight but an exceptionally well-crafted cut.
This introduction to diamond fundamentals will empower you with the knowledge to excel as a jewellery professional. In most sales scenarios, you won't need to delve into intricate diamond details however, having a general understanding will help with your confidence in the selling process.
LAB GROWN DIAMONDS
Lab-grown diamonds, also known as synthetic or man-made diamonds, are created through a controlled process that replicates the natural diamond-growing conditions found deep within the Earth's mantle. These diamonds have gained popularity in recent years as an ethical and lower priced option to mined diamonds.
In recent years, significant advancements in the science of lab-grown diamonds have enabled specialized laboratories to produce exquisite diamonds. The process begins with a seed diamond, usually a small lab-grown diamond. Subsequently, the seed undergoes one of two key processes: Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) or High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT), ultimately resulting in the creation of the final lab-grown diamond.
HOW ARE THEY GROWN?
Since the 1950s, the HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature) technique has been employed in the production of diamonds. In this process, technicians load a capsule with pure carbon and a metal flux, alongside a minuscule diamond fragment known as a “seed.” This diamond seed serves as the foundation upon which the new diamond will form. After the capsule is filled and securely sealed, it is placed into a robust press and subjected to intense heat. Over time, the carbon within the capsule undergoes a gradual melting process, followed by crystallization around the seed. The new diamond can take a number of hours or several weeks to finish growing depending on the size and quality of the diamond that is being made.
HPHT diamonds can be used in jewellery, but the majority of them are used for industrial purposes.
HPHT
CVD
The utilization of the CVD method for diamond growth commenced in the 1980s.
The CVD process entails placing a diamond seed into a specialized chamber, which is then infused with a carbon-rich gas. Subsequently, the chamber is subjected to heat, and either electrical discharge or microwave energy is applied to disassociate the carbon atoms from the gas. As the carbon atoms separate from the gas, they aggregate on the diamond seed.
While some of the carbon on the seed undergoes crystallization, not all of it does, often forming black graphite. To prevent this graphite from blemishing the emerging diamond, technicians periodically interrupt the CVD process and polish the developing diamond to eliminate the graphite.
Each CVD chamber can facilitate the growth of multiple diamonds simultaneously. These diamonds can be tailored to exhibit various characteristics, though the majority of CVD diamonds are crafted to meet gemquality standards and are intended for use in jewellery.
Let’s explore the advantages and disadvanatges of Lab Grown Diamonds.
Pros:
• Ethical and Conflict-Free: Lab-grown diamonds are produced in controlled environments, ensuring they are free from the ethical concerns associated with some mined diamonds, such as conflict diamonds or those mined in environmentally damaging ways
• Sustainability: The production of lab-grown diamonds typically has a lower environmental impact compared to diamond mining, which can involve habitat destruction and the release of harmful pollutants.
• Cost-Effective: Lab-grown diamonds are more affordable than their natural counterparts, making high-quality or larger diamond jewellery more accessible to a wider range of consumers.
• Quality: Lab-grown diamonds can be engineered with specific characteristics, such as color and clarity, making it easier to find a diamond of higher quality.
• Perceived Value: Some consumers still perceive natural diamonds as having a higher intrinsic value and emotional significance due to their rarity and natural origin Lab grown diamonds values have depreciated by over 75% since 2018*
• Limited Size and Color Options: While lab-grown diamonds are available in various sizes and colors, they may not offer the same range as natural diamonds. Extremely large or fancy-colored lab-grown diamonds can be relatively rare. A few years ago, lab grown could only be found in 1 carat or under, today we will find 2,3 and even 4 carat lab grown diamonds on the market.
• Energy Consumption: The production of lab-grown diamonds requires significant energy, particularly in high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) and chemical vapor deposition (CVD) methods. Critics argue that this energy use may offset some of the environmental benefits.
• Market Confusion: Some consumers may find it challenging to distinguish between lab-grown and natural diamonds, potentially leading to market confusion and concerns about disclosure and authenticity.
In summary, lab-grown diamonds offer ethical and sustainable alternatives to mined diamonds, with significant cost savings. However, consumer perceptions, future value, energy consumption, and market transparency issues are important factors to consider when evaluating lab-grown diamonds versus natural ones.
DIAMOND SHAPES
STONE CUTS
GEMSTONES
Gemstones are exquisite minerals that have captivated humans for their remarkable beauty and inherent value for centuries. They are typically classified into two categories: precious and semi-precious. These are based on the stone’s hardness
The Mohs scale, named after its creator Friedrich Mohs, is a standardized system used to measure the hardness of minerals and gemstones. It ranks minerals on a scale from 1 (the softest) to 10 (the hardest) based on their resistance to scratching.
