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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JUNE 2017

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JUNE 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

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PREMIER AT-SHOW DELIVERY DESTINATION

M O N DAY, J U N E 5 – T H U R S DAY, J U N E 8 , 2 0 1 7 TROPICANA LAS VEGAS, LAS VEGAS TH E INDUSTRY’ S #1 SO UR CE F OR AT- S H OW D E LI V E RY D U RI N G LAS V E GAS JE WELRY W E EK! C re a t e d exc l u s i ve l y t o s e c u re i n s t a n t i nve n t o r y a n d t h e l a t e s t f a s h i o n t re n d s r i g h t w h e n yo u n e e d t h e m .

H e l d i n p a r t n e r s h i p w i t h J C K , e a c h J I S E xc h a n g e a t t e n d e e b a d g e a l s o i n c l u d e s e n t r y i n t o J C K L a s Ve g a s a n d u n l i m i t e d ex p re s s s h u t t l e t ra n s p o r t a t i o n b e t we e n M a n d a l ay B ay a n d t h e Tro p i c a n a e a c h s h ow d ay.

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TOP 5 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT JIS EXCHANGE 1. JIS EXCHANGE IS THE #1 AT-SHOW DELIVERY EVENT JIS Exchange is your premier source for at-show delivery during JCK’s Las Vegas Jewelry Week. Only a show like this can give you the inventory you need to immediately stock your showcases with everything your customer’s are clamoring for. With an impressive

array of designs and prices, there are sure to be product offerings for everyone. Whether you’re looking for high-quality diamond jewlery, fashion jewelry, gold, or something else, you’ll find it all and much more at JIS Exchange.

2. SHOW FLOOR ALMOST SOLD OUT! With two full floors of the best hand-selected immediate delivery exhibitors from JIS Miami, JCK Las Vegas, and many new brands, JIS Exchange is filled with quality vendors. At the Show, you’ll find Americas Gold, Comex, Gold-N-Diamonds Inc, Jewelry Land, Ken Craft, SYK, Zack’s Fine Jewelry, and many more. See who else is exhibiting and start planning your Las Vegas agenda by visiting

jisshow.com/exchange. If you’re using the JCK Show Guide or Pocket Planner to build your agenda, look for the JIS Exchange exhibitor listing section.

3. ONE BADGE, TWO SHOWS…AND LUNCH! A JIS Exchange attendee badge doesn’t just provide access to JIS Exchange, but it is your entry pass onto the JCK Las Vegas Show Floor. JCK Las Vegas badges work the same and are accepted for entry into JIS Exchange. So you only need one badge from either

show to get access to both events; no need to register for each event separately or wait in registration lines for new badges. New this year, JIS Exchange has convenient Grab n’ Go lunch options right on the Show Floor. Avoid the long Las Vegas food lines and

stop in for a quick bite.

4.EXCLUSIVE UPGRADED SHUTTLE TRANSPORTATION Save your feet and escape the heat by hopping on an express shuttle! This year, JIS Exchange and JCK Las Vegas have upgraded

their shuttle service to offer exclusive, complimentary transportation between events on larger, more comfortable shuttles, holding

fifty people each. Shuttles run non-stop throughout each show day. At JIS Exchange, there is a new indoor shuttle waiting lounge complete with complimentary water service and comfortable seating to catch up with your colleagues while you wait.

5. SPECIAL HOTEL RATES AT THE TROPICANA LAS VEGAS The Tropicana Las Vegas underwent a beautiful $200 million dollar remodel and is now a DoubleTree by Hilton hotel, a member of

the Marque Rewards family, and part of the Penn National Gaming family. Featuring chic yet casually luxurious rooms, a selection of acclaimed restaurants, a beautiful spa and fitness center. and only minutes away from McCarran International Airport, this is the place

to stay to collect those coveted reward points and it won’t break the bank. Book your room today using the exclusive JIS Exchange discounted hotel rate by visiting the Hotel & Travel section on jisshow.com/exchange. These rooms are limited, so act fast!


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STAY CONNECTED EVERY DAY. The industry’s go-to source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry. — JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.


Visit JCKonline.com today and sign up for JCK News Daily so you’ll never miss a thing.


CONTENTS

JCKONLINE.COM

112

COVER

DIAMONDS IN THE BUFF

Is it hot in here, or is it just this jewelry? We’re turning up the heat with hundreds upon hundreds of carats of the coolest ice around. PHOTOGRAPHY BY GAVIN O’NEILL

FEATURES 120

THE CUTTING TRUTH

136

JCK traces a spectacular 65 carat yellow diamond’s journey from rough to polished perfection. BY ROB BATES

124

TIME ZONE To combat the sales funk, watchmakers at Baselworld 2017 turned to classic, connected, and cocktail-size designs—with a dash of green thrown in for good measure. BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

120

132

OBJECTS OF COLLECTION

132

A 90-year-old family jeweler offers time-honored advice on cultivating lifelong clients. BY KATHY HENDERSON

136

PERIOD PIECES How jewelry designers are reinterpreting timeless trends of yesteryear for today’s shoppers. BY AMY ELLIOTT

124 JUNE 2017

MODEL: PHOTOGRAPH BY GAVIN O’NEILL; HEART-SHAPE SIGNATURE STUDS IN 18K WHITE AND YELLOW GOLD, $60,000, RAHAMINOV, 800-742-8864, RAHAMINOV.COM; CRESCENT DIAMOND HOOPS IN 18K WHITE GOLD, $9,000, FOREVERMARK BY JADE TRAU, 203-388-3550, FOREVERMARK.COM; INSIDE/OUTSIDE DIAMOND HOOPS IN 14K WHITE GOLD, $5,375, SOFER JEWELRY, 212-575-0213, SOFERJEWELRY.COM; QUEEN OF DIAMOND HOOP EARRINGS IN PLATINUM, $43,600, ROBERT PROCOP, 310-276-6041, ROBERTPROCOP.COM; DIAMOND EARRINGS IN 14K WHITE GOLD, $3,500, ASHI DIAMONDS, 212-319-8291, ASHIDIAMONDS.COM. PERIOD PIECES: PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMES WOJCIK; RED CARPET 18K HONEY GOLD BRACELET WITH 18.93 CTS. T.W. COSTA SMERALDA EMERALDS AND PASSION RUBY AND 7.72 CTS. T.W. VANILLA DIAMONDS; $55,000; LE VIAN, 877-2-LEVIAN, LEVIAN.COM; DIAMOND: DIGITAL JEWELRY PHOTOGRAPHY

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CONTENTS

158

JCKONLINE.COM

FEATURES 142

STOCK AND AWE When the market rises, so do jewelers’ sales tickets. And that’s no bull! BY WHITNEY SIELAFF

146

FOR THE RECORD

SHOW & SELL

146

142

Get ready for a week of nonstop buying, learning, and networking. It’s JCK Las Vegas time once again!

Digging into jewelry history for the biggest, most expensive, and most shocking stats. BY MARTHA C. WHITE

150

RETAIL, DISRUPTED Part two of our two-part series exploring shifting consumer habits—and how jewelers must react in order to survive and thrive in the next decade…and beyond. BY EMILI VESILIND

154

OFFICE POLITICS Small businesses—including some jewelry retailers—aren’t afraid to share their political perspectives.

JCK LAS VEGAS SPECIAL

154 JUNE 2017

150

158

THE DAILY SHOW Our guide to all the events, talks, and trends you won’t want to miss at the seven-day LUXURY and JCK Las Vegas shows. BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

(THIS PAGE) MINER: GRAEME WILLIAMS/GALLO/GETTY; WOMEN: JELENA JOJIC TOMIC/STOCKSY; PRÉCIEUSES LOSANGE LARGE CUFFS IN SILVER FINISH WITH CZ AND METALLIC ELECTRIC BLUE AND PETROL LEATHER AND GOLD FINISH WITH CZ AND NAVY BLUE WATERSNAKE AND OCHER LEATHER, $195 EACH, LES GEORGETTES, 917-375-9050, LESGEORGETTES.COM; ACTIVIST DONKEY IN 14K WHITE GOLD WITH DIAMOND STARS ON 16-INCH CHAIN, $1,158, ALEX WOO, 877-WOO-ICON, ALEXWOO.COM. (P. 26) SENSO, ROCK CANDY, AND STARDUST STARLET BANGLES, $3,195–$25,000, IPPOLITA, 877-865-5500, IPPOLITA.COM; OPERA MUSICAL WATCH WITH TRIPLE-AXIS TOURBILLON AND MECHANICAL MUSIC BOX IN 47 MM BLACK PVD TITANIUM CASE, $270,000, JACOB & CO., 212-719-5887, JACOBANDCO.COM

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CONTENTS

30

JCKONLINE.COM

102 89 DEPARTMENTS

94

JEWEL BOX 5 things rocking the industry

36 38 40 42 48 64 67 72 76

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS FROM THE PUBLISHER CONTRIBUTORS JCKONLINE SOCIAL DIARY NEWS GEMS

172

The ’17 AGS Conclave GEM PRICING REPORT

THE CALENDAR May 29–July 16, 2017

89

92 94

SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER Jaymark Jewelers’ James Matero and Katie Szirmay RETAIL THERAPY Tips for posting to social media at trade shows STORE WE ADORE Metalmark in Denver

97 THE LOOK 98 RED CARPET 102 DESIGNER SHOWCASE Erica Courtney on the mine-to-market journey 108 JCK ASKS... Hisano Shepherd

167 168 170 172 175

THE VAULT GOLD COLORED STONES DIAMONDS

SHOW BIZ Inside the AGTA GemFair at JCK Las Vegas

177 TOOL TIME The best smartphone cameras. Plus: Withings’ new wearable.

212 THE WAY WE WORE Liz Taylor and Bulgari: a match made in heaven! JUNE 2017

MATERO & SZIRMAY: PHOTOGRAPH BY BEN RITTER; LEPPERT & LARKINS: PHOTOGRAPH BY REBECCA STUMPF

34


DI A M A J E W E LRY.CO M | CONTAC T C USTOM ERSE RV IC E@DI A M A JE W ELRY.COM FOR AN APP OI NTMENT AT J C K


Cover Look

32

Red Carpet rose, white, and yellow 18k gold earrings with diamonds; $41,197; Le Vian; 877-2-LEVIAN; levian.com

JCKONLINE.COM

Le Vian Red Carpet ring in 14k yellow gold with Chocolate and Vanilla diamonds; $15,397

DIAMoND Fever

From rose cuts to heart shapes to ovals, from tennis bracelets to chain links to hoops—when you’ve got diamonds this gorgeous, do you really need anything else in your wardrobe?

Diamond cuff in 18k rose gold; $105,030; Siera Jewelry; 213-623-6370; sierajewelry.com

SHoW oFF! Diamond gardenia brooch in platinum; $63,000; Oscar Heyman; 212-593-0400; oscarheyman.com

If you’re looking for diamonds, JCK Las Vegas has everything you could ever hope for—and more. Our day-by-day guide will help you find your way to the best exhibitors and events at Mandalay Bay.

Flower brooch in 18k white gold with diamonds; $39,200; Jye’s International Inc.; 415-621-8880; jyescorp.com

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GAVIN O’NEILL Hair: LOUIS ANGELO/JUDY CASEY Makeup: BOBBY BUJISIC/JUDY CASEY; Stylist: NADIA RATH/FACTORY DOWNTOWN Manicurist: RACHEL SHIM USING DERMELECT ‘ME’ IN COAT D’AMOUR/ ARTISTS BY TIMOTHY PRIANO; Model: ZHENYA KATAVA/WOMEN MANAGEMENT

JUNE 2017

Huggie earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds; $1,070; Gabriel & Co.; cs@gabrielny.com; gabrielny.com


ASSAEL.COM

MAGNIFICENT is

BEYOND RARE

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34

JUNE 2017

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box 

SHOWS A new date pattern isn’t the only thing different about this year’s JCK Las Vegas. The show, which opens June 5, a few days later than usual due to Shavuot, boasts several new neighborhoods, and the annual Rocks the Beach concert is now a Rocks the Bowl night. What remains the same is the show’s reputation for easy trendspotting. If you’re #JCKBound, keep your eyes peeled for heart-shape designs, geometric cuts, lapis-and-turquoise combos, and—say it with us—jewels in shades of Pantone’s Greenery. Turn to page 158 for a day-by-day guide to JCK’s best attractions.

Earrings with blue and aqua malachite chrysocolla, opals, and white diamonds in 18k gold; $4,200; GuitaM; 917-4966072; guitam.com

FASHION

In April, after 27 years, Jenna Lyons, J. Crew’s high-profile president and creative director, stepped down from her dual role. Lyons is widely credited with transforming a sleepy prep-school brand into a vibrant “it” fashion label. The influential Lyons look—heavy on acid-bright hues and high-low contrasts—also influenced jewelry design, nudging the entire industry into bolder, more creative territory. JUNE 2017

JCKONLINE.COM

LYONS: PHOTO IMAGE PRESS/NEWSCOM

2


35

3

DESIGNERS Singer/CFDA icon/fashionista Rihanna already has an apparel, footwear, and accessories line (Fenty Puma by Rihanna); it was only a matter of time before she moved into jewelry. Not surprisingly, she turned to one of her red-carpet faves to do it: Rihanna Chopard debuted in April as a nine-piece capsule collection of cube-filled geometric styles in the brand’s Fairmined rose gold with ceramic accents in Jungle Green (Rihanna picked the trendy shade). Fittingly, there’s also haute joaillerie, which RiRi previewed on the Grammys red carpet in February. Next, may we suggest Rihanna Jacquie Aiche body chains?

4

AUCTIONS

In April, Sotheby’s sold the Pink Star diamond for $71.2 million, making it the world’s most valuable jewel. At press time, the auctioneer’s Geneva arm was poised for a May 16 sale at which “the world’s most valuable earrings” would be offered. The mismatched, pear-shape colored diamonds—named after the twin Greek deities—are the Apollo Blue, a 14.54 ct. fancy vivid internally flawless blue, and the Artemis Pink, a 16 ct. VVS2 fancy intense pink. Despite billing them as earrings, Sotheby’s is selling them separately. Someone can buy them both, but that could cost as much as $70 million.

It’s all Greek to us: the Apollo Blue and the Artemis Pink diamonds

Cellini Moonphase in 39 mm Everose gold case; $26,750; Rolex; 800-36-ROLEX; rolex.com

5

WATCHES

For the second year in a row, Rolex topped the Global RepTrak 100 ranking of the world’s most reputable companies. The renowned Swiss timepiece maker drew kudos from survey respondents for “offering high-quality products and services,” “stand[ing] behind its products and services,” and “meet[ing] customer needs.” That has earned the brand quite a halo effect: Respondents hailed it as a “profitable company,” even though the privately owned business does not report financials. JUNE 2017


from the editor

36

W

For a green party like no other, check out Color Source at the LUXURY show in Las Vegas.

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com JUNE 2017

WE PUT THAT question to a group of JCK Las Vegas veterans in this issue’s cover story (“The Daily Show,” page 158), a day-by-day guide to the best things to see and do at the show, and, to our surprise, one JCK-related fantasy prevailed: not afternoons at the pool or complimentary mai tais, but efficiency. That makes sense against the backdrop of a volatile economy. Down in 2016, up after the election, wobbly again six months later, the retail market is a mercurial beast. We commissioned two features for this jam-packed issue that address the challenges and opportunities facing all retailers: contributor Whitney Sielaff’s “Stock and Awe” (page 142), a look at how jewelers are capitalizing on the soaring markets; and part two of senior editor Emili Vesilind’s “Retail, Disrupted” (page 150), which explores the complex forces shaping how we shop. News director Rob Bates chronicles a much more tangible effort at efficiency in “The Cutting Truth” (page 120), his fascinating glimpse into Optimum Diamonds’ tensionfraught campaign to cut the largest fancy vivid yellow diamond ever found in North America— one of dozens of records we tout in this issue. For the others, check out “For the Record” (page 146), Martha C. White’s fun- and fact-

filled jaunt into the gem trade’s superlative zone. Between “Office Politics” (page 154), Danny Smith’s measured take on whether it makes sense to share your political views with clients, and “Objects of Collection” (page 132), Kathy Henderson’s deep dive into what it takes to nurture lifelong jewelry clients, we’ve strived to cover all the bases. That includes product-laden features on everything from the latest watch styles to come out of Switzerland (“Time Zone,” page 124) to the plethora of contemporary jewels that pay homage to three still-relevant eras: Victorian, Art Deco, and the 1960s/1970s (“Period Pieces,” page 136). This being the issue that bows at JCK Las Vegas, however, we couldn’t resist placing our bets on diamonds—in all their glory. Turn to page 112, where you’ll find “Diamonds in the Buff,” one of the most seductive still-life features we’ve ever shot. Thanks to our jewelry director, Randi Molofsky, for pulling in such a chic selection of trendy and timeless pieces. As for my fantasy Vegas, yes, an efficient schedule is right up there with In-N-Out burgers delivered to my hotel room. But so is a JCK show marked by optimism, great design, and a boom in sales. And if it also happens to involve a free mai tai, all the better. JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

hat’s your fantasy Vegas?


BGK Graphics

#MyKindofJewelry 1-800-775-2744 • www.skashi.com • info@skashi.com


38

JUNE 2017

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

staff picks 2

1

18k white gold bracelet with 26.13 cts. t.w. rose-cut diamonds; $70,000; Butani; 852-23698245; butani.com

Heritage ring in 18k white gold with 1.33 cts. t.w. diamonds; $6,850; Sethi Couture; 415-863-1475; sethicouture.com

Ring in 18k white gold with 2.32 cts. t.w. diamonds; $10,534; Supreme Jewelry; 800-827-7464; supremejewelry.net

3

Sunburst earrings in 18k white gold with 1.64 cts. t.w. rose-cut and baguette diamonds; $5,600; Vivaan; 212302-3130; vivaan.us

5

4

Earrings in 18k gold with 10.5 cts. t.w. sapphires and 9.5 cts. t.w. rose- and round-cut diamonds; price on request; Sutra; 713-984-4987; sutrajewels.com

“I love how rose-cut diamonds appear artfully unfinished, but still add loads of sparkle.” —Brittany Siminitz, JCK contributing editor

JCKONLINE.COM

BED OF ROSE CUTS What JCK magazine’s BRITTANY SIMINITZ is loving this month


FROM THE PUBLISHER

W 40

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com JUNE 2017

IT’S THE MOST exciting week of the year on the jewelry industry calendar. The 2017 show promises to be no exception, with several especially noteworthy highlights. As a member of the Jewelers’ Security Alliance board, I’m particularly excited about the debut of the show’s first JSA Security Pavilion, near the Design Center. This area will feature exhibitors from many sectors of the security industry and will include presentations and educational seminars from JSA and others. I’m so proud to be affiliated with JSA, as it tirelessly addresses one of the most important aspects of our business: keeping retailers safe from harm. Speaking of new, the beautiful magazine in your hands is the third issue of the “new” JCK. It is my honor and delight to walk the floor of the JCK show this year with this beauty in my hands. If I appear to be standing a little taller and smiling a bit more broadly, you’ll know why! All of us at JCK are thrilled to attend the Jewelers for Children Facets of Hope dinner June 7 honoring our very own Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president of the Reed Jewelry Group portfolio of events. In addition to being our fearless leader, Yancy is one of the industry’s most passionate advocates: She gives

her time to numerous boards and supports all the key jewelry associations. No one is more personally involved in helping our industry respond to its challenges. Yancy will be honored along with Forevermark’s Charles Stanley, so it’s sure to be a terrific evening. Later that night, it’s the debut of JCK Rocks the Bowl, held at Las Vegas’ Brooklyn Bowl. This amazing 3,000-person bowling and entertainment facility will provide an awesome opportunity to rock out to great music, relax, network, and celebrate yet another outstanding show. April saw the 2017 edition of the American Gem Society Conclave, held this year at the Loews Hotel in the heart of Hollywood. As an ex-Angeleno, I was thrilled to go home and see so many industry friends while there. It’s always a blast to drink and dine with retailer friends like Craig and Laura Underwood from Fayetteville, Ark.–based Underwood’s Fine Jewelers. Craig and Laura are not only a heck of a lot of fun, but they also possess the kind of passion and drive that makes their store unique, beloved, and successful. Congrats to new AGS CEO Katherine Bodoh on her first Conclave! Here’s hoping you have a rewarding—and fun—week at JCK. See you on the show floor! JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; LAS VEGAS: JOHN KELLERMAN/ALAMY

elcome to JCK Las Vegas!


CONTRIBUTORS

42

JCKONLINE.COM

GAVIN O’NEILL

FREYDA TAVIN

In this issue: In addition to our two

Publications such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, Marie Claire, and Sports Illustrated; brands including L’Oréal, Olay, Avon, Coca-Cola, and Gillette.

In every issue: She introduces us to photographers who make our jewelry shine, seeking out that perfect match between the artist and subject— whether it’s silver, bold gold, or, in this case, major diamonds. Where you’ve seen her work: On award-winning covers and in feature stories for Rolling Stone, Entertainment Weekly, Women’s Health, Glamour, and ESPN the Magazine.

PETER YATES

JAMES WOJCIK

PHOTOGRAPHER

rock-star covers, he photographed the steamy, diamond-covered still life that opens our feature well (“Diamonds in the Buff,” page 112). Prepare to be dazzled. Where you’ve seen his work:

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

In every issue: He’s the graphic mind

behind the sleek new redesign of JCK magazine, from the bold new logo to the elegant covers and the sophisticated layouts. Where you’ve seen his work:

Magazines including Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire, WWD, Travel+Leisure, and Cargo; retailers including Kiehl’s, Bloomingdale’s, and Victoria’s Secret Beauty; his eponymous creative agency, Peter Yates Design.

ARI KARPEL WRITER

In this issue: He dug deep into the

work of Erica Courtney (“Can You Dig It,” page 102), luxury designer, world traveler, and underground explorer. Where you’ve seen his work:

Fast Company, The New York Times, and most recently, in the high school classroom—leading 11th graders in East L.A. through a writers’ workshop or a chapter of Always Running by Luis J. Rodriguez.

JUNE 2017

PHOTO DIRECTOR

PHOTOGRAPHER

In this issue: Inspired by the snake

styles, elaborate Deco motifs, and retro gold and turquoise combos in “Period Pieces” (page 136), he created striking era-specific compositions out of precious metal and paper. Where you’ve seen his work: Vogue, Vogue Gioiello, Teen Vogue, Vanity Fair, GQ, and Allure, Time; campaigns for such brands as Nike, Gap, Target, K-Swiss, D&G, DKNY, Vera Wang, MTV, Coach, and H.Stern.

AMY ELLIOTT WRITER

In this issue: She went back in

time to jewelry’s most in-demand eras—Victorian, Art Deco, and the 1960s/70s—for a sparkling history lesson on the perennial popularity of “Period Pieces” (page 136). Where you’ve seen her work: Martha Stewart Weddings, Lucky, and Brides magazines; online at Engagement Rings.About.com, The Bridal Council, Jetsetter, and ShermansCruise.


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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Proudly made in the USA Since 1951

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 148 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Made in the USA

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Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, VicenzaOro Italian Club 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive VICKY PANG The Bridge (companies A–O) 203-840-5960 vpang@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Diamond Plaza 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Lifestyle, The Bridge (companies P–Z), JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Bridal, Sterling Plaza, Plumb Club, Currents, First Look (companies A–M), The Gallery (Bayside), AGTA 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANA KARP First Look (companies N–Z), JCK magazine 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com

L U X U R Y & S W I S S W AT C H E V E N T S Industry Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Group Marketing Director LAUREN LARAMORE 203-840-5958 llaramore@reedjewelrygroup.com

JCK-Las Vegas Booth #B58032 Toll Free: 888-430-4344 Mailgpanther@aol.com www.gpanther.com

Special Events and Conference Manager KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies A–O) 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS LUXURY & LUXURY Privé (companies P–Z) Swiss Watch, LUXURY Watch 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager HANNAH CONNORTON 203-840-5492 hconnorton@reedjewelrygroup.com


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CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

ONLINE

“People go on Pinterest to buy.… If you’re not leveraging Pinterest into your marketing mix, you are missing out on sales.” — JCKonline reader Anna Bennett on “Are You Still Using Pinterest?”

’HOOD COMPANY +$,-BT7FHBT #PPUI# #SJEBM1BWJMMJPO

UNEEK PROPOSITION Benjamin Javaheri saved up to start his own business by working at Gap Kids, but you could say that jewels were always his destiny. (His last name literally means jewelry in Farsi!) “A beautiful diamond is like a beautiful work of art,” says the founder of Uneek Jewelry. To learn more about Javaheri, visit jckinsider.com/full-circle; and to discover Uneek’s pieces, visit the brand at JCK’s LUXURY show.

Wondering what lies within all the JCK Las Vegas neighborhoods? JCK Insider has a jewel-by-jewel guide to all the areas, from First Look (with brands like JewelMak, pictured at top) and Currents (with brands like Gabriel & Co., pictured above) to Bridal, The Bridge, and beyond. SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.


N E W O P E N I N G DAY !

O C TO B E R 8 – 1 1 , 2 01 7

S U N DAY T H R O U G H W E D N E S DAY MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER | MIAMI BEACH, FL J I S re t u r n s to M i a m i B e a c h fo r i t s f i r st s h ow i n t h e n ew l y re m o d e l e d & u p g ra d e d M i a m i B e a c h C o nve n t i o n C e n t e r . J o i n u s i n t h e n ew

ve n u e f o r t h e 2 n d l a rg e s t j ewe l r y s h ow i n t h e We s te r n H e m i s p h e re

& t h e l a rg e s t J I S eve n t o f t h e ye a r !

LE AR N MO R E AT: J ISSH OW.COM /O CTO B E R Contact JIS directly at +1 (800) 840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com

S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W


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@JCKMagazine JCKmagazine @jckmagazine @jckmagazine

INSTAGEM

FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH When it comes to jewelry bloggers, there are few as worldly—and well-traveled—as Katerina Perez. Her self-titled blog boasts expert editorial, but her Instagram (@katerina_perez) is our real addiction, showing a flair for color and composition and a knack for discovering singular, stunning designs.

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK JCK Las Vegas Luxury Privé NY Select Shows Centurion South Beach Celebrating 35 Years

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

A pair of Hemmerle earrings makes a cameo at the European Fine Art Fair in March.

A close-up view of a piece featuring Palmiero Jewellery’s trademark pavé technique.

Pretty fly! This Wallace Chan carved amethyst convertible necklace can be worn four ways.

Hidden inside this Alessio Boschi Qajar Pride ring: a tiny light to illuminate the gemstones.

Swooning over this floral Luigi Ferrara bracelet with carved rock crystal, coral, lapis, and more.

Celebrating the Year of the Rooster with a brooch by Russian brand Master Exclusive Jewellery.

WANT MORE JCK? JCK NEWS DAILY BRINGS THE TOP STORIES TO YOUR INBOX EVERY MONDAY–SATURDAY. GO TO jckonline.com/newsletters/subscribe.

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americas Gold | americas Diamonds


Social Diary

AGS CONCLAVE

1

HOLLYWOOD SIGNS

Home to the Oscars ceremony, the Dolby Theatre hosted all of Conclave’s major events, including the AGS Suppliers’ Showcase.

