LABELED

L A B E L E D

REDEFINING THE HUMAN COST OF FASHION THROUGH ETHICAL DESIGN

Senior Thesis Spring 2021 Jillian Deneroff

CONTENTS 01

History of the Problem

02

Literature Review

03

Precedent Studies

04

The Design Solution

05

Schematic Development

06

Design Development

07

Final Design

page 5

page 27

page 35

page 45

page 63

page 77

Design Research

page 13

01

History of the Problem page 5

Over

70%

of workers in the Apparel & Textile Industry do not receive overtime pay.

Minimum Wage Violation Rates Apparel + Textile Manufacturing is Sewing + Garment is Workers

#1 #3

for Industry for Occupation

Bernhardt, “Broken Laws, Unprotected Workers,” UCLA Labor Center

168

27

million

million

children ages 5-14 are forced to work in developing countries.

workers worldwide suffer from work-related illnesses and diseases.

Barton, “True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight,” Boston Consulting Group

2012, Common Objective, “Death, Injury and Health in the Fashion Industry.”

Aug. 2014

Apr. 2013

Nov. 2012

Major Catastrophes

Dhaka Fire

Dhaka, Bangladesh The factory produced clothing articles for various global retailers, operating with minimal fire safeguards (like thousands of other factories).

A 17-hour fire trapped workers on the floors above, killing at least 111 and injuring many others, who are still suffering health effects from burns and smoke inhalation.

Collapse of Rana Plaza Dhaka, Bangladesh

The collapse of 8-story building that housed garment factories manufacturing goods for major retail companies in Europe and North America.

Warnings to avoid using the building after cracks appeared were ignored by owners of the factory.

The building collapsed shortly after, killing 1,132 people and injuring over 2,500.

Kunshan Explosion Kunshan, China

The factory produced car parts for several American companies, including General Motors.

They suffered a catastrophic dust explosion, killing 146 workers and injuring 114.

Individual Impact Soreyda Benedit-Begley Fashion designer, community organizer + activist Living in constant fear of the aggressive male supervisors was a daily occurrence for women in sweatshops in Honduras. Starting at age 14, Soreyda and her friends worked up to 75-hour weeks, sometimes with no breaks, earning about $30. They were being used as economic tools in a production line of fast fashion. Any delay in the line, due to a machine malfunction or human error, would be cause for fire. The same task on a daily basis became daunting for Soreyda, causing her to vividly dream in color.

“

They don’t see you as human. [on the factory officials in Honduras]

Realizing how commercialized the art of fashion had become, Soreyda desired to do something meaningful and valuable, not just profitable. She moved to Lexington, KY and continued her passion for sewing and making art, becoming a sustainable fashion designer. Now, she continues advocating for positive change, raising awareness about the lack of empathy within the garment industry.

Scales of Change Mentorship from Soreyda and scholarly research reveals the opportunities for change within the industry to prevent any future catastrophes on both a large and an individual scale. There is no one path to change or one “solution” to this problem, but small actions in various ways can contribute to future change.

Legislative · Higher powers have stronger voices - get officials involved · Hold companies accountable for their poor actions · Encourage safe facilitation of worker + labor unions · Call leaders to action on various platforms

Other

Social

· Create socially-conscious educational programs and classes

· Encourage a social and/or moral mentality vs. an economic one

· Provide benefits to workers such as healthcare, child care, aging benefits, and career advancement opportunities

· Push for representation and equality internally

· Encourage employees to take university-level courses while working

· Connect everyday consumers to the cause

02

Literature Review page 13

Sustainability in Fashion “Sustainability” has become a buzzword for brands in the fashion industry, and business CEOs now see it as a “must” when incorporating value into their brand identity. During fashion events specifically, it has become more valued, where recycled materials and biophilia play a big role in garment creation and event planning.

Additionally, "carbon neutral" runway shows have been popularized, first with Gabriela Hearst's at New York Fashion Week. Burberry in London and Gucci in Milan soon following suit. Gucci’s parent company, Kering, who owns a multitude of other luxury brands, recently announced its effort to become carbon neutral in its own operations and entire supply chain.

These sustainable practices are challenged in the CNN article “The Problem with Sustainable Fashion” through the notion of what a truly sustainable brand is—it doesn’t just use recycled material or carbon neutral production methods. “In short, to be considered genuinely sustainable, brands may need to entirely transform every aspect of their businesses.” Thus, the term has become a problematic one, causing companies and consumers to question what it means to truly be “sustainable.” Some companies have pushed for plastic-free packaging or minimal water waste, yet have not addressed the millions of garment workers contributing to their fast fashion brand that have no negotiating power when it comes to ethical practices or their contribution to a highly waste-producing industry.

The author questions these terms by stating that a fully sustainable fashion brand is near impossible. At the rate that climate change is increasing, any effort to combat this change as it relates to the fashion industry would be ineffective, as it would not be able to keep up with rapid consumption habits. As a result, it seems the only logical solution moving forward is from the inside out. Which leaves the question, is reinventing the entire fashion industry even possible?

Dixon, Emily. “The Problem with 'Sustainable Fashion'.” CNN, Cable News Network, 11 Oct. 2019, www.cnn. com/style/article/the-problem-with-sustainable-fashion/index.html.

The UN Conference on Trade and Development considers fashion to be the second most polluting industry in the world, with carbon emissions from fashion making up more than that of international flights and maritime shipping combined. This is not a surprise considered clothing production has more than double since the start of the 21st century. Critics predict that by 2030, greenhouse gas emissions from the clothing industry are expected to rise by 50%, unless something is done.