PRECIOUS GEMSTONES
Precious gemstones are a select group of rare and highly valuable stones prized for their hardness, rarity, beauty, and historical significance The most wellknown precious gemstones include diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. Each of these gemstones is celebrated for its exceptional color, clarity, and durability. As we already learned about diamonds, we will explore Sapphires, Rubies & Emeralds.
Ruby gemstones belong to the corundum mineral family, distinguished by their vivid red coloration caused by the presence of chromium. In contrast, other hues of corundum are categorized as sapphires.
Sapphire is a precious gemstone, a variety of the mineral corundum Blue is the best-known sapphire colour, however they occur in other vibrant colors, and can also be colorless.
Emerald is a gemstone and a variety of the mineral beryl colored green by trace amounts of chromium or sometimes vanadium. Most emeralds have lots of material trapped inside during the gem's formation, so their toughness is classified as generally poor.
Lab-grown rubies, sapphires, and emeralds provide an excellent substitute for natural precious gemstones, offering a more accessible and cost-effective alternative in terms of value.
SEMI-PRECIOUS GEMSTONES
Semi-precious gemstones encompass a broader range of minerals that, while not as hard, rare or valuable as precious gems, still possess captivating colors and properties. This category includes a vast array of stones like amethyst, citrine, garnet, and morganite, among many others. Semi-precious gemstones are used in a wide variety of jewellery applications, offering a diverse palette of colors and characteristics. We will review the most popular semi-precious stones.
Amethyst is crystalline quartz in colors ranging from pale lilac to deep reddish purple. The February birthstone makes a fine, durable gemstone for jewellery pieces.
Topaz has an exceptionally wide color range that, besides blue, includes various tones and saturations of brown, green, yellow, orange, red, pink, and purple. Colorless topaz is plentiful and is often treated to give it a blue color.
Citrine is the yellow to red-orange variety of crystalline quartz. Clever marketing and the rise of “earth tone” fashions have made this durable and readily available gem a popular jewellery stone in recent years.
Garnet. Although commonly associated with the colour red, garnets can be found in almost any color and are popular choices for jewellery of all types. The January birthstone is not a single gem species but a complex family of many species and varieties.
Peridot sometimes called chrysolite, is a yellowishgreen transparent variety of olivine. Peridot is one of the few gemstones that occur in only one color.
Aquamarine - Named after the color of sea water, aquamarine is the blue to blue-green member of the beryl family. Readily available and moderately priced, the modern March birthstone makes an excellent jewellery stone.
Morganite - A member of the beryl family, morganite shows a range of pink colors due to traces of manganese. Recently, this gemstone has seen an increase in popularity and value.
Pearls - A pearl is a hard, glistening object produced within the soft tissue of a living shelled mollusk or another animal. Pearls can be natural or cultured. Mother of pearl is another type of pearl called nacre.
Opals are in a class by themselves. As a species, opal is so unique it has its own descriptive vocabulary. More than any other gem, each opal is distinctly individual. Opals are also the most delicate gemstones commonly worn and require special care.
Tanzanite - Poised between lush blue, vibrant violet, and rich purple, exotic tanzanite is found in only one place on earth, near majestic Mount Kilimanjaro.
BIRTHSTONE CHART
GEMSTONES - OTHERS
In the realm of jewellery, aside from precious and semi-precious stones, you'll encounter a range of alternative "gemstones" that offer a playful and budgetfriendly substitute for their authentic counterparts.
Cubic zirconia is the cubic crystalline form of zirconium dioxide. The synthesized material is hard and usually colorless but may be made in a variety of different colors. It should not be confused with zircon, which is a zirconium silicate.
Moissanite, referred to as a diamond simulant, is engineered to give the illusion of similarity to diamonds, but is compositionally and visually quite different from a real diamond. The durability, brilliance, and color of the two gems are quite distinct.
Crystal or Swarovski Crystal- Swarovski is a brand name for a range of precision-cut crystal glass which is made only by its producers in Austria. Generic crystal is also cut glass. They do not occur naturally in the Earth.
Cameo jewellery comprises pieces featuring relief carvings of individuals, animals, or scenes, typically crafted from materials like agate, onyx, or shell. This style of jewellery boasts a rich history dating back to ancient times, with the popularity of cameos experiencing fluctuations throughout the centuries.
In summary, gemstones, whether precious or semi-precious, are cherished for their aesthetic appeal, symbolic meanings, and cultural significance. They have been an integral part of human history, adorning jewellery, artifacts, and heirlooms, and continue to be cherished for their enduring beauty and individual qualities.
JEWELLERY ATTRIBUTES
In this section we will look at the anatomy of a ring, different types of settings, chain types and jewellery elements you will encounter in your career as jewellery professional.
