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jack nicklaus
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contents fall 2007
DestinationFish THE
featured destinations
1
seychelles sojourn
By Pat ford
You might come here for the fabulous fly fishing for bonefish, but you’ll leave with GT fever.
0 1
uganda’s unrivaled nile Perch
By henry gilbey
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Boldly fish the mighty Murchison Falls, where few anglers dare to tread.
fairways and fly rods
Big game in the galaPagos
By marsha Bierman
Jack Nicklaus - world’s greatest golfer and angler extraordinaire .
Not even Darwin envisioned future travelers visiting these South American islands for billfish rather than giant tortoises.
0
Bay of Plenty
By heather ramsay and dennis richardson
New Zealand’s Newest Hot Spot.
Belize in a Breeze By david Barton
Bonefish, tarpon and snapper in the heart of Maya country.
in the midst of ghosts
By doug Kelly
A tourism transformation encompasses this popular Bahamian retreat while its legendary sport fishing remains unchanged.
100 angling the andes By david a. Brown
100
Action abounds in the splendor of Ecuador’s Southern Highlands.
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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FLORIDA’S unspoiled ISLAND paradise
Directly on the Atlantic Ocean and St. Lucie Inlet, at the Southern Tip of Hutchinson Island • Yacht Club & Full-Service Marina Just 5 Minutes from the Ocean and 68 Miles from the Bahamas • Five Miles of Pristine Shoreline • Oceanfront Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf with No Tee Times • HarTru Tennis Courts • Elegant Oceanfront Country Club • Spa/Salon • State-of-the-Art Fitness Center • The Ultimate in Private Security • Just North of the Palm Beaches Visit SailfishPoint.com to preview a wide selection of luxurious residences and homesites offered from $800,000 to $13 Million.
(772) 225-6200 • (800) 799-7772 • SAILFISHPOINT.COM Sailfish Point Realty LLC, a licensed Real Estate Broker. The Sailfish Point Golf Club is a private facility. Prices are subject to change. Dimens ions, features and specifications subject to change without notice. Information is deemed to be accurate, but not warranted. Broker Participation Welcome.
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
contents fall 2007
DestinationFish THE
dePartments
1
from the editor
1
advisory Board
TRAVEL
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DestinationFISH new
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from our readers
Best of the Best Culinary Excellence Around the World.
tacKle to go
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resort rePort
hot yachts
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10
safe travels
igfa leads the way
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legendary encounters
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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from the editor
Peace through Travel
DestinationFish THE
By doug Kelly, Editor-in-Chief
A
TRAVEL
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Founder/Publisher - Captain Mike Genoun
bout two years ago I stood on the dock at a public marina in Thailand, awaiting the crew’s final preparations for a charter boat trip. A fellow
American staying at the same resort walked over and struck up a chat. We’d met quite incidentally the previous evening while seated next to each other in the hotel’s lounge, his girlfriend disinterested as he waxed on about the new pool and guesthouse being added to his property
Editor in Chief - Doug Kelly
DestinationFISH Senior Copy Editor - Ed Mashburn Associate Editor - Kelly Braden
Editorial Assistant - Michael Kelly
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Contributing Correspondents
back home. As we watched the mate and captain provisioning the boat, my acquaintance picked up where he left off the night before, this time with specs about a new private jet he wanted to buy. At that moment, an elderly Thai approached us with a bashful smile on his face, and displayed hand-carved
DestinationFish Dave Brown - David Barton Pat Ford - Marsha Bierman
Heather Ramsay - Dennis Richardson
T H E
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G U I D E T O F I S H I N G T H E Al Pflueger, Jr. - Jodie Johnson
G L O B E
souvenirs for us to see. “Hit the road!” he gruffly barked at the Thai man. His face contorted with hurt and confusion, the old man quietly turned away without comment and slowly ambled off the dock. As I watched him leave, I could only hope he didn’t think all Americans acted that way. Totally unconcerned, my countryman began a fresh monologue about his well-connected family and
Creative Director - Jenifer Kresge Production Manager - Jon Perkinson Web-Developer - Donnovan Stordahl Webmaster - Roger Ellis, Jr. Cover Photographer - Jim Mandeville
world travels. Angered beyond words, I couldn’t conceal my disdain. In no uncertain terms I told this trust-fund Bohemian that a simple “no thanks” would have sufficed, and even a smile or pleasant acknowledgement to the native souvenir seller wouldn’t have been out of order. Taken aback by my indignation, he frowned and walked away, totally clueless – and he always will be.
V.P. Global Advertising - Chris Young Sales Representative - Greg Rybak Client Relations Manager - Raquel Sanchez Office Assistant - Marielle Witting
That type of behavior isn’t restricted to rich Americans, of course, and such acts of rudeness happen everywhere. Conversely, albeit less often, I’ve observed people of prominence who bend over
Public Relations – Jason Genoun Rachel Genoun
backwards to be polite and gracious. While certainly few would consider me a softy, boastfulness and insensitivity by travelers nonetheless rankle me. It’s unnecessary. Like it or not, when we venture to foreign destinations for fishing and travel, we represent our nationality. While we at times encounter petty jealousies and undeservedly receive shoddy treatment, we most definitely can shape opinions by our own respectful behavior. Being boorish and disparaging no matter the status of those we meet only lends to any credence about the age-old Ugly American image. As my Uncle Don used to say, it doesn’t cost a nickel to smile.
Timothy Hinsinger Published by DESTINATION FISH, LLC. President/Chief Executive Officer - Leah Genoun World Headquarters: PO Box 5089 Lighthouse Point, FL 33074 (877) 227-9617- Fax (954) 301-5826
Speaking of smiles, you’ll note in this issue features about the Galapagos Islands and the Seychelles Islands. Though oceans apart, their remote similarities and the inhabitants’ tranquil lifestyles really resonate.We also venture to New Zealand, Central and South America, and the Bahamas. It’s quite a variety in terms of geography and target species. Enjoy. And keep it light.
DestinationFish.Travel ©2007 All Rights Reserved. No part of the publication may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher.
See you there,
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destination fish
AdViSory BoArd LeFty Kreh
Destination Fish would like to thank its Advisory Board, representing internationally known journalists, fishing legends and industry personalities. In addition to their periodic contributions to Destination Fish, they will provide the benefit of their experience in reviewing each issue, suggesting future content and supporting the goal of presenting to our readers the world’s best fishing destinations.
This
IGFA
Hall
MArK SoSin of
Best known as host of
Famer has produced an
Mark Sosin’s Saltwater
abundance of books and
Journal, he’s a Hall of
videos, and received the
Famer, the author of
Lifetime
more than 3,000 articles
Achievement
Award by the American Sportfishing Association.
and currently writing his 30th book.
Stu Apte An inductee into the
FLip pALLot
BoB SteArnS
IGFA’s Hall of Fame,
His
much-acclaimed
An authority on many
he’s held more than 44
TV series The Walker
topics related to fishing,
world records on light
Cay Chronicles has aired
his byline has appeared
tackle and fly including
for 16 seasons, and he’s
in popular magazines
the two longest-stand-
currently filming Fish-
such as Field & Stream,
ing records.
ing the Florida Keys with Flip Pallot.
MArShA BierMAn
BiLLy pAte
pete VAn
A pioneer of standup
Best known for his 188-
gytenBeeK
short-rod fishing, she’s
pound world record tar-
He’s the only person
registered
2,500-plus
pon on 16-pound tippet
to have served both as
billfish captures, and
that stood for over 20
Executive Director of
she’s the first woman to
years, he’s also racked up
Trout Unlimited and as
win the Bahamas Billfish Championship.
many billfish achievements on fly.
President of the Federation of Fly Fishers.
ChiCo FernAndez
AL pFLueger, Jr.
JoAn WuLFF
He’s achieved a variety
A master of all styles
She’s won 17 national
of world records – most
of fishing, he can whip
and one international
notably the largest red-
anything from bonefish
casting titles, and the only
fish taken on fly (42
to billfish, and even has
woman ever to have won
pounds, 5 ounces) – and
an artificial reef named
a National Distance Fly
makes frequent personal appearances.
1
Outdoor Life and many others.
after him.
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
Championship against all-male competition.
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on the cover: jacK nicKlaus
FAirWAyS & F Ly ro d S T
Besides producing books, videos and myriad articles over the years on golf instruction and his career, in 2004 he and his wife Barbara opened the doors to the Nicklaus Children’s Hospital in West Palm Beach, Florida. He even has an official bank note with his picture on it issued by the Royal Bank of Scotland – the only living person outside of the royal family and the only non-Scot ever so
he head cocks slightly to the right just before
sweep a winner to the top in one arena often spell
the low, smooth take-away. The body coils
success in a totally different pursuit. Whether it all
Those who know him say Jack’s focus never
and pauses at the top, and only a silvery blur precedes
comes down to an innate need to achieve or the
fades, pun notwithstanding. Always conducting
a downswing of anomalous power and precision.Tee
refusal to accept anything less than being the best,
himself publicly in a classy fashion, never impugning
shots skyrocket to the clouds with hang times no
Jack Nicklaus is cut from that type of cloth.
the game that catapulted him to fame, ever ready to
honored.
NFL punter can match; high, faded irons kiss the
Now in his late 60s,awaiting the next flats tarpon
leverage a business opportunity, his fly patterns now
greens as delicately as snowflakes. Crouching over
trip or mountain trout excursion lights his fire more
fill the air instead of golf balls. And these days, that’s
pressure putts with an uncanny concentration and
than striding another fairway. Eschewing the role of
no letdown for Jack William Nicklaus. •
a downright intimidating confidence, the arrival of
a ceremonial golfer,
Jack Nicklaus as an amateur in the late 1950s gave
Nicklaus continues
ominous notice to the PGA Tour that someone
a successful business
truly special stood on the horizon.
career that includes designing
golf
of Michael Jordan in basketball, Martina Navratilova
courses worldwide,
in tennis and Emmitt Smith in football roughly
the manufacturing
equal the years the Golden Bear dominated the
and
distribution
highly competitive game of golf. He racked up 18
of
high-quality
professional major championships, two U.S.Amateur
golf clubs through
titles and numerous other victories and honors. But
Nicklaus
staying in the upper echelon of golf allowed time for
Equipment,
few other sporting diversions. That is, with one big
global
exception – fly fishing.
of his name on
Not surprisingly, he’s an outstanding caster
Golf the
licensing
apparel and golf
and excellent angler. It causes one to wonder how
academies,
Nicklaus made the successful transition from being
his annual hosting
the world’s greatest golfer to an angler extraordinaire.
of the Memorial
It’s probably for the same reason you can drop a
Tournament
billionaire blindfolded and penniless into a corn
Muirfield
field in Kansas and in months he’ll be the leading
Golf
corn dealer in the state.The same characteristics that
Dublin, Ohio.
1
and
at Village
Club
©jim mandeville
Amazingly, the combined professional heydays
in
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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View frOm The gardeNs aT hammOck Beach DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
1
from our readers
Himalayas Happy
An Apt Student
I couldn’t believe those pictures of mahseer
In 1990 I met Stu Apte quite accidentally while
(“King of the Himalayas”) as I never even knew
fishing the Gallatin River in Montana. I didn’t know
about them. I’d really love to go to Nepal one
him from Adam as we talked on and on about fly
day as those fish look totally prehistoric, sort of a
fishing. When I mentioned I was new to the area,
cross between a tarpon and a sturgeon. I also had
he offered all sorts of information about the best ways to catch rainbow trout and the best flies to use. After watching me cast, he even mentioned some tips that improved my distance and accuracy. We shook hands and went our separate ways, but years later I saw him on TV shows and realized I’d met a very accomplished and well-known fisherman. Since then I’ve bought his videos and read magazine articles he’s written.That’s why it was such a pleasant
Have a comment or question? Email us at: info@DestinationFish.travel. Destination Fish reserves the right to select, condense and edit letters for purposes of clarity and space. •
DestinationFish
no idea that animals like elephants, rhinos and tigers lived in that area. It’s a totally awesome place. graeme Fairer-Smith - London, england
THE
Maoist territory on the Karnali River.
King of the Himalayas To catch the legendary mahseer, you need a strong arm and a cool head in this land of elephants, tigers and rhinos.
he sun smoldered over the foothills of Nepal, silhouetting a g roup of villagers watching us on the r idge above.
Mark deftly double-hauled his line over the glitter ing waters of the Kar nali River. The Woolly Bugger dropped on the boiling
The 9-weight rod spasmed as if tied to a fishtailing Chevy, and the 10-pound leader easily snapped. His eyes gaping, Mark sputtered, “Wow, that fish hit like a freight train.” We watched
DestinationFISH
fishing light tackle or fly inshore than in the blue
DestinationFish
water. I also understand that the entire country is like a giant nature show. Any suggestions?
in the Himalayas? By the way, I’ve now added
T H E
T R A V E L
G U I D E
T O
F I S H I N G
T H E
G L O B E
Mark Knudsen - toronto, Canada
Nepal to my list of places to go before I die.
you will pass on my regards. Manuel gonzalez - Kingwood, tX
Frank Fine - Miami, FL
Editor’s Note: Thanks Manny, Stu indeed wrote
Editor’s Note: It indeed gets snowy and chilly in the
Angler relives about his long-standing AA fAmed greAt Achievement By STu APTE ©stu apte (3)
near Pinas Bay. The captain made a pass around the
By DOUG KELLY
Striking It Rica Pursuing sailfish off the land where t h e c r o c o d i l e s a n d t h e j a g u a r s P l ay.
mountains of the Himalayas. However, the author’s
legendary encounters
tree, and we could see three large dolphin about 15 or so feet below it, their green bodies and blue
J
visit to the western portion of Nepal in spring avoided
As he backed us within 40 feet of the tree, I tied
“Vela! Vela!” declared the captain atop the
gurgle of the fly, I could see all three fish elevating to strike. As happens all too often, the smallest one got
oil tycoon Ray Smith to visit a fishing lodge
there first. As if the typical strength of a big dolphin isn’t enough with all the jumps and hard runs, my gear
days in the hope I’d consider becoming the club’s
made it all the more challenging. The smallish reel
manager. Earlier that year I’d gone back to flying
actually was made for steelhead trout and contained
as a Pan Am pilot, and the only way I’d give that
200 yards of backing plus the fly line. At times so
up would be if he’d gave
a mate went overboard to revive a released sailfish, flashing a hand signal that all’s going to be just fine.
encountered from October through December. fiberglass rod felt very willowy, equivalent to a 10-
per year.
modern-day rods.
While that didn’t
After about 35 minutes, I worked the raging
come about, I’ll never
bull dolphin to boat side. Racing back to the lodge,
forget what did occur
the IGFA certified scale registered 58 pounds. Even
on that visit. Fishing
so, we lamented the fact that the other two dolphin
one day with my then-
were far bigger, and I’m not exaggerating to say that
wife out of single-screw
one exceeded 70 pounds and the other was close to
diesel boat, I’d already
100. The dolphin turned out to be a world record
sailfish, making it the first
on 12-pound tippet, and still remains the longest-
Pacific sail ever caught
standing saltwater record on fly. Coincidentally, a
on fly. Not much later,
year later out of the same lodge and using the same
we came across a large
rod with 12-pound tippet, I caught what’s today the
mahogany tree floating
second longest-standing saltwater fly record: a 136-
off the mouth of a river
pound Pacific sailfish. •
94 DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007
DestinationFish.travel
Hochman, a custom rod builder, can pump and wind with the best of them. As the Pacific sailfish twisted, twirled and put on a show that the Flying Wallendas would envy, Hochman artfully maneuvered the rod to meet the 100-
native normally of quiet disposition, rose like a
pound-plus fish’s every antic. In about eight
Centurion about to do battle. The mate lobbed
minutes, the sail succumbs with the leader and
a live goggle-eye jack behind the now idling
then its bill secured. A few quick pictures, and
boat, and the rest of the scene went according
let the animal recover a bit before releasing. So
to Hoyle: fish rises in the trolled lure spread, bait
beautiful.
1-49.indd 24-25
6/27/07 12:27:47 PM
bottom of the spool. On top of that, the limber
weight – nothing like the backbone and strength of
distinguished Advisory
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007
encounter commences.
bridge as he excitedly repeated the Spanish word for sailfish. Sanford Hochman, a Cape Cod
much line was out of the reel that I could see the
me an irrevocable 10year contract at $25,000
whipped a 112-pound
24
©tosh Brown
right alongside the tree. By the second strip and
n December 1964, I received an invitation from
he built called Club de Pesca Panama (now called Tropic Star Lodge). Ray said I’d be his guest for 10
tossed out, fish transfers to the bait, line tightens, circle hook does its thing, and the man-fish
tuned out the Marley CD as heads swung to the rod now throbbing to life in a starboard holder.
both icy conditions and monsoons that are often
a large popping bug fly with a 2/0 hook onto my
ust as the words “We jammin’” blared over the speakers the first time aboard the Croc of
Gibraltar, a rigger clip snapped. My brain instantly
pectoral fins lit up like neon signs.
12-pound tippet. I made a presentation, and it landed
Board.
GLOBE
T H E T R A V E L G U I D E T O F I S H I N G T H E G L O B E going there but would rather spend my time
its massive frame create a wide V as it sped off , disclosing its
willing to share his knowledge with me, and I hope
on Destination Fish’s
THE
really intrigued me. I’ve been thinking about
sink deep before str ipping it back a few feet. And all hell broke
Wouldn’t the streams be frozen most of the year
I
FISHING
Pacific side of Costa Rica (“Striking It Rica”)
seam where the smaller Bher i River merged. He let the fly
as an angler but someone I’ll always remember as
edition, and he also serves
TO
Article and Photos By nAthAn wArd
T
a copy of Destination Fish. Stu’s not only a legend
Encounters”) in the last
GUIDE
The article about the offshore fishing on the
weight somewhere in the 40-pound class.
world records (“Legendary
TRAVEL
Costa Rica Curious
Taking a ride on a dugout taxi deep in
loose.
surprise to see Stu’s name and picture when I bought
Send Us Your Thoughts
A Little Farther North My fishing buddies and I have taken trips to
DestinationFish.travel
Sitka, Ketchikan and Juneau. Southeast Alaska is
Himalayas Happy We’ve never seen anything quite so amazing as
amazingly beautiful and the fishing for salmon and halibut is hard to beat. After reading Bob
Editor’s Note: One would be hard-pressed to find any fishless portion of that country’s amazing Pacific and Caribbean coastlines. The national forests and jungles throughout Costa Rica indeed offer a variety of animals and scenery unrivaled by most other
Stearns’ article (“Giant Salmon of Goodnews
regions of the world. Besides the south Pacific coast
the stories about Nepal and the Himalayas (“His
River”), it gave us food for thought about trying
of Costa Rica that’s depicted in the article, you’ll
Majesty’s Trout” and “King of the Himalayas”).
other portions of Alaska too.
find excellent prospects north of there off Quepos
Destination Fish really stands out as much more than just another fishing magazine. I do hope
to Guanacaste. On the Caribbean coast, many fine Wes Barfield - Spokane, WA
fishing lodges dot the Rio Colorado at the northern edge of the country as well as south in Rio Parasmina
you will continue to include places like those in
Editor’s Note: We fully agree that Alaska represents
the future, as we very much enjoy learning about
a very special part of the world for anglers. You can
and on to Limon and Puerto Viejo. Besides snook
unusual destinations and the various cultures at
be assured that Destination Fish will continue to
and tarpon, upriver rain forests offer great light-
each of them.
provide coverage of the various regions of America’s
tackle and fly-fishing action for exotic species such as
“Last Frontier,” including the indescribable beauty
machacha and guapote. Very few anglers who travel
and bounty of interior Alaska in our next issue.
to Costa Rica return disappointed.
nicki a nd William pletzke - Chicago, iL
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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uganda ’ s
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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un rivaled Nile Perch boldly fish the mighty murchison falls, where few anglers dare to tread.