The amount of water an average person drinks over

7

years

=

The amount of water it takes to make

1

pair of jeans

The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion was launched in 2019, comprised of 10 UN Organizations that address the urgency of this environmental and ethical issue. Many statistics are used for environmental standpoints, yet one arises of a more ethical issue: 93 billion cubic meters of water are used by the fashion industry annually, which is enough for five million people to survive. Analysis indicates that changing production methods isn’t enough—a total mindset shift of the population needs to take place in order to reduce over-production that contributes to a fast-fashion economy.

It was concluded that the only way to end this era of fast-fashion is to change consumption methods entirely, transitioning from a throwaway culture to one of pride. Consumers must wear an item for double the time that they do now in order to make a difference, finding value in their garments and extending their lifetime.

Applicable to this thesis, providing a new means of consumption through purchasing habits and educational awareness is a small step in the direction of reworking the industry as a whole to better reduce the negative environmental and ethical impacts discussed.

“UN Launches Drive to Highlight Environmental Cost of Staying Fashionable.” United Nations, UN News, 25 Mar. 2019, news.un.org/en/story/2019/03/1035161.

The Pulse Score analyzes the fashion industry’s environmental and social performance, working with the Global Fashion Agenda, the Boston Consulting Group, and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. The report revealed that the pace of sustainability progress in the fashion industry slowed by 1/3 in 2019 and would not move fast enough to counterbalance the harmful impact to the fashion industry.

2019 Pulse Score:

42 100

“

It is up to fashion leaders to drive large-scale impact and influence consumer perceptions.

The Paris Agreement has an objective to keep global warming below 1.5 degrees Celsius. If the Pulse Score does not improve within the next few years, then the fashion industry will be a net contributor in failing to achieve this objective. The desire for sustainable practices in fashion in consumers, however, is not enough to meet the social and environmental needs. Changes moving forward must be large in scale and high in a social hierarchy.

Companies must rework their business models, but it is up to leaders and stakeholders across an entire chain to enforce sustainable practices. Governments must collaborate with businesses to make impactful industry changes, and the entire fashion industry as a whole needs to dedicate value to accelerating change for future social and environmental solutions.

Other articles under the Global Fashion Agenda website dedicate resources and reports to understanding fashion as it impacts climate change. Many are inapplicable to the thesis topic, but few are useful for summarizing industry change. One resource on advocacy and policy states how they have introduced policy briefs, position papers, roundtables and commitments to policymakers and legislation with the goal of creating a circular fashion system moving forward. The 2020 commitment was signed by 90 brands and retailers, representing about 12.5% of the global fashion industry by sales volume. An additional agenda summarizes the Eight Guiding Priorities for Fashion Executives: Supply Chain Traceability, Combating Climate Change, Efficient Use of Water, Energy, and Chemicals, Respectful and Secure Working Environments, Sustainable Material Mix, Circular Fashion System, Promotion of Better Wage Systems, and a Fourth Industrial Revolution. Other initiatives discuss furthering this impact, reflecting the sustainable aspirations of apparel companies in an improved industry.

“Pulse of the Fashion Industry 2019 Update.” Global Fashion Agenda, 7 May 2019, www.globalfashionagenda.com/pulse-of-fashion-industry-2019-update-released/#.

Contributing over $1.3 trillion dollars to the global economy and employing 300 million people, the fashion industry is one of the most competitive and dynamic economic environments of today. Business strategies and marketing approaches continually need diversification in order to satisfy the needs of both older and younger generations as the industry expands. Since the 2008 financial crises, there has been slower growth in developed markets and flat growth in developing countries, but the overall demand for customized and personalized fashion at lower prices continues to grow.

As digital platforms and marketing strategies are becoming prevalent in the fashion market, online sales are rapidly increasing.

This is especially true in the luxury market, which makes up 13% of the total fashion market (2020). Technology improvement over the years has provided and will continue to“provide new opportunities, like reduction in labor costs, localization of materials/products, and an increase in the sustainability processes.” (p. 3). The International Labor Organization estimates that more than half of all salaried workers will be displaced by automation/advanced technologies in the fashion industry in the coming years. As a result, companies must be agile to keep up with emerging trends in technology; this flexibility desire has led to the creation of big conglomerates that make fashion brands less insecure about possible challenges of the global market.

“Fast fashion,” a term first coined in 1989, is an economic phenomenon that has allowed everyone to

dress following the latest trends. Strong brands that are able to compete successfully in the market today are adapting to this cycle of rapid growth, social media influence, and e-commerce focused distribution. That being said, companies have turned away from network and geographic expansion in favor of improving existing client relationships. This stems from consumers desire for transparency among the value chain, holding companies accountable for their work and fast fashion practices. Brands have therefore “publicly fixed sustainability goals and set standards for imports of fabrics, and they are promoting initiatives for improving innovations in the materials used for producing fashion items.” (p. 3) New initiatives based on a circular economy have also arisen recently; a circular economy is able to regenerate itself, using organic/renewable materials or technical/nonrenewable ones that cyclically rotate through the production process. Many companies are exploring circular models, but lack technical and economic resources, comprehensive solutions, adequate infrastructure, and other means to achieving an internal process change.

The 2030 Agenda, however, has aimed to combat this by managing market resources rather than production; transitioning from a linear system to a circular one requires an entirely new business model that this approach aims to achieve. In the meantime, fashion brands can and have been able to improve their reputation by encompassing social responsibility in their mission and participating in a “product manufacturing cycle with a view to both economic and environmental sustainability” (p. 5).

A 2020 statistical study was conducted to understand the effects of gender and age on sustainability practices as it relates to fashion.

“Historically, the fashion industry has been associated with excessive consumerism, extremely high costs, elitism, or guilty pleasures” (p. 6). Fortunately, the new generations are more socially and environmentally conscious, having high expectations of fashion brands when it comes to ethical production. Paying attention to the younger generation’s desire for sustainability practices and willingness to spend more on a responsible product can be a positive source of long-lasting competitive advantage for companies.

