Dissertation Thesis | The Plastic Berg Problem

THE PLASTIC BERG PROBLEM

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM

THE PLASTIC BERG PROBLEM

Accelerating the disrupted momentum towards the democratisation of sustainable packaging within the fashion retail industry. by Jessica Price McEwan 18124704

Submitted to the School of Fashion and Textiles Birmingham City University In Fulfilment of Requirements for the Degree of Fashion Business and Promotion BA (Hons) December 2020 JESSICA PRICE MCEWAN

THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | ABSTRACT

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ABSTRACT This study seeks to accelerate the momentum towards the democratisation of sustainable packaging in the fashion industry.

In this study, 250 participants were surveyed to question their attitudes towards sustainable packaging in the fashion industry, and their retail habits during the COVID-19 lockdown(s). Latterly, a focus group with UK homeowners was conducted to determine their values around plastic recycling in the household. Additionally, two interviews with industry professionals were used as research instruments, resulting in invaluable discussions throughout the study.

Key conclusions from this study were that consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the plastic polybag proliferation, and the exponential environmental consequences. It has assessed the barriers that COVID-19 has had, diluting sustainability on global industry consciousnesses. Through this study, crosssectoral businesses have demonstrated their innovation but recognise financial constraints are withholding a united front for sustainable solutions in packaging.

This study recommends that globally, industries need to take this opportunity in the rebuild of economic growth and act now, to protect the environment and create positive circularity within supply chains and business models. It can also be concluded that legislative driving forces, such as taxations on plastic packaging should be enforced to encourage all fashion brands to adopt change, and not be deterred by financial woes.

Finally, it also recommends that further research can be undertaken to establish the relationship between branding, packaging and sustainability, in order to fulfil the consumer led gap between, consciousness, storytelling and innovation.

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to express my gratitude to the industry experts who have elevated my study through their invaluable responses to my questions. I offer my sincere appreciation to Peter van der Schagt, Rebecca Pickard, Amy Lee, Sabina Rachimaro and Samantha Barrows for their time and willingness to participate.

Additionally, I want to thank the participants of my focus group, who shared their thoughts, values and opinions upon areas of my study. To Lynn and Jon Gill, Alison Cowie, Michael and Adrian Payne, Lorraine Price, Chris, James and John McEwan; I send my heartfelt thanks.

My completion of this project would not have been accomplished without the support of my module tutor, Caroline Raybould, who continually pushed and furthered my research methods and analysis. Her contextual knowledge on sustainability aided me in exploring multiple avenues of study and innovation.

Finally, to my family and friends who have read endless paragraph drafts, listened to my non-stop research findings, and reminded me to have a break when necessary; I thank you whole-heartedly.

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | CONTENTS

CONTENTS 88

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ABSTRACT

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

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CONTENTS

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LIST OF TABLES & FIGURES

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GLOSSARY

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INTRODUCTION

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METHODOLOGY

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WRAPPED UP IN PLASTICS

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BARRIERS TOWARDS SUSTAINABLE BEHAVIOURS

24 30 32 34 38

42 46 56 66

90 92 96 102

104 108 110

1.1 CONSUMPTION OF PLASTICS 1.2 EXISTING LEGISLATIONS 1.3 THE BLUE PLANET EFFECT 1.4 ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS 1.5 SUMMARY

2.1 DEEP DIVE ON RECYCLING 2.2 THE CONSUMER RESPONSIBILITY 2.3 PANDEMIC-ERA PLASTIC POLLUTION 2.4 SUMMARY

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EXTERNAL ANALYSIS

70 72 76 80 86

3.1 FOOD INDUSTRY 3.2 UBER EATS CASE STUDY 3.3 BEAUTY & SKINCARE INDUSTRY 3.4 MAIIRO CASE STUDY 3.5 SUMMARY

CHANGES, ONGOING & EMERGING

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114 130 136

PACKAGING INNOVATION

4.1 THE FASHION PACT 4.2 ECO GARMENT BAGS 4.3 FASHIONING FUTURE INNOVATIONS 4.4 SUMMARY

CONCLUSION RECOMMENDATIONS FUTURE STUDIES ANNOTATED REFERENCES IMAGE REFERENCES APPENDICES

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | TABLES & FIGURES

LIST OF TABLES AND FIGURES 49

Table 1 | Barriers to Consumer Recycling in the UK Author’s own. Contains in-text citations found in reference list.

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Table 2 | Focus Group (key findings) Author’s own. Contains in-text citations found in reference list.

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Table 3 | Maiiro Interview Q&A (key responses) Author’s own. Contains in-text citations found in reference list.

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Table 4 | The Fashion Pact Brands The Fashion Pact, 2020. The Fashion Pact - The Fashion Pact. [online] The Fashion Pact. Available at: <https://thefashionpact.org/?lang=en> [Accessed 14 November 2020].

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Table 5 | Eco Garment Bags (key findings) Author’s own. Contains in-text citations found in reference list.

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Table 6 | Features of Finisteere Packaging Author’s own. Contains in-text citations found in reference list.

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Table 7 | Benfits of BioFlex™ Author’s own. Contains in-text citations found in reference list.

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Table 8 | Fashioning Futures Talk from Industry Professionals Author’s own. Contains references found in appendices.

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Figure 1 | Map of Global Plastic Waste Generation per person Jambeck et al, 2015. Plastic Waste Generation Per Person. [online] Our World in Data.

Available at: <https://ourworldindata.org/grapher/plastic-waste-per-capita> [Accessed 6 November 2020].

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Figure 2 | Chart of Mean Product Lifetime of Plastic Geyer et al., 2017. Mean Product Lifetime Of Plastic Uses. [online] Our World in Data.

Available at: <https://ourworldindata.org/grapher/mean-product-lifetime-plastic?time=2015> [Accessed 6 November 2020].

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Figure 3 | Map of Global Legislations for Plastic Recycling Berger, R., 2020. Sustainable Packaging - A New Approach. [online] Content.rolandberger.com. Available at: <https://content.rolandberger.com/hubfs/Roland-Berger_Packaging-Sustainability-Study.pdf?utm_campaign=20-0142_CEI_NP_Packagingsustainability&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=96754960&_hsenc=p2ANqtz_CpJzecb1ZsQB4rr4LAmytc8HhjOT5khYYj1Tn4g8EA4rXskyG0r7_9Yayi8__gvR8Nf7MqMEmkmibozgKTWXyXwZaE95LSDE2xuBnq16bw_kNUk&utm_content=96754960&utm_source=hs_automation> [Accessed 20 October 2020].

Figure 4 | Map of the Great Pacific Garbage Patch The Ocean Cleanup, n.d. The Great Pacific Garbage Patch | The Ocean Cleanup. [on10

line] The Ocean Cleanup. Available at: <https://theoceancleanup.com/great-pacific-garbage-patch/> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

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Figure 5 | Map of Global Recycling and Waste Management Berger, R., 2020. Sustainable Packaging - A New Approach. [online] Content.rolandberger.com. Available at: <https://content.rolandberger.com/ hubfs/Roland-Berger_Packaging-Sustainability-Study.pdf?utm_campaign=20-0142_CEI_NP_Packagingsustainability&utm_medium=email&_ hsmi=96754960&_hsenc=p2ANqtz_CpJzecb1ZsQB4rr4LAmytc8HhjOT5khYYj1Tn4g8EA4rXskyG0r7_9Yayi8__gvR8Nf7MqMEmkmibozgKTWXyXwZaE95LSDE2xuBnq16bw_kNUk&utm_content=96754960&utm_source=hs_automation> [Accessed 20 October 2020].

Figure 6 |Chart of Recycling Behaviours in the UK household BBC, 2018. Why Plastic Recycling Is So Confusing. [online] BBC News. Available at: <https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-45496884> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

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Figure 7 | Chart of YouTube Usage increase during lockdown Clement, J., 2020. U.S. Youtube Usage Increase Due To Coronavirus 2020 | Statista. [online] Statista. Available at: <https://www.statista.com/statistics/1106313/youtube-usage-increase-due-to-coronavirus-home-usa/> [Accessed 22 October 2020].

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Figure 8 | Chart of online food delivery in Asia Pacific Deloitte, 2019. Future Of Food | How Technology And Global Trends Are Transforming The Food Industry | Uber Eats. [online] Www2.deloitte.com. Available at: <https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/au/Documents/Economics/ deloitte-au-economics-future-food-uber-eats-100719.pdf> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

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Figure 9 | Image of UberEats App UberEats, 2020. Sustainability | Enviropack, In Partnership With Uber Eats | Enviropack, In Partnership With Ubereats. [online] Ubereats.enviropack.org.uk. Available at: <https://ubereats.enviropack.org.uk/sustainability/> [Accessed 14 October 2020].

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Figure 10 | Image of Era Zero Waste Business Model Caldwell, G., 2020. Era Zero Waste To Launch Milkman-Style Service For Personal Care - Global Cosmetics News. [online] Global Cosmetics News. Available at: <https://www.globalcosmeticsnews.com/era-zero-waste-to-launch-milkman-styleservice-for-personal-care/> [Accessed 23 November 2020].

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | GLOSSARY

GLOSSARY Anthropocene | the current geological age, viewed as the period during which human activity has been the dominant influence on climate and the environment.

Baby Boomers | a person born in the years following the Second World War, when there was a temporary marked increase in the birth rate.

CAGR | compound annual growth rate.

Democratisation | the action of making something accessible to everyone.

Gen X | refers to the generation born after that of the baby boomers (roughly from the early 1960s to late 1970s), typically perceived to be disaffected and directionless.

Gen Z | refers to the generation that was born between 1996-2010, following millennials. This generation has been raised on the internet and social media, with some the oldest finishing college by 2020 and entering the workforce.

Great Pacific Garbage Patch | a collection of marine debris in the North Pacific Ocean. Marine debris is litter that ends up in oceans, seas, and other large bodies of water. The Great Pacific Garbage Patch, also known as the Pacific trash vortex, spans waters from the West Coast of North America to Japan.

Greenwashing | is the process of conveying a false impression or providing misleading information about how a companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s products are more environmentally sound.

Industrial Composting | is an established process for transforming biodegradable waste of biological origin into stable, sanitised products to be used in agriculture.

Millennial | a person reaching young adulthood in the early 21st century; anyone born between 1981 and 1996 (ages 24 to 39 in 2020) is considered a Millennial.

Ocean Acidification | refers to a reduction in the pH of the ocean over an extended period of time, caused primarily by uptake of carbon dioxide (CO2) from the atmosphere.

Polymer | a substance which has a molecular structure built up chiefly or completely from a large number of similar units bonded together, e.g. many synthetic organic materials used as plastics and resins.

Youtube Hauling | Youtube haul is a type of video in which an influencer will show off a large number of clothes that they have obtained within a small amount of time.

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THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE THERE

THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM

IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS IS

NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET PLANET

B B B B B B B B B B B B B B JESSICA PRICE MCEWAN

THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | INTRODUCTION

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INTRODUCTION Accelerating the disrupted momentum towards the democratisation of sustainable packaging within the fashion retail industry.

Currently, the world finds itself isolated in the rich soup of environmental, political, economic, technological, scientific and social turmoil of present day. An array of multi-disciplinary challenges are posing barriers to the progression of a sustainable future, and the reconsideration of single-use plastic.

Sustainability: one of the fast-becoming integral functions of packaging. Alongside ensuring global compliance, regulations with hygiene concerns and protection during transit, fossilbased polyethene (PE) bags are having a detrimental effect on the environment. Over 80 billion plastic bags are used annually to ship garments (Dennison, 2020) and due to the versatility, durability and functionality of plastic, it is a hard material to replace. As growth in e-commerce sales continue, customers have become more aware of the environmental effects of plastics, making an alternative solution paramount.

Yet, whilst the fashion industry has seen steady improvements towards eco-solutions for packaging, far more needs to be done to achieve circularity for all brands, industry and consumers.

The objective of this study is to (i) establish existing issues within the retail packaging industry, and the environmental impacts; (ii) assess barriers around plastic recycling practices, factors effecting sustainable behaviours and how Covid-19 has shifted industry and consumer consciousness; (iii) present two distinct case studies demonstrating external industry responses; (iv) identify opportunities for fashion brands to achieve circularity through packaging innovation. It is hoped that from this investigative research, sustainable packaging will become democratised within the industry, thus becoming the subconscious ideology of brands and consumers.

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM

â&#x20AC;&#x153;IF ALL OF IT FILM IT WOU THAN ENOUG THE WHOL

BERNERS

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T WERE CLING ULD BE MORE GH TO WRAP LE PLANET.”

S-LEE, 2019

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | METHODOLOGY

METHODOLOGY In order to investigate the over-arching aim of this study, several research methods were employed. Firstly, to gain an initial understanding of consumers existing attitudes towards plastic packaging in the fashion industry, a questionnaire conducted on social media platform Instagram, targeted towards millennials and Gen Z. Respondents were asked a set of close-ended questions around their usage of online retail during lockdown, spending habits, packaging preferences, and how they dispose of the packaging post-use. The sample size was approximately 250 (please note: some participants skipped questions), with a 67% female and 33% male respondent mix. Alongside this, feedback boxes were provided for participants to add any additional openended thoughts they felt were relevant, in order to form qualitative data (see Appendix 1).

Secondly, to define consumer attitudes and values around plastic recycling in the average UK household, an online focus group in November 2020 was held through Microsoft Teams. Participants were asked to share thoughts around a set of open-ended statements such as plastic packaging consumption, recycling, and environmental impacts. There were 9 participants all between Gen X or Baby Boomers; with 4 males and 5 females (see Appendix 2).

Additionally, two one-to-one interviews were held with industry experts who provided an insight into their own practices within their sector. Firstly, through email correspondence in November 2020, Peter van der Schagt, Research and Development Manager for Maiiro Skincare answered a set of structured questions, investigating more into the businessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sustainability approaches both in product, packaging and marketing campaigns (see Appendix 3).

Secondly, Rebecca Pickard, CEO of Eco Garment Bags, conducted an online interview through Microsoft Teams and identified her business purpose, alongside a range of so-called eco packaging solutions, that on evaluation, are not so sustainable (see Appendix 4).

Finally, in November 2020 an online industry talk, Fashioning Futures, was used as a valuable source to ask direct questions to an expert panel on what their sectors are doing to combat plastic packaging. This primary research enabled engagement and an insight into future innovations (see Appendix 5).

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | WRAPPED UP IN PLASTICS

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WRAPPED UP IN PLASTICS During this chapter, existing issues within the retail packaging industry will be identified, alongside the environmental impacts this is having, both on marine life, the oceans and human food chains. This will be assessed as a global issue, demonstrating an importance for a united response.

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1.1

THE CONSUMPTION OF PLASTIC Plastic. A versatile material that has dominated aspects of everyday life since it’s invention over a hundred years ago. In 1907, Belgian-American chemist, Leo Baekeland created the ‘Bakelite’, which became the first mass-produced plastic (Science History Institute, 2020). It was marketed as “the material of a thousand uses” and since, due to its desirable properties, has emerged its way into virtually every industry sector. Presently, the average person in the UK generates 0.21kg of plastic waste per day (Jambeck et al. 2015). That’s 6.39kg a month, or 76.65kg per year, per person. Figure 1 shows the global consumption of plastic waste per person. From this, it can be concluded that Germany has one of the highest plastic consumption per person, per year.

Figure 1

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PRODUCT LIFETIME As well as this, the lifecycle of plastic uses from production to itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s disposable, demonstrate the consumption of plastics across industries. Figure 2 suggests that plastics used for building and construction have a lifespan of 35 years (Geyer et al., 2017). This is likely due to their much denser properties making itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s usage more long-lasting. However, plastics for packaging has a mean product lifecycle of only 6 months. This is likely due to the properties much thinner, thus making them singleuse plastics. Additionally, a study suggests that plastic bags are used for an average of 12 minutes, but a single plastic bag has a life expectancy of up to 1,000 years (Environment Massachusetts, n.d.). Therefore, it can be concluded that the lifespan of plastics needs to be elongated to maximise its purpose.

Figure 2

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THE VALUE OF PLASTICS

The global recycled plastics market reached a value of US$ 35.4 billion in 2018. The market is further projected to reach US$ 50.5 billion by 2024, growing at a CAGR of 6.1% during 2019-2024 (Markets, 2019). A study in the Ellen MacArthur Foundation Report suggests that globally, only 14% of plastic packaging is recycled, be that road-side collection or local recycling corporations (Ellen MacArthur Foundation Report, 2018). However, recycling the remaining 86% of used plastics could create £62.84bn £94.26bn in revenues worldwide (Ellen MacArthur Foundation Report, 2018).