Members of the american Gem Society descended on los angeles april 5–8 for sun, surf, sand, and their annual conclave

2

3

Shipley Award–winning retailer Cathy Calhoun, whose Royersford, Pa., store dates back to 1951

4

Baggins’ Anil Maloo, Ben Bridge Jeweler’s Herb Bridge and his partner, Edie Hilliard (far r.), and a jewelry model

JUNE 2017

5

Composer Kai Kight entertained the attendees.

6

Underwood Jewelers’ Clayton Bromberg introduced Calhoun.

AGS board president Scott Berg, AGS CEO Katherine Bodoh, Long’s Jewelers’ Judd Rottenberg, and Ben Bridge Jeweler’s Lisa Bridge JCKONLINE.COM

COURTESY OF AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY

64


Discover Rio Tinto’s unique Chain of Custody programme for responsibly sourced diamonds at JCK Las Vegas

Meet Rio Tinto’s Select Diamantaires. This exclusive group of leading diamond companies are guaranteed a regular and consistent supply of rough diamonds originating from Rio Tinto’s diamond mines in Australia and Canada.

To inquire about setting up your own mine to market initiatives, contact Rio Tinto Diamonds or one of our leading Select Diamantaires.

B60070

B41141

B53047

B50013, B57053

PC-125

B53079

S10705

B53030

PC-660

B52047

B53017


67

the industry authority

JUNE 2017

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

News Gems Double drop diamond hoop earrings in 18k rose gold; $6,400; Forevermark by Rahaminov; 203-388-3550; forevermark.com

LEONARD: COURTESY OF AMERICAN GEM SOCIETY

Champion boxer Sugar Ray Leonard served as a keynote speaker.

T

CALIFORNIA ADVENTURE

The American Gem Society said “Hooray for Hollywood!” at its April Conclave

BY ROB BATES

HE AMERICAN GEM Society cranked up the star power for its Conclave 2017 in Los Angeles, with appearances by Jay Leno, Sugar Ray Leonard, and a slew of experts aiming to help jewelers navigate the challenging new retail landscape. The annual event was held April 5–8 at the Loews Hollywood Hotel. Leno appeared on the event’s first day, delivering an hour of rapid-fire one-liners covering everything from smart refrigerators to Donald Trump (“The Amazing Racist”). He also auctioned off tours of his car collection for charity, collecting a total of $30,000 for the Make-A-Wish Foundation. Leonard’s widely praised keynote

JCKONLINE.COM

described how he met the difficulties of a champion boxer’s life head-on. The group’s annual President’s Dinner featured members dressed up as characters from their favorite films, from Star Wars to Pulp Fiction. The rest of Conclave was, more or less, devoted to business. The organization gave the Robert M. Shipley Award, its highest honor, to former president Cathy Calhoun, owner of Calhoun Jewelers in Royersford, Pa. “I can’t believe I have nothing to say,” said Calhoun, who seemed genuinely shocked and moved by the honor. “It’s hard for me to even comprehend this.” Presenting the award, former Shipley winner Clayton


NEWS GEMS

Bromberg joked, “Shy, timid, quiet, and modest. Those words have never been used to describe our 2017 Shipley Award winner.” Breakfast keynote speaker and consultant Scott McKain said that retailers today need to create the ultimate customer experience. “Do you know Starbucks doesn’t let baristas wear cologne and perfume the days that they work?” he said. “They don’t want people saying, ‘Man, that cologne smells strong.’ They want people to say, ‘Man, that coffee smells amazing.’ They want that experience.” Bob Phibbs, aka “The Retail Doctor,” told attendees they needed to “collect stories from their customers to make a firmer connection with them”: “A guy is looking for a bracelet; that’s not a story,” he said. “But if he’s buying it for a niece, that’s a story.” In a seminar on email marketing, consultant Ben Smithee, CEO of The Smithee Group, warned that consumer communications should deliver value: “If your subject lines are just promote, promote, promote, sale, sale, sale, how blinded are we to that? I block all that.” Smithee cited Staples as a company that delivers engaging content for its consumers. Charles Stanley, president of Forevermark US, caused a bit of controversy when he declared, “Some [jewelers] contemplate selling imitations and synthetics, which are not rare. It’s undermining the DNA of jewelers. Jewelers sell precious, rare gems. Synthetics are not gems.” The event also included a touching goodbye video to the group’s former executive director Ruth Batson, who has retired after 24 years with the organization. “Thank you for all you’ve done for me and for AGS,” said her replacement, Katherine Bodoh. Next year’s Conclave will be held in Nashville, Tenn. (Additional reporting by Victoria Gomelsky)

JUNE 2017

Q&A

3 Questions for...

CECILIA GARDNER IN APRIL, CECILIA Gardner stepped down as president, CEO, and general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, the group she headed for 18 years. Here, she talks about whether the Trump administration will continue to regulate the industry, why she supports the Jewelry Industry Summit, and the role of women in the jewelry business. —RB You have been outspoken about the lack of women in the industry. Is that still a problem? I was surprised when I first joined the industry at the lack of women leaders. I cannot tell you how often during my career in the jewelry industry I found myself the only woman in the room. Not much has changed. And it should. We now have an administration in Washington, D.C., that’s less inclined to regulate. What do you think will happen to some of the supply chain initiatives that have taken place? It is hard to predict. The current administration is extremely unpredictable. However, I don’t see

a lot of energy on the part of the industry to undo what has been done. I think the industry genuinely believes the regulations to which we have been subject are good. A lot of industries try to get rid of the FTC [Federal Trade Commission] Guides. Our industry works hard to improve them. You are passionate about the Jewelry Industry Summit to promote sustainability and ethical sourcing in the industry. Why do you think it’s important? Everyone has a responsibility to the people who extract your products. When I first started working on the summit, I got a note on our Facebook page, saying, “Now we have to worry about this too?” Someone posted a [response]: “Yes, you have to worry. The person who brought this product to your countertop is your partner. If your partners are being exploited and you do nothing about it, your business will fail.” So, yes, the people who extract these products are your partners. They are in the same business as you. You have responsibility for them.

What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for April. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline. com/newsletters/subscribe.

1 2 3 4 5

Diamond District Jeweler Was Drug Front, Police Say: Cops seized a 121-pound shipment of cocaine headed for a supposed jewelry business on 47th Street. What Are the Four Most Popular Watch Brands? Rolex, Cartier, Omega, and Breitling, according to White Pine Trading. How Millennials Propose Differently and How That Helps Jewelers: JCK news director Rob Bates examines how the proposal process has become social. Has GIA Invented the Synthetic Diamond Black Box? Its new device sniffs out lab-grown diamonds as well as simulants. Diamonds Direct Acquires Two Companies: Netting Distinctive and Global Diamonds brings the retailer into four new states.

KRUGMAN: ARISTIDIS VAFEIADAKIS/ZUMA

68

“The retail trade lost more jobs in the past two months than coal mining lost in the past 20 years.” —Nobel Prize–winning economist Paul Krugman, April 9 on Twitter

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NEWS GEMS

70

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

The Eppie Sneed with polished PVD gold bracelet and malachite dial; $950; Gomelsky by Shinola; 888-3042534; shinola.com

which has stores in Indianapolis and St. Louis, and sister company Global Diamonds, with stores in Jacksonville, Fla., and Salt Lake City. This brings the chain’s total to 14 stores.

COMINGS AND GOINGS

previously worked for Aurafin, Kim International, and Belair Watches. Mark Mazzarese has been appointed

CEO of Kansas City, Mo.–based watch brand Niall. He replaces Michael Wilson, who becomes chief technology officer. Mazzarese was previously president and owner of Mazzarese Jewelry, a retailer in Leawood, Kan. Miner Gem Diamonds has named Harry Kenyon-Slaney its chairman and

Al Minor

independent nonexecutive director. He succeeds Roger Davis. KenyonSlaney is currently a senior adviser to McKinsey & Co. and was once CEO of Rio Tinto’s diamond division.

New York City–based Ashi Diamonds has appointed Al Minor

OPENING Detroit-based watch and accessories brand Shinola has opened its second New York City location, in Brooklyn’s Dumbo neighborhood. The brand already has a flagship store in Manhattan’s Tribeca.

COMPANIES Signet Jewelers has expanded its Barberton, Ohio, non-merchandise fulfillment center by 65 percent, adding 56,000 square feet— for a total of 134,000 square feet—to the facility.

world’s largest provider of precious metals services, the company says. Judith Ripka Ltd. has signed a new license agreement that lets Pranda North America Inc. manufacture its fine jewelry line. Pranda takes over from KGK. Ripka owner Xcel Brands Inc. will handle product design, merchandising, and marketing.

seeing North America, Latin America, and the Caribbean. She takes over from Vincent Brun.

Harry Kenyon-Slaney

REMEMBERED Alan I. Kadet, a World War II veteran who became chairman of Rogers & Hollands Jewelers and helped build it into an 80-store chain, died April 3. He was 91. Libby Brown

The Atlanta Jewelry Show has promoted Libby Brown from assistant executive director to executive director. She succeeds Carol Young, who had held that position for 20 years.

Heraeus Precious Metals has acquired

JUNE 2017

Leslie Kobrin is the new president of Vacheron Constantin Americas, over-

R2Net, owner of jewelry e-tailer James Allen, has received a $140 million equity investment from Francisco Partners.

On Feb. 12, Pawn America, a chain of nearly two dozen pawnshops, filed for Chapter 11 protection in U.S. Bankruptcy Court in Minnesota. The company intends to remain in business.

all of Swiss precious metals processor Argor-Heraeus. It previously had a 33 percent stake in the company. The acquisition will turn Heraeus into the

its national director of sales. He previously worked for Endless Jewelry, Pandora, and I.B. Goodman.

Diamonds Direct’s Itay Berger Diamonds Direct has acquired two companies—Distinctive Diamonds,

The New York City–based Royal Chain Group has hired Tim O’Neal as its newest sales representative. He

Alan I. Kadet JCKONLINE.COM


CREATE A NEW SHOPPING EXPERIENCE W i n n e r o f J C K L a s V e g a s T h i n k Ta n k 2 0 1 6

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NEWS GEMS

72

Gem PricinG

ON THE RISE: LESS CONVENTIONAL (AND LESS COSTLY) GEMSTONES THE U.S. GEM trade saw an uptick in demand during late March that carried into April. But the market remains focused on two tiers as sales continue to be fixed at the high and the low ends with not much occurring in the mid-tier retail price points ($2,500–$6,500). In the broader market, there has been a significant shift. Dealers are seeing rising demand for beryl, garnet, spinel, tanzanite, tourmaline, and zircon, while demand for sapphire and ruby has softened. The retail market is embracing a range of colored stones in both pastel and richer tones. These varieties also offer an excellent look attainable at a more affordable price range for many who find themselves priced out of the corundum market.

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant

FINE

Alexandrite

G

$7,735

$6,970

$6,240

$5,280

H

$6,480

$6,150

$5,820

$5,000

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,600

$5,530

$5,270

$4,720

J

$5,120

$4,720

$4,560

$4,320

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round

Rubellite Tourmaline

G

$3,570

$3,200

$2,700

$2,340

H

$3,200

$3,000

$2,600

$2,270

I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

Tsavorite Garnet

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

1 to under 3 cts.

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant

Mint Garnet

G

$14,300

$12,400

$10,600

$8,700

H

$12,400

$10,900

$9,400

$8,580

1 to under 3 cts.

$250–$375

$450–$650

3 to under 5 cts.

$400–$500

$600–$775

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$10,000

$8,820

$8,520

$7,280

J

$8,000

$7,390

$7,000

$6,390

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut

Pink Sapphire

G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

$6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

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VICENZAORO JANUARY GJX TUCSON PREMIÈREVISION PARIS IJS HONG KONG BASELWORLD JCK LAS VEGAS I 03. - 06.06. I German Section B22129 VICENZAORO SEPTEMBER JGF HONG KONG Schofer Germany - THE CHAIN COMPANY GmbH + Co. KG · Freiburger Str. 3 · 75179 Pforzheim · Germany · Tel: +49 (0)7231 - 9103 -0 · info@schofer.com · www.schofer.com


ª

STA ND OUT. R IS E AB OVE . Become a credentialed AGS Member. Our nonprofit Society is the only one that grants professional credentials—earned by those who share our vision of consumer protection, education and excellence. So you, as a member, can convey the qualities that are most important to your clients: ethics, integrity and knowledge.

Professional Credentials Offered: Certified Gemologist™, Certified Gemologist Appraiser, Registered Jeweler, and Registered Supplier.

Apply for membership today! Visit us at JCK Booth L103 or LUX500, contact us at membership@ags.org, or call 866.805.6500.


Can’t Miss Special Events

JCK SHOW & TELL S O M E O F T H E MO ST EX C I T I NG EV E NTS O N T H E L I N E U P A R E I N N EW LO CAT I O NS. DO N’T L ET T H E F EA R O F T H E U NK NOW N STO P YO U F RO M M I S S I NG O U T.

JCK Talks

JCK Think Tank

Tradewinds Meeting

The Showcase Stage Wednesday, June 7 at 1pm

Rooms, Pool Level

Sunday, June 4 - Monday, June 5 from 8:30am -6:00pm

Discover solutions for your Store at JCK Talks! JCK Talks arms retailers with the tools, insights and information necessary to succeed in the current retail climate. Refreshed content for 2017 will kick off on Sunday, June 4, one day before the JCK Las Vegas show floor opens and will continue on Monday, June 5 with a spotlight on our industry partners during JCK Talks - Afternoon with the Associations.

JCK Think Tank, (formerly Shark Tank at JCK), allows technology vendors to pitch an innovative product or service to a live audience. Six finalists will be selected to showcase their technology in a live, seven minute presentation to a panel of industry judges amongst a room of peers. Then, watch as the audience votes live to select the 2017 JCK Think Tank winner.

JCK Rocks the Bowl Brooklyn Bowl, Las Vegas Wednesday, June 7 from 8:00 pm to 11:00 pm JCK Las Vegas is headed to the hottest venue on The Strip – The Brooklyn Bowl! Just a short drive from Mandalay Bay Resort, join us as we rock out to great music, relax, and network after an amazing week at JCK. The event is open to all JCK, LUXURY, and JIS Exchange badge holders.* *Ticket required for admittance. One ticket per badge. Tickets available on the show floor at information counters. 21+ event.

The Showcase JCK Show Floor Monday, June 5 Thursday, June 8 Kick-off your week (Monday, June 5 – Thursday, June 8) on the show floor at the new Showcase Stage featuring morning vendor presentations followed by afternoon retailer panels and trend downloads from industry experts, editors, bloggers and stylists.


 SHORELINES, LEVEL 2 CURRENTS

The extensive floor plan at JCK Las Vegas requires you to plan out your days—so come prepared! The show floor groups exhibitors together into similar product

PRESTIGE

categories making it easy to shop. Plan your day around the neighborhoods you

LUXURY WATCH

LUXURY

want to visit, familiarize yourself with navigation maps, and use online planning

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JCK Rocks the Bowl*

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eyecandy


76

JUNE 2017

the industry authority

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR U.S. • MAY 29–JUNE 1 LAS VEGAS GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Las Vegas glda.com

• JUNE 2–3

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Las Vegas iwjg.com

June Birthstone

2–4

BEAD RENAISSANCE WHOLE BEAD SHOW

See you on the Strip! Market Week kicks off June 2 in Las Vegas.

Las Vegas wholebead.com

GEM FAIRE

PEARL Ring with 14 mm–15 mm South Sea pearl, 0.18 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 0.88 ct. t.w. rubies in 18k white gold; $6,000; Yoko London; 212-819-9400; yokolondon.com

Tulsa, Okla. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW intergem.com

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2–6

COUTURE Las Vegas thecoutureshow.com

SEE YOU THERE!

Shop for gems in scenic Salt Lake City June 9–11.

San Mateo, Calif.

3–4

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3–5

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Las Vegas

Gatlinburg, Tenn.

luxury.jckonline.com

nortonshows.com

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4–8

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beadandbutton show.com

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Salt Lake City

lasvegas.jckonline.com

gemfaire.com

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JCK LAS VEGAS

Las Vegas

BEAD & BUTTON SHOW Milwaukee

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Denver intergem.com

LUXURY

JUNE 2–8

SWISS WATCH JUNE 4–6

JCK LAS VEGAS JUNE 5–8

JIS EXCHANGE JUNE 5–8


Italian Passion

Made With Love DISCOVER ITALIAN JEWELLERY AT JCK 2017


2 — The Event

VICENZAORO at JCK

VICENZAORO Italian Passion. Made with Love VICENZAORO — one of the most prestigious jewellery show in the world, organized by Italian Exhibition Group — promotes Italian jewellery worldwide. VICENZAORO ITALIAN PASSION. MADE WITH LOVE is one of

the most stimulating area of the JCK Show in Las Vegas, the most important gold and jewellery trade show for the United States and the rest of the Americas. VICENZAORO presents a high-end selection of Italian jewellery brands. The Italian brands will present their latest collections with the new trends in jewellery design, showing unique products and high level of manufacturing knowledge to the American buyers. The Italian Pavilion is a strategic position inside the JCK Show: ‘VICENZAORO Italian Passion. Made with Love’ is located at Shorelines 2 in front of Prestige and close to the Plumb Club exhibition area. VICENZAORO presents all the main manufacturing districts in Italy, in a context of Italian style and elegance. THE FORMAT VICENZAORO is exported all over the world, to

the most important International trade shows for the industry. In the interview, Corrado Facco, Managing Director of Italian Exhibition Group Spa, tells us which are the opportunities for the Italian companies. «As a matter of fact, this country is one of the main destinations for Italian jewellery exports, worth 625 million Euros in the USA, that grew by 9.6% in 2016 compared to 2015 (source: Istat), despite 2016

TRENDVISION Jewellery + Forecasting

being a particularly complicated year for the gold and jewellery industry worldwide. JCK, the main gold and jewellery trade show for the United States and the rest of the Americas, represents a good opportunity for the Italian brands to showcase their manufacturing knowledge to a very interested audience and International professional buyers. Here the Italian exhibitors will bring their latest collections, present their outstanding features and high-end products in terms of innovation, creativity, design, craftsmanship, underlining their roles as trendsetters in this business worldwide. ‘VICENZAORO Italian Passion. Made with Love’ at JCK is thus a very relevant format, not only for the prestigious and target context, but also and overall because it has opened — for 12 years now — the doors to Italian companies of the American market, now more than ever very strategic in the luxury and jewellery world. This thanks to the support of Italian Exhibition Group, the company generated by a merger between Rimini Fiera and Fiera di Vicenza, leader in Italy and one of the main players in Europe, and tank to the International knowhow and expertise of VICENZAORO. A brand that confirms its leadership in promoting and adding value to the Italian Jewellery Beauty and Well Done, playing the role of Italian jewellery Ambassador in the world». [A.P.]

TRENDVISION Jewellery + Forecasting is VICENZAORO’s independent trend forecasting research observatory specialized in the jewelry, watch, diamond and luxury sectors. The TRENDVISION area will be part of the Italian Pavilion ‘VICENZAORO Italian Passion. Made with Love’. Each year, through TRENDVISION Jewellery + Forecasting, trends in international jewelry, diamonds and watchmaking are independently discovered and analyzed, using research materials that include consumer profiles and product directions, also featured in the reference publication: the TRENDBOOK 2018+. For more information: www.trendvisionforecasting.com


The Event — 3

Italian Passion. Made With Love

Made in Italy Jewellery: Destination Usa Made in Italy, thanks to the elegance, creativity and originality of Italian jewellery, make it one of the best choices for the United States and the US represents its prime market. It is characterized by an age-old tradition of quality craftsmanship, technical, stylistic and material ability and design innovation. WHY IS MADE IN ITALY JEWELLERY SO POPULAR ON THE

Italian best traditions, it is extremely likely that these young consumers will buy more jewellery from the same company.

jewellery as an investment but rather because they love fashion and are very aware of their look. Therefore, they adore creations by those Italian jewelers who produce original and unique items with a considerable flair for fashion. Millennials, born between 1979 and 1998 – a generation where affluent women with a great inclination for buying luxury goods predominate Ñ particularly choose new Italian designers when they know how to make a highly original product that stands out from other accessories. Furthermore, since the number of marriages in the USA is increasing, there is an enormous fondness for Made in Italy jewellery which is tailor-made rather than standardized, in other words, able to meet the needs of those young couples on a higher income. When the Italian offer has an innovative and convincing design with high quality raw materials and impeccable craftsmanship, in line with

THE US MARKET has always been one of the main enthusiastic for Italian jewellery. Especially since the big American spenders of today, now in total recovery, are once more a privileged consumer bracket for Italian enterprises, whose jewellery is still so appealing to their eyes. Added to this are the new Millennial Generation consumers who are proving to be sensitive to the allure of jewellery even though they love a different approach in the way they choose what and how to buy. A study by the Jewelry Industry Research Institute has pinpointed who is currently the American jewellery purchaser. Young consumers (particularly women, who are becoming increasingly more independent) are buying a growing amount of jewellery; consumers are on the look-out for original and trendy creations. [A.P.]

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AMERICAN MARKET? The Americans do not usually buy


4 — Directory

VICENZAORO at JCK

A

B

ALESSI DOMENICO SPA Mrs. Roberta Gastelli Via dei Tulipani, 3/5 Bassano del Grappa (Vi) - Italy +39 0424 566200 +39 0424 566300 info@alessidomenico.net alessidomenico.gold

BARBERO & RICCI SRL Mr. Cristiano Ricci Via F.lli Di Dio, 19/23 Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 943444 +39 0131 953311 info@barbero-ricci.com barbaro-ricci.com

ALEX ORO Mr. Paolo Cerofolini via Pastore, 28 Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 401487 paolo@cerojiconsulting.it alexoro.it

BIANCASPINA SRL Mr. Paolo Bracciali Via Galileo Ferraris, 53 Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 1832724 +39 0575 1781759 sales@biancaspina.it ovalo.it

DASAN GROUP Mr. David Chabbot 54 West 39th Street 10018 New York NY - USA +1 212 2445410 dchabbott@dasaninc.com

BLU ORO S.R.L. Mr. Carlo Andrea D’Itria Via L. di Toscana, 10 Monte San Savino (AR) - Italy +39 0575 848555 +39 0575 848208 carlo@bluoro.it bluoro.it

DEL PIA Ms. Elisa Caneschi Via Leopoldo di Toscana, 7 Monte San Savino (AR) - Italy +39 0575 848086-87 +39 0575 848089 sales@delpiaefratelli.it delpiaefratelli.it

AMLÈ Ms. Maria Angelucci Corso Aldo Moro, Galleria de Domenico S.Maria Capua Vetere (CE) - Italy +39 0823 798939 +39 0823 798939 info@amle.it amle.it ANTICOA Mr. Aldo Antico Via del Pellegrino, 66 00186 Roma - Italy +39 06 68309111 +39 06 68309111 info@anticoa.com anticoa.com ANTONIO MILLAN GORDILLO S.L. Mr. Daniel Sanz Pol.Ind. Tecnocordoba, c/Varsovia, 5 Cordoba - Spain +34 957 326407 export@amgordillo.com amgordillo.com ASOLO GOLD SPA Mr. Nicola Rinaldi Via delle Industrie, 9 S. Zenone degli Ezzelini (TV) - Italy +39 0423 968988 +39 0423 968577 export@asologold.com asologold.com

C CHRYSOS SPA Mr. Demis Pelosin Via Albertoni, 10 Romano d’Ezzelino (VI) - Italy +39 0423 910233 +39 0423 910323 sales@chrysos.com chrysos.com CI-ZETA GIOIELLI Mr. Oscar Narratone Via XXIX Aprile 11 Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 953668 info@cizetagioielli.it COLLARO Mrs. Silvia Romano Centro Orafo Il Tarì Marcianise (CE) - Italy +39 0823 513613 +39 0823 513613 collarosrls@gmail.com collarojewels.com

COLPO & ZILIO Mr. Filippo Bottazzi/Mr. Mirko Colpo Via Gorizia, 21 Torri di Quartesolo (VI) - Italy +39 0444 380160 +39 0444 553308 fibottazzi@gmail.com mcolpo@colpo-zilio.com colpo-zilio.com D

DI BI Mr. Giuseppe Ferlito Via Grande, 89 Cassola (VI) - Italy +39 0424 534099 +39 0424 533396 info@dibispa.com dibispa.com DIBI GOLD SRL Mr. Danilo Luconi Via Don L. Sturzo, 134 Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 21238 +39 0575 370075 dibigold@aruba.it


Directory — 5

Italian Passion. Made With Love

E EFFEPI MOUNTINGS Mr. Matteo Visconti Via L. Ariosto, 10 Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 942138 +39 0131 947101 info@effepigioielli.com effepigioielli.com F F.I.OR. SPA Mr. Antonio Calvani Via XXV Aprile Laterina (AR) - Italy +39 0575 898341 +39 0575 898798 info@fior.it fior.it FALCINELLI ITALY SRL Mr. Giulio Porti Via G.Konz, 47 Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 984194 +39 0575 984428 info@falcinelliitaly.it falcinelliitaly.it FANI GIOIELLI Mr. Bernardo Bongini Via Charta 77, 5 Scandicci (FI) - Italy +39 055 751505 +39 055 7357983 info@fanigioielli.it fanigioielli.it FERRARIFIRENZE Mrs. Raffaella Podetti Via Siena, 37/17 Firenze - Italy + 39 055 756237 + 39 055 756237 info@ferrarifirenze.it ferrarifirenze.it FIDIA SRL Mr. Simone Innocenti Via Bassa, 33H/G Scandicci (FI) - Italy + 39 055 755215 + 39 055 755321 simone@fidiagioielli.it fidiagioielli.it

FILK SPA Mrs. Silvia Cremasco Via dell’Industria, 8 Mussolente (VI) - Italy +39 0424 579411 +39 0424 579400 info@filk.it filk.it

GIOIELLIAMO Mr. Filippo Scortecci Via Arturo Chiari, 64 Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 959655 +39 0575 959264 info@gioielliamo.it gioielliamo.it

FLORIANI Mr. Marco Floriani Via Rosselli, 2 Lippo-Calderara (BO) - Italy +39 051 726115 +39 051 726304 marco.floriani@floriani-astucci.it floriani-astucci.it

GIORGIO VISCONTI Via C. Camurati, 47 Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 955988 +39 0131 941583 Giorgio Visconti USA: +1 561 289 7001 info@giorgiovisconti.it giorgiovisconti.it

FRATELLI BOVO Mr. Silvio Bertoncini Via Postale Vecchia, 120/A Trissino (VI) - Italy +39 0445 962441 +39 0445 490269 commerciale@fratellibovo.com fratellibovo.com FRATELLI CHINI SRL Mr. Egidio Chini Strada Statale 69, Km 50 Laterina (AR) - Italy +39 0575 8871 +39 0575 887122 amministrazione@chini.it chini.it

GOLD ART Mr. Michele Riccio Via G. Konz, 45 Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 353877 +39 0575 371129 export03@goldart-348ar.it goldart-348ar.it GOLDEN CLEF INTERNATIONAL SPA Mr. Federico Terenzoni Via P. Gobetti, 78 Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 354391 +39 0575 295613 federico@goldenclef.it

G

H

GENERAL PREZIOSI Mr. Pier Luigi Cerofolini Via del Gavardello, 51-53 Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 984722 +39 0575 980577 pierluigi@generalpreziosi.com generalpreziosi.com

HASBANI GIOIELLI Mr. Joseph Hasbani Via Albricci, 3 Milano - Italy +39 02 86453993 +39 02 86454076 hasbani@hasbani.it hasbani.it