As Gen Z enters the labor market, the internal processes will drastically change due to their strong social and environmental consciouses.

The sample also clearly showed an interest in sustainability in fashion by female respondents as opposed to male (p. 12).

The results of the entire study show increasing attention to the economic, social, and environmental impact of fashion as the textile sector continues to face heavy criticism. Underdeveloped countries within the sector are not only characterized by tons of waste on a daily basis that negatively impact the environment, but also with social effects like low wages, exaggerated working hours, child labor, and slavery conditions. Even with various companies launching campaigns and increasing efforts to combat these ethical dilemmas, the process towards a globally sustainable fashion industry has a long way to succeed.

Gazzola, Patrizia, et al. (PDF) Trends in the Fashion Industry. The Perception of Sustainability and Circular Economy: A Gender/Generation Quantitative Approach, Sustainability MDPI, 2 Apr. 2020.

“True-Luxury” consumers, those seeking extravagance, fun, and creativity in fashion, make up the largest contribution of fashion growth at 30% of the global market. A global consumer report by Boston Consulting Group aims to understand emerging trends and provide insight in the luxury market as it relates to larger moral issues Luxury markets have an expected annual growth of 4-5% until 2025. Analyzing generational influences, it was determined that Generation Z has a unique set of behaviors and values, and 64% are influenced by sustainability when making purchases, compared to 59% of all True-Luxury consumers.

Trends in the fashion industry were therefore categorized into 12 behavioral segments under three titles:

1

New and Emerging -Collaborations -Second-hand

2

Keeps Growing -Sustainability -Luxury Casualwear -Influencers -Social Media -Online

3

Stabilizing -Omnichannel -Mono-Brand Stores -Made-in -Mix & Match -Customization

Collaborations being the number one influence in luxury consumerism was highly prevalent in American consumers, with 82% of respondents aware of artist collaboration with high-end fashion brands, such as an Adidas & Yeezy collaboration. Furthermore, an increasing use of social media was shown to drive luxury consumerism, with 95% of Generation Z participating.

Social issues played a role in the study as it relates to consumer awareness and purchasing habits:

56% of consumers investigate a brand's social responsibility.

For a given item, over 60% would purchase from the more sustainable brand. This was a global analysis, but a U.S. analysis showed less than 50% for the latter. That being said, the thesis location in the U.S. is an opportunity to raise awareness about sustainable luxury fashion with the hope of increasing that statistic in the future.

Christine Barton, et al. (PDF) 2019 True-Luxury Global Consumer Insight, 6th Edition. Boston Consulting Group, Altagamma, 17 Apr. 2019.

Labor in Fashion Large-scale fashion industry catastrophes in the past decade have resulted in the deaths of thousands of garment workers. Although these incidents are on the decline, work related injuries, illnesses, and even deaths still continue globally. There is no single organization tracking such factory accidents, but the article, “Death, Injury, and Health in the Fashion Industry,” by Common Objective gathers reports from various sources to better understand such incidents.

It is estimated that there will be 1.6 million recorded annual injuries in garment factories by 2030, resulting from

“exposure to and mishandling of hazardous chemicals and substances, poor equipment and inadequate training for operating machinery, factory fires and poor safety procedures,” and more. Additional research (see Bernhardt) indicates that less than 10% of injuries are reported, so this projection is probable to be ten times that amount.

Work-related diseases and illnesses top that, with an estimated 27 million cases. Such illnesses and disease can be a result of, but are not limited to, long-term exposure to chemicals in textile processing (particularly dyeing), noise levels, low light levels, ergonomic issues, exposure to lint, dust, or other tiny fibers that contribute to lung disease, and mental insecurity as a result of working conditions. There have been over 1,600 confirmed deaths due to accidents at garment and textile factories since 2012, which is believed to be significantly under the true number, due to false or lack of reporting. The figure on the next page, based on data from the International Labour Organization’s “Vision Zero Fund,” contains significant information on work-related deaths, injuries, and diseases.

Common Objective. “Death, Injury and Health in the Fashion Industry.” Common Objective, CO, 31 May 2018, www.commonobjective.co/article/death-injury-andhealth-in-the-fashion-industry.

Advocates and policy makers who have organized for change within the labor industry have lacked resources or reliable data in the past to validate their concerns. Broken Laws, Unprotected Workers exposes the systematic and routine violations within the labor industry and is the first study of its kind -- conducting a survey of over 4,000 workers in low-wage industries in the three-largest U.S. cities:

1

Chicago

2

New York

3

Los Angeles

Reaching vulnerable workers was a core method for this study to truly identify the individuals in dire need of work, regardless of the conditions. Doing so furthered the statistical accuracy needed to represent the discrimination, hazardous working conditions, and other violations as a whole. Identifying responsible parties for ethical and legal violations within a core part the American economy was a driving factor in the study.

Various findings confirmed many predictions about the labor industry, one being the fear of retaliation.

“Despite the existence of legal protection from retaliation, many workers chose not to make complaints to their employers….even if they had experienced a serious problem such as dangerous working conditions, discrimination or not being paid the minimum wage.” (p. 24). Reasons were fear of losing their job, fear of hours or wages cut, or belief that it would not make any difference if they had spoken up. Of the workers who did speak up, 43% experienced retaliation from their employer or supervisor as a direct result; methods of retaliation are charted in Figure 3.3 on the next page.

Another level of analysis was worker compensation due to injury. Only eight percent of workers who experienced an injury filed for a compensation claim for that injury, demonstrating the ineffective system for supporting workers. Admitting injury most likely resulted in being fired, being forced to work despite the injury, being threatened with deportation, or other immoral, but not illegal, response (p. 25-26). Hourly and overtime pay were among the violations discovered in the study. Furthermore, California requires adequate rest breaks during workers’ shifts. Rest break violations, including being denied a break or receiving a shortened break, accounted for 77% of workers in Los Angeles (p. 27).