But it’s not just plastic mailing bags that are fashions packaging culprits, leaving a large footprint on sustainable efforts. Fashion designer, Roland Mouret suggests that “plastic hangers are the ‘plastic straw’ of the fashion industry” (Mouret, 2019). It is estimated that 150 billion garments are produced and shipped every year. Whilst there are currently no figures available for hanger production, locally or globally, it can be concluded that if just two thirds of the garments use retail-to-factory hangers, an estimated 100 billion hangers are used annually (Mouret, 2019). The majority of these hangers are single-use, and approximately 85% will end up in landfill, taking upwards of 1,000 years to degrade (Mouret, 2019).

With the support of the British Fashion Council, Mouret launched the #SwitchToBlue campaign, using 100% recycled plastic ocean waste to design “fully circular hangers”, encouraging brands and industries to adapt and adopt his way of thinking.

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1.2

EXISTING LEGISLATIONS Figure 3 illustrates the effectiveness of packaging waste legislation on a global scale, with Canada, Norway and Sweden one of the few countries with high performance. Comparatively, a significant number of countries such as Brazil, North West and North East Africa remain unlegislated (Berger, 2020). But with international lawyers draft planning to criminalise ecosystem destruction, future predictions could become more promising (Bowcott, 2020).

In October 2015, UK government legislations were put in place against single-use plastic carrier bags in stores. This led to an 86% decline in disposable bags being issued by supermarkets and is estimated that 15 billion bags have been taken out of circulation (Defra, 2018). The Environment Secretary, George Eustice, regarded this as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;tremendous successâ&#x20AC;? and since pledged to double the fee of plastic shopping bags to 10p by April 2021 (Defra, 2018). However, the fight against plastic pollution continues to withstand, having detrimental effects on biodiversity as microfibre plastics enter the food chain. It is estimated that 1.2 million tonnes of plastic film from packaging arises in the UK waste stream every year. Of this, two thirds are post-consumer, including online delivery packaging waste (WRAP, 2018). On a global scale, current estimates show that at least 8 million pieces of plastic are entering the oceans every single day (Surfers Against Sewage, 2020).

Figure 3

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1.3

THE BLUE PLANET EFFECT

For decades eco-warriors have been trying to get their voice heard, in a bid to make a change in the fight against plastic. In 2017, David Attenborough’s final episode of the series, Blue Planet Il aired on the BBC, showcasing the raw and long-lasting damage that societal consumption of plastic is having on the oceans.

“Nearly nine in 10 consumers (88%) who saw the effect of plastics on the oceans have changed their behaviour since. 60% of consumers now choose a refillable water bottle and coffee cup more than before, and Waitrose has seen an 800% increase in questions about plastics from customers” (Waitrose, 2019).

Founder of the Global Sustainability Trust, Andrew Dykes dubbed this as the ‘Blue Planet effect’ (Bow, 2019), due to the substantial change in consumer behaviours and attitudes towards single-use plastic. It can be concluded from this, that once consumers see the physical effects plastic waste has, they are more likely to actively make a change to their behaviour and plastic waste disposal.

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1.4

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS

Anthropocene “The era in which human influence is the dominant source of change to the eco system” (Berners-Lee, 2019) Despite positive direction, plastic pollution in the ocean, particularly micro plastics, still pose an increasingly devastating effect on the welfare of marine life. The Future of the Sea report suggests that the amount of plastic debris in the sea is predicted to increase from 50 billion metric tons in 2015, to 150 billion metric tons by 2025 (UK Government, 2018). In 2018, a study from the National University of Ireland in Galway showed that 73% of Atlantic deepsea fish surveyed had ingested micro plastics (Brown, 2018). To further this, current rates of plastic are expected to outweigh all the fish in the sea by 2050 (Biological Diversity, 2020).

A global study commissioned by WWF and conducted by the University of Newcastle, Australia, discovered that on average, people would be ingesting 5 grams of micro plastics each week. That’s approximately 21 grams a month; 250 grams a year (WWF, 2019).

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THE GREAT PACIFIC GARBAGE PATCH Potentially the worst accumulation of plastic waste in the ocean, is now widely regarded as the Great Pacific Garbage Patch (GPGD). The buildup is made of gyres, which occur when airflows moving from the tropics to the polar regions and create a clockwise rotating air mass, driving oceanic surface currents in the same direction (Siegle, 2018). Therefore, disregarded plastic waste is simultaneously swept up amongst the seawater, and due to its buoyancy, floats above the surface as a dramatically visible display of debris. The Great Pacific Garbage Patch was coined and discovered in 1997 by oceanographer Captain Charles Moore. Over 20 years later, and the GPGD has grown at a shocking rate. In 2017, a team of researchers found that the patch was sixteen times bigger than previous estimates; stretching 600,000 square miles of ocean, containing an estimated 1.8 trillion pieces of rubbish, of which 99.9 per cent is plastic (Leberton, 2018).

Figure 4

A secondary environmental factor, affecting the atmosphere, but more notably the ocean, is the increase in CO2 from burning fossil fuels; ocean acidification. Due to the imbalance of pH, acidification reduces the ability of marine life to produce shells and skeletons. Furthermore, it is expected that the seawater acidity is projected to rise to 150% by 2100 (Physical Science Basis, 2013). This truly highlights the importance of reducing plastic waste consumption across all industries, but particularly fashion e-commerce.

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1.5

SUMMARY In summary, education for both consumers and industries, on these pressing issues is paramount, in order to create positive circles and head to a circular economy. Radical ecologist, Barry Commoner suggests that “everything is connected to everything else” in the Four Laws of Ecology, and that all healthy ecosystems are inter-connected and self-stabilising. It is believed that if any society ignores this, it invites ecological and social turmoil (Commoner, 1971). Paired with Commoner’s theory, present day eco-systems are creating negative circles of connections and thus need to be modified for sustained circularity across all sectors.

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | BARRIERS TOWARDS SUSTAINABLE BEHAVIOURS

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BARRIERS TOWARDS SUSTAINABLE BEHAVIOURS This chapter identifies various barriers towards sustainable behaviours, through global recycling practices, consumer attitudes, and how COVID-19 has diluted industry and consumer consciousness towards sustainability.

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2.1

DEEP DIVE ON RECYCLING Recycling is a process that dates back as far as 1031, where the first record of paper recycling was in Japan, strategically used to conserve materials and maximise output (Hintons, 2018). Nearly 70 years postinvention, the first recycling mill to accept residential plastic began operations in 1972 (Plastics Make It Possible, 2015) and since, is a worldwide recognised practice. Figure 5 illustrates the current collection and recycling performance across the globe (Berger, 2020). From this, it can be concluded that Canada and Mongolia have the largest accumulation of landfill waste, upward of 450kg per capita. Comparatively, China and India are notably front-runners in the performance of recycling, with downward of 150 kg per capita. Given that China’s “National Sword” policy, enacted in January 2018, banned the import of most plastics (Katz, 2019) it could be suggested that this has accelerated the countries performance in plastic waste management.

Figure 5

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2.2

THE CONSUMER RESPONSIBILITY An imperative factor effecting sustainable behaviours, is that of the consumer themselves. As the elusive green consumer tribe continues to grow, it is suggested that “sustainability remains a nebulous concept that means different things to different people and continues to shift as a priority over time” (Willersdorf and Mitchell, 2020). Additionally, a survey by Harvard Business review, found that 65% said they want to buy purpose-driven brands that advocate sustainability, yet only about 26% actually do so (White, 2019). Similarly, Neliana Fuenmayor, founder of A Transparent Company suggests that “every day, we vote with our wallets” and continues to say, “as consumers we have a right to ask and demand answers. That is how brands will accelerate and change. If the consumers stay passive, so the brands will too” (Bravo, 2020). Therefore, it can be concluded from this that consumers play an important role in the democratisation of sustainable approaches in fashion retail packaging.

a group of Millennial and Generation Z consumers were asked if they felt online fashion parcels often come with too much packaging (see Appendix 1). 93% of the sample group agreed, demonstrating that consumers are becoming increasingly aware of fashion brands lack of responsibility towards packaging and sustainable approaches. Luna Atamian Hahn-Petersen, senior manager at PricewaterhouseCoopers alludes to this by suggesting that “Consumers, especially millennials and Gen-Z, are becoming more aware of the issue of a single-use plastics,” (Topic and Mitchell, 2019).

But why isn’t this a subconscious ideology of all consumers? The prompts of environmentally responsible behaviours can show in motivational, cognitive, and behavioural barriers. For example, individuals are often put off taking more sustainable approaches to their waste due to unclear direction from positions of authority and lack of education on the impacts of their consumption (BBC, 2018).

These misconceptions lead to choices being made not necessarily based on rational, sustainability principles, but with their own beliefs about sustainable products (Steenis, 2017). Maslow coined this as metamotivation, outlining that once the basic needs (food, clothing shelter) are fulfilled, humans tend to care more about issues other than those which have a more immediate effect upon them (Maslow, 1970).

As well as this, Mintel research analyst, Chana Baram found that 31% of consumers said that they would be willing to choose one fashion brand over another, if they used eco-friendly delivery packaging / shopping bags (Baram, 2020). This illustrates that there is positive growth in consumer attitudes to eco-friendly packaging and therefore, can be concluded that this should be adopted by all brands. To further this, 47

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BARRIERS TO CONSUMER BEHAVIOURS However, there are a number of other barriers that reduce the amount of plastic that is recycled, thus increasing the amount that is sent to landfill:

Table 1

Figure 6

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FOCUS GROUP A focus group was conducted, offering participants the opportunity to discuss their values and attitudes towards plastic recycling, packaging and the environmental impact. Outlined below are the key responses (see Appendix 2).

Table 2

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Table 2

In summary, participants reaffirmed through discussion the complexity of recycling in the UK and their values on environmental impacts. It could be suggested that the demographic of this study has become heightened to such issues, in securing a future for their children. A study concluded that 85% of over 55s recycle, versus 54% of 16-24-year olds, whilst 66% avoid single use plastics versus 55% (Williams, 2020). Therefore, whilst commonly suggested that Gen Z and Millennials are the front-runners in sustainable thinking, matured generations demonstrate a wide level of understanding.

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S BREAKING INTO TWO E THOSE WHO BUY OFF CK AND CHEAP ETC AND IATED WITH THAT. BUT DE. PEOPLE ARE NOW E, QUESTIONING THEIR ON WHAT THEY NEED.”

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2.3

PANDEMIC-ERA PLASTIC POLLUTION In December 2019, the COVID-19 virus reportedly spread from Wuhan, China, where it continued to spread and effect the whole world. As well as posing huge health consequences, the global economy was hit with large impacts, with the slowing down of business and loss of economic growth across the globe. But how does this effect the packaging industry? In the short run, COVID-19 has disrupted the momentum for sustainable packaging both within the fashion industry and much more broadly. A study by Roland Berger suggests the virus has had the following impact: - Increase in single-use packaging for food and safety concerns ie. PPE - Increase in packaging for home deliveries - Diluted short-term focus of producers on sustainability topics (Berger, 2020).

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SINGLE-USE PACKAGING INCREASE Firstly, globally there has been a vast increase in the use of single-use plastics due to the essentialism of personal protective equipment (PPE). According to a study conducted

by Environmental Science and Technology, an estimated 194 billion disposable masks and gloves are being used worldwide every month as a result of the coronavirus pandemic (Holder, 2020). Further research conducted by the Waste Free Oceans suggests that disposable plastic masks that end up at sea could take up to 450 years to fully decompose and leave the marine ecosystem (Waste Free Oceans, 2020). Therefore, whilst PPE is an essential everyday item, only contributing further to the catastrophic effects on the environment.

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THE OVER CONSUMPTION OF ONLINE RETAIL Alongside this, online retail sales in the UK soared during the month of June 2020, despite non-essential brick-andmortar stores staging a reopening. Overall, online retail sales surged 33.9 per cent year-on-year, which made a new 12-year high since March 2008 (Jahshan, 2020). As the acceleration of online retail is driving the fashion industry faster and faster, demand for plastic presents itself in online delivery and packaging more than ever. According to Mintel (2017), 47% of active online consumers agreed that products came with excessive packaging, that was disproportionate and unnecessary to the product itself.

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QUARANTAINMENT However, the rapid incline in home delivery could also be due to the crossover between physical and digital, which has been accelerated by the pandemic. In 2018, it was forecasted an emerging youth retail strategy around ‘third spaces’ (digital worlds where Gen Z can shop, and engage) and since that post-pandemic, quarantainment will remain a new normal across generations (WGSN, 2020). Figure 7 shows 39.4% of respondents believe that they will use Youtube ‘significantly more’ throughout lockdown (Clement, 2020). Whilst the streaming economy is not new, it’s increasingly becoming a highly social and interactive shopping option to drive sales (WGSN, 2020). The Youtube fashion hauling culture is a prime example of this, and fashion Youtuber’s play a large contributory factor in the consumption of online packaging, with the constant cycle of overproduction. Saner alludes to this by suggesting that, “the YouTube haul video is one of the most conspicuous manifestations of consumer fashion culture” (Saner, 2018).

Figure 7

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A WAKE-UP CALL. A SELF-REFLECTION CIAL MEDIA, AS THE CRISIS TODAY UNISHMENT FOR GREED.”

2020

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2.4

SUMMARY To summarise, this chapter has assessed barriers around plastic recycling practices, factors effecting sustainable behaviours and how Covid-19 has shifted industry and consumer consciousness. As suggested, “Many individuals are doing what they can. But real success can only come if there is a change in our societies and in our economics and in our politics” (Attenborough, 2019). To further this, in a Fashioning Futures Talk, Sabrina Rachimaro believes that there is a “gap in the educational approach to sustainable fashion” (Rachimaro, 2020). Therefore, these approaches are needed, as well as learning from external industries and their innovations.

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EXTERNAL ANALYSIS:

CHANGES, ONGOING & EMERGING This chapter will discuss changes that are ongoing and emerging in external sectors such as the food, beauty and skincare industry. Two key brand case studies will be outlined to assess the success of their approaches towards sustainable packaging and how the fashion industry could learn from this.

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3.1

THE FOOD INDUSTRY Firstly, at present, the grocery sector accounts for about 70% of the packaging market and each year around 10 million tonnes (mt) of packaging is used in the UK alone (House of Commons, 2018).

4.9 mt is household related and, if it isn’t reused or recycled, can end up in landfill (Wrap, 2018). Large corporations such as Sainsbury’s, Waitrose, Tesco and Marks and Spencer have all pledged to kick start plastic-free initiatives, allowing customers to bring their own containers in-store, in a bid to remove excessive packaging from shelves by 2025 (Mintel, 2018). Partnering with Loop initiative, Tesco have offered customers “sustainable packaging you can feel good about” (Tesco, 2020). Through this, they have offered customers the opportunity to return empty containers, where they will be cleaned and refilled creating a circular product use. Additionally, deliveries are plastic and cardboard free, arriving to customers doorsteps in a reusable Loop tote bag. This shows innovation within the supermarket and grocery sector, as Tesco have clearly identified the need for sustainable packaging amongst their target market.

in global sales.; it is forecast that this will increase to £3.9bn over the next 10 years (Technomic, 2018). However, whilst this has large economical profits across the global market, the environment pays the price. The US category leader, Blue Apron ships 8 million meals a month, with each package containing two six-pound ice packs. The freezer packs, made of plastic accounts for 192,000 tons of waste per year (Butler, 2017). This equates to “the weight of nearly 100,000 cars or 2 million adult men.” A further study suggests that, ultra-packaged meal-kit delivery services, which ship ingredients and recipes for a single meal, are a $1.2 billion market that some analysts expect to more than quadruple by 2023 (Royte, 2019).

By contrast, start-up meal-kit business Sun Basket, founded in the US in 2014, provides a similar service to major market leaders such as Blue Apron and Hello Fresh, but with eco-friendly packaging solutions. Combined with a mix of recyclable boxes, compostable paper packages and reusable ice packs, Sun Basket carefully consider each aspect of their packaging for food produce, and how it can be made sustainably (Sun Basket, 2020). This questions why market leaders are slow to adapt to such changes, given the success and need amongst consumers.

In addition, e-commerce has migrated into the food industry and meal-kits have adhered to the present convenience culture of society. The industry expanded from Sweden, and in 2015 saw £702 m

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3.2

UBER EATS CASE STUDY

Figure 8

Simultaneously, during the lock-down era customers have been consuming home deliveries from restaurants more than ever due to convenience. The first-quarter sales at Uber Eats, one of America’s biggest restaurant-delivery apps, rose by 54% year on year (Investor Uber, 2020). Gross bookings in Uber Eats delivery business grew 113 percent year over year, accelerated by an increased demand for food deliveries.

