Bali escape may 28 2016

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SUNDAY MAY 29 . 2016 . ESCAPE.COM.AU

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BALI LOCALS’ ADDRESS BOOK An estimated 20,000 Aussies live on this Indonesian island. Find out where they eat, drink and relax JENNY RINGLAND

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hey come with a one-way ticket, lured by the affordable luxury lifestyle, in hope of finding creative nirvana or simply soulsearching, however cliched it may be. Among the estimated 20,000 Australian expats in Bali, there are stories to tell that take all shapes.

Bali has been abuzz since its hippie heyday 35 years ago and, surprisingly considering the robust island has had its fair share of setbacks, it’s hotter than ever.

Canggu, tucked away on Bali’s west coast, is expat home base. It’s a short taxi ride from the party towns of Seminyak and Kuta, and yet thanks to kilometres of undeveloped beachfront, stretches of undulating rice paddies and its decidedly bohemian vibe, it offers the laid-back lifestyle for which expats are searching.

For young families Canggu Club is a home away from home with its popular kids’ club, adjoining international school and after-school activities including ballet classes and a little AFL league. You’ll find hipsters sitting shoulder to shoulder at Betelnut or recently opened Nalu Bowls, a smoothie shack with outposts in Uluwatu and Seminyak, their mopeds parked haphazardly out the front.

Emily O’Neill and her husband, Justin, quit their high-paid Melbourne executive jobs seven years ago in search of an expat adventure.

“We’d travelled all over but really loved Bali. It’s close to home, it’s easy, it wasn’t forever to us,’’ Emily says.

The couple live in Canggu with their three children and run a villa rental company, which evolved after Emily’s turn at wedding planning.

“Expats either work in fashion or villas, or they have an international income. A lot of families have a husband who works in Singapore who comes home to Bali on the weekends,’’ she says.

SO WHAT ARE THE EXPAT SECRETS TO THE ISLAND?

Kelly Beckwith, who moved to Bali with her husband a year ago from Singapore in search of new adventure, says there isn’t really a secret Bali anymore.

“For example, we (expats) all get our coffee at the same spots tourists flock to. Sisterfields and Revolver are probably the best in Seminyak but I guess there are lesser-known places we tend to gravitate towards too,’’ Beckwith says.

We’re sitting sipping lattes at Shelter Café, one of the few places in Seminyak that has a view of green playing fields above the congestion of

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Rice paddies in Bali; practise yoga in beautiful settings; recently opened smoothie shack Nalu Bowls; and some of the delicacies at Sarong restaurant, which has long been a favourite with locals.

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scooters and dinged-up vans weaving their way through the streets. It’s above the original Nalu Bowls and isn’t easily spotted from the street.

Beckwith points in the direction of Bali Deli where she buys organic snacks for her two-year-old daughter.

She recommends Ku De Ta for Sunday brunch (because it transforms into a kids’ wonderland with jumping castles, face painting and craft stations galore).

And her tip for a top dinner spot La Lucciola, with its perfectly swaying palm trees overlooking Seminyak Beach, is to go for a morning coffee to experience its true beauty without the crowds.

Here we share a little insight into that expat Bali life.

EATING OUT

Google Bali best restaurants and you will be bombarded with choice.

There’s always a hot new spot to discover but these are a few the local crowd keep returning to.

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CHEAP MIDWEEK DINNER

At Dahana in Seminyak you’re sitting in the owner’s house, overlooking his tropical swimming pool lit up by fairy lights. Although it’s not breaking any records when it comes to Japanese cuisine, it has everything you’d expect from Agedashi tofu to seared salmon, seaweed salads and lightly grilled beef fillet in ginger and soy. The clincher? It’s about half the price of every other restaurant in Seminyak.

DAHANA, PETTINGET, SEMINYAK (NO WEBSITE)

‘EXPATS EITHER WORK IN FASHION OR VILLAS, OR THEY HAVE AN INTERNATIONAL INCOME.’ EMILY O’NEILL

WE LIKE TO PARTY

It’s a labour of love brought to you by a collective including Sydney caterer Adam Dundas Taylor. Barbacoa is best described as Latin American barbecue, with intimate lighting, loft style ceilings that go on forever and a lengthy cocktail list to boot. It’s open from midday to midnight.

BARBACOA, BARBACOABALI.COM

DATE NIGHT

It opened in 2008 and hasn’t looked back. Sarong is an expat favourite for an intimate gathering or dinner for two and, with its perfectly manicured lily pond gardens, discreet service and sense of occasion, not to mention mouth-watering Asian fusion cuisine, it remains at the top of many hit lists.

SARONG, SARONGBALI.COM

LAID-BACK LUNCH

Nook overlooks a rice paddy halfway

between Seminyak and Canggu. It’s a breezy respite from the bustling streets of Seminyak, accessed via a dirt track, with a tangle of mopeds piled in the tiny parking lot indicating you’ve arrived. It radiates island chic, health food shack and Euro comfort all at once.

NOOK, UMALAS (NO WEBSITE)

SUNDAY SESSIONS CASUAL

You’re just as likely to spot an expat family coming in for an early dinner off the beach as you are some of Bali’s fashion elite at Old Man’s in Batu Bolong (neighbouring Canggu). It has beach views, a relaxed vibe and a food and drinks menu that won’t break your daily cash limit.

OLD MAN’S, BATU BOLONG (NO WEBSITE)

THE SCENE

Lunch is overlooking the infinity swimming pool, which drops off over the waves of Uluwatu. Then it’s down the inclinator to the popular beach club where luxurious white day beds on white sand await. Arrive early at Karma Kandara Resort or book ahead as they’re strict on numbers.

KARMA KANDARA, KARMAKANDARA.COM

OLD FAVOURITE

Finn’s Beach Club is set on 180m of private beach, the bar has traditional thatching, kids are welcome and the cocktails flow freely. Many expats argue its sand is whiter than nearby Karma Kandara, but who cares, setting up for the day on a private beach full stop doesn’t have many downsides.

FINN’S BEACH CLUB, FINNSBEACHCLUB.COM

YOGA

Desk Seni is a boutique eco resort specialising in yoga, organic farming and wellness. It’s between Canggu and Umulas and offers one-off retreats, meditation and a full daily schedule of drop-in classes, which attracts the expat crowd. Its open-air studios are set in lush gardens and the gentle breeze makes for a magical yoga experience.

DESK SENI: A VILLAGE RESORT, DESASENI.COM THE WRITER WAS A GUEST OF BALI FAMILY VILLAS, BALIFAMILYVILLAS.COM

BALI CHILL

IN SE AR C H OF T R AN Q U ILLIT Y The largest expat communities are in Seminyak, Canggu and Ubud and, for most, escaping the crowds occasionally helps maintain some sanity.

BALIAN

Balian is a small beach village in West Bali, it’s a one to two-hour taxi ride (depending on the traffic) north of Seminyak but it could be worlds away with its cliched swaying palm trees and world-class surf break. There’s yoga at Shankari Retreat (yogis travel from across the globe to take a class) for non-surfers.

BEDUGAL

For a break from the humidity – Bedugal sits in the mountains above Kuta and Ubud offering some respite from the relentless humidity. Expats venture to the lakeside resort town for the novelty of donning a jumper and for the calming beauty that envelops you on arrival.