GIMET Mrs. Alessandra Paglicci Strada A, 11 San Zeno (AR) - Italy +39 0575 91441 +39 0575 914425 alessandra@gimet.it gimet.it


6 — Directory

VICENZAORO at JCK

I

K

I BY IANNELLI Via Trieste, 18 Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 924617 info@ibyiannelli.it ibyiannelli.it

KARIZIA SPA Mr. Luigi Marostica Via Perosi,18/20 Cassola (VI) - Italy +39 0424 511442 +39 0424 511286 luigi@karizia.it karizia.it

IL SOLE GIOIELLI SRL Mr. Fausto Speciale Via Martiri di Lero, 9/A Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 927262 +39 0131 947068 info@ilsolegioielli.it ilsolegioielli.it IMMA SRL Mrs. Barbara Grassano Via Vittorio Veneto, 22 Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 943082 +39 0131 946825 immaval@tin.it ITALGOLD Mr. Gian Pietro Amisano Circ.Ovest Coinor Lotto 14BA Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 924797 +39 0131 946737 italgold@italgold.it italgold.it J JESSICA JEWELS via Maestri del Lavoro, 24 Ponticino (AR) - Italy +39 0575 898055 +39 0575 898056 info@jessica-spa.com jessica-spa.com

KRIA GIOIELLI SRL Via Fieno, 1 Milano - Italy +39 02 867569/867512 +39 02 72000320 kriagioielli@gmail.com kriagioielli.it L

LEONCINI ASTUCCI SRL Mrs. Katia Maretti Via Gandhi, 15 Forlì - Italy +39 0543 84455 +39 0543 84404 info@leonciniastucci.com leonciniastucci.com LINEA ITALIA SRL Mr. Tranquillo Loison S.S. Pasubio, 159 Motta di Costabissara(VI) - Italy +39 0444 557222 info@lineaitalia.com lineaitalia.com M

L’ARTIGIANO FACTORY SRL Mr. Paolo Cerofolini Via Calamandrei, 254A24 Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 26421 paolo@cerojiconsulting.it alexoro.it

MATTIA MAZZA Mr. Tommaso Mazza Via Marconi, 70 Torre del Greco (NA) - Italy +39 081 8814866 +39 081 8497544 info@mattiamazza.it mattiamazza.it

LAC SPA Mr. Giancarlo Guidolin Via Palazzo Storto, 16 Romano d’Ezzelino (VI) - Italy +39 0424 510348 +39 0424 510350 lac@lacspa.it lacspa.it

MICHELETTO SRL Mr. Mirco Carraro Via C. Balbo, 34 Milano - Italy +39 02 58314152 +39 02 58314076 info@micheletto.com micheletto.com

LANCASTER ITALIA / STRUMENTO MARINO Mr. Vincenzo Sardone Via Roberto Da Bari, 120 Bis Bari - Italy +39 080 5245541 +39 080 5721081 vincenzo@gpalancaster.com lancasteritalia.com www.strumentomarino.com

MIORO Mr. Massimo Ceresa Via Flavio Baracchini, 2 Milano - Italy +39 02 36632425 info@mioroitaly.it

LEO PIZZO SPA Mr. Tancredi Pizzo Mrs. Maria Angela Negri Circ.Ovest Coinor Lotto 14BA Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 955102 +39 0131 946688 tancredi.pizzo@leopizzo.com negri@leopizzo.com leopizzo.com

MISIS SRL Mr. Alberto Piaserico Via dell’Edilizia, 58 Vicenza - Italy +39 0444 961334 alberto@misis.it misis.it


Directory — 7

Italian Passion. Made With Love

MULTIFORM Mr. Roberto Rossi Loc.tà Castelnuovo, 62 Subbiano (AR) - Italy + 39 0575 421997 + 39 0575 489088 info@multiformweb.it multiformweb.it N NERI ROMUALDO Mr. Maurizio Filippi Via del Gavardello, 59/A Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 984307 +39 0575 984390 info@neriromualdo.it neriromualdo.it NEW ANDER SRL Ms. Tiziana Ciniltani VIA M. Baiardi, 8 Valenza (AL) - Italy +39 0131 950808 newander@ander1962.com newander1962.com

ORGREEN c/Platino, 8 Cordoba - Spain +34 957 449094 +34 957 432830 orgreen@orgreen.com orgreen.com ORO TREND SRL Mr. Matteo Ferraris Circ.Ovest Zona D2 Lotto 5D Valenza (AL) - Italy + 39 0131 952579 + 39 0131 946240 matteo@oro-trend.com oro-trend.com OROZEN SRL Mr. Zen Onorio Via Col Roigo, 36 Romano D’Ezzelino (VI) - Italy +39 0424 34691 +39 0424 36432 info@orozen.it orozen.it P

NUOVI GIOIELLI SRL Mrs. Cristina Delucca Via A. Volta, 1 Mussolente (VI) - Italy +39 0424 577018 +39 0424 577037 cristina.delucca@nuovigioielli.com nuovigioielli.com

PATROS Mr. Leonardo Bottene Via Treviso, 36 Cavazzale (VI) - Italy +39 0444 1456463 info@patrosgioielli.com patrosgioielli.com

NOVECENTONOVANTANOVE Mr. Enzo Lazzerini Via R. Leoncavallo, 15/3 Firenze - Italy +39 055 331077 +39 055 331077 info@novecentonovantanove.com novecentonovantanove.com

R

O OMEGA ART SRL Località Ponte alla Piera, 58 Anghiari (AR) - Italy +39 0575 723332 +39 0575 723332 omegaart@omegaart.it omegaartjewels.it

RAJOLA Viale dei Pini, 3 Torre del Greco (NA) - Italy +39 081 8493566 +39 081 8492078 RAJOLA INC. Mrs. Carla Romano 13499 Biscayne Blvd TS 1 33181 Miami, Fl - USA rajola.it usa@rajola.it RE SOLE SRL Mr. Paolo Passuello Via Vecchia Ferriera (VI) - Italy +39 0444 545454 +39 0444 2394491 info@resole.biz

RICCARDO ORSATO SRL Mr. Riccardo Orsato Via Alcide de Gasperi, 18 Noale (VE) - Italy +39 041 5802398 +39 041 8872001 info@orsato.it gloriadelor.com RICHLINE ITALY Mrs. Fedora Artuso San Zeno 2/A Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 959561 +39 0575 959331 sales@richline.it richline.it RPM SRL Mr. Riccardo Pastelli Via Circonvallazione Ovest Lotto 2G Valenza - Italy +39 0131 945931 +39 0131 920428 rpm@rpmverette.it rpmverette.com S S.A.L.P. / SUCESORES SIMON FRANCO S.A. Mr. Andrea Aldinucci Via Poggiobagnoli, 22 Pergine Valdarno (AR) - Italy +39 0575 896356 +39 0575 896324 salp@salpgold.com salpgold.com S.I.L.O. SPA Mr. Enrico Lovari Via Vecchia Aretina, 2/R Castiglion Fibocchi (AR) - Italy +39 0575 4391 +39 0575 439280 e.lovari@silojewelry.it silojewelry.it SANALITRO GIOIELLI Mr. Massimo Sanalitro Via Sangallo, 9 Milano - Italy +39 02 717589 +39 02 76114329 sanalitro@sanalitro.com sanalitro.com


Contacts

Italian Exhibition Group Spa Via Emilia, n. 155 47921 Rimini (RN), Italy www.iegexpo.it

Stefania Fin Exhibition Manager Abroad Events mob. +39 349 1544657 stefania.fin@iegexpo.it

Patrizia Rovaris Head of International Media & Corporate Communication mob. +39 348 1536114 patrizia.rovaris@iegexpo.it

Ada Tessaro TRENDVISION Jewellery + Forecasting Project Coordinator mob. +39 348 1197322 info@trendvisionforecasting.com ada.tessaro@iegexpo.it

On the cover. Bracelet by Paolo Piovan Gioielli. From VO+ Usa, Summer 2017, ‘Chromatic’ feature. Photo by GianuzziMarino.

S SDJ PACKING SRL Mr. Diego Zancan Via F. Baracca, 51/A Arezzo - Italy +39 0575 1820427 +39 0575 1820428 Mr. Mario Lingria 2 West Fairview Los Angeles - USA +1 6462368642 sdjpacking.com mario@sdjpacking.com SIGI GROUP C/O DIAGI Mr. Rishi Rawat Via Testore, 16 Alessandria - Italy +39 0131 262100 +39 0131 41503 shows@sigigroup.com SONGA ANTONIO S.P.A. Mrs. Mara Constanza Ruggeri Showroom Via Albricci, 7 1st floor Milano - Italy +39 02 72403229 +39 02 89095600 export@songa.it songa.it STEFANI SAINT JACQUES Mr. Jacopo Stefani Via dell’Oreficeria, 40 Vicenza - Italy +39 0444 288136 +39 0444 288116 jacopo.stefani@stefaniargento.com stefaniargento.com STEFANI STEFANO SRL Mrs. Maria Antonietta Reato Via Puccini, 23 Vicenza - Italy +39 0444 563777 info@stefanistefano.it stefanistefano.it

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TECNIGOLD Mr. Paolo Piotto Via Molini, 30 Borso del Grappa (TV) - Italy +39 0423 9128 +39 0423 912900 maratonella@tecnigold.com tecnigold.com

UNOAERRE Mr. Alessandro Bruni Strada E n°5 - San Zeno (AR) - Italy +39 0575 9251 +39 0575 381764 bruni@unoaerre.it unoaerre.it

TERERÒ SRL Mr. Agostino Carotenuto c/o Il Tarì, modulo 221 Marcianise (CE) - Italy +39 0823 826973 +39 0823 517221 terero@tari.it terero.com

V

TESSITORE 1888 Mr. Enrico Tessitore Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 37 Napoli - Italy +39 081 403719 +39 081 409098 tessitorejewels@libero.it tubogas.it TOP GOLD Mr. Andrea Guarnacci Mr. Gioele Tigli Isola Di Castelluccio, 51 Capolona (AR) - Italy +39 0575 451451 +39 0575 451828 andrea.guarnacci@topgoldsrl.com gioele.tigli@topgoldsrl.com topgoldsrl.com TOP STAR SRL Mr. Franco Massimini Strada A, 19 San Zeno (AR) - Italy +39 0575 959288 +39 0575 959291 franco.massimini@topstar.it topstar.it

VAID - ROMA Mr. Daniele Valabrega Via Bocca di Leone, 32 00187 Roma - Italy +39 06 69940305 +39 06 6797880 info@vaid.it vaid.it + 1 917 679 0859 daniele.valabrega@vaid.it VICTORIA GEMS Mr. Prem Sajnani Viale Milano, 108. Vicenza - Italy +39 0444 525797 +39 0444 528053 info@victoriagems.com Mr. Ashish Bansal 1180, Avenue of the Americans. New York - Usa +1 917 924 1117 ashish@victoriagems.com victoriagems.com VICENZAORO Ms. Stefania Fin Via Emilia, 155 Rimini - Italy +39 0444 969970 +39 0444 969000 stefania.fin@iegexpo.it vicenzaoro.com ZANCAN Via dell’Artigianato, 2 Nanto (VI) - Italy +39 0444 638137 +39 0444 730040 marketing1@zancangioielli.com zancangioielli.com


PRIVÉ. Sunday, July 2 3 – Tuesday, Ju ly 25, 2 017 I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L BA RC LAY, N E W YO R K

An elite jewelry buying experience in New York at our new location,

Intercontinental Barclay.

OPEN TO ALL QUALIFIED JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS J C K O N L I N E . C O M /L U X U R Y P R I V E


shows & events

THE CALENDAR

86

InteRnAtIonAL Stroll along the River Walk in historic San Antonio June 16–18.

• JUNE

29–JULY 5 MASTERPIECE LONDON

8–10

JUBINALE

London masterpiecefair.com

Kraków, Poland jubinale.com

9–11

HYDERABAD JEWELLERY, PEARL & GEM FAIR Hyderabad, India

• JULY 3–4

JOVELLA Tel Aviv, Israel jovella.co.il

hyderabad.jewellery fair.in

6–9

15–18

SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY EXPO

CAMBODIA INTERNATIONAL GEMS & JEWELRY FAIR

Singapore sije.com.sg

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Pensacola, Fla. americanbead shows.com

12

JUNE MARKET DAY Hudson, Mass. northeastmarket center.com

14–17

DALLAS APPAREL & ACCESSORIES MARKET Dallas dallasmarket center.com

16–18

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston intergem.com

SAN ANTONIO PREMIER WHOLESALE JUNE 2017

JEWELRY, GIFT & ACCESSORIES SHOW San Antonio parkertradeshow.com

17–18

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Birmingham, Ala. americanbead shows.com

22–23

SOUTHERN WHOLESALE GIFT SHOW Lafayette, La. southernwholesale giftshow.com

23–24

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Tampa, Fla. americanbead shows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Eugene, Ore. gemfaire.com

intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

TREASURES OF THE EARTH GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Fisherville, Va. toteshows.com

24–26

CHARLOTTE GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW Charlotte, N.C. charlottegiftshow.com

FLORIDA JEWELRY & APPAREL EXPO Kissimmee, Fla. gtshows.com

26–27

23–25

San Diego

Miami

gemfaire.com

GEM FAIRE

Timonium, Md.

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

GEM FAIRE

30–JULY 2

iwjg.com

Marlborough, Mass. intergem.com

• JULY 7–9

GEMFAIRE Portland, Ore. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Philadelphia intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Seattle intergem.com

OKLAHOMA SUMMER BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Oklahoma City aksshow.com

14–16

GEM FAIRE

22–25

JUNE HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR

Singapore welcomes exhibitors from China, Cambodia, Italy, and more July 6–9.

Hong Kong exhibitions.jewellery netasia.com/6jg

San Rafael, Calif. gemfaire.com

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS SHOW Livonia, Mich. glwshows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Novi, Mich. intergem.com

NEW ORLEANS SUMMER BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Kenner, La. aksshow.com

Get ReADY FoR… LUXURY PRIVÉ JULY 23–25

JCKONLINE.COM

PREVIOUS PAGE: BUKKI88/ISTOCK (VEGAS); KIRK STRICKLAND/GETTY (SALT LAKE CITY); THIS PAGE FROM LEFT: F11PHOTO/ISTOCK; ANEK S/ISTOCK

cambodiatradefair.org

10–11


CONTACT: 212-520-4972 SALESUSA@THOMASSABO.COM

VISIT US AT BOOTH B21143 & B22143 THE BRIDGE/BAYSIDE | LEVEL 1


The Essence of Timeless Design 18 Karat - Platinum - Fine Gems

JCK Luxury, Las Vegas • June 2 - 8, 2017 • LUX1011

Winner/Finalist of the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards for 9 consecutive years since 2009

Showroom San Francisco (415) 621-8880 jyescorp@gmail.com www.jyescorp.com


89

the industry authority

JUNE 2017

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK James Matero Katie Szirmay Jaymark Jewelers jaymarkjewelers.com Instagram: @jaymarkjewelers

SIBLING REVELRY

Jaymark Jewelers’ co-owners Katie Szirmay and James Matero are building a strong custom business with a tech-savvy approach to service BY EMILI VESILIND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BEN RITTER

W

HAT HAPPENS WHEN a pair of millennials take the reins of a fourth-generation fine jewelry store? At Jaymark Jewelers in Cold Spring, N.Y., brother-and-sister gemologists (and millennials) James Matero and Katie Szirmay have updated their shop’s legacy of superb craftsmanship by integrating cutting-edge tech tools designed to bring speed and versatility to the store’s manufacturing and consumer experiences. As kids, the pair played with the ultra-detailed, fine silver charms their grandfather created by hand. “He would make a tiny stove charm and the knobs would turn and the stovetop would come off—the work was

JCKONLINE.COM

incredible,” Szirmay says. “We take that same mentality of incredible craftsmanship and add technology to it.” The shop is now renowned for its custom design capabilities, which almost always utilize 3-D printing; the printers are set up in the showroom so customers can watch their designs “grow.” Szirmay and Matero do custom consultations in person, but also over Skype, an option they say is getting more popular with clients. But the tech-heavy environment doesn’t negate the need for old-fashioned bench chops. “You have to use the Old World techniques in conjunction with technology to make a piece absolutely perfect,” Matero says.


Shop Talk

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

90

Far left: Matero and Szirmay clowning around at our photo shoot; left: Jaymark’s Sparrow diamond eternity ring with 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k gold, $1,500

“We try to have as much fun as possible. Buying jewelry shouldn’t be boring.” —Katie Szirmay

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER

JUNE 2017

what they are getting before it’s made. Skype appointments are really taking off, and we’re working to streamline the process even more. James: In the past, it was “Oh, I’m going to make something beautiful— here’s the stone, go ahead and make something.” Now it’s “I want it to look just the way I want it to look.” And we can do that for customers in our very own showroom, or Skype with them if they’re on a military base in Kandahar [Afghanistan], or anywhere.

When you first came on, how did you begin modernizing the store? James: As soon as we took it over, we started to make it over. “Specializing in the unusual” was actually our great-grandfather’s slogan, and we decided to adopt that again. We figured we would embrace the 21st century and work to be able to customize anything. With the 3-D printers, we can come up with a design in a day, and in two days the customer can be holding the cast-out piece. Katie took what we do in-store and brought it to the internet—there was no web presence at all at the time.… Now we offer the same quality online that we offer in the store. In the store we run a pretty tight-knit ship. We have the two of us, a full-time bench jeweler, and a few part-timers. How do Skype appointments work? Katie: You can request a Skype appointment right from the website. We can split-screen Skype with you to show you what CAD is creating on the computer, and then we can mail you 3-D pieces to review. You can have it in your hands overnight with overnight mail. People see exactly

You also connect with consumers on Facebook Live. Katie: James and I have a blast with Facebook Live. We try to have as much fun as possible, and we try to make jewelry fun. Buying jewelry shouldn’t be boring and point-and-click. James: We just kind of point the camera and have fun. We’re in the Hudson Valley and we have turkeys and deer outside running around, and we’ll film things like that. Why not show everyone how much fun we’re actually having? So many people hate their jobs!

Top: Jaymark’s New Roc gold stud earrings, $200; above: Cold Spring gold and diamond pendant, $350

Why do you think younger jewelry buyers are connecting so strongly with custom design? Katie: I think it’s just a really big shift. It used to be there was the expectation of getting a ring during a proposal. Now we’re seeing a lot more couples coming together and looking for the custom experience—not just the jewelry. JCkoNlINE.CoM


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Booth

B15V1e5ga5s Las

Shop Talk

RETAIL THERAPY

JCK

RULES OF ENGAGEMENT BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What are your best tips for posting to social media from the trade-show floor?

RACHEL HOLDER SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR FREDRIC H. RUBEL JEWELERS Laguna Beach, Calif. Instagram: @fredricrubeljewelers

a: “I only post new things to social media. New things are a call to action for our customers to come into the store and check out what we have. I also post a live video feed so people can see what it’s actually like to be at JCK Las Vegas and how we bring things into the store. We want our clients to get that firsthand feel of how exciting it is to be there. I’m on all the different social media platforms on my phone, and can post directly to Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter.”

Book your appointment before the show starts and be entered to win a KORITE Ammolite watch.

Call 1-800-917-2228

MARSHALL VARON CO-OWNER MORGAN’S JEWELERS Torrance, Calif. Instagram: @morgansjewelers

a: “Usually I wait to post photos

until I get back. Then I have access to higher-quality, professional photos [of the merchandise] we saw and bought from the manufacturers—and can post those for our customers.”

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

www.korite.com

DONNALEE GRAY MANAGER KAY CAMERON JEWELERS Sayville, N.Y. Instagram: @kaycameronjewelers

a: “A few years ago, we had a

sales rep whose kids and family were posting pictures from the floor—people could see that they weren’t at home, and their house got robbed while they were gone. Instead, we wait until we return and then post lots of pictures from the show. We definitely want customers to have a better idea of what we do to [source] new, quality merchandise for our store. So as we’re working and going from booth to booth, we take pictures with [designers and company representatives] and post them when we get back.… And everyone should hook up with the Wi-Fi at the show, so you don’t get hit with data charges.”

BRETT FUENFER VICE PRESIDENT FUENFER JEWELERS Wilmette, Ill. Instagram: @fuenferjewelers

a: “Only post pictures of

merchandise that you’re going to have in your store. Customers will see what you post online and want it. If they do come into your store and you don’t have it, tell them you’ll get it for them!” JCKONLINE.COM


SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

94

1600 BOULDER ST. DENVER

METALMARK FINE JEWELRY

Around the block from Denver landmarks Little Man Ice Cream and Linger (the Olinger mortuary turned restaurant) is a new regional hot spot for local artisan jewelry. Metalmark prides itself on its community-friendly atmosphere. Each night, before or after grabbing a coveted cone at the Little Man milk jug, families freely stroll through the boutique.

M

ETALMARK, WHICH WELCOMES passersby with a simple desert-pink outline of its namesake butterfly, is the 1-yearold collaboration of Indianapolis natives and childhood friends Mary Leppert (pictured, above left) and Samantha Larkins (above right). “I never thought I would open a store,” says Leppert, who started in jewelry retail and recalls her employers taking little time to enjoy life outside the store. “But we have good priorities.” As for Larkins, a designer with her own brand, Samantha Louise: “I knew I wanted to be a jewelry designer in high school after taking a glass bead–making class.” She soon figured out how to discreetly use a torch to make beads in her bedroom. “Luckily nothing ever caught fire,” Larkins laughs. When she made the move to Denver about 10 years ago, Leppert followed.

JUNE 2017

“People see us coming into the boutique wearing our jeans; they bring their dogs and kids and are welcome,” says Larkins.

STILL LIFE: COURTESY OF METALMARK

BY MONA QURESHI-HART PHOTOGRAPHY BY REBECCA STUMPF


95

“What we’re finding here is that people appreciate the smaller independents.” —Mary Leppert

Pendants by (r.) TAP by Todd Pownell, Rahaminov, Samantha Louise, and (opposite page) Line + Hue.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN ROCKS About 60 percent of the designers stocked at Metalmark are Colorado-based—starting with Larkins, whose signature is rich, matte-finished 18k yellow gold. (One of her favorite pieces? Her gold petal earring jackets: “I love pairing them with a classic diamond stud to feel edgy and sophisticated.”) The whitewashed cases, created by Leppert and Larkins, also feature delicate modern geometric styles by Colorado brands Amour Absolu and Belle & Bone; cross motif pieces inspired by the mineral staurolite from New Mexico–based Diane Dorsey; and, in a nod to the owners’ Midwestern roots, organic inverted diamond designs by Cleveland’s TAP by Todd Pownell. The boutique caters to Coloradans heading to the theater or to a hike—in other words, jewelry made to be worn in multiple settings. Leppert points to a Rahaminov diamond matchstick necklace that could easily go from work to dinner: “It’s fine jewelry with a twist,” she says, “and I’m always a sucker for that combo!”

Metalmark’s alternative bridal collection includes rings from designers such as Annie Fensterstock.

MILE-HIGH MAGIC The store is honoring Denver with a 14k gold cuff that outlines the skyline, the Rocky Mountains to the west, and starry skies above illuminated by diamonds. While the brand Katherine & Josephine also has created cuffs featuring cities such as London and Paris, the retailers have developed such a strong love for their adopted hometown that they requested one exclusively for Metalmark. Of both her designers and patrons, Leppert says, “we are creating this community of people for us to work with.” JCKONLINE.COM

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-ofjck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

JUNE 2017


97

the industry authority

JUNE 2017

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1 2 3 BICOLOR CURIOUS

Watermelon tourmalines make the perfect sweet summer treat (that’ll last you all year long) BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

4 1/ Watermelon tourmaline earrings in 22k yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver; $1,320; Margery Hirschey; 303-818-6357; margeryhirschey.com

2/ Watermelon tourmaline earrings in 18k white gold with diamonds and rubies; $26,360; Frederic Sage; 800-651-1810; fredericsage.com

3/ Khepri ruby and watermelon tourmaline ring in 18k rose gold; $1,875; Daniela Villegas; shafira@danielavillegas.com; danielavillegas.com JCKONLINE.COM

5

4/ Watermelon tourmaline earrings with kunzite, green amethyst, and diamonds in 14k gold; $8,800; Dana Rebecca; 312-701-1773; danarebeccadesigns.com

5/ Watermelon tourmaline butterfly ring in 14k rose gold with diamonds; $6,250; Jacquie Aiche; 310-5507529, ext. 101; jacquieaiche.com


the look

RED CARPET

98

BEYOND THE PALE

Prime time’s most stylish stars prove it’s all about hue when it comes to pulling off the perennially popular (but oft-overplayed) pink BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Antique pearl and ruby earrings in 14k gold; sold; Beladora; 800-6809569; beladora.com

UNDER $20,000

Double circle post earrings in 14k yellow gold with pearls, $435; JewelMak; salesorder@ jewelmak.com; jewelmak.com

JUNE 2017

UNDER $500

Spanish Armada earrings with 4.97 cts. t.w. rose-cut pink sapphires and 2.29 cts. t.w. black diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $13,900; LFrank; 310-452-0771; lfrankjewelry.com

If there’s one thing you can predict about Ross’ style, it’s that it’s totally unpredictable. One day she’s rocking monster hoop earrings and a fabulous fringe ensemble. The next she’s wearing a skintight python-print dress with a wet-look ’do. And here, for the Essence Black Women in Hollywood gala—where she paid tribute to her Black-ish costar Yara Shahidi—she went modern vintage, with a high-neck peekaboo pink chiffon number by Brazilian designer Lethicia Bronstein (plus gold estate jewels). We can’t wait to see Ross’ next red-carpet transformation. JCKONLINE.COM

ROSS: PG/SPLASH NEWS

tRACee ellIS RoSS


the look

100

RED CARPET One-of-a-kind earrings with pink opal, aquamarine, emerald, and full-cut diamonds; price on request; Irene Neuwirth; 310-450-6063; ireneneuwirth.com

UNDER $20,000

Earrings with 56 cts. t.w. angelskin coral, 10.28 cts. t.w. emeralds, and 3.66 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $19,000; Andreoli; 212-582-2050; andreoliusa.com

UNDER $500

Moore’s stylist, Erica Cloud—who, incidentally, is going to be at JCK Las Vegas (see page 161 for more!)—called this look “pink of perfection,” and we’re inclined to agree. With its playful bell sleeves and tailored bodice, this superlight pink Roksanda dress was exactly the right combination of girly and graceful— just right for the premiere of Disney’s Tangled: Before Ever After, in which the This Is Us star provides the voice of Rapunzel. Finishing off her not-too-princessy look: elegant multicolored drop earrings in watercolor-painting gemstone hues.

JUNE 2017

Pink opal earrings in 14k yellow gold; $333; Stuller; 800-877-7777; stuller.com

JCKONLINE.COM

MOORE: DAVID EDWARDS/NEWSCOM

MANDY MooRe


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800.622.0960 | royalchain.com | Visit Us at JCK, Booth B36155


the look

102

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

CAN YOU DIG IT?

