Issue Nine
2018
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P U B LI S H E R
RANGE
RANGE ISSUE SUMMER
09 2018
E D I TO R I A L D I R E CTO R
THISISRANGE.COM
Jeanine Pesce
@THISISRANGE
jeanine@thisisrange.com
#RANGEMAG
A R T D I R E CTO R / D E S I G N E R
Jonathan Cammisa jon@thisisrange.com
A S S I S TA N T A R T D I R E C T O R
Jon Loudon M A N AG I N G E D I TO R
Alex Gomes alex@thisisrange.com
E D I TO R
Nina Stotler
ON THE COVER:
nina@thisisrange.com
VILDE ROLFSEN
SOCIAL MEDIA / MARKETING
Lisa Dougherty lisa@thisisrange.com
C O N T R I B U TO R S
P H O T O G R A P H E R S / I L L U S T R AT O R S / A R T I S T S
Ryan Brower, Meg Callahan,
Anna Brones
Ali Carr Troxell, Rob Darmour,
Jonathan Cammisa
Shannon Davenport, Lisa Dougherty,
Emily Hoy
Michael Finn, Austyn Gaffney,
Adam Kingman
Johnie Gall, Bobby Gill, Alex Gomes,
Delaney Maher
Emily Hopcian, Mara Johnson-Groh,
Amanda Sandlin
Chloé Lepeltier, Simone Martin-
Chimera Singer
Newberry, Jonnah Perkins, The Roving Dears, Shawnté Salabert, Jeffrey Silverstein, Tabea Soriano, Kalin Stewart, Nina Stotler
PR I NTE D I N CANADA O n 1 0 0 % po s t - con s u m er
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rec y c l ed paper
Amanda Sandlin, Desert Moon Child, 34/100 By being transparent and sharing her success stories and failures as both an artist and entrepreneur, Amanda proves you don’t need an art degree to pursue your passion. Her latest series #100daysofindependentstudy invites community members to embrace the entire creative process and feel empowered by it.
No stranger to throwing caution to the wind, multidisciplinary artist Amanda Sandlin has come to appreciate the challenge and hidden rewards of being an unconventional artist. A self-taught designer and illustrator, Amanda captures art in nature centered on the bravery and vulnerability that comes with being a modern outdoor woman in the wild. Intricate illustrations are layered over abstract paintings or photographs, creating refined and unconventional bodies of work.
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FOREWORD The Life Cycle
Our Summer 2018 issue is dedicated to sustainability. Sustainability means creating balance by avoiding a depletion of natural resources. This strategy can be applied to our physical environment as well as the mental spaces we create, which are often overstimulated and digitally dependent. In a perfectly mindful world, our personal time and energy would be considered just as precious as the forests and water in the lands we also take for granted. Our mental energy is a critical resource and we should all strive to incorporate rituals into our daily routines that can help bridge the gap between being available and being present. Issue Nine takes a look at several new strategies to preserve this energy, some initiated by the very tech giants that fast tracked society on the road to digital dependence. In every part of our lives, we're programmed to think we need more. Mindless purchases conveniently clickable from our devices. More status and stability sought via packages delivered to our doorsteps. How can we build a more sustainable life cycle while navigating this constant need to consume and connect? RANG E spoke to a series of experts who can fill us in on tactics for buying less and buying better, creating a compilation of real-life tools for our readers. Our personal habits may be powerful, but we must ultimately hold ourselves accountable for the collective actions of our communities. As change agents, we must challenge brands to think globally while acting locally because small, sensible adjustments adopted on a worldwide scale will have a huge impact both today and tomorrow. In Issue Nine, we're also lifting the curtain on what brands can do to create sustainable products and breaking down the true meaning behind those "eco-conscious" labels you see every day. When it comes to ecology, economics, politics and culture, sustainability shouldn't be a privilege or an unachievable ideal. It must be realized as our human right and a new standard for considered living. This issue will explore personal narratives, photo essays and illustrations dedicated to preserving the planet and our sense of self within this boundless ecosystem.
-Jeanine Pesce, Editorial Director
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ack in 2012, I wrote about the
Plaza and amid growing consumer concern
Throughout our work over the past two years,
state of ethical fashion in a col-
with the environment, of both companies and
the biggest opportunity and challenge for
umn for GOOD Magazine. This
their customers taking the provenance of their
achieving true sustainability lies with incorpo-
piece looked at the complex na-
clothing into account. The complexity of de-
rating the following into business operations:
ture of defining the words “ethical” and “sus-
fining “ethical fashion,” or what we call “inte-
tainable,” in terms of how these designations
grated sustainability,” remains because these
may resonate with or misguide consumers
considerations add a new layer to the existing
and the industry as a whole.
profit-driven, bottom-line approach to doing business. Ethical and sustainable also mean
The Ethical Fashion Forum, a U.K.-based non-
vastly different things to different companies.
profit organization, holds ethical fashion to a definition of the following “triple bottom line:” • Social: “Increasing the capacity and well-being of the people and communities behind fashion.” • Environmental: “Minimizing the environmental impact of all business operations, throughout the supply chain." • Commercial: “Without a robust financial business model, none of the above can be achieved… A sustainable approach includes quality products or services that meet market needs and demands and are fairly marketed.”
In most instances, this complexity is not a problem. Compliance is the bare minimum a company can, and should, strive for. We be-
• Leadership buy-in: Company culture and commitments start at the top. • Transparency: An overused buzzword, but a serious subject that has actual implementation along the supply chain is crucial. • Establishment of goals: These must follow the SMART acronym (specific, measurable, achievable, relevant, time-bound).
lieve simple compliance does not qualify as a sustainability program. However, it's important to map out sustainability efforts, by which we mean social, environmental and internal culture considerations, in a caseby-case approach meaningfully aligned with individual business strategies and available resources. Very few companies can realistically tackle every issue.
Since I first investigated these terms, my business partners and I founded Futuremade, a brand integrity and sustainable innovation agency. Over the past five years, we've seen a significant uptick, particularly after Rana
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SUST
To reach these goals, leadership must prioritize
One of the latest emerging trends is a height-
There is an inherent value when allocating
resources for implementing and staffing such
ened interest from marketing teams that want to
marketing
initiatives, which can include: aligning with
tell their sustainability story, but need something
because we're no longer simply addressing
the United Nation’s Sustainable Development
tangible to communicate. We rarely encourage
“compliance,” “corporate social responsibility”
Goals, participating in industry organizations
companies to lead with a one-off, well-polished
and “sustainability” via legal departments with
and making use of their benchmarking tools,
sustainability story. Consumers targeted with
limited budgets, but making these subjects part
auditing supply chains, and hiring or involving
such campaigns are savvy and starting to seri-
of the larger strategy discussion. Long term, we
specialists. Apparel and product companies
ously consider not only who made their clothes,
think these efforts must live on as a new and
have similar bottlenecks establishing new pro-
but also where the fabric came from, which
separate operating expense line item, a cost in-
cesses and efficiency tools to address these
chemicals were used in the process, and what
herent in doing business and driving a brand’s
issues are ubiquitous. But it isn't a one-size-
overall environmental impact their clothes will
overall strategy. Marketing strategy should
fits-all answer, as the approach and solutions
have in the future. If a company is pushing out
simply follow such actual goals, if addressing
working in conjunction with business direction
a sustainability story without doing the heavy
them at all. Sustainability itself should be a way
are infinitely unique to each company.
lifting of investing in supply chain transparency,
of doing business: imperative, permanent and
the consumers will know.
beyond trends.
budgets
toward
“sustainability”
AINABILITY 7
by Tabea Soriano
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REI and their Vendors Collaborate on Sustainability Standards by Emily Hopcian I M AG E S C O U R T E SY O F R E I
C
reating more sustainable products is complex, and shopping with sustainable intent can be just as challenging. That’s why REI and its brand partners are working together to create more sustainable products, increase social and environmental
impact, and educate to make it easy for customers to shop their values. “Transparency is important,” says Matt Thurston, Director of Sustainability at REI, “but you can’t expect every person dropping into a store on their way out to the trail to take the time to do research. So we’re trying to make that information easily available for them.” With more than 1,000 brand partners and 17 million members, REI plays a unique role bringing the values of their members directly to brands while working with companies to support a better way for them to do business. Thurston says, “At the crux of the standards is unlocking permission on both ends to really merge shared values so customers who are passionate about sustainability in the outdoors
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have an opportunity to work with brands who
Rachel Lincoln, Director of Sustainability &
NEMO Equipment is among the smaller com-
are passionate about creating more sustain-
PCT ops at prAna, believes this collaboration
panies collaborating with REI. Theresa Conn,
able products.”
among brands is essential. “We all realize no
NEMO Supply Chain & Sustainability Coordi-
one can do it alone,” she says. “We have a
nator, says, “I think a lot of companies, espe-
Products have been created more sustain-
common interest, and to make change, we
cially in our industry, want to do the right thing,
ably through both the REI Co-op and Co-op
have to come together.”
but don’t really know what that is or where to
Cycles brands for years. Over time, REI con-
start. I think the power of these standards is
sidered how to use its experience to engage
Using internal and external feedback, Thurston
the education of what the industry is aligned
a broader community and make a positive
says the standards were rewritten a dozen
around and what the best practices are.”
impact. In early 2016, the company formally
times before the final public release in April
committed a long-range body of work and
2018. REI’s standards contain three main
Conn adds that standards help provide
staffing support to make these goals a reality.
components: value statements, brand expec-
groundwork for brands to inform what their
tations and preferred product attributes.
next steps can be. For REI, this is just the
As part of this process, REI spoke with vendors
to
shape
product
beginning. With input from vendors and mem-
sustainability
Some of these standards went into effect im-
bers, the product sustainability standards will
standards and formed a task force of ap-
mediately, “picking up on expectations we’ve
continue to evolve and improve.
proximately 60 outdoor industry brands of
had in our contractual agreement with brands
various sizes and categories. When it comes
for years,” Thurston says. In late 2020, most of
“We want to use this as a starting point and go
to sustainability, collaboration is the name of
the remainder will go into effect, based on an
find those technologies, products and brands
the game.
understanding of long production lead times.
with innovative, novel ways of tackling environmental challenges,” Thurston says. “Our belief
“That notion of bringing others along with
REI is now focused on engaging, educating
is that the greatest business opportunities of
us is really just core to the ethos of the
and continuing vendor collaboration. In the
today are in tackling environmental and social
cooperative,” Thurston says. “I think it gets
process, they’re supporting brands to become
issues—finding solutions to things getting in
back to the roots of R E I and why and how
more sustainable with a guidebook of resourc-
the way of living a good life.”
we were founded.”
es, expert advice articles and live networking sessions with third-party certification programs.
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T R A C E T H E
C I T Y
Seven Principles for Considered Living in Any Environment
Words + Images by Simone Martin-Newberry
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I
live in a big city. My Chicago apartment sits perched on the second floor, parallel to power lines and arched street lights that switch on at the first sign of dusk. From my living room every day, I watch rush hour swell and construction workers drill. I hear the squeaky brakes of the city bus and the rumbling echo of the elevated train line. Life on my block is often loud, hectic and dirty. But it can also be quiet and gentle. Over the years, I’ve come to mark the passing of the seasons using the bird calls that warble in the urban tree canopy. During regular hikes around my neighborhood, I’ve learned the names and locations of native plants, recognizing the rattle of their seed pods in an autumn wind, the shape of their winter skeleton branches, the scent of their spring flowers, and the perfect, vibrant summer green of their foliage. I’ve always deeply loved the outdoors and my choice to live in a city has never gotten in the way of that. I chose the city because my community and my work are here. Living in the city has challenged and tested me, but it’s also opened me up and made me who I am. I want to remain considerate of a place that has given me so much. As an Earth-minded city dweller, I’ve developed a few guidelines over the years to help me stay observant and compassionate with the lightest footprint possible. You may be familiar with the seven Leave No Trace Principles, which have helped outdoor enthusiasts recreate in nature responsibly since the 1960s as a set of standards to minimize human impact on the outdoors. City dwellers can also use the principles to move through our streets more thoughtfully and sustainably with more consideration for both our human and non-human neighbors. We may not live in protected nature preserves, but our cities deserve respect and consideration. May we all keep these principles in mind as we travel through the world, whether it’s on dusty trails or sparkling city sidewalks.