M
ake no mistake, it’s a long, long way
down.The ground beneath my feet
literally trembles with the sheer, unbridled ferocity of the explosive Murchison Falls. Standing atop them is like feeling Africa shaking with anger at the sheer impertinence of us mortals being so brazen as to come and fish these rich waters. Without another word, my Scottish guide Alastair Brew and I begin the long
march from our camp down into the vast, writhing plunge pool at the base of the falls. Only one species of big fish could possibly be tough enough to live and thrive in waters such as these, and that is the monstrous Nile perch, one of the world’s largest freshwater fish. Clinging somewhat precariously to the overhanging branches, we make our way through the scrub and on toward the dancing mass of water. The whole of the upper Nile River is unceremoniously squeezed through the narrow gap that is Murchison Falls, and the water literally explodes with a staggering fury and violence, unlike anything I have ever seen. Alastair knows of the rich pickings if you’re prepared to chance your foothold and fish the plunge pool, affectionately known by fishermen as the Devil’s Cauldron. Armed with a mere spinning rod and a bright-orange Shad Rap seems akin to hunting elephants with a walking stick, but Alastair exudes a quiet confidence. Indeed, he seems to be totally at home in this wild, pulsating heart of Africa. Can you imagine how on earth the early explorers such as Sir Stanley Baker in 1864 travelled through Africa’s untamed interior? article & Photos By henry gilbey DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
1
uganda ’ s unrivaled
PERCH HEAvEN
Nile Perch
The Nile perch is principally a species of the great African lakes such as Victoria, Nasser and Albert
Uganda home, plus it’s one of the very few countries
the surging water, on the lookout for a rogue wave
where you can see mountain gorillas in the Bwindi
– the water here looks more like a storm-tossed sea
Impenetrable National Park.
than a calm river – or a huge, hungry Nile crocodile.
– the latter producing a 415-pounder in 2001. Nature
The infamous Entebbe Airport lies very close to
Ten turns of the reel handle and I can feel the lure
being what it is, this awesome fish has made its way
the bustling capital of Kampala, and most flights afford
swimming jaggedly in the current; five more turns ...
into the upper Nile, most likely out of Lake Albert,
wonderful, sweeping views of vast LakeVictoria.
and I hit something solid.
and now haunts Murchison Falls like the lions in the surrounding national park. An abundance of natural
g i a n t v u n d u c at f i s h d i s p l ay n o i n h i b i t i o n i n at ta c k i n g d e e p - r u n n i n g p l u g s .
prey species holds these fish here, and nobody knows
“Put the lure as tight to that big tree as you can,” says
I no sooner yell, “It’s a snag” before exclaiming,
for sure the numbers of resident perch.
Alastair. “That’s where the small fish will be, and these
“What on earth is this?” Line savagely rips from my
Uganda’s violent past sadly still haunts the mere
perch love to hunt them.” He takes a frighteningly
reel and a huge silvery flank suddenly thrashes on the
mention of the country, but with open eyes you will
precarious stance and proceeds to fish right into the most
surface.
see a magnificent portion of Africa climbing back to
aggressive-looking water possible.
Alastair’s face contorts. “Whatever you do, stop
its feet and attracting adventurous tourists. Plenty of
My first cast bounces the lure off the rocks, and as
that perch before he makes the main current, and
diverse, safe and unique national parks exist such as
the waters swirl back I can see small bait fish in the swell.
watch out for crocs,” he shouts. Nothing I love more
Murchison Falls, and many tour operators offer all
Second cast, and the lure smacks the surface and
than helpful advice. If the fish makes the savage main
kinds of safaris. A third of the world’s bird species call
instantly dives with my retrieve. One eye is forever on
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
flow DestinationFish.travel
uganda ’ s unrivaled Ü
Bring your camera
Nile Perch
murchison falls isn’t all about the fishing, hard though it may be to drag one’s self away from it. it would be a shame to visit Kenya, tanzania and uganda and not go on a wildlife safari. you can visit zoos all you want, but nothing really prepares one for the awe of seeing african animals in the wild, especially when a guide like alastair imbues the experience with such wellinformed enthusiasm. we drove about an hour down the nile from our base camp to murchison falls national Park, paid our entrance fees, took a ferry across the river and entered the protected areas. here i saw elephants, giraffes, lions, various antelopes and buffalo, not to mention the family of hippos living and wallowing next to
nile perch grow big and tenacious in the lakes and upper nile.
our base camp, plus the many large, well-fed crocs living around the falls. we also hired a boat and skipper one day to travel from the ferry back up to murchison falls, and on the way we stopped to fish for the numerous vundu catfish that grow in excess of 100 pounds. mighty fish eagles swooped down close to us. i even spotted one of the rarest birds in the world – the shoebill stork, huge and ungainly. many intriguing parks beckon in addition to murchison falls national Park, and i strongly advise anybody travelling this far to visit parks such as Bwindi impenetrable and Queen elizabeth.
go
to
www.uwa.or.ug
for details about uganda’s national parks. DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
uganda ’ s unrivaled
Nile Perch
Ü
Where to toss the Bags the entebbe airport in Kamapa is
modern and accepts direct and connecting jetliner flights from all points of the globe. for us citizens, a passport valid for at least three months beyond the date of entry, visa and evidence of yellow fever vaccination are required. visas are available at entebbe airport upon arrival but they’re best to obtain earlier from one of the embassies of the republic of uganda – some airlines require travelers to have a visa before boarding, particularly on weekends, so check with your airline on that well beforehand. a visa for a single entry that’s valid for three months costs $50, $100 for multiple entries valid for six months and $200 for a visa for multiple entries for a year. a non-refundable visa application must be filled out with a postal money order payable to the uganda embassy attached. for additional information, go to www. ugandaembassy.com/travel.html. above: ugandans learn how to balance and transport big loads on bicycles.
our rather basic camp site at the top
b e l o w : a h i p p o f l a s h e s a m o u t h y w a r n i n g t o k e e p a s a f e d i s ta n c e .
of murchison falls entailed just a water tank, a “modesty” wall, a tree from which to hang the portable shower and a little stone for meal times. whilst alastair felt quite comfortable bathing every day in the river – virtually right next to a family of hippos – i personally was happier taking a shower under the stars and away from anything that might eat me. for malaria precautions i always bring along appropriate medication. for those more drawn to comfort and conveniences, several lodges can be recommended: Paraa safari lodge (www. paraalodge.com), sambiya river lodge (www.afritourstravel.com) and red chilli hideaway (www.redchillihideaway.com). i arranged my trip through steve Banner at a uK travel company called wildlife & (www.wildlifewilderness.com).
you can try emailing alastair Brew directly at alastairbrew@gmail.com, but bear in mind
that he’s often not near a computer.
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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©henry gilbey (2)
wilderness
uganda ’ s unrivaled I’ll be fighting it for a week, but just what can I do against such insane power?
FORGET THE N ORM Trolling large lures from a boat is the traditional
Nile Perch
To wake up and see fresh hippo tracks near your tent certainly slams home just how
Not only do I very badly not want to fall
way of fishing for Nile perch on the big lakes, but I can’t
“out there” this experience really is.
into the churning waters of the Devil’s Cauldron,
stand just sitting and waiting. Stalking the outrageously
“Let it drift with the current and watch for
I seriously wish to avoid meeting the local water-
exciting river waters on foot tempts me, and I’m never
the balloon to start shaking,” advises Alastair.
based wildlife as well.
happier than when working hard for my fishing.
I’m casting a live bait called an awaka into a back eddy with a bright red balloon
©henry gilbey
you don’t need to visit a zoo to witness elephants and other wildlife.
for a float, a 100-pound nylon leader and a
The fisherman in me begs to know what’s on
This Murchison Falls, extreme-Africa stuff calls
big 8/0 hook. It’s the same rig I’d used for
the end of my line, so I give the fish as much grief
to the adventurous only, a delightful rhythm of rising
the lure fishing – I assure you that travelling
as possible.When Alastair braves the slippery rocks to
with the first rays of another dawn to take an early
as light as possible when trekking the falls
jump down and help bring over 60 pounds of Nile
breakfast, going fishing, seeking a brief break from the
makes sense for this physically demanding
perch to hand, the pent-up adrenaline seems to exit
midday heat to grab lunch, resting awhile or processing
fishing. I let the current tighten the main line
my body in such a rush that sitting down and simply
photos on the laptop, going fishing again, heading back
and work the bait into the swirling eddies,
staring at such a beast seems about the only option.
for supper, talking about yet more fishing in the inky
whilst all the time my eyes are trained on the
We release the perch and watch it disappear into the
blackness under a roof of stars, and then an early bed as
red bobbing float for signs of a very scared
swirls
the African night plays its many tunes.
little fish.
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
Nile Perch
The Nile perch can be successfully pursued
12-weight outfits, fast-sinking lines and big, heavy flies
mind is all about the outdoors experience.We drank
in a variety of ways around the falls, but torrential
on 6/0 hooks. I do believe that a dedicated fly-fishing
hot, sweet tea every morning as dawn rose over the
rain on our third night undermined realistic chances
sortie could yield shocking results when conditions are
roaring Nile, and the hippos grunted, snorted and
for fly fishing – too much color added to the water
favorable.
settled back into the river after a night’s feeding. At
“Subtlety is not needed here,” says Alastair,“so tie a big fly with plenty of black
while fishing or camping it’s wise to be on the lookout for the king of the jungle.
and silver – then hang on.”
Murchison Falls National Park covers an area of
A violent shaking of
1,557 square miles situated in northwestern Uganda.
Alastair’s float indicates a
Murchison Falls is a mere 20-foot wide gorge where
bait fish in trouble, but he
the Nile literally explodes into the seething Devil’s
cautions to always let a big
Cauldron and then continues on a slower, wider
perch really take it properly
route until it reaches Lake Albert. The huge Lake
before slamming home
Victoria is on the southern part of Uganda, with
the hook. His float surges
which it shares borders with Kenya and Tanzania
across the foamy water
After first arriving in Kampala, I set off with Alastair
and suddenly disappears,
and admired the sheer vibrancy and color of local
and Alastair sets hard. The
city life. We left Kampala behind and entered a
predator quickly takes the
quieter, wilder world and rutted roads, broken only
stretch out of the line and
by small towns, villages and small retail stalls on the
charges for the main current
side of the road selling wonderfully fresh local fruits.
line, and as I turn for my
I’ve never tasted sweeter pineapples, melons and
camera I see Alastair deftly
bananas.
dancing across and down the rocks to give chase.
Whilst fishing can be good year-round, most fishermen concentrate their efforts from December
Fight the fish as hard
to late March and then June to August. Early and later
as it fights you – it’s the only way to turn them – but
in the day tends to be best. Warm, clear conditions
unlike Alastair, I never found the courage on this trip to
and low river levels are ideal.
get into the water and unhook the fish, cradle it gently
Alastair and I released a number of the massive
for a photo, and then release it. The crocodiles I saw
Nile perch each day of our trip, scrambling along
were far too big for me to brave the waters, and I have
the falls with care and rejoicing that few rivers can
heard too much about a hippo’s temperament. In time
claim to be as mighty as the Nile. I implore you to
I’m sure I’ll find a degree of Alastair’s confidence.
go to Africa, but be very careful – if you’re anything
Remote areas of Uganda represent a wild, untamed Africa, and staying at Murchison Falls in my
like me, you’ll spend the rest of your life looking for excuses to go back. For additional facts visit http://travel.state.gov/ travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1051.html.
Based in the United Kingdon, Henry Gilbey travels constantly in his role as a fishing photographer, writer, TV producer and tackle consultant. A ECUADO San Lorenzo COLOMBIA 0 70 m complete fishing junkie since the age Esmeraldas 70 km 0 Tulcán of seven, he fell into T V programming ab amba Rosa Zárate R. Ibarra by mistake, but this was all the Ag Santo Domingo u a r i c o R. de los Colorados c excuse he needed to forge a budding Quito Manta Chone BayHenry’s never Latacunga career. happier than Napo R. Manta Tena Portoviejo Ambato when going Balzar on fishing adventures Cononaco Riobamba Santa and writing and photographing them. Elena Babahoyo Pa Bay ra Río Tigre s ta Visit his web site at www.henryMacas Guayaquil za La Libertad R. Azogues gilbey.co.uk. • Gulf of Cuenca
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SWEET TEA AND FRUITS
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Sa nt iag o
• Official Name: Republic of Uganda • Government: Democratic republic, independent from the United Kingdom since 1962; President Yoweri Museveni has been in power since 1986 when the civil war ended • Capital: Kampala • Population: 27,616,000 • Area: 236,040 square kilometers (91,136 square miles), of which 15 percent is water; Uganda is a landlocked country in east Africa, bordered by Kenya, Sudan, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Rwanda and Tanzania • Resources: Substantial natural resources, with agriculture employing over 80 per cent of the workforce. The country is blessed with consistent levels of rainfall. • Weather: Dry seasons are mid-December to mid-February and June and July; wet seasons run March-May and October and November • Official Languages: English, Swahili plus over 40 tribal dialects • Currency: Ugandan shilling ($1U Shilling = $1US Dollar), with US dollars accepted • Religion: Christianity (85%) and Islam (15%)
hippo family soon became wonderfully reassuring.
ule
other notes of interest About uganda
first somewhat alarming, the sounds of the nearby
Da
– although Alastair has taken them over 50 pounds on
©henry gilbey
uganda ’ s unrivaled
Tig
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R.
Loja
~n¥
on
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PERU
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Unique, Unchanged, and Breathtaking Uganda
5GANDA`S LONGEST ESTABLISHED SAFARI COMPANY
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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Seychelles Sojourn you might come here for the faBulous fly fishing for Bonefish, Bonefish, B But ut you’ll leave with gt fever.
f
our degrees south of the equator, a thousand miles from nowhere, deep in the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, I finally set foot
upon the Seychelles Islands. During the past few years, friends filled my ears about their spectacular trips here with stories of release after release of bonefish from morning to night. As a Miamian with a decided passion for fly fishing the flats, all those stories resonated in my head until I could resist no more. But I quickly learned that bonefish represent only one target species in these enchanted isles, and not the most popular at that. The Seychelles Islands consists of 115 granite and coral islands – 41 inner granite islands and 74 outer coral reef atolls and islets – situated north of Madagascar off the east African coast in the western Indian Ocean. Mahé, the main island with the only international airport, measures 13 miles long and three miles wide with a mountainous interior surrounded by over 70 beautiful tropical beaches.The capital city of Victoria offers an abundance of fine hotels and restaurants. First listed on charts in 1506 by Portuguese explorer Fernando Soares as the “Seven Sisters,” the Seychelles (pronounced “say shells”) appeared to be so insignificant that when the British ships Ascension and Good Hope arrived at Mahé in 1609, they didn’t even stake a claim to the island chain. In 1756, the king of France claimed the islands and named Mahé the Isle Seychelles. Skirmishing over the islands continued between the French and British for centuries, but in 1976 the Seychelles became independent. Today’s population represents a mix of descendants of French and British settlers, African slaves and probably a few pirates.
written and PhotgraPhed By DestinationFish.travel
pat F o r D
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
1
Seychelles Sojourn Rather than staying in a hotel on one of the islands, I opted to try a mother ship
anglers per week at either Cosmoledo or Providence Atoll.
Being new to the Seychelles – and the only American in the group – I especially wanted to
operation through Flycastaway Outfitters in
I chose to stay aboard the 115-foot schooner
immediately prove my mettle by catching some
Johannesburg, South Africa. Flycastaway offers
Sea Pearl at Providence Atoll, spending a remarkably
big ones. However, I quickly learned that tidal
four mother ships from November through
adventurous time with co-owner Arno Matthee,
stages dictate what you fish for at a particular
mid-April that can each accommodate 10
who also served as one of our guides.
time. For example, you won’t find giant trevally on the higher tides and, being present this trip
as the tide rises, huge schools of bonefish flood the flats.
during a full-moon phase with dead lows each day around noon, when the flats go dry, the fishing of course shuts down. So, we’d fish early in the mornings and late in the afternoons, trusting the guides to know where to go.