When she’s not designing spectacular jewels, you can probably find erica Courtney plunging into the depths of a gemstone mine BY ARI KARPEL

T

Regent ring with 5.59 ct. orangeypink tourmaline and 0.86 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $17,200

Amazon pendant with 100.49 ct. peridot, 5.96 cts. t.w. purple garnet, and 2.33 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k gold; $230,000 (chain sold separately); Erica Courtney; 323-938-2373; ericacourtney.com JUNE 2017

HE FIRST TIME Erica Courtney descended into the ground to visit a gem mine, she figured it would be no big deal. “I thought, I know how you mine: You go down in the little train, and you’re sitting the whole way down, and everything is super-cute and super-friendly—like in Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, right?” Wrong. “So, we get in what we now call the death trap,” recalls Courtney, sitting in the relative comfort of her Los Angeles office and showroom, “which is like a can—a giant can with [steel pegs] on the floor. You’re balancing to try to hold yourself up because you’re going pretty much straight down. You’ve got to hold yourself like that while you’re wearing these boots that probably don’t fit because they were made for a large man.” She continues: “And then you get out and walk the rest of the way down. Unless they tell you to rappel.” As you go down, the temperature goes up. “It’s getting hotter and hotter and hotter, and you should be in shape if you’re going—which, thank God, I was—but not in shape enough, because I was shaking by the time I got out. It was super hard. And I had eaten an Erica breakfast,” by which she means she had an egg and a piece of toast. Courtney knows better now. These days, she visits a few mines a year all over the world—Thailand, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, Australia, Colombia, Turkey, various JCKONLINE.COM


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800.622.0960 | royalchain.com | Visit Us at JCK, Booth B36155


the look

104

DESIGNER SHOWCASE Treasure ring with a 14.45 ct. blue chalcedony and 0.98 ct. t.w. diamonds in platinum; $18,000

“It’s a lot harder than you think, and it costs a lot of money to mine for gems.” —Erica Courtney

Top: Courtney climbing down a mountain in a Vietnamese jungle; bottom: in Vietnam holding a piece of spinel rough

countries in Africa. Every time, she prepares by eating a hearty breakfast. “I’m absolutely, completely hooked” on visiting mines, she says. “I’m drawn to sparkly things, and the whole place is sparkling.” She’s not alone. Courtney’s sparkling creations have attracted legions of followers for her one-of-a-kind, multicolored, intricate diamond-studded earrings and fantasystoking rings that sell for as much as $200,000 apiece. The mine visits can put such high prices in perspective. “When you’re wondering why jewelry costs so much money, I’m here to tell you why,” Courtney says. “It’s a lot harder than you think, and it costs a lot of money to mine for gems. They could be mining for three years and not find one single, solitary thing. The good stuff is very rare. I mean, that’s the part that puts it in perspective— understanding how hard they work.” When she’s down in a mine, she gets a firsthand, intimate look at the process. “It’s not done by machine, it’s done by two hands, by that man and that lady.”

A (LITERALLY) SHADY PAST Today, she may be a jet-setting, high-priced designer whose jewels adorn such celebrities as Jessica Alba and Sandra Bullock, but Courtney’s past is, shall we say, more JUNE 2017

Top: Genie earrings with 7.12 cts. t.w. mint garnet and 5.24 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $60,000 (huggies sold separately); above: Toi et Moi ring with 3.12 cts. t.w. Mexican fire opal and 1.12 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $10,000

checkered. And it reveals an entrepreneurial instinct that not only helped her establish a thriving jewelry business but also got her through some hard times. It all started with a broken necklace, some ingenuity, and a rather insistent mother. At 19 years old, living in Dallas, Courtney found herself in possession of a damaged Swarovski crystal chain. Feeling inspired, she glued the pieces onto a pair of sunglasses. “My mom thought they were so cute,” Courtney recalls. “She and I walked out of the house and somebody said, ‘Oh, I love your sunglasses,’ and my mom told her, ‘My daughter’s a jewelry designer. You should buy them from her.’ I was like, ‘Mom, what are you talking about?’ ” She was talking about the fact that her daughter was creative and could use a few bucks—not to mention a career. But Courtney had no idea how to go about such a thing. Naturally, her mother gave her instructions: “Figure it out.” So Courtney went to Dallas Jewelry Mart, where she snatched up a pile of sunglasses. The guy she bought them from asked her to sell her work at an upcoming show, where she wound up with a job managing a showroom. “Three months later, I was a jewelry designer.” Good thing, because she was already on the lam from the FBI. You see, Erica Courtney is an assumed name (inspired JCKONLINE.COM


Launch a movement We have it all. From fashion-forward to classic. The Royal Chain Gold Collection is what’s new, what’s next and what’s forever. It’s a name that’s synonymous with unmatched quality, selection and value in beautiful gold and silver jewelry. And it’s guaranteed to help you create the momentum you need to grow and profit exponentially.

800.622.0960 | royalchain.com | Visit Us at JCK, Booth B36155


the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

106

Medusa pendant with a 9.28 ct. sapphire and 1.6 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $50,000

Diana ring with a 5.34 ct. spinel and 5.35 cts. t.w. custom-cut diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $200,000

by All My Children’s Erica Kane) for Tasha Ingram. Back in Louisiana, Ingram had a son, Josh, with a man who had a bit of a temper, to put it mildly. They divorced and, because of her ex-husband’s local connections, Ingram feared he would win full custody. So she took her 4-yearold son and skipped town. In the eight or so years that followed, Erica and Josh lived in many different places, all while she was establishing a successful jewelry business. She used her wiles to open bank accounts without a Social Security number. But her past caught up with her in 1992, while she was in New York City for a jewelry show. There, the feds came knocking on her hotel room door. Courtney wound up back in Louisiana, serving two years of parole. “Everybody’s been through something,” Courtney says, thoughtfully. “But it just makes us better, right?” Things are, indeed, better these days. The instincts that helped her survive all those years definitely served her in establishing an enduring business in the heart of the entertainment industry. (The assumed name stuck.) Today Courtney is single. Her son, Josh Cappo, builds and customizes motorcycles that are often featured in such publications as Hot Bike magazine, as his proud JUNE 2017

mother reports. He lives nearby, so she gets to have plenty of quality time baking with her 6-year-old granddaughter. “She is my heart and soul,” Courtney says.

CHANGING THE CONVERSATION

Top: Eva ring with 3.07 ct. Paraiba, 0.1 ct. t.w. demantoid garnets, and 0.43 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $60,000; above: Eva earrings with 7.43 cts. t.w. colorless topaz and 0.59 ct. t.w. diamonds in platinum, $8,500 (huggies sold separately)

Courtney’s background has certainly shaped her point of view on the jewelry industry, which she sees as lacking respect for female designers and customers—ironic, considering that women are the backbone of the industry. “You’d be surprised how many stores I go in and [employees] interrupt my scheduled sale right here with ‘Well, I’ll call your husband.’ And I’m like, Dude, do not walk up to my case anymore, do not. I don’t care if it’s your customer. Unless you can zip it and stop saying the H-word. You know—you’re the salesperson, you should be saying, ‘You should buy this, and let your husband get you that big diamond you wanted.’ That’s what I tell them.” And it works for her. Courtney’s customers love all the little extras that adorn her designs. “Sometimes the setting is as important as the gemstone. I want it to be a conversation piece.” With Courtney’s designs, you can look at them from every angle and find, say, precious topaz and an Afghan tourmaline that’s bright orange. “That’s its natural color! They’re all natural.” And very dramatic. JCKONLINE.COM


TIMELESS BEAUTY IS ALWAYS IN FASHION Everyday elegance and effortless sophistication define our iconic Woven Collection. Crafted in gold with diamonds in Italy, this signature collection is affordable luxury for today’s modern women. Come discover the 2017 Holiday Collections premiering at our new booth at JCK Las Vegas B36160. phillipgavriel.com ¥ 800-622-0960


the look

Asks...

HISANO SHEPHERD

little h Luxe freshwater drop and soufflé pearl dangle earrings with rubies

the biggest myth about pearls? that they’re round, white, and boring, says the little h artist. FILE THIS UNDER “worst advice ever received”: “While working on my undergrad years ago, I attended a GIA career fair. I asked a very famous jewelry designer for advice,” recalls Hisano Shepherd. “He told me I would never make it as a jewelry designer and I should do something else.” Thankfully, Shepherd ignored him. Today, she’s carved out (sorry, couldn’t resist!) a niche for herself with treasure-chest–like pearl pieces scooped out and filled with diamonds, colored stones, and even more pearls. See her brand, little h, and her famous Pearl Geodes at the Design Center at JCK. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: Old enough that I don’t get carded anymore. Number of years in the biz: 11 Number of employees you oversee: Four Family/pets: Husband, parents, stepson, step-granddaughter. Describe your personal style: Sophisticated chic; my go-to colors are black, gray, and white, and I love layering jewelry. JUNE 2017

little h Point Tahitian pearl ruby stud earrings

little h Tahitian keshi pearl and black diamond ring

First piece you ever designed: My first commissioned piece was a sterling silver ring with colorful cabochons for my Japanese classical dance instructor. The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: I made a sterling silver and freshwater pearl necklace for my friend’s wedding 10+ years ago. She wore the same necklace at my wedding, which made me so warm and fuzzy. Your favorite type of pearl: Natural conch pearls that look like jelly beans. They also happen to be the rarest pearls in the world. First job ever: Seasonal job at a post office in Japan. How did you get started designing jewelry? My mom was hesitant about letting me get my ears pierced as a child. I had to get creative to convert pierced earrings into clip-ons. I also made a lot of friendship bracelets. If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Felting and working in textiles. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Sliced Tahitian Pearl Geode ring with white diamonds, wedding ring set, diamond pendant, petite akoya pearl rope, Tahitian keshi studs with rubies from my Point collection. Five items on your desk right now: Pearls, gemstones, water bottle that tracks my daily H2O intake, a forever-long to-do list, and an amethyst geode. Five songs on your playlist: “Cheap Thrills,” Sia, feat. Sean Paul; “Starboy,” The Weeknd, feat. Daft Punk; “Warm Water,” Banks; “We Found Love,” 2Cellos; “Fancy,” Xavier Dunn. Exercise regimen: Personal training twice a week, yoga, and an occasional run on the beach. What did you have for breakfast? Every morning my husband makes me a mixed-berry smoothie with a love note written on a paper towel wrapped around the cup. Guilty pleasure: Late-night online shopping + dark chocolate + wine = danger. Drink (daytime/evening): Latte/pinot grigio. First website you check each day (not your own!): Instagram. Scent: Lavender, if I need to chill. How do you unwind? Traveling with my husband. The last destination was Tahiti. Favorite movie: Life Is Beautiful (pictured, above inset). Personal motto: Be true to myself, be creative, get it done right. JCKONLINE.COM

LIFE IS BEAUTIFUL: EVERETT COLLECTION; YOGA: MARIJA SAVIC/STOCKSY; TAHITI: MVALIGURSKY/GETTY; CHOCOLATE: IRAVGUSTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK

Q&A

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Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

Ron Beauchamp “Our jewelry store, Beauchamp Jewelers, was founded by my parents in 1951. As a third generation jeweler, I spent my entire career working in the store. We had deep roots in the industry. We were members of the American Gem Society, Jewelers of America and the American Gem Trade Association for decades. We were also committed to helping our local community by providing donations to many different charitable organizations for many, many years. It was extremely difficult to make the decision to close the store after 65 years of vibrant business in Albuquerque. But tough as it was, the decision to hire Wilkerson was easy. So many friends, and so many referrals in the industry all pointed to the fact that Wilkerson was the absolute best!

“Wilkerson is the best of the best. THE professionals in the industry.” Ron Beauchamp Beauchamp Jewelers Albuquerque, NM

The sale enabled me to eliminate debt, buy out my two siblings, and build a nest egg for retirement. My Wilkerson sales consultants were absolute rock stars! They were genuinely nice, and had the experience and passion to make the sale a huge success. We exceeded my wildest expectations, doing nearly two years of business during our 14 week event! The Wilkerson team made the whole experience fun and profitable. I would absolutely recommend Wilkerson to another jewelry store owner. They are the best of the best! They are THE professionals in our industry.”

Visit Us at JCK Booth #B26169 Wilkerson is a professional jewelry consultant firm, with industry experts who come along to help with a transition — whether retiring, going out of business, or moving. With more than 50 employees dedicated to a storeʼs success, Wilkerson is an expert at running sales and maximizing profit.

Contact us today for a free consultation! Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999. Or visit us at wilkersons.com.


The art of being a woman

Come visit us at the TI SENTO Milano booth during JCK Las Vegas 2017. Mandalay Bay Resort | Area: The Bridge, B11146 SHOW US WHAT YOU WEAR #TISENTO

FASHIONABLE RHODIUM PLATED STERLING SILVER JEWELLERY

TISENTO-MILANO.COM


HAIR: LOUIS ANGELO/JUDY CASEY; MAKEUP: BOBBY BUJISIC/JUDY CASEY; STYLIST: NADIA RATH/FACTORY DOWNTOWN; MANICURIST: RACHEL SHIM USING DERMELECT ‘ME’ IN WHAT A GEM. FULL PAVÉ DIAMOND COLLAR IN 18K ROSE GOLD, $8,190, CAGED MOON CHOKER IN 18K YELLOW GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $9,450, SHAY, 646-745-6831, SHAYFINEJEWELRY.COM; ROUND DIAMOND CHOKER IN 18K WHITE GOLD, $27,000, RAHAMINOV, 800-742-8864, RAHAMINOV.COM; DIAMOND STARBURST COLLAR NECKLACE IN 14K YELLOW GOLD, $1,595, KC DESIGNS, 800-552-3790, KCDESIGNSNYC.COM; COUTURE NECKLACE IN 18K WHITE GOLD WITH DIAMONDS, $121,397, LE VIAN, 877-2-LEVIAN, LEVIAN.COM

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Photograph by Gavin O’Neill

FEATURES

JUNE 2017


SPOTLIGHT

D I A M O N DS IN THE BUFF IS IT HOT IN HERE, OR IS IT JUST THIS JEWELRY? W E ’ R E T U R N I N G U P T H E H E AT W I T H H U N D R E D S U P O N H U N D R E D S O F C A R AT S O F T H E C O O L E S T I C E A RO U N D .

Photography by Gavin O’Neill Jewelr y direction by Randi Molofsky St yling by Nadia Rath


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T E N N I S B R AC E L ETS Diamond baguette cluster halo bracelet in 18k white gold, $25,500, Dilamani, sales@ dilamani.com, dilamani.com; oval diamond bracelet in platinum, $112,000, round diamond bracelets in platinum, $60,000–$82,000, diamond block bracelet in platinum, $53,000, Oscar Heyman, 212593-0400, oscarheyman.com; oval diamond tennis bracelet in platinum, $252,000, round diamond tennis bracelet in 18k white gold, $235,000, Rahaminov,

800-742-8864, rahaminov.com; 5-row open mixed diamond ring in 18k white gold, $7,350, Shay, 646-745-6831, shayfinejewelry. com; diamond tennis bracelet in 18k rose gold, $132,000, emeraldcut diamond tennis bracelet in platinum, $503,000, Rahaminov; Red Carpet diamond bracelet in 14k white gold, $24,447, Le Vian, 877-2-LEVIAN, levian.com; Tesoro diamond bracelet with pink, rose, and peach sapphires in 14k white gold, $16,695, Dallas Prince

Designs, dallasprincedesigns@ gmail.com, dallasprincedesigns.com; diamond baguette cluster tennis bracelet in 18k white gold, $22,500, Dilamani; Center of My Universe bangle in 18k white gold, $36,260, Forevermark by Rahaminov, 203-388-3550, forevermark.com; 5-row closed mixed diamond ring in 18k white gold, $7,140, Shay; 7-stone rose-cut diamond Iris ring in 18k rose, yellow, and white gold, $2,225 each, Lauren K, 212-7192067, laurenk.com


M I X E D C U TS Diamond necklace in 18k white gold, $5,750, Laura Medine, 212-986-5700, lauramedine. com; baguette and round diamond necklace in 18k white gold, $29,990, Ashi Diamonds, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds. com; diamond chain in platinum, $56,532, Christopher Designs, 212-382-1013, christopherdesigns. com; diamond necklace in 18k

white gold, $66,000, Dilamani, sales@dilamani.com, dilamani. com; diamond ring in 18k white gold, $5,832, Doves by Doron Paloma, 888-663-6837, dovesjewelry.com; diamond ring in 18k white gold, $25,500, Dilamani; Queen of Diamonds ring in platinum, $23,600, Robert Procop, 310-276-6041, robertprocop.com


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C H A I N L I N KS Oval pavĂŠ diamond link bracelet in 18k rose and white gold, $17,125, Sofer Jewelry, 212-575-0213, soferjewelry.com; Essential link bracelet in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $18,060, Shay, 646745-6831, shayfinejewelry.com; diamond tennis bracelet in 14k

white gold, $7,765, Gabriel & Co., cs@gabrielny.com, gabrielny.com; Red Carpet ring in 18k Vanilla Gold with Vanilla Diamonds, $21,447, Red Carpet necklace in 18k rose gold with diamonds, $80,447, Le Vian, 877-2-LEVIAN, levian.com


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H EA RT S H A P ES String of Hearts diamond necklace in 18k white gold, $24,000, Forevermark by A. Link, 203388-3550, forevermark.com; yellow and white heart-shape earrings in 18k yellow and white gold, price on request, VTse, 626-577-9288, vtsejewelry.com; heart-shape signature studs in 18k white and

yellow gold, $60,000, Rahaminov, 800-742-8864, rahaminov.com; fancy yellow heart exceptional diamond ring with white diamonds in platinum, price on request, Forevermark Exceptional Diamonds by Julius Klein Group, 203-388-3550, forevermark.com


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SPOTLIGHT

THE CUTTING T RU T H J C K T R A C E S A S P E C TA C U L A R 6 5 C A R AT Y E L L OW D I A M O N D ’ S JOURNEY FROM ROUGH TO POLISHED PERFECTION

By Rob Bates

N OCTOBER 2016, Dominion found something unexpected at Ekati, the diamond mine it owns in Canada’s Northwest Territories: a 65.93 ct. piece of bright, sparkling yellow rough. It was a big stone. It had a strong yellow color. It would no doubt make an impressive polished stone. The trick was turning it into one. The art of cutting and polishing is one of the most specialized in the diamond industry. Techniques range from the “bang it out” bread-and-butter work done on smaller stones in mass-production factories in India to the painstaking labor of highly trained craftsmen responsible for transforming million-dollar diamonds. Colored diamonds are among the most complicated diamonds to manufacture, as cutters weigh their key consideration—maximizing the stone’s color—against clarity and carat size. Following the discovery, Dominion sent its newest pride and joy to be cut at New York City–based Optimum Diamonds, which specializes in manufacturing rare fancy colored pieces. Among the items the company has worked on: the 14.62 ct. Oppenheimer Blue, which in 2016 garnered $57.5 million at Christie’s, making it one of the most expensive diamonds ever sold at auction.


HOW A ROUGH BECOMES A GEM

1. The piece of yellow rough as it emerged from the Ekati mine in October 2016 Initial weight: 65.93 cts.

2. To center the culet, Optimum lasered the diamond into two pieces. The smaller piece came out to 4.7 cts., which was later cut into the “satellite” stone. Current weight: 60.52 cts.

Cutting the Dominion yellow was a complex process, requiring weeks of planning, double-checking that planning, and dealing with the unexpected, along with copious amounts of elbow grease. Optimum gave JCK a front-row seat to the transformation.

SHAPE SHIFTERS From the time the piece of rough arrived at Optimum’s New York City office, the principals knew they were dealing with something extraordinary, especially given its Canadian origin. “With its saturation and size, it’s something you don’t see every day,” says Josh Cohn, a partner at Optimum. “In North America, it’s definitely not something you see every day.” Figuring out what to do with the rough was a group effort, with all the company principals weighing in. Diamond cutting is “this amazing mixture of art and science and math and business,” says Optimum founder David Shara. “It can be a real puzzle.” One key question: What shape should it be? The group narrowed down the choices to an antique cushion, a radiant, and an emerald cut. The easiest choice, and the one most —David Shara, Optimum Diamonds companies might go for, would be a radiant. That has long been the most popular shape for fancy colored diamonds, as the rounded corners of a radiant save weight. But in this case, the stone’s color was so strong—it was shaping up to be a fancy vivid—Optimum also considered an emerald cut. It’s not a popular shape for fancy colored diamonds because it leaks color. But consumers favor the emerald cut, and the group felt the color was strong enough that it could withstand a little leakage. After a few days of discussions, the group decided to go for the emerald. It wouldn’t be the conventional choice. But it would stand out, and that could make the stone more valuable. “We could have pulled off a bigger stone with a radiant, but

3. This is the diamond post-lasering, with a more centered culet. Some window facets have also been added to give an interior look at the stone, and there’s been preliminary work on the table facet. Current weight: 53.27 cts.

it’s not as special,” says Joshua Sheby, company principal. “If you have an emerald-cut vivid, it’s truly a vivid, due to the difficulty of attaining color in an emerald cut.”

THE CUTTING ROOM Emeralds have a culet—a bottom point. This rough also had a bottom point, but it was off-center, not where the cutters wanted. To create a properly centered culet, Optimum used lasers to remove a chunk of the bottom—about 4.7 cts. worth. In an unusual move, Optimum decided to turn that piece of excess into a 2.5 ct. “satellite” stone (a radiant). Yellow diamonds are all about their color. But, for reasons best known to Mother Nature, the color in colored diamonds is rarely spread evenly throughout the stone. So cutters need to determine where color is strongest and highlight that. “You need to put the concentration of color in the right place so people can see it and so it can be reflected in the right place,” Shara says. Because GIA grades colored diamonds faceup, cutters generally try to place the best color under the table, where it can be seen. Most of the actual cutting at Optimum is done by Zevan Cohen, a low-key third-generation craftsman who spends eight hours a day working on diamonds in a small windowless room the size of a closet. While Optimum uses lasers and computer modeling, Cohen freely admits a diamond factory would never make the cover of Wired. “Cutting technology really hasn’t changed that much,” he says. “It’s basically a spinning wheel.” Even though JCK visited in winter, the air-conditioning in the cutting room was cranked, to minimize humidity. Sometimes Cohen fires up the dehumidifier as well. “Diamonds can’t cut if there is a lot of humidity,” he says. “You don’t get the right friction.” Diamond cutting also tends to produce a lot of heat—

“Everything has to be perfectly shaped, perfectly balanced, perfectly polished. You just have to take your time and do everything systematically and very carefully.”


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PHOTOGRAPHS BY DIGITAL JEWELRY PHOTOGRAPHY

4. The stone is starting to be blocked, meaning the major facets are being put into place. The perimeter’s been worked on as well. The laser left lines that gave it a brackish (muddy) appearance. Current weight: 49.53 cts.

sometimes enough to make the stones turn colors—so the air-conditioning can come in handy. Cutting this yellow is, Cohen freely admits, a big job, though he’s been doing it long enough that he isn’t overwhelmed. “With certain stones, there is no room for error,” he says. “Sure, when there’s millions of dollars on the line, there is pressure. In market terms, there’s a big difference between 9.99 and 10 carats.” And Mother Nature often throws curveballs. An inclusion that looks small under the microscope may turn out to be far bigger on close examination. Sometimes the act of cutting moves flaws throughout the stone. “Every diamond is different—every diamond has its own challenges and issues,” Cohen says. “Some stones are easier than others. Some days are easier than others.” When JCK first visited, there was loose talk about the stone possibly earning a flawless grade. But given it has a pinpoint as well as a feather, that seems unlikely. “We could remove the feather to increase the clarity, but it’s diminishing returns because you want to keep the proportion and there’s not that much of a price difference between the VVS1 to VVS2,” partner Josh Cohn says. “With cutting, at every stage, you are reexamining and reassessing the thought process,” he adds. “It’s about how the stone is reacting. Is it collecting color where it needs to? Is the stone going in the right direction?” This diamond, however, didn’t require much second-guessing. The process went mostly as planned. That’s partly due to the material involved—yellow rough is considered easy to cut, a lot easier than other colors. “Colorless and yellow are very similar: The color is more homogenous,” Shara says. “With other fancy colors, you see more zoning. In green, the color is very localized and most of the time on the surface. Blue has areas of zoning. Pink is very stressful. There’s graining, a lot of stress on the stones. Then forget about purple. Purple’s a mess. It is typically Russian material. It has a lot of flaws inside it. It’s just difficult.”

5. There has been more faceting on the crown (top) and pavilion (bottom) as well as shaping on the outline. Current weight: 44.57 cts.

6. The emerald shape is clear. Almost all facets are in place, though many are still not at the right size or angle. And there are still polished lines. Current weight: 36.68 cts.

POLISH TO PERFECTION 7. With a fancy vivid yellow grade from GIA, the diamond, named the Arctic Sun, is ready for its close-up. Final weight: 30.54 cts.

By the time the yellow was ready for GIA, it was weighted a little over 30 cts. (it had lost more than half its weight). It was still receiving a final going-over. One problem: residual polished lines. “Each facet is supposed to act like a beautiful mirror,” Shara says. “Right now they are all covered in polished lines. That’s killing the look of the stone. So those facets are not doing the reflecting they are supposed to. When they’re removed, that will make everything much more beautiful, a lot less dingy.” Of course, the stone looked beautiful already, but having come this far, Optimum was determined to work on every last detail. “People who buy incredible diamonds like this are sticklers for details,” Shara says. “Everything has to be perfectly shaped, perfectly balanced, perfectly polished. You just have to take your time and do everything systematically and very carefully.” Then came the clincher: GIA weighed in with the coveted fancy vivid grade, making the 30.54 ct. stone the largest fancy vivid yellow to ever come out of North America. Dominion named it the Arctic Sun. What happens next is up to Dominion. It’s possible the mine might want to showcase the stone and get some publicity out of it, as Rio Tinto did with the 187.7 ct. Foxfire diamond found at the Diavik mine, also in the Northwest Territories. There’s talk the yellow might make an appearance at JCK Las Vegas. But eventually it will likely be sold. In a switch from how most diamonds are marketed, the stone has documented provenance, and Optimum has taken detailed photos of every step of the polishing process (see sidebar), which it hopes to present to the eventual buyer. Given that, as well as its unusual shape, Optimum believes the yellow will fetch six figures. That would make the work and planning and everything else worthwhile. “The buyers may not know everything that goes into a diamond like this,” Shara says. “But at the end of the day, you want someone to put it on their finger and say, ‘This is awesome.’”


