Body Image in Marketing

Body Image in Brand Marketing

Jenna van den Heever N0741920

Word Count: 2657

ETHICS CLAUSE

I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that we have faithfully observed the terms of approval in the conduct of this project.

Signed: ............................

Date: ..............................

CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ..............................................

HISTORY OF THE IDEAL BODY..........................

MARKETING INADEQUACY ..............................

DANGEROUS IDEOLOGIES ................................

GUCCI CONTROVERSY ....................................

AMERICAN EAGLE #AERIEREAL .......................

CALVIN KLEIN ................................................

\ COMPARISON .........................

ADVERTISMENT MISSGUIDED #MAKEYOURMARK .....................

LANE BRYANT .................................................

CELEBRITY INFLUENCES ................................

CONCLUSION .................................................

. ...............................................

BIBLIOGRAPHY REFERENCES ..................................................

ILLUSTRATIONS ..............................................

3-4 7-12 15-16 21-22 23-24 25-26 27-28 29-30

31-32 33-34 35-38 39-40 41-42 43 44-46

“Our culture values a thin figure, so any deviation is considered a ‘failure’ physically which means a failure personally” (Straight, B.A 2015)

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INTRODUCTION We live in a society that has a predefined idea that a woman must always be expected to conform to the ideal body stereotype portrayed in the media, contrary to the fact that it is constantly changing. Body image has been the focal point to millions of brand advertising as it links to the strategy of marketing inadequacy, making the consumer compare themselves to the individuals portrayed in the media and internalise negative feelings towards their own bodies. However, over time, the effect of social media as a paradigm shifts an influence on brands in a way that uses more negative marketing messages that are less likely to be shared on social media than if it was more positive and likely to spread a favourable message to an audience. Therefore, based on Stuart Hall’s theory, brands have realised that if the message that they present is negative, the audience will subconsciously focus on what is negative because “encoding will have the effect of constructing some of the limits and parameters within which decodings will operate.” (Hall, S., 2001). Therefore, the fixation on socially idealised body images in the media is challenged in today’s society as brands have begun to notice that the promotion of the diversity of body image will earn them marketing attention as it is a popular topic in society.

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“The basic ideal of marketing in a capitalistic economy is responsible for influencing women to internalize the body image of the dominant culture which is very selective in the representations that are put forth for consumption�

(STRAIGHT, B.A., 2015)

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Our culture is made up of ideologies that unconsciously shapes our behaviour. So, as women, when we are constantly faced with images in the media of models who portray the “perfect body”, we begin to perceive ourselves negatively if we don’t resemble a similar body and that it will make us feel better about ourselves if we did.

We are also taught that women who are ‘sexy’ and admired by men are those who have beautiful bodies and perfect assets, much like what is displayed all over the media. And while the vast majority of images of women are being digitally altered, so are our perceptions of normal, healthy, beautiful and attainable. It is merely a consumer illusion. The media saturates us with inescapable idealised images to which we consume and aspire to replicate in order to be accepted into society.

Why? Because insecurity sells, right?

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Perfection is an illusion that nobody can attain.

HISTORY OF THE IDEAL BODY

Over the years, the standards of the ‘perfect body’ have drastically shifted. Going right back to the Paleolithic era, one of the earliest examples resonates from a statue called The Venus of Willendorf that was crafted somewhere between 24,000-22,000 BCE. The woman in the statue is very curvy with large breasts and large hips, representing a big healthy body of a woman who would be fertile and carry many children.

Then, during the Renaissance Era, society moved away from the modesty and strict religious values of the Middle Ages and artists began painting naked women as they imagined what beautiful women looked like. This began the transition from simply considering women to be objects of fertility, to visions of lust and beauty. Later on, during the Victorian Era, women began wearing corsets to cinch their waists as tightly as possible, creating an hourglass figure which was considered more attractive. Then in the 1920’s, as women were given the right to vote and flappers introduced a complete change in fashion and body image, women were gaining a taste of men’s power and the ideal woman’s body reflected more of a boyish figure. The Golden Age of Hollywood idealised Marilyn Monroe’s curvy and voluptuous body which lead to women flaunting and embracing their curvy figures. The 1980’s is known as the Supermodel Era as models such as Cindy Crawford promoted a tall, slim and athletic figure along with full breasts and bottom. Following the Supermodel Era, the postmodern era that we live in now (2000-present) has bombarded women with so many different requirements for attractiveness. They are expected to be skinny but healthy and have large breasts but a flat stomach and these unrealistic ideals have lead to woman to undertake surgical procedures in order to look like the idealised women shown in the media. So, next time you feel like your own body is less than perfect, just remember that “perfection” is an ephemeral ideal, bound to change and transform over time.