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We may not live in protected nature preserves, but our cities, deserve respect and consideration.
your donated items will actually end up. Opt for
Plan Ahead and Prepare
Travel on Durable Surfaces
Think about the impact of your choices, buy less
Reduce our effects on the environment by
vegetables. Purchase pantry items in bulk using
and bring what you need.
sticking to well-trodden areas.
your own bags and canisters.
Urban life is a convenient life. Every option is at
While traveling in the wild, it’s important to stay
I've been known to carry recyclables around with
our fingertips and anything we could possibly
on the trail. In the city, use main arterial streets
me for hours until finding a proper place to dis-
want can be acquired immediately or delivered to
and seek out public transportation and carpools.
pose of them. Bringing your reusable bottle with
our door within hours. Fast food and fast fashion
Moving in packs means the carbon impact of your
you is ideal when you’re outside of the house, but
in shopping districts battle for our attention and
travel will be shared and distributed between all
if you need to dispose of something, always do so
dollars, but the personal and global consequenc-
passengers.
responsibly. If you can recycle an item, never put it
es of these bargains are glossed over and quickly
food with little to no packaging like fresh fruits and
in the garbage.
forgotten. Every choice we make, from the food
If you’re lucky enough to have forest preserves
we put in our bodies to the products we buy, has
or protected natural habitats in or near your city,
Compost as much of your organic food waste as
an impact. Do your research. Buy from fair trade
enjoy the area the way urban planners and park
possible. Use compost bins if your city provides
sources. Support companies with sustainable and
designers intended. Don’t take shortcuts through
them. Research compost drop-offs at your local
transparent supply chains. DIY instead. Share,
sensitive vegetation and don’t hop fences or tres-
farmers market or food co-op. Join forces with
borrow and lend.
pass on private property to get better views.
neighbors or friends to create community compost piles in your backyards.
Avoiding single-use plastics is crucial and gets easier with practice. Buy in store instead of online
Dispose of Waste Properly
whenever you can. Dine in to avoid takeout pack-
Take responsibility for the waste you make or
Leave What You Find
aging. I never leave home without my collapsible
don’t generate it at all.
The beauty of the city belongs to all of us. Love the place you live.
tote bag. Consider bringing a small dining kit with you and keep one in your office or car. A sample kit
The less you consume, the less you’ll need to
could include a stainless steel water bottle, small
throw away. The best way to get rid of garbage is
Just as you would in the backcountry, leave the
insulated thermos or double walled cup, glass
not making any in the first place. Use, fix and reuse
environment as you found it. No wildflower picking
tupperware, bamboo utensils and a cloth napkin.
household and personal items. Research where
or leaf yanking. No carving initials into tree trunks
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or building graffiti.
summer, or pile on the blankets when it’s cold and carry a hand fan when it’s hot.
Be Considerate of Other Visitors Think about how your actions affect others.
Leave your mark in other ways. Record your experiences in urban nature. Invite others to join you
Disconnect from the grid regularly. Turn off your
Love the people in your city as much as you
on long walks. Share a community garden plot
phone, open your eyes, and go for a walk around
love the city itself.
with a friend. Teach a child the name of the weed
the block.
growing beside their front stoop. Tell your story
Never litter. If you see any litter, even if it isn't on
and the stories of the folks who came before you.
your street or in your neighborhood, pick it up.
Minimize Energy Use
Respect Wildlife You have a lot more neighbors than you think.
Step up and share the responsibility for maintaining the beauty of our public spaces.
This is their home, too.
Be thoughtful considering where your energy
Slow down. Say hello. Hold the door for the
comes from and where it goes. Treat as the
Learn about the plants and animals in your area.
person behind you. Help a stranger. Support a
precious resource it is.
Welcome and admire them. Learn their habits and
friend of a friend. Participate in another culture.
patterns. Give them space to grow and thrive.
Acknowledge and celebrate differences. Be kind
Outside cities, this principle applies to respon-
and curious. Every day, we make our cities what
sible fire practices, but at home, it’s likely you’ll
Create places for migrating birds and butterflies
they are with every choice we make. Help make
be flipping a switch rather than lighting a match.
to stop along their journey. Plant milkweed in a
your city a place you’re proud to live in by becom-
Remember all energy comes from somewhere
sunny spot. Line vegetable plots with flowers to
ing the neighbor you’d be proud to have.
and has an environmental impact, which you can
sustain bees and other pollinators.
mitigate by using renewable energy sources.
Recognize the part you play, but be gentle with
Look into the options in your area and how they
You may think you live in a concrete grid, but there
yourself. Keep these guidelines in mind as you
vary whether you rent or own your home.
is an entire ecosystem expanding and contracting
move through your daily city life, but acknowl-
around you every day. Remember you’re a single
edge you’re doing your best. If we all share
Be conscious of how much energy you use and
member of one species in your environment. Be
these responsibilities, we can build vibrant and
reduce your consumption. Turn lights off when
a gracious guest.
fulfilling lives, whether we’re traversing an urban
you leave a room. Unplug unused electronics.
landscape, backpacking deep in the wild, or any-
Keep thermostats lower in winter and higher in
where in between.
I’ve always nurtured a deep love of the outdoors, and choosing to live my life in a city has never gotten in the way of that.
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ART FOR THE OCEANS Creativity as a Change Agent Words + Art by Delaney Maher
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enice, California designer and environmentalist Delaney Maher spends her days building brand identities and raising awareness about plastic pollution. Her latest collection is a culmination of her three greatest influences: famed Los Angeles artist Ed Ruscha, world-renowned oceanographer Sylvia Earle, and legendary fine artist Henri Matisse. Delaney believes visual art is an underutilized avenue for change and she employs an abstract approach to her designs with the intent of educating the public on single-use plastic alternatives while advocating on behalf of our marine environment. m.
h
ma
tio
ec
ull
rf
w Vie

he
ll co
t na
de
la
y ne
co er.
CORAL BLEACHING
SHIF TING PLATES
SINGLE USE
MICROPLASTICS
OZONE DEGRADATION
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I MAG E S C O U RTE SY O F SW I FT I N D U STR I E S
SWIFT INDUSTRIES 10 Years of Adventuring on Two Wheels
What inspired you to start the brand? When we started Swift Industries, there weren’t any bicycle bags for commuting and adventuring that looked rad. All of the companies making really functional bicycle bags were producing generic styles in institutional colors. It was time for something fresh, for bags that fit the aesthetics of young, urban users without compromising on function. Swift has played a big role in bike-camping. Why is it important to the brand, what do you love about it, and how do your products facilitate bike-camping adventures? Bike-camping is central to our company because traveling by bicycle has been an important catalyst for self-discovery and sense of place for both
by Alex Gomes
me and my co-founder Jason Goodman. It’s hard to convey my sense of liberation when starting bicycle touring. From covering territory using my own strength, to the intimate nature of the bicycle’s pace and proximity to communities and landscapes, it completely won me over. We believe traveling by bicycle is restorative, inspiring and generative. Our bags are tools designed
T
here’s a different kind of freedom you experience when you’re preparing to explore your surroundings on a bike rather than in a car. Just give your tires a squeeze, pack a pannier, and pedal onward. Swift Industries has made twowheeled excursions even more accessible by creating stylish and functional products facilitating and inspiring people to go on environmentally friendly adventures. Celebrating their 10th anniversary in 2018, Swift has significantly evolved from their humble beginnings when the company was founded by Martina Brimmer at just 25-years-old with $300 and a sewing machine. Now heading up a globally recognized independent outdoor brand, Martina believes one of the keys to the brand's success is personal growth.
to facilitate and inspire the immersive exploration of adventuring by bicycle.
"Are you ready for real talk? The entrepreneur community seldom speaks to the evolving personal, creative and emotional needs of company founders,” says Martina. “What’s most important for me is the fact I'm one of a true minority of female entrepreneurs in the bicycle and outdoor industries. I’ve built a company from the ground up, which has had the dynamism and agility to sustain me as I get to know myself again and again.”
The environmental benefit we all initially think of is reducing fuel consumption
How do you design products to encourage people to ride their bikes more? We design bags that enhance the bicycling experience with functional features making cyclists more capable, nimble and free to move independently. A stellar example is the backpack conversion on our Roll Top Panniers. The magic of a pannier is the bicycle does the heavy-lifting, liberating the rider from weight. Freedom of movement shouldn’t stop when getting off the bicycle. We took the assignment one step further by adding backpack straps to our Roll Top Panniers so the bag is as comfortable and easy to carry off bike as on. Why is it important more people cycle as a mode of transportation? and emissions. When we opt to pedal for transportation, we improve air quality, but we also reduce demand for expansion of oil extraction. Broadening our definition of environmental benefits to cities, we’re talking about decreasing congestion, noise and chaos of traffic. Imagine how much green space could be freed by reducing demand for parking lots? Then there is the physical health and well-being of citizens in our communities. The positive impacts of bicycling on quality of life are significant on both the large and individual scale. It’s really impressive.
Real talk, indeed. We recently caught up with Martina to learn about the origins of Swift, their products promoting travel by bicycle, and the importance of encouraging more people to adventure on two wheels.
Dedicated to S.J. Brooks. In loving memory and endless gratitude for the lessons you taught me in our short time sharing a path on this wild and beautiful Earth. You remain in every mountain top, pine tree and forest path. —MARTI NA B R I M M E R
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Words + Images by Chimera Singer
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“Each and every person took the very same “I was here” photo before moving on to make room for the next visitor. ”
D
uring a 2016 trip to Iceland, I found myself photographing
and studying my fellow visitors instead of the landscapes. Tourists from China, Germany, Israel and the United States took turns striking classic selfie poses in front of rocks, a waterfall or single-engine airplanes. No one spoke during this repetitive shuffle, not even to ask, “Can you please step out of my photo?” Each and every person took the very same “I was here” photo before moving on to make room for the next visitor. Not one of them looked up to feel and smell the rain or paused to listen for the elves famously rumored to hide in the rocks. The images that make up this series are partially distorted by a filmy layer, a photo of the respective printed image placed on top of each original digital image. This layer creates distance from the reality of these scenes as a metaphor for our distorted modern perspective as we view printed and digital images, experiencing our lives through the narrow lens of cameras and phones.
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LOOKING FORWARD TO by Lisa Dougherty
T
he Internet is exhausting. Those utopian 1990s dial-up speeds are a distant memory, along with the romance we felt when the World
Wide Web was first introduced just 25 years ago. Now the very idea of being offline for an extended period of time sounds more like a luxury than a realistic possibility. We're connected 24/7, we're distracted, we're absent from our bodies and we're increasingly discontent. We continue to blur the lines between tactical and digital realities. Despite growing evidence that our digital dependency has significant negative physical, mental and cognitive ramifications, we just keep on scrolling. You probably don’t need another person telling you we’re all doomed to become unconscious, screen-thumbing shells of our former selves. You already feel that urgent pull to swipe, type and tap throughout the day. In the time it took me to write these words, I will have looked at my phone an embarrassing number of times to answer texts, look at emails or sift through Instagram. But when we stop to consider our current relationship with technology, we can’t help but wonder how attached we really are to our digital devices. While it’s a hard subject to get a handle on, we pulled some numbers for perspective. The results? It’s not pretty, folks.
I MAG E S BY S A R A H K U E
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The rate at which technology is moving intertwines with our obsession to become smarter, faster and more efficient, making it difficult to maintain a positive perspective about the future. But an antidote is developing with a growing movement toward going analog, at least part of the time. People are creating radical ways to reclaim their time and individual consciousness. Digital detox retreats now offer an escape to reconnect with nature and support each other IRL. The very institutions that created social media and iPhones have started to develop well-being initiatives, and ironically, they're also launching apps to counter the impact of heavy social media consumption. All of these new initiatives prove major efforts are being made to counter the effects of technology. Philosopher of media studies Marshall MacLuhan once said, “We shape our tools and therefore our tools shape us." In today’s world, these words ring loud and true. The very instruments we created for convenience and connection are omnipresent in our modern lives. We begin and end our days on digital devices. Research continues to remind us that the impact of our constant screen time is extremely unhealthy. Does knowing the facts make a difference in changing our behavior? And there it is again— that pull to reach for our phones, leading us to ask ourselves if we've lost control. Only time will tell.
