| Diamond Feature
Goodman Morris
the whole of Bond Street is trying to seduce them at the same time,” says Stephen Webster. “We have however designed a completely new core collection that looks very contemporary, still with a SW edge but has a more open, delicate feel. I have always refused to dumb down the design.” Carli Onguc of online retail jewellery business Diamonds & Rings has noticed that customers are opting for lower diamond colour and clarities, while still being able to achieve their desired carat weight for budget. It’s a trend that Tim Sebrechts at 5C has also noticed – “an echo of three years ago when gold prices led to customers asking for very lightweight items. These days nothing is
much more than fancy cuts, has meant that for some fancies are enjoying something of a moment. “For the same quality you can get quite a bit bigger fancy cut – square are very much in fashion, as well as pear and heart shapes,” says Ricky Krochmal of Krochmal & Lieber. Neil Josyfon of Josyfon agrees that price is influencing cut. “It’s been all about rounds but for fashion pieces in particular, the difference in price between rounds and fancies has made fancies more popular; people are looking at other options – like cushions,” he says. “What’s most important is that the stone is nicely manufactured – I physically go to the market and choose it.”
Gemex also sell more rounds than any other shape, closely followed by princess cuts. “But all our stones are so well calibrated, which means that straight-edged baguettes are selling very well,” adds Lee Ruben of Gemex, “and we also do a lot of marquise, emerald and carré.” Creators of bespoke jewellery, particularly the more avante garde jewellers, find that their customers are more adventurous with their choice of diamond shapes. “People want more design from me, they’re not looking for standard,” confirms Davis. “They tend to be open-minded about the shape of a stone. If they don’t go for rounds – which carry a premium – they can get bigger for London Road
“The cut that will make or break a diamond and creates the difference between something that is ordinary and a diamond that can take your breath away” ‘cheap’ in diamond jewellery, even in the ‘first price’ segment,” he says. “Because of the economy people are being forced to be more creative – so perhaps they’re considering more smaller, maybe pavé stones,” says jewellery designer Alexander Davis. “But they still want bespoke and an engagement ring shouldn’t be skimped on. Compared to what else is spent on a wedding it’s good value!”
The cuts above The price of diamonds not only has an impact on the quality of stones retailers and consumers are choosing, but also the shape. While round stones are undoubtedly the biggest sellers – always were, always will be – the fact that prices of these have risen
52 The Jeweller October 2011
Stubbs & Co
their money. I love cushion shapes for most stones.” At Nicholas James, while round brilliants are the popular ‘safe’ choice, they’re seeing “a huge surge in demand for fancy shapes – pear and marquise in particular.” “We still find that a colourless round brilliant cut is an extremely popular and classic choice; however we are noticing a move towards some other cuts from our clients,” adds Nicky Goodman of Goodman Morris. “Rose and old cuts seem to sit well with the slightly more ‘boho’ and vintage looks that are emerging. I find myself wondering if their more subtle twinkle as opposed to the brilliant cut’s obvious fiery sparkle is a reflection of a mood of understatement. A move against conspicuous consumption and ostentation in these financially uncertain times; almost a ‘stealth wealth’ thing perhaps.”