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“There have been ‘rapid shifts’ from the Lillian Russell/Marilyn Monroe standard, which was curvy and voluptuous...”

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“to the 1920’s Flapper/1960’s Twiggy standard, which was unisex slim...”

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“to today’s mix of full-breasted yet narrow-hipped woman”

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“Today, the average fashion model - our representative of the idealcame type - weighs 23 percent less than Before the time foraverage society re-evaluate the American woman” (Torrens quoting Wolf the standards of body 1991:184) image that the media was portraying as being ‘perfect’.

and began reflecting the ideology that all body types are perfect and the use of ‘ordinary’ models might make a real difference to enhancing postive self-image.

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Advertising “captures girls’ fluttering images of themselves and pins them up for sale” (Sharpe, S. 1976), promoting a disillusioned version of what women could look like through purchasing the product. Neil Godfrey states that in today’s society “we came into a period where we had something to say, not just showing the product” (Godfrey, N. 1999)

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“69 percent of girls concurred that models found in magazines had a major influence on their concept of what a perfect body shape should look like.�

(MILLER, J., 2012)

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“The basis of advertising towards females is to make them feel bad [self esteem] or guilty about not having a certain product�

(STRAIGHT, B.A. 2005)

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INADEQUACY MARKETING A particularly controversial advertising campaign is Protein World’s Beach Body Ready which targets members of the public by addressing them directly through posing the question “Are you beach body ready?”.

The weightloss brand is seen to directly address the audience by making her believe that if she does not purchase their products in order to achieve the desired results, then she is not good enough. Therefore the brand is shown to be using the primitive inadequacy approach which emphasises on creating anxiety and negative emotions in people lives, making them feel selfconscious about themselves and thus manipulating them into purchasing their products.

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Through promoting an idealistic body image to show society’s expectations of how woman should look, “suggest you probably are not beach body ready, and that clearly the step to remedy that involves losing weight” (Hackman, R. 2015), as a strategy to sell their weight loss products to women so that they can conform to expectations.

This supports Berger’s theory about how “Publicity persuades us of such a transformation by showing us people who have apparently been transformed and are, as a result, enviable. The state of being envied is what constitutes glamour. And publicity is the process of manufacturing glamour.”

(Berger, J. 1972)

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PROTEIN WORLD

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DANGEROUS

“Researchers have found that unrealistic cultural expectations of thinness could be related to the prevalence of eating disorders among women�

(Garner et. al. 1980; Silverstein et. al. 1986; Bergeron and Senn 1998; Turner 1998)

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Through the evolution of the ‘perfect’ body, the age of the ‘slim’ and ‘boyish’ figure during the 1960’s, brought many issues with health and eating disorders. In desperation, many women became victims of eating disorders as they saw no other way to achieve the ‘desired’ figure that was portrayed and idolised in the mass media.

IDEOLOGIES 22

UNHEALTHILY THIN

GUCCI

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After featuring an ‘unhealthily thin’ model and receiving a complaint to The Advertising Standards Authority, this Gucci ad was banned from publication.

The brand posted an online video on the Times website in December 2016 which included still images of the individual models at the end of the ad.

The brand explained that they believed the models had “slim builds” but were not depicted as unhealthy and tried to defend themselves by stating that the model was fully covered and made sure than none of the models’ bones were visible. This was an attempt to prevent the potential accentuation of thinness in features. Furthermore,Gucci’s intentions were to aim the advert at an “older, sophisticated” audience who would understand the brands concept rather than see it as being controversial. It could be argued that this is an example to how a brand maintains their brand image and heritage and not following the changes in society, in this case through body image.