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Responsible W Growth with Nest
e consumers pride ourselves on purchasing from brands instituting Fair Trade Certified™ practices, ensuring the well-being of their employees by paying fair wages, improving factory working conditions, and giving back to communities in which they operate. However, many of us, including the brands themselves, are unaware of a significant amount of overall production, and 20 percent to 60 percent of garment manufacturing is subcontracted to artisans working out of their homes where it is difficult to certify these standards.
A Nonprofit Creating Global Opportunities for Artisans by Alex Gomes
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I MAG E S C O U RTE SY O F N E ST
At just 24-years-old with a recently completed
ness growth. The organization offers a variety
and financial planners, for mentorship projects.
Master’s degree in social work, Rebecca van
of services at no charge connecting the global
These professionals can travel to artisans’ home
Bergen was inspired to increase debt-free eco-
handworker community with brands through
countries or simply provide mentorship remotely
nomic opportunities for women, particularly those
their Nest Sourcing program, matching artisans
from their own desks.
living in challenging environments, and founded
directly. This cuts out middleman brokers in the
the nonprofit organization Nest. “I became in-
marketplace to ensure payment goes directly to
In addition, Nest launched its Standards for
terested in the craft-based economy through a
the artisan business while allowing brands to
Homes and Small Workshops in December
number of forces converging on the unique re-
develop a strong direct partnership. Nest also
2017 at the United Nations in partnership with
lationship between handwork and women. My grandmother was often sewing and my great-grandmother made beautiful quilts,” says van Bergen, now the Executive Director of the organization. “As part of my studies, I traveled to India and noticed how women in the communities were always making things
a steering committee anchored by
Since 2006, Nest expanded from serving
Target, West Elm, PVH, Patagonia,
1,500 handworkers across the globe and
Place. “The Nest Standards are
now reaches 100,000, helping artisans
Eileen Fisher and The Children’s part of a training-first program designed to set artisan businesses
and handworkers access the market and
up for success and each standard
ensuring sustainable business growth.
training that Nest is able to imple-
maps to remediation and further ment,” says van Bergen. “Our goal
with their hands. That link between women and craft struck me as powerful on per-
advises these brands, including Cienne, FEED
is for assessment to be a springboard to change,
sonal and community levels, and as I realized
and Beulah London, with best practices for
not an end in itself.”
with greater research, economic levels as well.
identifying and collaborating with artisan part-
This led me to the idea for Nest.”
ners. Brand employees can support Nest on a more personal level by providing their consult-
Since 2006, Nest expanded from serving 1,500
ing services pro bono through the Professional
handworkers across the globe and now reaches
Fellowship Program, matching promising artisan
100,000, helping artisans and handworkers ac-
businesses with high-level professionals, such
cess the market and ensuring sustainable busi-
as brand strategists, designers, photographers
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Learn more about Nest in our interview with Founder and Executive Director Rebecca van Bergen at thisisrange.com/daily and by visiting the organization’s website at buildanest.org.
CLOSING THE LOOP ON SURFING'S DIRTY SECRET How Britain's Finisterre Intends to Make Wetsuits from Wetsuits by Ryan Brower
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I MAG E S C O U R TE SY O F F I N I STE R R E
F
or surfers, wetsuits are the second most purchased piece
Banks is currently putting in long hours at the Exeter lab to un-
of gear following their boards. But what happens when a
derstand more about neoprene since not much is known about its
wetsuit gets too old, too damaged or too small? Wetsuits
properties. She's started by deconstructing Finisterre's own wet-
are made from neoprene, which is derived from petroleum,
suits to study how the material breaks down.
and thus neoprene is not recyclable. If you take a look inside the garage or closet of a surfer, you’ll likely find a collection
Advancement in wetsuit designs until now have focused mainly
of old wetsuits that have no further use and nowhere to go.
on improving warmth and flexibility, but sustainability hasn't been a primary goal. While commendable efforts are being made by a few
Enter Tom Kay and his British coldwater surf company
select players in the industry, such as smaller brands deriving neo-
Finisterre. The brand has been dedicated to coldwater surfing for 15
prene from limestone or Patagonia's sustainably-grown rubber suits
years and recently became a B Corporation based on their commit-
sourced from a company called Yulex, the majority of wetsuits are still
ment to sustainability. Finisterre's latest project targets the central is-
made from petroleum.
sue of the wetsuit industry: finding a way to make neoprene recyclable. But for Kay, basic efforts towards sustainability are not what he’s “What happens to the product after its natural use? There’s no re-
shooting for and he knows the unknown road ahead won't be easy.
sponsibility taken by the wetsuit industry whatsoever in terms of what
People have told him he won’t be able to do it and many others have
they should do with the suit at the end of its life,” Kay tells me on the
certainly tried and failed.
phone in his charming British accent. “That’s a problem. You can’t throw them away, so what do you do with them?”
“I’m very honest in that we don’t actually know where this is going to go,” Kay says. “But it identifies a problem and our outlook as a brand
In November 2017, Finisterre hired a full-time wetsuit recycler to work
is to address sustainable problems with solutions. The full ambition
with Exeter University’s Materials Reengineering program. Jenny
is to build wetsuits from wetsuits. That’s the ultimate aim. That’s my
Banks is most likely the world’s only officially titled Wetsuit Recycler,
mark in the sand. If we can introduce closed loop, ideally just going
and has a Masters in Material Futures from Central Saint Martins in
around and around and around with minimal addition of new raw
London. Kay calls her a “perfect match” for Finisterre’s goal.
materials, that is the ultimate sort of challenge.”
31
s
te va
no n I s, ity e r lo abil p Ex tain e ac us ts F S rth s its oduc o r N nd P e a nd Th Exp n a cia p s o d m yH l an i a r Em g y o b Pr 32
N
ever Stop Exploring. At The North Face, this mantra runs even
tal impact. While sustainable production is complex and takes time, effort and
deeper than outdoor adventures. Since its founding in 1966, the
money, The North Face’s initiatives have an impact beyond a single company.
brand has embraced innovation and exploration via high quality, du-
The company wants to share these learnings, ideas, standards and best
rable and sustainable products and programs.
practices with consumers and brands across the outdoor industry and other markets around the world.
“We outfit people to go enjoy the outdoors, so we want to make sure those places remain protected and people still have them to visit,” says James Rog-
Rogers says, “Making sure we’re using responsible materials, making sure
ers, Director of Sustainability.
we’re educating the consumer about those choices and allowing them to be empowered by their purchase decisions and extending the life of our prod-
Through research, experience and collaboration, The North Face has innovat-
ucts are key ways we can address the environmental profile of our products.”
ed and expanded both internal and external initiatives to reduce environmen-
Bottle Source Collection
Cali Wool Beanie
The North Face Renewed
The Bottle Source collection tackles sustainability
Fibershed, a nonprofit based in the San Francis-
Launched in June 2018, Renewed is a recom-
from another angle by diverting 160,000 pounds
co Bay Area near The North Face headquarters,
merce program that takes worn, returned, dam-
of plastic bottles from the waste stream in three
challenged the company to create a product with
aged or defective items and cleans and repairs
U.S. national parks to use in their recycled mate-
an entire supply chain that remained local within
them to be sold at a discounted price. This new
rial for T-shirts. The North Face donates $1.00 to
150 miles.
system’s goal is to provide consumers with qual-
the National Park Foundation for every unit made in support of recycling and reuse programs.
ity, durable products with an expanded life cycle, “Our team was really excited about that chal-
which ultimately creates less waste.
lenge,” Rogers says. “It was a really strong learnThrough Bottle Source, The North Face wants
ing experience for us.”
“There are a lot of logistical challenges to get a
to educate consumers, reduce consumption of
program like this up and running,” Rogers says.
single-use plastic bottles and increase recycling
The North Face collaborated with Fibershed to
“We’re really proud of the quality and durability
rates. The team also plans to broaden their re-
source climate-beneficial wool from a local sup-
of our products and that we’re able to offer these
lated recycled supply chains and will expand the
ply chain and began a partnership with northern
items that are like-new at a discounted rate.”
entire product line in fall 2018.
California's Bare Ranch, including a donation of $10,000 for the property to begin building a car-
Sourced from returns to The North Face stores
“Right now in the U.S., only 30 percent of ma-
bon farm plan. Their climate-beneficial wool is used
and wholesale accounts, the team is investigating
terials in a recycling bin actually get recycled,”
to create The North Face Cali Wool Beanie hat and
how to grow the Renewed program by accepting
Rogers says. “We could cut the amount of bot-
the impact of these partnerships is ongoing.
used items directly from consumers and then
tles used in national parks by half, significantly
clean, repair and return the refurbished products
increase the recycling rate and still have plenty of
“In getting the word out about this product, Fi-
bottles for a program like this.”
bershed has gotten a lot of interest from groups globally to start adopting these types of ranching practices,” Rogers says. “That’s really our goal. We want other brands to be able to use these practices. We want other ranches to start adopting them so more people can do this and have a stronger benefit to the environment.”
33
directly to their owners.
be
as
ough
Th u
?
yo
No ht It Mig t
t
Is
s a Eco-friendly
Words + Images by Mara Johnson-Groh
34
I
grew up in a family that strove to be environmentally conscious. We
My cooking fuel and laundry contribute another 69 pounds per year, and a
recycled. We composted. We shut off our lights and turned down the
rough estimate of the annual cost of charging my computer and electronics
heat. When I mobilized and moved into a vehicle, I thought I was doing
brings in another 73. If I include my vegetarian diet, my total carbon footprint
something good for my life and also for the environment. But every
reaches a hefty 6 metric tons. While much lower than the average American
time I get behind the wheel and start the engine, I wonder if I'm really making
footprint of 16.2 tons per year, I still contribute more than the global per
a sustainable choice.
person average of just under 5 tons. If everyone on the planet lived exactly like me, Americans included, we’d still need 1.5 Earths to sustain ourselves.
For over a year, my home has been a trusty and charismatic 1993 Dodge Colt. With two front doors and one sliding side, it looks like the runt off-
The numbers speak for themselves, but aren't hopeless. Vanlife can still be
spring of a Ford Aerostar and a 1980s-era VW Rabbit. With 19 square
more sustainable than houselife, and there are methods to make it even less
feet of living space, it is just under a hundredth of the size of the average
impactful. First, if you’re looking to join the movement, choose a used vehi-
American household. So if my home is the tiniest of tiny houses, my carbon footprint should be a fraction of the standard, right? I sat down one day to crunch some hard numbers and it turns out this reasoning doesn’t add up. As a solo traveler, I knew driving an average of 12,500
In the end, if everyone on the planet lived exactly like me, we’d still need 1.5 Earths to sustain ourselves.
miles a year would be my worse offense to the environment, but also needed to consider my cooking fuel, laundry and
cle. Some studies find that as much as 28 percent of the carbon emissions
electronics charging.
produced over a car’s lifespan stem from its manufacture. Second, bringing a buddy into your vanlife home is a quick way to split your individual expected
From the start, I create 10,000 pounds of carbon every year from my vehi-
gas emissions in half—and stay warm in the winter.
cle’s emissions. In comparison, the Sprinter, the luxury liner of vans, would create 40 percent more carbon traveling the same mileage. Twelve-thousand
My carbon footprint, I should note, isn’t fully inclusive. Much more carbon di-
sounds like a lot of miles, but turns out to be fairly average for vanlifers. A
oxide is spent creating the products I consume and the things I throw away.
recent survey on vanlife done by the Dirty Darlings blog found over half the
On the road, it’s a lot harder to compost and sometimes it’s difficult just to
respondents clock 1,000 to 2,500 miles per month, a similar number cited
find a recycling bin! As it turns out, my previous lifestyle as a bike commuter
by my own friends on the road.
in a shared house had exactly the same carbon footprint as my vanlife tally. But as we become conscious of the impact of our lifestyles, our choices either in our cars or in our homes can make a difference.
35
FOOD toFIBER A Call for Regenerative Sourcing in Outdoor Goods by Bobby Gill
36
37
I MAG E BY J E F F E R S O N C E NTE R FO R H O LI STI C MA NAG E M E NT
T
he United Nation’s Food and Agriculture
The outdoor industry has made great strides by sourcing
Organization projects that our planet has
organic fibers, ensuring fair labor practices, reducing
just 60 harvests left. That’s 60 years at our
pollution, and improving supply chain transparency, but
current rate of soil degradation before we
there’s an opportunity to take sourcing a step further.
completely lose the ability to produce food and fiber.