FAIR DEAL

L.U.C XPS Twist QF Fairmined with slate gray galvanic dial in 40 mm Fairmined 18k rose gold case; $18,850; Chopard; 800-CHOPARD; chopard.com

TIME ZONE

TO C O M B AT T H E S A L E S F U N K , WAT C H M A K E R S AT B A S E LW O R L D 2 0 1 7 T U R N E D TO CLASSIC, CONNECTED, A N D C O C K TA I L - S I Z E DESIGNS—WITH A DASH OF T R E N DY G R E E N T H ROW N IN FOR GOOD MEASURE

By Victoria Gomelsky


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WAIT FOR IT

Slim d’Hermès L’heure Impatiente in 40.5 mm 18k rose gold case with hour, minute, and “impatient hour” functions; $39,900; Hermès; 800441-4488; usa. hermes.com

HIGH MOON

Grande Seconde Moon with ivory enamel dial in 43 mm 18k rose gold case; $28,900; Jaquet Droz; 201-271-2223; jaquet-droz.com

CLASSIC ROSE GOLD MEN’S STYLES BIRD MAN

Métiers d’Art HM Falcon Unique Piece hand-wound, hand-painted miniature on white mother-of-pearl dial in 40 mm 18k rose gold case; $37,500; Arnold & Son USA; 213-622-1133; arnoldandson.com

CLASSIC MOVE

Classique 7147 with Grand Feu enamel dial in 40 mm 18k rose gold case; $21,000; Breguet; 866-458-7488; breguet.com


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CONNECTED WAT C H E S MODULAR SQUAD

Connected Modular 45 in 45 mm black ceramic case; $1,650; TAG Heuer; 973467-1890; tagheuer.com


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GOING STRONG

Seastrong Horological Smartwatch in fiberglass and stainless steel case; $595; Alpina; 954-312-3600; alpinawatches.com

SMART START

Ladies Horological Smartwatch in stainless steel; $950; Frederique Constant; 954-3123600; frederique constant.com

LINKED IN

Movado Connect in 46.5 mm stainless steel case with 37 mm, 400 by 400 AMOLED digital display on black silicone strap; $495; Movado; 800-8102311; movado.com

CLOSE CALL

Eco-Drive Proximity Pryzm with Bluetooth compatibility in 48.7 mm stainless steel case; $695; Citizen; 800-321-1023; citizenwatch.com


GREEN DIALS GOOD VINTAGE Chronofighter Vintage GMT chronograph with green sunbrushed dial in 44 mm steel case; $6,950; Graham; 213-622-1716; graham1695.com

RETURN TO SLENDER

True Thinline Colours in polished green high-tech ceramic case; $2,100; Rado; 800-283-7236; rado.com

POWER HOUR

Manero PowerReserve with green dial in 42.5 mm stainless steel case; $11,000; Carl F. Bucherer; 800-395-4306; carl-f-bucherer.com

ON EDGE

Edge with green concave sandblasted aluminum with ray-textured edge and matching raised, polished tonal dot in 40 mm black ion-plated stainless steel case; $595; Movado; 800810-2311; movado.com


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LADIES’ C O C K TA I L STYLES

MY CLAIR LADY

Clair de Rose in 34 mm stainless steel case; $2,300; Tudor; 212-8979900; tudor watch.com

HERE COMES THE SUN

Citizen L Sunrise LS with mother-ofpearl dial in 33 mm stainless steel case; $695; Citizen; 800-321-1023; citizenwatch.com

LA VIE EN ROSE

Rubaiyat in rose gold–tone and stainless steel with diamonds; $995; Bulova; 800-2285682; bulova.com

LET IT SHINE

Shine Etoile in 32 mm stainless steel case on Repetto strap; $2,895; Raymond Weil; 800-227-7712; raymond-weil.com


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PLANET OCEAN

Breitling Superocean Héritage II in 46 mm stainless steel case; $4,375; Breitling; 877-BREITLING; breitling.com

VENTURA HIGHWAY

Ventura Skeleton in 45.5 mm by 44.6 mm triangular case; $1,695; Hamilton; 800-234TIME; hamiltonwatch.com


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TAG PARTY

Autavia chronograph in 42 mm steel case; $5,300; TAG Heuer; 973-4671890; tag-heuer.com

DEEP DIVER

Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC in 40 mm steel case; $14,100; Blancpain; 877-520-1735; blancpain.com

V I N TA G E REDUX SEA INSIDE

Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller in 43 mm stainless steel case; $11,350; Rolex; 800-36-ROLEX; rolex.com

WISH MASTER

1957 Trilogy Speedmaster 60thanniversary limitededition chronograph in 38 mm stainless steel case; $7,250; Omega; 201271-1400; omega watches.com


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OBJECTS OF

COLLECTION A 90-YEAROLD FAMILY JEWELER OFFERS TIME-HONORED ADVICE ON CULTIVATING LIFELONG CLIENTS By Kathy Henderson


CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: 1. Emily Sarah cocktail ring in 14k yellow gold with 0.07 ct. t.w. diamonds; $550; Dana Rebecca; 312-701-1773; danarebeccadesigns.com 2. Oceanica Fringe earrings with gray pearls and hematine; $950; David Yurman; 212-752-4255; davidyurman.com 3. Haute Couture ring in 18k white gold with 2.8 cts. t.w. diamonds, pink sapphires, and tourmalines; $39,000; Roberto Coin; 212-486-4545; robertocoin.com 4. Drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with Australian opal; $5,500; Amáli; 718-789-8976; amalijewelry.com 5. Scallop Artisan pavé pendant in 18k white gold with 1.57 cts. t.w. diamonds; $5,680; Harry Kotlar; 213-626-0428; harrykotlar.com 6. Octo Finissimo Automatic 40 mm watch in titanium; $13,900; Bulgari; 800-BULGARI; bulgari.com 7. Forevermark by Jade Trau pavé signet ring in 18k yellow gold; $2,900; Forevermark; 203-388-3550; forevermark.com 8. Flex Forte bypass bracelet in 18k white gold with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,200; A. Link; 212-838-5355; alinkandco.com 9. Lollipop, Senso, and Rock Candy collection bangles in 18k gold with turquoise, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds; $1,995–$5,995; Ippolita; 877-865-5500; ippolita.com 10. Panthère Joueuse in 40 mm 18k white gold case with brilliant-cut diamonds, lacquer spots, and emerald eyes; price on request; Cartier; 800-CARTIER; cartier.us


134 HAT DOES IT take for the woman who is an occasional jewelry buyer to become a collector? More specifically, what can a retailer do to transform that casual customer into a loyal patron— one who thinks of jewelry as an essential part of her wardrobe and is willing to spend her own money to get exactly what she wants? In an uncertain retail environment, the quest to attract female self-purchasers has never been more intense. After all, women make a whopping 85 percent of consumer buying decisions, according to the Interpublic Group of advertising agencies, and more than 90 percent of decisions about spending on food, vacations, and new homes. The jewelry industry, with its emphasis on engagement rings and gift giving, has traditionally lagged behind in attracting female buyers, but the rise in women’s earning power is helping change that: De Beers’ most recent Diamond Insight Report revealed that 31 percent of non-bridal diamond jewelry was self-purchased by millennials in 2015, an increase of six percentage points since 2013. With so many sources of inspiration and temptation available to female jewelry lovers via the internet, social media, and 24/7 celebrity coverage, traditional retailers have had to step up their game. “If you stand behind the counter and wait for people to come into the store, it’s not going to happen,” says Candy Udell, president of London Jewelers, which has served fashionable customers on New York’s Long Island for 90 years and recently opened its sixth location in the Oculus at the World Trade Center transportation hub. “Clienteling is not what it used to be.”

W

RELATIONSHIP GOALS

Recently JCK met with Udell to talk clienteling at London’s flagship in the ultra-posh Americana Manhasset shopping enclave, 20 miles east of Manhattan. It’s not an overstatement to call the store a palace of jewelry: In 20,000 square feet divided into distinct boutiques and multiple storefronts, London sells its own collections as well as more than 50 designers ranging from Cartier and Chopard to Roberto Coin and Harry Winston. A pioneer in partnering with established brands, London boasts David Yurman and Van Cleef & Arpels mini-boutiques on one end of the space and Chanel on the other. A sun-splashed Two by London bridal shop offers custom-made engagement rings and wedding bands, and the newly redesigned watch salon brings together the world’s best timepieces. In short, any woman could build an enviable jewelry collection here, attracted by the wide selection of merchandise and the personal attention that London has shown to four generations of loyal clients. “Nobody else does what we do in terms of customer service,” says Udell’s daughter Randi Udell-Alper. “The internet doesn’t give you that hands-on experience.” Certainly the internet won’t come to your yacht, docked in Sag Harbor, and bring jewelry to complement a season’s worth of outfits, as Udell-Alper has done. “She goes into people’s closets and jewelry boxes and styles them,” Udell explains with a laugh. “Randi wears 15 bracelets of every brand, and she brings that sense of fashion to her clients. We call it an arm party. People give her their arm and say, ‘Style me.’ Younger clients get the same level of care when shopping for stackable rings or necklaces that can be worn in layers.”

The retailer got its start when watchmaker Charles London, who emigrated from Europe to Long Island, went door to door in the early 1920s offering to repair clocks at Gold Coast estates. That level of service remains the key to success for today’s independent jewelry retailers, according to Udell. “Get customers involved with the basics,” she says, “because once they come to you for a pair of studs and you do right by them, they will come back. Once they buy a watch, knowing you’ll take care of them whenever they walk into your store, they will become a client and start building a wardrobe, not only for themselves but for their children and grandchildren. That’s what every jeweler’s specialty has to be: relationships.” No wonder the word family pops up constantly in conversation with Udell, who uses it to refer to customers, business partners such as David and Sybil Yurman, local charities, and, of course, her husband, Mark Udell (CEO and grandson of the company’s founder), and their two adult children. Son Scott Udell dreamed up the millennial-focused Two by London concept, while Udell-Alper works with her mom on buying, marketing, and event planning.

MAD ABOUT MARKETING The family actively participates in the company’s marketing efforts, including distributing 60-pound holiday gift baskets of fresh fruit and gourmet goodies to 350 top clients. (“When people get bumped off the list, we hear about it,” Udell quips.) London Jewelers hosts charity cocktail parties at its two Hamptons locations, and Udell has received national recognition for her Cause for Paws jewelry line, whose proceeds have saved the lives of more than 2,500 shelter dogs to date. Two by London has partnered with Tacori and Forevermark in a series of scavenger hunts in which young couples compete to win a $25,000 diamond engagement ring. Although London maintains an extensive website and active social media presence, Udell firmly believes there is no substitute for handling a piece of fine jewelry. “You can research a million things online, but you really have to touch it and see how it’s made, feel the weight of it, look at the stones,” she says. “Jewelry is an emotional purchase, and websites lose a lot of that [feeling].” As for that coveted self-purchaser, Udell sees an increase in women shopping on their own for what she considers the core pieces of a jewelry collection: diamond stud earrings, bracelets that can be layered, and chain necklaces that can be worn at different lengths. Even the Two by London department is set up to encourage brides-to-be to participate in the design of their rings. Notes Udell-Alper: “Our customers start with the classics and then add in things that are funkier. It’s how I like to wear jewelry, mixing new pieces with things my grandmother gave me.” Having spent her career catering to luxury shoppers, Candy Udell has concluded that the personal nature of jewelry inspires a higher level of customer loyalty than other accessories and apparel. “When it comes to a handbag or shoes, women will buy it wherever they see it,” she says. “But in the world of jewelry, there are so many firsts—baby gifts and push presents, bar and bat mitzvahs, communions, weddings, anniversaries, birthdays. These are the special occasions you help people celebrate, and you become part of their family.”


CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: 1. Cleo gold, diamond, and lapis statement ring; $3,100; Marli; sales@marlinyc.com; marlinyc.com 2. Sidney 38 mm chronograph with signature zigzag hand-set diamond bezel and mother-of-pearl dial; $1,895 (available July 25); Michele; michele.com 3. Nudo rings in 18k rose and white gold with prasiolite, diamonds, madeira quartz, blue topaz and diamonds, London blue topaz, and amethyst; $1,750–$13,450; Pomellato; 800-254-6020; pomellato.com 4. The Gail with dark camel textured leather strap and gold sandblast sunray dial; $700; Shinola; 888-304-2534; shinola.com 5. Mixed diamond double wire illusion earrings in 14k yellow gold; $595; ZoÍ Chicco; 213-489-1226; zoechicco.com 6. 18k rose gold open hexagon with rock crystal pendant; $2,750; Walters Faith; 917-484-0490; waltersfaith.com 7. Sonoma Mist Dew Drops bracelet in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver; $4,490; Tacori; 800-421-9844; tacori.com 8. Double elongated teardrop earrings in 14k white gold with 1.39 cts. t.w. diamonds; $2,495; Ritani; ritaniwholesale@ritani.com; ritani.com 9. One-of-a-kind Starfish Sea pendant in 18k yellow and white gold with 32.2 ct. boulder opal and 0.88 ct. t.w. diamonds; $36,500; Monica Rich Kosann; 203-972-3115; monicarichkosann.com 10. Paradise necklace hand-engraved in 18k yellow gold with chalcedony; $6,530; Marco Bicego; 415-249-3800; marcobicego.com


P E R I O D P I E C E S H OW J EW E L RY D E S I G N E R S ARE REINTERPRETING THE TIMELESS TRENDS OF Y E S T E RY E A R F O R TO D AY ’ S CONSUMERS

By Amy Elliott P h o t o g r a p h y b y J a m e s Wo j c i k

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INTAGE JEWELRY IS hotter than ever—at the collector and connoisseur level, it’s all about these eras: Victorian (1835–1900), Art Deco (1920s–30s), and the 1960s/1970s. Meanwhile, we’ve noticed a number of present-day designers reimagining the iconic metalwork, motifs, and palettes of the past in ways that feel entirely au courant. Contemporary designers, such as the ones showcased on these pages, might be responding to what they’ve seen at jewelry exhibits at major museums (like “Jewels by JAR,” at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2013–14, or “Set in Style,” the Van Cleef & Arpels retrospective that debuted at New York City’s Cooper Hewitt in 2011). The popularity of period TV shows such as Downton Abbey, Mad Men, and The Crown may likewise be exerting an influence. Or perhaps these designers are heeding a consumer demand for jewels imbued with romance and nostalgia, as is often the case during times of economic and political uncertainty. Whatever the reason, the timing feels just right. Get to know what distinguishes Victorian, Art Deco, and 1960s/1970s jewelry, and the 21st-century torchbearers who are blurring the lines between past and present.


PROP STYLIST: ANGELA CAMPOS/BERNSTEIN AND ANDRIULLI; BANGLE AND MEDALLION NECKLACE: COURTESY OF CHRISTIE’S IMAGES LTD. 2017

137 (Opposite page) Garden of Eden fire opal ring with wrapped snake in 18k yellow gold with 0.5 ct. t.w. champagne diamonds, $7,200, Tanya Farah, 212-682-5188, tanyafarah.com; coiled serpent ring with rhodolite garnet and diamonds in 18k yellow gold and sterling silver, $1,670, Anthony Lent, 646-745-6831, anthonylent.com; Designs by Kristina 18k yellow gold snake ring with a triangular natural translucent green jade stone and cabochon ruby eyes, $1,670, MasonKay, 303-393-7575, masonkay.com; 18k white gold wrapped snake cuffs with 0.5 ct. t.w. pavé black diamonds, $6,990, with 0.5 ct. t.w. pavé white diamonds, $7,800, Borgioni, 310-849-9050, borgionis.com; ring in 18k black gold with 3.5 cts. t.w. diamonds, $9,000, Sutra, 713-984-4987, sutrajewels.com

Serpent brooch with demantoid garnets, diamonds, and a natural pearl in 14k gold, circa 1870, M.S. Rau Antiques, 888-5572406, rauantiques. com; floral en tremblant brooch three-piece set with Burma rubies, pink sapphire, and diamonds in silvered gold, circa 1865, M.S. Rau Antiques; hinged floral bangle in gold with colored sapphires, pearls, rubies, and enamel, signed FromentMeurice, circa 1870, Christie’s, 212636-2000, christies. com; gold and cloisonné enamel medallion necklace, signed Alexis Falize, circa 19th century, Christie’s

VICTORIAN “It’s a very broad period encompassing a huge range of styles and influences,” says Jessica Peshall, associate jewelry specialist at Christie’s UK. “The most desirable items among collectors are chandelier ear pendants, tiaras that convert to necklaces, botanical and insect brooches, and archaeological revival jewels.”

Defining characteristics: Small colorful gemstones were the rage, but when large deposits of diamonds were discovered in South Africa in the 1870s, a proliferation of jewels featuring larger diamonds emerged. “Flowers, serpents, leaves, and scrolling shapes were also favorites,” says Mia Moross, owner of online estate

jewelry retailer The One I Love NYC. Look for garnets, seed pearls, rose-cut diamonds, sapphires, opals, rubies, jet, and sentimental jewelry (e.g., lockets, portrait miniatures, memorial rings). The originators: Bapst, Castellani, Chaumet, Falize, Garrard, Giuliano, Lalique, Mellerio, and Paulding

Farnham (Tiffany & Co.). “A series of world exhibitions in the second half of the 19th century for the first time allowed jewelers to showcase their wares to a global audience,” Peshall notes. The torchbearers: Le Vian, Blackbird and the Snow, Tanya Farah, and Temple St. Clair, among others


138


139 (Opposite page) Platinum bracelet with 12.74 cts. t.w. sapphires and 1.85 cts. t.w. diamonds, $42,000, John Buechner, 800-5412675, johnbuechner. com; platinum ring set with 1.77 ct. red spinel, 2.57 cts. t.w. diamonds, and black enamel, $14,600, Pampillonia, 214-503-7272, pampilloniadesigns. com; ring in platinum with 4.48 ct. Sri Lankan sapphire, 1.43 cts. t.w. round diamonds, and 1.28 cts. t.w. baguettes, $50,000, Jye’s International, 415-621-8880, jyescorp.com; platinum necklace with 2.09 cts. t.w. Crisscut Asschercut diamonds, 1.4 cts. t.w. Crisscut baguettes, and 17.22 cts. t.w. round diamonds, $75,675, Christopher Designs, 800-9550970, christopher designs.com; Signature tassel with 3.5 mm–5 mm white cultured pearls and 1.06 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $4,400, Mastoloni, 800-3473275, mastoloni.com

Onyx, coral, diamond, and enamel brooch, signed Cartier, circa 1925, Bonhams, 212-461-6526, bonhams.com; Egyptian revival ruby and diamond necklace, signed Cartier, circa 1925, Bonhams; bricklink cuff bracelet with emeralds and diamonds, signed Cartier, circa 1925, Bonhams

ART DECO “The Art Deco period is defined by geometric and linear design creations,” says Susan Abeles, director of U.S. jewelry at Bonhams. “At first jewels were flat, but within 10 years, the jewelry became more sculptural.” Defining characteristics: Clean lines. Sharp angles. Egyptian, Asian, Russian,

and Indian influences. Platinum. Stepcut and marquise diamonds. Precious colored gemstones plus onyx, coral, jade, and rock crystal. Tassels. Stylized botanicals. Fan shapes, zigzags, chevrons, and other geometric motifs. The originators: Belperron, Boucheron, Cartier, Després, Fouquet, Marchak,

Mauboussin, Oscar Heyman, and Van Cleef & Arpels. “Each designer and house contributed and had its own distinctive style; they were greatly influenced by applied arts and music as well as politics,” Abeles says. The torchbearers: It’s difficult to name a jeweler that hasn’t been influenced

by the Art Deco era. A short but invariably incomplete list includes such historic-but-still-operating firms as Boucheron, Cartier, and Oscar Heyman, as well as hordes of contemporary designers, including Christopher Designs, Deborah Pagani, Mastoloni, and Stephen Webster.


140


141 (Opposite page) Extremely Piaget Lace Decoration pendant in 18k rose gold with turquoise pearls and 5.69 cts. t.w. brilliantcut diamonds, $48,000, Piaget, 877-8-PIAGET, piaget.com; turquoise and pink zircon earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $18,440, Jordan Alexander, 646-745 6831, jordanalexander jewelry.com; 24k gold Olivia necklace with 57.72 ct. Sleeping Beauty turquoise, $6,380 (handmade chain: $3,800), Lika Behar, 201-9337200, likabehar.com Yellow diamond rose brooch in 18k yellow gold, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1960, M.S. Rau Antiques, 888-5572406, rauantiques. com; David Webb clip-on earrings in 18k yellow gold with two greenishblue turquoise cabochons and 74 round-cut brilliant diamonds, circa 1960s, Craig Evan Small at 1stdibs, 310-550-7895, craigevansmall. com; 18k yellow gold link bracelet by Cartier, circa 1970s, Fred Leighton, 646-759-9668, fredleighton.com

1960s/1970s “This era gave us very bold looks via large brooches and cocktail rings,” says George Peralta, sales consultant for New Orleans–based M.S. Rau Antiques. “The silhouettes were large and exaggerated, and the metalwork was softer and rounder than that of previous decades.”

Defining characteristics: “The most easily recognizable pieces are long, fun earrings, bold bracelets, and big chunky chains and necklaces,” says Kurt Rothner, owner of Excalibur Jewelry in Los Angeles. Also look for graphic floral motifs. Semiprecious gems like citrine, amethyst, and especially tur-

quoise. Multicolor stone combinations. Textured metal. Egyptian references, thanks to the Tutankhamen exhibit, which debuted in 1976 at the National Gallery in Washington, D.C. The originators: Bulgari, David Webb, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels, Andrew Grima, and Salvador Dalí.

The torchbearers: Bulgari, David Webb, Piaget, and Van Cleef & Arpels continue to produce contemporary jewelry that evokes the 1960s and ’70s. They are joined by scores of designers whose work harks back to the era’s bold, swinging style. Think Buddha Mama, Erica Courtney, and Victor Velyan.


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STOCK AND AWE

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WHEN THE MARKET RISES, SO DO JEWELERS’ SALES TICKETS. A N D T H AT ’ S N O B U L L !

3

By Whitney Sielaff

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1. Saxon two-inch chain link hoop earings; $3,450; waltersfaith.com 2. Anna II dome ring in 18k yellow gold with sapphires and diamonds; $2,650; alexsepkus.com 3. Rainbow Needle Drop ear jacket in 14k yellow gold with rubies, emeralds, and multicolor sapphires; $805 (sold singly); sydneyevan.com 4. Lunaria ring hand-engraved in 18k yellow gold with white motherof-pearl; $1,680; marcobicego.com

“It’s a tight market. You’ve really got to throw people a curve. We’ve been doing very nicely with Fope and Plevé of late. And Roberto Demeglio—we’re having a great run with them.” —Jonathan Landsberg, co-owner, Landsberg Jewelers, Rye Brook, N.Y.

HINGS ARE LOOKING up for wealthier Americans. Consumer sentiment is soaring on record-low unemployment, strong monthly job gains, and rising wages. Real estate prices are approaching prerecession levels, with U.S. residential home values adding half a trillion dollars in the final quarter of 2016 alone, according to the Federal Reserve. But perhaps most noteworthy? The meteoric rise of the stock market. A 14 percent surge in the Dow Jones Industrial Average and similar increases in other major equities indexes over the four months following the November

election helped boost U.S. household net worth by an estimated $3 trillion. According to economists, the wealthiest 10 percent of those households own 80 percent of the stock market. And when stocks rise, giddy investors feel richer and get the shopping bug. “The mood of the customer is pretty darn good,” says Ryan Michael, owner of Dacels Jewelers in Bellevue, Wash. “You see people’s eyes open wide when they look at what the market’s doing. It’s really starting to show.” Patrick Murphy, owner and president of 104-year-old, three-store

Murphy Jewelers in Pottsville, Pa., couldn’t agree more. “When you see your monthly statements, with the stock market taking off like this, we’re all feeling better,” he says. “There’s no doubt we’re looking at the good times.”

THE POSTELECTION EFFECT Jewelers are describing today’s market as highly prosperous and sustainable. And they’re crediting the newly elected, pro-business Republican government, citing the president’s pledge to cut taxes, roll back regulations, and inject fiscal stimulus through heavy spending on domestic infrastructure.


PHOTOGRAPHY: BARTOSZ POTOCKI

Luxury • Las Vegas • Salon #1321


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“The men like their toys and their watches. We’re feeling a lot of enthusiasm toward Breitling and other better brands. It’s going to bring us a lot of business.” —Gerald Amerosi, president, Gerald Peters, Staten Island, N.Y.

“It’s going to be very good for business,” Murphy says. “I don’t always agree with his decisions, but I support the president and love my country. As a retailer, somebody in business, I feel he has the right model. People are enjoying life. They’re going after the better things. We’re really going to see some results in this coming year.” According to Randall Cole, co-owner of Diamond Vault of Troy in Troy, Mich., the 2016 election marked a polarization of the American electorate. But the outcome proved positive for jewelers in their dealings with customers of either political persuasion. “Politically, you’re seeing an erosion of the middle, with people moving either strong to the right or strong to the left. But both sides are spending,” Cole says. “You have all the independents and Republicans in the base who are energized. And then the Democrats are thinking, We better do it. He’s going to ruin the country anyway.” Regardless of whether they voted blue or red, jewelers say sales began picking up steam just after the election. 5. When Spring Came ring in 18k rose gold with sapphires and diamonds; price on request; ferrarifirenze.com 6. Constellation ring in 18k gold with 0.66 ct. gray diamond slice and 0.34 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,934; kaalidesigns.com 7. Navitimer Rattrapante splitseconds chronograph in 45 mm gold case; $38,325; breitling.com

“We eclipsed our best Christmas,” says Charles Skibell, owner of Skibell Fine Jewelry in Dallas. “We started jumping for joy, wiping the sweat off after what started as a very tough 2016.” Store traffic intensified, a trend that’s continued. “Yesterday was nonstop,” Cole says. “Today is more of the same.” Price points are up sharply. “The value on the ticket has just jumped since November,” says Sarah Sockolof, co-owner of Simms Jewelers, located three miles up the road from Trump National Golf Club in Bedminster, N.J. “People started spending significant dollars on single purchases again.” Multiple purchases are also becoming more common. “A lady yesterday purchased a $4,000 diamond ring just because it was unique, and then asked us to find her 4 carat studs,” Skibell says. “Another client came in last week looking for two watch batteries. I started showing her things, and she bought a string of beads. The next day she called about a ring. It was $5,500.” Simms Jewelers is enjoying similar results. “I had a client call me about

a Carlo Weingrill Tubogas bracelet she had bought years ago,” Sockolof says. “She wanted four more. These are five-strand bracelets that roll onto the wrist in 18 karat—$12,000 or $13,000 per bracelet. Until recently, that kind of thing had stopped.”

STOCK OPTIONS Jewelers are wasting no time in leveraging the situation. “We do an annual retreat to come up with our forecast and set the budget,” explains Murphy. “Major expenses like our purchasing, the advertising—all in the context of what we’re forecasting for our growth and expansion. And with the recent developments, we’ve budgeted up.” And many retailers are budgeting up open-to-buys at the Vegas jewelry shows. “My thinking is to turn some of the stuff and make room for things that are more exciting, buying more deeply into lines I like,” Sockolof says. “I’d like to pare down by 20 percent and use that money for nicer pieces. I want to be able to inspire the $100,000 sale with the $20,000 piece in the case, just make it bigger.” In Westchester County, N.Y., which borders affluent Greenwich, Conn., Jonathan Landsberg, co-owner of Landsberg Jewelers in Rye Brook, N.Y., wants to add new lines that have a wow factor: “I’ll be in Vegas for JCK, LUXURY, and Couture. I’m looking for three new designer lines that are going to shake things up,” he says. “I can’t tell you what, ’cause I don’t know. But it’s out there somewhere.”

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FO R T H E RECORD DIGGING INTO JEWELRY HISTORY FOR THE BIGGEST, MOST EXPENSIVE, AND MOST SHOCKING STATS

187.7

CARATS Weight of the Foxfire diamond, unearthed in the remote Diavik mine in Canada’s frigid Northwest Territories. Discovered in 2015, it is the biggest gem-quality uncut diamond ever found in North America.

$137,235,575 Total proceeds from the sale of renowned diamond-lover Elizabeth Taylor’s expansive jewelry collection by Christie’s New York in 2011, making it the most valuable jewelry collection ever auctioned.

The year Mellerio dits Meller was established. The French jewelry store catered to generations of European royals and is the oldest jewelry store in the world as well as the oldest family-run business in Europe, according to Forbes.

17.4%

59% Amount of gold mined in 2016 used for jewelry (Source: Thomson Reuters)

129 billion $

Share of U.S. market held by category leader Signet Jewelers Ltd.