85%

of those surveyed in the New York City and Los Angeles areas did not receive the legally required wage for working overtime hours (p. 26).

The overtime violation rate for the Apparel & Textile Industry as a whole is

Another section of the report analyzes Minimum Wage Violation Rates by Industry and Occupation, with Apparel & Textile Manufacturing as number one for Industry (42.6%) and Sewing & Garment Workers as number three for Occupation (43.2%) (p. 31). Further analyzing wage violation based upon gender and nationality will be influential in the thesis as the proposed solution will include diverse employee representation (see Figure 5.1).

71%

Wage theft is a topic of further analysis as it adversely impacts the communities of low-wage workers, who spend the large majority of their earnings on basic necessities, circulating their earnings through local businesses and jobs. The study estimated that in a given week, approximately 1,114,074 workers in the three cities had at least one pay-based violation, detrimental to economic growth of these communities at large (p. 50).

When discussing solution methods, it was no surprise that the root rested in government enforcement.

Protecting immigrants in the workplace, strengthening penalties for violations, fostering the efforts of worker unions, proactive enforcement, and other public policies should hold “agencies responsible for enforcing wage and hour, health and safety, prevailing wage, anti-discrimination, and right-to-organize laws.” (p. 52). Much of this study is inapplicable to the apparel industry, yet provides deeper insight into the domestic working conditions of a similar demographic, and therefore proves as beneficial research to the thesis.

Bernhardt, A., et al. (2009). (PDF) Broken Laws, Unprotected Workers: Violations of Employment and Labor Laws in America's Cities. UCLA: Institute for Research on Labor and Employment.

Many of the industrial jobs in greater L.A. are in the garment sector, with the Fashion District employing many Latino and Asian immigrants. The Ms. Foundation for Women, Garment Worker Center, Research Action Design, and the UCLA Labor Center surveyed 82 garment workers in the L.A. Fashion District to understand the demand for childcare. Eighty of the participants were female immigrants from Mexico.

“The flow of migrants to California since the 1970’s has been highly feminized…and nearly 1 in 10 workers are undocumented” (p. 2). With these demographic changes comes economic inequality, resulting from wage theft, low wages, poor working conditions.

The findings of this study show that garment workers spend 1/3 of their weekly income on childcare, compensating their childcare providers with food, paying for their utility bills, or other exchanges. Very few workers, only 4%, access government subsidies or assistance programs to help with childcare needs and only 6% access daycare centers. Many workers rely on family or friends to take care of their child(ren), but express the desire for a structured educational program. This is difficult, though, as immigration status, language, literacy, and cultural barriers are prevalent (p. 3).

The growing need for affordable childcare is nationwide, as some costs have outpaced college tuition. California also cut $1 billion in early childhood education funds after the 2008 economic recession, placing 300,000 parents and children on the waiting list for subsidies (p. 3). Some legislation has had positive intentions with addressing this problem. The Race to the Top Fund of the 2012 Obama Administration aimed to “increase access to highquality, early education programs and services for low income and English language learners who are infants and toddlers.” (p. 4). Despite the desire to positively impact low-income communities, these programs have been spread thin.

The report concludes with recommendations for increasing access to childcare: assistance programs that are linguistically and culturally appropriate, increased funding for subsidies, a raised minimum-wage, expansion and enforcement of labor laws (e.g. paid sick leave), access to educational opportunities, and implementation of child care into future planning processes.

Hanging By a Thread: Los Angeles Garment Workers’ Struggle to Access Quality Care for their Children. (PDF). Ms. Foundation for Women, Garment Worker Center, Research Action Design, and the UCLA LaborCenter, 2015.

Brand transparency has become extremely important in the past decade, especially in the aftermath of labor disasters. Global companies have a responsibility to ensure the right of workers, and visibility has been key in ensuring this follows through the supply chain. Eight international labor rights groups and global unions joined with Human Rights Watch to advocate for transparency in the garment industry. This 2016 “transparency pledge”, draws from good industry practices and sets the stage for pushing factory supplier information.

Almost 40 companies have now provided supplier information, included leading brands like Gap, Levi’s, and Nike. However, some fast fashion brands have still kept that information private, including Walmart. By keeping their information disclosed, some companies may be engaging in illegally subcontracted factories, leading to the worst labor abuses where monitoring is not upheld. Their reasoning for rejecting transparency involves a fear of competitive disadvantage, however companies who have publicly shared such information have reported no such findings.

Following the Rana Plaza collapse, many companies signed a commitment to the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety, proving their commitment to transparency. However, this Accord is limited to just Bangladesh, so companies who have signed this could still be taking advantage of workers in other global supply factories.

Furthermore, the agreement does not address the labor abuses of women in factories.

The social imperative of providing transparency has only seemed to provide positive benefits for those company its involved. Moving forward, it is imperative that legislative entities step forward and enforce strict regulations, as well as requiring apparel and footwear companies to publish supplier factory information. Some international government involvement has occurred, like the UK Modern Slavery Act and a French human rights law, but they haven’t been held to the high standard they need to in order to ensure fair treatment of workers in the garment industry.

Kashyap, Aruna. “When Clothing Labels Are a Matter of Life or Death.” Human Rights Watch, The Daily Beast, 28 Oct. 2020, www.hrw.org/news/2018/05/02/whenclothing-labels-are-matter-life-or-death#.

A common misconception among consumers revolves around the “made in” process. Many retail consumers believe that purchasing a “Made in the U.S.A.” label is inherently ethical. However, sweatshop garment factories do exist inside U.S. borders, exposing workers to verbally and physically abusive conditions for poverty-level wages.