As creators, distributors and ultimately decision-makers for which fibers end up in the supply chain, brands hold
As stewards and advocates of the outdoors, we raise
the power to support land-regenerating agriculture. The
our fists to fight for wildlife conservation, climate change,
North Face is the first to dabble in regenerative agricul-
healthy food, access to water, public lands, the impover-
ture via their Climate Beneficial wool beanie, a product
ished, animal welfare, and so many other worthy causes.
sourced using Fibershed, a regional group of fiber pro-
So where’s the outcry over how we’re mismanaging our
ducers in northern and central California.
lands into extinction? On the global front, organizations like the Savory InThankfully, there’s a growing movement in agriculture
stitute, which has been teaching regenerative grazing
taking a holistic approach towards land management.
practices for decades, are moving to help brands
Farmers and ranchers are honoring the symbiotic re-
source materials from verified regenerative suppliers.
lationships between land and animal, mimicking the
As a nonprofit with a global network of regenerative
ancestral movement patterns of grazing animals that
farmers, ranchers and pastoralist communities, their
have built and sustained ecological health for millenia.
new Land-to-Market program will measure ecosystem
...they’re not just producing meat, wool, and leather, they’re rebuilding topsoil, sequestering carbon, improving water-holding capacity, and regenerating ecosystems back to health. By doing so, they’re not just producing meat, wool and
health over time to provide verification of regenerative
leather, but they’re also rebuilding topsoil, sequestering
claims that outdoor brands can make. This will give
carbon, improving water-holding capacity, and regener-
companies access to farmers practicing the gold stan-
ating ecosystems back to health. As advocates of the
dard of land stewardship, as well as robust empirical
outdoors, you'd expect to find more products in our
data supporting regenerative claims and ability to use a
market that are sourced directly from those following
consumer-facing certification mark indicating that they
this gold standard of land stewardship. Why doesn't
can trust these verified ecological outcomes.
the wool and leather used to make our outdoor goods reflect our values?
Once consumers have the ability to trust the sustainability claims brands are making and distinguish
The food industry, having long promoted sustainability,
regenerative products from their destructive alterna-
has taken notice. Merely sustaining our existence using
tives, we'll create a beautiful unity across all industries.
the current system is not enough. Brands like EPIC Bar
Foodies, environmentalists, fashion consumers and
and Patagonia Provisions are already moving beyond
outdoor enthusiasts alike will be able to vote for regen-
sustainability to embrace regenerative agriculture. By
erative food and regenerative fiber with their purchas-
sourcing raw materials that provide a net positive to the
ing dollars. In turn, we'll be restoring ecosystems back
environment, they’re supporting farmers and addressing
to health and buying ourselves more time on the planet
ecological, economic and social issues simultaneously.
we hold so dear.
38
39
I MAG E BY E P I C P R OV I S I O N S
I M AG E BY WH I TE H O R S E PASTU R E S
CORDURA ® X MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR
Live Durable Diaries 40
"Live Durable means I have the confidence to do what I love every day."
K
I MAG E S BY AN G E LA PAYN E
™
yra Condie is one seriously dura-
her eye on the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo.
"I need apparel that can keep up with me and it's
ble woman. As a professional rock
Considering her achievements and ability to over-
really important to have a durable fabric that holds
climber for over a decade, Kyra
come seemingly insurmountable obstacles, Kyra
up against the rock face. As a Mountain Hardwear
spent her youth scaling playground
knows what it means to Live Durable™.
athlete, I was excited to hear they partnered with CORDURA® to
jungle gyms and summiting the fridge in her mom’s kitchen. But climbing didn’t come easily to this
"Live Durable™ means I have
tough Minnesota native. Diagnosed with childhood
the confidence to do what I
and so easy to climb in. Plus, I
Idiopathic Scoliosis and a 72-degree spinal curve,
love every day, even if that
can go from the crag to dinner,
climbing became almost impossible for Kyra be-
includes overcoming the
and feel good in them."
cause an entire section of her back couldn’t bend
elements to get outside. It
or twist. At 12, she endured surgery to straighten
means I can push myself
her spine and fuse 10 of her vertebrae.
harder, so I can climb higher and reach the goals I've set
Kyra was devastated at the thought of never
for myself."
make jeans that are so durable
Not only are these jeans tough—four times tougher than traditional 100 percent cotton denim*—but they also have a softer
climbing again, but instead of giving up on her
side thanks to the CORDURA® brand
passion, the four-month post-surgical recovery fu-
Whether putting up technical climbs at the
eled Kyra’s determination and she fully committed
gym or solving a complex route while bouldering,
comfort, stretch and breathability. So, if you're
to the sport. In spite of her physical limitations,
Kyra needs clothing that meets the needs of her
interested in climbing like Kyra Condie, with style,
she became an excellent problem solver and
rigorous routine. Mountain Hardwear's new Hard
elegance and irrepressible determination, head
found new and unique ways to compensate and
Denim, built with CORDURA® Denim fabric, is
over to CORDURA.com/50years to learn more
move her body. She focused on strength and core
exactly what she's been waiting for. Made with a
about Mountain Hardwear's Hard Denim, built to
training as well as a regimented approach to diet.
blend of cotton and nylon, CORDURA® Denim
last with CORDURA® brand technology.
commitment to innovation, with enhanced
fabric retains the authentic look and feel of traMore than a decade later and with six USA
ditional cotton denim, but with added toughness
Climbing Nationals wins under her belt, Kyra has
and abrasion resistance.
41
*Martindale testing based on 13.75 oz. denim fabric
he aisles of your local gear shop
Here we offer a guide to the words,
are full of strange words like “veg-
phrases, certifications and organizations
an leather,” “Fair Trade Certified™”
making up the expanding lexicon of the
and “BPA-free.” These words clearly have
world’s environmental awakening. Learn
something to do with sustainability and
them and you’ll become a bonafide ex-
saving the planet, but do you know what
pert in buying green.
they really mean?
42
An international coalition of businesses,
Overseen by a Swiss group, the bluesign®
nonprofits and individuals donating at least 1
certification indicates a company’s entire
A realistic goal all individuals, companies and
percent of sales or salary to environmental
textile supply chain meets stringent
countries should strive for. If an entity is carbon-
causes. Since 2002, 1% for the Planet has
environmental standards. The system is based
neutral, its carbon footprint is zero and it’s
pumped more than $175 million back into the
on five principles: resource productivity,
neither adding nor removing carbon from the
environment. Outdoor brands view the little blue
consumer safety, water emissions, air
environment. To become carbon-neutral requires
logo as a badge of honor and you should, too.
emissions, and occupational health and safety.
changing everyday habits and purchasing
Because the textile industry puts an enormous
decisions and most importantly, an unshakeable
amount of stress on the environment, the
belief we can affect positive change.
bluesign® badge carries more weight than An extremely effective empty and often
other general certifications.
meaningless label marketers use to sell you things like veggie bacon and
Next time you tear a rain jacket or snap a tent
biodegradable soap.
pole, remember broken gear can almost always A particularly nasty chemical linked to cancer,
be easily and cheaply repaired. Patches look
infertility, heart disease, birth defects and more
cool, stickers hide blemishes, and duct tape tells
used to make water bottles, food containers and
a story. Take care of your possessions and they’ll
The belief animals shouldn’t suffer at the hand
other plastic products. Look for “BPA-free” and
live longer.
of humans. If you buy a product that makes
avoid products with the recycling numbers 3, 4
“humane” or “cruelty-free” claims, chances are
and 7, which indicate presence of BPA.
the animal who helped make it is alive and well. Any chemistry professor will tell you that everything in the universe is made of chemicals, including that organic kombucha Designation referring to for-profit companies
you drank last week. “Chemical-free”
meeting rigorous standards of social and
The holy grail of sustainability. If an entity is
sometimes means less scary lab-made
environmental performance, accountability and
carbon-negative, it’s going far beyond reducing
chemicals you can’t pronounce, but for the
transparency. The standards are set by B Lab,
its carbon footprint to zero—it’s actively
most part, it’s a word without substance.
a Pennsylvania nonprofit founded in 2006.
removing carbon dioxide from the environment.
There are currently over 2,500 certified B Corps
Becoming carbon-negative requires proactive
spanning 50-plus countries and
and prolonged efforts, such as planting trees or
130-plus industries. Prominent
generating renewable energy. The only large-
B Corps in the outdoor industry include Cotopaxi,
scale carbon-negative entity is Bhutan, a tiny kingdom in the Eastern Himalayas.
Patagonia, Kammok,
An enormously complex U.S. law governing water pollution as of 1972—or 1948, depending who you’re asking—and one of the oldest, most important environmental laws in the country.
Klean Kanteen
Without it, companies could freely dump toxic
and United
waste into our oceans, lakes, rivers and streams
By Blue.
just to save an extra buck.
The defining issue of our time and an irrefutable truth many misinformed people are actively trying to challenge, i.e. the reason we’re publishing this article in the first place.
43
A small household vessel speeding up the decomposition of organic matter. In go banana peels and compostable coffee cups, out comes nutritious soil for your plants.
The outdoor industry’s favorite hydrophobic chemical is bad for the planet and also has a misleading name. It’s not really “durable” at all—crunching or scuffing DWR-treated fabric wears it out, meaning you have to spend more
A way of life. Get to know the brands who make
money every few months on Nikwax to keep
the things you buy. Do they align with your
your rain jacket or tent water-resistant. But the
values? If not, don’t give them your money. If
worst part? DWR contains nasty chemicals
they do, give them your money, but only when
called perfluorinated compounds, which pollute
necessary. Buy smarter and buy less.
ecosystems and wreak havoc on organisms for many, many years.
A group of over 200 companies using membership dues to fund grassroots
Scraps that fall off the assembly line and are
environmental organizations, which was
repurposed to make a product. Cotopaxi does
founded in 1989 by REI, Patagonia, The
this well and many more are following suit.
North Face and Kelty with an original mission to strengthen the bond between the outdoor industry and conservation. Today that relationship has never been stronger and has helped save 51 million acres of wilderness and
Three words reaching far beyond your Whole
An international organization promoting
3,102 miles of rivers, purchased 13 climbing
Foods produce section. Any product deemed
responsible management of the world’s forests.
areas, designated five marine reserves, and
fair trade—a designation doled out by four
Every minute, about 36 football fields of trees
stopped or removed 30 dams.
nonprofit organizations like Fair Trade USA—
are lost to deforestation and every day, 200,000
places emphasis on economic well-being of
acres of rainforest, an area 14 times the size of
the indigenous workers who helped make
Manhattan, is burned. An FSC-certified product
it. Companies selling fair trade goods pay
follows 10 principles encompassing sustainable
producers a premium going directly to the
logging practices, workers’ rights, pollution
A relatively new belief that for-profit companies
workers and their communities. By purchasing
control and more.
must be a force for good. Many are finding
fair-trade goods, you are saying hell no to
that standing up for social and environmental
reckless corporate profiteering and hell yes to
causes builds customer loyalty and can
basic human decency.
increase profits. Patagonia is the best-known An international ecological and social standard
exemplar of this strategy.
for the production of organic textiles. A Universal animal rights meant to protect all animals under human control, including: freedom from hunger and thirst; freedom from discomfort; freedom from pain, injury or disease; freedom from fear and distress; and freedom
product’s entire supply chain must conform to a long list of rules regarding the use of toxic bleaches, dyes and many other chemicals, as well as guidelines for workers’ rights. Among the world’s strictest industrial standards, it's not to be confused with USDA Organic, a much weaker certification only concerning use of chemicals in agriculture.
to express normal behavior. This is not an official certification or product label badge, but
The shady practice of misleading consumers to
a simple and powerful belief
believe something is “green” when it’s anything
influencing the decisions of individuals and companies all over
but. Most U.S. consumers are willing to pay more for a peaceful conscience and marketers know it. If a company can’t make genuine claims
the planet.
about a product’s greenness, it simply splashes the product with green paint and propaganda. Don’t be swindled.
44
creatures, etc. So next time you’re asked, “Paper or plastic?” hopefully you’ll say, “Neither,” A miracle crop freely cultivated by humans for
A tell-tale sign a product is well-made with
over 8,000 years until the 1930s, when some
durable materials. Whatever it is, you’ll probably
powerful assholes decided it posed a threat to
enjoy it forever. That’s good news for your wallet
their business empires and moved to outlaw
and the planet.
because you brought your own reusable bags.
industrial hemp production in the U.S where it remains federally illegal today. Industrial hemp
A supply chain whose raw materials, facilities,
has over 50,000 uses and is one of the most
labor and more are, to some degree, open to
eco-friendly resources on the planet.