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BRANDS THAT TRIED AND FAILED

Many brands, however, have only been willing to slightly remold the mold, rather than break it. For example, despite American Eagle’s attempts at embracing untouched photos, the majority of the models used in their Aerie campaign advertisements are thin and conventionally attractive. Therefore, it is apparent that the brand is making an effort to promote body positivity and embracing imperfections however they do not fully connect to consumers of all body types and in order for them to relate to the brand on a personal level.

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AMERICAN EAGLE

#aerieREAL

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BRANDS THAT TRIED AND FAILED

CALVIN KLEIN

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In 2014, Calvin Klein featured a size 14 model, Myla Dalbesio posed at the brands ‘first plus-sized model. Despite their attempts to show how their brand embraces all body types, there was a lot of controversy on social media as people did not believe her to be big enough to be labeled as plus-sized. However, it could be argued that the fashion industry would still consider her to be ‘plus-size’ regardless of what society believes. This is due to predefined ideologies that the industry has promoted over the past decades which has resulted a corrosion in body image ideals. In an interview with InStyle, the model stated that “This whole controversy is starting a greater conversation towards more inclusive fashion” (Dalbesio, M. 2014), indicating that the input of society’s views and opinions will have an effect on the shift in the fashion industry and the way in which they present the body in the media.

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The comparison of these two advertisements is heavily impactful as it highlights how differently brands portray the female body. Despite both brands depicting similar images of a woman’s behind, the way in which the consumer can decode the visual codes in the advert can differ.

The Calvin Klein advert on the left shows a female butt to promote their branded underwear with hardly any imperfections. Additionally, the written code across the image is in first person which can arguably distance the consumer from the individual in the advert.

Therefore, the brand does not make a connection with their audience as the inclusion of a ‘perfect’ female butt alongside the use of personal pronoun creates a lack of a diversity and prevents relatability with a large number of women who do not reflect the idealised image presented by the brand.

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In comparison, the Missguided #MakeYourMark campaign displays a woman’s butt, focusing on her stretch marks and therefore portraying how the brand is embracing female imperfections and encouraging body positivity. The stamp featuring the hashtag, directly addresses the consumer using the imperative ‘make’ which is directly telling consumers to join the body positivity movement that is currently happening in today’s society which rebels again brands that photoshop their models.

Furthermore, in terms of marketing approach, Calvin Klein include the product that they are selling in the advertisement whereas Missguided are only shown to promote their brand message and campaign. This marketing approach relates to Sharpe’s idea that advertising “captures girls’ fluttering images of themselves and pins them up for sale” (Sharpe, S. 1976). It therefore promotes a disillusioned version of what women could look like through purchasing the product. Neil Godfrey states that in today’s society “we came into a period where we had something to say, not just showing the product” (Godfrey, N. 2012).

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BRANDS PROMOTE BODY POSITIVITY

“We’re on a mission to inspire babes the world over to love themselves, for themselves, to embrace your flaws, and to not strive for what the world perceives as perfection. Because f--- perfection, it doesn’t exist” (Missguided, 2017)

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MISSGUIDED

#MAKEYOURMARK

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BRANDS PROMOTE BODY POSITIVITY

Through fixating on socially idealised images in marketing and ad campaigns, individuals can internalise negative images of their own bodies. So the time has come for the marketing industry to re-evaluate.

LANE BRYANT 33

“The Lane Bryant #IMNOANGEL initiative celebrates women of all shapes and sizes by redefining society’s traditional notion of sexy with a powerful core message: ALL women are sexy” (Lane Bryant, 2015)

The use of ‘ordinary’ models will make a real difference to enhancing positive self-image and healthy behaviours among consumers. At the same time, this approach will effectively challenge the stereotypical view that the industry has about body image and appearance. Even these small changes can earn companies marketing attention. With this being said, many clothing retailers, who are struggling for sales, have joined the revolution by presenting their apparel on “authentic” bodies. In the case of Lane Bryant, this is achieved with models who are somewhat the same size as its customers.

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CELEBRITY INFLUENCES

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In today’s society, the influence of celebrities has had a huge impact on the perception of beauty and body image in the media.