Uber CEO Dara Khosrowshahi suggests, “the COVID crisis has moved delivery from a luxury to a utility,” (Hawkins, 2020). This suggests that food deliveries have adopted themselves to become a growing necessity within everyday life. Sadly, with this comes the over-consumption of plastic pots and containers and questions how consumers dispose of them post-use. Food service industry consultant Peter Backman suggests that “the price of convenience trumps the environment, but companies will come under pressure to go greener” (Doughty, 2020).

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Figure 9 displays the function that was added in 2019 to the Uber Eats app, allowing customers to “opt-out” of additional cutlery, straws or other single-use plastic packaging options. Through this initiative, Uber Eats are educating their consumers as to why this option has been added, increasing individual’s satisfaction towards making an active change to reduce the plastic pollution problem.

Moreover, Uber Eats have further responded to the wants and needs of its customers, by launching a partnership with Enviropack, offering packaging that uses recycled plastic (RPET) and various other ecofriendly materials (Uber Eats, 2020). This demonstrates that Uber have identified their vast increase in delivery, and that there is a need for sustainable solutions amongst their consumer groups, but questions what they are doing to highlight the importance of circular processes within their whole supply chain. Furthermore, the ultimate responsibility is forwarded to consumers for post-use disposable, depending on what recycling systems are accessible. In a study of Uber Eats conducted by Deloitte, it was suggested that “The industry also has an opportunity to shape its own path and encourage and respond to trends that align with its vision for the future. This could be through educating customers about sustainable food packaging or inventing the next ‘cronut’. Ultimately, innovative businesses that are supported by partnerships in the ecosystem will flourish” (Deloitte, 2019).

Figure 9

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3.3

THE BEAUTY & SKINCARE INDUSTRY Secondly, with the global skin care market estimated to grow to 189.3 billion U.S. dollars by 2025 (Shahbendeh, 2020), an increasingly level of importance needs to be placed on sustainable solutions. The majority of beauty or skincare products more often than not are in plastic packaging; be that shampoo bottles, facewashes, or deodorant sticks. Shampoo bottles alone account for a large proportion of plastic waste; with 520 million thrown away in the UK each year (Hall, 2020). Yet, in previous chapters it was identified that plastics have a lifespan of over 1,000 years, so why are they being discarded post singular use?

Figure 10

adopted a delivery system where refills of personal-care products are sent via carbonneutral mail in compostable pouches (EZW, 2020). To further excel their unique selling point, when 300 customers are reached per city, hand-delivered packages are sent via a bike-refill station, straight to the doorstop.

Here, it can be identified that this startup business has successfully secured a production-to-doorstep business model, ensuring positive circularity and transparency for both the brand and consumers.

New e-commerce beauty brand, Era Zero Waste (EZW) identified this conundrum, and based their business model around it.

The brands platform was founded on the hopes if solving hiccups that can come from living a more sustainable lifestyle, such as the inconvenience of making personal care products or shopping, packaging-free.

Inspired by the milkman model (products delivered-as-needed to door), EZW has

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Similarly, personal care brand, Wild offers refillable deodorants through a subscription service, where consumers are sent deliveries of their chosen natural scents and refill their deodorant container. They identified that less than 50% of products used in the bathroom are recycled compared to 90% in the kitchen (Symes-Thompson, 2020). In Wild’s mission statement, they say: “We are sustainable. Forget waste. Our reusable deodorant applicator is made from durable aluminium and recycled plastic, to ensure it stands the test of time. Meanwhile our natural deodorant is completely compostable, making it the world’s first zero-plastic deodorant refill.” (Wild, 2020).

As another new start-up business, it is hard to conclude as of yet what environmental impact the brand has presently had, however it can clearly be concluded that this is a key innovation for the sector, and a steppingstone to more circularity within the industry.

Secondly, these products are not familiar to consumers yet, or embedded in their subconscious, unlike supermarket shampoos and deodorants. Therefore, more needs to be done to cross barriers of convenience and value.

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3.4

MAIIRO SKINCARE CASE STUDY In order to gain an insight into how a sustainable skincare brand operates and analyse their packaging solutions, an interview was conducted with Research and Development Manager of Maiiro Skincare, Peter van der Schagt. Derived from the traditional Guernésiais word for ‘sea’, Maiiro, offer a range of products that are all sourced naturally; harnessed by the power of seaweed to help skin look and feel better. As well as the product line itself, the brand also pride itself on delivering sustainable packaging to their consumers. Their marketing campaign Pack of Lies not only denotes their own innovation but outs other brands in the industry for green washing. Outlined in table 3 are the key responses from the interview (see Appendix 3).

Table 3

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Table 3

This case study reaffirms that firstly, education and consumer awareness are key driving factors for change within the sustainable packaging sector and secondly, that governmental roadmaps for change may need to be reconsidered if the plastic waste pollution continues to grow at the alarming rates it presently is. From this, it is clear that whilst Maiiro have taken positive and substantial steps towards positive circularity, they recognise that they â&#x20AC;&#x153;are under no illusion that our efforts represent only a drop in the oceanâ&#x20AC;? (Schagt, 2020).

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3.5

SUMMARY To summarise, this chapter has identified that external sectors such as food, beauty and skincare industries are starting to see emerging changes in attitudes towards packaging. Secondly, cross-sectorial coalitions could largely benefit the fashion industry in tackling its plastic packaging consumption. Sabina Rachimaro suggested that â&#x20AC;&#x153;collaboration is keyâ&#x20AC;? (Rachimaro, 2020) and went on to outline her brands outsourcing collaboration for sustainable packaging. This poses future responsibility on fashion to form these collations as a whole industry.

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PACKAGING INNOVATION IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY This chapter explores ways in which the fashion industry has started to innovate, adopting a streamline approach towards sustainable packaging and identifies opportunities for fashion brands to achieve circularity through such practices.

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4.1

THE FASHION PACT Firstly, fashion brands have started to consider active ways of reducing their plastic consumption by uniting together to find sustainable solutions. The Fashion Pact is a “global coalition of companies in the fashion and textile industry (ready-to-wear, sport, lifestyle and luxury) including their suppliers and distributors” (The Fashion Pact, 2020), who are all committed in achieving three core environmental goals: - Stopping global warming - Restoring biodiversity - Protecting the oceans

Additionally, in the Reuse-Rethinking Packaging Report from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, it was identified that “converting 20% of plastic packaging into reuse models is a $10 million business opportunity that benefits customers and represents a crucial element in the quest to eliminate plastic waste and pollution” (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017). This demonstrates that monetary barriers should not deter brands from adopting reuse models within the businesses, as it would provide both financial and environmental benefits, however it could be that time and development is needed.

For customers, it was revealed in a survey that 71% said they wanted more transparent and detailed information on packaging (Chief Packaging Officer, 2018). This further illustrates a drive from consumers and brands should push a response from the fashion industry as a whole.

Table 4 shows some of the 200 plus brands that have consolidated to for the Fashion Pact and are openly tacking environmental responsibility.

Whilst this offers a direct response, and steady progression towards more responsible attitudes for plastic within the fashion industry, much more, by way of innovation is needed to take action now.

Table 4

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4.2

ECO GARMENT BAGS In an interview with industry expert and CEO of Eco Garment Bags, Rebecca Pickard, she listed various factors that industries do not consider, as well as implications of sustainable packaging solutions (see Appendix 4). Firstly, after working within the fashion industry for several years, Pickard noticed the vast number of polybags used in fashion supply chains, which led to the launch of her business. Eco Garment Bags are a sustainable packaging brand, that “maintain all the benefits of conventional polybags” however, through technological advancements, they degrade into “carbon dioxide, hydrogen and harmless biomass within 12 months” (Eco Garment Bags, n.d).

aspect of the supply chain, as opposed the whole circular impact.

During the interview, when asked why there is a reluctance from all fashion brands to obtain sustainable packaging solutions, Pickard identified a number of barriers that are stopping brands from doing so, suggesting that smaller brands are more open to change because: - Smaller investment - Reduced risk - More in touch with their consumer - Less people around-the-table Loic Molina, creative fashion executive of GoodPeopleWander also suggests that these key barriers are stopping larger brands from adopting sustainable packaging solutions, in the Future of Fashion Business podcast, ‘The Relationship Between Brand, Packaging and Sustainability’.

She continued to highlight the key underlining issue that is hidden to consumers. Whilst the consumer is becoming more increasingly aware of poly mailer bags (order shipment to delivery), there is a second polybag in fashion supply chains – from manufacture to distributor. She suggested that “if the brands going to invest in sustainability, the first thing that they are going to do, is do it where its actually visible to the consumer” (Pickard, 2020). This could be regarded as a form of greenwashing, as brands are focusing on one direct, consumer driven

Molina discusses that “start-up businesses are the innovators and market leaders of change” and established, larger brands “wait to learn from their successes” before adopting for their own approaches (Molina, 2020).

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Additionally, in the interview with Pickard, several sustainable packaging solutions were outlined and deconstructed to determine whether they are actually sustainable. The material that is emerging into the sector are starch-based compostable bags. Rebecca explains that, the “so-called compostable bags” dissolve in water, which reduces garment protection during transportation and thus delivers a product to the consumer that is substandard. As well as this, the majority of starch-based bags require industrial composting, as opposed to home composting that individuals are familiar with. She suggests that “even in the Western countries, we aren’t set up to handle industrial composting” and that this could, in some cases, create more environmental problems.

To conclude, when asked if she felt a form of legislation should be implemented to drive all fashion brands to use sustainable packaging, Pickard was doubtful, suggesting that “plastic is a useful material” and “what we need to do is stop is being used where it’s not actually necessary”. By contrast, Peter van der Schagt suggested that, “it may become necessary for the government or respective governments to step in to provide a roadmap for change.” This demonstrates that some industry experts have split conceptions about what is needed as a key driving force to back whole industry change.

Table 5

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FASHIONING FUTURE INNOVATIONS Whilst recognising reservations around compostable packaging, it is important to highlight how it is impacting the environment as an emerging solution.

Australian business Hero Pack who specialises in “earth-saving, compostable, zero-waste packaging products” (Hero Pack, n.d) have made positive steps to circularity since launching. To date, they have saved over 3,000,000 plastic mailers from entering the planet and show environmental considerations throughout their entire business model.

using PVOH (Polyvinylacohol) is used to ensure that the packaging is:

Table 6

Niamh O’Laoighre, Product Development Manager at Finisterre, suggests that the brand is “founded on three commitments: product, environment and people” (O’Laoighre, 2019). It is hoped that from this commitment to eradicate single-use plastics within their supply chain, they will for fill these three considerations to create circularity as a business and truly, leave no trace.

Similarly, Finisterre, a B Corps outdoor brand founded in Cornwall, partnered with AquaPack on a mission to eliminate all single-use and non-degradable plastics within their packaging (Finisterre, n.d). After a year of development, the bags, branded as ‘Leave No Trace’ where launched in October 2019. Formulated polymer resin,

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AVERY DENNISON Additionally, Avery Dennison are a global company specialising in the manufacture of labels, swing tags and packaging. One of the latest innovations was the BioFlex ™ packaging, regarded as the “ultimate sustainable alternative to fossil-based PE plastics” (Dennison, 2020). They identified that the plastic packaging market is set to hit $375bn by 2020, making their solution paramount to the plastic polybag proliferation.

Table 7

The Senior Director of Sustainability, Helen Sabi suggests that: “Most poly bags are typically made from virgin petroleum polyethylene.

But you can’t get rid of poly bags without potentially ruining the garments as they’re being shipped, which is why we have innovated a sustainable alternative that have the same benefits and applications as traditional poly bags. I could hand BioFlex™ to you today and you would never know the difference” (Dennison, 2020).

During a Fashioning Futures Talk, Amy Lee, Senior Trends and Insight Manager at Avery Dennison discussed how they “support smaller brands and help them grow”. She went on to explain that Dennison then learn from these innovations and implement it into their wider business strategy. Lee regarded this as “essential for business” (Lee, 2020).

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Finally, during the talk the question upon the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hidden polybagâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; was posed to industry professionals, alongside a discussion into sustainable packaging.

Outlined in Table 8 are the key response (see Appendix 5).

Table 8

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4.5

SUMMARY In summary this chapter has discussed that innovation exists and the sector is aware of these emerging changes. However, as echoed by industry professionals, economy of scale is needed for sustainable solutions in packaging to become democratised. Therefore, importance is placed on legislative driving forces such as unified agreements or taxing and education.

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CONCLUSION This study has identified a range of consumer and industry driven barriers that are affecting sustainable behaviours and offers opportunities for packaging innovation in the fashion industry.

skincare sectors. It would benefit largely from forming sectoral and cross-sectoral coalitions to innovate and adopt a new approach to for the democratisation of sustainable packaging. By implementing refill and reuse mechanisms, and adapting to sustainable material process, the fashion industry could head create positive changes for circularity within its individual business models, and thus as a whole industry.

Firstly, it was determined that plastic, since its invention, has become increasingly important for use in virtually every industry.

Yet as a cause of this, the environment and surrounding seas are having a devastating impact, affecting the loss of biodiversity, the poisoning of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s atmosphere, and increased micro plastics into the human food chain.

Additionally, chapter two assessed barriers around plastic recycling practices, factors effecting sustainable behaviours and how Covid-19 has shifted industry and consumer consciousness. It can be argued that sustainability remains a focus for consumers, industry and brands, despite the turbulence caused by COVID-19, however, more needs to be done to have beneficial impacts.

This is also apparent through the opinions expressed by participants in the focus group.

Therefore, a streamline approach is needed across recycling platforms, globally and within different local councils in the UK. Alongside this, brands need to communicate with their consumers to create more circular systems for product packaging, and post-consumer disposal.

Finally, in order to eradicate the plastic polybag proliferation within the fashion industry, microtrends in sustainable approaches are manifesting and growing through sectoral discussion. Education throughout the whole supply chain is paramount, as well as the continuation of research, testing and in reducing global economy of scale. Through communication, this will then result in the democratisation of sustainable packaging.

Whilst recognising the uncertainty that COVID-19 has left both industry, brands and consumers; as the economy looks to rebuild, it should head for a more a circular offering.

From various research resources, the message is clear. Consumers are doing what they can. Industry is starting to innovate. An alternative to plastic packaging exists. But a higher driving force needs to be implemented to make a change and push forward, through legislations.

Moreover, chapter three defined that the fashion industry needs to be more forth coming to new innovations demonstrated in external industries such as food, beauty and

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WHAT IS HOLDING HER SEEMS TO BE ECYCLING IS THE TIP ND ONE DAY WE ARE NTO THAT ICEBERG.”

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RECOMMENDATIONS

Industry Material Innovation In order to secure a sustainable future for the fashion industry, all brands should collate to innovate a new material, or adopt ideas from innovators, and implement eco polybags into all areas of the supply chain. If all brands unite this will reduce the financial impact.

Brand Communication Communicating to the consumer is paramount, so legislated or governed marketing campaigns in collaboration with the fashion industry should be considered. Communicate across multi platforms, as well as traditional branding on packaging.

Consumer Responsibility The willingness of individuals should be addressed through education of environmental impacts of plastics. This should be backed by government or global united nations, to create seamless message across the world.

Global Legislation A key driving force identified in this study is that legislation needs to be implemented to push all brands to be more sustainable in their approaches towards packaging. Taxing polybags used in the fashion industry could be the accelerant needed.

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FUTURE STUDIES

Whilst this study offered an integral insight into the issues within the plastic packaging sector of the fashion industry, there were limitations to the research.

Firstly, the focus group conducted was with UK household individuals only, limiting the breadth of the research on a global scale. So, whilst the responses gained are valuable to this study, a global investigative focus group would largely benefit the credibility of this study. A future study for consumer behaviour analysis could be for individuals to record their recycling behaviour over a month timespan and present this as a case study. Due to time constraints, this was unable to form part of this study.

Secondly, during the writing of this study, national lockdown restrictions prohibited face-to-face interactions with participants, and interviewees.

This could be revisited post-pandemic in order to add to the credibility of this study. In the meantime, opening conversations online with industry professionals and experts has proved to be invaluable, and such should continue to further investigate a deeper understanding.

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PLASTIC DIARY

diary to keep track of personal plastic consumption during your everyday life and evaluate just how much plastic you really use!

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EVERYDAY SUSTAINABLE BRANDS list of brands that have been accumulated during the process of writing this study.