Pulling the triggers at Providence We flew southwest from Mahé to the Farquhar Group of atolls – one of five such groups comprising the Seychelles’ outer islands – on a private charter Beechcraft 1900. We spent the balance of the day getting settled into the Sea Pearl’s air-conditioned rooms and organizing tackle. That evening the Sea Pearl ran 40 miles north to the splinter islands of the Providence Atoll. This area possesses the biggest bonefish in the Seychelles, but it’s still pretty much unexplored. The Flycastaway guides only started fishing Providence regularly in 2007, and they’ve only scratched the surface of its angling potential. I immediately discovered why the Seychelles might be the most prolific bonefish flats in the world – I saw literally hoards of them. School after school appeared everywhere when the tide came in, with practically no casting pauses in between. To catch bones on the falling
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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Seychelles Sojourn bonefish battles (what a wonderful dilemma). Other flats targets involved snapper, parrotfish, milkfish and giant trevally. The multi-colored Pacific triggerfish put up very impressive fights on my 9-weight rod. They’d hang around coral formations rather than scour the sand like bonefish, and their bodies looked like pieces of coral floating in the crystal water.With small, beak-style mouths, triggers like small crab patterns about the size of a dime. Most of the time we could sightcast for triggers because their yellow tails would break the surface. Besides triggers, I caught an amazing variety of snappers, groupers and a whole host of unidentifiable critters. clockwise from left: snapper readily take flies, ad do feisty triggerfish.
tide, we positioned near one of the pathways they use to exit the flats. I found a tidal crease one day that formed a creek through which bonefish, triggerfish and most everything swam. I stood on the edge and watched the fish parade by. I caught a couple of bonefish in the 5pound range before water drained off the flats, but hundreds appeared as it rose again. Every time a school came within casting range, a leadeyed Gotcha pattern would produce a strike. The ensuing fight would scatter the school, but within minutes of releasing a catch they’d be back again. For two hours we all released bonefish with literally every other cast. “It’s too easy,” said a grinning Matthee about bonefishing these flats, and we agreed. Our attention hence switched to other species, if for nothing else a respite from the endless DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
Seychelles Sojourn Catching fish you’ve only seen in
a lagoon or channel with no way to give chase, and
guide casting a surf-spinning rod with a 2-ounce
aquariums is quite an experience. As Matthee
numerous coral heads that seem to be every 100
hookless plug, which he could toss 100 yards or so
said, “If it moves, cast to it, because if any fish
feet apart that make cut-offs commonplace. Rods
it seemed. As we marched along, he’d cast the plug
here sees a fly, it’s gonna eat it.”
and reels need to be of tarpon quality with a drag
into the deeper water and tease in the GTs.Actually,
strong enough to practically winch a boat onto a
teasing really isn’t an accurate description – exciting
trailer.
them to a frenzied, arm-jolting charge is more
gt fever
On the low end of the tide, GTs cruise the
accurate.The plug must be moved along the surface
As it turned out, giant trevally – referred to
edges of flats in deeper waters of the lagoons and
as fast as the reel handle could be turned so that a
as GTs or jeets by our guides – take center stage
along channels next to beaches, waiting to ambush
GT might be enticed to crash the lure, pull off line
as the challengers of choice in these islands. But
anything leaving the flats. On ebb tides, they hang
and resume the chase when the plug “escaped.”
when I pulled out my IGFA tarpon leaders to target giant trevally, everyone laughed at me. But far from
while most anglers come for the gray ghosts, giant trevally steal the show.
embarrassing me, Matthee explained that in the beginning, the guides also tried 20-pound tippets
out around coral heads, following sharks around to
On one such occasion, our guide teased in a
to no avail, and moved to 30, 50, 80 and now 120-
feed on the leavings of any kills, and pretty much eat
GT from deeper water. As the amazing fish drew
pound Sufix straight from the fly line to the fly –
anything they encounter. Matthee said that some
within 100 feet, I sent a large streamer fly about 60
and still it’s not easy to catch a GT in the 60-pound
anglers have taken GTs up to 130 pounds, but only
feet and about 30 feet to the right of the teaser. I
class or higher. The reasons for this stem from our
with their “no rules” tippets.
stripped as fast as I could, and the trevally swung off
usually fighting fish while standing on the edge of
A successful technique with GTs involves a
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
the teaser and lined up directly behind my fly. The DestinationFish.travel
Seychelles Sojourn GT closed the distance, with first the top of its head
Bring your camera
competitions. chartering a sailing or motor
you won’t find better beaches than
yacht provides access to one of the most
we could see the mouth and pectoral fins. It ate the
those of the seychelles, framed by granite
breathtaking archipelagos on earth, with
fly about a dozen feet from my rod tip and as I set
boulders or expanses of powder-soft sands.
seemingly
the seychelles hosts some of the largest
beaches with no one else in sight.
rising above the surface of the water. Seconds later
the hook, the GT took off down the flat.
Ü
endless
lagoons,
bays
and
seabird colonies in the world and 81 endemic
a special treat involves encountering a
Even with my drag set at max, the fish seemed
plant species such as the jellyfish tree. with
plankton-eating whale shark, a regular sight
unimpressed. It swam over a jut of sand and we
giant tortoises moping about many of the
around the inner islands between august
islands along with the world’s smallest frog,
and november. the shark research institute
the only flightless bird of the indian ocean
runs a whale shark monitoring Program.
could tell it weighed about 50 pounds. Evidently tiring of all this foolishness, the GT zeroed-in on the
and a variety of other unusual species, the
romantics will not want to miss the vallee
nearest coral head and cut me off.The whole event
seychelles represents an exciting destination
de mai, which some claim to be the original
probably lasted less than two minutes, but the reruns
for
site of the garden of eden. many island-
in my head make it seem longer.
those
into
observing
and
nature
style weddings and honeymoons take place
photography. marine life around the islands can only be
here due to the secret coves, midnight beach
Needless to say, once hooked, a GT will make
described as amazing, with more than 1,000
strolls and traditional french-creole cuisine.
several power runs to the nearest coral formation and
species of fish. although coral bleaching in
[note: vallee is spelled with an accent mark
1998 damaged most reefs, great diving and
over the first “e”]
you must clamp down to try to stop them. Usually
snorkeling opportunities abound. a number
on the main island of mahé, you can
of world-recognized dive sites include the
stroll through lots of craft shops, quaint
rod shatters, but every once in a while the angler
ennerdale wreck and Brissare rocks as well
markets and visit plantation estates. Popular
actually lands one. I’ve never encountered a more
as the areas around marianne, the sisters,
tourist choices include six museums, a
aride and other islands. dive trips vary from
botanical garden, a variety of nature walks
brief snorkel excursions to live-aboard dive
and various historical monuments.
either the mono gets cut on the coral head or the
aggressive fish, and they possess uncanny eyesight. They’ll charge a fly from 50 feet away, and one actually bit off the end of my fly rod when I left it in the water at the end of the retrieve. Accordingly, we
boats. events throughout the year include fishing tournaments, art festivals and sailing
for more details, go to: www.seychelles.travel/en/home/index.php.
spent only an hour or so each day catching bonefish and the rest of the time mostly chasing GTs.
flats fashions & gear Each day on the Sea Pearl began with the anglers being shuttled to the flats in the schooner’s panga-style skiffs.There were usually three anglers per guide and you’d spend the whole day hiking up and down the most expansive flats imaginable. You need a backpack to carry water and gear because until lunch there were no rest stops or shade. A good pair of wading boots fends off any creepy things with teeth, fangs and claws. Due to the Seychelles being near the equator, UV protective clothing, waterproof sunscreen and face masks rank as essential. DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
Seychelles Sojourn A camera should be waterproof and not merely
Ü
Where to toss the Bags
I understand that GT fishing there
water resistant.
is unmatched anywhere the world with
the outstanding fishing in the
You need a 9-weight rod for the bonefish,
Flycastaway’s 10 anglers averaging over 300 GTs
seychelles can largely be attributed
triggers and other species, and 15-pound
a week and catches up to 100 pounds. The area
fluorocarbon leaders and typical bonefish flies
– three times the size of the Farquhar Group
do fine. For GTs, go with a 12-weight, an
– also holds double-digit-size bones and huge
ultra-heavy tippet as mentioned and a streamer
milkfish. I’ve heard more stories coming out of
pattern. Also, when the tide starts back in around
Cosmoledo than anywhere else in the world
to the fact that the islands give life to the adage: “you can’t get there from here.” i flew to Paris on american airlines and then on to mahé on air
Providence, it stirs up little clumps of algae that
about shattered rods, shredded fly lines and
seychelles. each flight lasted about 10
drift with the current. Often following the algae
crushed egos.
hours and the schedules encourage
will be milkfish, which look like a cross between
a layover in Paris (or london if you
a mullet, bonefish and ladyfish. Flies imitating
select that route).
algae get the job done, and since the fish get up
once in mahé, it’s necessary to spend at least one night. i stayed at the casuarina Beach hotel before flying to Providence atoll, and at the wharf hotel on the way back from
I can’t wait to go.
other notes of interest About the Seychelles islands:
to 50 pounds and fight like gorillas, carry a 10weight and 20-pound fluorocarbon leaders if targeting them.
• Official Name: Republic of Seychelles
Everything turned out great on my trip,
• Government: A republic, gaining independence
including the incredible fishing, excellent food
from the United Kingdom in 1976
aboard the Sea Pearl and quality of guides.
• Capital:Victoria on Mahé Island
Providence. i found the casuarina to
I can only characterize the lifestyle of the
be rustic and a third of the wharf’s
Seychelles people as happy, friendly, unhurried
• Area: 451 square kilometers or 176 square miles
rate, but i could fish right off the
and perfectly content on their islands of paradise,
• Religion: Mostly Roman Catholic with some
beach and caught two bonefish and a
feeling free from the pressures of the outside
Anglican
small permit on fly. the wharf, modern
world.
• Languages: English, French, Creole
While I enjoyed Providence Atoll, next
and comfortable, sports a marina with offshore fishing for marlin, sailfish, wahoo, tuna and other big-game
• Population: 81,000
• Currency: Seychellois rupee (6.15 = $1US)
time I’ll try Cosmoledo Atoll in the Aldabra Group of islands.
species, plus diving charters and glass-
For additional facts visit: www.state.gov/p/af/ci/se/
SE YCHE LLE S 0
bottom boat tours. located about 10
0
Bird I.
10 0 mi
Denis
Praslin
100 km
Silhouette
minutes from the airport, both hotels
Amirante Isles
provide easy access to victoria’s many
ai
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Santa Elena Bay La Libertad
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Da
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Guayaquil
Gulf of Cuenca GuayaquilÎles Glorieuses
Machala (France)
R.
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
ta
za
R
Farquhar. Group
1998 National © Zamora a~
Mar
MADAGASCAR
Macas
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n
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world
traveler,
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u a r i c o R.
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An IGFA record holder
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ECUADOR
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week from Paris. flycastaway (www. my
amba
Manta Chone Bay Manta Portoviejo
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air seychelles offers bi-weekly
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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Big gaMe in the not even charles darwin envisioned future travelers visiting these south american islands for Billfish rather than giant tortoises.
galapagos written By
W
M a r s h a b i e r M a n
e met Allan Starr at the pier each
this occasion he made sure we could snap plenty
morning before the hotel restaurant
of boat-side images before the striped marlin
opened to offer coffee to early risers. But that’s
swam away.
the sacrifice if you want to make the long runs
We fished lures with hooks on the riggers
from San Cristóbal in the Galapagos Islands as
and hookless lures short so we could utilize
San Cristóbal represents the nearest landmass to
switch baits if a fish came close to the boat.
the best marlin fishing grounds. Our headings
Dead bait isn’t readily available hereabouts and
changed daily, which varied the arrival times
you won’t find a bait and tackle shop locally, so
from one-and-a-half to nearly three hours.
Starr and his mates started gathering ballyhoo a
All the fishing signs appeared to be
week before we arrived. The ballyhoo made my
favorable: Clean water, good color and lots of
eyes pop out – they’re the biggest I’ve ever seen,
marine life. Right off the bat, a striped marlin
about the size of a Spanish mackerel.
just shy of 200 pounds took a hookless lure on a short rigger. We dropped back a horse ballyhoo
West of the Mainland
and the marlin smelled it, lit up like a Las Vegas
©scottKerrigan.com
captions
marquee, and switched right to it. I set the hook
I traveled to the Galapagos Islands – more
on my 50-pound standup tackle and the jousting
commonly simply called the Galapagos – with
began. The fish bolted above the surface, shaking
husband Lenny and our friend Dr. David
its head furiously. After more jumps and a series
Tenzel of Hollywood, Florida. We’d been
of greyhounding leaps perpendicular to the stern
planning a trip to a new fishing destination
of the boat, I finally started to gain line.
for us all that would require being gone less
Starr masterfully maneuvered the boat,
than a week, wouldn’t cost an arm and a leg,
and told the crew to wait until his signal before
and offers good shots at marlin. We chose the
releasing the fish. As the marlin neared the boat,
Galapagos Islands, which lie about 600 miles
my mind flashed to some 30 years ago when
west of Ecuador in the Pacific Ocean. Being
I’d fought a blue marlin in the Bahamas with
cut off from the South America mainland for
Starr also on the bridge that day. After the crew
many thousands of years, the islands’ wildlife
immediately released it, I joked that the only
served as the basis for the famed British
pictures of that fight would be little specks on the
naturalist Charles Darwin’s theory of Natural
horizon. Perhaps he recalled that as well, since on
Selection.
big game in the galapagos Our first travel day began at 4 a.m. as we headed for Miami International Airport, and we felt rather naked. Our passion involves marlin fishing on stand-up tackle, a technique Lenny and I developed over many years, and we therefore always traveled with lots of gear. Many of our trips involve visits to extremely remote locations with questionable tackle, so we’ve learned it’s best to come prepared. However, this would be our first-ever fishing excursion with no rods, reels, bait or hooks – just t-shirts, shorts and camera – because we knew Starr and felt confident he’d be well provisioned. My flight experiences aren’t the same as they used to be since having a knee replaced last year. Turning me into a somewhat bionic woman, all I need to do these days to get frisked is head to the nearest airport where I set off the metal detectors. Other than that inconvenience, it entails two days of travel from Miami to the island of San Cristóbal – the easternmost island in the Galapagos – due to an evening’s stopover in Guayaquil, Ecuador. The next day, our AeroGal 727 jet dropped onto the runway in San Cristóbal and taxied to the small airport terminal. After each of us paid the $100 park entry fee, we collected our luggage and were greeted by our old friend Allan Starr. A short taxi ride deposited us at the Miconia
from the Principal Pier on the waterfront. when a marlin goes airborne, the angler and crew light up as well.
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
©scottKerrigan.com
Hotel located on Av. Charles Darwin across
big game in the galapagos
stripes and Blues
above the surface and approached a lure.
when utilizing stand-up tackle on big fish.
“Hey, that’s no stripe,” Lenny added.
Fortunately for us, an exper ienced captain
The rigger snapped, the line tightened and
controlled the boat, enabling us to fight
After releasing the striped marlin on
David bent the rod as monofilament sizzled off
the fish over the side instead of the ster n.
the first day, three other marlin appeared in
the reel and zipped through the rod guides. The
Starr’s crew consisted of Julio and Tati,
the lure spread – one of them particularly
hot little blue marlin treated us to a beautiful show,
both young Galapagonians enthusiastic
huge – but they lacked aggression and
with wild leaps and water-foaming greyhounds.
about fishing.
wouldn’t eat. The next morning we ran
We soon released it, marking David’s first blue,
On our third and last fishing day, we
60 miles from San Cristóbal, leaving the
and we all felt really happy for him everyone’s
headed to another bank off San Cr istóbal.
waters designated as national park, and
first blue marlin is something special.
The water here looked to be the best so
inflatables to yachts fill the scene in front of the principal pier in san cristóbal.
far: deep blue and slick calm, with the only
©marsha Bierman
r ipples caused by our approach against the fished in the proximity of two commercial
We fished aboard the Blue, a 32-foot
currents that converge around the islands.
longliners. We saw them boat two striped
custom boat built in Ecuador that fits all
Not only did we catch and release two
marlin, making us all wince a bit.
the legal requirements. While it will never
striped marlin with our switching technique
At mid-afternoon, Lenny suddenly
be mistaken for a Rybovich or Merritt
from lures to ballyhoo, we also wrestled with
stood up, his eyes riveted to the surface
in either style or finish work, it certainly
over a half-dozen hard-pulling yellowfin
of the deep-blue water and our spread of
proved adequate for the task at hand. Twin
tunas – again, all on stand-up gear. As with
lures. A few moments later he excitedly
Yamaha outboard engines provided the
the blue marlin, David notched another
hollered “left rigger” as a marlin bill jutted
power, and outboards can be a real challenge
first with his capture of a yellowfin.
DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
big game in the galapagos Ü Where to toss the Bags american airlines and lan fly from various locations in the u.s. to
guayaquil,
ecuador,
the
main
stepping-off point for the galapagos. we stayed at the sheraton four Points in guayaquil, located across the street
other popular activities include diving,
kayaking,
surfing,
sailing
and bird watching. huge numbers of tourists arrive to see the giant tortoises, made famous by charles
from a large mall. the nearby hilton
darwin’s
colon appeared to be a finer hotel;
islands in the early 19th century. we
both offer casinos.
found an atm that usually worked at
aerogal provides direct flights from
guayaquil
to
san
cristóbal
island, the capital of the galapagos islands. you must pay an entrance fee of $100 (cash) per person upon entry. most services such as telephone calls
visit
to
the
galapagos
the el Banco de Pacifico in Puerto ayora, which accepts only cirrus and mastercard. the day of our departure from san cristóbal, we spent a little time souvenir shopping for t-shirts
Starr finally decided to pull in our baits and move to get away from the aggressive
and the internet come at a higher cost
and critter carvings for friends back
tunas, as we remained intent on finding more
than on the mainland, but we found
home at shops on av. charles darwin
marlin. This we accomplished, possibly due
restaurants surprisingly inexpensive
and at the san cristóbal airport.
to our being present during a full-moon
and the seafood outstanding.
the prices for the same t-shirt and
Kathy espinel, the gracious coowner of the miconia hotel (www. micronia.com)
in
san
cristóbal,
settled us into our rooms and offered to spend the balance of the afternoon showing us around the island. the miconia offers air-conditioned rooms with cable tv, a pool, jacuzzi, internet
phase. The debate over the effect of moon phases on species – and billfish in particular
other items varied greatly from one
– never seems to end in agreement. In St.
vendor to another, and david’s ability
Thomas, we’ve found a stronger correlation
to communicate fluently in spanish
than most places, but I sometimes wonder
certainly netted much better deals than my finger gesturing. you can definitely negotiate better prices if
we made arrangements for our south
fishing expeditions. Three charter boats including the Blue
fishing
operated by Ecuadorians. The Blue’s owner asked Captain Allan Starr to assist him in
filled with weights, exercise bikes,
trip
(www.
instructing the Artesian crewmembers. The
treadmills, mats and such. espinel
southfishing.com) in miami, florida.
other two charter boats appeared to be similar
explained that she’s into physical
for more information
to the Blue, but we decided to fish with Starr
fitness and teaches aerobics classes,
galapagos
plus there’s a masseuse available.
galapagos-islands.net.
through
anglers mainly target full moons for their
operate out of San Cristóbal, all owned and
you’re a good bargainer.
access and a large fitness studio
if theories aren’t self-fulfilling when many
islands,
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
about visit
the www.
due to our favorable experiences with him. We really enjoyed hanging out again with Starr. His repertoire of stories brought back DestinationFish.travel
big game in the galapagos Ü Bring your camera when arriving at the miconia hotel, i asked Kathy espinel if she could arrange for us to view sea lions. i soon realized why she smiled: a special trip is unnecessary, as sea lions could be found literally everywhere around san cristóbal. the animals make a cornucopia of noises that sounds like snorting, barking, braying and belching. i would imagine the locals find them a nuisance as they just plop themselves down any ol’ place, including park benches, sidewalks, gang planks and any boat in the harbor they can hoist themselves aboard. they’re quite adorable to behold, particularly the babies. sea lions, less than graceful on land, the miconia hotel’s second-story restaurant overlooks the waterfront
become the picture of agility in the water.
as well as (below) a friendly sea lion.
i’ve never fished anywhere where sea lions
While we came for the marlin fishing, the
the Bahamas, any many names of old friends
beauty and serenity of the Galapagos Islands
and crew members surfaced. Good fortune
gripped us. It’s a refreshing innocence to be
certainly smiled our way with the calm sea
purposely out of touch with the troubles and
conditions, and we came away with not only
travails of the rest of the world. The peace
releases of striped marlin but also a blue, plus
and solitude that washed over us cannot be
the bonus of yellowfin tuna. Lenny, David
bottled, and I’d highly recommend coming to
and I all considered our trip a success.
this special corner of the world.
became common sights while trolling offshore. we came upon them rafted up together, lying on their backs with all flippers and noses pointed toward the sun. Between the large numbers of sea lions, porpoises and schools of manta rays often glimpsed in the distance, it causes the casual angler to imagine countless sightings of billfish.