A report from the Clean Clothes Campaign summarizes how many of these workers are being exploited for their services due to their immigration status. An immigrant in a sweatshop may be granted temporary legal status as they are employed, yet termination of the relationship immediately revokes that status, putting immense pressure on immigrant workers.

“

enough to steal our health

:

Domestic sweatshop workers are no exception, as the US Department of Labor (DOL) found labor law violations in 93 percent of cases in just the L.A. area. A domestic sweatshop is any factory that violates two or more labor laws, with the most prominent violation being a below-minimum wage of around $5 or $6/hour with no overtime pay for up to 12-hour shifts. The violations made in the L.A. area accounted for over 30 surrounding retailers, including Forever 21, Urban Outfitters, and TJ Maxx. Retailers commonly turn a blind eye when sweatshop-like conditions arise, as it poses a “threat” to their seemingly successful supply chain.

Labels are a way to determine whether or not clothes are ethically made.

Although “Made in the U.S.A.” does not designate ethical labor, other private labels do. Union-Made or Fair Trade labels indicate that clothes were made by workers who were lifted out of sweatshop conditions, who organize and advocate for better wages and working conditions, and who make clothing under healthy conditions and for community development (see images below).

“Does Made in the USA Mean Not In a Sweatshop?” Green America, www.greenamerica.org/fair-labor-home/does-made-usa-mean-not-sweatshop.

Dirty Threads, Dangerous Factories: Health and Safety in Los Angeles’ Fashion Industry is a report that surveyed 307 garment workers in the Los Angeles area in relation to health and safety conditions, working with the Garment Worker Center (GWC), the UCLA Labor Center, UCLA Labor Occupational Safety and Health, and various council members. Similar to what this thesis envelopes, the GWC is an L.A.-based organization that "addresses the systemic problems of wage theft, unsafe and healthy working conditions, and abusive and inhumane treatment faced by workers” (p. 1).

L.A. is the center of the country’s garment manufacturing industry, yet research on the specific

health and safety conditions faced by workers is lacking. This report directly addresses these concerns, hoping to provide insight on the city’s garment sector. Key findings of the reports include dusty, hot, dirty, and poorly ventilated factories and a dangerous and unsafe working environment. 82% never received health or safety training, indicating a key safety concern. The payment system currently in place is one of compensation; a piece rate system that allows workers to earn more by working quickly (for each piece of clothing they produce) has contributed to wage theft and an unhealthy workplace. Ending this negative systemic method is urgent to combat the poor conditions of the garment industry workers.

Key to L.A.’s seemingly “successful” manufacturing industry is the popularity of fast fashion:

“

The fast fashion industry thrives in the city for a few reasons. L.A. has a well-established cut and sew manufacturing base for quick, specialized, and small volume production that exists in close proximity to consumer trends, a large number of fashion company headquarters, and the Asian Pacific Rim and North American market circuit. Perhaps even more critical, the industry relies on city’s vast population of immigrant workers from Latin America and Asia for abundant lowwage labor. This workforce, despite being vital to the fast fashion industry, is frequently subject to exploitative, unhealthy, and dangerous workplace conditions.

As a result of this fast fashion phenomenon, most workers make less than minimum wage working a 60-hour week. The accelerated pace of production causes stores to change out their clothing up to twice a week, and small to medium-sized clothing companies in L.A. are subcontracted to meet these quick consumer demands.

These quick deadlines also enhance the probability of worker injuries.

In 1999, California passed the Assembly Bill 633 (AB 633) to guarantee a minimum living wage and workplace protections for garment workers (p. 6). But, a study published six years later concluded that the law was largely unenforced. Later 2002 and 2008 studies expanded on these dangerous working conditions, reporting various injuries that went highly unreported by workers due to fear of their employer. That being said, workers continued to sit in unsupportive stations for long periods of time, operating machines in precise repetition. Other studies have confirmed the lack of adjustable workstations leading to health problems, like shoulder, back, and hip injuries and long-term musculoskeletal and cardiovascular diseases. Additionally, respiratory illnesses have been caused by the following:

1

poor ventilation

2

airborne fiber dust

3

toxic chemical exposure

Historical studies of the garment sector in this report highlight the unethical industry standards that have existed long before this recent era of “fast fashion.”

The first factory fire reported was in 1911 in New York, killing 146 workers. The first recognized case of modern-day slave labor in the U.S. (since the abolishment) was in 1995 in a garment factory in El Monte, California. Working conditions, specifically for immigrant women, have been poor throughout the 20th century, despite the unionization of the 20s and 30s. Following the historical evidence, the GWC reports findings from those surveyed, concluding that garment workers in L.A. earned an average of $5.15 an hour (2015). A year later, the U.S. Department of Labor reported an 85% rate of violation of federal wage and hour laws in L.A. garment factories.

Popular brands like Forever 21 and TJ Maxx were large contributors to this violation (p. 13).

Findings of the study showed that almost 72% of workers observed their factories brimming with dust, 60% reported poor and inefficient ventilation, and many reported lack of proper protective equipment, having to use their own leftover scraps of fabric as masks. Goggles or glasses were not provided, causing the exposure to chemicals and dust to burn their eyes and compromise their vision. Over 1/3 of workers reported the presence of cockroaches, rats, and mice and 1/5 reported the presence of mold. Other unsanitary and unsafe conditions included, but were not limited to, soiled and unmaintained bathrooms, blocked safety exists, poorly lit workspaces, an absence of first aid kits (required by law), extreme heat reaching triple digits in temperature, limited access to windows, and lack of potable or clean water.

A warehouse study in the Inland Empire showed that the most serious health concerns were a result of excessive heat and were easily avoidable with preventative measures, such as potable drinking water, drinking breaks, quality ventilation, and pacing and shifting work tasks (p. 18). Rather than forcing workers to provide their own personal fans or clean drinking water, these methods are an inexpensive way to improve working conditions.