Birdsong | colourful wardrobe staples Chillys | reusable water bottle brand Ecover | plant-based washing up liquid and cleaning products Finisterre | Cornish surfwear/outdoorwear brand Guppy Friend | laundry bag for synthetic apparel Lucy & Yak | sustainable fashion brand OceanSaver | cleaning drops Pangaia | wardrobe essentials brand Project Pico | eco-friendly underwear brand Smol Products | for laundry and dishwash The Zero Waster | guide to UK shops selling bulk unpackaged goods Who Gives A Crap | toilet paper WILD | deodorants

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THE PLASTIC-BERG PROBLEM | ANNOTATED REFERENCES

ANNOTATED REFERENCES A Attenborough: A Life On Our Planet. (2020). [film] Directed by J. Hughes, K. Scholey, A. Fothergill and J. Hughes. Netflix.

A Netflix documentary film projected as Attenborough’s witness statement of what he has seen in is lifetime. Resurfaces issues previously outlined in Blue Planet II but requires people to take action now. Provides excellent background context to purpose of this study.

B Baram, (2020). Fashion & Sustainability : Inc Impact Of COVID 19 - UK - September 2020. [online] Reports.mintel.com. Available at: <https:// reports.mintel.com/display/1042161/?fromSearch=%3Ffreetext%3Deco%2520friendly%2520packaging> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Mintel research analyst investigation into the impacts of COVID 19 on fashion and sustainability, including consumer insights, values and behaviours. Good source for overall understanding but limited as only from a UK perspective.

Barrows, S., (2020). Trends And Enterprise Event. [online] Web.microsoftstream.com. Available at: <https://web.microsoftstream.com/video/ bc95d24f-af06-4bf3-b050-237d40e5e6fb> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

Online conference call with three industry professionals on trends and insights for sustainability in the industry. Referenced here is Samantha’s talk.

BBC, (2018). Why Plastic Recycling Is So Confusing. [online] BBC News. Available at: <https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-45496884> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Newspaper article for BBC outlining why consumers find recycling confusing at home. Includes data from ComRes Poll – surveys direct to households/homeowners. Limited as only from a UK perspective.

Berger, R., (2020). Sustainable Packaging - A New Approach. [online] Content.rolandberger.com. Available at: <https://content.rolandberger.com/hubfs/Roland-Berger_Packaging-Sustainability-Study. pdf?utm_campaign=20-0142_CEI_NP_Packagingsustainability&utm_ medium=email&_hsmi=96754960&_hsenc=p2ANqtz_CpJzecb1ZsQB4rr4LAmytc8HhjOT5khYYj1Tn4g8EA4rXskyG0r7_9Yayi8__ gvR8Nf7MqMEmkmibozgKTWXyXwZaE95LSDE2xuBnq16bw_ 114

kNUk&utm_content=96754960&utm_source=hs_automation> [Accessed 20 October 2020].

Global report on sustainability, recycling and waste management across the world. Very comprehensive and contains graphs and figures paramount to this study.

Berners-Lee, M., (2019). There Is No Plan(Et) B. Cambridge: The Cambridge University Press.

Book discussing all environmental issues effecting climate change, including plastic consumption across the world. Includes quotes and cross-references used throughout this study.

Biological Diversity, (2020). Ocean Plastics Pollution. [online] Biologicaldiversity.org. Available at: <https://www.biologicaldiversity.org/campaigns/ocean_plastics/> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Outlines key facts / figures of plastic in the ocean- most up-to-date figures are published on this site. Worldwide figures included, reducing its limitations. Stats were shocking and are highlighted as important context knowledge for this study.

Bow, (2019). ‘Blue Planet Effect’ Gives Boost To Sustainable Investment. [online] Evening Standard. Available at: <https://www.standard. co.uk/business/blue-planet-effect-gives-boost-to-sustainable-investment-a4006751.html> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

New article outlining the effect David Attenborough’s Blue Planet has had on consumers attitudes and behaviours in reference to plastic pollution and sustainability.

Bowcott, O., (2020). International Lawyers Draft Plan To Criminalise Ecosystem Destruction. [online] The Guardian. Available at: <https://www.theguardian.com/law/2020/nov/30/international-lawyers-draft-plan-to-criminalise-ecosystem-destruction> [Accessed 1 December 2020].

Modern article outlining the proposed plan to criminalise the destruction of the ecosystem. Reliable source reporting on legal draft action.

Bravo, L., (2020). How To Break Up With Fast Fashion. 1st ed. London: HEADLINE PUBLISHING GROUP. Modern publication discussing the issues within the fashion industry regarding sustainability and the ignorance to the environment resources due to over consumption. Book is written with a satirical tone which 115

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ANNOTATED REFERENCES could reduce its credibility, however made for a more enjoyable read.

Brown, H., (2018). February - NUI Galway. [online] Nuigalway.ie. Available at: <http://www.nuigalway.ie/about-us/news-and-events/news-archive/2018/february/study-finds-73-of-deep-water-fish-ingested-microplastics-from-the-northwest-atlantic-ocean-.html?utm_source=dlvr. it&utm_medium=twitter> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Study of marine life with plastic inside their stomachs. Data could be limited due to small sample size, limited location, and bias as conducted by a university.

Butler, K., Philpott, T., Philpott, T., Philpott, T., Holden, E., Vicens, A., Friedman, D. and Levy, P., (2017). The Truth About Meal-Kit Freezer Packs. [online] Mother Jones. Available at: <https://www.motherjones. com/environment/2017/06/meal-kit-freezer-packs-blue-apron-hellofresh/> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Online article investigating blue apron meal kits and the icepack plastic consumption. Stats and data were taken from this article and used for this study.

C Carrington, M.J (2015) The ldeology of the Ethical Consumption Gap. pdf] Sage Publications. Available at: https:/llwww.gla.ac.uk/media/media_451526 _en.pdf [Accessed 22 January 2019].

Publication discussing the Ethical Purchasing Gap, a phenomenon that is a barrier to sustainable living. This is key in defining consumer behaviours.

Chief Packaging Officer, (2018). 6 Packaging Reports From 2018 That Reveal What Consumers Want. [online] Chief Packaging Officer. Available at: <https://www.chiefpackagingofficer.com/2018-11-19-6-packaging-reports-from-2018-that-reveal-what-consumers-want/> [Accessed 15 November 2020].

Study outlining what consumers want from their packaging. US based report, so could have limitations.

Clement, J., (2020). U.S. Youtube Usage Increase Due To Coronavirus 2020 | Statista. [online] Statista. Available at: <https://www.statista.com/ statistics/1106313/youtube-usage-increase-due-to-coronavirus-homeusa/> [Accessed 22 October 2020].

Data around the increase in YouTube views due to COVID19. Reliable 116

source as data is present to this study, so therefore is more relevant.

Commoner, B., (1971). The Closing Circle: Nature, Man, And Technology. 1st ed. p.Four Laws of Ecology.

Academic theory around circularity and sustaining positive ecology in everyday life. This is linked in the study to circularity in industry supply chains.

D DEFRA, (2018). Plastic Bag Sales In â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Big Sevenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Supermarkets Down 86% Since 5P Charge. [online] GOV.UK. Available at: <https://www. gov.uk/government/news/plastic-bag-sales-in-big-seven-supermarketsdown-86-since-5p-charge> [Accessed 16 October 2020].

Impacts of the 5p plastic bag charge on UK supermarkets. Source may be biased as directly from the UK government so; therefore, data could be published in a positive representation only.

Deloitte, (2019). Future Of Food | How Technology And Global Trends Are Transforming The Food Industry | Uber Eats. [online] Www2. deloitte.com. Available at: <https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/ Deloitte/au/Documents/Economics/deloitte-au-economics-future-fooduber-eats-100719.pdf> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

Study on Uber Eats, discussing how global and technological advancements are affecting the industry. Contains data and charts that are used in this study.

Dennison, A., (2020). Made To Reduce 20 | Avery Dennison. [online] Rbis.averydennison.com. Available at: <https://rbis.averydennison. com/en/home/about-us/rbis-global-events/copenhagen-fashion-summit-2019/made-for-cyclability.html> [Accessed 20 October 2020].

Avery Dennsion webpage outlining the problem within the fashion industry with plastic mailing bags. Stats and quotes are used from this.

Data contains no cross reference so unclear where figures are from.

Doughty, S., (2020). Takeaway Food Companies Use More Than A Billion Plastics Every Year. [online] Mail Online. Available at: <https:// www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-7985069/Takeaway-food-companiesuse-BILLION-plastic-trays-lids-bags-year.html> [Accessed 14 October 2020].

Insight into plastic consumption of food takeaway companies. Figures and statistics have been sued from this source. May be bias as pub117

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ANNOTATED REFERENCES lished by UK newspaper, Daily Mail.

E

Eco Garment Bags, (n.d.) Eco Garment Bags | Sustainable Fashion Packaging. [online] Eco Garment Bags. Available at: <https://ecogarmentbags.com> [Accessed 16 November 2020].

Eco business tackling the fashion polybag problem. Reference is for the home webpage of the brand, disusing their brand strategy.

Ellen MacArthur Foundation, (2017). Reuse - Rethinking Plastics. [online] Newplasticseconomy.org. Available at: <https://www.newplasticseconomy.org/assets/doc/Reuse.pdf> [Accessed 12 November 2020].

Report outlining the rethinking of plastics, and how they can be reused to maximise their use before end of lifecycle. Source is reliable as published from a credible research brand, widely used within industry.

EMF, (2017). The New Plastics Economy: Rethinking The Future Of Plastics & Catalysing Action. [online] Ellenmacarthurfoundation.org.

Available at: <https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications/ the-new-plastics-economy-rethinking-the-future-of-plastics-catalysing-action> [Accessed 14 October 2020].

Report outlining the future of plastics, and how they can be rethought, or innovated to secure of more sustainable future. Source is reliable as published from a credible research brand, widely used within industry.

Environment Massachusetts, (n.d.) Top Ten Facts About Plastic Bags In Our Oceans. [online] Environmentmassachusetts.org. Available at: <https://environmentmassachusetts.org/sites/environment/files/reports/ Bag%20Ban%20Fact%20Sheet%20_0.pdf> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

Data used from this source to demonstrate the lifetime and cycle of plastic bags.

EZW, (2020). Shop Sustainable Zero Waste Products - Get Refills In Your Postbox. [online] Zero Waste Era. Available at: <https://erazerowaste.com> [Accessed 12 November 2020].

Webpage of sustainable personal care brand. Direct and paraphrased quotes used in main body of study. May be biased as data could be used for consumer marketing purposes.

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F Finisterre, (n.d.) Finisterre X Aquapak. [online] Finisterre. Available at: <https://finisterre.com/blogs/broadcast/finisterre-x-aquapak> [Accessed 16 November 2020].

Webpage of sustainable outdoor wear brand. Outlines their mission statement and collaboration with plastic solutions brand. May be biased as data could be used for consumer marketing purposes.

G Geyer et al., (2017). Mean Product Lifetime Of Plastic Uses. [online] Our World in Data. Available at: <https://ourworldindata.org/grapher/ mean-product-lifetime-plastic?time=2015> [Accessed 6 November 2020].

Data / chart used from this in this study. Demonstrates the product lifetime of different plastics. Study may be limited as does not account for every type of plastic. This led to questioning why plastics are used for little time, when they can last for 1000 years plus - critical analysis.

H Hall, A., (2020). Majority Of People In Britain Are Unclear About What Items Can Be Recycled, Poll Claims. [online] The Independent. Available at: <https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/home-news/recycleitems-plastic-bottle-coffee-cup-crisp-packet-a9490631.html> [Accessed 12 November 2020].

Newspaper article discussing consumer understanding of recycling in the household for plastics. Study is limited as it only accounts for British individuals, not global considerations.

Hawkins, A., (2020). Uber Continues To Hemorrhage Cash During The Pandemic Despite Growth In Delivery. [online] The Verge. Available at: <https://www.theverge.com/2020/8/6/21357745/uber-q2-2020-earningsride-eats-loss-coronavirus> [Accessed 14 October 2020].

Study present to research findings on Uber Eats earnings (including loss and growth) during COVID19. References of this used throughout Uber Eats case study.

Hero Pack, (n.d.) Compostable Mailers - Sustainable Packaging | Hero Packaging. [online] Hero Packaging. Available at: <https://heropackaging.com.au> [Accessed 16 November 2020].

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ANNOTATED REFERENCES Compostable mailing bag business in Australia. Webpage outlines business strategy and mission statements for their overall sustainable outlook. May be biased as data could be used for consumer marketing purposes.

Hintons, (2018). History Of Recycling [Timeline] | Who & When Invented Recycling?. [online] Hintonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Waste. Available at: <https://www. hintonswaste.co.uk/news/history-of-recycling-timeline/> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

Webpage documenting the timeline of plasticâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s invention. Source may be bias and limited as it contains no cross references. Historical data, therefore unclear on credibility.

Holder, S., (2020). Coronavirus: Disposable Face Masks Creating New Plastic Pollution Crisis, Experts Warn. [online] Sky News. Available at: <https://news.sky.com/story/coronavirus-disposable-face-masks-creating-new-plastic-pollution-crisis-experts-warn-12045350> [Accessed 15 October 2020].

Sky news article discussing the impact of COVID 19, surgical masks on the environment, regarding it as a new plastic pollution crisis. Accounts for global data.

House of Commons (2017). Department for Environment Food & Rural Waste [pdf] - Food Waste in England. Available at: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/statisticalnotice 15 12 2015 update fl.pdf [Accessed 22 January 2019].

Report on food consumption and the plastic packaging waste disposable in the UK household. Source may be biased as directly from the UK government so; therefore, data could be published in a positive representation only.

I Investor Uber, (2020). Uber Announces Results For First Quarter 2020. [online] Investor.uber.com. Available at: <https://investor.uber.com/ news-events/news/press-release-details/2020/Uber-Announces-Results-for-First-Quarter-2020/> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Report on the results of Uber in the first quarter of 2020. Documents sales, growth, decline etc of the business. This is a press release version of the data, so therefore could be tailored to be more positive in data presentation.

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J Jahsan, E., (2020). Online Retail Sales Continues To Boom Despite Lockdown. [online] Retail Gazette. Available at: <https://www.retailgazette.co.uk/blog/2020/07/online-retail-sales-continues-to-boom-despitelockdown-exit/> [Accessed 1 November 2020].

Retail article on the increase in online retail sales in lockdown. Stats and figures are used within this study. Proved to be a valuable source, with present information.

Jambeck et al, (2015). Plastic Waste Generation Per Person. [online] Our World in Data. Available at: <https://ourworldindata.org/grapher/ plastic-waste-per-capita> [Accessed 6 November 2020].

Map of plastic waste generated per person. References is used as a figure, but also quoted within text. More credible as uses global figures (not just UK).

K Katz, C., (2019). Piling Up: How China’S Ban On Importing Waste Has Stalled Global Recycling. [online] Yale E360. Available at: <https://e360. yale.edu/features/piling-up-how-chinas-ban-on-importing-waste-hasstalled-global-recycling> [Accessed 12 November 2020].

Yale research paper on China’s plastic imports and the effect on the rest of the world. Valuable source with mainly reliable data as a well-established research study.

L Lebreton, B. Slat, F. Ferrari, B. Sainte-Rose, J. Aitken, R. Marthouse, S. Hajbane, S. Cunsolo, A. Schwarz, A. Levivier, K. Noble, P. Debeljak, H. Maral, R. Schoeneich-Argent, R. Brambini & J. Reisser. (2018): ‘Evidence that the Great Pacific Garbage Patch is rapidly accumulating plastic’, Scientific Reports – Nature, 8, Article No 4666 Article providing insight into the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. Multiple authors to further credibility. Contains direct quotes and data used in this study.

Lee, A., (2020). Trends And Enterprise Event. [online] Web.microsoftstream.com. Available at: <https://web.microsoftstream.com/video/ bc95d24f-af06-4bf3-b050-237d40e5e6fb> [Accessed 25 November 2020].

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ANNOTATED REFERENCES Online conference call with three industry professionals on trends and insights for sustainability in the industry. Referenced here is Amy Lee’s talk.

Luo, J., (2020). Jiaqi Luo, Author At Jing Daily. [online] Jing Daily. Available at: <https://jingdaily.com/author/jiaqiluo/> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

Digital publication for Chinese Essayist, Luo on the impacts of COVID 19. Direct quote used in this study. Limited as could only account for Chinese perspective.

M Markets, R., (2019). Worldwide Recycled Plastics Markets To 2024: Focus On PET, HDPE, PP, LDPE, And Others. [online] Prnewswire.com.

Available at: <https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/worldwiderecycled-plastics-markets-to-2024-focus-on-pet-hdpe-pp-ldpe-and-others-300882537.html> [Accessed 6 November 2020].

Online publication demonstrating the recycled plastic market. Source accounts for worldwide consumption so therefore furthers its credibility.