1785

The year that Revolutionary War veteran Christian Bixler III opened Bixler’s Jewelers (pictured) in Pennsylvania. The oldest jewelry store in the United States stayed in the family for 221 years before being sold in 2006.

COLLECTIVE VALUE OF ALL THE GOLD MINED IN 2016

(Source: Thomson Reuters)

365,000+

40.2

CARATS

Size of the Uncle Sam diamond, the largest diamond discovered in the United States. It was unearthed at Arkansas’ Crater of Diamonds State Park in 1924.

NUMBER OF PEOPLE EDUCATED BY THE GIA SINCE THE ORGANIZATION’S INCEPTION IN 1931

27,850

23,429 21,007*

NUMBER OF JEWELRY BUSINESSES IN NORTH AMERICA IN 1997, 2007, AND 2017, RESPECTIVELY *as of the end of 2016

TAYLOR: EVERETT COLLECTION; VINTAGE CORAL BRACELET: © MELLERIO DITS MELLER

HUMAN BEINGS WILL go to great lengths for jewelry. We mine high up along the Arctic Circle or more than 2 miles below the earth’s crust. Precious metals and gemstones are bought at auction, given as gifts to rulers of sovereign and corporate empires—sometimes even hidden away or stolen. The jewelry industry has generated no shortage of superlative statistics and scintillating stories in its rich history, and today, these facts can be critical touchpoints for connecting with a new kind of consumer. In an era where millennial shoppers are looking to reinvent tradition and make their jewelry purchases unique, going beyond the numbers can help such customers craft a narrative around their investments. The value of some of these gems is jaw-dropping, but the value their backstories give the industry is greater still. —MARTHA C. WHITE

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Destination: Style Salon LUX 111

www.sophiabydesign.com 215.629.0260


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FO R T H E RECORD

75 POUNDS WEIGHT OF WHAT IS BELIEVED TO BE THE LARGEST PEARL IN THE WORLD, FOUND IN THE WATERS OFF THE PHILIPPINES IN 2005 BY A FISHERMAN WHO KEPT IT AS A GOOD LUCK CHARM FOR MORE THAN A DECADE.

$30.3 MILLION

$34.7 BILLION

545.7

COLLECTIVE REVENUE OF AMERICAN JEWELRY RETAILERS IN 2016

Estimated number of recoverable carats at Russia’s Yubileyny diamond mine, the world’s largest

2.5 MILES

CARATS

Weight of the Golden Jubilee Diamond—the largest faceted diamond (of any color) in the world. This yellowish diamond clocked in at 755.5 cts. when found.

360,000 CARATS

Depth of AngloGold Ashanti’s Mponeng gold mine in South Africa, the deepest in the world. At that depth, the mine walls are 140 degrees Fahrenheit, cooled with an elaborate system of giant fans and pipes pumping ice slush from the surface.

752 POUNDS

A FROST & SULLIVAN ESTIMATE OF THE AMOUNT OF LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS PRODUCED IN 2014.

Size of the famed Bahia—the world’s largest, and possibly unluckiest, emerald. Since its discovery in Brazil in 2001, it has been embroiled in lawsuits and intrigue.

71.2

$

million

Price paid for the 59.6 ct. Pink Star, a fancy vivid pink internally flawless oval diamond, at Sotheby’s Hong Kong in April, setting the world record as the most expensive gem ever sold at auction.

$6,163

Average price of an engagement ring in 2016. That’s more than 20 percent higher than five years earlier; in 2011, the average cost was a comparatively inexpensive $5,095. (Source: The Knot)

1477

YEAR THAT HOLY ROMAN EMPEROR MAXIMILIAN I GAVE THE FIRST KNOWN DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RING TO HIS WIFE-TO-BE, MARY OF BURGUNDY, WHILE HE WAS STILL ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. (IN 1947, 470 YEARS LATER, DE BEERS WOULD DEBUT ITS “A DIAMOND IS FOREVER” AD CAMPAIGN.)

3,106.8

CARATS

Weight of the Cullinan Diamond— the largest gem-quality white diamond ever mined. It was discovered in South Africa in 1905 and subsequently cut into gems, some of which adorn the British crown jewels.

3,827

Number of diamonds set into the dazzling Peacock Ring. Certified by Guinness World Records as the ring set with the largest number of diamonds, the Peacock has an estimated value of

$20 million Value of a fictional necklace that became a real-life treasure, when Harry Winston re-created Titanic’s Heart of the Ocean necklace for actress Gloria Stuart to wear at the 1998 Academy Awards—still officially the most expensive single piece to grace the Oscars red carpet.

$2,744,525

13.7 pounds Weight of the largest faceted gemstone in the world, the El-Dorado Topaz, which tips the scales at 31,000 cts. Unearthed in Brazil in 1984, the stone was a backbreaking 81.6 pounds in the rough.

BOAT: 79PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY; MINE: GRAEME WILLIAMS/GALLO IMAGES/GETTY; PEACOCK RING: COURTESY OF SAVIO JEWELLERY

153 MILLION

Price paid in 2015 at a Sotheby’s auction for the Sunrise Ruby, the world’s most expensive ruby. The 25.6 ct. Burmese ruby was mounted between two large diamonds onto a ring by Cartier.


A STORY TOLD CREATES A DIAMOND SOLD. Every diamond has a story. Telling a compelling one is key to driving sales and creating happy customers. That’s why AGS Laboratories offers Only My Diamond ™, an engaging online tool that brings the unique characteristics of your diamond to life in a visual, easy-to-understand format. In turn, Only My Diamond ™ gives your customer the ability to share their diamond’s story with family and friends. Suppliers and retailers: Experience a revolution in selling. Go online for your free demo—and for information on other valuable services, such as our popular diamond grading report for mounted goods. Visit us at Booth L103, email support@agslab.com or call 877.FOR.0CUT (877.367.0288) to learn more.

www.agslab.com


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PART TWO

OUR TWO-PART SERIES EXPLORES EVER-CHANGING CONSUMER HABITS—AND HOW JEWELERS MUST REACT IN ORDER TO THRIVE IN THE NEXT DECADE… AND BEYOND B y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

R E TA I L , DISRUPTED

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HERE IS NOTHING that you carry in your store that I can’t buy online.” It’s the first thing Bob Phibbs, CEO of The Retail Doctor, a retail consultancy based in New York City, tells the brands that hire him. The statement has a simple mission: to wake up retailers trying to do good business by using bad, outdated methodologies. Because there’s no denying it—digital retailing, in all its iterations, is disrupting the industry on a seismic scale. “Let’s not kid ourselves,” says Phibbs, who’s worked with jewelry and watch brands including Omega and Hearts On Fire. “Victoria’s Secret lost 20 percent of its foot traffic last month. The shake-up in retail isn’t happening a few years from now—it’s happening now.” And now, more than ever, jewelry retailers need to be nimble in their responses to market conditions, which are increasingly tipping the balance of power away from retailers and toward consumers.

BRICK-AND-MORTAR MATTERS “The only way to survive as a retailer is to constantly create an exceptional experience for your customers,” Phibbs says.

“All you have is your people—and the experiences you create within your four walls. If I drive to your store and I don’t get an exceptional experience, I will not be back.” The basics of creating an exceptional in-store experience include keeping your space meticulously clean, making sure it smells and looks good and, above all, avoiding the cultivation of an us-versus-them environment. “In most small stores, the owners are hanging out in the back, getting their usual coffee, and everyone who works there knows each other and is having a great time,” he explains. “And then it’s ‘Oh! Here come those damn customers!’ Retailers need to get away from this idea that customers need us more than we need them. That’s how it used to be, but not anymore.” Jewelry retail expert and sales trainer Shane Decker agrees. “Everyone says the number one reason people shop on the internet is price,” he says. “But it’s not. They go to the internet because they’re tired of crappy in-store experiences.” Along with instituting continuous, high-quality sales training, Decker recommends upping efforts in so-called clienteling—following up with clients with a thank-you card or inviting them in to get their jewelry cleaned. Overhauling run-down stores and keeping a closer watch on trends are also areas stores need to work on, he says. “Too many jewelry retailers are not keeping up with trends, and it’s hurting them.”


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— Bob Phibbs, The Retail Doctor

Jewelers also should be mindful of the burgeoning secondhand luxury market, which is connecting with millions of consumers shopping for jewelry and watches on websites like TheRealReal.com and Hodinkee.com. Does it make sense to start stocking previously owned luxury watches or estate engagement rings in your city or town? Millennials, in particular, appreciate the eco-friendliness and cost savings attached to secondhand luxury. Even with that and other competition for retailers, “I still routinely walk into a small store and do not get greeted,” says Phibbs with a sigh. “I mean, how cavalier are you?”

THE DIGITAL REVOLUTION IS REAL Of course, when it comes to thriving in this new retail environment, upgrading the in-store experience is only half the battle. Striving to be competitive online—particularly on mobile—should be a top priority, says Ben Smithee, CEO of marketing consultancy The Smithee Group. “And retailers need to change their focus to mobile. It’s the small screen now that’s important.” For online success, Smithee suggests building on four pillars: creating and maintaining a great e-commerce website that is mobile-optimized (designed to work effectively with smartphones and tablets); having some kind of content hub (a blog or some other medium to communicate with clients); utilizing email for client communications, which could include things like newsletters and sale notices; and cultivating an attractive, highly engaged presence on social media. Also important, Smithee says, is “having the ability to create landing pages online.” What’s a landing page, exactly? It’s a web page with its own URL that shares info on an event, a sale, or another fleeting happening. Companies embed the links to event-specific landing pages in emailed

graphics and social media posts, to name two vehicles. These landing pages work well for brands because “they move people through the funnel effectively and efficiently online,” Smithee says. “If I’m inviting them to an event, why would I send them back to a home page when I could send them to a customized landing page that is only about that event and has an email capture? Now I have their email so I can follow up on the event, send them ads…and then I can use all the information they give me to create customized content for them.” Smithee warns that brands not putting budget behind social media “are not going to survive in the game.” But luckily, posting ad content on networks including Facebook, Instagram, and Pinterest is not only user-friendly but also relatively cheap, while offering terrific consumer targeting capabilities. “If you can get impressions [sets of eyeballs online] for pennies? Come on now,” Smithee says. “Show me what other medium works better.”

RETHINK TO REINVIGORATE By all accounts, brick-and-mortar retailing isn’t dying, but it is contracting. And retailers willing to study and respond to new consumer behaviors, invest in online, and elevate their in-store experience will thrive. No one’s saying it’s going to be easy. “The easy answer for a retailer would be ‘I need to write a check and try to fix things,’ ” Phibbs says. “The hard answer is ‘I need to fire half my crew and get new blood in here.’ ” But for small retailers, big changes can often be implemented very quickly. “You can close a store for a single day and remerchandise it,” says Phibbs, by way of example. “Then maybe you take a few more days to train people how to really sell. And suddenly, you’re seeing your business grow. In the end, you may not be bulletproof. But if you’re hungry for it, you can have it.”

PREVIOUS PAGE: SIMONE BECCHETTI/STOCKSY; THIS PAGE: JELENA JOJIC TOMIC/STOCKSY

“I still routinely walk into a small store and do not get greeted. I mean, how cavalier are you?”


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MANY WILL SAY BUSINESS AND POLITICS DON’T MIX, BUT SMALL BUSINESSES— INCLUDING SOME JEWELRY INDUSTRY FOLKS—HAVEN’T BEEN AFRAID TO SHARE THEIR POLITICAL PERSPECTIVES

H I C AG O R E TA I L E R Brian Leber isn’t afraid to voice his opinions. On the Leber Jeweler website, Leber has celebrated the push to legalize same-sex marriage, expressed opposition to the recent U.S. travel ban on Muslim-majority countries, and called out U.S. presidents—both Donald Trump and Barack Obama—for directives that run counter to the store’s own human rights viewpoints. “At Leber Jeweler Inc., we stand firmly

Barry Fixler Barry’s Estate Jewelry Bardonia, N.Y.

B y D a n i e l P. S m i t h opposed to the travel ban [and] immigration and refugee freeze implemented by the president,” an unequivocal Leber wrote on the store’s online journal Feb. 3. In today’s politically charged times, a small business broadcasting its political viewpoints might seem a risky proposition. We’ve long been admonished, after all, not to mix business and politics. “Sometimes,” Leber says, “things just need to be said, and I’m not going to stay mute because it might cost me a sale.” He isn’t alone. Plenty of jewelers across

the country have shunned tradition and mixed business and politics lately. In the aftermath of the recent presidential election, Barry Fixler, owner of Barry’s Estate Jewelry in Bardonia, N.Y., posted a picture to his store’s Facebook page featuring a photo of himself standing beside a life-size cutout of Presidentelect Donald Trump. In the photo, taken inside Fixler’s 25-year-old jewelry store, Fixler dons a red “President Trump” baseball cap and points two thumbs upward toward the camera. “I’m a bold type of

Activist Donkey and Activist Elephant pendants in 14k white gold with diamonds on a diamond cut ball chain (not shown); $998–$1,158; Alex Woo; 877-WOOICON; alexwoo.com

EAGLE BROOCH IN GOLD AND PLATINUM WITH 2.34 CTS. T.W. ROUND AND 2.24 CTS. T.W. MARQUISE DIAMONDS, 2.4 CTS. T.W. MARQUISE RUBIES, AND 4.61 CTS. T.W. SAPPHIRES, PRICE ON REQUEST, OSCAR HEYMAN

Bruce LeVell Dunwoody Diamonds USA Dunwoody, Ga.

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Smart guidelines for small businesses before offering up political thoughts:

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Know thy market: If locals lean more progressive or conservative and a business shares political thoughts that run counter to that prevailing mentality, it could be exposing itself to fallout, says University of Wisconsin marketing professor Thomas O’Guinn. Be sincere: Be true to who you are and offer sincere thoughts, advises Chicago jeweler Brian Leber. People will sniff out commentary fueled more by marketing surveys than genuine sentiments. Exercise discretion: Most people respect earnest viewpoints expressed with reason and respect. “Exercise tact and social appropriateness,” Leber says. Focus on delivery: Ditch the name-calling and fingerpointing. “How you deliver the message is often as important as the message itself,” O’Guinn says. Test the message: Before broadcasting political thoughts, informally solicit reactions. “Be thoughtful and reflective,” O’Guinn urges.

Elephant brooch in gold and platinum with 18.52 cts. round, 1.4 cts. t.w. pear-shape, 1.31 cts. t.w. baguette, 0.1 ct. t.w. round yellow, and 1.26 cts. t.w. half-moon diamonds; price on request; Oscar Heyman; 212-593-0400; oscarheyman.com

guy and I am not afraid to let my opinions be known,” says Fixler, whose store sits 25 miles outside of Manhattan in an area that leans largely to the political left. In the run-up to the 2016 presidential election, in fact, Fixler leased a nearby 750-squarefoot storefront and built a pop-up Donald Trump headquarters. He personally created Trump gear and distributed more than 50,000 Trumppromoting products, including lawn signs, fliers, caps, and T-shirts. While shoppers from out of the area did not necessarily connect the Trumpchampioning storefront to the neighboring jewelry shop, Fixler says locals knew he was behind the effort. “I know I was potentially putting my livelihood on the line, but my country comes before my livelihood,” says Fixler, a former U.S. Marine who collected $10,000 in donations at his Trump headquarters that he then passed along to Hope for the Warriors, a nonprofit that provides assistance to U.S. service personnel wounded in action. Last August, meanwhile, the New York City–based jewelry firm Lady Grey Instagrammed a handwritten note that owners Jill Martinelli and Sabine Le Guyader sent to Ivanka Trump alongside her order of ear cuffs. The note thanked her for her order before noting that proceeds from the sale would be directed to a few progressive causes, including Hillary Clinton’s presidential campaign. Lady Grey’s post generated thousands of comments and major headlines, some praising the move and others condemning it. “While we were flattered to receive an order from Ivanka Trump, our social and political views couldn’t be further from those of the Trump campaign,” Martinelli told New York magazine. Near Atlanta, Dunwoody Diamonds USA owner Bruce LeVell gained notoriety during the 2016 presidential election as head of the National Diversity Coalition for Trump. Following the election, LeVell, a former county Republican Party chair, entered the race for Georgia’s 6th District seat. He told the Atlanta Journal-Constitution in February that he was running for Congress to be “President Trump’s strongest ally on Capitol Hill in making his America first agenda a reality.” The story noted that LeVell owned a jewelry store in Dunwoody, but did not mention the business by name. “But it’s not hard to put two and two

together,” acknowledges LeVell, who insists on keeping his 6-year-old store’s public image, including its social media feeds, strictly apolitical. “I’m going to control what I can control.” Years ago, a small business sharing its political viewpoints so openly would have been taboo, but the winds are shifting, says University of Wisconsin marketing professor Thomas O’Guinn. Amid a less private culture and a more politicized public, businesses big and small are increasingly being challenged to take a stand and join the discussion. “There used to be a simple rule about small businesses getting involved with politics: Don’t do it. Now, it’s layered and it depends on other factors, including your clientele and public opinion,” O’Guinn says. “I wouldn’t say small businesses are totally free to share their political viewpoints, but they are much freer than they used to be.” For any small business broadcasting its political thoughts, the danger is potentially alienating customers. Basketball and branding icon Michael Jordan once allegedly quipped, “Republicans buy sneakers, too.” The same, of course, is true of jewelry. “I’m not one for mixing business and politics,” Boston-based public relations mentor Robin Samora says. “As a small-business owner, I don’t want to limit my customer base or alienate any audience out there.” Yet, Samora allows, speaking to a political issue could also attract customers who not only want to buy jewelry but also want to bond with a retailer’s values. To that point, Fixler says business at Barry’s Estate Jewelry jumped about 25 percent during the 2016 election cycle. “I’ve had people tell me, ‘You are now my jeweler,’ ” Fixler says, adding that positive responses to his business have outweighed negative reactions 20 to 1. Still, showcasing your politics can be precarious, particularly in an industry as face-to-face as jewelry retail and with social media’s ability to spread commentary within seconds. Before touting a particular political viewpoint, O’Guinn advises small-business owners to consider their marketplace and customers and, most important, why they feel compelled to speak out. “Is it because you feel it’s vital to your role as a citizen or are you doing it to be showy and preaching to the choir?” O’Guinn asks. “When you have a divisive, partisan issue, you could be cutting off your nose to spite your face when it wasn’t necessary.” O’Guinn’s bottom line: “Feel free to speak up, but be careful out there and don’t assume there’s no risk because there most certainly is.”

SIGNS: DANNY JOHNSTON/AP

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ver seven steamy days in June, JCK Las Vegas and its sister show, LUXURY, command the jewelry industry spotlight. This year, showgoers must contend with a later-than-usual start (due to the Jewish Shavuot holiday) and a different date pattern. But fret not: To help ease the way, we’ve created a fun cheat sheet to the daily happenings. From Friday, June 2, through Thursday, June 8, here are all the events, talks, and trends you won’t want to miss. P.S. Don’t forget to hashtag it up! Tag your tweets and Instagrams with #JCKBound, #JCKLasVegas, #LUXURYbyJCK, #JCKTalks, and #JCKRockstheBowl to stay in touch. —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

June 2 / 6–8 p.m. Clink glasses—featuring diamond-shape ice cubes, no less!—with your fellow allaccess badge holders during happy hour at Libertine Social in Mandalay Bay as “modern mixologist” Tony Abou-Ganim helps you wind down from LUXURY day one.

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8:30–10 a.m.

Kathy Ireland, chair, CEO, and chief designer of Kathy Ireland Worldwide, delivers a keynote breakfast presentation (South Seas ballroom, Level 3) that traces her journey from supermodel to supermogul.

June 2 / 10 a.m. LUXURY opens for business with—what else?—trays of passed Bellinis. Discover upand-coming designers including Basch & Co., BM Designs, GuitaM, Joon Han, Ed Levin, and Lindsey Scoggins in the show’s New Designer area, located in the Oceanside ballroom. Enjoy complimentary tea in the Mandalay ballroom. Peruse the high-end goods at Prestige. And bask in brand heaven at one of four private ballrooms commandeered by Tacori (pictured), Forevermark, Scott Kay, and Michael M. Cheers to a fantastic show!

New York Times best-selling author and neuroscientist Robert Cooper draws on groundbreaking research to help retailers connect with prospective customers. At his breakfast keynote, “The New Neuroscience of Reinventing Retail and Doubling Sales,” (South Seas ballroom, Level 3), learn how simple shifts in language, tactics, and mind-set can grow your business. Heady stuff!

Las Vegas may not strike you as the most obvious place to get your fitness on, but Jewelers for Children’s fifth annual Rings of Strength event provides an unbeatable incentive. Cycle 50K through scenic Red Rock Canyon, bike a more moderate 15K, run a brisk 5K, or walk 5K along the Strip. Fundraising by participants helps support JFC’s numerous causes. Sign up at ringsofstrength.org for a bright-and-early start at Mandalay Bay.

June 4 / 8:30–10 a.m.

June 3 / 10 a.m.–12:30 p.m. 2:30–6 p.m.

Renowned for her up-close paintings of diamond facets, Angie Crabtree has become something of an unofficial artistin-residence in the gem trade. Watch her in action in the LUXURY ballroom, where she’ll be raffling off mini portraits each day.

The 2017 LUXURY Retailer of the Year will be unveiled at an awards ceremony in the South Seas ballroom. Learn the tricks of the luxury trade from the masters, and enjoy some breakfast while you’re at it!


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June 4 / 10 a.m.

Time starts ticking at LUXURY Watch, which opens today and runs through June 7. Take advantage of the lounge’s complimentary cappuccino cart to ensure you stay on track for the day’s appointments.

When we want to know how the trend winds are blowing, we look to New York City–based consultancy PSFK, known for offering some of the most compelling retail analysis around. See for yourself at “Multi-Generational Shopping Habits and Marketing Tips” (Tradewinds C/D), led by Scott Lachut, president of PSFK’s research and strategy division. June 4 / 3–3:45 p.m.

June 4 / 4–5 p.m. June 4 / 10–10:45 a.m. Decisions, decisions. The show is hosting two competing seminars that shed light on how to operate in an increasingly sophisticated marketplace: “How to Omni-Channel: Insights From the Industry’s Best” (Tradewinds A/B), led by Jack Gabriel, CEO of Gabriel & Co., and “Retailer Roundtable: Keys to Attracting Consumers” (Tradewinds E/F), with Dana Friedman, owner of Petite G Jewelers, and Dawn Hendricks, owner of Peridot Fine Jewelry. Whichever you choose, you can’t go wrong with these savvy presenters.

Throw back a drink (or five) at LUXURY cocktail hour in the Mandalay Bay, Oceanside, and Reef ballrooms. June 4 / 6:30–8:30 p.m.

June 4 / 2–2:45 p.m.

If you’re a research person, don’t miss “The Retail Revolution: Understanding Shifts in the Luxury Market” (Tradewinds C/D). The NPD Group’s Desiree Hanson and diamond industry analyst Edahn Golan are coming to Vegas armed with spreadsheets, graphs, and stats that shed light on what’s selling in watches, jewelry, and diamonds.

It wouldn’t be JCK Las Vegas without the Diamonds Do Good Awards. To join this year’s honorees—Helzberg Diamonds, former first lady of South Africa and Mozambique Graça Machel Mandela, and actor/social justice advocate David Oyelowo (pictured)—at the Four Seasons Hotel to support the Diamond Empowerment Fund’s mission of education empowerment for youth in global diamond communities, visit diamondsdogoodawards.org. No good deed goes uncelebrated!

SMOOTH OPERATORS We asked five JCK Las Vegas veterans: “What’s your fantasy jewelry market week?” Not surprisingly, they value getting things done in a timely manner—with a little Champagne to ease the way!

BOB WOOLSEY, owner, Jones Bros. Jewelers, Peoria, Ill. “My fantasy market week would be short, organized, and to the point. There are only so many vendors we need to see in Vegas. It would be great if we were able to only work with those.... I would love to fly in at 8 in the morning and leave the next night by 5 and get everything done efficiently. LUXURY has helped to do this for us, for sure.”

AMANDA GIZZI, director of PR and special events for Jewelers of America, president of the Women’s Jewelry Association New York Metro Chapter “My fantasy jewelry market week begins with a nonstop flight. My luggage comes around on the carousel when I arrive. The taxi line is nonexistent and my hotel room—complete with Strip views—is ready. I change and head straight to the shows. The floors are packed with buyers. New designer sections are mobbed with retailers looking for new talent, and they are willing to pay for the collections instead of expecting consignment. The energy on the floor is positive and retailers take that energy back to their customers, which leads to booming sales. Killer events are icing on the cake.”

DAVID OYELOWO AT THE FOREVERMARK-SPONSORED PREMIERE OF A UNITED KINGDOM; COCKTAIL: SHUTTERSTOCK; SALOMON: RACHEL HULIN; MOORE: DAVID EDWARDS/NEWSCOM; FOLLOWING PAGES: IPHONE: ANATOLII BABII/ISTOCK; DRINKS: GOODLIFESTUDIO/ISTOCK

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SMOOTH OPERATORS SUZANNE PRITSKER SALOMON, co-owner, Providence Diamond, Cranston, R.I. “My dream week would include a fresh smoothie bar, a cappuccino bar, a chocolate bar...and a shuttle with In-N-Out Burger would be good! You get the point—food makes me happy.”

KATIE DOMINESEY, industry vice president, JCK “As I step off the plane from my early arrival at McCarran International Airport, I discover that I have a new superpower for JCK this year: teleportation. That’s right: no more rushing from meeting to meeting, no more blisters on my ever-aching feet, no more running from the convention center to the hotel for a quick wardrobe change for the evening’s activities. I’d be able to go from place to place in a quick snap of my fingers, always looking poised (and extra moisturized, despite the desert climate), ready to meet and greet passionate industry members, and, hopefully, at my end-of-the-day teleportation, it includes a glass of Champagne! I’d need to face the fact that when the show was over, I’d have to relinquish my new favorite superpower.”

MANOS PHOUNDOULAKIS, sales specialist, Omi Privé “First off, after setup, a long stay at the pool…some chill music, good company, relaxed conversation about the state of our world. A moment to dream big, make plans, and envision our fantasy. Then a kickoff party to end all parties! The best people in the business—mind you, not influential or powerful, just the best of the best—great energy, and amazing tunes. Then, finally, seven days of realizing our dreams and making plans with our clients on how to fulfill them throughout the year. Then finally one more whole day at the pool...limited group, a massage or three, and a mellow trip home to the ones I love.”

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Pick up tips and tricks from stylist-to-the-stars Erica Cloud—who works with Sophia Bush, Lake Bell, and Mandy Moore (pictured)—at the “JCK Talks Trends” panel on the Showcase Stage (Bayside, Level 1). Each day, June 5–7, at 2 p.m., Cloud will tackle a different trend: big and bold, street style, and multigenerational—all using live models and jewels plucked right from the show floor. After the discussion wraps up, stick around for passed cocktails and networking.

ANNUAL

JCK Las Vegas

June 5 / 4–4:45 p.m.

BEGINS!

June 5 / 12–12:45 p.m.

Have you ever wondered what the American Gem Society is, and how it differs from other trade organizations? During today’s “Afternoon With the Associations” (Tradewinds C/D), learn how the nonprofit group of fine jewelry professionals promotes the most stringent standards of ethical conduct, educates its members, and stages a highly anticipated Conclave in a different city every year.