©marsha Bierman (2)
memories of times spent fishing together in
DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
resort rePort
w h e r e a dv e n t u r e and l u x u ry m e e t Each issue of Destination Fish will bring you news of resort openings, renovations, marinas, up-and-coming lodges and camps from all corners of the world. Only web site addresses are provided because each site provides all the specific contact details necessary.
hotel Bora Bora – French polynesia
By KELLY BRADEN
barrier reef offer a variety of colorful marine life. Walkways link the 54
Amanresort’s Hotel Bora Bora captures the beauty and mystique
Polynesian bungalows and farés (Tahitian for “home”) to tennis courts,
of French Polynesia. It sits on the edge of a tropical lagoon beneath the
a boutique, bars and lounges. The rooms feature rattan and bamboo,
magnificent volcanic peaks of Mount Otemanu. Three beaches and a
Tasmanian oak floors, red-cedar walls, cast-iron tubs, overhead fans, CD players and a collection of Polynesian art. Musicians and dancers provide Polynesian entertainment. Overwater bungalows provide a two-tiered sundeck with
steps
directly
leading
into
the
lagoon. A 50-foot sportfishing
catamaran
features
full-day
or
half-day
trips
to
neighboring
islands.
Typical catches range from tuna and wahoo to marlin and mahimahi. You can also fish from Tahitian sailing canoes or right off the beach. Other activities include diving, sailing cruises,
barrier
excursions,
reef beach
picnics, cycling, and jeep and hiking trips.
For more information visit: www.amanresorts.com/bora/home.htm cont. on pg. xx
0
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
salmon
halibut
flyouts
bear viewing
RON FAY’S
clockwise from top left: ©moose creek lodge, ©stan cunningham, ©moose creek lodge, ©stan cunningham (6)
MOOSE
rainbow trout
sockeye bank fishing
glacier viewing
seafood dinner cruises
LODGE
CREEK
ALASKA
professional guide service on the kenai river, alaska
fishing and lodging packages • huge country breakfast each morning • kenai river bank fishing access drift & power boats • 29’ halibut boats (accommodates 6) • delux cabin accommodations • daily fishing charters kasilof & kenai river charters • seaward saltwater charters • walk-ons welcome
p: 888.560.3380 DestinationFish.travel
e: fish@moosecreek.com
34575 keystone drive
w:
www.moosecreek.com
• DESTINATION soldotna,FISH: alaska 99669 The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe
Fall 2007
1
resort rePort
the K Club - ireland Ireland’s K Club in Kildare offers a five-star hotel just 40 minutes from the international airport and capital city of Dublin. Opulent, classical surroundings reflect elements of Ireland’s history. Two 18-hole championship golf courses designed by Arnold Palmer, a luxury spa, the best of Irish cuisine and an idyllic river setting complete the Irish experience. With two miles of the River Liffey and a natural stock of wild
brown trout up to seven pounds, you’ll enjoy superb flyfishing. The river produces bountiful fly hatches that keep trout populations healthy, especially during the mayfly period of May to July. For 55 years, Estate Manager Sean McManmon, seldom seen without his Sherlock Holmes-style pipe, has enjoyed a passion for fishing. He’s also taken on the role of gillie (fishing guide) for VIPs such as George H. Bush, Tiger Woods and model Jerry Hall.
For more information visit: www.kclub.com
Musha Cay, Bahamas A private island retreat with pink-sand beaches only partly tells the story of exclusive Musha Cay. Owned by magician David Copperfield, guests luxuriate in colonialstyle villas, dine casually or in style and let the stress float away in the turquoise waters. Other options include an ocean-side pool, lighted tennis court, beachside fitness center, massage rooms, and all the watersports plus snorkeling and scuba diving. The five residences accommodate up to 24 guests, each with its own private beach. Weekly rates go up to $300,000.
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
cont. on pg. xx DestinationFish.travel
WE COULDN’T IMPROVE THE KEY WEST SUNSETS, SO WE IMPROVED THE VANTAGE POINT. Introducing a newly transformed oasis just steps away from Mallory Square. From the refreshing tropical-modern lobby to the infinity-edge soaking tubs in the spa, Hyatt Key West brings a new level of style to the island. Guestrooms have all the latest amenities, including the Hyatt Grand Bed and spa-like bathrooms with walk-in rain showers. And the new poolside bar, Blue Mojito, situated directly on the Gulf of Mexico, boasts an incomparable vantage point. At the end of the day, there’s nothing like it. Through June 30, 2008 when you request offer code FISH, you’ll receive a complimentary one category room type upgrade based on availability at time of arrival. Feel the Hyatt Touch.® For more information, contact your travel agent, call 800 55 HYATT or visit keywest.hyatt.com. TM
Offer valid through June 30, 2008 at Hyatt Key West Resort and Marina. All hotel reservations are subject to availability and must be made in advance using offer code FISH. Offer is not valid with groups/conventions and may not be combined with other promotional offers. Complimentary room type upgrade is based upon availability at time of arrival. Promotional blackout periods may be in effect during certain time periods, and normal arrival/departure restrictions apply. Hyatt reserves the right to alter or withdraw this program at any time without notice. HYATT names, designs and DestinationFish.travel DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007 related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2007 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
h e at h e r r a M s ay a n D D e n n i s r i c h a r D s o n
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
©dennis richardson
written By
new zealand’s new hot spot
bay of plenty Kiwi anglers finally bring to light another fishery that’s yielding plenty of saltwater surprises
the beautiful northeast coast of new zealand’s north island.
DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
©Bob McCree
new zealand ’ s new hot spot
I
t’s early morning, even before the sun’s rays caress
the waters of Pilot Bay in Tauranga Harbor on
the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island. Our charter vessel moves toward the harbor entrance, passing beneath Mauao, an imposing lava dome that stands sentinel at the tip of a narrow spit of land separating the harbor from the Pacific Ocean. Captain Russ Hawkins, the owner of Fat Boy Charters, maneuvers the boat as only one can who’s fished the area for over 30 years. We soon cruise past the statue of Tangaroa, the Maori God of the Sea, and ease our way into open water. A shower of sunlight breaks the cloud cover, spotlighting an area of ocean about 20 miles offshore called Astrolabe Reef. Hawkins points that way, saying it’s near our destination. The air of anticipation on board noticeably increases because New Zealand anglers coming here immediately conjure visions of record-breaking southern yellowtail kingfish, yellowfin tuna, hefty striped marlin and ample numbers of tasty snapper. Hawkins and mate Jim Gibson seem keen on lowering our expectations of the day ahead – a modest characteristic of Kiwis – but it doesn’t restrain our excitement. The sapphire waters become electric with schools of panicky baitfish fleeing predators below and dodging gannets
a long haul to the surface, but the reward is seeing
trying to pick them off from above. About two
three silvery tarakihi swirling in the blue waters
miles north of the Astrolabe, we stop at a spot to
– three on each rod, that is.
all prized for their delicate flavor. We quickly bait
-- and visitors -- love the inshore
and coastal fishing opportunities too.
an immediate staple of their diet due to the bountiful resources, including fish, crustaceans and shellfish.
bottom fish an area that consistently produces good catches of red snapper, trevally and tarakihi,
kiwis
Bay of Plenty
Indeed, according to Maori legend, the North Island represents a fish hauled from the sea, the South Island
up three-hook rigs with squid and skipjack tuna,
As New Zealanders – also known as Kiwis in
is the canoe of the fishermen and southernmost
and to the disappointment of a flock of hopeful
honor of our nation’s indigenous flightless bird – we
Stewart Island looks like its anchor stone.
sooty shearwaters, the morsels soon slither into the
revel in a love affair with the many rivers, lakes and
depths.
surrounding oceans that add to our country’s beauty
Within moments of the first lines hitting
and mystique. Our islands first became settled by the
bottom at 290 feet, two rod tips vibrate with a
Maori, who arrived from Polynesia in great ocean-
feisty mako sharks and the striped, black and blue
familiar tap, tap, tap, followed by a hearty tug. It’s
going canoes in the 13th century. Seafood became
marlin in deep waters.
60
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
Zane Grey first broke the news to the outside
world about New Zealand’s fabulous Bay of Islands in 1926, describing it as the “angler’s El Dorado.” Indeed, he wrote about massive broadbill swordfish,
DestinationFish.travel
new zealand ’ s new hot spot But Kiwis know of another fishing bonanza
promontories to rugged cliff faces and wide river
bring your camera
that they’ve more or less kept to themselves since
mouths.
Ü
1769. That’s when English explorer Captain James
The Bay of Plenty, divided into western
We decided on enjoying an overview
Cook claimed the country for England, and soon
and eastern sectors, sits at the edge of the North
of the scenic wonders of the Bay of Plenty.
waves of whalers, sealers and settlers arrived on the
Island volcanic zone and extends well beyond the
We therefore took to the sky in a M*A*S*H-
shores. Once again, the sea provided sustenance, and
shore. The seafloor and seascape is punctuated
style helicopter with Kiwi Kopters. We
Cook found the area around Tauranga to be so rich in
by volcanic islands, including Mayor Island,
natural resources that he named it the Bay of Plenty.
Whale Island and smoldering White Island. The
Today the name applies to the onshore province as
spectacular scenery complements the excellent
well as the broad, sweeping bay that stretches from
fishing, with consistent yields of good catches for
Bowentown Heads in the west to Cape Runaway in
both the table and the record books.
the east. The pristine waters wash onto a shoreline
bulldogs.
from golden surf beaches, tidal inlets and rocky
above the astrolabe reef.
bottom:
white
wat e r
over a string of beautiful beaches washed by sparkling waters. We also visited White Island for the awe-inspiring experience of walking amidst the swirling steam and hissing fumaroles of an active marine
b e l o w : b l a c k - b a n d e d ta r a k i h i f i g h t l i k e
that encompasses a range of coastal environments,
whirled around Mauao, up the harbor and
churns
volcano. For a really phenomenal aquatic experience, we joined a “Swim with the Dolphins” excursion through Dolphin Seafaris. With an estimated 40,000 dolphins in the Bay of Plenty, they’ll often accompany pleasure boats to sea. Within minutes of clearing the harbor, around 100 of the playful animals leaped joyfully around our catamaran. The gentle creatures seemed to welcome us into their domain, and we felt privileged to share the waters with them. New Zealand depicts itself as the adventure capital of the world, and Kiwis always look for new ways to delightfully terrorize thrill-seeking tourists – and themselves – with adrenaline-inducing contraptions and vehicles. The Blokart, a wind-powered go-cart, represents Tauranga’s contribution to the worldwide craze, and in fact it originated in New Zealand. Its small size and maneuverability makes for amazing fun and recreation for all age groups. In New Zealand, you’ll
©Dennis Richardson (2)
see Blokarts in many open spaces such as beaches, landfills, sports and recreation areas, farms, salt lakes, tennis courts and even on ice. DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
61
Ü
bring your camera cont.
Despite being total novices, we
©Tim Whittaker
new zealand ’ s new hot spot
raced Blokarts around a purpose-built track, howling with glee like kids. If a round or two of golf tops your list of extra-curricular activities, your New Zealand experience will not disappoint. Every country town boasts a challenging course, and even small cities have numerous layouts from which to choose. Best-known courses around Tauranga include the Tauranga Golf Club, the Omanu Golf Club and the Mt. Maunganui Golf Club. Most clubs welcome visitors, and we’ve found green fees to be very reasonable. With golf so popular here, it’s wise to telephone first to inquire about rental equipment and tee times. For more area golf information, visit www.bopgolf.co.nz or www.nzga.co.nz. After enjoying the great fishing and outdoors, we discovered a wonderful way to unwind at the Aqua Vida Spa. It utilizes pure, naturally heated thermal waters that run beneath the property, and offers a range of services from Vichy and Watsu water massages to traditional
native Gamesters
massages, beauty treatments and serene private pools.
tuna and squid certainly get the job done without delay. After a couple of snags and cutoffs on the
You probably aren’t familiar with tarakihi, also
jagged structures below, we re-rig. As soon as the
another
known in some regions by the quaint name of jackass
two lines hit bottom again, we’re hauling up another
thermal wonder, and it’s only about an
morwong. With a silvery body and a distinctive
seven tarakihi. Yes, seven, because one of us manages
hour’s drive from Tauranga. Here you’ll
black saddle behind the head, it’s found around the
to catch four fish on three hooks, a mystifying feat
encounter boiling mud pools, geysers
New Zealand coast as well as the Atlantic coast of
until we see that the fourth fish belongs to a tangled
and steaming lakes. We found it a great
South America and parts of southern Australia.
rig one of us broke off just minutes earlier.
place to experience traditional Maori
Reaching 10 pounds or more, they mainly inhabit
It’s become so easy catching tarakihi that
culture, entertainment and food. While
reef edges, feeding on worms, crustaceans, shellfish
we decide to move to the nearby Astrolabe Reef,
there, you might want to check out the
and mollusks. Captain Hawkins insists we offer a
eschewing the old adage about not leaving fish to
many lakes for a spot of trout fishing.
delicacy uncommon to them, and indeed the cut
find fish.
Rotorua
62
represents
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
new zealand ’ s new hot spot With the tide dropping, white
Even more angler-friendly than
water curls around the ragged reef
tarakihi, we discovered that kahawai
tip. Below water, steep drop-offs
could be taken using almost any kind
and shallow plateaus make a perfect
of bait, lure or technique. However,
environment for a huge variety
their fighting ability ranks high, and it
of species. As we circle, Hawkins
amazed us to battle a kahawai and end
keeps a wary eye on his navigational
up seeing a fish much smaller than
equipment. Off to starboard, a dark
expected. We began trolling with
shadow reveals itself briefly to be a 10-
the same gear used for tarakihi, but
foot hammerhead shark which soon
to make it more sporting Hawkins
sinks out of our sight behind the reef.
switched from bait to hand-made,
Kahawai, our primary target at
skirted lures that he often uses as
Astrolabe Reef, can only be found in
teasers for big-game fish.
New Zealand and parts of southern
Bang! A sleek torpedo hits one
Australia. The average specimen runs
of the lures, the reel drag surges and
4 to 8 pounds, and although Kiwis admire dueling with big-ticket sport fish, many feel that pound for pound,
the rod tip bends seaward. After a fast dash, the kahawai makes a long downward run, suddenly turns on a dime and races upward, breaks the
kahawai put up one of the best fish
surface and vigorously jackknifes in
fights in the world. They’re also a
the air. All within the same minute,
favorite meal of huge yellowtail
the line goes from taut to slack and
kingfish, which inhabit the waters of
back again half a dozen times until
northern New Zealand year-round.
the fish dives again, still running
The Bay of Plenty yields recordbreaking yellowtails up to 115 pounds, and the all-tackle women’s world
deep and strong. These aggressive fish never give up. Even when you reel a kahawai close to the boat, they continue to dart down and away,
record taken here stands as a 103-
demanding the skill and patience
pound beauty landed at the Astrolabe.
usually required for much bigger
Jim Gibson landed a 251-pound
species. Trolling
striped marlin while fishing the Astrolabe Reef during a tournament in From top to bottom: ©Fay Looney, ©Ian Trafford
2004. Even so, the fish came in second in that division, but Hawkins and Gibson
yields
four
more
kahawai, but when we spy a big school feeding on the surface, we switch to lighter rods with threadline reels and chrome spinners.
know that this area produces a good
Captain Hawkins edges in close to
percentage of winning tournament
the shoal, and we cast right into the
fish across all species.
seething mass.
opposite page and right: since the 13th century, polynesian and
maori traditions still influence the culture.
DestinationFish.travel
Ü
where to toss the bags
Air New Zealand provides direct flights to
the BiG Guns
Auckland from Los Angeles and San Francisco. You can also get here from points in the US via
the Cook Islands, Fiji, Samoa, Tahiti and other
warm summer currents bring big-game fish like
exotic stopping-off locations.
marlin and tuna closer to the coast. The season runs
Tauranga is a short flight from Auckland,
December to May, with February to April regarded as
but it’s just as convenient to hire a rental car att
the most productive months.
the airport, but ensure you reserve a vehicle
While fishing can be good any time of year,
Catches made around Mayor Island become
in advance. The drive takes two hours, and
regular entries in the New Zealand record books.
remember – drive on the left. Buses also shuttle
Black, blue and striped marlin can all arise in a trolling
between Auckland airport and Tauranga.
spread in New Zealand waters, but striped marlin
You’ll really appreciate Mount Maunganui, a seaside resort at the base of Mauao. Also
are by far the most prevalent. Sizes for striped marlin
called simply the Mount, it’s linked to Tauranga
average 175 to 260 pounds, with the New Zealand
by harbor bridges and offers a range of accommodations. Charter boats operate
and world all-tackle record standing at 494 pounds. A
many excellent resorts provide modern
20-year ban on commercial marlin fishing within the
from here, and those originating in Tauranga
will pull into the Mount to collect clients.
Recommended accommodations include:
kahawai after kahawai smash onto the spinners
release practice is normal for recreational anglers.
at speed, showing us why these fighters rate at
The Bay of Plenty reigns supreme across the
the top as sport on light tackle or fly gear.
record classes when it comes to yellowfin tuna. Like
The drama continues unabated, resulting
bluefin, bigeye and albacore, yellowfin – voracious
the sweeping views over the countryside can
in non-stop fish fights. Back into the water
predators that roam waters throughout the North Island
only be described as breathtaking. The retreat
goes any undersize fish or species that can’t rival
– dominate the crosshairs of many anglers wishing to
offers luxurious rooms, and guests enjoy full
the dinner-table flavor of red snapper, trevally
match skills against fish upwards of 200 pounds. When
use of attractive communal areas.
or tarakihi. The iced fish bin soon enough
we hear tales of baitfish being herded into pulsating
• Sebel Trinity Wharf Hotel, Tauranga (www.
contains plenty to feed family and a couple of
meatballs by a school of tuna, it’s enough to make us
mirvachotels.com) – This new over-the-water
friends that night for dinner. We finally chug
hotel benefits from an excellent location and
leave home and get our lines back in the water.
toward the familiar Mauao landmark, guiding
In addition to the wise conservation ethic of
co.nz) – A high-end boutique lodge renowned for personalized service that caters to every whim. Located in the hills behind Tauranga,
stylish rooms. It’s a short walk to the fish market, pier and inner-city shops and cafes. • Beaumont Apartments, Mount Maunganui
The action is immediate and exhilarating, as
one-
or
taking only what will be eaten within a
NEW ZEALAND 0 0
Whangarei
Waitemata Auckland Manukau Hamilton Tauranga Tokoroa Rotorua
most species. For the most part, our fisheries remain well-managed and closely policed, and more often than not you’ll be approached by inspectors from the government’s Ministry of Fisheries for a look-see of your catch. I’m lucky to be Kiwi and able to readily access the Bay of Plenty when the mood hits. But for those venturing from afar to experience fantastic fishing and amazing beauty, you won’t be let down – ask anyone who’s been here.