Maslow, A.H.; Frager, R.; Fadiman, J.; McReynolds, C.; Cox, R. Motivation and Personality (Vol. 2); Harper & Row: New York, NY, USA, (1970).

Academic theory of Maslow’s hierarchy of needs and metamotivation.

Used in text for critical analysis and to define consumer behaviours.

Felt that this aided in making critical evaluation and analysis of consumer behaviour.

Mintel Reports (2018) Online Retailing’s Packaging Problem – UK October 2018. - [ONLINE] Available at: http:/academic.mintel.com/display/921932/ehighlight. [Accessed 22 January 2019].

Mintel Report on the online retail packaging problem. Key survey data, and brand insights are used in this study from this source. Limited due to being UK published, and also in 2018, as this study was written in 2020.

Molina, L., (2020). The Relationship Between Brand, Packaging & Sustainability. [podcast] The Future of Fashion Business. Available at: <https://open.spotify.com/episode/4ul2UyyaNctzWDjpqcgWcI?si=6rM_ FnNpR3qCHxx6NLk62A> [Accessed 14 October 2020].

Spotify podcast with industry professional, Loic Molina, discussing the relationship between branding, packaging and sustainability. Highly 122

useful source as shows direct insight to industry. Limited credibility in that opinions shared are that of Molinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only.

Mouret, (2019). Roland Mouret Launches #Switchtoblue Hanger Campaign. [online] Roland Mouret. Available at: <https://eu.rolandmouret. com/blogs/gallery/roland-mouret-launches-switchtoblue-hanger-campaign> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Web page to Switch To Blue hanger campaign by Mouret. Valuable source for highlighting the plastic hanger problem. May be biased as data could be used for consumer marketing purposes.

N Nelson, (2017). Is Technology Making Us Lazy?. [online] Medium. Available at: <https://medium.com/digital-society/is-technology-making-us-lazy-ec3a3e58140a> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Article outlining society is becoming lazier due to digitalisation. Discusses consumer behaviour. May be outdated and slightly bias. Direct quote used in this study.

P Physical Science Basis, (2013). Climate Change 2013. [online] Ipcc. ch. Available at: <https://www.ipcc.ch/site/assets/uploads/2018/03/ WG1AR5_SummaryVolume_FINAL.pdf> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Digital article on climate change from the science basis. Credible source but dated (2013). Data used in this study, along with present predications.

Plastics Make It Possible, (2015). The History Of Recycling Plastic. [online] Plastics Make It Possible. Available at: <https://www.plasticsmakeitpossible.com/about-plastics/history-of-plastics/the-history-of-recycling-plastic/> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

Webpage indicating the timeline of plastics recycling (historical reference for context). Useful insight into the history of plastics recycling.

Less credible as uses cross-references that are not cited.

R Rachimaro, S., (2020). Trends And Enterprise Event. [online] Web. microsoftstream.com. Available at: <https://web.microsoftstream.com/ video/bc95d24f-af06-4bf3-b050-237d40e5e6fb> [Accessed 25 Novem123

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ANNOTATED REFERENCES ber 2020].

Online conference call with three industry professionals on trends and insights for sustainability in the industry. Referenced here is Sabinnaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s talk.

Recoup, (2020). RECOUP Recycling. [online] Recoup.org. Available at: <https://www.recoup.org/news/7895/uk-household-plastics-collection-survey-2019> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Recoup report on recycling in the household. Data used for survey from consumers within household and their attitudes towards recycling.

Royte, (2019). Eat Your Food, And The Package Too. [online] Nationalgeographic.com. Available at: <https://www.nationalgeographic.com/ environment/future-of-food/food-packaging-plastics-recycle-solutions/> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Insight from National Geographic on the packaging problem within the food industry. Used in this study for background context and information to support arguments.

S Saner, (2018). The Haul Video Trend Promotes The Worst Parts Of Fast-Fashion. [online] I-d. Available at: <https://i-d.vice.com/en_uk/article/xwm39w/heres-why-haul-videos-need-to-change> [Accessed 18 November 2020]. iD magazine article on the fast fashion hauling culture, fuelled by YouTube. Modern source, but could be bias due to age target consumer of the magazine and author.

Science History Institute, (2020). History And Future Of Plastics. [online] Science History Institute. Available at: <https://www.sciencehistory. org/the-history-and-future-of-plastics> [Accessed 19 October 2020].

Webpage indicating the timeline of plastics invention (historical reference for context). Useful insight into the history of plastics. Less credible as uses cross-references that are not cited. Dates may not have been recorded as they historically appear.

Shahbendeh, M., (2020). Skin Care Industry: Global Skincare Market Size 2012-2025 | Statista. [online] Statista. Available at: <https://www. statista.com/statistics/254612/global-skin-care-market-size/> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

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Data used to demonstrate the size of the global skincare market. Present data that includes future predictions. Credible source that is used by data analysists.

SIEGLE, L., (2018). TURNING THE TIDE ON PLASTIC. 1st ed. London: TRAPEZE. Book that was read whilst writing this study. Contains extremely useful sub context references that have been used throughout this study. This book also draws an overall picture on the plastic pollution problem. Particularly enjoyed the writing style of this book also.

Steenis, N.D.; van Herpen, E.; van der Lans, I.A.; Ligthart, T.N.; van Trijp, H.C.M. Consumer response to packaging design: The role of packaging materials and graphics in sustainability perceptions and product evaluations. J. Clean. Prod. (2017), 162, 286–298.

Study on consumer attitudes towards sustainable packaging, and the product perceptions of it. Source contains multiple authors increasing its credibility (multiple interpretations).

Sun Basket, (2020). About Sun Basket’S Recyclable And Compostable Packaging. [online] Sun Basket. Available at: <https://sunbasket.com/ recycle/> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

Webpage of Sun Basket’s home page including information on the compostable packaging they use. Useful intertext source, highlighting external industry analysis for this study. May be biased as data could be used for consumer marketing purposes.

Surfers Against Sewage (2020). Plastic Pollution - Facts And Figures • Surfers Against Sewage. [online] Surfers Against Sewage. Available at: <https://www.sas.org.uk/our-work/plastic-pollution/plastic-pollution-facts-figures/> [Accessed 14 October 2020].

Facts and figures on the plastic waste pollution problem effecting the ocean. Contains cross-reference data that is not sub referenced, therefore questions credibility.

Symes-Thompson, H., (2020). Our Sustainable Packaging. [online] Wild UK. Available at: <https://www.wearewild.com/blogs/news/our-sustainable-deodorant> [Accessed 12 November 2020].

Webpage on Wild sustainable packaging used for products. Useful intertext source, highlighting external industry analysis for this study.

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ANNOTATED REFERENCES Technomic, (2018). Three Ideas About The Future Of Meal Kits. [online] Technomic. Available at: <https://www.technomic.com/newsroom/threeideas-about-future-meal-kits> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Innovative insight into the future of meal kits. Offers suggestions of innovation in this sector. Source may not be as credible due to being outdated at the time of this study.

Tesco, (2020). Tesco In Partnership With Loop. [online] Tesco. Available at: <https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/zone/loop> [Accessed 12 November 2020].

Direct webpage reference to Loop initiative with Tesco on reducing plastic in supply chain for instore and online delivery services. Source used for direct quotes in this study.

The Fashion Pact, (2020). The Fashion Pact - The Fashion Pact. [online] The Fashion Pact. Available at: <https://thefashionpact. org/?lang=en> [Accessed 14 November 2020].

Webpage on the Fashion Pact, including brands that have signed up to be part of it. Used in study for in-text citations, and as a figure reference. May be biased as data could be used for consumer marketing purposes.

The Ocean Cleanup, (n.d.) The Great Pacific Garbage Patch | The Ocean Cleanup. [online] The Ocean Cleanup. Available at: <https:// theoceancleanup.com/great-pacific-garbage-patch/> [Accessed 18 November 2020].

Information on the Great Pacific Garbage Patch. Data and stats used from this webpage is quoted in-text. Figures from this source are also used in this study.

Topic, M. and Mitchell, B., (2019). GENERATION Z & CONSUMER TRENDS IN ENVIRONMENTAL PACKAGING. [online] Eprints. leedsbeckett.ac.uk. Available at: <http://eprints.leedsbeckett.ac.uk/id/ eprint/6066/1/GenerationZAndConsumerTrendsInEnvironmentalPackagingPV-TOPIC.pdf> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

Study outlining consumer trends towards environmental packaging.

Suggests that Genz are the front-runners of this. Reliable source with duo authors. Published in the UK so may be limited in interpretations.

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UberEats, (2020). Sustainability | Enviropack, In Partnership With Uber Eats | Enviropack, In Partnership With Ubereats. [online] Ubereats. enviropack.org.uk. Available at: <https://ubereats.enviropack.org.uk/ sustainability/> [Accessed 14 October 2020].

Direct webpage link to Uber Eats. Source contains references in-text and a figure reference for this study. May be biased as data could be used for consumer marketing purposes.

UK GOVERNMENT, (2018). The Future Of The Sea. [online] Assets. publishing.service.gov.uk. Available at: <https://assets.publishing. service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/ file/706956/foresight-future-of-the-sea-report.pdf> [Accessed 6 November 2020].

Report on plastic packaging waste effecting the seas in the UK. Source may be biased as directly from the UK government so; therefore, data could be published in a positive representation only.

W Waitrose, (2019). Waitrose & Partners Food And Drink Report 2018-19. [online] Waitrose.pressarea.com. Available at: <https://waitrose.pressarea.com/pressrelease/details/78/NEWS_13/10259#> [Accessed 14 October 2020].

Food and Drink report from Waitrose, outlining the consumer effect from Blue Planet and what they, as a business saw from the change. May be biased as data could be used for consumer marketing purposes.

Waste Free Oceans, (2020). [online] Wastefreeoceans.org. Available at: <https://www.wastefreeoceans.org/post/plastic-masks-take-450-yearsto-decompose-in-nature> [Accessed 15 October 2020].

Insight into how long plastic masks take to dispose. Used in-text to further support the COVID 19 impacts on sustainability and plastic waste consumption. Reliable source.

WGSN, (2020). White Paper: The Value Shift. [online] Createtomorrowwgsn.com. Available at: <https://createtomorrowwgsn.com/2110643-wpthe-value-shift/> [Accessed 19 October 2020].

Written by industry professionals, furthering credibility. Modern source on the various factors that COVID 19 has affected in society. Discusses the idea of quarantine entertainment. Used as a valuable source to this study.

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ANNOTATED REFERENCES White, K., (2020). The Elusive Green Consumer. [online] Harvard Business Review. Available at: <https://hbr.org/2019/07/the-elusive-green-consumer> [Accessed 11 November 2020].

Wild, 2020. Mission. [online] Wild UK. Available at: <https://www.wearewild.com/pages/our-mission> [Accessed 12 November 2020].

Harvard Business Review paper on the Elusive consumer. Offers and insight into consumer behaviour towards sustainable solutions. Reliable source, with credible publisher.

Willersdorf, S. and Mitchell, R., (2020). Op-Ed | What Consumers Really Think About Sustainability. [online] The Business of Fashion.

Available at: <https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/sustainability-consumer-spending-environment-social-impact-allbirds-patagonia-covid-19> [Accessed 16 October 2020].

Report on consumer spending and the environmental impacts of sustainability. Reliable source, with credible publisher.

Williams, O., (2020). Boomers Versus Millennials: Which Generation Is More Environmental?. [online] Forbes. Available at: <https://www. forbes.com/sites/oliverwilliams1/2020/02/17/boomers-versus-millennials-which-generation-is-more-environmental/?sh=4130164e5718> [Accessed 20 November 2020].

Forbes report enclosing a study on which generation are more sustainable and eco aware. Contains cross references from research analysts and study. Reliable source, with credible publisher.

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WRAP, (2019). Plastics Market Situation Report 2019 | WRAP UK. [online] Wrap.org.uk. Available at: <https://www.wrap.org.uk/plastics-market-situation-report-2019> [Accessed 14 October 2020].

Modern report for contextual references. Contains data used for comparative purpose in this study. Also used to further arguments made in this paper.

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<https://wwfeu.awsassets.panda.org/downloads/plastic_ingestion_web_ spreads_1.pdf> [Accessed 19 October 2020].

Webpage article discussing the plastics entering human food chain and what percentage of that humans consume. Reliable source, as published from an established organisation. However, could be biased in order to make people act.

Academic Writing / Tools Carson, D., Gilmore, A., Perry, C. and Gronhaug, K. (2001) Qualitative Marketing Research. London: Sage.

Collins, H. (2019) Creative Research: The Theory and Practice of Research for the Creative Industries. 2nd edn. London: Bloomsbury.

Dawson, C. (2009) Introduction to Research: A Practical Guide for Anyone Undertaking a Research Project. 4th edn. Oxford: How to Books.

Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Leary, Z. (2017) The Essential Guide to Doing Your Research Project.

Los Angeles, CA: Sage.

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6 Fubiz Media, n.d. Plastic Bag Landscapes. [online] Fubiz Media. Available at: <http://www.fubiz.net/2014/04/07/plastic-bag-landscapes/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

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8 ANIMA ANIMUS, n.d. 400+ THERE’s NO PLANET B. Ideas In 2020 | Anima And Animus, Ethical Fashion, Sustainability. [online] Pinterest.

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9 TRENDLAND, n.d. Steve Gallagher Still Life Photography. [online] TRENDLAND | Online Trend News. Available at: <https://trendland. com/steve-gallagher-still-life-photography/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

10 Vogue Italia, 2016. Micamera • Michael Wolf &Amp; Peperoni Books. [online] Vogue Italia. Available at: <https://www.vogue.it/fotografia/ news/2016/06/24/micamera-mostra-fotografica-michael-wolf-peperoni-books> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

11 Fubiz Media, 2018. Denunciation Of Our Society By Octavian Serra. [online] Fubiz Media. Available at: <http://www.fubiz.net/2018/08/06/ denunciation-of-our-society-by-octavian-serra/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

12 verde., F. and García, S., n.d. Hacia Una Cósmetica Con Huella Medioambiental Cero | Belleza, Lo Último | S Moda EL PAÍS. [online] S Moda EL PAÍS. Available at: <https://smoda.elpais.com/belleza/ hacia-una-cosmetica-con-huella-medioambiental-cero/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

13 BrightSide, n.d. 18 Powerful Examples Of Social Advertising That Fight For A Better Future. [online] BrightSide — Inspiration. Creativity. Wonder. Available at: <https://brightside.me/creativity-design/20-new-examples-of-social-advertising-that-fight-for-a-better-future-476210/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

14 Reference unavailable.

15 Carlock, E., 2020. Color Palette: Minty Green | Erika Carlock | Bohemian Lifestyle Blog. [online] Erika Carlock | Bohemian Lifestyle Blog.

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IMAGE REFERENCES 16 Metal Magazine, n.d. Recondition | Metal Magazine. [online] Metalmagazine.eu. Available at: <https://metalmagazine.eu/en/post/editorial/recondition-stella-morais> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

17 Enke, A. and Enke, A., 2020. Alexander Neumann Captures Marina Testino In Vogue Mexico — Anne Of Carversville. [online] Anne of Carversville. Available at: <https://anneofcarversville.com/fashion/2020/4/4/ alexander-neumann-captures-marina-testino-in-vogue-mexico> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

18 SIEGLE, L., 2018. TURNING THE TIDE ON PLASTIC. 1st ed. London: TRAPEZE. PG 70-71 19 Zimbio, n.d. Otto Kern - Zimbio. [online] Zimbio. Available at: <https:// www.zimbio.com/Otto+Kern/articles/zdJrdW9Yi6t/Creative+Photography+Geof+Kern> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

20 bundenko, n.d. Bundenko. [online] bundenko. Available at: <https://bundenko.com> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

21 Wade, S., 2019. Marta Armengol’S Experimental Art Explores The Relationship Between Material And Space - IGNANT. [online] IGNANT. Available at: <https://www.ignant.com/2019/05/07/marta-armengols-experimental-art-explores-the-relationship-between-material-and-space/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

22 Itsnicethat, 2017. Aleia And Alex: A Surreally Stylish Pair Of Photographers. [online] Itsnicethat.com. Available at: <https://www.itsnicethat. com/articles/aleia-and-alex-photography-080917> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

23 British Vogue, 2020. How To Clean Your Face Mask — And Protect Your Skin — For Optimal Safety This Summer. [online] British Vogue.