The responsible alternative to conventional
public scrutiny. Not long ago, hardly anyone
cotton, one of the world’s most environmentally
gave a damn about where cotton came from or
and socially destructive cash crops grown
how backpacks were made. That’s changing
and processed using a staggering amount
and companies are realizing if they don’t go
of chemicals, such as synthetic fertilizers,
transparent, curious consumers will crack open
A sacred doctrine followed by all faithful
insecticides, fungicides, bleach, wax, sulfur and
their supply chains. You have the technology to
outdoorsmen and outdoors women. When
formaldehyde. The workers harvesting it are
find out how a product is made and it’s called
visiting the world’s wild places, take nothing but
often completely unprotected by the most basic
the Internet. If it takes more than a few minutes
photos and leave nothing but footprints. Show
labor laws and it’s grown with colossal amounts
on a company’s website to discover where
respect for nature and the other people who
of water. Organic cotton does none of that and
a product is from, they probably don't have a
want to experience it. Anyone who ignores LNT
costs a bit more upfront, but conventional cotton
transparent supply chain.
is not a true outdoorsmen or outdoors woman.
exacts a far greater toll on a lot more than just your wallet. Not to be confused with recycling, upcycling means using cheap, recycled materials to make a higher-quality products typically sold A group of synthetic chemicals used to make
with a ridiculous mark-up. Think wine bottle
materials resistant to stains, grease and water,
chandeliers, vinyl record wall clocks and so on.
they’re present in zillions of everyday products
You’ll be called a hipster, but your new garden
and are also persistent, meaning once they seep
trellis made with broken skateboards has tons of
into the environment they can take several years
character and it’s good for the planet, too!
to fully break down. Studies show PFCs have adverse effects on animals, including organ failure, immune disorder and birth defects. The jury is out on if PFCs harm humans, but their rap
Sorry to rain on your parade, vegans, but your
sheet doesn’t inspire confidence.
prized faux leather is hiding some dark secrets. It’s most likely made from petroleum-based plastics like PVC (polyvinyl chloride) and polyurethane, both of which are excellent for screwing up the planet. Better to buy genuine, sustainable leather or buy no leather at all.
A certification ensuring ethical treatment of geese and ducks worldwide. These birds supply the world with down and feather insulation, a task so enormous that farms, the overwhelming majority of which are in China, sometimes resort to inhumane shortcuts like live-plucking, forcefeeding and concentrated cages. RDS applies A four-rating system for the design, construction
to the entire supply chain, ensuring products are
and operation of green buildings, homes,
compliant from farm to store since it was started
neighborhoods and cities: Certified (lowest),
by The North Face in 2014 and subsequently
Silver, Gold and Platinum (highest). Compared
adopted by hundreds of brands.
to traditional structures, LEED structures use significantly less energy, have highly efficient water systems, let in tons of natural light and are built with sustainable, non-toxic materials.
The world uses 1 trillion plastic bags a year and less than 5 percent are recycled, the rest ending up disintegrating into tiny toxic globules penetrating our soil, becoming food for sea
45
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Redesign with Costa x Bureo by Nina Stotler
46
I MAG E S C O U RTE SY C O STA S U N G L AS S E S
TURNING PLASTIC WASTE OFF AT THE TAP
W
hatever your opinion regarding our dependence on technology and the modern obsession with connectivity, it's clear we're immersed in a new era of access to information. The exact details on how we're sabotaging our planet have never been more available, despite the efforts of climate change deniers. But thanks to dedicated scientists, conservationists and everyone who loves clean water, air and
wild places, sustainability is now a major subject of cultural conversation. While we've long focused on identifying corporate polluters or changing our daily habits, experts are broaching a newer strategy to tackle the crushing amount of plastic waste we generate daily, traces of which can be found in honey, sea salt, beer and our own bloodstreams. During a recent trip to California’s Channel Islands organized by Costa Sunglasses, known for its color-enhancing lens technology in partnership with Bureo, pioneers in recycled fishing net products, I had the opportunity to meet two of these forward-thinking experts from the 5Gyres Institute for a truly eye-opening microplastics demonstration. Pausing on the open water halfway into our journey, co-founders Anna Cummins and Marcus Eriksen prepared a specially-designed trawl device to capture some of the estimated 269,000 tons of microplastics currently floating on the ocean's surface. After 20 minutes of skimming, Cummins and Eriksen had gathered a tiny portion of the 3,000 to 9,000 particles that exist in every cubic meter of ocean on the planet, the bodies of one in four fish, and 100 percent of washing machines after laundering a synthetic fleece.
" We didn’t see any reason why we couldn’t make
a responsible line of sunglasses, avoiding the use of any new plastic materials."
—TODD BARKER, COASTAL MARKETING MANAGER, COSTA
Sailing onwards to the islands, it was clear to me this is a mess we can't simply "clean up," no matter how many trawling devices we deploy across the globe. Using a commonly cited analogy, we need to figure out how to turn off the tap. Targeting consumption of single-use items has been an excellent first step, addressed by programs like Costa's ongoing Kick Plastic reduction initiative which eliminates plastic bottles from guide boats around the country, but authorities like 5Gyres see our only chance for salvation in innovative, design solutions that avoid creating harmful plastic products in the first place. Costa has welcomed this challenge, leading to the creation of its new Untangled Collection of frames developed with Bureo and made entirely from recycled fishing nets, resulting in some of the most sustainably-made sunglasses available on the market today. Todd Barker, Coastal Marketing Manager at Costa, told us the brand first reached out to Bureo because "we were all intrigued by the products they were making out of recycled fishing nets and the recycling process to upcycle what would be discarded nets. We didn’t see any reason why we couldn’t make a responsible line of sunglasses, avoiding the use of any new plastic materials while still providing superior lens quality, durability and clarity." All four frame styles in the Untangled Collection represent an emerging movement toward options for "better alternatives now," a directive 5Gyres is seeking from products in all industries. We're all familiar with the three "R's" of "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle," but companies like Costa and Bureo are proving we shouldn't forget about "Redesign" as we strive for a plastic-free future. For more information on the new frames and Costa’s full line of sunglasses, visit www.costadelmar.com/untangleouroceans
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CHASING WI An Organic Farmer Harnesses the Power of Trail Running by Jonnah Perkins I M AG E S BY CAR R I E H I G H MAN
48
T
he first sound I hear is crunching gravel. Starting a run half asleep isn’t always a bad thing—there’s an ethereal electricity of waking up bathed in moonlight to find your feet moving beneath you. I log so many pre-dawn miles that I usually don’t
remember dressing myself and the sound of my phone alarm rolls into a waking dream of pure habit. By the time I crest the ridgeline at the top of our lush, wooded valley, a choir of a million insects and birds fills the air, at their loudest volume right before daybreak. I know I only have 90 minutes until I have to shift from runner to farmer, so I push out any thoughts of harvesting, planting or the mass of emails waiting for me.
LD
“My mind is always overwhelmed with ideas and possibilities, a sense of busyness ever present in farming, but quelled by running. The real reason for all of my brute effort, both in farming and running, is an attempt to satiate my desire to live deeply in our natural world, not as a bystander watching safely from a climate controlled environment.” I've been farming alongside my husband and his family for a decade and our Community Supported Agriculture farm (CSA) was one of the pioneers of the sustainable farming movement in the Midwest. Located in Blue Mounds, Wisconsin, Vermont Valley Community Farm, named for the Town of Vermont in Wisconsin where we are located, feeds thousands of families in the greater Madison area. The farm has been instrumental in educating young farmers who've gone on to start their own operations, becoming an institution dedicated to improving the food system beyond our own production. I dart off the road and into the dark forest, flipping on my headlamp as my feet hit the single-track. I’m fully awake now and it’s time to shred my home trails. I live, farm and run in the Driftless Region of southwestern Wisconsin. The craggy rock formations, tight valleys and unrelenting hills were untouched by the glaciers of the last ice age. Starting from my front porch, I can reach a thousand feet of vertical gain in two miles, defying the notion that Wisconsin is a flat state.
49
The drive I feel for both farming and running can only be described as earnestness. I'm fixated on repairing the broken food system, rejecting conventional agriculture, refusing an ordinary life, and diving deeper into the wild spaces. Sometimes I feel guilty for my fervent insistence on living out my ideals and wonder if it's a luxury to expect so much out of this world. Weaving up from the valley floor to a clearing in the forest, I see the sun is starting to change the sky as it shifts from black to the deepest navy to blush pink and every mauve and lavender in between. The sound of popping and snapping comes from a dark thicket on my left and a family of whitetail deer stares into the cyclops eye of my headlamp beam before bounding away. I accept every opportunity to run with wild creatures, so I take off after them on a parallel trail. I'm envious as the deer leap with an animal athleticism I will never know. My mind is always overwhelmed with ideas and possibilities, a sense of busyness ever present in farming, but quelled by running. The real reason for all of my brute effort, both in farming and running, is an attempt to satiate my desire to live deeply in our natural world, not as a bystander watching safely
50
from a climate controlled environment. Sustain-
watch and it's 6:11 a.m. The rest of the human
able farming cultivates nature to support our lives,
world is waking up, making coffee, and driving to
while running breaks me down and builds me up
work, but I'm moving through space and time to-
so I can do this work with more humility.
ward home with a heart so full, it feels like it could burst. Some days, I'm so overtaken with the power
The roaring energy of a CSA farm sustains itself
of my run, my emotion wells up in my eyes and
and making a commitment to growing food for
streams down my cheeks.
your community lights a fire keeping your steadfast momentum charging forward. The endless
Every morning as I trot back up the driveway to my
challenges small-scale farmers face can only be
house, I transition from my running self and return
survived by an inner devotion to our trade and this
to my farming world, leaving the dirt and sweat on
passion goes beyond the strongest work ethic I
my skin knowing I'll only get earthier as the day
thought was possible.
goes on. Achieving true wildness will always elude me, but I'll never stop chasing it with the energy of
When I pop back out onto the road, sweat stinging my eyes, the sky is full of daylight. I look at my
51
the farm raging behind me.
GOINGTHEDIS 52
STANCE 53
Conscious Goods by Ma Wovens BY LISA DOUGHERTY
A
ny relationship worth holding onto requires ef-
Surprisingly, hemp is still making its way into the Amer-
fort. It’s about taking that extra step—or maybe
ican psyche as a legitimate option for natural fibers. It's
a lot of extra steps—but putting in the time and
been a slow moving process to get the plant recognized
energy to cultivate a balanced and mutual part-
as an ordinary agricultural commodity in the U.S., de-
nership is always worth it. When Kelly Peyton,
spite growing research showing a myriad of benefits it
founder of Ma Wovens, decided to create a conscious
has for the environment. It’s natural, requires no synthet-
woven goods company, she first contemplated the im-
ic fertilizers or pesticide, and reduces soil contamina-
pact her yoga mats would have on the planet.
tion. Even so, anyone in the states looking to work with hemp has to defer to the global market, which can be an
It was a no-brainer to source less toxic materials than
intimidating landscape to navigate.
the non-biodegradable, cancer-causing synthetic PVC regularly used in yoga mats. When designing their
“When I started out, I had no idea how difficult sourcing
signature Ritual Rug, Kelly landed on hemp, one of the
and creating a hemp product would be. After contend-
strongest natural fibers available. But going the extra
ing with outrageous shipping costs and attempting to
mile to source a low-impact material and ensure an
get to know hemp production facilities from around
eco-friendly product for consumers has its challenges.
the world, I was pretty disheartened. It was extremely
54
important for me to find a manufacturing partner in line
purchasing decision supporting a waste-free future.
with our holistic approach to production that shared
That’s why brands like Ma Woven are important. By
the same values for providing a yoga mat that was both
making a commitment and putting in the extra work
high performing and healthy for the end user. It took a
despite the hurdles, Ma Wovens makes it possible for
lot of trial and error, but eventually I was referred to a
people to connect with their environment and do what
progressive hemp production facility in Northern Chi-
they love, naturally.
na. There I got to experience firsthand where the hemp textile comes from, straight from the earth, before being
“This whole experience has been a roller coaster of
manufactured into yarn and the product. It added a level
trial and error, but nothing less than gratifying. I know
of authenticity to the whole experience.”