2

3

of workers do not receive a rest break in a

10 hour

workday, a violation of state law.

Verbal and physical abuse was also reported, specifically harassment that was ageist, discriminatory, or showing favoritism:

“

Many times, the managers or the people in charge tend to give more work to the younger or prettier girls that come into work. It doesn’t matter how long we have been working there.

If the person in charge likes the way one of the younger girls look, they give them the attention and work. The older women are often called old hags, and sometimes we are told that we are ugly and useless. They humiliate and laugh at our expense (Garment Trimmer, p. 23).

Following the findings of the survey, the report shows recommendations for the industry moving forward, starting with brand accountability in written agreements and amending loopholes in already existing legislation. For example, the SB1167 bill directs Cal/OSHA to adopt a standard to prevent heat-related illnesses, but workplaces of which this should be carried out are not specified. A major component to future change is ending the piece-rate pay system and adopting a fair wage. A final recommendation is the collaboration with worker centers that can provide resources to workers, allies, and policymakers.

Shadduck-Hernández, Janna, et al. (PDF). Dirty Threads, Dangerous Factories: Health and Safety in Los Angeles' Fashion Industry. Garment Worker Center, UCLA Labor Center, UCLA Labor Occupational Safety and Health, Dec. 2016.

03

Precedent Studies page 27

The Ethical Fashion Initiative EFI is a program of the International Trade Centre, working in compliance with the Code of Conduct, Fair Labour Standards, and Living Wage. EFI’s international marketplace provides employment for artisans to work their way out of poverty.

It connects marginalized artisan communities in challenging and remote locations with global lifestyle brands, providing healthy and fair working conditions that not only benefit but also bring pride and dignity to the many unique artisans of communities.

Born in Nairobi and now spanning three continents, EFI’s impact and community continues to grow through sustainable development, extensive training, and mentorship. Using fashion as a driver for positive change, EFI strives for social and environmental justice, inclusivity, and sustainable development.

EFI also hosts a design accelerator program, a venture studio, and a podcast. The accelerator program helps African brands accelerate their business in the global marketplace. The Venture Studio equips businesses with the with the tools they need to achieve impact. The podcast discusses ways that everyday consumers can use fashion as a force for good.

Ethical Fashion Initiative, 16 Feb. 2021, ethicalfashioninitiative.org/.

The Copenhagen Fashion Summit CFS+ is the world’s leading business event on sustainability in fashion, organized by the Global Fashion Agenda and on its 11th year in action. The Summit calls for legislative action and brand involvement towards a larger goal of sustainable fashion--and one that is not just talked about but actually implemented.

By backing some of the largest companies in the world, like Kering (who owns Gucci among other luxury brands), H&M, and Target, CFS+ is “more than a hub of conversation about sourcing raw materials, cleaning supply chains and closing the product life cycle loop.” It provides momentum for a public commitment to change, beginning with a circular model of fashion, where an entire business model is rooted in a circular life cycle of materials to reduce waste.

Other reports within CFS+ have debuted, including “Fashion Focus: the Fundamental Right to a Living Wage.” Members of a women’s rights organization called The Circle argue that “poverty wages” (minimum wage) paid to garment workers do not equate to a living wage, putting many companies in violation of international labor laws.

CFS+ continues to work towards a sustainable future even with the current challenges of the world; rebuilding the industry after the COVID-19 crisis and responding to racial injustices brought to light in 2020 have been at the forefront of discussion for the community. Addressing these issues and more not only questions the environmental cost of a garment, but also the human cost. Changing businesses from the inside out is the only way to provide resilience moving forward in the industry.

Chan, Emily. “‘We Have A Chance To Reset’: Why The Copenhagen Fashion Summit Is More Critical Than Ever.” British Vogue, British Vogue, 11 Oct. 2020, www. vogue.co.uk/news/article/copenhagen-fashion-summit-eva-kruse.

“Copenhagen Fashion Summit.” CFDA, Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc., cfda.com/resources/sustainability-resources/detail/copenhagen-fashionsummit.

Fernandez, Chantal. “At Copenhagen Summit, Turning Sustainability Commitments Into Action.” The Business of Fashion, The Business of Fashion, 13 May 2017, www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/at-copenhagen-summit-turning-sustainability-commitments-into-action.

Clean Clothes Campaign A global network dedicated to improving working conditions in the garment industry since 1989, founded on the principle that all workers have a fundamental right to good and safe working conditions, to associate freely and bargain collectively, and to earn a living wage.

Mobilizing consumers, lobbying companies and governments, offering support to workers, bringing together trade unions, and advocating for women’s rights and poverty reduction are some of the efforts made by CCC. As a grass-roots network, CCC brings together trade unions and hundreds of organizations in various campaigns to identify local problems and transform them into global actions.

Working to structurally improve working conditions and support empowerment of workers, CCC puts pressure on companies and governments to take responsibility, work in solidarity with organized workers, motivates individual and collective action, advocates for legislative protection, and other means to strengthen a global alliance.

Clean Clothes Campaign, 6 Aug. 2020, cleanclothes.org/.

Fashion Revolution Fashion Revolution is made up of designers, academics, writers, business leaders, policymakers, brands, retailers, marketers, producers, makers, workers, and fashion lovers, valuing people over growth and profit. They are a platform dedicated to enabling visibility and fewer barriers between consumers and producers in the fashion industry, inspiring a culture of transparency and accountability across the value chain.

Fashion Revolution is a diverse movement of people with a mission to end human and environmental exploitation in fashion. Action-oriented and solution focused, they raise awareness of the industry’s most pressing problems.