Available at: <https://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/article/how-to-cleanyour-face-mask> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

24 Webb, J., 2016. [online] Design You Trust. Available at: <https:// 132

designyoutrust.com/2016/06/artist-joe-webb-creates-cynical-and-shocking-collages-that-tell-the-uncomfortable-truth-about-our-modern-world/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

25 Perry, R., 2012. Receipts, Email, Bread Tags, Styrofoam : Rachel Perry Welty Transforms Lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Daily Clutter Into Art - Gwarlingo. [online] Gwarlingo. Available at: <https://www.gwarlingo.com/2012/rachel-perry-welty-transforms-clutter-into-art/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

26 Fucking Young!, 2020. Beyond The Curtain - Fucking Young!. [online] Fucking Young!. Available at: <http://fuckingyoung.es/beyond-the-curtain/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

27 designboom, 2019. Photographer Hal Vacuum-Seals Families Together With Their Homes. [online] designboom | architecture & design magazine. Available at: <https://www.designboom.com/art/photographer-hal-vacuum-seals-families-homes-08-30-2019/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

28 Weekend Creative, n.d. INSPIRATION 43 / ADRIENNE RAQUEL â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Weekend Creative. [online] Weekend Creative. Available at: <https:// www.weekend-creative.com/thoughts/inspiration43> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

29 TRENDLAND, 2020. Microplastic Series Shines A Light On The Consequences Of Single-Use Plastics. [online] TRENDLAND | Online Trend News. Available at: <https://trendland.com/microplastic-series-shines-alight-on-the-single-use-plastics-consequences/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

30 UberEats, 2020. Wholesale Suppliers Of Disposable Food Containers, Takeaway & Ecofriendly Packaging | Enviropack, In Partnership With Ubereats. [online] Ubereats.enviropack.org.uk. Available at: <https:// ubereats.enviropack.org.uk> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

31 Pop Sugar, n.d. Ubereats Takeaway. [online] Available at: <https://www. popsugar.co.uk/gdpr?utm_medium=redirect&utm_campaign=US:GB&utm_source=www.pinterest.co.uk&gdpr> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

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IMAGE REFERENCES 32 Reference unavailable.

33 Era Zero Waste, 2020. Era Zero Waste. [online] Instagram. Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/p/CHc22k_HrKO/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

34 Maiiro, 2020. Maiiro. [online] Maiiro. Available at: <https://maiiro.com> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

35 Maiiro, 2020. Maiiro. [online] Maiiro. Available at: <https://maiiro.com> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

36 Twitter, n.d. Twitter. [online] Twitter.com. Available at: <https://twitter. com/noveliciouss/status/1094867134721740801> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

37 Burberry, n.d. Plastic And Packaging. [online] burberry Corporate Website. Available at: <https://www.burberryplc.com/content/burberry/corporate/en/responsibility/focus-areas/company/plastic_and_packaging. html> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

38 Styer, W., n.d. Accessories â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Will Styer Photography. [online] Will Styer Photography. Available at: <http://willstyer.com/accessories> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

39 Eco Garment Bags, n.d. Eco Garment Bags. [online] Instagram. Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/eco_garmentbags/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

40 Eco Garment Bags, n.d. Eco Garment Bags. [online] Instagram. Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/eco_garmentbags/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

41 Finisterre, 2019. Finisterre X Aquapak. [online] Finisterre. Available at: <https://finisterre.com/blogs/broadcast/finisterre-x-aquapak> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

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42 Arnault, L., n.d. Fashion Blockchain - Critical To The Future Of Fashion | WTVOX. [online] Wtvox.com. Available at: <https://wtvox.com/digital/ fashion-blockchain-critical-to-the-future-of-fashion-smart-clothes/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

43 Itsnicethat, 2017. Aleia And Alex: A Surreally Stylish Pair Of Photographers. [online] Itsnicethat.com. Available at: <https://www.itsnicethat. com/articles/aleia-and-alex-photography-080917> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

44 Baina, n.d. Baina. [online] Instagram. Available at: <https://www.instagram.com/shop_baina/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

45 Williamson, C., n.d. Masquespacio Creates An Interactive Concept Store For RUBIO. [online] Design Milk. Available at: <https:// design-milk.com/masquespacio-creates-an-interactive-concept-store-for-rubio/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

46 Livingly, 2010. Balenciaga At Paris Fashion Week Fall 2010. [online] Livingly. Available at: <https://www.livingly.com/runway/Paris+Fashion+Week+Fall+2010/Balenciaga/Details/alSLYYDkLde> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

47 designboom, n.d. Thirza Schaap â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Plastic Oceanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Series Turns Trash Into Sculptural Still-Lifes. [online] designboom | architecture & design magazine. Available at: <https://www.designboom.com/art/thirzaschaap-plastic-ocean-10-29-2017/> [Accessed 4 December 2020].

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APPENDICES Appendix 1 Initial Survey 12/10/20 | Instagram 250 respondents

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APPENDICES Appendix 2 Focus Group 16/11/20 | Microsoft Teams 9 participants Transcript • 0:00 - 0:53 So thank you all for joining the focus group. All of your thoughts and opinions are really valued even if you wanna say something that you don’t think relevant or significant it definitely is. I’m not really going to be asking questions as such, they’re more kind of open-ended statements that I kind of want you guys to discuss between yourselves and elaborate on trying to answer as honestly as possible. So the first thing is how do you find recycling at home and your household? How do you find that and again we are all from different areas in the UK different local authorities for recycling should be quite interesting to get your thoughts on that.

• 1:00 - 1:59 Sandwell recycling is in my opinion is very good. We don’t have to separate a recycling we can recycle major majority of things so glass plastic cardboard.

They have the lots and we actually get a collection every week. I do wash like tubs and milk plastic cartons to do obviously everything that I can use.

Sandwell to be fair a quite good, I think compared to a lot of other authority.

I don’t think Birmingham there is good as Sandwell by the sounds of it like we get collections every two weeks, and they take a reasonably wide range of all the usual things tin cans paper plastics, but I suppose the big problem is well.

• 2:00 - 2:59 Do you have to put it into little retires cycling turbo taken away? I’m not convinced that a lot of it’s actually recycled in Dudley recycling we have to separate it ourselves, so we have three tubs: we have glass we have cardboard and we have the plastics but the plastics are very very limited. I constantly throw away in the main rubbish yoghurt pots tetra packs because none of those are allowed in Dudley recycling.

As somebody who’s worked with some waste management companies and because I do try and in the training rooms but I’ve got different information on what can and can’t be recycled and….

• 2:59 - 3:59 welcome to the bad it’s very very confusing because like you say different areas will accept different things and that’s not just confusing for the consumer, but I think it’s also confused now if you sort of on holiday as well as to what you can and can’t recycle.

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In Shropshire they are quite good. We get fortnightly collection long with a green bin. You have to separate your cardboard and paper go together and then your plastic glass and stuff like that to that the other area so again. I agree with what happens to it afterwards on the group with Alison and we’re in Shropshire and it’s once a fortnight.

What was interesting when we moved here the only criticism, I would have is that the box that they gave us to collected in was actually nowhere near...

• 3:59 - 4:59 the amount that we collect in a fortnight, so we then, I substitute it with boxes. It was twice as big and to be fair, they just take it you know but that would be my only criticism just the recycling.

I think it’s the average option on in the green bin. You can’t put food waste between a cabbage leaf and a tree leaf in terms of and how many you know we used to live in Germany 99.9 percent all household rubbish get collected and recycled so personally I feel coming back to UK was like a step back into the Dark Ages actually I think sound what is the best cos my mum lives in.

• 4:59 - 5:59 The better service the ones represented here but I never use. You know 5 out of 10 but you know and I’ll be leaving Wales every authority collect the same and so you know if you move house in Wales it’s the same but you know why can’t UK adopt the same policy and agree authority?

What you just said while I’ve noticed since doing all the recycling there I have very very little now that goes in the black bin because alot you assign with your recycling for the plastics is a big enough we’ve got two or three boxes that we normally put out but they’re my black bin which is our general waste but there’s hardly nothing it for them to bother to collect really because the so little most.

• 5:59 - 6:59 The plastic waste milk cartons and things like that and also relation to what you saying abroad, I think it was Germany we were in where I think you should have go to the supermarket taking back and they’ll give you a deposit also a bit like that used to years ago, but you sort of recycling the machine so again encourages people as a courage meant 250 because it’s their bottles as well.

Ok, that’s really great. Thank you guys. Just a bit more towards plastic recycling. That’s what I’m focusing on most. What are the key barriers for consumers? They don’t necessarily understand what the types of plastics are, through the symbol that are on products and then also bit of recyclability so can…

• 6:59 - 7:59 you guys can discuss you personally understand them if you find it confusing or maybe some ideas as to what you could do to make that better?

Plastics containers - yoghurts pots. We have loads of yoghurt pots. I do keep some of them to recycle for plant pots.

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APPENDICES I think the biggest problem with recycling is all the various films that you get meat and vegetables which can’t be recycled but just crossing over to the fashion world...

• 7:59 - 8:55 think that probably will be relevant because I imagine that a lot of the packaging which clothes are transported in and then displayed in and if you are buying online and send it back.

It comes down to patience and wisdom. Courses at school on various types of plastic and very very little can be recycled easily your milk bottle tops milk bottles say the cartons you get grapes in things like that can be recycled easily, but the rest of it. Just goes to landfill. So very few people realise how little can be recycled.

• 8:59 - 9:59 I did see on Facebook somebody recycled crisp packets to make a blankets for the homeless that you would like to do the Olympics the big races and people in these foil blankets weather could be used to do that. We perhaps this is so tinkering around with touched on that it needs to have a uniform policy throughout the UK touched on how needs to be legal directives Germany is much better than here and we all.

• 9:59 - 10:59 We need to make more people aware of what plastics can be recycled and which ones no can’t we just go to landfill and that goes back to education going to school, in teaching such life is down the bottom there.

We don’t realise, aren’t we missing the point should? Shouldn’t it be that we shouldn’t have the plastic first place and then really they should be alternative means of providing us with without having a plastic then that takes away the need for the education takes away the need for.

• 10:59 - 11:59 what we do we need it takes away the needs for all to be shipped to be at now because that program that was on the telly that shows you the mountain plastic. Why it was absolutely atrocious! We shouldn’t have it in the first place.

Sorry it comes back to the three arches you know reduce reuse recycle and add repair to that as well. People just expect far too much. There’s too much consumption of these things it’s so easy to throw away. You know why you can’t recycle yoghurt and butter tubs know most of green bag which is the bottles the plastics the milk bottles the pop bottles.

• 11:59 - 12:59 Check this up where does stuff go when it leaves our house and that just get recycled so specific the recycling plant that they can’t accommodate anything other than that. I don’t know but I’m sure that just recycle Dudley freecycle 140

others I can only assume that the other parts you know what you can definitely on there as far as I can and yoghurt pot cos if it’s got income for instance. That’s not easy.

• 12:59 - 13:59 We get Rachel’s organic, and they’ve got a a paper sort of sleeve on it which you can tear off and then they got plain white plastic which can be cycled if it’s transparent that can be recycle it all comes down to labels and ink and also for somewhere along the line someone said no it’s too difficult, we won’t bother you. No generic thing. That’s what it is either get to the stage of being lazy and you just took poorly plastic in there and leave it for somebody else to sort out or you just put it all in your normal waste and you know just using nothing just answer that question just thank you the nail on the head early.

We should be trying to reduce the amount of packaging and use recycling almost as a last resort…

• 13:59 - 14:59 If you have to use the packaging but and I suppose I don’t know too much about the fashion world really Jess, but I think they’re all sorts of initiatives.

I know when I was at work and I can still just about remember that, the wrap initiative the waste and Resources action programme to reduce waste in the construction industry, which was very well, but they’re all really sort of initiatives advise, and you need something with a little bit more controlled. I think perhaps the manufacturers point to their overall carbon footprint to get when I was at work. We used to do some assessment. It was the building research establishment…

• 14:59 - 15:59 I didn’t think my memory was that good but there you go and that calculated the entire impact of a construction project from design construction when the building was in use what happened to when he had to be demolished in you end up with an overall carbon footprint, but the entire lifecycle. I don’t know whether the fashion industry or where the manufacturers could do this and you’d get an overall picture then of what the government or a process actually had what sort of impacted hard and really, I imagine the packaging would form a big part of that and if they could reduce that it’s got to help me even if it’s only sort of paper packaging rather than plastic packaging. That’s more probably easily and widely recycled. There’s anything like that exist.

• 15:59 - 16:59 Yeah, I can’t really you know put forward my opinion but so I can’t have it really influence in your guys’, but yeah in answer there is. It is I think what’s needed is like you kind of previously mentioned a push from power. For example, the bag charge now on 5p charge comes into my mind. Why can’t we don’t have a legislation on plastic package goods retailers?

To slightly move the conversation on a little bit to get the masks from British designers and every piece of the packaging is recyclable. There’s nothing all use plastic and on the back...

• 16:59 - 17:59 it tells you all it’s eco credentials, so clearly every bit but I took is eco-friendly and it says no single use plastic cartons compostable organic cotton is used which uses less water non-toxic inks used in the printing so that it can go is 141

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APPENDICES not 90% female workforce and it’s vegan certified and then it tells you. You know everything about the eco credentials. Tell me a mask and the packaging is totally eco-friendly search for the toll for the house price.

Yeah, really good. Thank you for the great example. So just kind of looking now more at the environmental impacts. You know we all see the…

• 17:59 - 18:54 Videos, David Attenborough documentary Blue Planet. But how does that affect to you do you care? Does it affect your daily life? Or are you bothered by it? Just kind of sharing your opinions around that would be great Yes, it is the lorries going down the road from us into the Biffa site shouldn’t be going we should be recycling way way more than we do. This is more most of the 300 really just keeping stuff for longer and I think we probably.

• 18:59 - 19:53 I think it’s the fashion industry’s, fault as well to some extent, because you have every season you have a new you know this catwalk show. They need to do it obviously to gain income and obviously contribute to the economy, but they foster in people’s minds particularly possibly the younger generation.

The need to have this new garment that you pair of shoes because you’re not in fashion and then that’s also compounded by social media people not you know you only get like if you’ve got these pair of trainers on or whatever so I think it’s sort of in endemic. That is all of those platforms.

• 19:59 - 20:51 Yeah, so the industry for three four maybe five years has seen progress towards slow fashion through like sustainable materials for the actual garment to be made and and things like that. With the fashion industry as a whole you don’t just kind of get four seasons now. There’s like between 6 and 10 depending on the designer. Slow fashion brands are really kind of drawing it back and going to back to four and sometimes even two so that that is a movement that is up-and-coming but still you know what’s question yet, but however being packaged and sent and that’s kind of what I’m investigating with this study.

• 20:59 - 21:58 I think the biggest wake up call for me because having lived in Germany for 22 years used to the whole thing and it was part of Cyprus recycling is clearly not in their vocabulary up down the motorway the amount of plastic rubbish on the side of the road and put the bins out. Yes, there was a recycling the normal bin and nose and it all went in the same lorry come round and it was just collected and there was no recycling plant on the God knows where it went well and that was a wake-up call to me.

• 21:59 - 22:59 I think we’ve been doing a lot more walking in local area when you go to these nature reserves and Conservation areas and the just absolutely littered with plastic bags and plastic waste not so much paper. I suppose that 142

decomposes over time but you know, you come across a bush area has got a plastic bag and you just think well, you know how much of the animal in as well and that links black bag then to you see Blue Planet when you can really see what the effects on wildlife is for what they consume yeah.

Yeah, I suppose that the present situation tomorrow internet shopping. I think like you James we don’t...

• 22:59 - 23:58 Buy off the internet, we go out and get things when you need them, but I think probably more and more people have been using internet shopping because of the circumstances and that itself is bound to generate more packaging even they’re going to the supermarket we buy more food because we’re not eating out and that’s going into a domestic waste.

I don’t do I have to do through the shielding so I’ve got so many plastic bags like a liner...

• 23:59 - 24:59 But its individual bags normally, I end up with like loads and loads because they can’t touch it. Tesco you know the carrier thing to you. You’ve got to take it out. They won’t take it out yeah.

Yeah, Tesco is one of the British supermarkets innovating in the sector and they’ve partnered with a company called Loop like really reduce their single use plastics both in-store and online delivery is coming on what you said obviously at the moment for kind of hygiene concerns. It’s got to be used in someone sent so that’s why you had that…

• 24:59 - 25:59 plastic film put in the tray and and you know you’ve got we’ve got to use it but out of all of the supermarkets what you could regard as one of the most sustainable for well going forward and interesting that you said that Just catching up from that has another Tesco girl. I would not have believed that if you want to said that would not have believed it for the amount of stuff that I get plastics from Tesco so but maybe this is a future think they have moved into my shopping delivery.

Yes, Tesco are putting forward that they doing this but as a consumer you aren’t actually seeing that so it’s the mission statements what actually physically being done and relating back to the industry. That’s definitely something I found so far in research.