now that everyone who is working with or advocating for the use of hemp is facing challenges, but we still do it anyway. We do it because we know it’s the fu-
financial and operational barriers to utilizing ethical
ture to a better way for our environment and people.
materials can make or break their decision to pro-
It takes a little more time and care to get there, but
duce mindful products. Without sustainable options,
patience is what yoga is all about. We’re in this for
consumers won’t have the buying power to make a
the long haul.” I MAG E S BY S HAU N DAL EY
For entrepreneurs and small business owners, the
55
DISCONNECT TO RECONNECT When a Digital Guru Starts an Offline Company and Gets her Memory Back Words by Meg Callahan I MAG E S C O U R TE SY O F FO L K R E B E L L I O N
56
I
think I scrambled my brain,” Jess Davis laughs, recalling the first
“I peel back the layers and ask why are we doing these things? Why can you
time she met with doctors to discuss an array of ailments plaguing
end up dying one day and realizing you never lived your life? Because you
her every day. Experiencing brain fog, memory loss, disassociation
are living a life that others deemed for you,” Davis says. Like many, her path
and the inability to focus, Davis was sick and nobody knew why. Fast
was predetermined for her from the beginning, following the familiar trail to
forward to the moment she was forced to hand over all her devices on a family
success of college, kids, corporate America and a white picket fence, a chain
vacation in Hawaii. Standing at the
that led her to burnout. To recover,
doorway to paradise wearing
she chose to follow her alter ego,
a lei, she surrendered
the character Sloane from Ferris
her
fear,
Bueller’s Day Off, and created a
anger
and guilt along
company based on rebellion.
with her iPhone. This rebellion, stemming from her
After eight days device-detox,
Adirondack roots, pulls Davis back
she flipped a switch.
to nature daily. Whether she’s find-
“It was like I had my
ing solace on a mountaintop or
of
scrunching her toes in wet grass in
18-year-old brain back.”
her Brooklyn backyard, nature is the Davis returned to New York
driving force for her creativity and
City and her 9-to-5 job as a
she’s willing to fight for it. Focusing
digital strategist with a freshly
on sustainable merchandising in her
analog mindset. “I had this 'Aha!'
lifestyle collection and wilderness
moment. I quit my job and decided
adventures, Davis helps foster rela-
to use my evil genius marketing
tionships between her followers and
powers for good and bring attention
the outdoors. “It’s all great to go off
to the fact that if we don’t use tech
the grid for seven days, but if you go
mindfully, we'll get sick. Really sick.”
back to the world the same way, we haven’t enacted any change,” says
This revelation led to the creation of
Davis. This change starts from the
Folk Rebellion, a media brand on a
ground up and person to person in
mission. Through smart, snarky slo-
micro-communities.
gans printed on vintage T-shirts like
tapings, workshops and a program to
“Hold Someone Like You Hold Your
reform technological use in schools
Phone,” and a monthly newspaper called The Dispatch, Davis is changing the face of digital well-being. “You have to meet people where they are and where they are is dig-
“ I quit my job and decided to use my evil genius marketing powers for good.”
ital. Would I love to live in a cabin
Live
podcast
are all on the Folk Rebellion docket. But what makes Davis nervous? Kids. “If kids don’t have a calling to the sea or the woods, when someone wants to give these places to developers, they may not protect them,” she says.
in the Pacific Northwest and send out my monthly newsletters via carrier
So how do we set boundaries, steal back the word “connected” from Silicon
pigeons and smoke signals? Sure. But I can't enact change that way.”
Valley, and raise empathetic, nature-loving children? According to Davis, it starts in the bedroom and continues with the strategies listed below.
So what’s the virtual version of a smoke signal? A platform to spread offline rebellion with 23,800 Instagram followers. Through “adventures” instead
Steal back your time and return to analog. The less power you give your
of retreats, workshops on digital boundaries and real human connections,
devices, the more real life you will have. Some people call her a nostalgic
Davis uses her online presence to pull us out of the hyperconnected pond.
dinosaur, but we call her a rebel.
1. Keep your devices out of your bedroom.
3. Always carry a book or magazine.
2. Make your mornings ritualistic and sacred.
4. Use social media as a creator, not a consumer.
5. Get a watch. 6. Have a conversation with your loved ones about technology.
57
7. Manage your expectations. The best defense is a good offense.
GEM SHOW
C RYSTA L C LU STE R
Collages + Words by Emily Hoy
58
M E GA M O U NTA I N
I
magine designing and creating a puzzle with no rules,
crystals, as if repeating physical traits between family members.
using everything you love about Mother Earth, Father Sky
They remind us that regardless if we're mighty or microscopic,
and everything in between. This is what’s inside all of us
we're all delicate, precious and filled with sentiment.
and reflected in my collages, radiant and dazzling like a
gem. Each piece is unique to its surroundings and placed with
The round halo of the moon moves things inside us, looks
an absolute metaphysical intent, much like the Big Bang that
over us and forever witnesses the magic of minerals that glis-
created life as we know it.
ten in its light. The rhythms of the moon and the rigidity of the angled crystals align with the fluidity of organic, yet geometric
The angles I see in crystals and gems are a reflection of the
natural shapes.
larger formations I see in the landscapes surrounding my home in Bend, Oregon, which is part of the Cascade Mountain
Color is the eye-catcher moving your gaze from one side to the
Range. I'm lucky enough to see this small segment of the range
other, like swaying to your favorite song. Choosing one hue and
every day, Mount Bachelor, Broken Top, the South, Middle and
placing it beside another acts like a harmony of music notes.
North Sisters, and Mount Jefferson, each covered in snowfall
Even more colors come together, inspired by the previous
and filling the Central Oregon blue skies as they break through
choice, building a symphony of nature and humanity. This is
the clouds. These massive shapes reflect the angles found in
my puzzle.
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Alternative explores our National Parks through their new collection
A NEW ALTERNATIVE by Ali C arr Trox ell
J O S H UA TR E E I MAG E S BY ETHAN G U L L EY
icture this: the last rays of a sunset hit the smooth
tive’s ultra-comfortable Eco-Jersey™ and Eco-Fleece fab-
boulders and yuccas of Joshua Tree National Park
rics and includes vintage silhouettes of Rocky Mountain,
with a neon flamingo pink sky. Fog clings to the
Acadia, Joshua Tree and Great Smoky Mountains. The tie
lush, low-slung hills of Tennessee’s Great Smoky
between Alternative, a part of the HanesBrands family,
Mountains. These memorable landscapes are
and National Parks goes further than just graphics. The
inspiration for the graphics behind Alternative’s new col-
National Park Foundation, the official nonprofit partner
lection of official National Parks-branded apparel.
of the National Park Service, receives a royalty from each purchase to help sustain and conserve America’s
In a natural extension of Alternative and the National
natural, cultural and historical treasures. HanesBrands
Park Foundation’s shared value of bettering our planet’s
announced a five-year partnership with the National Park
welfare, Alternative debuted a one-of-a-kind collection of
Foundation for the Find Your Park/Encuentra Tu Parque
National Parks graphics. This collection features Alterna-
movement in February 2018.
60
“With a commendable record of environmental and social stewardship, HanesBrands is a powerhouse in helping the foundation carry out its mission to ensure the vitality and promise of America’s National Park System for future generations,” said Will Shafroth, President of the National Park Foundation. This collaboration excited Alternative since the company has focused on being rooted in global and social responsibility before sustainability became a buzzword. “Since day one, we’ve focused on sustainably produced basics, and partnering with the National Park Foundation will help us achieve our goal of bettering our planet’s welfare,” said Heather Devine, Alternative’s Creative Director. Alternative is known for their undeniably soft and stylish eco-friendly basics produced with sustainable practices, including low-impact dyes, recycled materials and environmentally friendly packaging. The news of an acquisition by a large corporation may seem like a surprise for a brand dedicated to sustainability, but HanesBrands has actually led the industry in environmental responsibility. In 2017, the company diverted 84 percent of its supply chain waste from landfills and they're on track to meet several environmental goals in 2020, including cutting carbon emissions by 40 percent and reducing water use by 50 percent. With these standards in mind, their collaboration with the National Park Foundation was an organic next step. These products recently debuted online and in Alternative’s Venice and Hayes Valley stores, and will be on display at Outdoor Retailer at Booth VO435-SL. Alternative’s Venice store will also host a RANGE Magazine launch party at the beginning of August to celebrate the collection and partnership. “We were brought together by shared values, history and a great passion
For more info on Alternative, head to alternativeapparel.com
for America’s great wonders, and are excited to do better for our planet,
or visit their retail stores in Venice, Hayes Valley and Soho.
together.” Alternative chose to partner with Austin-based artist Alana Lyons on this project because of her ongoing relationship with the brand and her love of the outdoors, especially national parks. “I make it a point to visit as many national parks as I can and made seven trips last year,” Lyons says. “I keep all of their brochures because as a designer, I love how consistent they are. They become special keepsakes to remember each visit.” Lyons is a big fan of the look and feel of Alternative products and was given free reign to interpret each park using her own vision. “This complete trust challenged me to do the best work that I can,” Lyon said. “I feel honored I was chosen as one of the designers on this series because this is a subject I’m so passionate about.”
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RAD RETAILERS Culture Creators
I MAG E BY A NT H O NY S C OTT
by Rob Darmour
For Issue Nine, we looked at retailers who appeal to the human desire for tactile discovery. Eclectic merchandising, immersive scents and real-world communities give these brick and mortar outposts a quality that pixels on a smartphone can’t replace.
See See Motor Cafe: Portland, OR Motorcycle Culture for the Rest of Us See See Motor Cafe has pulled off a magic trick. They’ve made riding on a death trap an inclusive outlet of creativity. Their East Burnside complex houses a cafe offering delicious expresso or $2.00 cans of PBR, a retail store selling everything from retro-inspired graphic tees to carburetor parts, and a gallery space hosting motorcycle-related events and art shows. Their annual "One Moto Show," now heading into its 10th edition, brings together people from all walks of life in celebration of motorcycle culture. When a family in their community was facing a child diagnosed with rare health complications, riders of all kinds—from Harley dads to Moped hipsters—got together to raise funds in support. By highlighting the creativity of motorcycle culture, they’ve built a community that welcomes everyone and changed the stereotype of riding on two wheels. An interesting case study for the modern outdoor movement.
62
I M AG E C O U R TE SY O F U N BY
I MAG E C O U R TE SY O F R OVE
ROVE: San Diego, CA Travelers Turned Hosts
UNBY: Tokyo & Osaka Japanese Camp Curation
Blake and Jenna Robertson turned the inspiration of their seven-month world
UNBY in Harajuku feels like the obsessive version of an equipment shack at
tour into an ongoing retail and community space called ROVE. A curated
a summer adventure camp. While the walls are covered with the same tan
selection of beautiful home goods, well-designed outdoor essentials and
pegboard, the products displayed on them are far more tasteful than what
mind-expanding literature encourage an adventurous way of living for guests
you would have used as an adolescent. In one corner, camouflage-printed
of their Normal Heights shop. Prompted by their customer’s adventures,
outdoor chairs are paired with the bold, white finish of a Primus camp stove,
the duo created a monthly speaker series dubbed "ROVE Abouts" to cover
which can be slung over your shoulder for easy carry. Common garden uten-
everything from a touring cyclist’s global travelogue to Scott Turner’s new
sils are hung with a jeweler’s care behind the counter, creating a scene of
take on the trail guide, Afoot + Afield, titled in tribute to the late Jerry Schad.
simple beauty. Merchandising according to pragmatic purpose like “camp
ROVE is the new explorers club helping people from all walks of life find their
lighting” is creatively disrupted by a creative lay down of these products in
own passion for adventure.
black. The choose-your-own-adventure experience and laid-back staff make discovering new camping equipment a leisure art.