Aiming to empower change while still celebrating the positive influences of fashion, Fashion Revolution provides tools for people to use their voice and make changes. Specific to Fashion Revolution is the approach at holding companies accountable and never targeting specific individual companies.

“

the industry’s problems are bigger than any one company’s actions.

Two major components of Fashion Revolution are Fashion Revolution Week and Fashion Open Studio. Fashion Revolution Week happens every year in the week of April 24th, the anniversary of the Rana Plaza Collapse. Fashion Open Studio is a week of presentations, talks, openings and workshops celebrating the people and processes behind various creative collections.

Fashion Revolution, 16 Sept. 2020, www.fashionrevolution.org/.

Chelsea Market (Architectural + Interiors Study) A 1.2 million square feet and expanding, Chelsea Market is an indoor food and retail marketplace located in the Chelsea neighborhood of the borough of Manhattan, the heart of New York City’s Meatpacking District.

Distinctive and diverse merchants contribute to a lively marketplace with over nine million visitors annually, enforcing its global perspective. Having strong relationships with food providers and retail tenants, Chelsea Market continues to grow and achieve environmental goals. Introducing food composting and other organic methods to its food vendors has prevented an estimated 1,033 tons of waste from entering landfills.

Chelsea market has strong historical precedence, beginning with the Algonquin Indians, who traded food on the banks of the Hudson River at the same spot. Once the National Biscuit Company’s factory, the “stripped-down” brick architecture incorporates 17 historic buildings, enhancing its unique charm.

Continued renovation by STUDIOS Architecture enhances the industrial qualities existing while providing an upscale character reflecting its location. Some of the materiality used in renovation includes steel, acrylic panels, energy-conserving LEDS, and restored brick arches along the facade.

“Chapter 5: Lessons from the Field.” Cultivating Development: Trends and Opportunities at the Intersection of Food and Real Estate, Urban Land Institute, 2016, pp. 28–29.

“Chelsea Market.” STUDIOS Architecture, studios.com/chelsea-market.html.

“Chelsea Market Marquee.” Architizer, 18 Mar. 2016, architizer.com/projects/chelsea-market-marquee/.

“Directory - Chelsea Local.” Chelsea Market, www.chelseamarket.com/directory-chelsea-local.

04

The Design Solution page 35

RE -L A BEL ED The world of clothing today revolves around fast production at low costs, allowing consumers to buy more and spend less. Yet, this fast fashion takeover has quickly become notorious for its unsustainability, with the industry being the second largest polluter in the world. Damaging the resources of future generations and contributing to a polluted environment with enormous amounts of waste is not the most unethical part of the industry; the underpaid, undervalued workers who make the hottest items on the runway and in the world of fashion reap no benefits working in poor and dangerous conditions.

An increasing awareness for ethical fashion standards comes with a lack of a proper resources to connect those already involved and those who would like to be involved. Providing a building whose sole occupants are these individuals will create a community that pioneers the transformation of the fashion industry. The building program will be catered towards the growing needs of the fashion world and the faces behind the industry in a modern, sustainable, and ethical manner.

Located in Los Angeles, California, RE-LABELED is a hub supporting the ethical fashion community. Redefining what it means to be a garment worker in the world of fashion, the building will provide individuals with a sense of pride and dignity, placing human value over economic profit. Multi-functional with educational, corporate, fashion, and community spaces, the building will foster a sense of community, pioneering the transformation of the fashion industry towards a more ethical future for all.

EMPOWER

CHA

ANGE

IMPACT

Location - Los Angeles, CA Population: 3.99 million Median Age: 35.8

26%

49% Hispanic 28% White 11% Asian 9% Black 3% Other

enrolled in school

19.1%

in poverty (mostly females ages 25-34)

Median Household Income: $62,474

#1 Most Common Industry: Health Care + Social Assistance #2 Most Common Industry: Retail Trade

Why L.A.?

Los Angeles almost 11 times more densely concentrated with clothing factories than anywhere else in the U.S., with the majority of industrial manufacturing jobs being in the garment sector. Even with some of the most progressive labor laws, thousands of garment workers are placed in unhealthy and dangerous working conditions daily.

90%

of garment workers do not receive overtime pay.

77%

of garment workers did not receive a rest break.

93%

of employers violated garment labor laws.

74%

of garment workers complained of dirty drinking water.

85%

of employers violated federal wage and hour laws.

72%

of garment workers reported a large amount of dust.

L.A. Fashion District 42% millennial population

Mostly female and immigrants from Mexico

$4.4B generated in pay roll annually 1.5 million annual visitors 5 annual market weeks

70% wholesale retailers 4,000+ independent retail and wholesale businesses 800+ restaurants, bars, retail, and night life 56 independent artists and galleries 45,500+ residential units 8,000+ hotel rooms

More walkable than the rest of downtown L.A. 21% more likely to use public transit

Largest selection of textiles in the U.S.

Building 1114 S Los Angeles St. Los Angeles, CA 90015

SOUTH PARK

DOWNTOWN LOS ANGELES

FASHION DISTRICT

· Built in 1920 · 25,112 of 52,080 total SF available · Basement level + 3 floors · 24 hr access · Surface parking available · Building Class C, Zoning M2 LA

100

transit score

93

walk score

Within 10 min. walking distance: 3 min. to Garment District 4 min. to Fashion District Mall 4 min. to Downtown LA Hotel 4 min. to nearest parking garage 5 min. to nearest hospital 7 min. to a trade school 9 min. to the City Market of LA

Preliminary Branding

RE

LABELED

JohnDoe

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re labeled

re labeled

Source Code Variable

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re labeled

re

labeled

Avenir

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re

re labeled

labeled

re labeled

Materials Inspiration

05

Schematic Development page 45

Branding Devleopment

RE - L A BEL ED ROUNDED ELEGANCE

ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ 1234567890 Linux Biolinum, Regular