• 25:59 - 26:58 When Tesco deliver to me I have to have now bags, so recycle their stuff with the box on the doorstep and then I transfer out of there into my reusable bags, but like you say during the pandemic when it was it was like that the number of bags on. I’ve got is absolutely incredible and I’m not sure what to do with them and they’re not even good quality bags that you can do much else with they are very very you know they probably are the recycling bag type things were very very thin and rubbish bags. So they will just go in the bin.

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APPENDICES to the local charity shop because I know they do use them, but least they’re getting reused reused good idea.

• 26:59 - 27:54 What would you do with them as well? What about compostable packaging much headway be made with that I know that there are problems with it, but it can be made to work of them?

So on Thursday I had a industry interview with a lady who set up a business based on working in the fashion industry. We discussed how many of these poly bags are being used and during our conversation I posed the same question I said will you know why aren’t compostable bags ok? She said there’s two main issues one: most are starch based which means that if they get wet…

• 27:59 - 28:57 they are ruined and a lot of them require industrial composting and you know she was saying in the Western world as much as we’re advanced technologies, we don’t have the capabilities or resources and suggested that these companies are greenwashing so really interesting discussion, but she recognise it’s a step in the right direction, but kind of yeah compostable packaging is the hotword in the industry at the moment, but not necessarily the solution.

• 28:59 - 29:58 What do you use an allotment we tend to use as food waste it goes on the best thing to do it because going back to Birmingham again? I don’t do food waste collections because I think they’re just dealing with the pandemic.

What I’m going to do now as long as it’s ok with that one video you may have seen it. It’s from an advert the kind of advert itself is irrelevant. I just want you to watch it and kind of take it more as a concept.

• 29:59 - 30:59 And then after it’s finished something like 1minutes. I just would like to feel or flats change your opinion towards plastic consumption and the effects on the ocean or the environment this going to share my screen can everybody see my screen. Ok? Can you just tell me that you can hear the audio cos that’s important?

• 30:59 - 31:34 *ESTRELLA VIDEO ADVERT PLAYED HERE* • 31:59 - 32:54 Call just sharing a screen ok, so obviously the fact that it was in Estrella beer advert is irrelevant sustainability and kind of their personal standpoint but when I personally saw that I found it really impactful. It is quite conceptual so yeah, if you just want to discuss that made you feel or is that changed your current perceptions or anything then that would be great…

• 32:59 - 33:57 144

Having this conversation I think, I don’t know if it would necessarily hit the mark that it should, certainly not as much as things like watching blue planet does that’s the way I would have a look at that. I don’t think many people would necessarily take the emphasis that you expect it to but yeah, I think I probably it does follow-on almost Blue Planet a human perspective does the water and what does nothing sort of knew that we haven’t seen 100 times before Attenborough and the rest of the programmes that’s on TV or books.

It’s just a slightly different angle on it in that I agree with me and I think that would be me but again nothing new.

• 33:58 - 34:58 Is I enough to do something about it? I’m not sure I understand it, but do we do anything about it.

I agree with Alison that on its own. It doesn’t have the impact that you wouldn’t you wouldn’t necessarily look at it like that and everyone said that we are used to seeing you but I don’t think that would impact for people who have something to change their opinion by being yeah.

I agree. I agree with James totally because I watched it issue a human is she supposed to be microorganism is the white stuff supposed to be frosty wouldn’t want if it’s an advert then my cynicism.

• 34:59 - 35:58 If you really trying to sell beer why are you doing this with likes everyone has seen it before and I just found the whole thing confuse me quite a few time.

I just spent so long trying to decide what the message is because if it’s just a straightforward eco message why touch it to a bottle of beer totally eco company you know what is there but you watch the film and you don’t know what the rising at the end. We maybe are the wrong target market. It may be that the youngsters who would understand it. That’s what I would add as a proviso.

• 35:59 - 36:58 Yeah, as a younger kind of consumer watching that and maybe because I’m studying all about plastics I was more aware of it and straight away, I got the message. I knew that was plastic floating around in the water for me. I have just wrote down, we don’t see the effects on the ocean first hand. Yeah, we see it on the TV daily. I guess from a marketing perspective. I think what they’re trying to do.. they’re is selling a message about sustainability not their products and I think they really pulling on that eco aware consumer and trying to get you to buy into the eco-ness and that the beer is secondary. You know what the beer taste like, you know how it looks you don’t need to see that just as a like.

• 36:59 - 37:58 I understand everyone’s opinion but as a younger consumer, maybe I don’t know.

People realise you know the bleach coral etc the plastic in the ocean everyone knows but what do you actually do about it as practical question and assume that accompanies just trying to get a larger younger target market so I’m a bit silly, but I think a lot of young people would buy it for that purpose superficial isn’t it? Is that you know exactly what that companies doing to 145

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APPENDICES save the planet what what goods just the advert would doing are they?

• 37:59 - 38:58 You know financing research or plastic in the oceans or something? What are they doing? Why are they using it as a concept quite like the way that it kind of played on that more is a visual but then I I was thinking does everyone always everyone seeing what I’m seeing or just a nice sort of thing to summarise at the end instead of another question just something visual to watch but in terms of what they are themselves. I’ve got no idea. I was sure it was plastic in the ocean and not just the fluff on the beer from the woman rising round in the best sales go up as a result of it would be an interesting and possibly.

• 38:59 - 39:58 All their might be you know that that is younger, but no because it would be hard to kind of see there any reports out a little bit of years ago. Sorry a little bit of years ago when health and safety of safety terms used to go out for you to buy cars on the speed. You know your XR3i that have plastic ago and never dies of people go to buy cars. It’s like I need pack resistance and the safety features and stuff like that. So maybe ultimately liability will become the new fashion.

Yeah, just kind of before we finish... if anyone has got any closing thoughts or opinions for the future of fashion textile for packaging etc.

• 38:59 - 39:58 Could do just from like a consumer perspective what you would like to see if you’re there, that’d be great and then we can we can finish smaller boxes. What do what do we do with coat hangers up? That’s just a question in your thesis in your introduction you mentioned we haven’t really touched on that so far. I have come across of the opinion that because of the pandemic because of lockdown is like the society’s breaking into to two sections those who just apply to Amazon wanted quick she etc etc and this package associated with that. You’ve only got to look at this and see how many billions he’s made in the lockdown.

• 39:59 - 40:58 Buddhism other side people are now working from home now starting to question some of their values are starting to question whether they need some of these things and that might be interested in your dissertation because people was have to start evaluating whether they need all these things were they need plastic and such like and then what you need to do is be as in Germany have law enforcement or enticements like fines etc. That’s what that’s the way it has to go, but it’s very much split. That’s what I think that relates to a lot of the sustainability of actually that took the brakes off.

• 40:59 - 41:58 Does the financial investment to do it has actually been diverted elsewhere and obligation at those funds that were originally earmarks for sustainability 146

perhaps some of the organisations in the current climate is a person who always went shopping in you take you around 2 then having to be a towel online shopping is an assessor t know you do put aside you know I’ve never shops like I have on Amazon but I’ve got no I’ve got no with the choice to think about it, but unfortunately override recycle my cardboard.

• 41:59 - 42:58 Because you say sometimes when you get something from Amazon you think oh my god. They should have gone through the letterbox and it’s in like the you know massive box so all I can do is an individual recycle because I’m using it as a necessity. You’re feeling guilty where are little should be Amazon that feeling guilty of using etc. So it’s not being recycled as you say it’s they’re not feeling that little bit guilty about trying to do something that your little bit can do you can only do what you can do you think you could do a little bit more then you know it would help I think that I think they’re going back to what you’re saying as well before about to have reusing stuff.

• 42:59 - 43:58 Recycling stuff in the charity shops house of massive upsurge in charity shops but again at the moment people can’t go into charity. Well, obviously closed at the moment. You know so the avenues for people are also closed so I have to rely on like you say Amazon and people like that because that’s the only way that you can get something if you if you actually need it. I think it is putting on the back. Do you actually need that whatever it is at the moment or is there?

I think Jess, my final point is the same as my starting one. The UK is behind the curve of recycling and until the government take some initiative and you know flight is it on the England the council will not or will charge you.

• 43:59 - 44:58 The council take that money all the green waste was turned into compost that you could buy back from the council taxi cost neutral but it came from it was legislated for and people have a better idea of Citizenship and how moral obligation to be a good citizen and to follow the rules where here does anybody care about anything anymore.

• 44:59 - 45:58 You know I mean arrange most days about living back in again. It seems to be the fabric and what helps hold society together seems to be crumbling and I think recycling fashion tip of the iceberg and one day we’re going to collide into the iceberg time.

Yeah, it’s interesting that you use an iceberg analogy the title of my dissertation. Yes really interesting conversation. Thank you again for taking the time to do it really appreciate it.

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Appendix 3 Interview with Peter van der Schagt Research & Development | Maiiro Skincare 08/11/2020 | Email Correspondence 1) Please outline a brief introduction into Maiiro Skincare, your job role and career history.

Maiiro was the brainchild of my wife, Katy, who probably about 4 years ago, found that her skin was starting to react badly to some of her favourite long-term brands (quite expensive ones I can tell you . . .). Having looked into some of the commonly used ingredients, we concluded that quite a few ingredients were only included to ensure long shelf-life or fragrance - some were found to actually cause skin irritation and inflammation!

Anyway, after having prolonged flare-ups of acne and irritated skin, Katy decided that she would try some home remedies, which she could remember from when she was a little kid.

Kate’s gran used to take her and her brother to the beach to collect seaweed - her gran would boil it, grind it up and mix it with olive oil to make a potent, completely natural potion. Her gran’s skin, when I met her, in her eighties was clear and with very few wrinkles.

When Kate tried her own homemade formulations, her skin improved visibly and very quickly - we soon realised that the restorative qualities of certain seaweeds were so incredibly potent that it would be worth pursuing further. With this knowledge, we approached a professional skincare formulator and spent the best part of a year trying to come up with a blend that would lift our product above anything that was on the market at that time.

Katy remains the driving force behind everything we do as a company, from marketing, sourcing ingredients and looking after the finances, to pursuing things like organic accreditation for our hand harvesting process. Her background is accounting, having worked for a number of international companies over the past 30 years or so. My own role is geared towards supporting Katy where I can, whether it is making tea, writing blogs, researching potential new ingredients, acting as sounding board or general risk manager - reigning in some of KT’s wilder ideas. My background is finance, over the past 25 plus years, I have worked as portfolio manager, fund manager and more recently, as risk manager for a Swiss private bank. Given that Maiiro is still in the start-up phase and allowing for slower progress during Covid, I continue to work full-time for the Bank for the time being.

2) Where / how did you see a gap in the market for sustainable skincare products?

What do you feel is your USP as a brand?

You know, Maiiro started almost by accident, with Katy stumbling across some very powerful ingredients that really worked, without any artificial additions. However, when we did more research, we found that although there were plenty of companies using natural ingredients, very few actually went the whole way, with no artificial ingredients. What we found was plenty of ‘Greenwashing’, with quite a few brands appearing to do the absolute minimum only, but happily riding the green, clean beauty wave. After the initial surprise, we were both convinced there had to be a better way to think about skin-care.

To be clear, we were certainly not the first to go green and sustainable, but what we did decide from the word go was that we would be transparent about our ambitions, our ethos and most importantly, how we would look to achieve our goals. Hiding behind what was acceptable within the industry at the time and greenwashing our products was simply not 148

an option. In essence, our USP is our promise to be the best, the most transparent in the industry. As a result, all our ingredients are sourced responsibly and natural and organic where possible. Great efforts were made to ensure that throughout the process of sourcing ingredients, often in international markets, we would know the underlying source where possible. This was exceptionally difficult, as some of the seaweeds we use are almost impossible to source in organic form - hence the almost two year lead for testing and final production We very much looked at the process as our baby - we certainly never felt we were bound by any previous industry conventions. As such, we were free to work to our own ethical standards and set our own benchmark.

3) Did you find there was already a solid consumer group to aim your products towards? If so, how have you found consumers receive the sustainability element of the brand?

If you do any research yourself, you will find that the global skincare market is massive, with equally impressive year on year growth rates. Our experience is that whilst sustainability is becoming a greater driver over time, mainstream brands that provide token efforts are still very much driving global sales. What is encouraging is that when we visit industry seminars now (admittedly it has been a bit difficult during Covid), there are senior representatives of the major brands, eager to check on consumer sentiment and eager to demonstrate that they too are serious about reducing the industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impact on the environment.

In all honesty, when it comes to consumers, the sustainability aspect of our project, whilst a consideration, is probably still an evolving criterium. There have always been eco-aware consumers who, mindful of their impact on the planet, were always eager to sacrifice quality for sustainability. These are not our customers. We are looking at those consumers that are used to top quality, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want compromise on that quality, but yet want to be part of a more mindful society. This is the market segment we are aiming for - offering top quality luxurious products, whilst still looking after our environment. So, in answer to your question, yes, there is a solid consumer group that is looking beyond traditional brands, a group of consumers actively considering not only the quality and brand, but also the impact of their choice on the environment.

4) How important do you feel communicating the sustainable packaging of your products is to your consumer, and why?

Everything we do is tied into our approach to life - leave only footprints, take only memories. I feel that the emphasis for the cosmetics industry and indeed the wider consumer goods industry must be on awareness. If we do not set the right example, how are consumers ever going to realise that what they do has an impact. Education, a horrible term if you ask me, has to involve exposing the true cost of goods - from loss leaders to production in low-wage countries, the true cost of our consumer behaviour goes beyond the mere components.

Education about the full impact of plastic, the impact of the chemicals used in producing skincare products, which are harmful in themselves. Harmful to the skin, harmful as residual chemical compounds. Just look at the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fascination with sun-creams - forget climate change, trust me, pollution will kill the Great Barrier Reef before anything else . . .

As a start-up company, we do our best - the question is, is it enough? No, of course it is not - but - and this is a legitimate but - we are doing what we can within the financial constraints of what we can achieve at this point.

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5) What do you feel the key barriers are that are stopping all major retailers from adopting sustainable packaging solutions as a streamlined approach within their businesses?

Money, money and money.

Business is driven by shareholder returns. Unfortunately, until such time as sustainability becomes a greater contributor to sales and bottom line, it is not going to happen. This is why the education and consumer awareness, as highlighted above, are so incredibly important.

What is incredibly frustrating is the fact that just at the point where sustainability looks set to become a mainstream consideration, we are on the cusp of the recession of our lifetimes.

My great fear is that a lot of the great environmental progress of the last 20 years or so will be wasted, literally, as people will not have the luxury to choose soon. Katy tells me I am a doom monger by the way. .

6) The PACK OF LIES campaign is a key source of inspiration and research for my study.

Can you expand on the key aims of the campaign and the success you’ve had with it, both as a brand but also amongst your customers?

Living in Guernsey, we were always on the beach with the kids and dogs. It was becoming more noticeable over the years that all the waste washing up on our favourite beach was getting worse, prompting me to bring a black rubbish bag whenever I walked the beasts, often filling it up within half an hour or so. Whilst the campaign was in some ways a separate consideration, when we set out to get Maiiro on the market, we found ourselves in the wonderful position to set up our new company - working with an advertising agency that was able to help us voice our concerns in respect of plastic pollution. The key aim really was to shout and say - hey guys, let’s do something about this plastic that we find everyday.

We actually looked at our own use of plastics for some time - everyday, we buy meat, vegetables, bread, fizzy drinks, you name it - it is all wrapped in plastic! Cosmetics containers, body scrubs containing abrasive microplastics, pens, even teabags containing plastics. It was quite a sobering moment, which, at that point really opened our minds and focused our minds. When considering not only our own impact, but the impact of humanity as a whole on the planet, it was clear to us quite early that, rather than climate change, pollution was the environment’s greatest threat. In this respect (being Dutch), I was greatly impressed by Bojan Slat’s work with the Ocean Clean-up project (https://theoceancleanup. com), which has proven to be an ongoing inspiration to both on us. The Pacific garbage patch is all I would recommend to anyone doubting our impact. We also worked with Alison Teal on plastic awareness - she again is a great campaigner for the marine environment and an inspiration to us both.

In short, our aim was to raise awareness of the wider topic - however, it was not until we really started looking into the logistics of launching Maiiro as a fully-fledged cosmetics company, that we found how difficult it actually was to live up to our own standards.

Katy’s two-year journey to source the packaging for our products opened our eyes to manufacturing practices and ensuring that components and end product would be recyclable. In hindsight, it is amazing that we were so successful!