AD ETAILERS 63
JUNK BECOMES TREASURE The Roving Gear Library
Words + Images by Rebecca Spencer & Kd Eaton
64
There are typically two sides to a story, but in our case, there are three. We are The Roving Dears, three fly fishing ladies with a heart for community, conservation and tasty beer who met around a firepit in Portland, Oregon. Sometimes universal magic strikes and amid the crackling of embers, you meet your best friends, your fates aligning with a shared passion for good times and desire to learn fly fishing. One of our friends had donated some worn out waders and a pair of boots four sizes too large. This wasn’t glamorous gear, but it got us out on the water. We dove in, the three of us sharing one rod, a handful of flies and a few lessons group member Laura remembered from her childhood. Our first realization? Fly fishing is hard and learning it is a humbling process. To document these realities, we began sharing our stories, hoping to encourage newcomers to embrace their trials and errors while taking joy in the process of noticing the delicate details: riffles, runs, pools, the shape and temperature of water, insect hatches tempting the fish’s appetite. Observing these details, the vulnerabilities of the entire system become exposed and you learn it’s not all about the technique or number of fish you catch. The intricacies of fly fishing have led us to live with new insights and become advocates and stewards of this world we share. The opportunity for our new outlook occurred because someone loved fly fishing and wanted to share it with us. Those XL waders and giant boots changed our lives, and so we’re bringing that full circle with the Roving Gear Library. Anyone can borrow free gear based on the honor system for as long as they need, which is distributed from available inventory listed on our website, therovingdears.com, at our home bases in Olympia, Portland and Boise. It’s that simple. We're asking everyone to donate their old, unused gear to give more people access to fly fishing and exposure to the influence of nature. Help us recycle used gear while encouraging inclusivity, environmental stewardship and engagement. We realize fly fishing isn’t everyone’s jam, but here are a few unsolicited words of advice when seeking ways to sustain your values: start small, work with what you’ve got, act with hope, and believe good things will grow—because they will. Tightlines, friends, and go rove!
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THE WOMEN of WOLLAM GARDENS Meet the Team who Resurrected a Flower Farm Words + Images by Austyn Gaffney Jillian McFadyen didn’t expect to become farm manager at one of the most prominent cut flower farms in America. When she arrived at Wollam Gardens in the spring of 2015, she was looking for a short-term gig in farming and floral design. But once she arrived, she knew she was stuck.
66
“As soon as I arrived as an intern,” said Jillian, “I
“I think we saw where there was a hole that needed to be filled on the farm,”
knew I was never going to leave. I can definitely
said Claire. “And then we each stepped into that hole.”
say I’ve never been more certain about anything Their initiative inspired Bob to take the farm off the market in the fall of 2016
in my life.”
and make his interns full-time employees and managers in their respective roles. Wollam Gardens is 11 acres of rolling Virginia farmland about 60 miles outside Washington,
Currently in the middle of their third season together, the group is working on a
D.C., a property purchased in 1988 by Bob Wol-
new mission to transform the farm from a conventional model to a sustainable
lam. After a long career in the oil business, Bob
production. Their first step towards this goal last year was discontinuing use
spent decades making a name for himself in the
of the pesticide Roundup and transitioning to FDA-regulated herbicides for
cut flower industry. He planted woody perennials
dahlias, their biggest crop. Wollam Gardens now sprays with FoxFarm’s Tiger
like viburnum, hydrangea, quince and lilac, and
Bloom, an organic fertilizer, to encourage plants to blossom more prolifically,
started a seasonal internship program for begin-
are releasing beneficial insects like ladybugs into their hoop houses in spring,
ner farmers.
and have switched to biodegradable plastic in the fields.
Halfway through Jillan’s internship, her manag-
New interns are also tackling projects that reflect their sustainable goals.
ers, former interns themselves, fell in love and
Molly, an intern from upstate New York, is turning a large burn pile into usable
moved out of the property’s 18th century farmhouse to start their own flower
compost, while Zoe, who joined the group from North Carolina, is removing
operation in Maine. After their departure, Jillian and a new co-manager Emily
invasive vines and weed trees. In addition to this sustainable land management,
took over daily operations. The women struggled through the fall and winter
the women aim to provide a more sustainable lifestyle for their hard-working
months until Bob announced he was selling the farm. Wollam Gardens was
interns to encourage them to stay longer and take on more responsibility. So
losing money, and Bob, now in his 70s, was tired.
far, this strategy seems to be working, as the head intern Molly has returned for a second season while two others have committed to a full year.
In the midst of this managerial chaos in 2016, Jillian and Emily were also put in charge of a new group of interns, Hillary Gottemoeller, Arrin Sutliff and Claire
“We’re trying to do a much better job of caring about people’s emotions and
Tolentino, who had all arrived with little farming experience.
experiences here,” said Claire. “Creating a better living experience for our workers has become a priority. We want happy workers and I think it’s a uniquely feminine thing.”
“I worked as a florist before,” said Claire, “but I had never been on a farm and didn’t know anything about how to grow things. My first day, I harvested
This level of care is also present in the relationships between the four manag-
daffodils and weeded. I felt very silly the first few months.”
ers, who live together and have become good friends. They know each other’s Emily and Jillian had high standards and they instilled a strong work ethic each
partners and families, their hobbies and their ticks. They’re in tune with every-
intern, who learned how to drive the tractor, harvest and extend the vase life
one's emotions and know when someone is frustrated or upset. For each of
of flowers, propagate and plant seedlings, and design a hundred bouquets in
them, the farm feels like a family.
a single afternoon. Just months into the season, co-manager Emily decided to leave as well, and suddenly Jillian and her interns were in charge of a 30-year-
“Like anything [working with three other women] has its challenges, but this
old a business.
business is so broad,” said Jillian. “We rely on one another for advice and help. We all want to see this place succeed and really take off.”
The four women quickly got into a groove. They spent hours bent over rows of flowers, talking, laughing and getting to know each other. Jillian continued to
Claire believes the rituals they share of grilling outside and swimming in the riv-
delegate daily tasks—weeding, watering, planting, harvesting—and the interns
er amid the humid summers of rural Virginia, coupled with the fact they haven’t
stepped up to the plate. Claire took over the farmer’s markets, Hillary settled
killed each other yet, says a lot.
into administrative duties, and Arrin organized events including an annual festival and a string of weddings that brought in new funds for the farm.
“When I went home [to Kansas] after only a few months of working at Wollam Gardens, I was already telling people this is the happiest I’ve ever been,” said Claire. “That’s never changed.”
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68
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P H OTO S BY G R E G BA LK I N
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B e e ke e p i n
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TTI
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by Johnie Gall
I
f your only encounter with bees has been on the wrong side of a stinger, allow me to introduce you to these creatures, Planet Earth style. Honey bees never sleep, have hair on their eyes, build perfect hexagons, and can reverse
their brain aging when taking on the jobs of younger bees. They study angles of the sun to find where the good pollen is and they communicate through competitive dance routines. Bees are fascinating and one in every three bites of food depends on bee pollination, which makes the fact they are disappearing an even harder pill to swallow. Around the world, honeybee population loss has been swift and devastating, attributed to everything from pesticides to phone signals. But the root cause of their disappearance is also the most obvious: our climate is changing and we’re frantically trying to slap Band-Aids of synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, mutant vegetables and antibiotics on the problem. To be an advocate for climate change policy is to be an advocate for local, chemical-free farming. In his book Oil and Honey, 350.org founder Bill McKibben explains that due to the rapid rate at which our planet is heating up, currently one degree hotter than average globally and locked into at least another half-degree increase, we need immediate and global political action to have any real chance of slowing things down. But even if we do figure out this conundrum, we’ll need larger and lasting cultural shifts returning to I MAG E S BY G R E G B ALK I N
more sustainable norms. Growing and buying our food locally will be one of the most important. Step one: get a new generation of young people interesting in farming, which is easier said than done. Traditional farming is laborious, demanding, not all that profitable, and dictated by increasingly erratic weather patterns and access to large plots of fertile land. As an industry, it’s not as sexy as tech or fashion, either. But the times they are a-changing, and so is farming. In what sounds a little like science fiction, the startup Plenty opened a farm last year just south of Seattle growing fruits and vegetables for regional cus-
69
tomers in climate and light con-
Salt Lake City resident Adam
trolled 20-foot cylinders, which
Buchanan is another proponent
are totally herbicide, pesticide and
of the practice, who realized the
GMO free. Plenty scored $200
potential of beekeeping reached
million from investors in the largest
beyond their obvious product.
ag-tech deal ever. This method of
“Our main reason for keeping
vertical farming joins a new wave
bees in the beginning was honey,
of agriculture helping to disrupt the
but then we realized the pollination
industry, such as urban and subur-
was incredible and our garden ex-
ban rooftop and compact farming.
ploded. We’ve recruited 20-plus
This wave is just the start and may
beekeepers over the years, and
all come back to bees.
have shared why it’s important to avoid using harmful chemicals like
In 2014, Flow’s honey-on-tap bee
RoundUp in our landscaping.”
hives went live on Indiegogo and started garnering attention online,
Bees are fairly self-sufficient and it
piquing the interest of Santa Cruz
doesn’t take much time or financial
native Travis Oberg. He did some
investment to get started. With
research, purchased a hive, and
a low barrier to entry, could bee-
began keeping bees. This led to
keeping be a “gateway drug” to
a bee-friendly garden and three
other forms of agriculture? Could
years later, he and his wife run
it be indicative of the first steps
California Honeycraft, which sells
toward that culture shift? Maybe.
organic honey and beeswax prod-
At the very least, it’s another way
ucts to local customers.
to spend some time outdoors for the next generation.
“As a beekeeper, you’re aware of the seasons, the rise and fall of bee colony populations, and that interdependency with the environment,” Oberg explains. “It’s all about sustainability. Being a beekeeper means finding a balance in letting an organism thrive within
New Zealand’s Buzzstop is a newly opened “honey center” and cafe where tourists can experience beekeeping and honey harvesting
its environment and the interaction
“Beekeeping made me think more about the decisions I make and their lasting consequences,” says 18-year-old Tauni Keyes, who has been keeping bees for four years. “The planet—my bees included— depends on people like me to step up and do my part.”
we have with it.”
70
Cross Pollination Our Earthly Connection to Skincare
B
by Shannon Davenport
efore starting my indie skincare company, I enrolled in a certification program at a small aromatherapy school in New York City’s East Village. I was aware of the rise of natural and small-batch beauty based
on my extensive experience as a trend consultant, but from a more personal perspective growing up in the Bay Area with a progressive family, I knew essential oils were undeniably delicious smelling and full of beneficial properties. Six months after the course, I was able to link this knowledge together and build the concept of what became my brand, Esker. I'd learned about the botany, chemistry and skincare benefits of plants like lavender, eucalyptus and geranium, and I knew I wanted to create products around these incredible ingredients, while also honoring them. There's a lot of confusion and murky information about essential oils, so my aim is to bring clarity to the conversation and show how truly functional they can be. Essential oils are as diverse as herbs and each comes from a different plant with a completely unique composition, aroma and skincare benefit. As I began to imagine bringing my natural bodycare line to life, I spent a lot of time considering these plant ingredients and what goes into harvesting and producing them. I want to make people think more deeply about plant life and a key part of that is acknowledging and appreciating the role of pollinators like bees, butterflies and birds in the ecosystem. The more I read about protecting pollinators, whose population is decreasing due to urbanization and pollution, the more I understood how helping them could actually be quite simple—we need to plant more flowers! I love the simplicity of this solution and I wanted to make it very easy and fun for my customers as well, so I created a custom seed packet to accompany my product boxes for an extra little surprise. Esker now has six available products: three body oils and three natural bodywashes. Each formula combines essential oils and incredibly nutritive base oils like fractionated coconut oil, squalane, avocado, evening primrose and jojoba oils, which are chosen opportunity to work with amazing retailers like Goop, Jenni Kayne and Anthropologie, the best part of running Esker is meeting other entrepreneurs creating their companies with a sense of mindfulness. Hopefully my products will help everyone slow down, take a moment to participate in a relaxing ritual, and of course, plant more flowers.
71
I MAG E BY L AU R E N O C H OA
to be highly moisturizing, but not at all greasy. In addition to the
SUBLIME SKIN CARE
Ursa Major nourishes naturally with plant-based products by Kalin Stewart
G
ood health is synonymous with caring about what we put in our bodies, but shouldn’t we also be mindful of what we put on them? Oliver Sweatman and Emily Doyle, creators of natural skin care company Ursa Major, believe the answer to this question is a resounding yes. They’ve developed a line of plant-based products as delightful to the senses as they are nourishing to the skin. We asked Oliver:
How did Ursa Major begin?
of these chemicals. While only trace amounts penetrate the
We were living and working in NYC and loving it, but started
skin with each application, over time, these toxins accumu-
yearning for a simpler, more balanced lifestyle closer to the
late in the organs.
outdoors. Around this time, we did a 30-day detox and learned
Today, companies like ours make clean, plant-based
about unhealthy chemicals in personal care products. We
products delivering the performance consumers expect, so
started to look around for alternatives, but it was difficult to
there’s really no reason to still use conventional, toxin-laden
find products that checked all the boxes as truly natural, ef-
products. Switching to natural skin care is just one more step
fective and also a pleasure to use. We moved to Vermont and
you can take to live as cleanly and healthily as possible, similar
once we arrived, decided to go for it and start Ursa Major. We
to choosing organic over conventional produce.
figured there must be others like us who were trying to solve healthier personal care as part of a bigger wellness push.
