E AT & D R I N K
TABLE TALK
Mezcal Madness
The Sunset Tequila Festival returns to Mizner Park this November, so we sat down with festival co-organizer David Ortiz to break down one of the hottest spirits on the market right now—and it’s not tequila Written by CHRISTIE GALEANO-DEMOTT
W
hen sipping mezcal, it might be hard to imagine its vast history. In social settings among friends, reflecting on the spirit’s traditions is seldom a priority. But the Mexican drink has a storied past complete with intriguing folklore, and David Ortiz, Rocco’s Tacos’ beverage director and mezcal master, is giving us the lowdown. First, a bit of history. Mezcal is the grandfather of tequila, initially in the form of pulque, a fermented agave drink made by Mexico’s indigenous people. When the town of Tequila became the first to mass-produce mezcal, it was called “mezcal from tequila,”later shortened to simply tequila when it was exported to the States in the late 19th century. Fast-forward several decades, and tequila has been having its moment—and now mezcal is piggybacking on tequila’s exponential boom. It’s worth noting that tequila can be called so even with only 51 percent agave sugars, but mezcal has to be 100-percent agave. Most premium producers make tequila with 100-percent Blue Weber agave, but mezcal can be made from one of the more than 200 types of agave plants, giving the spirit a variety of flavors. One of the most common agaves is espadin. Ortiz created the Sunset Tequila Festival last year, with co-organizers Joe Durkin and Vaughan Dugan, to properly introduce the community to quality tequilas and mezcals. This year, the three industry veterans are once again joining forces, hosting the second-annual festival on November 4 at Mizner Park Amphitheater, and inviting all the top tequila and mezcal producers to join them alongside several bands and local restaurants. “For someone intimidated
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by mezcal and tequila, this is a great entrance to come experience, taste, learn, love and vibe everything agave,”Ortiz says. Plus, a portion of the event’s proceeds will benefit Kula Cares, a local charity that provides educational supplies to underserved schools.
A FEW MYTHS DEBUNKED
Mezcal is a hallucinogen. Wrong. In its early days, Americans thought mezcal and the agave plant were the same as the peyote cactus and its mescaline ingredient, a hallucinogen. Mezcal doesn’t give you a hangover. Wrong. Alcohol is ethanol, so if you drink enough, you’ll get drunk and probably have a hangover, regardless of the spirit. All mezcal is smoky. Wrong. Traditionally, mezcal is made when the agave’s piña (or heart) is roasted in an earthen fire pit, covered by wood for several days, then fermented and distilled. All mezcal isn’t smoky by nature; the type of wood used in the pit (if one is even used) can give it those notes. Like wine, mezcal’s terroir also contributes to its flavors, so those notes will differ depending on which of the 10 designated mezcal states it comes from. Each region’s way of production also reflects its cuisine. Hence, a region like Oaxaca, known for its bright, flavorful mole, tends to produce a smoky mezcal that complements its dishes, while a mezcal from a higher elevation may have more floral or sweet notes. All mezcal is the same. Wrong. It can be one of three classifications depending on how it’s produced. If the bottle simply
says mezcal, that means it’s not traditionally made, and instead, it’s made with mechanical equipment in a sizeable production-for-profit setting. A step above is artisanal, produced in the traditional pit and distilled in a copper still. Lastly, there’s ancestral, which follows the indigenous ways of production in a pit, fermented in the open air with wild yeasts, and distilled in clay stills heated by fire. Mezcal is cheaper than tequila. Wrong. Some ancestral agave takes more than 10 years to grow, so you will pay a premium for those mezcals. Also, pricing will depend on its aging process, so reposado or añejo will be pricier than a joven. You have to drink mezcal with an orange slice. Wrong. The orange’s oil, when expressed, balances out the alcohol in the spirit. So, while mezcal can be served with an orange slice, it’s not necessary. For more information about the Sunset Tequila Festival and to purchase tickets, visit sunsettequilafest. com.
TIPS
FROM BEHIND THE BAR BEST WAY TO DRINK MEZCAL
Ortiz says to start with a joven artisanal mezcal on the rocks. Before your first sip, blend 1 tablespoon salt, 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 tablespoon cinnamon. Then chop an orange in half moons and sprinkle the mixture on each slice. Then sip, bite, sip. Once your palate starts enjoying the nuances of the agave, a simple mezcal on the rocks is the way to go. When purchasing your next bottle, opt for an additive/preservative-free sip like Los Amantes or Sombra. But if you want a cocktail, these are the best mezcal cocktails: smoky margarita, classic Negroni, Old Fashioned or a mule with ginger beer. BEST FOOD PAIRING
Anything with fish—ceviche, tiradito or fish tacos.
bocamag.com • • • • November/December 2023
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