Taupo
New Plymouth
modernized refurbishing, and offer spectacular
Gisborne
ECUADOR
Wanganui Napier Tasman San Lorenzo COLOMBIA Hastings Cook 0 70 mi Esmeraldas Sea Strait Palmerston North 70 km 0 Tulcán Lower Hutt ab aNelson Rosa Zárate mba R . Ibarra Wellington Westport Ag Santo Domingo Blenheim u a r i c o R. de los Colorados cQuito Kaikoura Manta Greymouth N Chone
c
Gu
views.
ai
newzealand.com/travel for additional sources
Mt. Cook Santa 12,316 ft South Island Elena (3,754 m) Bay Queenstown
La Libertad
Te Anau Gulf of
Guayaquil
Christchurch Tena
Ashburton Riobamba Babahoyo Timaru
Guayaquil Oamaru Macas Alexandra Azogues Cuenca Dunedin
Invercargill Machala
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
Loja
Zamora
a~
.
Pa
s t a Río Tigre za R.
ra
ra
yR . Pacific Ocean Tig
re
R.
© 1998 National Geographic Society PERU
R.
nz/default.htm.
oR
Cononaco
Sa nt iag o
Stewart Island
ap
Latacunga
Ambato
© 2001 National Geographic Society
Ocean
Balzar
Cu
Pacific
ule
Bay Manta Portoviejo
Da
visit www.bayofplentynz.co.nz. Visit www.
R.
ll
For details on accommodations for the Bay of Plenty plus activities and charters,
64
New Zealand size-and-bag limits for
North Island
stay rental. Most apartments underwent a
management rules, go to www.fish.govt.nz/en-
Great Barrier I.
150 km
apartments seem perfect for short or long-
up-to-date data on New Zealand fisheries and
day or two, we stay well under the strict
Kaitaia
150 mi
two-bedroom
of information about the country. To obtain
marlin fishery in excellent health, and the tag-and-
us home.
(www.beaumontapartments.co.nz) – Secure, fully-equipped
country’s 200-kilometer (124 mile) zone keeps the
Mar
• Ridge Country Retreat, Welcome Bay (www.rcr.
amenities in tauranga.
n¥o
n
DestinationFish.travel
©Dennis Richardson
new zealand ’ s new hot spot
new zealand ’ s new hot spot terr itor ial claim in Antarctica). About
• Currency: New Zealand Dollar (1NZD
1,250 miles from Australia, its closest
= .76USD)
neighbours are New Caledonia, Fiji and
• Language: Mostly English, with native
Tonga.
Maori spoken as well as New Zealand sign
• Official Name: New Zealand, and also The
• Terrain: Huge forests, mountain ranges,
language
Realm of New Zealand
lowland bays and beaches, many islands
• Capital: Wellington; Auckland remains the
• Climate: Mild and temperate, rarely
largest city
falling below 32 degrees or r ising above
• Government: Parliamentary democracy; Queen
86 degrees. While the west coast of the
Dennis Richardson grew up fishing the sun-
Elizabeth II honored as head of state, but self-
South Island is often extremely wet, the
drenched shores of Western Australia, bagging
governing as a constitutional monarchy since
MacKenzie Basin of inland Canterbury
two state surfcasting records in the process.
full independence from the United Kingdom in
exper iences semi-ar id climate and it’s
Meanwhile, Heather Ramsay enjoyed family
1947
subtropical in the Northland.
fishing expeditions on the black volcanic sands on
• Geography: Noted for its geographic isolation
• Size: 268,680 square meters, or 103,738
the west coast of New Zealand’s North Island.
in the southwestern Pacific Ocean, the country is
square miles
Their paths crossed in London some 20 years ago,
comprised of two large islands (North and South
• Population: 4,100,000
and since then they’ve teamed up to photograph
islands, with the South the largest) and numerous
• Religion: Mostly Chr istianity, although
and write about dozens of locations around the
smaller islands. It also includes the Cook Islands,
about one third maintain no religious
globe from their current base in New Plymouth,
Niue, Tokelau and the Ross Dependency (a
affiliation
New Zealand. •
Other Notes of Interest About New Zealand
For more details, visit the U.S. State Department’s site: www.state.gov/p/eap/ci/nz/
DestinationFish.travel
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tic-tock.com
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12900 Preston Road, Suite 1010 • Dallas TX 75230
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe972-392-7676 Fall 2007 65 (800) TIC-TOCK (842-8625) • Local:
BEST OF THE BEST cuisine. Those gracing the arcades of the Le Grand Véfour over the centuries include Louis XV and E a c h i s s u e, D e s t i n a t i o n F i s h w i l l s e l e c t a c a t e g o r y r e l a t i n g t o f i s h i n g, t ra ve l a n d t h e o u t d o o r s, a n d w e ’ l l p r e s e n t o u r c h o i c e s a s t h e “ B e s t o f t h e B e s t . ”
culinary excellence around the world
Victor Hugo. For the past decade, however, Chef Guy Martin has based his courses and entrees on recipes from the French Alps, bringing originality to French classics such as Roulade de Saumon et de Saint-Nectaire au Coulis de Fenouil, and Langoustines Pimentées à la Nougatine d’ail doux. Can’t pronounce them? Who cares – c’est magnifique. relaischateaux.com/vefour
T H E B O AT H O U S E W I N E & G R I L L ,
dining occasion. Quay has been awarded three chef’s
P H U K E T, T H A I L A N D
hats by the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food
So legendary is the Thai and Western cuisine
Guide five years running, one of only 2 restaurants
at the Boathouse that the inn where it resides offers
in Sydney to do so, and also Restaurant of the Year
popular holiday packages for visitors who wish to
in 2003 and 2005.
quay.com.au
come and take lessons from French-trained Master Chef Tummanoon. No kidding. It’s beachfront terrace and stylish but simple interior provides amazing dinners directly on Kata Beach and sunset views. If you’re in the mood for the works, the Phuket lobster is one of the most expensive dishes on the menu, but worth every baht (Thai currency). The mix of French, Thai and Western cuisine creates something at once unique and memorable, with over 700 wine labels to choose from as well. C H E F M AV R O , O ’ A H U , H A W A I I
boathousephuket.com
Q U A Y, S Y D N E Y, A U S T R A L I A
our list. Chef George Mavrothalassitis, who took
You might not think Sydney represents a
two hotel restaurants to the top of the ranks before
gourmet paradise, but that thought drifts off with
founding this James Beard Award-winning dinner
the tide when you get a table at the Quay. With
house, takes care to draw out the truest and most
possibly the loveliest view in town – the Sydney
concentrated flavors, to track down the freshest fish
Harbor Bridge to the right and famed Opera House
LE GRAND VéFOUR, PARIS, FRANCE
and create one-of-a-kind wine pairings that might
to the left – the food is worthy of the special setting.
Is it possible to leave out Paris in aTop 10 list of
strike others as mad. Portions of the menu change
Executive Chef Peter Gilmore’s food philosophy is
anything dealing with food? Mais non! Landlocked
to keep you coming back for new surprises, but
based in the exploration of the texture of food as
or not, step inside and you’ll appreciate a beautiful
favorites remain. Etched-glass windows screen the
well as the harmony of flavor, making this a special
decor and a history-infused citadel of classic French
bustling street scene, keeping you mellow and serene
66
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
From left to right: ©Quay, ©Chef Mavro
Not surprising, a restaurant in Hawaii makes
BEST OF THE BEST with the starched white tablecloths, fresh flowers,
Cod Saikyo Yaki, Toro Tartar with Caviar, Sashimi
D O F O R N I , V E N I C E , I T A LY
wood floors and contemporary island art.
Salad with Matsuhisa Dressing, and Rock Shrimp
Seafood and fish from the Adriatic Sea inspire
Tempura in a creamy, spicy sauce. Get a table that
the ancient traditions of Italian and Venetian cuisine.
overlooks Hong Kong’s always-busy Victoria Harbour
The Do Forni recipes feature seasonal vegetables and
C, VANCOUVER, CANADA
while inside admire features that include an undulating
soft sauces, giving each entree a special interpretation.
Their name doesn’t waste ink on letterheads,
sea urchin ceiling, bamboo-embedded terrazzo walls
You can choose one of two rooms: rustic and elegant
but you won’t go wanting for quantity or quality
and the bar’s cascade of black river stones that frame
furniture reminiscent of an ancient Venetian tavern
a glistening imagery of cherry
or the “Orient Express” with a theme of the famous
blossoms.
train connecting Venice to Istanbul and Paris. Eligio
hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com
Paties manages a wine cellar offering guests the most
chefmavro.com/
sought-after Italian wines along with superb French VOX RestauRant,
wines and champagne. doforni.it
ReykjaVik, iceland Chef
at C. Here you find Executive Chef Robert Clark’s playground, and his talents are unmistakable when sampling various preparations of seafood and handpicked produce from specialty food producers across the province. Decor is simple yet with dramatic touches such as floor-to-ceiling windows that extend two stories. Watch sea kayakers and ferries in
Gíslason’s
Mul Yam means “Across the Sea” in Hebrew.
availability of seasonal products
The seafood fare is amazing, with seafood jetted in
and ingredients – nothing goes
from all over the world and served in a comfortable,
into the freezer – and you can
informal setting. The menu includes live lobsters from
depend upon gourmet cooking
Canada, oysters from Bretagne, fresh fish from New
no matter how busy things get. VOX Restaurant,
Zealand, wild berries from Provence and mushrooms
located in the Nordica Hotel, specializes in
from Tuscany, to name a few. The wine list doesn’t go
recreating comforting Icelandic flavors. For
for wont either, featuring a huge selection that totally
example, a foie gras covered in celery foam ends
completes the whole culinary experience.
up seriously reminiscent of traditional Icelandic lamb-and-vegetable
soup.
Fried
tempura
vegetables and a soy-based sauce provide a gentle counterpoint to a salmon fillet, and Arctic char is
entrees and desserts in one of the most charming
surrounded by mild foam that makes the fish look
cities in the world. crestaurant.com
like a life raft adrift on Icelandic seas. vox.is
CHINA While you might well expect a Chinese treatment of seafood from the NOBU in the Hotel InterContinental
M U L YA M , T E L AV I V, I S R A E L
menu selection changes due to
False Creek while enjoying truly world-class salads,
N O B U , H O N G K O N G ,
From top to bottom: ©C Restaurant, ©Nobu
Sigurður
mulyam.com GANH HAO, VUNG TAU, VIETNAM Serving seafood delights from a cool oceanside promontory, Ganh Hao’s choices run simple to extravagant – and always expertly prepared. The menu includes lobster with butter or tamarind, fried soft shell crabs, jumbo shrimp dishes, crabs steamed with beer, oysters and squid. If you savor whole fish dishes, you’ll really indulge with goby, snakehead fish and sea bass. A great favorite: the Ganh Hao Fish Salad that features
Hong Kong, instead it’s a Japanese
whitefish lightly sautéed in butter
theme that steals the show. Chef Nobu
with onions and peanut, served on
Matsuhisa’s namesake establishment
lettuce and eaten by wrapping it in
serves up signature dishes such as
a rice paper roll with coriander and
Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno, Black
basil leaves. ganhhao.com
DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
67
the edge of
intensity Step into a pair of waderS and battle baSS off the rockS of SoutheaSt ireland. W R I T T E N B Y H e n ry
68 DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
Gilbey
DestinationFish.travel
W
e met Allan Starr at the pier each morning
surface, shaking its head furiously. After more jumps
before the hotel restaurant opened to offer
and a series of greyhounding leaps perpendicular to
©Henry Gilbey
coffee to early risers. But that’s the sacrifice if you
DestinationFish.travel
the stern of the boat, I finally started to gain line.
want to make the long runs from San Cristobal in
Starr masterfully maneuvered the boat, and
the Galapagos Islands as San Cristobal represents
told the crew to wait until his signal before releasing
the nearest landmass to the best marlin fishing
the fish. As the marlin neared the boat, my mind
grounds. Our headings changed daily, which varied
flashed to some 30 years ago when I’d fought a blue
the arrival times from one-and-a-half to nearly three
marlin in the Bahamas with Starr also on the bridge
hours.
that day. After the crew immediately released it, I
All the fishing signs appeared to be favorable:
joked that the only pictures of that fight would be
Clean water, good color and lots of marine life. Right
little specks on the horizon. Perhaps he recalled that
off the bat, a striped marlin just shy of 200 pounds
as well, since on this occasion he made sure we
took a hookless lure on a short rigger. We dropped
could snap plenty of boat-side images before the
back a horse ballyhoo and the marlin smelled it, lit
striped marlin swam away.
up like a Las Vegas marquee, and switched right to
We fished lures with hooks on the riggers and
it. I set the hook on my 50-pound standup tackle
hookless lures short so we could utilize switch baits
and the jousting began. The fish bolted above the
if a fish came close to the boat.
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
69
will bring me back to normal.
caption
and you won’t find a bait and tackle shop locally,
A rapidly flooding tide seductively creeps
so Starr and his mates started gathering ballyhoo
around the rock upon which I’m perched,
of the gears upon my hooked fish is required to
a My arms shake with unrefined adrenaline
somewhat precariously I might add. Within easy
turn it toward me.
as I make that first cast out into the tumbling,
casting range I spy a number of inviting-looking
Nothing I know of in European sea fishing
foaming water in front of me. I’m a fisherman
rocky gullies where I know a bass or two should
beats that first, confirmed glimpse of the silver,
all my life, and still conditions like this manage
be hunting down unfortunate prey. It’s a matter of
shimmering flanks of a bass knifing toward
to reduce me to a quivering pulp of initial
weighing up just how long I can stay on “my” rock
outstretched hands. I work it to me and perform a
uselessness. I’m hoping that a few calming casts
before my waders become useless and I have to
careful unhooking of the lure and a quick, admiring
IRELAND 0 0
SCOTLAND (U.K.)
50 mi 50 km Letterkenny
NORTHERN IRELAND (U.K.)
Donegal Donegal Bay
Newport
Ennis
Killarney Kenmare
Le e R .
Bantry
Drogheda
nno
Dún
Laoghaire
Bray
R.
Tipperary Blac kwa ter R.
Irish Sea
c Dublin
Nenagh Limerick
Tralee
70
y
nR
Athlone
Galway Ballinasloe
Kilkee
© 1998 National Geographic Society
Inn
Ballinrobe
S u ir
Atlantic Ocean
Dundalk
R.
Sha
Clifden
Isle of Man
Sligo
Tobercurry
.
Belmullet
Carlow
Kilkenny
Clonmel
St. George's Channel
Wexford
Waterford Dungarvan
WALES (U.K.)
Cork Celtic Sea
swim back to shore.
gaze before gently slipping the predator back into
But what would an angler be if
the rhythmical ocean.
he didn’t sometimes go and push his
Now for my swim back to shore …
luck? I can feel the presence of bass tingling down my spine, providing
EmErald IslE Bass
an almost spiritual experience. Right
By now you’re wondering what variety of bass
at that moment, my lure stops dead
gets me so excited: It’s the sea bass, which we simply
from the powerful hit of a bass, and
call bass. Without doubt it’s a cult fish, bathed in a
like all species that like to hunt
rich glow of history, addiction and affection, fished
around shallow, rocky bays, it knows
for by many, yet by so many greatly misunderstood.
just where to run.An express delivery
The best and most consistent bass fishing
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
©Henry Gilbey (2)
Dead bait isn’t readily available hereabouts
thE EdgE of IntEnsIty takes place in Ireland, a quite magical country
fishing and it’s traditionally where most sea anglers
marauding bass. Every time I stand out there in the cold
of complete yearly weather systems in one day,
head, but in my mind the subtler, gentler coastline of
Atlantic I begin to lose myself in the waves tugging at
great Guinness (yes, believe the hype, it does taste
the southeast offers more bass and less competition.
my legs and the gulls screeching overhead, most likely
different in Ireland) and plenty of approachable,
“In my six years of fishing County Wexford, I’ve
at the sheer cheek of us to even think of being there.
friendly people. Every time I return from a trip I
rarely seen another fisherman,” says Graham Hill, my
My bait moves gently around to the edge of a big
am so full of renewed admiration and love for the
bassing mate and an ex-Yorkshire man who felt the
sandbank out in front of me and the line is held gently
country that I then proceed to spend at least a week
calling of the bass and did indeed move his family there.
between my thumb and forefinger. A sudden slackening
trying to persuade my wife to move over there
“More people are realizing what’s around here, but still
of the line between my fingers is without doubt a bass
(awesome bass fishing and world-class golf courses
most of the time I’m happily fishing on my own.”
picking the bait up and swimming toward me. I steel
might have something to do with it).
Graham and I recently packed our lures and
myself not to strike and instead wait for the fish to turn
Bass often come into very shallow water to feed
headed for a remote sand spit that juts out into the
away. I set the hooks and light line carves through creamy
around the rocks and beaches off the relatively dry
mouth of a Wexford estuary. We also carted along light
surf while at the same time Graham also strikes into a fish
southeast portion of Ireland known as County Wexford.
bait rods, small conventional reels and a bucket of fresh
– two bass fishing friends enveloped in their own little
Bass congregate in good numbers here to hunt crabs,
peeling shore crab, plus of course my camera gear
capsule of Irish heaven.
prawns and small fish. West-facing shorelines (counties
strapped to my back like a reassuring load of concrete.
The hooks suddenly pull free from the unseen bass,
Cork, Kerry and Clare, mainly) also offer great bass
Whilst I love casting lures for hours on end, the history
but instead of standing there and crying like a baby, I do the
of modern bass fishing lies in wading out into the
right thing and head out into the waves to help Graham
tumbling surf and touch-ledgering (bottom fishing) for
land what looks like a stunning bass.
©Henry Gilbey (3)
caption
thE EdgE of IntEnsIty Ü where to toss the bags
Dublin airport is the most central
to access the Wexford coastline, but connections from some US airports also fly into Shannon, good for going to the Clare and Kerry coastlines. Plenty of smaller regional airports like Cork and Kerry are serviced from UK airports. Newcomers will want to learn the ropes from good all-around guides and sources. In Wexford, my friend Graham Hill is not a guide, but he and wife Carol will gladly help with local info about bass, and I always try and stay in their lovely Shady Nook B&B (www.bnbireland. If caption
they’re full, head just up the road to The
I grabbed the bottom lip as hard as I
Horse and Hound in Ballinaboola (www.
could, watched out for the spiky dorsal
wexfordtourism.com/accommodation_
fin and sharp gill plates, and now we both
spinning rod, and shore crabs (peelers) top
whoop and holler like a couple of kids over
my list every time.
a true 10-pounder.
“I might be a bit mad, but I really reckon
hotels_rosslare_wexford.htm). In Kerry, I’d suggest John Quinlan (www. thatchcottageireland.co.uk) for fly fishers or Kevin Brain (www.kbfishingireland.com).
the bass can smell those peelers in the water
BEst tImEs & tacklE Nothing about bass fishing needs to be
A good place to stay is the Butler Arms in
complicated, so travel with a casting/spinning
Waterville (www.butlerarms.com).
rod with a conventional or spinning reel
If going to Clare, contact Michael Bourke
filled with 20-pound braided line. Poppers
and Bill Ryan (www.fishing.westclare.net),
and fast-running, shallow divers attract lots
and you won’t go wrong lodging at the
of bass.