What does “wellness” mean to you? To us, it’s a state of mind. It’s about making a conscious de-
Why should people make the switch to natural skin care?
cision to live a certain way and then committing to that path.
There’s a growing consensus in the scientific medical com-
It’s when your mind, body and spirit all feel strong, integrated
munity that humans are exposed to too many chemicals with
and in balance. It’s easier said than done, but when these
serious negative impacts on their health and the environ-
things come into alignment, you feel centered and the world
ment. Personal care products, especially leave-on products
just seems to open up. In this way, wellness really becomes
like deodorant, face creams, etc., are a significant source
the foundation for everything else in life. It’s the big enabler.
72
How to be a More Conscious Cosmetics Consumer by Meg Callahan I LLU STRATI O N BY AN N A B R O N E S
S
o you want to buy some moisturizer. You’ve done your re-
Cruelty-Free vs. Not Tested on Animals
search, read all the reviews, and have finally added the perfect
Animal testing is legal, but isn’t required in the United States. If the bottle
product to your Amazon cart. It’s in a recyclable glass con-
reads “cruelty-free” or “not tested on animals,” it may only refer to the final
tainer, it’s natural and organic, and it even has that little pink
product and not the development stage. These statements are not regulated
bunny symbol you think certifies it is cruelty-free. It’s perfect and sustainable.
by any government agency, so take the next step and look for symbols. That
But when it shows up on your doorstep that afternoon—because you chose
cute leaping bunny is a pledge the company won’t test on animals at any stage, even in other markets such as China, where the govern-
same-day delivery, obviously—it’s in a box three times its size,
ment requires all cosmetics to be tested on animals. The PETA
suffocated in bubble-wrap with two layers of plastic pack-
pink bunny symbol is similar, but without as many stringent
aging. How’s that for sustainable?
conditions. Labels are tricky, sometimes false, and often It’s hard, we get it. You’re a conscious consumer
just used for good PR. Do yourself and the bunnies a favor
and you want what’s best for the environment as
by reading the fine print and company FAQs on animal
well as a product that’s inexpensive and actually
testing, and if the product is sold in China and not in
works. You know the basics like recycling and
Europe, always take a second look.
choosing natural products, but what if you could do more? Here’s how.
Recycled vs. Compostable Get to know your recycling center. Where you live affects your
Natural vs. Organic
ability to recycle certain products, so choose options that lower
These labels are not necessarily synonymous with better. The term
your footprint. If possible, purchase products that are both recyclable
“natural” hasn’t been defined by the FDA and is often slapped on
and made from recycled materials. The best option is compostable
labels to make products appear healthier. According to the USDA,
packaging. Michael Robinson, a packaging guru, and director of
to receive a 100 percent organic seal, “the product must contain
open innovations for L’Oreal, recommends going with your gut. “If
only organically produced ingredients.” However, labels such as
you pick up a heavy, fancy jar and think, ‘How can I recycle this?’,
“made with organic ingredients” or “contains naturally derived
you probably can’t. As a consumer, you have to be woke. You
ingredients” may only refer to one ingredient in a list of many. If
get woke by learning."
you’ve got your labels on lock, take the next step and research The little things add up and as a consumer, you can make a differ-
where and how the company sources their natural ingredients. Look for supply chain information and pledges to Sustainable Development
ence. A recent report by Grand View Research predicts the organic person-
Goals. Just because something is natural, doesn't mean it’s sustainable.
al care market will reach $25.1 billion by 2025. The industry is changing and you have the power to dictate what luxury looks like. Opt to buy in store over delivery, DIY when possible, and for those tough jobs—laugh lines are sexy, BTW—know your ingredients and where they come from.
AS A CONSUMER, YOU HAVE TO BE WOKE. 73
I MAG E S BY O CTAV E Z AN G S & C H LOÉ LE P E LTI E R
Zero Waste 101
The ultimate goal of the Zero Waste movement is transitioning from a linear economy, which is based on the "take, make and dispose” model of production, to a circular economy that relies on the 5Rs principles of Refuse, Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Rot/Compost. It's essential for governments and corporations to address this issue, but individuals also have the power to make an impact on their communities and environments by advocating for sustainable practices or simply leading by example. Here are five concrete and easy ways to lower the amount of physical waste we produce on a daily basis.
Five Ways to Kickstart Your Journey to Less Waste by Chloé Lepeltier
74
1. BYOC Coffee cups are not recyclable and millions end up in the landfill daily. One very simple way to prevent this is to bring your own cup (BYOC)! There are enough options out there for you to find the right fit. From a mason jar with a drink top to an insulated stainless-steel mug, choose one that best corresponds to your lifestyle. The best reusable
Individuals have the power to make an impact on their communities and environment.
mug is the one you won't forget to take with you.
3. Never Buy Another Plastic Water Bottle Did you know bottled water is at least 600 times more expensive than tap water? Talk about an easy
2. Ditch the Straw
way to save money! Get yourself a
More and more businesses are
safe, reusable water bottle, keep it
banning straws entirely, which is
in your car, bag or backpack, and
awesome, but in the meantime,
never buy another plastic bottle. If
make a point of ordering your
you need more reasons to stop buy-
drinks “for here with no straw.” You
ing water, remember plastic bottles
can go one step further and share
are not only wasteful, but treated
your motivations with the bartend-
with chemicals that can leach into
er. It might inspire them to ask their
your water. So unless you find your-
next customer if they'd like a straw
self in a place where tap water isn't
or not before automatically putting
safe or not available, stop wasting
one in a drink.
your health and money on something that’s almost free.
4. Carry a Hankie Any medium-sized piece of fabric, such as a bandana, cloth napkin or an old-fashioned handkerchief can be used as a regular napkin at restaurants, to wrap a to-go bagel, to wipe your nose or clean up a wound, and prevents the use of single-use napkins.
5. Give Bulk a Chance Whether it’s at the farmers market, your neighborhood co-op or a big supermarket, there’s a reasonable chance you can buy something package-free, from vegetables and dry goods to spices. Start with just one item and bring your own container, a glass jar or a produce bag, weigh it, fill it up and voilà! No longer will you pay for packaging you’ll
Chloé Lepeltier is a translator, the author of the sustainable lifestyle blog Conscious
throw away as soon as you're home.
by Chloé and the founder of Zero Waste PDX, a Portland-based organization that gives locals the resources and tools to reduce their carbon-footprint.
75
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C
igarette butts. Used toilet paper.
new nugget of refuse left me with an increasing
Single-use water bottles. Corroded
sense of despair compounded by an unrelenting
batteries. Spent Band-Aids. And
monsoon. The act of picking up each piece was
as always, the glittery remains of a
bittersweet and my satisfaction in doing some-
thousand assorted wrappers fluttering in the wind.
thing productive negated surprising pangs of despondence. What is wrong with people? How
Hidden among the towering peaks, undulating
could they trash such a beautiful landscape?
grasslands and pale spindles of birch of the
Why am I even bothering?
Colorado Trail is a universe of trash. But on one thankfully sunny day, I experienced a Not three miles in during my first day out, I felt a
change of heart and a change in thinking. Warmed
twinge of anger as I scooped up an abandoned
by those glorious rays, my brain thawed as I
candy wrapper and stuffed it in a side pocket. I
dumped a handful of petrified orange peels into
soothed myself with the reminder that I was so
my pocket. What if I just practiced forgiveness in-
close to the trailhead, so close to civilization, so
stead of tainting this experience with bitterness?
close to 680,000 Denverites who perhaps hadn’t
The act of picking up each piece was bittersweet and my satisfaction in doing something productive negated surprising pangs of despondence. the sidewalks and into the gutters, remembering that if you feel people don't care about you, your
received the memo to Leave No Trace. I forgave, I
I thought about those orange peels, considering
home or your community, you also tend to lose
forgot, until I spotted another piece of litter.
the fact they take anywhere from six months to
respect for these things. But someone still needs
two years to break down depending on the soil
to care, and maybe that someone should be me.
It continued like this all day, and then the next and
and climate. What if someone just figured, “Hey,
the next.
these come from nature, so why don’t I just add
I like to think of hiking as walking meditation, an
them back to the universal compost heap?”
opportunity to be ultra-present and acknowledge
Because I'm an environmentalist with a masoch-
Or what if that water bottle I picked up simply
the thoughts sloshing around in my head. In that
istic streak, I signed up for Granite Gear’s inau-
slipped from a hiker's side pocket? Perhaps
spirit, I welcomed the opportunity to work through
gural Grounds Keepers program, a stewardship
those slivers of foil were all left behind completely
my feelings and consider this realization that each
initiative framed around 15 thru-hikers who con-
by accident?
abandoned wrapper wasn’t some sort of person-
sciously cleaned up the trails they traveled. An ultralight endeavor it was not.
al attack and I knew nothing of the person who’d But even if they weren’t, in order to reframe my
tossed it aside. Instead, I wiped the emotional
experience, I needed to be okay with that. I con-
slate and moved forward with one thought: I'm
I quickly began to feel insulted on behalf of the
sidered the low-income neighborhood where I
lucky to be here in this beautiful place and will
trail. Apart from the lucky find of a fresh Patagonia
was raised, where we faced a thousand pressing
leave it better than I found it.
chamois—in my size!—crumpled in the dirt, each
matters beyond the ubiquitous litter tossed on
77
I LU STRATI O N C O U RTE SY O F P I N E Y WO O D ATL AS
A Catalogue of Space and Time by Jeffrey Silverstein
L
aunched in 2013 by artists Carolina Porras and Ali-
After clocking over 10,000 miles on the road documenting 30
cia Toldi, Piney Wood Atlas (PWA) is a collaborative
different residences in the American Northwest and Southwest,
research project connecting small, emerging and
Piney Wood Atlas operates through a lens of inclusivity. “Af-
unconventional artist residencies across the country.
fordability ties into accessibility, which is big for us. We feature
Inspired by their initial meeting as artist-in-residence at Else-
spaces that are open to different mediums, gender identities,
where Studios in Paonia, Colorado, Porras and Toldi sought
age, race, everything,” Toldi explains. By focusing on alternative
to create a resource to empower and sustain creative thinkers
and non-standard residencies, the project further dismantles
and their communities.
outdated definitions of who or what an artist should be. ”There is a common misconception that if you aren’t a painter, sculptor
Questioning the impersonal nature of larger residency data-
or traditional artist, these programs aren’t for you. It’s important
bases, they quickly saw a gap PWA could fill. “An in-between
to tell different types of people there is a space for them to
resource was missing for something informational, but also
explore whatever they are working on,” Porras added.
based on the one-on-one experience we had from attending residencies ourselves,” Porras tells us. Through an ongoing se-
Residencies like the Sou’wester Lodge in Seaview, Washing-
ries of regional road trips, Porras and Toldi embed themselves
ton, featured in their Northwest guide, often find scientists and
in the culture and community of host residencies by sharing
mathematicians sharing walls with authors and musicians. “We
conversations, stories and meals with facilitators and artists.
love the idea of putting those types of thinkers right alongside
Their findings, including how-to guides and photo essays, are
fine artists,” Toldi explains. Focus, space and time are touch-
compiled in annual printed guidebooks, online content and
stones of a good experience, however, Porras and Toldi are
workshops. PWA now also offers residency advising sessions,
well aware of the “ripple” effect residency work has in the long
guiding artist residents as well as moderators through funding,
term. “A symbiotic relationship develops between artist and
application or other challenges.
host, where you bring your existing perspective into their town or city and you carry new perspectives you gain out into the world,” Toldi says. Creatives of the world, let’s help keep this ripple effect moving.
78
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79
sr
Some people build walls. Other people climb them. We’re doing both. The North Face is donating $1 million to The Trust for Public Land to help build public climbing walls in U.S. communities. Visit thenorthface.com/walls to learn more.