Model, Ashley Graham, “became the first size-16 model to land the cover of Sports Illustrated’s Swimsuit Issue, bringing size acceptance into the mainstream with just one photo” (Glamour, 2016). After being humiliated at the age of 17 by skinny models at a campaign photoshoot, Graham used digital platforms as a way to directly connect to woman like her by posting selfies. It was not long before women responded to her, growing her fan base on Instagram to more than 2.6 million with the help of the hashtag #beautybeyondsize in order to make women of all sizes know that they are beautiful no matter what size and shape society tells them to be . Today, Ashley Graham is still pushing for change on behalf of all the women who “believe in size diversity and expect the fashion business to get on board.

Furthermore, she is campaign for “curvy girls” to be included in more major runway shows and is devoted to making a change in the industry. It can be argued that the influence of a celebrity will have more of an impact on the rest of society than a brand will on society due to the fact that a brands ultimate goal is to sell products and make money, whereas a influencers voice is much more authentic and real and will resonate with people on a more personal level.

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“Had a new shoot come out today and was shocked when I found my 19 year old hips and torso quite manipulated.

These are the things that make women self conscious, that create the unrealistic ideals of beauty that we have. Anyone who knows who I am knows I stand for honest and pure self love.�

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CELEBRITY INFLUENCES In 2015, singer and model Zendaya posed for a photoshoot featured in Modeliste Magazine. When she realised that the images were heavily retouched in order to thin her hips and torso, she spoke out on social media. She was shocked to see how a magazine that she has previously posed for chose to manipulate photos of her. The magazine took down the images and fixed the retouching of them.

However, a celebrities influence on a company and the power of their voice can affect that company massively. In particular, as Zendaya spoke out about this incident on Instagram where she has over 40 million followers, she has made an impact towards how her followers view that magazine. Therefore, when companies market using celebrities, they must keep in mind that if they portray that celebrity negatively, then it will negatively affect their brand too.

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CONCLUSION So, what does the future hold for the issue of female body image in the media? It is clear to see that many brands are listening to what women in society are saying about wanting more empowerment of body size diversity and for women’s bodies to be presented in a more realistic light. However, on the other hand, we can understand that changes in the marketing/advertising industry don’t happen overnight. Brands are still going to use bodies that are considered more ‘attractive’ in order to market their products and this will continue until they realise that more people will with a brand that promotes women who have a confident body rather than a ‘perfect body’. In addition, the voyeuristic culture at which we live in allows us to gain an insight into other people’s lives, such as celebrities, through social media.

Therefore, we become more heavily influenced by the voices of these celebrities who are promoting body confidence and shifting our absorption of ideologies from advertising towards celebrity influences. So our predefined idea of the ‘perfect body’ that has been created by the idealised images presented in advertising throughout history which has affected the way women feel about themselves no longer has an impact. Women have constantly been told by brands in the advertising industry that they MUST look a certain way as a strategy to marketing their products through creating a feeling of inadequacy for the consumer. The industry have saturated women’s brain with millions of photos of unrealistic bodies that they must resemble in order to be accepted into society. Women are beginning to take control of their feelings towards their own bodies. They are no longer listening to the media telling them that they are ‘not good enough if they don’t look like this or own a certain product’.