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Programming community support · resource + fabric library · child care · recreational lounge create · photography studio · media center

corporate

work · individual offices · open office space · conference rooms

· rooftop courtyard

learn · sewing + dressmaking · business acumen · design studio

*

rest · touchdown spaces · break + lounge space · B.O.H. spaces

show · runway space · artisan gallery

* VERTICAL CIRCULATION

shop · local artisan stands · showcased fashion

retail satellite centers · resource library · affordable child care · university courses · video-enabled media center

other · storage · mechanical · electrical · bathrooms

Space Planning

R E-LABELE D FASHION · artisan stands · gallery · retail store · backstage event spaces

COMMUNITY ROOFTOP · child play area

EDUCATIONAL LEVEL THREE · makers’ studio · fabric library · photo studio · media center · meeting space

FLOOR THREE · child care · lounge FLOOR TWO · lounge

LEVEL TWO · classroom · resource library

CORPORATE · open office · conference space

LEVEL ONE not to scale

TENANT(S) OCCUPIED

PRIVATE RESIDENTIAL LOBBY UP DN

RESIDENTIAL ELEVATOR TO LEVEL TWO

OUT OF SCOPE

UP

K03G

FLOOR TO CEILING DIGITAL WALL DISPLAY OF RUNWAY SHOWS, SPANNING LENGTH OF ENTIRE INTERIOR WALL

K03G

UP

Entry View

Open Office View to Level Two

LEVEL TWO not to scale

RESIDENTIAL OCCUPIED UP DN

OPEN TO BELOW OUT OF SCOPE

OPEN TO BELOW

DIGITAL DISPLAYS OF RE-LABELED IMPACT, GARMENT WORKERS, STUDENTS, ARTISTS

DN

UP

Mezzazine Seating

Soreyda BeneditBegley, a Lexingtonbased fashion designer and activist, stressed the importance of connecting consumers to the cause.

Digital screens displaying garment worker conditions

Classroom View to Lounge

LEVEL THREE not to scale

CHILD CARE ELEVATOR TO ROOF (LOCKED ACCESS) UP DN

BACK OF HOUSE AND STORAGE FOR RUNWAY EVENTS

CUSTOM ARTISAN STANDS

[CUSTOM RETAIL SPACE DESIGN ]

DN

UP

Child Care Center

CHILD CARE ELEVATOR TO ROOF (LOCKED ACCESS) UP DN

Garment workers in L.A. spend 1/3 of their weekly income on childcare and only 6% access daycare centers. Many workers rely on family or friends to take care of their child(ren), but express the desire for a structured educational program.

UCLA Labor Center

CUSTOM ARTISAN STANDS

[CUSTOM RETAIL SPACE DESIGN ]

DN

UP

-

Level Three Lounge View to Makers’ Studio

CHILD CARE ELEVATOR TO ROOF (LOCKED ACCESS) UP DN

Custom Artisan Booth

CUSTOM ARTISAN STANDS

[CUSTOM RETAIL SPACE DESIGN ]

Plan View

ROOFTOP not to scale

DN

RIDGE-STYLE SKYLIGHT

DN

Covered Work + Lounge

Open Work + Lounge

Front Elevation (not to scale)

West Section (not to scale)

06

Design Development page 63

IMPACT CHANGE EMPOWER

IMPACT CHANGE EMPOWER

Labeled Plans (sqft.)

LEVEL ONE not to scale

LEVEL TWO not to scale

LEVEL THREE not to scale

ROOFTOP not to scale

Custom Artisan Stands

Collapsed + Stored Away

Plan View

Retail Custom Components Shelving Unit

Front Elevation

3D View

Side Section

Side Elevation

3D View

Display Unit

Plan View

Additional Custom Components Column

Front Elevation

3D View

Front Elevation

Ceiling Baffle

3D View

07

Final Design page 77

RE -L A BEL ED

A hub supporting the ethical fashion community.

FASHION · artisan stands · gallery · retail store · backstage event spaces

COMMUNITY ROOFTOP · child play area

EDUCATIONAL LEVEL THREE · makers’ studio · fabric library · photo studio · media center · meeting space

FLOOR THREE · child care · lounge FLOOR TWO · lounge

LEVEL TWO · classroom · resource library

CORPORATE · open office · conference space

IMPACT CHANGE EMPOWER

LEVEL ONE not to scale

LEVEL TWO not to scale

IMPACT CHANGE EMPOWER

Soreyda Benedit-Begley stressed the importance of connecting consumers to the cause.

ETHICAL TEXTURES

existing concrete floors, refurbished

cork boards + artisan stands

seating upholstery

seating upholstery

seating upholstery

modular lounge furniture upholstery

Garment workers in L.A. spend 1/3 of their weekly income on childcare and only 6% access daycare centers. Many workers rely on family or friends to take care of their child(ren), but express the UCLA Labor Center desire for a structured educational program.

NORMAL

LEVEL THREE not to scale

RUNWAY EVENT

IMPACT CHANGE EMPOWER

Artisan Stands:

Opportunity for local artists to show + sell their designs · Modular · Collapsible + on casters · Cork material (sustainable + ethical) · Customizable: digital screens, table, shelves, + a peg board display for hanging clothes

IMPACT CHANGE EMPOWER

Done Good

Made Trade

Wunder Workshop

Ten Thousand Villages

DivisionACCESS 10 PRIVATE Specialties TO Specialties CHILD PLAY

DN

42" RETAINING Division 31 Earthwork Earthwork WALLS (SOLID)

Division 04 10' WALLS Masonry Masonry (HATCHED)

-

-

DN

NORMAL

ROOFTOP not to scale

DN

DN

RUNWAY EVENT

Fashion Revolution