In terms of success amongst our customers, it is difficult to ascertain the true impact at this point to be honest, as the campaign is probably less of a consideration to middleclass consumers, given the current retail climate. We do however continue to see the 150

campaign used as the initial introduction to the company, through the search results, which is encouraging. In the end, the campaign was just a part of what we as a family felt was important - fitting seamlessly with Maiiroâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s values - highlighting our concerns about the environment and our marine environment in particular.

The lesson learnt of course is that we can still do better - we simply must try harder - all of us. This will certainly be reflected in new product launches and materials.

The other lesson is the realisation that if people remain detached from the effects of their actions, nothing will change, ever.

7) In your opinion, what do you think the fashion industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s responsibility towards plastic packaging (mailing bags) is? And why are they slow to act upon such issues?

The fashion industry is responsible for many things - plastic packaging is not necessarily the worst and fast fashion probably still has a greater impact at this point. My main concern, particularly during the new normal of Covid is the use of single use plastics in face masks, packaging for gloves, aprons, you name it. In addition, the exponential rise of online platforms and mail orders will have an impact we will not be able to measure for some time.

As an industry, it is responsible for recognising the overall impact on the environment and changes must be made. Sadly, industries are notoriously bad at self-regulation and in this respect, however unpopular, it may become necessary for the government or respective governments to step in to provide a roadmap for change. Without pressure on profit margins in the form of environment taxes for example, there will simply be no incentive to change in a hurry. The problem, as always, is to find a sensible way to raise awareness - I truly believe that unless consumers are voting with their feet, no change will come.

8) Please add any additional thoughts you feel may be relevant to the study.

As you will probably have gauged, we are quite passionate about making quality products and raising awareness of environmental issues.

On a personal level, we have drastically reduced our use of single-use plastics and, whilst by no means perfect, we do like to think that as a company, we talk the talk and walk the walk. However, we are under no illusion that our efforts represent only a drop in the ocean.

Indeed, with regard to the Pack of Lies campaign, the overall result in terms of numbers was probably disappointing. However, the people that did sign-up and looked at our concerns decided to act. We continue to send out our message of sustainability and, even if it turned out we only managed to convince ten people of the need to become more aware of their impact on the environment, that would be a great result.

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Appendix 4 | Eco Garment Bags Interview Interview with Rebecca Pickard CEO | Eco Garment Bags 12/11/2020 | Microsoft Teams | UK / Vietnam

Transcript • 0:00 - 0:59 Thank you again for kind of put some time aside to answer my questions. I really appreciate it and giving kind of way of the world at the moment, I’m sure as a business you are very busy, but yeah really looking forward to hearing your responses. So if I can just get you to start with introduce yourself brief career history and then a little bit about the company, Eco Garment Bags.

Okay, so I’ve been in Vietnam to start my own fashion brand a quickly realise that you can’t manufacture a broad expecting everything to turn out great especially when you’re doing no volume, because the factories don’t really care about you so I ended up…

• 0:59 - 1:59 consulting instead of going forwards or backwards, I stayed in Vietnam and Consulting company up that other small brands do their production and Vietnam so working with and because it’s working in that I see every single item being packaged into a poly bang and we’ve got a lot of these in the years and it so my own desires for one thing to be able to add some value again, but always worked in slow fashion as well because I’m anti fast fashion. So even working in industry can be found it is one of the most polluting industries producing in Vietnam but of course there’s so apart from my own really want to be able to make some sort of difference and be able to help the situation in general in fashion industry.

• 1:59 - 2:59 I had a series of clients that have been asking me to start finding solutions to the bags.

So yeah those two different factors made me start researching the different kind of bags.

A frankly quite a few months of research and trial and error, I quickly realised that actually there aren’t any suitable bags for the fashion industry apart from one which I felt quite lucky to find and which was very happy to find out what the British technology so I basically went and met. So I’m based in Vietnam, I went to match with the this technology in the UK outside Birmingham, to get more answers and feedback on and what the material could actually be used for. I suggested that the fashion industry might really interesting and technology and basically propose that we make bags for the fashion industry and fast forward. That’s what we’ve done and when I… • 2:59 - 3:59 started producing in Vietnam which means I’m able to be here on the ground and everything but the technology is actually going to be produced so the the bank for actually going to be produced in most textile garment producing countries were just right at the beginning at the moment. So we’re doing it step-by-step so at the moment. There’s production in Malaysia and Vietnam.

Great! Thanks. That is really really interesting. I did a trends forecasting module on that, but wanted to open up that pot that I kind of started to investigate and and getting a lot wider so yeah, really great. I think you kind of briefly touched on this really just said but I write down here. Where did you see a gap in the market to start sort the company? And was it kind of 152

consumer lead or was it just recognising…

• 3:59 - 4:59 Is really needed a new way of thinking and I think I kind of touched on that but if you could expand on it for me?

It was two things. I said it was one of it was me seeing a first-hand all of the plastic that is being used and wondering whether it was necessary the other side was my clients. He was asking me increasingly for more sustainable fabrics. They always be about the conditions of the factories. It’s a part of studio which is my pressure production company that’s part of the service that we offer so I think the fact that we’ve been working with smaller brands that are higher so they been able to invest more perhaps and do my research and the smaller brands. I found as well or the first one day there, in touch with their own consumers and the consumers are more and more asking for sustainability and the small brand owners really hear what the consumers.

• 4:59 - 5:55 I think I was just doing production and exactly the kind of level of a client that is pushing the sustainability that pushing the brands and that kind of surprised that directly cause a very much in touch with the actual clients and because we normally work with a little bit more premium brands to the ones that can actually afford to make that change and understand that they can make some of that back in the marketing by changing the image that their own company is giving by being more sustainable great.

I think one of the key things that I have found so far in my research is that communication is key and kind of between that barrier of the consumer and the brand. What are you guys doing in order to communicate to brand but then through the brand to the consumer?

• 5:59 - 6:59 Difficult to answer because you correctly pointed out exactly what I’m doing it should the poly bag is something that the end consumer isn’t usually a where is happening. So I’m saying is the mailer bags because we get it in the miles. Then we can see that’s what they often. Don’t realise there’s another bag. That’s use and that’s the one from manufactured warehouse so it’s really difficult it’s difficult. In better words for the brand as well because it’s the brands going to invest sustainability the first thing that they’re going to do is do it where it’s actually visible to understand. It makes sense however, there are some brands giving example Icebreaker Icebreaker do every year so they explained in each share of the business. How they stainable so for them they’ve use that as something positive, but they’re explain it back to the consumer.

• 6:59 - 7:59 Turn the down the line then where I am. It’s really the brands that needs to be using that well figuring out ways to give it a positive image message about what they doing with the production. So they said Icebreaker it is a good example and a colleague of mine actually went into one of the Icebreaker shops. I think he said it was in Tokyo and he on purpose asked the staff if you’re being so green and sustainable and they had a book on display. He said but everything comes packed in and the staff member was just somebody in the shop actually went through the process of explaining to them actually. No, it’s not packaged in plastic because we are using the special plastic just the name of the days of the features and his great surprise. He actually gave an excellent explanation of our technology so I think I love this time if the brands…

• 7:59 - 8:59 transfer the message down to the people that are faced with the consumer. That’s where they’re going to get the benefit of the extra making in using a different kind of material 153

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because of the leading on from that.

I know you briefly spoke about some of the barriers, but would you say that money is the big barrier for the larger brands? I can’t understand why it hasn’t been adopted by all?

Yeah money is the big barrier but just there’s any others that you can think off the biggest barrier is money because a solution does actually exist that what I’ve got but they have also got a problem in finding the right option so most of them come to me.

• 8:59 - 9:59 Different materials that they tried, to try different types of starch bags for example and I heard so many horror stories on the shelves or during transportation, or course if it starts if you think about it, where is in the fashion industry need to have a chance you need to be able to meet the different problems that the brands are facing the poly bag is doing a job and it’s doing it and how to reduce the amount of poly bags that are used to use some form of the materials. Have you heard of wrapping in some sort of a bit in the and what’s important to realise that the poly bag is doing a job? It’s keeping the garment clean from oil and dust and moisture and anything else. So… • 9:59 - 10:59 We found it needs to go but still do all of those functions that it’s needed to do now as far as I’ve seen that are no materials that actually do all of that and still offer a transparent material that can protect the garmnent so I’ve had meetings with some of the company’s largest national companies that you’ve mentioned and many more so it’s not that they are unaware of us because you know we can’t be everywhere at once but certainly quite a few of them are aware of the technology, but the price difference is too much so normal poly bags that say at the moment with cost a few cent at the moment our solution cost 19 Cent so it’s 16% higher. What economies of scale help with my bring it to the now. It’s a try and reduce that by 20% but either way. I think it’s something like Zara who’s may be paying I don’t know let’s say 4:05 dollars.

• 10:59 - 11:59 Play working on the very much push in the factories down and constantly now what the factory is not going to do is say I’m now going to charge you and 15% to use this different kind of material in the packaging. So it’s something that’s changing the industry because normally the manufacturers needs to happen is when the brand is telling the manufacturer which banks use the manufacturer needs to apply a disc of that cost to take that away from the cost of the bag. That’s replacing it. So that they the final cost of the actual brand, but yeah the issue is the brands are not willing to spend the extra 10 to $15 on each garment and they would need to get the moments change now if you think about it the way the calculations work in fashion industry, as I said at the moment the manufacturer is.

• 11:59 - 12:59 They giving the bag for free obviously they’re counting into that when did brand to buy another by the manufacturer is going to have to raise that by that turn off 15% whatever it’s going to be and then passed on to the brand for approval for that is going up what a fashion brand normally does that say they do you get that into x 3 or 3 and half and that’s their retail price now if we go back and we say that in that pair of instead of just noticed find the $4 by 3 to take the $4.10 because taken away to for central the conventional with added on however 14 cents for a version like mine.

• 12:59 - 13:59 Imagine a T-shirt they cost $1 to make if you’re putting it in one of my colleagues. I’ve just upped your price by 10% how to lighten that’s a little bit of that cost $1 x 3 for $3 at the moment if cost of the commercial plastic bags included in that now for make it $3 10 and x 154

3 it means it selling for 3.30, but why is the consumer paying 30% more if the brand is only paint and that means that the brand is actually making profit on the background. So that is a change that I think needs to happen in the in the way that the brands are doing so I’m sure if they said to the to the actual client will charge.

• 13:59 - 14:58 I’m sure the customer be happy with that. I think for the larger brands coming up with creative ideas for the extra cost that they need directions that they need to make themselves branding amazing.

Thank you, another factor I have explored, is legislation. As a whole what are your personal thoughts on taxations been implemented on goods that require plastics poly bags or plastic packaging of some sort and industry but as a whole well?

I think plastic is definitely useful in some circumstances the problem is that we make plastic too well, it’s too resistant, but there are some…

• 14:59 - 15:59 medicals for example we need some devices to be made out of plastic. It’s a very is a very useful material what we need to do is to stop it being used where it’s not actually necessary putting a tax on it. I don’t know how it would work but yeah at some point. Let’s see the new solutions are 4 times more expensive and plastic is realistic to expect governments to put on 100% tax will that be acceptable? Will it not mean I see at the moment in even in the past year there’s so much more about to say mobility and fighting classic fashion packs for example 250 of the largest fashion companies have committed to reducing their improving my packaging.

• 15:59 - 16:58 And obviously given you know the current climate economic climate financially, so whilst they do believe that COVID has actually put more attention on sustainability and protecting our environment it may take longer for those changes to make sure that they survive the crisis after that they might look it’s the same ability but it’s not going to come first.

Yeah. Ok, thank you. I think I got a written down you covered really just a little bit more detail on kind of the technology that you use?

Absolutely so the plastic products are so different than the other ones I said that the key parts about our technologies is transparency.

• 16:59 - 17:58 It’s really wasn’t because of the barcode seconders it cannot cause any harm. No matter how is disposed of and that’s really really the key so do you want to have a look example, Finisterre which is a British company. They’ve done a really nice job of the product brands under their own name but called that the leave no trace bag. That’s a really nice name because it really is the only one that was no problems at the end of its also as compostable most of them that can contact water the most important thing is that the material is during transportation so if it’s going to do that and and humidity is going to affect the material is not going to be able to clothing so that we use it’s been engineered to only dissolve in hot water…

• 17:59 - 18:58 70 degrees C that is a because it’s important that the material is able to take in water because of the ends of the ocean we don’t want to be there, but still do we want to be able to get rid of that material quickly as well. Imagine next somebody had a large warehouse in the receiving millions of items of clothing stores something big possible. They can actually 155

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just at the end of the huge industrial washing machine and that can go straight to the river without causing any pollution that means that we got rid of the bag immediate another when they haven’t they don’t really understand the difference between the compostable bags and sustainable most of the compostable bags that stands.

• 18:59 - 19:58 Like the hot word on the lights at the moment most of those are made out of a different kind of starch is like corn. What most people don’t realise is most of them. You can’t just put them in your garden and they disappear like the apple home composting then yes that is the case but most of the industrial composting and especially the ones that are used in people are trying to use in the fashion industry that they have to be durable. They have to protect against humidity they have to be transparent. They have to get the product to the warehouse without it being damaged but at the same time we also need to think about what what is actually going to happen to us at the end of the day normally they say that they need to be industrially composted so one version of composting is one thing it’s like an apple.

• 19:59 - 20:58 You’re gonna put it in the back garden with the rest of them and even in the Western countries not set up to handle the industrial composting to separate the rubbish to make sure that goes into just so in some cases is actually causing more problems when people are me types of compostable another issue that those compostable bags that say are you at home and the average family and you’ve got your composting bin recycling burning you got the general rubbish, then I accidentally throw it in with the rest of plastic for recycling if that bag is made out of starch however. You’ve just damaged, let’s say it from decomposing.

• 20:59 - 21:58 That was going to do that. So not only have you not saved the pollution that was going to be caused by you want on your bags, you actually destroyed all the other 100 plastics in the bin.That’s a massive problem because again there’s not awareness of the fact that they aren’t that we don’t have industrial composting in different places. There’s not the awareness that if we just suppose it’s actually causing damage so a big part of the discussions that I have to have with brands because there are more people say selling the starch bags and there are a couple of most people comes to me saying can I have a bag and I have to go through the full explanation of what do you mean by this is. With my bags if you put it in the garden is going to be put in and it’s also absolutely fine.

• 21:59 - 22:58 They can you get mixed up with the recycling we also do not have a problem and I go back to the Finisterre calling it the leave no trace back. It doesn’t matter how you get rid of in a lot of these compostable bag company, but yeah, that’s all very well, but we’re talking about improving collection of waste material therefore we are betting on the fact will get better.

We are betting on the fact that people are not going to mix our bags and we’re not going to end up in the water the reality is that 34% of all packaging does and apparently so our position is well. We want some it doesn’t matter where it ends up. We are still causing no damage circular economy right. That is what I’ve had it does so if it ends up in the ocean.

It’s also going to disappear first.

• 22:59 - 23:58 Second if a turtle eats any other it’s not because it’s a non-toxic material and the starch products bacteria and toxins will attach to it like it does to microplastics ours doesn’t it’s actually antibacterial now apart from its thinking and apart from if it’s in the ocean. It’s going to take between 12 and 50 months for it to disappear completely between 12 and 15 months because it’s completely different if it’s in the orifice unknown the Bahamas so 156

the water and water and the reason that are material has all these properties is basically because it’s it’s a what’s a plastic is a water-resistant follow the conventional plastic what we use is called a water liking.

• 23:59 - 24:58 It’s very interesting honestly really really intrigued by it, yeah any additional thoughts in forward thinking that kind of would be relevant to the study or just kind of some advice anyone that’s entering the industry upon sustainability and kind of thinking about their supply chains and packaging to be please do the research.

There is a lot of greenwashing and the lot of companies offering that are actually not a suitable replacement for the polybag at the moment. So the most, the main thing I see is a company’s getting there in stones to do the research which is not going to help because I’m not doing that.

• 24:59 - 25:58 And they come to people like me and ask questions that actually completely irrelevant.

Spend time teaching like the way I have so many time suits crazy so really having people maybe more decision-makers actually do some of the research because it’s not an easy job as said, there’s a lot of greenwashing is a lot of false claim different products on the market that that’s my biggest advice.

Amazing! It’s been really really great to chat to you and kind of investigate what the business does and yeah, thank you again for your time.

END Appendix 5 | Fashioning Futures Talk Industry Talk with Amy Lee, Sabina Rachimaro and Samantha Barrows Fashioning Futures (note: private industry talk so therefore full transcript unavailable – see link).

24/11/2020 | Microsoft Teams https://web.microsoftstream.com/video/bc95d24f-af06-4bf3-b050-237d40e5e6fb

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