Stella Maris Hotel (www.stellamarishotel. com/default.aspx). Paul and Anne Harris in Beara offer a simply stunning location with all kinds of
I carry tackle in a fanny pack as I tromp the rocks and surf wear ing breathable chest waders and felt-soled wading boots. If you want to try for bass on the fly, look to 8-weight outfits, floating lines, 20-
fishing (www.dromagowlanehouse.com).
pound fluorocarbon leaders and size 2 to
For more tourism information about
1/0 green-chartreuse flies that look like
Ireland, visit www.tourismireland.com.
sand eels. Bait fishing can be done with your
72
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
©ShutterStock.com
net/Wexford_ShadyNookBB.htm).
thE EdgE of IntEnsIty from miles away” says Graham. “Nothing beats that autumn crab moult when the bass go loopy.”
Other Notes of Interest About Ireland
How so much variety is crammed into
such a comparatively small country I will never
The depths of a storm-tossed winter can
Name: The Republic of Ireland covers
fathom out, but in general Ireland is simply
produce some really big bass, but take it easier
5/6ths of the island, with its capital Dublin;
breathtaking; many areas are wild, unspoiled
the remaining portion is Northern Ireland,
and lack any real numbers of people.
created as an administrative division of the
Dublin, the largest Irish city, is not far from
United Kingdom, with Belfast the capital.
the Wexford coastline and worth investing
Population: About 6 million, with 1.7 million
access inshore grounds, and of course the bass
several days for exploration. Head for the
in Dublin
famous Guinness brewery and see how the
come in on this amble supply. Find diving birds
Gover nment: Republic and parliamentary
black stuff is made. Further increase your
smashing into sand eels and you’ve definitely
democracy
chances of emigrating over there by buying
found a bull’s-eye.
Religion:
I accept that Ireland is better known
Catholic
It’s amazing how cosmopolitan Dublin is
Area: 32,591 square miles
while keeping its Irish roots. Trinity College is
Climate: Generally mild with frequent
based here, where one can view its famous
rainfall.
library and the venerable Book of Kells.
Official Languages: Ir ish and English
shore fishing in general is so underdeveloped that
Browse the Christchurch Cathedral, with stain-
Cur rency: Euro (€1 = $1.35)
glass windows of absolutely stunning color. At
I’m amazed to see so few other people doing
For additional facts visit www.state.gov/p/eur/ci/ei/.
night, Dublin’s Temple Bar district vibrates
and look to fish mid-summer through late fall. Big spring tides tend to fish better as greater water movement allows more bait species to
worldwide for its brown trout, salmon and sea trout fishing.Yet the bass fishing exists almost as a kind of secretive sub-culture, indeed the fantastic
About
85
percent
Roman
it. Other species of note include hard-fighting
©Henry Gilbey
Ü bring the camera
her some Waterford crystal.
with quaint pubs, distinctive Irish music and
pollack, wrasse, pike and mullet.
Henry Gilbey works full time as a writer and photographer.
the offering of myriad pints of your favorite
Come to the Emerald Isle and wet a line,
The UK native is never happier than when photographing
brew.
and don’t fail to give coastal bass fishing a try.
fishing trips. Although he loves to catch virtually anything
How about combining a golf, salmon and
You, too, will forever after feel the urge to return
that swims, bass are a current addiction. Learn more about
again and again.
Henry’s adventures at www.henry-gilbey.co.uk. •
bass tour into one glorious holiday, as I’m apt to do? Great courses whose names trip off the tongue of a golf fanatic include Ballybunion. Lahinch, The K Club, Waterville (great bass, salmon, trout and sea trout fishing on the Ring of Kerry), Old Head of Kinsale, Royal Portrush, Royal County Down and Doonbeg. Driving is always laid back in Ireland, so don’t be in any kind of a rush and it will be fine. As in most of Europe, they drive on the left side of the road with steering wheels on the right of the car. Roads are well signposted, people will be friendly if you need to ask directions, and you’ll never want for places to stop for lunch. All major roads in Ireland tend to pass through towns rather than bypass them, so relax, enjoy the sights and pass the time snapping great country-side pictures and dreaming of the bass fishing to come.
DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
73
Belize in a B O N E F I S H , TA R P O N A N D S N A P P E R I N T H E H E A R T O F M AYA C O U N T RY.
WRITTEN BY DAViD burton 76 DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
Breeze I
grabbed my hat firmly as we blasted around
a country with waters still largely innocent and
the corner from Congrejo Flats into one of
majestic. This chunk of Central America coastline off
Caye locally known as the Seven Channels.
northern Belize pulsated with marine life. Every
Gilberto Acosta, at the wheel of his 23-foot
few hundred yards I witnessed colossal schools
panga fishing boat, opened the throttle on the
of bonefish zipping over the flats. For every turn
50-horsepower outboard.
we made through the red mangroves, a cloud
My eyes feasted on the surrounding beauty,
of mullet would thrash about until the clamor
a translucent world in shades of turquoise. As
muddied the water. I watched a leopard ray soar
we approached stretches with a sandy bottom,
into the air as if aiming for the clouds; it splashed
the color transformed into an incredibly vivid
back to its watery world with a resounding belly
viridian hue. My hypnotic gaze ended only when
smack. Overhead, great squadrons of eagle-eyed
a small spray of water dampened my face, the
birds glided until making dive-bombing runs,
coolness awakening me to the reality of Belize, DestinationFish.travel
and seldom did one leave with empty talons. DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007 77
3) nkk ((3) lan Bla rt B , ©Art n, wn ow Bro h Br ossh To ©T right: © op rig o ttop to t ft t lef le m rom fro e f e Clockwis
the east-west running fingers near Ambergris
Belize in a Breeze
sardines and silver kings Each morning we started with the ritual of catching live sardines for bait. Gilberto took this to a high art form with his weighted nylon cast net. He’d very smoothly launch the net, unfurling it with perfect pancakes many feet from the boat. One cast would deliver dozens of shimmering, shiny sardines, and the next might offer a half-dozen grunts or a small barracuda. Once armed with a good supply of sardines, we’d patrol the flats on the south end of Ambergris Caye, moving slowly through the Seven Channels. Gilberto knew just how to use the wind to our advantage, particularly when on the hunt for rolling tarpon. Boca Chica Pass, a channel about 100 feet wide leading from the Caribbean Sea to the leeward side of the island, proved to be a reliable ambush point. As baits massed on the south shore, we’d see dozens of tarpon rolling, most in the 40- to 60pound range. On one such occasion, Cesar stood on the forward deck and back-casted a 12-weight fly outfit armed with a Black Death fly, a local favorite. On the fifth cast, he made two powerful strip strikes and shouted, “I’m hooked up, I’m hooked up.” With a teenage guide on one end of the line and a teenage tarpon on the other, the fish went ballistic.
Winds gusted 15 to 25 knots – typical
skiffs await transport to ambergris caye hot
during the spring dry season off Ambergris
from tarpon.
Caye. The thermometer seemed to stay in the
Pescador Resort, put me in the capable hands
low 80s each day, and though the stiff breeze
of Gilberto Acosta and Cesar, his 19-year-old
made it a challenge to cast at times, any cursing
son. Gilberto, a veteran of 27 years guiding
came with the appreciation that the wind also
Ambergris Caye and surrounding areas, also
suppressed insect activity, which during summer
teaches fly fishing; Cesar guides too. I asked if
months can be problematic near the subtropical
we could all fish together, and father and son
shorelines.
smiled simultaneously, making it clear that they
Fortunately, Bob, the guide master at El
wouldn’t argue a bit over that idea.
78
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
©David Barton (2)
spots. below: live baits receive prompt attention
DestinationFish.travel
Belize in a Breeze Coming up half-bodied and mightily shaking its
the wind. Cesar delivered casts with a smooth and
head, and then launching skyward repeatedly, the fly
silky delivery, and he knew just how to tease fish
disengaged.
into striking. Both of these fellows rate at the top as
Cesar immediately returned the fly to the
guides and anglers.
scene of the commotion, and amazingly another poon from the same school pounced on it. This
beef on the reef
skirmish as well ended in favor of the silver king,
My burning desire to complete a flats grand
but so goes tarpon fishing. Even so, it left us all in a
slam by adding a permit to catches of bonefish and
state of hyperventilation. Our hook-up ration soon
tarpon didn’t pan out, although due to no one’s fault.
improved, and we each released several fish before
Permit tend to avoid the deeper portions of flats
moving on to bonefish territory.
where they like to roam when it’s windy, said Gilberto,
Gilberto said he’d put us on a spot renowned
shunning the lack of visibility for crustaceans and to
for reliable action on gray ghosts. I quickly saw just
prevent themselves from becoming prey to sharks.
what he meant. Under a sunny sky and a falling
Instead, he suggested we move to the nearby reef for
tide, we went toe to fin with numerous bonefish on
variety and rod-bending fun.
light tackle. Since these fish average only between
Belize is blessed with remarkable barrier reefs
two and five pounds, we scaled down our tackle.
where fish thrive on the bountiful supply of baitfish
belizean flats rate as among the most beautiful
Gilberto went with a 5-weight fly rod with success
and coral honeycombs. Gilberto ran to just east of
bonefish.
on both shrimp and crab patterns. My spin rig of a
Congrejo Caye, a few miles south of Ambergris
We switched gear and set anchor in about 12 feet of
Penn 5500 reel and medium-action Rhino rod did
Caye. We waited until the wind calmed down to
water at the west edge of the reef. With a bounty of
just fine, and a curly tail chartreuse jig tipped with a
about 10 knots and started trolling over the coral
sardines still alive and kicking in the bait well, we
dollop of shrimp turned out to be quite popular. We
heads at about three knots. I used a nine-inch, red-
went with the real deal. I wielded a Penn 850SSM
released bonefish after bonefish, and you couldn’t
and-white Bomber Long A plug and Cesar offered
on a beefy rod with 30-pound monofilament
have wiped the silly grins off our faces if you tried.
up a bright-yellow, snub-nosed lure. At a depth of
line and a top shot of 80-pound fluorocarbon
I must say that Gilberto and Cesar really
about 15 feet, the coral clusters appeared as dark
leader, tipped with a 3/0 circle hook sporting a
impressed me. Gilberto, a powerfully built fellow, can
blossoms and burnt fireplugs in the azure sea. It all
lively sardine. A heavy egg sinker kept the bait
launch the fly as far as the eye can see – even into
looked mighty fishy, but no takers.
hugging close to the bottom.
Top to bottom: ©Belize Tourism, ©David Barton
in the world, and host massive schools of feisty
DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
79
Belize in a Breeze I struck pay-dirt almost instantly. Even with
in play, and I soon brought the valiant fighter
the honeycomb of the reefs and certain break-
the drag cranked down pretty tight, it still sang as
close enough so it could be leadered to the boat.
offs. Gilberto said he loves snapper grilled whole
shrilly as an opera singer trying to break a glass. It
We’ve all experienced these feisty fighters in
over a direct flame and jacks smoked slowly over
felt like a jack of some kind, but I couldn’t make
various settings, and the Belize version certainly
cracked coconut husks and wood embers.
out its shimmering glow for a good 15 minutes.
won’t disappoint you.
The big jacks also gobbled flies with a
As soon as the fish spotted the bottom of the
The action at this primo spot continued
frenzied furor, busting on any fast-stripped
panga, the 20-pound jack crevalle took off again,
non-stop for over two hours. I even managed a
pattern and getting into the backing in a hurry.
skillfully wrapping itself around our anchor
reef slam. I hauled in a nice lane snapper, several
Our fly gear consisted of two 12-weight rigs: a
chain in the process. Gilberto and I worked
gray snapper and kept a few of the bull dogs of
Sage rod with a Billy Pate reel holding about
together to unravel the knot and keep the fish
the reef – mutton snapper – from returning to
200 yards of Dacron backing, 105 feet of Rio intermediate weight fly line and 80-pound fluorocarbon leader, and an Ugly Stick rod with a matching Pflueger Trion reel spooled with a few hundred yards of gelcoat backing, 105 feet of Orvis Wonderline and 100-pound fluorocarbon leader. We kept the tackle on the heavier side for the snapper and jacks in order to get them to the boat faster. Doing so helped under-size fish regain the energy to escape the toothy reef critters always eager for a weakened target. Even so, some of the duels lasted up to 15 minutes due to the strength and stamina of these reef wrestlers. With plenty for dinner, we called it quits. And after so much pumping and winding all the tenacious jacks and sassy snapper this day, I didn’t object at all as we ran back to El Pescador Lodge. The thought of a nice shoulder massage really filled my head. And so it went each day we fished – bonefish, tarpon, jacks, and always-willing snapper. I always feel my adrenaline starting to rise as I climb off the plane and plant my feet on Belizean soil. The variety of fishing is amazing due largely to the Belize Barrier Reef, a 185-mile reef line
coast of the country. The longest such reef in the pool at el pescador resort shimmers in the breeze. opposite page: eye-to-eye with an iguana.
80 DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
©David Barton
and three huge atolls that extend off the entire
©Art Blank
Belize in a Breeze
the Western Hemisphere and second only to
keep anglers busy, and deeper waters produce blue
This represented the third trip for my
Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, the Caribbean
marlin, white marlin, wahoo, dorado and other
wife Mary and me. We really like the melting pot of
Sea flushes the coral structures and outcroppings
deep-sea battlers. Giant black grouper weighing 60
Belize because it blends ancient Mayan culture with
with nourishing currents.
pounds and more along the reef drop-offs can also
British colonialism and a funky Caribbean charm.
I’ve never visited without encountering plenty
put you and equipment to the test. While spring and
Toss in some of the best fishing in the world, and
of tarpon and huge schools of bonefish, and most
summer months represent excellent fishing for most
you know why our fourth visit won’t be long in
of the year you can expect permit as well. In the
of these species, you’ll find good action and fewer
coming.
interior rivers, snook, tarpon and cubera snapper
boats on the water during the fall and winter.
Ü bring your camera
AD, after which activity at the site mysteriously
125 feet below us. It really made us appreciate
We decided to return to Belize this year
stopped and it became abandoned. After
the architecture of this place. I could then
with new goals in mind other than only fishing.
crossing the Mopan
more easily imagine the high priest perched
This time, we also wanted to learn about the
River by hand-cranked ferry and snapping
here centuries ago in a jaguar-skin robe and
Mayan ruins that cover the landscape. As an
pictures of enormous iguanas sunning
feather plumage, giving orders and edicts to
archeologist in the late 1970s and early 80s,
themselves on the banks, we climbed the hill
his loyal subjects grouped below.
this particularly perked my interest. Flourishing
to a high, limestone ridge majestically rising
San Pedro hosts an annual Lobsterfest
as a civilization in Central America from about
over the surrounding countryside. The most
in June with eight days of events including
2,000 BC to 1,000 AD, the Maya Indians
impressive structure is the central temple,
street parties, lobster recipe competitions,
built great temples, crafted technologically
known as El Castillo (“the castle”).
lobster beach barbecues, and even a
advanced artifacts, pottery and tools, created
ClimbingElCastillobecameanadventure
King and Queen pageant. Visit www.
a working calendar, and carved their stories
in itself, with narrow, worn steps and no
sanpedrolobsterfest.com for more details.
on rock slabs known as stelae.
guardrails. But I recommend carefully making
You
On one of our day trips, we ventured
the trek as you’ll witness beautiful views
Restaurant and Bar (pronounced Fee-
by powerboat and van from Ambergris to
from the pinnacle of the temple. Giovanni,
Doughs) in San Pedro, its bar well-known
Zunantanich (pronounced shoo-nan-TA-nich,
our guide, asked us to be quiet; he clapped
throughout
meaning “stone woman”). It’s a magnificent
his hands together, and we could hear a
reggae music. Check out www.fidosbelize.
Mayan town that existed from 700 to 1,000
resounding echo from the plaza floor some
com.
DestinationFish.travel
won’t
the
want
to
miss
Caribbean
for
Fido’s
funky
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
81
Belize in a Breeze where to toss the bags
The route to Ambergris Caye begins with arrival at the international airport in Belize City. Commuter airlines that serve San Pedro on Ambergris Caye include Maya Island Air and Tropic Air. You can also make your way via the Caye Caulker Water Taxi, which provides hourly departures during the day from the terminal near the Swing Bridge in downtown Belize City. I particularly enjoy riding their 30-foot-plus super skiffs powered by 250horsepower engines. Once on Ambergris Caye, you can get around by renting a golf cart by the day or week, or utilize the Island Ferry for the short ride to San Pedro from El Pescador Lodge. About 4,000 people live in San Pedro, the largest town on Ambergris Caye; in 800 AD, as many as 20,000 Mayans lived on the island. We stayed at El Pescador Resort, located about a mile and a half from San Pedro. The resort consists of a main lodge and separate clusters of villas to the north and south. The buildings nestle the beach, offering a superb view of waves crashing over the Belize Barrier Reef. We found the buildings and grounds immaculately maintained, and the whole operation first rate. Mary and I really liked Villa #7, also named Belize Breeze. I’d recommend you request this villa if available because of the lovely view of the Caribbean Sea through the palm trees above a saltwater pool. You can also take a dip in two other pools on the property. El Pescador Resort caters to anglers,
offering plenty of fishing gear and advice on the best places to wet a line. Besides free use of bicycles and kayaks, the resort provides tour packages to Mayan ruins, snorkel and scuba trips to the magnificent reefs as well as shopping trips. And if a great massage is in order after a day of fishing or sightseeing, we highly recommend the talented hands of Rosario – possibly the best in all of Belize. A special treat at El Pescador Lodge involves dinner, which is shared with other guests under the starlight. Great courses from night to night included grilled wahoo steaks, chicken cacciatore and a Tex-Mex barbecue buffet. We found the cooking and preparation outstanding. After the wine started flowing, we heard great tales of encounters with huge numbers and sizes of tarpon and bonefish, including digital pics of the ones making it to boat side, but strangely never of the monsters that somehow always got away. We also sat spellbound with stories of those who chose to get up-close-and-personal with barracudas and sharks at the nearby Shark Ray Alley diving
Other Notes of Interest About Belize • Official name: Belize, formerly known as British Honduras; gained independence from the United Kingdom in 1981. • Area: 22,966 square kilometers (8,867 square miles), making it a country with one of the lowest population densities in the world. • Capital: Belmopan, with Belize City the largest • Location: In Central America, bordered by Mexico to the north and Guatemala west and south; it’s the only Central American country that doesn’t share a border with the Pacific Ocean. • Population: 291,000 • Religion: About half Catholic, one-fourth Protestant and the rest mainly composed of Taoists and Buddhists. • Languages: English, with Creole and Spanish also spoken; Belize is the only English-speaking country in Central America. • Government: Commonwealth Realm with a parliamentary democracy • Currency: Belizean Dollar ($1.97BZD = $1US)
site. Two resident dogs kept us entertained as well. Nala, a small shepherd-mix pup, and Zeus, a grand and broad old black Labrador, came rambling by every day around lunchtime to greet guests. Zeus would leave the shade from under a bush, walk briskly up the steps, dive into the pool, swim a full circuit while drinking water all the way, climb out and resume napping under the same bush. For more information, visit www.ElPescador.com.