Females in this generation are taking a stand against the narrow, unrealistic body standards and proving to society that any body is beautiful not matter what shape or size.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY CIAMBBRIELLO, R., 2015. Lane Bryant Bashes Victoria’s Secret With ‘I’m No Angel’ Campaign, AdWeek [online] Available at: http://www.adweek.com/creativity/lane-bryant-bashes-victorias-secret-im-no-angel-campaign-163944/ [Accessed 12 Jan. 2018] FELDMAN, J., Lane Bryant’s Newest Campaign Sends A Powerful Message To All The Trolls, Huffington Post [online] Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/entry/ lane-bryant-campaign_us_57e55510e4b0e80b1ba1a663 [Accessed 12 Jan. 2018] GATRELL, C., 2015. Re-thinking the marketing approach to body image could benefit the bottom line, Campaign Live [online] Available at: https://www.campaignlive.co.uk/article/ re-thinking-marketing-approach-body-image-benefit-bottom-line/1340429 [Accessed 16 Feb. 2018] HACKMAN, R., 2015. Are you beach body ready? Controversial weight loss ad sparks varied reactions. The Guardian [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2015/ jun/27/beach-body-ready-america-weight-loss-ad-instagram [Accessed 3 Jan. 2018] LANGNER. L., 1959. The Importance of Wearing Clothes, Constable and Company Ltd. [Accessed 15 Jan. 2018] MACDONALD, M., 1996. Representing Women - Myth of Femininity in the Popular Media, Bloomsbury Academic. [Accessed 3 Feb. 2018] MERRICK, A., 2014. Marketing ‘Real’ Bodies, The New Yorker. [online] Available at: https://www.newyorker.com/business/ currency/marketing-real-bodies [Accessed 15 Feb. 2018] PENNY, L., 2010. Meat Market - Female Flesh Under Capitalism, Zero Books [Accessed 28 Dec. 2017]

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PETTY, A., 2017. How women’s ‘perfect’ body types changed throughout history [online] Available at: http://www.thelist. com/44261/womens-perfect-body-types-changed-throughout-history/ [Accessed 18 Feb. 2018] SUGGETT, P., 2017. The Impact of Advertising on Body Image.

The Balance [online] Available at: https://www.thebalance. com/the-impact-of-advertising-on-body-image-4151839 [Accessed 15 Feb. 2018] THOMPSON, J.K., HEINBURG, L.J., ALTABE, M. & TANTLEFF-DUNN, S., 1999. Exacting beauty: Theory, assessment, and treatment of body image and disturbance. UK: American Psychological Association. [Accessed 13 Feb. 2018] WALTER, N., 2010. Living Dolls: The Return of Sexism. Virago Press UK. [Accessed 2 Feb. 2018] YANG, E.L., CELESTINO, M. & KOEPPEL, K., 2015. Women’s Ideal Body Types Throughout History. Buzzfeed [online] Available at: https://www.buzzfeed.com/eugeneyang/womens-ideal-body-types-throughout-history?utm_term=.jeJK2pW16#.rx3JZzVar [Accessed 18. Feb 2018] YOUNG, M., 2015. Inadequacy Marketing Vs. Empowerment Marketing. [online] Available at: https://prezi.com/4udkc9vwzgvw/inadequacy-marketing-vs-empowerment-marketing/ [Accessed 17 Feb. 2018]

BIBLIOGRAPHY 42

REFERENCES AITCHISON, J. & GODFREY, N., 2012. Cutting edge advertising: How to create the world’s best print for brands in the 21st century. FT Press [Accessed 13 Feb. 2018] BERGER, J., 1972. Ways of Seeing, Penguin Books Ltd. [Accessed 10 Dec. 2017] GLAMOUR, 2016. Ashley Graham on Authenticity and Being a Body Image Activist. [online] Available at: https://www. glamour.com/story/women-of-the-year-ashley-graham [Accessed 7 Feb. 2018] HACKMAN, R., 2015. Are you beach body ready? Controversial weight loss ad sparks varied reactions. The Guardian [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2015/ jun/27/beach-body-ready-america-weight-loss-ad-instagram [Accessed 3 Jan. 2018] HALL, S., 2001. Encoding/decoding. Media and cultural studies: Keyworks, 2. [Accessed 27 Feb. 2018] HELLER, S., 2017. A major retailer is featuring unretouched models on its website — and the internet is here for it. Insider [online] Available at: http://www.thisisinsider.com/missguidedunretouched-models-make-your-mark-campaign-2017-12 [Accessed 6. Feb 2018] SHARPE, S., 1976. ‘Just Like A Girl’ How Girls Learn To Be Women, Penguin Books Ltd; New impression edition. [Accessed 12 Dec. 2017] STRAIGHT, B.A., 2005. The Two Finger Diet: How the Media Has Duped Women into Hating Themselves. iUniverse Inc. [Accessed 8 Dec. 2017]

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DAVENPORT, B., 2012, ‘Live Bold, Healthy Confidence & Relationships’. https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/318348267391114403/ [Accessed 12 Jan. 2018]