Marketing consultant Jennifer Spivak, aka “The Facebook Ads Girl” (pictured) reveals everything you ever wanted to know about Facebook advertising, but were too afraid to ask at this “Hands-on Social Media—Facebook” session on the Showcase Stage (Bayside, Level 1). Be sure to bring your tablet, smartphone, or laptop so you can learn by doing.

June 5 / 1–1:45 p.m.

June 5 / 10:30 p.m.

Rob Bates, JCK’s very own news director, dishes on “The State of Retail” on the Showcase Stage (Bayside, Level 1) at this informative session about the big-picture forces shaping the jewelry retail sector.

Close out the first day of JCK Las Vegas with a dance party at the appropriately named Jewel, a 24,000-square-foot nightclub at Aria Resort & Casino. Your JCK badge gets you complimentary and expedited entry until 1 a.m.


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June 7 / 1–2 p.m.

8:30–9:30 a.m.

See who among your fellow retailers is a designer jewelry maven at the annual Design Center Top 50 Retailer Awards breakfast (located at the convention center’s third-floor triangle space).

June 6 / 10:30–11:15 a.m.

Want to know which wedding traditions are trendy and which are passé? Attend the Bridal Industry Trends presentation (Showcase Stage, Bayside, Level 1) by Jeffra Trumpower of WeddingWire to get the scoop on ways to help engaged couples create the weddings of their dreams.

June 6 / 1–1:45 p.m.

In “How to Protect Your Store From Burglary, Robbery, and Theft” on the Showcase Stage (Bayside, Level 1), John J. Kennedy of the Jewelers’ Security Alliance offers practical advice to jewelers focused on staying safe and reducing losses.

June 6 / 4:30–5:30 p.m. Cocktails are appropriate at any hour in Sin City, but in the show floor lounges, happy hour happens at a more respectable time of day. Bring cash—drinks and light snacks will be available for purchase.

June 6 / 10:30 p.m.

Let’s dance! Omnia, the 75,000-square-foot neon-lit multilevel destination nightclub at Caesars Palace, is free for JCK badge-holders until 1 a.m.

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Want a glimpse of the next big technology to influence the jewelry industry? At the 2017 edition of “JCK Think Tank,” watch six vendors pitch their tech products and services on the Showcase Stage (Bayside, Level 1) to a panel of industry judges. Once the sevenminute presentations are complete, the audience votes to determine the winner.

June 7 / 4–4:45 p.m.

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Martin Rapaport (pictured), one of the trade’s best-known prognosticators, delivers his annual “State of the Diamond Industry” breakfast presentation in the South Seas ballroom (Level 3).

You’re an expert on Facebook and Instagram, but what about using other platforms to grow your business? The Smithee Group’s Ben Smithee gives you the lay of the social landscape in this informative “Hands-on Social Media—Twitter/LinkedIn” session on the Showcase Stage (Bayside, Level 1). Bring your devices—laptops, tablets, smartphones—to get the most out of the session.

June 7 / 6 p.m. June 7 / 9:30 a.m.–6 p.m. You’ve done your ordering for fall, but what about those last-minute summer sales needs? Hop the free shuttle to the Tropicana for JIS Exchange—the jewelry week incarnation of the popular Miami show—for all things cash-and-carry. Your JCK Las Vegas buyer badge gets you into the JIS show (and vice versa!), which runs through June 8.

If you can snag an invite to this year’s Le Vian Red Carpet Revue (Lagoon ballroom, Mandalay Bay), you’re in luck. The annual jewelry and fashion trend forecast is a cheat sheet to the jewelry colors and styles that will prevail in the year ahead.


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June 8 / 9:30 a.m.–4 p.m.

JUNE 9:30 a.m.–4 p.m.

The jewelry industry’s most important fundraising gala, the annual Jewelers for Children Facets of Hope dinner (South Seas ballroom), honors Forevermark US president Charles Stanley and JCK’s own Yancy Weinrich (pictured), senior vice president of the Reed Jewelry Group. Ticket information is available at jewelersforchildren.org.

June 7 / 8 p.m.

JCK’s traditional “Rocks the Beach” concert is transformed into a “Rocks the Bowl” night, thanks to its hot new venue: Brooklyn Bowl, at the Linq hotel on Las Vegas Boulevard, a short taxi ride from Mandalay Bay. Whether you’re prone to strikes or gutter balls, you can count on having a super Bowl. (To follow the action on social media, check out #JCKRockstheBowl.) [ Ticket required for admittance. Must be 21-plus to attend. On June 2 and June 4, get early access to tickets at the LUXURY concierge, one ticket per badge (limited availability). First come, first served. Badge and photo ID required for ticket pickup. No reentry allowed.]

If you haven’t already, take the escalator down to the South Pacific and Islander ballrooms at Mandalay Bay to the AGTA GemFair at JCK Las Vegas—aka gemstone heaven. You’ll find nearly 200 exhibitors of loose stones, strands, and finished jewelry in every color, shape, and size imaginable. Remember: Keep your eyes peeled for all shades of pink, cool blue combinations, and anything and everything green.

Every jeweler knows it takes more than great jewelry to run a successful retail operation. Discover exhibitors—including Yelp!—who offer everything from website design to customer relationship management solutions at the Retail Experience neighborhood, located near the Showcase Stage (Bayside, Level 1).

June 8 / 10:30 p.m.

June 8 / 9:30 a.m.–4 p.m.

JCK has teamed with the Jewelers’ Security Alliance on a new pavilion, located near the Showcase Stage (Bayside, Level 1) and populated by about 20 exhibitors—including Protective Technologies International, 3SI Security Systems, and FacialStats. com—offering security solutions for independent jewelers.

It’s the last night of JCK Las Vegas: Let loose at Hakkasan at the MGM Grand Hotel & Casino. Entrance is complimentary with your JCK badge until 1 a.m.

(p. 158) Diamond ear climbers: A.Link, alinkandco.com; arrow ring: Artistry, artistrylimited.com; Paraiba ring: Philip Zahm, philipzahm. com; pendant: Frey Wille, freywille.com; bangle and coiled ring: Nanis, nanis.it; colored stone earrings: Sutra, sutrajewels.com; (p. 159) green drop earrings: VTse, vtsejewelry.com; (p. 160) watch: Wenger, wenger.ch; (p. 161) pendant: Melissa Spencer, spencerfinejewelry.com; ring: Mira Style, mirastyle.us; (p. 162) ring: Sylvie, sylviecollection.com; earrings: Bounkit, bounkit.com; (this page) indicolite ring: Akiva Gil, akivagil.com; topaz ring: Philip Zahm


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Desire

Fulfilled

The Endless Aisle has arrived with Sarine Connect TM. Imagine a world of retail sales without limits. Search, sort and present from your entire inventory of diamonds and jewelry at point of sale, in seconds. Meet every customer’s desires with a multitude of options never before possible. Until now. Cloud-based app available 24/7 • All types of diamonds, gemstones and jewelry • Customizable for your brand Boost your inventory with virtual stock • In-depth Sarine Profile TM diamond information, instantly

See us at JCK Booths L-118 and L-202. Visit sarine.com or call +1-646-727- 4286 to set a meeting. Download free Sarine Connect TM and Sarine ProfileTM demo apps at the Apple App Store and Google Play.


167

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JUNE 2017

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault

THE GREEN CARPET In 2013, Chopard began

FAB FIVE Five of the gems cut from the Queen of Kalahari weigh more than 20 cts. each, including a round diamond that totals some 50 cts. “Each of these gems is of absolute color and purity,” Scheufele says. “And each of the main stone cuts—cushion, brilliant, heart, emerald, and pear—is represented.”

promoting ethical mining and transparency through its supply chain to ensure its jewelry production is sustainable. The Queen of Kalahari, while not sourced from a fair trade– certified mine, comes with more assurances than most large stones. “The ultimate luxury is knowing how the piece has been produced,” Scheufele says.

GIRL ON FILM Chopard produced a documentary about the Queen of Kalahari, tracing its journey to market. The film, which premiered Jan. 21 at Paris’ Théâtre du Châtelet, contains one part that makes Scheufele a little uneasy: “When the diamond starts getting cut by the laser, oof, it’s like we’re destroying it.”

GARDEN OF DESIRE

ACTRESS CHARLIZE THERON wore these remarkable diamond earrings by Chopard to the Oscars in February. But that’s the least interesting part of their story. The mismatched danglers feature a 26 ct. heart-shape diamond and a 25 ct. pear shape belonging to a suite of 23 gems cut from a single 342 ct. piece of rough. Discovered at the Karowe mine in Botswana in 2015, the flawless type IIa diamond—nicknamed the “Queen of Kalahari”—seduced Caroline Scheufele, copresident of the Geneva-based brand, who created the lace-inspired Garden of Kalahari collection using its spectacular yield. Talk about storytelling at its finest.

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

JCKONLINE.COM


THE VAULT

GOLD

1)2l7.);)06= Tiny Hearts collection earrings in 18k gold with diamonds, $3,200, station necklace in 18k gold with diamonds, $11,000, and pendant necklace in 18k gold, $2,600; Gumuchian; 212-593-9888; gumuchian.com

1%88)67

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

HEART OF THE MATTER Patricia Gumuchian is no stranger to heartache. The head designer for New York City–based Gumuchian watched her daughter Katya endure two open-heart surgeries, 30 operations, 10 months in the pediatric intensive care unit, and seven cardiac arrests as a child before doctors at Columbia University Medical Center mended her broken heart. At a gala dinner honoring the 30th anniversary of the center’s Babies Heart Fund, Gumuchian, chair of the event, recounted Katya’s achievements. “She graduated valedictorian from her high school, went on to Harvard to earn a double degree, and is now dedicating her time working for a nonprofit,” Gumuchian said. “Of course, Columbia will always have a huge place in my heart.” This spring, the company is backing up those words with its Tiny Hearts collection of 18k gold rings, pendants, and bracelets featuring a heart motif. Partial proceeds will be donated to further the fund’s lifesaving work. —VICTORIA GOMELSKY

&

HOT STOCK TIP

SUNNY SIDE Los Angeles–based jewelry designer Amaya Jones debuted her eponymous collection last year with a handful of designs that celebrate the California sunshine. Her Triple Sun ring is poised to round out your selection of trendy, geometric-inspired gold styles and features a choice of four tourmaline colors: blue, green, pink, and this very radiant yellow. —EMILI VESILIND

18k rose gold ring with yellow tourmaline, $750, amayajones.com

THE PERFECTLY IMPERFECT TREND! SEE jckonline.com/topics/gold FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM


®

Discover a new approach to jewelry for a new century. Charles & Colvard creates the world’s most brilliant gem, while leading the way for environmentally responsible choices in the jewelry industry. Forever One™ moissanite is everything today’s informed consumer wants.

Visit us at JCK Las Vegas, Booth #B57004 For a complete list of authorized distributors, please visit: www.charlesandcolvard.com/trade-partners/authorized-dealers


THE VAULT

COLORED STONES

HOT STOCK TIP

6 mm Stone Charms in 10k yellow gold, $120, pagesargisson.com

CHARM’S WAY Perfect for mixing, matching, and swapping out when your mood (or outfit) changes, Page Sargisson’s Stone Charms provide sweet pops of color at an even sweeter price—just $120. (An acorn-shape version, with a bullet-cut gem, retails for $195.) The options—chrysoprase, turquoise, amethyst, to name just a few—are almost overwhelming, and Sargisson is already working on more. “I bought a ton of new stones in Tucson,” says the Brooklyn, N.Y.– based designer, “so I’ll be introducing star sapphires, geodes, malachite, opal, and labradorite.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

SWEET DREAMCATCHER Designers have long been inspired by the symbolism—both spiritual and visual—of dream catchers. Now, Audrius Krulis has put his own precious-metal spin on the Native American craft, with a floaty, feather-filled 28-piece-and-growing Dreamcatcher collection lit by such luminous gems as moonstone and tourmaline. “Moonstone and star sapphire, especially, have a dreamy, effervescent quality to them,” says Krulis, who’ll be showing at the Design Center at JCK Las Vegas. “If you try to catch the light, the magic disappears. But if you let it play, it comes to life.” Dream on! —MRB

THISTLE & BEE

®

NEW YORK

Sterling Silver & DiamonDS ClaSSiC eleganCe

Feathers 1 earrings with aquamarines and 0.03 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $6,400

Little Secrets pendant with 3.35 ct. cat’s-eye tourmaline and 0.11 ct. t.w. yellow diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $4,800

Fantasies 2 ring with purple sapphire in 18k yellow gold; $1,300; Audrius Krulis; info@ audriuskrulis.com; audriuskrulis.com

JEWELS FOR THE RUFFLED TREND! SEE jckonline.com/topics/coloredstones FOR THAT AND MORE.

251 W 39 St | New York, NY 888-288-2801 | thistleandbee.net

JCKONLINE.COM


Precious charms for precious memories.

Refresh Your Charm Display Today! Charms need to be shown to be sold, with Rembrandt Charms® Display Refresh Program you can give your current displays a new look and draw in more customers! We offer display refinishing, charm pad replacement and stock balancing to ensure your displays are in peak condition in time for the upcoming shopping season.

Inventory Controlled Displays Re-order only what you’ve sold to keep your display well stocked and looking new. A charm collection looks only as good as the display it’s shown in!

Best Selling Charms

Make

Rembrandt Charms® has the best selling charms merchandised by category and region. Be sure that you have the best charms for your store.

your current

Store Listing on Retail Locator The Rembrandt Charms® Retail Locator sends customers directly to your store through our website. Turn online shoppers into in-store sales.

displays new again!

Stock Balancing Rembrandt Charms® Stock Balancing keeps your charm collection re-stocked and up to date whenever you are running low.

No Rembrandt Charms® Display? Now is the perfect time to buy. Rembrandt Charms® offers a wide selection of charm displays perfect for retail jewelry stores. Every display includes the benefits of our Business Building Charm Program to help get the most out of your charms.

Sterling Silver & Karat Gold

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Contact Us Today For More Information on our Business Building Charm Program! p.800-828-7840 • f.800-828-7811 • Orders@RembrandtCharms.com • RembrandtCharms.com


THE VAULT

DIAMONDS Juliette necklace in 18k rose gold with diamonds; $5,850

CAN’T- MISS COLLECTION

PICTURE THIS IT DOESN’T GET much more meta than fine jewelry that incorporates realistic paintings of diamonds. But that’s exactly what Los Angeles–based jewelry designer Melissa Spencer has pulled off for a new collaboration with artist Angie Crabtree, whose paintings depict diamond facets enlarged more than 1,000 times. The collection of 18k gold and silver pendant necklaces, earrings, and rings from Spencer Fine Jewelry features miniatures of Crabtree’s facet paintings—each encased in a layer of translucent rocky crystal quartz and mother-of-pearl. The marriage of the real and the illustrated is nothing short of riveting. —EMILI VESILIND

Elle stud earrings in 18k rose gold; $3,100

TREE WAY The jagged curves and uneven textures of bare tree branches inspired a handful of Canadian designer Neeta Gupta’s latest diamond-studded styles. Each elegant sterling silver piece pairs wood-inspired forms with raw diamonds in 18k yellow gold bezel settings. This is our kind of natural beauty. —EV

SYLVIE’S DECADE OF DIAMONDS! SEE jckonline.com/ topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE.

Renae ring in 18k rose gold, $2,200; Spencer Jewelry; Fine Jewelry melissa@spencer finejewelry.com; spencerfine jewelry.com

HOT STOCK TIP

Sterling silver earrings with raw sliced diamonds in 18k yellow gold bezels, $1,950, neetagupta.ca

JCKONLINE.COM


175

the industry authority

JUNE 2017

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz Peridot and tsavorite will undoubtedly be at the top of many AGTA GemFair shoppers’ lists in Las Vegas.

EARLY EDITION COURTESY OF AGTA STOCK PHOTOGRAPHY COLLECTION

The AGTA GemFair Las Vegas opens a day before the JCK show, giving buyers plenty of time to cherry-pick BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

N

OWHERE IS THE phrase You snooze, you lose more fitting than at a gem show, where a wide selection of fine, one-of-a-kind stones rewards the earliest of birds. Keep that in mind at JCK Las Vegas this month. The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) GemFair Las Vegas opens in the South Pacific and Islander ballrooms of the Mandalay Bay Convention Center June 4, one day before the rest of the show, precisely so that buyers are relieved of competing distractions. GemFair runs through June 8. “Our first day in Las Vegas is always killer,” says AGTA CEO Doug Hucker. “You can’t talk to anybody—there’s lots of action taking place.” This year, the buzz will center on one very obvious category of color: “With Greenery being the Pantone color of the year, people are looking at JCKONLINE.COM

greens,” Hucker says. “Peridot’s going to be good, and tsavorite. But I see emerald benefiting the least of all the green stones—there’s not as much production and it’s more expensive.” Other topics on the gem trade’s collective agenda include a new blue sapphire find in Madagascar and growing demand for sustainable products. For more on the latter, don’t miss “The Supply Chain for Colored Gemstones: Challenges and Opportunities,” a panel discussion about transparency in the gemstone trade moderated by Cecilia Gardner, former president, CEO, and general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee. The panel, which takes place on June 5 (1–1:45 p.m., Tradewinds C/D), features Hucker speaking alongside representatives of the mining company Gemfields and the Responsible Jewellery Council.


177

the industry authority

JUNE 2017

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME PHOTO FINISH

And the best smartphone camera on the market is…

DIGIHELION/GETTY

W

BY EMILI VESILIND

HEN BR ANDS FIRST began embracing social media as a marketing tool, the bar for photography was almost nonexistent—just having a presence on the networks was enough to get people to follow your feed. Fast-forward a few years, and the bar for photographic quality is skyhigh. Brands hitting it big on social media are almost exclusively posting professional-quality photographs. Thankfully, technology is on the side of the small retailer/brand in this arena. The cameras embedded in many of the latest mobile phones rival, or even surpass, the photographic quality found in high-end point-and-shoot cameras—and in good lighting can even be as effective as traditional DSLR cameras (the kind pros use) in producing sharp, beautiful images. After polling a few professional photographers, and poring over reviews from trusted technology outlets, we’ve rounded up the latest phones that feature the best cameras. Upgrade to one of these and kiss your photo-quality issues goodbye!

IPHONE 7 & IPHONE 7 PLUS

Apple is very proud of the camera in its newest iPhones—and it should be. It produces ultra-crisp, well-lit images, even in low lighting, thanks to a large aperture that allows for lots of light—and a proprietary sensor that helps the lens counteract even the tiniest movement, so there’s less blur. Micah Baird, a lifestyle photographer in Los Angeles, says the portrait mode “is an effective tool for shooting jewelry, due to its longer focal length, which provides less wide-angle distortion.” L.A.-based pro photographer Raquel Olivo calls it “without a doubt the best phone camera.” ($649–$769) JCKONLINE.COM

HUAWEI P9

This Chinese-designed and -manufactured phone features two camera lenses sitting side by side on the phone’s back side— both engineered by German camera maker Leica. One of the cameras features a full-color RGB lens, while the other works in conjunction with the main lens, pulling precious extra light into the dual sensors with every snap. The advanced system can result in stunningly detailed, vividly hued images. ($472.99)

SAMSUNG GALAXY S7 & SAMSUNG GALAXY S7 EDGE Tech/gadget reporters routinely crown the camera in these Samsung phones the best on the market. For good reason: The 12-megapixel camera performs incredibly in underlit environments, perhaps because it features the widest aperture of any smartphone. The device also boasts a dual-pixel sensor—technology originally built for DSLR cameras. “The amount of detail pulled in from the phone’s camera is truly stunning,” says Colorado-based photographer John De Bord. ($429.99–$479.99)

GOOGLE PIXEL & GOOGLE PIXEL XL The first Google-branded smartphone features one of the best phone cameras—make that two cameras—on the market. The Android phone’s camera boasts an 8-megapixel “front” camera (for selfies and such) and a 12.3-megapixel “main” camera for everything else. Users laud its speedy shutter, naturalistic rendering, and ability to capture an enormous amount of detail in dim light— perfect for shooting at trade shows and evening events. ($649.99–$749.99)


TOOL TIME

THE GOODS

ONLINE.COM THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

STAY CONNECTED WITH

JCKONLINE.COM.

The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry. — JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

WITHINGS STEEL HR Few developers make more elegantly designed smartwatches than French wearable firm Withings, which was acquired by Nokia last summer. The brand’s latest wearable, the Steel HR, marries the classic good looks of its signature Activité watch with basic notifier functionality and activity tracking that boasts a high-tech heart rate monitor (hence the HR in the watch’s name). The watch also keeps tabs on sleep duration and quality, and can track the duration and intensity of more than 10 different fitness activities. —EV

What we liked: The watch face features a tiny, circular digital display that gives users info they really need: the name of the person texting/calling, how many calories the wearer has burned, heart rate, and how much time is left on that morning run. But it’s also easy to ignore, considering how handsome the actual analog watch face is.

What we didn’t like: We wish the watch came packaged with a leather wristband along with the sporty silicone band it’s anchored to; that would make the Steel HR more versatile. The Barenia leather band that pairs with the watch sells separately on withings.com for a not-exactly-cheap $80.

Best feature: The Steel HR is a fitness tracker that would also look smart with a three-piece suit—an altogether charming (and increasingly rare) combination in the wearables category. ($179.95; withings.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

RELIABLE ELECTRONIC PRODUCT SALES

ARE YOU STILL USING PINTEREST? SEE jckonline.com/topics/ technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

Thinking about adding digital tablets to your brand’s bag of sales tools? Newport Beach, Calif.–based GemFind, which creates digital products specifically for the jewelry industry, has partnered with marketing/advertising agency Harmon Group to create a slick new system for selling jewelry on an iPad. Called REPS (Reliable Electronic Product Sales), the easy-to-use tablet tool streamlines the sales process, simplifies customer relationship management by collecting consumer data that can be easily accessed, and can even increase order accuracy. “GemFind strives to be on the cutting edge of technology for the jewelry industry, and this new partnership with Harmon Group fits nicely with our lineup of jewelry apps and services,” says GemFind president Alex Fetanat. ($799 one-time onboarding fee—with access to training, online instructions, and IT support—then $59/month user licensing fee; gemfind.com) —EV JCKONLINE.COM

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

180

Shy Creation 650 S. Hill St., Suite 428 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Fax: 213-623-0860 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Premiering at JCK LUXURY, Shy’s latest—the Double Cigar Band/Ring. Elegantly set diamonds in two ascending bands. See the complete line from the Jewelers’ Choice Award Grand Prize winners at JCK LUXURY Booth LUX-1836.

Samuel B. 98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 234 S. Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 855-SAMUELB Fax: 516-466-1827 Email: info@samuelb.com Website: samuelb.com From our Bali Privé collection, these handcrafted Twisted Cable Bangles feature 18k hammered gold endcaps and are available in multiple widths and sizes. The Bali Privé collection is stocked, available for immediate delivery, and can be viewed on our online portal. Call today to become a Samuel B. brand partner.

Midas Chain 50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1150 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com This 14k yellow gold disc choker necklace can adjust to your customers’ size. The elegantly designed pieces in this collection will keep customers coming back for more because they look amazing layered as well. MSRP: $372

Americas Gold Americas Diamonds 650 S. Hill St., Suite 224 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-688-4904 Fax: 213-688-1504 Email: info@americasgold.com Website: americasgold.com Featuring two of our best sellers in men’s jewelry: fancy diamond men’s band in 14k yellow gold with 1.75 cts. t.w. diamonds, and six-sided men’s diamond ring in 14k yellow gold with 2.75 cts. t.w. diamonds.

JUNE 2017

Arpas A.S. 48 W. 48th St., Suite 505 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-869-5548 Fax: 212-391-0275 Email: info@arpasusa.com Website: arpas.com Manufacturer and exporter of fine gold jewelry, gold watches, and silver. Production in 8k, 9k, 10k, 14k, 18k, 21k, and 22k gold, gold and silver bonded, sterling silver. Exporting to 70 different countries. RJC Member

UBM Rotaforte International Fairs Inc. Molla Fenari Mah. Bab-i Ali Cad. No: 9 K: 3–4, Fatih 34120, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90 212 5190719 Fax: 90 212 5133038 Email: info-rotaforte@ubm.com Website: ubmrotaforte.com Istanbul Jewelry Show, as the No. 1 B2B jewelry trade fair in the region, offers unique opportunities to jewelry professionals from Europe to Near Asia, North Africa to CIS countries, the Middle East to North America.

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Earstuds USA

5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com Perfectly matched, stunning, fancy yellow radiant diamond earrings (VS1–VS2 clarity, 6.04 cts. t.w.). GIA certified. Set in 18k yellow gold.

D’Amico Manufacturing Co. Inc.

22 Lark Industrial Parkway, Unit C Greenville, RI 02828 Tel: 800-989-5520 Fax: 401-949-0029 Email: damicomfg@yahoo.com Website: damicomfg.com D’Amico Manufacturing offers the finest solid cross line on the market, with fixed bails and engravable pieces. Products made in USA; available in 14k yellow or white gold or rhodium-plated sterling silver. JCK Las Vegas Booth #B39158

Le Vian Couture®

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com Discover sweet Le Vian Couture® designs at JCK Las Vegas, including this elegant 18k Two-Tone Vanilla Gold® and Honey Gold™ ring featuring a 3.08 ct. round natural Chocolate Diamonds® center accented with 0.59 ct. t.w. of Vanilla Diamonds®.

JCKONLINE.COM


ARTISAN STERLING SILVER ARIVAFINEJEWELRY.COM

JCK BOOTH B14145 SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT 1-800-722-7028


PRODUCT

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184

Rahaminov Diamonds

606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Our stunningly beautiful, feminine, and one-of-a-kind movál ring accented with white kite-shape diamonds and round white diamond melee set in 18k white gold. Visit us at JCK LUXURY Booth LUX-921.

ELLE Time and Jewelry 18325 Waterview Parkway Dallas, TX 75252 Las Vegas, NV 89117 Tel: 469-221-0866 Fax: 214-637-8676 Email: sales@ellejewelry.com Website: ellejewelry.com

As a licensee of ELLE magazine, the world’s best-selling women’s fashion magazine, we make fashion accessible. Our jewelry enhances a woman’s individuality while featuring our signature created ruby trademark to symbolize a woman’s inner strength & beauty.

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. 308 Fu Hang Industrial Building, 1 Hok Yuen St. E. Hunghom, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 852-2363-2122 Fax: 852-2764-1328 Email: jewellery@peterlam.com.hk Website: peterlam.com.hk

Peter Lam Jewellery continues its outstanding craftsmanship and award-winning designs with its latest collections. We offer a wide range of contemporary and classic jewelry crafted with passion and remarkable attention to details. JCK Las Vegas Booth B51033

JUNE 2017

Estella J

2441 W. 205th St., Suite C204 Torrance, CA 90501 Tel: 855-558-8077 Email: info@estellaj.com Website: estellaj.com A combination of rose quartz, 14k rose gold, and pavé-set diamonds makes for gorgeous pieces! Estella J offers a variety of unique, elegant, and sophisticated fine jewelry designs, and every detail of each piece is handcrafted.

Martin Flyer

70 W. 36th St. New York, NY 10018 Tel: 800-223-0330 Email: sales@martinflyer.com Website: martinflyer.com “The Quality You Expect, the Personal Service You Deserve.” For more than 70 years, this has remained a cornerstone of our focus, through three generations of outstanding service, craftsmanship, and delivery of heirloom-quality jewelry at competitive prices.

Assael Inc.