Visit the U.S. State Department’s web site for more details about Belize: www.state.gov/p/ wha/ci/bh/.
David Barton resides in Wisconsin, where he enjoys frequent lake-fishing excursions with his wife and daughter. On a more international note, Barton’s career allows him to travel to all points of the globe, and his baggage includes gear suitable for just about any species he might encounter. •
BELIZE 0
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82
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
Mullins
Sea
River
Dangriga
Victoria Peak 3,675 ft (1,120 m)
San
R.
Belize City
c Belmopan
MEXICO en cu¥
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Ignacio Middlesex
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DestinationFish.travel
Inset: ©David Barton
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Belize in a Breeze
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
83
SAFE TRAVELS
Tips, Techniques and Ideas in Getting from Here to There in One Piece. By DOUG KELLY
OPPORTUNITY MAKES A THIEF
While refraining from wearing expensive
During a recent stay in Mexico City, my
jewelry when traveling might seem obvious to
Luckily for the burglar, he didn’t awaken Cooper
son and I walked along a street en route to
most of us, how often do we all still see fellow
– a former NFL offensive lineman for the Denver
our hotel after dinner. Five women crowded
travelers flashing gold chains and diamond
Broncos and Tampa Bay Buccaneers.
around us who appeared to be in their early
rings? Unless you want to be a thief magnet,
Keep windows shut in your hotel room,
20s. Trying to distract us with flirtatious talk
curb your ego and don’t travel looking
even if above the ground floor. Consider packing
and posturing, I felt a hand where most men
extravagant. By doing so you won’t always
a small, portable fan if the hotel doesn’t offer air-
normally carry their wallets – into a back
deter being mugged, but it makes no sense to
conditioning or the a/c is on the blink.
pants pocket. The same thing happened to my
tempt fate.
Speaking of hotels, don’t fall for this scam:
son.
Last year I saw a broad-daylight robbery on
You get a call in your room from the front desk
They quickly dispersed when it became
a busy street in Valparaiso, Chile. Just as with a
requesting confirmation of your credit card
obvious we weren’t the easy marks they first
football that’s often fumbled when carried like
number and expiration date. When days or weeks
assumed. My son knocked a hand away, I put
a loaf of bread, the crook grabbed a camera
later your next statement arrives, your heart lurches
an elbow into the ribs of one persistent young
that a tourist carelessly carried by hand instead
at the sight of numerous charges you never made.
lady, and off they went. We returned to our
of secured with a neck strap. Before anyone
Turns out, the person calling your room did so
hotel, wallets intact.
could react, the young man exited via an alley
from the outside or a lobby phone, and not the
The point being, of course, that valuables you
into the inner city. Use a wrist or neck strap
front desk. Simple solution: Never provide your
carry around should never be easily obtainable
– it makes it that much harder for thieves and
credit card information to anyone calling you – go
by would-be looters. Keep such items stuffed
therefore less likely to fall victim to incidental
to the front desk in person if necessary.
in front pockets, and be suspicious of anyone
crime.
ZIP IT
approaching.
SLEEP ON IT
84
Feel like talking politics in a public place when
For a fishing trip to Bequia, the largest
traveling? That’s not a good idea in this day and age.
Caribbean island in the Grenadines, frequent
After a couple of pints, an overly ripe and loudly
traveler Mark Cooper stayed with friends in
opinionated fellow waxed on to tablemates in a
a B&B. With a beautiful secluded location
London pub exactly what he thought about this
overlooking the harbor, they settled in for a
nation and that.
night’s sleep. Figuring their room to be secure on
When the blowhard later departed on his own,
the second floor, they opened the window to let
a man followed who evidently felt quite displeased
in the cool fresh air ... and fell into a deep sleep.
at the offensive remarks cast upon his country.
Sometime between midnight and 6 a.m., a
Fortunately, his friends saw the enraged man leave
brazen cat burglar propped a 2 x 6 against the
the lounge right behind their comrade in a state
outer wall and climbed through their window,
of hostility, and they intervened to discourage a
making off with traveler’s checks and a camera.
potentially dangerous scene.
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
85
SAFE TRAVELS Leave your ego at home. Don’t get
For a variety of brands offering these
• If your waiter or the premises look unkempt
dragged into public discussions about
products, do a net search for “hand antiseptic
in any way, hit the road – that’s a signal that
politics, no matter your impulse. The same
companies.
management does not demand cleanliness.
sucked into an argument with a local
GOOD EATS
• Carefully inspect your food when it
merchant or restaurateur. Many Americans
I’m often amazed at the casual attitude
arrives. Don’t ignore any sign of spoilage or
falsely assume that law enforcement or the
taken by many travelers about their choices
a suspicion about the freshness. While most
courts in a foreign setting will support them
of restaurants. You really need to be picky,
travelers feel reluctant to not eat what’s
in a predicament.
because you’ll seldom get a chance to inspect
been ordered, that’s better than a trip to an
a kitchen that may tolerate poor sanitation or
emergency room.
WATCH WHAT YOU TOUCH
employees who don’t heed health measures. In
• Never eat out on a Monday if you can
We can pick up numerous diseases
many cases – especially in remote destinations
help it, especially on the road. It might be
from touching just about anything when
with a low per capita income – a cook with
less crowded, but you stand a good chance
traveling. Sitting at restaurant tables, seats at
a family and on a tight
airport gates and on the planes themselves,
budget isn’t going to
hotel counters – especially shaking hands
give up a shift even
– should result in frequent hand washing.
when sick.
Always use a tissue or handkerchief when
A few insights
making contact with your face instead of
before you walk into
bare fingers.
that quaint little bistro
Even those safeguards might not
to prevent ruining
be enough. A number of hand antiseptics
your trip:
goes with telling offensive jokes or getting
– wipes, gels, sprays and rinses – on the market put the kill to germs. They can help
• Before ordering,
control the spread of bacteria and viruses
visit the restroom. If management allows an
of being served the weekend’s leftovers. The
from person to person, surface to surface
area they expect to be viewed to remain in an
leftovers might be days old too, since food
and animal to person.
unsanitary and messy condition, don’t expect
distributors typically make deliveries prior
more for the out-of-sight kitchen.
to Saturday so the restaurant can cover the weekend rush. An exception: places busy
86
• If you know the native language, read
all the time, necessitating constantly fresh
any window signs before you enter. You
ingredients.
should especially think twice about dining
Keep in mind that in many foreign
at a restaurant with a sign that says, “cook
countries, a Value Added Tax (VAT) will
wanted.” Even a “help wanted” sign call into
appear on your check in addition to tax. If
question what kind of service you’d get, not
the gratuity isn’t already figured into the total
to mention that if management is too cheap
– another frequent practice – you should
to pay for an employment ad, what’s the food
compute the tip based on the amount before
quality like?
the VAT and tax. •
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
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From Left to Right: ©David A. Brown
angling the andes Action abounds in the splendor of Ecuador’s Southern Highlands.
WRITTEN BY DAViD
A. broWn
W
here the journey and the destination
Cold,
deliver equal significance, there you find
profoundly captivating – that was my impression
wind-swept,
unforgiving
and
a satisfied traveler.
of the park’s rough and rugged environment.
I enjoyed just such an adventure when I joined
Frosty air and complete seclusion fostered a
my friend Marco Cevallos and his college buddy
refreshing lucidity.
Jimmy Jaramillo for a trip deep into a desolate
Located in Ecuador’s Azuay Province, the
corner of Ecuador’s Andean Mountains known
park with 71,186 acres of gouged granite visage
as Cajas National Park. Pronounced CA-hahs, it
owes its formation to volcanic activity of the
means “boxes,” referring to some 235 lakes holding
Mesozoic period and glacial carvings many
a bounty of stocked rainbow and brown trout. Park
millions of years later. U-shaped valleys and box
admission is only $10.
lakes now compose the Cajas’ complexion.
a ngling
the
a ndes nation’s capital located in the Northern Highlands, and drive south to Cuenca. I chose to do this, and the seven-hour haul over the Pan-American Highway’s often bumpy, sometimes jolting surface required steadfast commitment. However, the groundlevel perspective and a handful of intriguing sights more than justified the effort. “When you drive from Quito to Cuenca, you get to see the transition from the Northern Highlands to the Southern Highlands,” Marco said. “You go from a younger volcanic period with active volcanoes in the north to an older period with no active volcanoes in the south.” Indeed, while Ecuador’s Northern Highlands sport lush green forests and steep slopes, the southern region comprises lower,
The ground here has a perpetual dampness, and you’ll find shallow, marshy
above and bottom right: wild horses graze below ecuador’s tallest volcano; donkes provide surefooted transport in the southern highlands.
rolling terrain with dry, dusty rock faces and broad sand dunes. The arid climate is ideal for
ponds where frequent rain and a persistent
and the rare spectacled bear make random
paja grass, a remarkably strong plant whose
paramando (mist) settle into low spots. Despite
appearances. If you need a break from casting,
wispy stalks strengthen mud bricks used in
the frequent moisture, Cajas actually receives
the park contains archeological ruins and
primitive construction.
a lot of sunlight, mostly in the morning and
caves that beckon exploration, while the
In the rural areas, we passed several
early afternoon. This, combining with rich
historic Ingacarretero (Inca Road) passes
mountain Indian families, most usually
soil and plenty of water, yields a vivid array
through the northeast quadrant.
on horseback. Such encounters were
of orchids, ferns, lichens, mosses and brilliant
Come for the fishing, but expect a heavy
wildflowers. Hillsides often glisten with
dose of escapism.
With altitudes ranging from about
the scenic route
10,000 to over 13,000 feet and daytime
Nestled
temperatures that can fall past 50 degrees
Highlands, Cajas National Park sits about
F, Cajas National Park relinquishes its trout
22 miles northwest of Cuenca, a beautiful,
treasures begrudgingly. Listen closely and you
modern city from which most area fishing
may hear the shrill cries of a hawk gliding
trips originate. Foreign visitors typically fly
above, while hummingbirds hover next to
into the international airport at Guayaquil,
yellow flowers and the impressive Andean
Ecuador’s financial center, and make a short
condor watches from a rocky perch.
jaunt southeast to Cuenca.
Throughout the park, deer, rabbits, foxes
Option No. 2: Fly into Quito, the
90
in
Ecuador’s
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
Southern
Clockwise: ©David A. Brown
narrow waterfalls.
DestinationFish.travel
a ngling
the
a ndes
Ü getting here Air
travel
involves
arriving
from outside the country to either Simon Bolivar International Airport in Guayaquil or Mariscal Sucre International
Airport
in
Quito.
Domestic flights to most cities are handled by Tame, Icaro and AeroGal. At the top of our journey, about an hour and a half south of Quito, the road skirted Cotopaxi National Park, home to the world’s highest active clockwise from top: llamas seem to be admiring this inca stone complex; a statue of peter overlooks a small town; a trout went for a grub lure.
volcano (19,347 feet). With the snowcapped giant ever looming, the park abounds with ecological fascinations
predictable, considering that 70 percent of
pounders occasionally stretch the string. The
from
Ecuador’s indigenous people reside in three
deeper you push into the park, the higher the
roadside
of the provinces along our route (Cotopaxi,
opportunity level.
flipping over rocks with their talons.
Chimborazo and Canar). Typically short in
Only a couple of legitimate roads run
Ribbons of chilly blue water
stature, with ink-black hair, most men wear
through Cajas, but hiking from lake to lake,
drain the park, while Rio Tamboyacu,
traditional fedora-style hats while women
mountain biking or off-roading in four-
Laguna de Limpiopungo and a few
adorn themselves with colorful beaded
wheel-drive vehicles expands your range.
smaller lakes offer trout fishing warm-
jewelry.
Jimmy drove us to one of his favorite spots,
ups for those Cajas-bound. This trip
Between towns, the highway wound
where we parked 20 yards from the water,
through long open stretches where the Andes
rigged up and walked to an area of promising
displayed an agricultural tapestry of carrot,
contour.
broccoli, potato, onion, corn and radish crops – mostly grown for Ecuadorian restaurants. Neatly defined plots descending along the slopes bore testament to the Inca-influenced style of terrace farming.
wild
blueberries
to
foraging
growing caracaras
allowed no such luxury, but during a later visit, a nice trout dinner at the Tambopaxi Inn – just three miles from the volcano – spoke well of the local stock. Because we left Quito at midday, my guide Marco Cevallos pushed hard to reach our midpoint in Riobamba shortly after nightfall. The capital of the Chimborazo Province and
Mucha trucha
once Ecuador’s capital, Riobamba
Trout, locally called trucha, are fished
marks the division between Northern
throughout
Ecuadorian
and Southern Highlands. Colonial
Highlands, but Cajas sees nowhere near
architecture, cobblestone streets and
the fishing pressure common to the more
Parque Pedro Vicente Maldonado
densely populated Northern Highlands. Most
made the Old Town district worth a
fish run about one to two pounds, but 5-
morning stroll.
most
DestinationFish.travel
of
the
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
91
a ngling
the
a ndes
Ü getting here cont. Life in Riobamba moves much slower than in Quito, Quayaquil or Cuenca. Nevertheless this town exudes an air of significance, no doubt based in its history as a trade center. Ecuador has a large public transit system linking most populated towns. Private tour operators charge more, but they’ll include several sightseeing stops. In Cuenca, daily bus routes access Cajas National Park for $1.50 per person. Most restaurant bills include tax and servicio. The latter is not actually a tip for the waiter, but a general service fee for the staff. If your individual server does a good job, leave 10 to 15 percent directly to your server. Single rooms at Hotel Riobamba went for $30 a night. Fancier digs may fetch $65, but my tidy room had a working TV, hot water and a door that locked. Each morning brought a breakfast of bread, cheese, fruit coffee and juice. To plan your trip,
info@adventureplanetecuador.com, or visit www.adventureplanetecuador.com.
where rocks and brush allowed casting room, Jimmy
dress warm! mountain breezes keep
and I worked spoons and spinners through the depths.
temperatures cool.
Marco’s a top-notch trekking guide, but he’s not into
Based in Cuenca, Jimmy’s been fishing the Cajas
Here’s a tip I learned (nearly the hard, cold way) while
fishing, so he located a grassy nook in the granite bluff
lakes for over 20 years. He said he catches fish year-
working my way over and around the lake’s rocky
overlooking our lake and took a siesta.
round, but November through May sees the best
and heavily vegetated perimeter: Step carefully when
I noticed a meandering stream working its way
action. “It rains the most during these months, so the
traversing Cajas lakesides. Considering how these
over a rock jam and trickling into the lake. These
lakes and rivers have the strongest currents,” he advised.
pools formed, there’s not much smooth, level ground.
tributaries are common in Cajas, and some of them
Like most fish, Cajas trout will utilize structure
At times, I shimmied past a jagged, rocky ledge with
link adjacent lakes with trout travel lanes. Moreover,
for ambush, so look for pronounced shoreline points
barely a foot’s worth of real estate between me and a
current stimulates just about anything with a mouth,
and free-standing rocks in open water. Some anglers
big plunge.
as moving water stirs up aquatic forage and delivers a
employ john boats with trolling motors to scoot
Once we reached a welcoming point of shoreline
bounty of terrestrial meals that tumble into the flow.
around the bigger bodies, but most of the lakes in
92
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
DestinationFish.travel
Clockwise: ©David A. Brown
contact Marco Cevallos at:
a ngling
the
a ndes
Cajas offer sufficient shoreline opportunity. Weedy
Multi-piece travel rods facilitate transportation,
bottoms are common, so don’t get embarrassed if you
but Jimmy carried a couple of telescoping spinning
Ü bring your camera
set the hook on a hungry stalk of grass (um, can you
outfits that collapsed down to about two feet. Cuenca
I found the following sights and
tell I did this?) Adjust retrieves or fishing styles to keep
offers a few sporting goods stores, but a selection of
your bait out of the snags. In addition to spinners and
serious fishing gear is hard to come by. Fortunately,
spoons, cajas trout will eat small crankbaits and plastic
the diminutive size of trout tackle enables you to carry
park visits, Cotopaxi National Park
tail jigs on 1/16- to 1/32-ounce lead heads.
plenty of variety and backup in a single gear bag.
provides magnificent roadside viewing
When conditions permit, fly fishermen do
“What I like the most about fishing in Cajas is
and memorable photo opportunities. I’ve
well with 6-weight outfits, floating line and dry flies,
taking on the extreme conditions that you face,” Jimmy
especially in the park’s rivers. Realistically, Cajas winds
said. “Also, it’s the enjoyment of the surroundings and
often prohibit traditional fly fishing, but Jimmy has
the relaxation that I get from being here.
foreground.
an effective tactic for presenting flies on spinning gear.
“The fishing in Cajas is not only a noble sport,
• Chimborazo – Ecuador’s highest volcano
Rigging a small cork a foot or two above a fly tied
but it’s also a communion with the environment,
(20,702 feet), dominates the landscape
directly to his main line, he was able to make light
the scenery and animals. This has taught me to love,
presentations where the splash of a lure or baited hook
respect and take care of the natural resources.”
would spook the fish.
excursions well worth the time and trouble: • Even when tight schedules prohibit
enjoyed the view both ways, with llamas and wild horses cooperating long enough for me to frame them in the volcano’s
with its broad, hulking form. Clearly visible from Riobamba and its outlying areas, Chimborazo’s name means “bearded man” for the way snow drizzles down its
For natural baits, Jimmy said the park habitat
aMbient trappings
provides earthworms, grasshoppers, crickets and various
Proximity to Cuenca makes it easy to integrate
• The Riobamba Train – The historic trade
Cajas fishing trips with family vacations, or vice versa.
route no longer runs to the coast, but it still
Anglers can reach prime fishing grounds in a
transports cargo and passengers between
insect larvae. Floating these baits on a No. 6 hook with a light split-shot does the trick. “We also use masa de pan – bread dough,” Jimmy
face.
reasonable drive, while those of more cosmopolitan
Riobamba and Sibambe. Adventurous
inclinations keep busy with shopping, street festivals
tourists who pay for a rooftop ride enjoy
said. “Fishing with bread is often productive at night or
and sightseeing within Ecuador’s center of art and
astounding views. At the last station,
on cloudy days. But this is not my favorite technique
culture.
because it can get boring and it takes a lot of patience.”
di vi ng plug s do w ell in d e e pe r la ke s .
Alausi, a giant statue of St. Peter, watches
Rio Tomebambo separates Cuenca’s colonial
Old Town section from the more modern districts.
over the town. The ride segment to Sibambe is especially exciting and known as the “Devil’s Nose” due to its steep, twisting course. • Balbanera – A few miles outside Riobamba, Ecuador’s oldest church was built in 1534 by indigenous Indians under Spanish rule. • Ingapirga – In the town of Canari in the Canar Province, this sprawling and meticulously crafted stone complex is considered Ecuador’s most significant Inca site. The central feature is a sun temple with east and west-facing seats, built on a hill overlooking a courtyard, religious halls, living quarters and burial mounds. Free-roaming llamas accent this picturesque site. Admission is $6.
DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
93
IGFA LEADS THE WAY The International Game Fish Association represents the ultimate arbiter of world records and angling regulations. Besides providing input on fishery research and legislation, the IGFA possesses the world’s greatest repository for archives on literature and electronic media on fishing.
A NEWCOMER RISES TO RULE THE RECORD BOOK
F
ive years ago, horse-trainer Jodie Johnson barely knew which end of a fishing rod to pick up. Since her boyfriend loved the sport so much, Johnson decided to at least learn the basics. “I took my mother and we attended a 2 ½-day fly-fishing course,” she recalls. I thought “hey, this is fun.” However, on a subsequent trip to Alaska, she initially couldn’t catch anything. Her first conquest turned out to be a hand-size sunfish caught while casting from shore. “I yanked so hard on the rod when feeling the bite that the sunfish sailed over my head, flopping on the ground,” says Johnson. Afraid to touch the gasping animal yet intent on getting it back into the water, Johnson shrieked while trying to scoop it up with her hands. Her fishing companions laughed relentlessly. No one’s laughing now. From that modest beginning, it might be hard to believe that Johnson presently holds 61 IGFA saltwater and fly world records with two others pending. That total includes a stupendous 50 last year alone, earning her the title of Top Female Angler in the IGFA’s World Record Achievement Awards for 2006. Before leaving Alaska, Johnson caught several Dolly Varden, quickly gaining confidence and knowhow about fly-fishing basics such as stripping, clearing the line and how best to play the small quarry. Persistent practice back home in Peterborough, New Hampshire, sharpened casting skills. And from there, the learning curve went on fast-forward. Even so, world records didn’t enter her mind until October 2004. Halfway around the world in the Seychelle Islands in the Indian Ocean, Johnson’s guide noted her prowess and suggested the idea of going for an IGFA world record. “I’d never heard of the IGFA,” Johnson says. After receiving a tutorial on the organization from the guide and because the area offers great opportunities for catching big fish on fly gear, Johnson figured she’d give it a whirl. Her first breakthrough involved a 32 ½-pound wahoo she caught while fishing from an 18-foot inflatable. At first the wahoo only followed her fly, waiting to strike just as the leader came to the rod tip. The fish missed the fly but left tooth marks in the boat. “I’m surprised we didn’t sink,” she laughs. After finally encouraging a strike and subduing the speedster, the guide helped her fill out the world-
record application. The epiphany was immediate and cataclysmic. “Here I am, wading in the warm saltwater and seeing fish tracking my fly and striking, and trying to establish bigger catches than anyone before,” says Johnson. “Right then and there, saltwater fly fishing became my passion.” On a recent trip to the Seychelles, Johnson latched onto a giant trevally. It would become a world record on 20-pound tippet at 32 ½ pounds, but not before the bullish fish towed the 20-foot boat for an hour. “We called it the Seychelles sleigh ride,” she says. “We couldn’t do a thing except enjoy the ride until it tired some and I could work it to the boat.” Thereafter, they succeeded in reviving the fish for a live release. Since then she also tamed in only eight minutes a 36-pound giant trevally on 8-pound tippet. Subsequent trips to the Seychelles as well as Mozambique, the Maldives, Australia, the Florida Keys and most recently the Bahamas have kept the world records mounting up. One battle in particular drove home the importance of teamwork. “I fought a 116-pound dogtooth tuna for 45 minutes,” Johnson says. “Without the guide providing encouragement and putting the boat into perfect position based on the angle of my line, the fish never would have been caught. It’s therefore the team’s fish, even though I have the record.” Johnson’s trip preparation now involves meticulously going through the IGFA record book and searching for potential species to target. “We also keep good communications with all our guides,” she adds. “Remote locations and naive fish become the key. This is the greatest sport, and we learn something new every day.” • Support IGFA by becoming a member. To view membership categories and benefits, visit their web site at www.IGFA.org DestinationFish.travel
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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
97
i n t he
Midst
a shrimp cocktail proved too tempting to this bonefish in a south bimini sound .
WRITTEN BY DouG
kelly
PHOTOS BY kelly
brADen
of
Ghosts
A TOURISM TRANSFORMATION ENCOMPASSES THIS POPULAR BAHAMIAN RETREAT WHILE ITS
agle Eyes scopes the flats and suddenly
E
I couldn’t see squat coming our way
freezes like a lab sniffing a grouse. It’s
anywhere on this Bimini flat, but nonetheless
amazing to behold the intense gaze as he
opened the bail of the reel in readiness to hurl
focuses in the distance on something not discernable
a shrimp at the behest of veteran bonefish guide
by most mortals.
Fred Rolle – aptly nicknamed Eagle Eyes due to
LEGENDARY SPORT FISHING “There, just past the second big sandy area,” he says
his penchant for spotting bonefish long before
REMAINS UNCHANGED.
to Kelly Braden and I. Turning from my position on
anyone else. Although Rolle has poled these
the skiff’s bow to glance up at the push-pole platform,
waters for most of his 56 years, you’d swear he
I note that the man’s eyes point at about 11 o’clock.
looks closer to 36.
in t h e
Midst o f Ghosts
a tailing fish gets hearts beating double time, and it encourages an encounter on the sandy flats by foot or by boat.
Soon we also spy the school of about five bonefish, their tails and dorsal fins happily swishing the surface as they stalk these crab-lush waters. Gulf Stream currents constantly nourish the shallow sand and grass carpets of Bimini’s main North and South island flats, keeping them chockfull of a menagerie of sealife.
100
The nutrient-rich sediments and tidal flushes of water gently nurture plentiful populations of crabs, shrimps, worms and other entrees of interest to permit and especially bonefish. The flats literally pulsate with the ageless drama of predators pursuing prey, with an appreciative audience of two-legged visitors playing their game of catch and release. “Cast it now, low and in front of their path, and try and make the shrimp skitter on the surface,” says Rolle. Never one to easily process multiple commands, I do somewhat credibly, although the skittering more closely resembles a double plop. We now wait and hope the bonefish don’t change direction. The gray ghosts mill about, stop, move away, circle back, all the while sadistically teasing us. Finally congregating where the shrimp lies in wait, our eyes examine the slack of my line for the slightest sign of a take. At last the line twitches, quickly comes tight, and Rolle advises to raise the rod tip high. As I do so, the hooked bonefish – instinctively sensing it just ate a shrimp on steroids – blitzes off in the direction of Key West. I double-hand the rod grip as the animal removes 150 yards of
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
line in seconds. Figuring that action didn’t rid it of the insidious shrimp, the bonefish turns and runs straight to the boat, my left hand a blur in furiously winding in line. Another run as it nears the boat – albeit shorter this time – and yet one more of only 100 feet or so, and the tired fish finally lets me bring it alongside the boat. Rolle cradles the greenbacked blitzer, keeping it in the water upright as he carefully removes the hook. The bonefish, soon calmed and rested, gunned away on its own power, with no damage done on either side of the fishing line. in Actually, that bonefish represented the eighth specimen we released in just over two hours that first morning of our visit. Braden, Destination Fish Associate Editor, caught two as well when not snapping pictures of the action. Arriving at about 9:30 a.m. at a small sound on South Bimini, Rolle opined that the rising sun had already warmed the water temperature on the flat to the point that most fish will be in the surrounding deeper cuts and channels to keep cooler.
Bonefish Bunches
DestinationFish.travel
i n the Moments after saying that, he spotted a huge school of bonefish in a channel alongside the island. Amazingly, the bonefish tailed even in this deeper water. “They can spot things better at the surface,” says Rolle. My first cast of the trip resulted in a bonefish catch and release – a healthy six-pound fish. All others weighed at least that much, with one well over eight. We used 10-pound spin tackle, with line tied directly to 1/0 long-shank hooks. Rolle flipped off the heads of the dead shrimp and threaded the body onto the hook up the tail. “Long shanks keep the shrimp straight and look more natural,” says Rolle, “plus it’s harder for bonefish to swallow the long hooks.” The latter equates to lessening the gut-hooking that usually proves fatal. He favors 8-weight gear for fly fishing because double-digit bonefish often can be engaged. Shrimp and crab patterns always get plenty of strikes, and same with Clouser Minnows and Crazy Charlie flies.
Although small lemon sharks will be most interested in the future of a bonefish tethered to a fishing line, a slap of a push pole against the surface evidently conjures negative memories of being goosed on other occasions, sending them yon. On Day 1 we fished from the boat, but the morning of Day 2 found Braden, myself, Rolle and his 11-year-old nephew Edwin Hanna wading a shallow sound off east Bimini. As the tide inched higher on the sand and grass flat, school after school transferred from channels onto the flat, all heading into the current. Since funny water could be spotted at a distance, we could briskly sashay without too much noise to obtain intercept positions for casts. Kelly and I quickly learned to walk when possible on the flatter grassy areas rather than the shifty sand, where on more than one occasion a misstep from the 10-inch flat into a three-foot dune resulted in wet derrieres. We all caught and released bonefish after bonefish, at times blowing out a school with an errant cast but more often than not scoring.
Ü
Midst of Ghosts
bring your camera
You can come to Bimini just for the fishing, but you’ll enjoy it far more as we did by scheduling some time to experience the wonderful character of the people and islands. Although the Infinity Pool at Bimini Bay Resort tempted us to forget about the beach, we’re glad we didn’t do that. Beaches surround the small islands with access just about everywhere. Kelly and I loved walking the expanses of sand, seeing the picturesque rocky outcroppings and all the interesting shells washed onto the tide lines. Divers will greatly appreciate the many options. The Bahamas – famous for vodkaclear waters and huge varieties of corals and tropical fish – quite understandably continues to attract huge numbers of snorkel and scuba divers. Twenty sites provide permanent mooring buoys, and choices include shallow and deep reefs, wrecks, and the Wall. The
below: “eagle eyes” locks onto an approaching school in the distance. right: the veteran guide shows his nephew how to tame a big one.
swim west toward the drop-off is spectacular. Probably the most well-known location is the Bimini Road off North Bimini in only about 20 feet of water, which many find fascinating and quite esoteric due to its ancient but manmade appearance – is it really the Lost City of Atlantis as some claim? The Sapona Wreck, a concrete frame of a boat built by Henry Ford that juts above the surface, affords views of swarms of colorful fish and allows one to actually dive in the underwater structures of the wreck. Tuna Alley, a healthy reef system off North Cat Cay (one of the Bimini islands), is often rated as one of the best dive sites in the Caribbean. Night divers often visit the Kinks, a string of coral heads amid white sand bottom in 50-foot depths.
DestinationFish.travel
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
101
Ü
Midst of Ghosts
bring your camera cont. The Healing Hole can be found amid a
thicket of mangrove trees in a narrow canal accessible by boat near North Bimini. It’s a freshwater pool replenished by a network of underground tunnels containing mineralladen fresh water. Many of those swimming there claim of experiencing cures for ailments and mental rejuvenation. Back on land, the best way to get around Bimini: golf carts. They’re safer when maneuvering the bumpy roads than cars due to lower speeds and narrower widths, and a number of cart rental companies are available. Kelly and I love souvenir shopping. Lots of charming little stores will be open on Queen and King highways except on Sundays, although even then a few roadside venders display shirts, crafts, locally made shell jewelry and other neat items. You might also see the very phone booth on Queen Highway – the main drag through Alice Town – where Dr. Hannibal Lecter made a phone call to FBI Agent Clarice Starling at the end of Silence of the Lambs, telling her about “having an old friend for dinner tonight.” With the Compleat Angler no longer around, most of those seeking Caribbean music, dancing and spirits at night often head to Big John’s in Alice Town. Big John’s, an indoor-outdoor bar crammed on weekend nights with the converging of locals and tourists gyrating on a small dance space, offers a people-watching haven. Boat regattas, festivals and fishing tournaments occur throughout the year. For more information about the Bahamas and Bimini, visit www.bahamas.com. To contact guide Fred Rolle, call 242-743-0580.
102
After numerous battles – some with fish upwards of 10 pounds – our tired bodies returned to the skiff and Fred Rolle aimed the bow homeward. Before arriving in the marina at Bimini Bay Resort and scampering onto the dock, I thanked Rolle for two great half-days of fishing. “We do that all the time,” he says matterof-factly. “Eighteen out of 20 trips, people will catch lots of bonefish and sometimes permit too. On some days we see really big schools of bonefish – 300 to 400 at a time – in the sounds or on the flats. It’s not unusual to catch up to 40 or 50 in a day.”
Difference Decade Makes
what a a
My feet first set upon the Bimini flats 12 years ago, and then as now, I enjoyed topnotch bonefishing. Sad to say, the historic Compleat Angler hotel and bar burned down years ago, a rustic place and a personal favorite of celebrities, politicians and a wide array of characters – savory and otherwise. Ansil Saunders, who I fished with those dozen years ago, still guides these waters and continues to build beautiful wooden skiffs. Yet change is in the air. I seldom get gushy about accommodations, but in this case where we stayed represented much more than just a nice place to sleep. Bimini Bay Resort presented to Kelly and me the type of experience that turns a good trip into a great one. While much of Bimini remains undeveloped and traditional – and that’s a good thing – the new resort occupies a chunk of waterfront property on North Bimini that’s a confluence of the Atlantic Ocean’s Gulf Stream and Great Bahama Bank. While waiting to check-in the first day, we overheard two men who arrived by boat the previous day telling one of the receptionists, “This is one of the best marinas we’ve ever stayed at.” Speaking of the marina, it features 136 floating slips for boats up to 128 feet, with a really convenient Customs & Immigration office on the premises – no waiting to clear customs. A newly dredged harbor will now allow access even by huge yachts, and Bimini Bay is constructing the additional Nautico Yacht Club marina to accommodate up to 205-foot mega yachts – along with its own pool, bar, grill, fitness center and salon. Our one-bedroom villa with a kitchen, living and dining room was about a three-minute walk from one of the coolest pools we’ve ever
DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Fall 2007
seen. Deemed the “Infinity Pool,” the far edge of it looks like it melts into the ocean, making for a truly remarkable sight. The pool and deck areas offer a lovely view of sunsets and boaters. We enjoyed munching conch fritters and dolphin fingers at the Aqua Grille while watching swimmers, sunbathers, sunsets and boaters. You also must try their rum punches and mango daiquiris – the best we’ve ever tasted. We even indulged ourselves one afternoon with really professional deep-tissue massages at poolside by Donna and Natalia – pure heaven. We quickly understood why many of those vacationing at Bimini Bay told us that they’re repeat visitors, especially family members. Besides rentals of single- and multi-room condos, townhouses (known as treehouses) and homes painted in tropical hues, buyers are snapping up many of the properties for ownership and the option of participating in the resort’s rental program. The upcoming additions of the Nautico Yacht Club, a convention center, full-service spa, an 18-hole links-style “Devil’s Triangle Golf Course” designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., a private island all with 30 waterfront homes, a 250-room hotel and casino complex, and a Fisherman’s Village plaza (that will include a bait & tackle shop), all undoubtedly equate to rising values as the property grows. Within the next few years, Bimini Bay Resort will contain about 2,000 units spread over 800 acres. Attracted 20 years ago by Bimini’s natural landscape, Gerardo Capo, the Miami-based developer of Bimini Bay Resort, has strived to provide a resort experience while being proactive in conservation and community projects. Besides the creation of many jobs at the resort, Capo is joint-venturing with the government in building a new school on the island as well as a community activities center with basketball and tennis courts. Antoinette Rolle, one of the representatives We s UN UNITED STA at Bimini Bay Resort and a lifelong Bimini STATES resident, is a fountain of interesting tidbits. She knows everyone on the island along with the Str aits history of each resident and structure, so seek of Flori d a her out if visiting. Her husband, Basil, is also a native mainstay. The day we arrived, Antoinette c er received a letter from a 16-year-old teenager Tro pi c o f CanTro who lives in Spanish Wells, an island well north of Bimini in the Bahamas chain. While walking the family dog on the beach, the girl noted a bottle bobbing in the surf. She Clockwise: ©David A. Brown
i n the
© 19
© 1998 National G DestinationFish.travel
in the fetched it, and found Basil Rolle’s still-dry business card inside. He’d set it afloat off Bimini in 1984. Did the bottle simply float due east to Spanish Wells less than 200 miles away in 23 years, or could it have been swept northward by Gulf Stream waters to circle off northern Africa, where Atlantic currents carried the little bottle across the ocean again to sail northward in the Caribbean Sea and back into the Gulf Stream?
Deep
the
Big-game opportunities still attract billfish anglers and many year-round tournaments. We met Tony Albelo, a Miamian also staying at Bimini Bay Resort. Albelo organizes fishing competitions in the Bahamas and South Florida, and he’s a wellknown figure in these parts. “The 1,000-foot line is only within a mile or so off Bimini,” says Albelo. “You can fish for blue marlin in minutes – trolled lures work great but naked or skirted ballyhoo really get it done on blues.” Other great targets involve kingfish, yellowfin tuna, wahoo and dolphin. “One day, a friend nailed a 66-pound king, a 71-pound black
clockwise
from
right :
the
edge
of
grouper and a nice 67-pound yellowfin,” Albelo adds. “You can catch dolphin year-round, while during winter months just about all boats score on 60-pound-plus wahoo. Bottom fishing for a variety of grouper and snapper – especially muttons during the May spawn on full-moon phases – can be sensational.” On a previous visit I took part in a yellowtail snapper outing. We found inviting reefs in 80 feet of water south of the islands, anchored, put out the chum bags, and free-lined cut squid and chunks of cooked shrimp in the chum slick. I’ve never caught so many flag-size ‘tails, with most averaging a chunky three pounds. I’ll also never forget an unexpected occurrence just off Bimini when trolling “The Wall” on the edge of the Gulf Stream for blue marlin. A wahoo uncharacteristically came to the surface and smashed a jet-head lure. The captain put the boat in neutral momentarily so that the line could be wound in, leaving the other top-water lures in the spread to slowly sink in the blue-green water. Lulled by the inactivity, we all jumped about a foot in the air when one of the flat-line rods shook like it had been struck by lightning. Did it hang up
Midst o f Ghosts
on the bottom, we wondered? No ... astonishingly, a huge 75-pound black grouper apparently rose from the depths and viciously chomped the marlin lure as if attacking an invader. Barely able to pull the arched trolling rod from the gunnel holder, I sweated like a marathon runner in the tropical sun while pumping and winding, and my stamina barely lasted long enough to finally work that big fish to the boat.
the
infinity pool provides a relaxing perch to watch shoreline boaters ; bimini children learn to be engaging and friendly at an early age ; the marina at bimini bay resort can host even big yachts .
Little Abaco I. Gran d Little Gran d Bahama I. Abaco I. Bahama I. We s t En d Ma rs h Har b ou r st En d ITED Fre e por t Ma rs h Har b ou r Fre e por t ATES C he r oke e Sou n d Abaco I. C he r oke e Sou nd Abaco I.
BAHAMAS BAHAMAS 0 50 mi 0 0
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