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DE DIENES, A., 1953, ‘Marilyn Squatting’ https://www.1stdibs. com/art/photography/ black-white-photography/andre-de-dienes-marilyn-squatting-1953-oversized-vintageprint/id-a_677672/ [Accessed 15 Jan. 2018]

HYACINTHE, D., 2014, ‘Myla Dalbesio, Calvin Klein’s ‘Plus Size’ Model - Jag Models’ http://scan.lusu.co.uk/index. php/2015/01/17/calvin-kleinsplus-size-model/ [Accessed 9 Jan. 2018]

DE VILLENEUVE, J., 1970, ‘Twiggy for Vogue’ https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/twiggy-sixties-icon-invogue [Accessed 15 Jan. 2018]

https://www.fashiongonerogue.com/victorias-secret-balmain-models-photos/ [Accessed 15 Jan. 2018]

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Photographer/Year Unknown https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/249035054374525829/ [Accessed 15 Jan. 2018]

ILLUSTRATIONS 44

https://www.pint ILLUSTRATIONS pin/51158083891 Photo owner unknown, 2016 http://unwritten.digital/ protein-world-art-maximising-fury/ [Accessed 13 Dec. 2017]

REUTERS, 2015, ‘Guy Laroche collection in Paris’ https://www.thequint. com/news/world/francecracks-down-on-anorexia-bans-skinny-models [Accessed 20 Dec. 2017]

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AERIE, 2014, https:// www.skinnyvscurvy. com/beauty-body-image/ american-eagles-unphotoshopped-aerie-real-lingerie-campaign.html [Accessed 13 Dec. 2017]

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SIMPLY BE, 2015, ‘Simply Be - Everybody is Beach Body Ready http://unwritten.digital/ protein-world-artmaximising-fury/ [Accessed 13 Dec. 2017]

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by Corinne Day’ http://www.theenglishgroup.co.uk/ blog/2012/12/27/katemoss-by-corinne-day/ [Accessed 20 Dec. 2017]

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SUORADES, Y., 2007, ‘Media - Part Six’ https://maryana01.deviantart.com/art/RapePart-One-65487936 [Accessed 3 Jan. 2018]

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terest.co.uk/ 15936990/ HYACINTHE, D. (Photo), TYLDESLEY, C. (Screenshot from Twitter.com) http://www.dailymail.co.uk/ femail/article-3656549/ The-truth-Calvin-Klein-splus-sized-model.html [Accessed 13 Dec. 2017]

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MACARI, J., 2016, ‘Ashley Graham 2016: Turks & Caicos’ https://www.si.com/swimsuit/model/ashley-graham/2016/photos#5 [Accessed 17 Feb. 2018]

DEMARCHELIER, P., 2016, ‘Ashley Graham Vogue Cover Jan 2016’ http://www.vogue.co.uk/ article/ashley-graham-january-vogue-cover-star-interview-preview [Accessed 17 Feb. 2018]

MISSGUIDED, 2017, https://www.missguided.co.uk/campaign/ make-your-mark [Accessed 7 Feb. 2018] DEMARCHELIER, P., 1992, ‘Kate Moss - Calvin Klein Jeans’ http://www.whowhatwear.com. au/kate-moss-90s-campaigns/ slide2 [Accessed 15 Jan. 2018]

BRYANT, L., 2015, ‘#IMNOANGEL’ https://www. popsugar.com/ fashion/Lane-Bryant-Im-Angel-Campaign-2017-44038334 [Accessed 15 Feb. 2018]

Artist/Year Unknown https://blogs.rrc.ca/wellness/2018/01/student-body-image-improvement-program-register-today/ [Accessed 3 Jan. 2018]

ADAMS, B., 2017, ‘Nine Loose Women panellists have stripped off for a Body Stories campaign’ https://www.thesun.co.uk/fabulous/3460848/loose-women-bodystories-campaign-men-women-pictures/ [Accessed 28 Feb. 2018]

ILLUSTRATIONS 46

“

There is not one standard definition of beauty or one perfect size”

n”

Ashley Graham, 2017