589 Fifth Ave, Suite 1154 New York, NY 10017 Tel: 212-819-0060 Fax: 212-764-1965 Email: info@assael.com Website: assael.com Assael is North America’s foremost purveyor of rare South Sea and akoya pearls. From classic strands to sophisticated pearl and gemstone jewelry, the name Assael ensures a passionate commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and serving our retailers.

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

Rembrandt Charms

370 S. Youngs Road Williamsville, NY 14221 Tel: 800-828-7840 Fax: 800-828-7811 Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Website: rembrandtcharms.com Keep your bead bracelet customers! Rembrandt Charms will help you convert them back into charm bracelet customers. CharmDrops® slide onto bead or leather bracelets and hold up to three charms.

Triton

Frederick Goldman Inc. 154 W. 14th St. New York, NY 10011 Tel: 800-221-3232 Fax: 800-322-9344 Email: tritonsales@fgoldman.com Website: tritonjewelry.com Triton, the Original Metal Ring, is built on technological and design innovation—creating high-tech, high-style, yet accessible collections. Using cutting-edge materials and construction, Triton is for the man who demands performance coupled with great style.

Stuller Inc.

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller is your go-to diamond supplier and offers the very best and widest selection in large diamonds, melee, and unique items such as lab-grown diamonds, CanadaMark™ diamonds and melee, and special order services.

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

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188

Luvente Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 888-726-7827 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com

31-00 47th Ave., Second Floor Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 212-730-1003 Fax: 646-807-4489 Email: info@luvente.com Website: luvente.com

This vintage-style engagement ring is designed to hold a 0.50–0.75 ct. round and cushion center stone. Ring: 0.65 ct. t.w., $2,700; band: 0.45 ct. t.w., $1,800 (Style R12456). Available as non-halo setting (Style R11144).

Our jewelry encapsulates the unique moments that define your life. These are the stories that you live to share with smiles, laughter, and sometimes tears. These are your moments. Commemorate them with Luvente. Style R01877-RD.R. MSRP: $2,950. 1.09 cts. t.w.

El Dorado Jewelry Inc.

AeroDiamonds

550 S. Hill St., Suite 1495 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 213-689-4406 Fax: 586-620-6756 Email: eldoradojewelry@yahoo.com Website: eldoradojewelry.com

10 W. 46th St., 19th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-616-7665 Fax: 212-616-7666 Email: jacqueline@aerodiamonds.com Website: aerodiamonds.com

For 2017, El Dorado Jewelry presents fashion-forward fine jewelry set with SI-quality diamonds. Front and back earrings, ear climbers, threaders, Y necklaces, and outline initial studs and charms. A must-have for every retail store!

“We love our diamonds…so we set them free!” Befitting today’s modern lifestyle, AeroDiamonds Sweet Sixteen fringe necklace in 18k rose gold and platinum. Made in New York. Designed by Jacqueline Yu Earle. Price upon request.

Costar Imports Inc.

JYE Luxury Collection 101 Utah St., Suite 101 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-621-8880/866-633-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com JYE’s stones are meticulously selected before the design process begins. Taking the stones’ character and nature into account, a design is formed around the stone, ensuring the piece performs at its best and brightest.

JUNE 2017

AGS Laboratories 8917 W. Sahara Ave. Las Vegas, NV 89117 Tel: 877-367-0288 Email: support@agslab.com Website: agslab.com The American Gem Society Laboratories is the industry’s only nonprofit lab that is committed to consumer protection by providing reports based on the highest standards of diamond grading, with consistency and accuracy based on science.

JCKONLINE.COM


LIGHTING

4DIAMONDS

LIGHTI G, SHOWCASES & I STORE D

RTS

LIGHTING

SHOWCASES

IN-STORE DESIGN

Specializing in LED technology that cuts energy cost and makes your jewelry come alive.

Custom-designed using our new Italian-made material that reduces costs and never fades, chips or cracks.

We plan out and design every detail to create your dream store with your clientele in mind.

MADE IN THE

USA

Visit Us at Booth #B63049 at the Essentials & Tech Pavilion Financing Available 10884 SW 188th Street Miami, FL 33157 786-250-0007 | FOLLOW US Español hablado aquí. Lighting4Diamonds.com




ambermart 18 ńINTERNATIONALńAMBERńFAIR th

PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

31.08–02.09.2017 Gńńńńńńńńńńńńń ńmbermńrt.pń

Ovadia Corporation Ovadia Corporation 101 E. Main St. Little Falls, NJ 07424 Tel: 973-256-9200 Email: sales@ovadia.com Website: ovadia.com Ovadia’s Discovery trays offer elegant, durable jewelry presentation for travel, retail, and understock. Interchangeable Oro-Lite pads offer unlimited display options. Trays are stackable and can have custom signage and be covered in fabric, genuine wood veneer, and more. Deeper trays available for higher pieces..

Effy Jewelry 15 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 855-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com Effy goes back to black with this trend-driving, Caviar collection ring. Black and white diamonds fluidly accentuate 14k white gold, creating a statement piece that is all drama and details.

amberif 21–24.03.2018 21–24.03.2018 ńmberif.pń

Lashbrook 131 E. 13065 S. Draper, UT 84020 Tel: 888-252-7388 Fax: 801-352-7236 Email: marketing@lashbrookdesigns.com Website: lashbrookdesigns.com

fashion: Atelier Słoma & Trymbulak | jewellery: Jan Pomianowski

organisation

Today’s customers expect more. We love that! At Lashbrook, we create custom and award-winning styles using precious and alternative metals, stones, and other exotic materials. Now you can give your customers exactly what they want.

venue Gdańsk International Fair Co.

Exhibition & Convention Center

JCKONLINE.COM


Discover the Best Deals on Rare Pieces from More than 100 Dealers

JULY 21-24 PHOTOS COURTESY OF RYAN AND RODNEY DIAMOND, INC., BETTERIDGE JEWELERS AND J.S. FEARNLEY

Opens 2 days before JA New York

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Stuller Inc. 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller is your go-to diamond supplier and offers the very best and widest selection in large diamonds, melee, and unique items such as lab-grown diamonds, CanadaMark™ diamonds and melee, and special order services.

American Gem Society 8881 W. Sahara Ave. Las Vegas, NV 89117 Tel: 866-805-6500 Fax: 702-255-7420 Email: lruggeroli@ags.org Website: ags.org The American Gem Society and AGS Laboratories are dedicated to consumer protection, ongoing gemological education, business ethics, and the highest standards of diamond grading. Visit us at JCK Las Vegas Booth L103, and at JCK Luxury Booth LUX-500.

The Royal Chain Group

Sophia by Design 457 Haddonfield Road, Suite 420 Cherry Hill, NJ 08002 Tel: 215-629-0260 Email: sales@sophiabydesign.com Website: sophiabydesign.com Sophia by Design has crafted fine jewelry for every occasion for over three decades. Through a dedication to excellence and a passion for style, Sophia by Design has stayed at the forefront of fashion trends.

Arpas A.S. 48 W. 48th St., Suite 505 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-869-5548 Fax: 212-391-0275 Email: info@arpasusa.com Website: arpas.com Manufacturer and exporter of fine gold jewelry, gold watches , and silver jewelry. Production in 8k, 9k, 10k, 14k, 18k, 21k, and 22k gold, gold and silver bonded, sterling silver. Exporting to 70 different countries. RJC Member

Artistry Ltd.

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com

8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com

The Angelica collection features over 1,300 bracelets and charms in recycled metals, offering core, fashion, and tween-focused products for every passion and preference. Retail starts at $39.

Classically designed rings in 14k white gold with 0.21 ct. t.w. diamonds and precious color. MSRP: blue sapphire, $1,500; emerald, $2,170; and ruby, $1,520

JUNE 2017

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We buy loose diamonds, breakouts and melee, including all sizes, shapes, qualities and quantities. We pay the highest prices because we recycle them! We offer a wide selection of calibrated melee, including Signature Ideal Cut, Harmony Recycled and Canadian Origin. CANADIAN ORIGIN

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Learn more about our comprehensive diamond services. Call 1.800.759.9997, ext. 164 or visit www.hooverandstrong.com


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Arch Crown Inc. 460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com

Effy Jewelry

Let the recipient know where her gift came from with custom tags and labels. Our tags and labels act as your most cost-effective advertising medium. JCK Las Vegas Booth B64056. Ask about our show specials!

What’s our favorite arrangement? The Effy Bouquet collection, of course! Perfectly shaped diamonds come together to create the illusion of a solitaire stone—ideal if you love intense sparkle, large stones, and reasonable price points.

Christopher Designs

TI SENTO — Milano

50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com

Lemelerbergweg 42 Amsterdam, the Netherlands, 1101AM Tel: 31-20-3428080 Fax: 31-20-6915901 Email: sales@tisento-milano.com Website: tisento-milano.com

Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side, the difference is truly clear.

Fashionable rhodium-plated sterling silver jewelry. All TI SENTO jewelry is designed in-house by its own TI SENTO designers. Pieces are made to gold jewelry standards, detailed to beautify and exceed expectations.

Sterling Reputation 10116 W. Oakland Park Blvd. Sunrise, FL 33351 Tel: 954-578-1880 Fax: 954-578-1414 Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Website: sterlingreputation.com Modern Queen’s collar design, handcrafted in 0.925 sterling silver with a genuine rhodium finish. Triple-key price is $149.

JUNE 2017

15 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 855-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com

Beverley K Collection 7777 Alvarado Road, Suite 719 La Mesa, CA 91942 Tel: 619-465-4789 Email: info@beverleyk.com Website: beverleyk.com Beverley K celebrates intricate detail work, vintage elegance, and oldworld craftsmanship. Our timeless collection embodies the quintessence of Art Deco aesthetics, enduring grace, and beauty. With each unique piece begins a tale, expressed through every subtlety.

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Almor Design

98 Cutter Mill Road, Suite 125 Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 516-482-8030 Fax: 516-482-0259 Email: info@almordesign.com Website: almordesign.com instagram.com/almordesigninc Manufacturers of natural fancy colored diamond fashion and bridal jewelry. GIA-certified blue, pink, yellow, green, and multicolored diamond pieces, including a vast array of mountings with natural pink diamond settings. JCK LUXURY Booth LUX-437

Australian Diamonds

Website: australiandiamondstory.com Australian DiamondsTM have a unique story, an extraordinary journey from a remarkable birthplace. Consumers can have confidence that their diamonds, responsibly sourced and tracked from the Argyle Diamond Mine, are natural, authentic, and uniquely Australian.

Andréa Candela

Email: info@andreacandela.com Website: andreacandela.com Identifiable by their unique armadillo finish and rope-edge design, Andréa Candela’s pieces use 18k gold and sterling silver accented with genuine gemstones and diamonds to bring old-world craftsmanship to today’s fashion-forward woman.

JCKONLINE.COM


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198

Allure Gems LLC 1212 Avenue of the Americas New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-750-5070 Fax: 212-750-5072 Email: info@alluregems.com Website: alluregems.com Allure Gems specializes in bridal jewelry, featuring stunning textures, shapes, and styles. Visit us to learn more about our products and collections.

Phillip Gavriel 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Website: phillipgavriel.com The new Italian Cable collection takes root in ancient Rome, where metal was twisted together to create the first pieces of jewelry, and continues with these pieces, all handcrafted in Italy. Retail starts at $150.

Kindred Keepsake Jewelry 5246 Olympic Drive NW Gig Harbor, WA 98335 Tel: 877-265-7994 Fax: 253-514-8473 Email: service@kindredkeepsake.com Website: kindredkeepsake.com Kindred is a world-leading supplier of personalized and specialized jewelry available in stainless, sterling, 14k solid yellow gold, solid white gold, and platinum. Offering actual fingerprint, baby footprint, baby handprint, pet paw print, photo, and cremation jewelry.

Rahaminov Diamonds 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2018 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Email: melanie@rahaminov.com Website: rahaminov.com Rahaminov Diamonds’ timeless and exceptional oval bangle set in 18k white gold. Visit us at JCK LUXURY Booth LUX-921.

Ashi Diamonds Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

JUNE 2017

18 E. 48th St., 14th floor New York, NY 10017 Tel: 800-622-2744 Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Website: ashidiamonds.com Ashi Diamonds is excited to unveil its 2017 Bridal Book:  Elegance Redefined. Ashi’s bridal line caters to every bride’s hunt for the Perfect One for Her. Ashi’s designs capture the details that will truly set her apart. For more information, please call or visit our website.

JCKONLINE.COM


More than meets the eye

Discover trends. Be inspired. Make connections

3 -5 SEPTEMBER 2017 | OLYMPIA LONDON IJL delivers year round inspiration, innovation, education and new business opportunities. Source new ranges face-to-face in the unique trading environment of Olympia, London.

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200

Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang Co. Ltd. No. 270 Caoxi Road Shanghai, China 200235 Tel: 86-21-64833388 Fax: 86-21-64706366 Email: lfxscb@126.com Website: laofengxiang.com All our enamel bracelets are created with sophisticated material and superb craftsmanship. Our reasonable pricing and distinctive style have garnered attention, locally and around the world, placing a new generation of precious metal fashion accessories on the market.

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured is a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

Thomas Sabo TSJ America Corp. 28 W. 44th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-520-4972 Email: salesusa@thomassabo.com Website: thomassabo.com Follow us on a journey. The latest collection from Thomas Sabo heralds the arrival of the color, pattern, and shapes of Africa. Discover, with us, a true passion for and excellence in handcrafted jewelry.

CrownRing Montreal Tel: 866-214-7464 Email: info@crownring.com Website: crownring.com CrownRing Bridal House is a name that has come to represent excellence in bridal jewelry. Under this label rest four defining brands: CrownRing, Carlex, Torque, and Noam Carver. CrownRing and its divisions continue to lead the pace by creating award-winning and captivating jewelry.

JCKONLINE.COM


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Dabakarov

MARIKA Desert Gold

Exceptional is our standard.

MARIKA TLV Tel Aviv Urban collection. Young and contemporary, a new, exciting collection that symbolizes the city of Tel Aviv.

Allison-Kaufman Co.

Hoover & Strong

Three dazzling rows of yellow diamonds set in 14k yellow gold and accented by white diamonds in 14k white gold. Available in earrings, rings, and necklaces.

Hoover & Strong has a brand-new catalog! Over 500 new bands including classic, fancy, two-tone, multi-toned, and diamond band styles! All made in America with Harmony recycled precious metals! Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our new products.

62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com

P.O. Box 12638 Hertzlia, Israel 4673315 Tel: 972-9-8854007 Email: office@mijbymarika.com Website: marikadesertgold.com

7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 818-373-5100/800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

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ENAMEL BRACELET $OO WKH HQDPHO EUDFHOHWV DUH FUHDWHG ZLWK VRSKLVWLFDWHG PDWHULDO DQG VXSHUE FUDIWVPDQVKLS7KULH UHDVRQDEOH SULFLQJ DQG GLVWLQFWLYH VW\OH KDYH JDUQHUHG DWWHQWLRQ ERWK ORFDOO\ DQG DURXQG WKH ZRUOGSODFLQJDQHZJHQHUDWLRQRISUHFLRXVPHWDOIDVKLRQDFFHVVRULHVRQWKHPDUNHW WWW.LAOFENGXIANG.COM SHANGHAI LAO FENG XIANG CO., LTD. NO.270 CAOXI RDSHANGHAICHINA TEL: +8621 64833388 585 FIFTH AVENUE , NEW YORK, NY 10017 TEL:212.644.4168 WWW.LFXJEWELRY.COM 1016 ALBERNI ST. Vancouver, BC V6E 1A6 TEL:604.629.9688 WWW.LFXJEWELRY.CA No. 60 CASTLEREAGH STREET, SYDNEY TEL: +61292390088


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Sarine North America Inc.

S. Kashi 175 Great Neck Road, Suite 204 Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 800-775-2744 Email: info@skashi.com Website: skashi.com Exquisite designs, top-notch workmanship, and excellent customer service are the foundation of S. Kashi. Discover our world of magnificent jewelry at skashi.com.

50 W. 47th St., Suite 1008 IGT Building New York, NY 10036 Tel: 646-727-4286 Fax: 646-727-4301 Email: info@sarineus.com Website: sarine.com Sarine presents the Sarine Profile™ digital diamond display tool and the Sarine Connect™ inventory search and presentation app, a powerful technology-based sales platform that offers instant access to a diamond’s unique story.

Find out how to get featured in Product Showcase. Contact your JCK sales representative today.

NEWS DAILY THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Fine Jewelry Displays

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934

Delivering the industry’s top stories to the inboxes of 18,500 professionals every day. — Original, not aggregated, content. — Immediate engagement with top decision-makers.

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3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com JCKONLINE.COM


Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere. We manufacture over 18,000 items in gold and sterling silver, all made in the USA. Visit our website or call for more info.

Gabriel & Co. 545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Our elegantly simple Demure Bracelets are essential in any wardrobe. Their secure fit offers maximum comfort, while their flexibility makes them a cinch to put on and take off. Wear them alone or pair them with other bracelets.

Unique Settings of New York 31-00 47th Ave., Second Floor Long Island City, NY 11101 Tel: 718-247-4500 Fax: 718-328-2167 Email: info@uniquesettings.com Website: uniquesettings.com These stylish and elegant pieces are from our Eternity Wedding Band collection. EWB498 (pink gold), MSRP: $950. 0.18 ct. t.w. EWB505 (yellow gold), MSRP: $1,794. 0.45 ct. t.w. EWB496 (white gold), MSRP: $1,014. 0.18 ct. t.w. EWB491 (white gold), MSRP: $2,043. 0.54 ct. t.w.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company 24 Jewelers Park Dr. Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com

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Colored Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Colored Diamond Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Neon Gems Inc. LUXURY LUX1032, LUX1334

Colored Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Julez Bryant

Diamond Jewelry $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Diamond Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS S10405, S10405B

Diamond Jewelry Over $10,000 Norman Silverman Diamonds LUXURY LUX1127

Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry Under $1,000 Lafonn THE BRIDGE B13155

Lab-Grown Diamond and/or Gemstone Jewelry Over $1,000 Chatham PLUMB CLUB PC110

Pearl Jewelry $2,500 & Under Belle Étoile THE BRIDGE B14155

Pearl Jewelry $2,501–$10,000 Alamea Hawaii LLC THE BRIDGE B12171

Gold Jewelry $2,500 & Under Jye’s International Inc. LUXURY LUX1011

Gold Jewelry Over $2,500 Messika

Silver Jewelry Under $500 Frank Reubel Designs BRIDAL B59047

Silver Jewelry $501–$1,000 Breuning PLUMB CLUB PC120

Silver Jewelry Over $1,000 Meredith Marks

Pearl Jewelry Over $10,000 Maui Divers Jewelry

Tanzanite Jewelry Under $10,000 C. Krishniah Chetty & Sons Pvt. Ltd.

Contemporary Metal Jewelry Under $1,000 Malo Creations BRIDAL B60019

Contemporary Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 ALOR

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,500 & Under

Tanzanite Jewelry Over $10,000

Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Siera Jewelry Inc. LUXURY LUX327

Colored Stone Jewelry $2,501–$10,000

Platinum Jewelry Under $10,000

Parade Design LUXURY LUX1121

Colored Stone Jewelry Over $10,000 Philip Zahm Designs AGTA GEMFAIR AGTA904

Michael Schofield & Co. AGTA GEMFAIR AGTA1100

Platinum Jewelry Over $10,000 Rahaminov Diamonds LUXURY LUX921

Mixed Metal Jewelry Under $1,000 Lika Behar Collection LUXURY LUX-P1828

Mixed Metal Jewelry Over $1,000 Lashbrook BRIDAL B60071

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Under $500 Elle Time and Jewelry PLUMB CLUB PC220


CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2017 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS FIRST PLACE WINNERS! Be sure to visit all the winners at this year’s JCK Las Vegas show.

Fashion/Bridge Jewelry Over $500

Best Earring Design Over $10,000

Best Necklace Design Over $10,000

Belle Étoile THE BRIDGE B14155

Christopher Designs LUXURY LUX1321

Neon Gems Inc. LUXURY LUX1032, LUX1334

Personalized Jewelry Under $1,000

Best Bracelet Design Under $2,500

Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Parlé Jewelry Designs LUXURY LUX1704

Men’s Jewelry Under $1,000

Best Bracelet Design $2,501–$10,000

Thorsten Jewelry BRIDAL B58053

Shy Creation LUXUXRY LUX1836

Men’s Jewelry Over $1,000

Best Bracelet Design Over $10,000

Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Price Point $500 & Under Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Price Point $501–$1,000 Parlé Jewelry Designs LUXURY LUX1704

Best Earring Design $2,500 & Under Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Earring Design $2,501–$10,000 Mira Style Jewellery Co. Ltd. LUXURY LUX1007 HONG KONG B44116

Martin Flyer LUXURY LUX1311

Best Ring Design Under $2,500 GRAND PRIZE WINNER Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Ring Design $2,501–$10,000 Gabriel & Co. CURRENTS S10405, S10405B

Best Ring Design Over $10,000

Best Bridal Design Under $2,500 Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Bridal Design $2,501–$5,000 Shy Creation LUXURY LUX1836

Best Bridal Design $5,001–$10,000 Kirk Kara LUXURY LUX1120

Best Bridal Design Over $10,000 Brilliant Earth

Best Statement Piece $10,000–$20,000 SAMIRA CURRENTS 10805

Best Statement Piece $20,001–$30,000 Christopher Designs LUXURY LUX1321

Brilliant Earth

Best Necklace Design Under $2,500 Majolie Collections FIRST LOOK B21159

Best Necklace Design $2,501–$10,000 Shy Creation $3,990 LUXURY LUX1836

Best Statement Piece Over $30,000 Omi Privé LUXURY LUX916


ADVERTISING

INDEX

208

AGS Laboratories pg. 149 Website: agslab.com AGTA pg. 20-21 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 204 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Allison Kaufman Company pg. 174 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908 Allure Gems pg. 179 Website: alluregems.com Toll-Free: 855-802-5070 Almor Design, Heskia pg. 65 Website: almordesign.com Email: info@almordesign.com Toll-Free: 800-437-5421

Artistry Ltd. pg. 62 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Ashi Diamonds pg. 27 Website: ashidiamonds.com Email: info@ashidiamonds.com Phone: 212-319-8391 Toll-Free: 800-622-ASHI Assael International Inc. pg. 33 Website: Assael.com Email: Katietravers@assael.com Phone: 212-819-0060 Fax: 212-764-1965 Belle Étoile pg. 96 Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Toll-Free: 877-838-6728

Arpas Gold Jewellery pg. 39 Website: arpas.com Email: info@arpasusa.com Phone: 212-869-5548 Artco Group pg. 176 Website: artcogroup.com Toll-Free: 877-222-7820

JUNE 2017

Effy pg. Gatefold cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY

Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 196 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333

Estella J pg. 185 Website: estellaj.com Email: info@estellaj.com Phone: 855-558-8077 Fax: 855-558-8077 Frey Wille pg. 151 Website: freywille.com

Jye’s International pg. 88 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880

G Panther pg. 46 Email: mailgpanther@aol.com Toll-Free: 888-430-4344

Korite pg. 92 Website: korite.com Toll-Free: 800-917-2228

Christopher Designs pg. 143 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970

Gabriel & Co. pg. 69 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400

Lashbrook pg. 91 Website: lashbrookdesigns.com/damascus Toll-Free: 888-252-7388

Continental Jewelry (USA) Inc. p. 172 Website: cjusa.com Email: sales@cjusa.com Phone: 212-695-3303 Toll-Free: 800-256-4286 Fax: 212-695-0997

GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

American Grown Diamonds pg. 41 Website: americangrowndiamonds.com Email: info@americangrowndiamonds.com Phone: 212-575-3057

Ariva/Pranda pg. 183 Website: arivafinejewelry.com Email: Debra@prandana.com Phone: 401-490-5100 Fax: 401-946-2109

JTR Jewellery Exporters’ Association pg. 10-11 Website: jtr.org.tr Email: info@jtr.org.tr

Charles & Colvard pg. 169 Website: charlesandcolvard.com Email: sales@charlesandcolvard.com Toll-Free: 800-210-4367

American Gem Society pg. 73 Website: ags.org Email: membership@ags.org Toll-Free: 866-805-6500

Angelica by Royal Chain p. 103 Website: angelicacollection.com Phone: 800-622-0690

Earstuds USA pg. 186 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883

Future Designs Lighting pg. 202 Website: futuredesigns.us Email: futuredesigns1@hotmail.com Toll-Free: 800-326-4256

Amberif pg. 190 Website: ambermart.pl

Andréa Candela pg. 155 Website: andreacandela.com Toll-Free: 888-314-5998

JIS Show pg. 24-25, 61 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612

Kindred Keepsake Jewelry pg. 145 Website: kindredkeepsake.com Email: service@kindredkeepsake.com Phone: 253-432-3882 Toll-Free: 877-268-3009 Fax: 253-514-8473

Beverley K pg. 165 Website: beverleyk.com Email: info@beverleyk.com Phone: 619-465-4789

americas Gold | americas Diamonds pg. 63 Website: americasgold.com Email: info@americasgold.com Toll-Free: 800-621-3618

Downeast Trading pg. 200 Website: downeasttrading.com Email: downeast@sover.net Toll-Free: 800-626-5700

Costar Imports pg. 48 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR CrownRing pg. 173 Website: crownring.com Email: info@crownring.com Phone: 514-381-1589 Toll-Free: 866-214-7464 Dabakarov pg. 4-5 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888 Diama Jewelry pg. 31 Website: diamajewelry.com Email: customerservice@diamajewelry.com Phone: 844-533-4262

Hoover & Strong pg. 193 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997 International Jewellery London pg. 199 Website: jewellerylondon.com Intuitions by Royal Chain pg. 101 Website: intuitionsjewelry.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 JA New York pg. 181 Website: ja-newyork.com JCK Events pg. 74-75, 85, 178, 204 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 8-9, 71 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411

Lighting 4 Diamonds pg. 189 Website: lighting4diamonds.com Email: info@lighting4diamonds.com Toll-Free: 855-326-6645 Lorenzo Jewelry Limited pg. 18-19 Website: ljintl.com Email: sales@ljintl.com Phone: +852 2764 3622 Fax: +852 2764 3783 MARIKA Desert-Gold pg. 6-7 Website: marikadesertgold.com Email: guy@mijbymarika.com Phone: 972-9-8854007 Martin Flyer pg. 29 Website: martinflyer.com Email: info@martinflyer.com Phone: 212-840-8899 Midas pg. 12-13 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

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Mioro pg. 47 Website: miorogold.com Email: info@miorogold.com Phone: 212-302-6077 Fax: 212-302-6018 Mira Style Jewellery Company Limited pg. 197 Website: estore.mirastyle.com Email: info@mirastyle.com Phone: 213-622-5233 Fax: 213-622-5549

Roberto Bravo pg. 93 Website: robertobravo.com Email: export@robertobravo.com Royal Chain Group pg. 99, 101, 103, 105, 107 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Royal India USA pg. 163 Website: royalindiausa.com Phone: 212-616-7661

Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 43 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327

S. Kashi pg. 37 Website: skashi.com Email: info@skashi.com Toll-Free: 800-775-2744

New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show pg. 191 Website: nyantiquejewelry.com

Salesone LLC pg. 168 Website: salesone.org Email: sales@salesone.org Toll-Free: 866-507-2537

Peter Lam Jewellery Ltd. pg. 14-15 Website: peterlam.com.hk Email: kenter@peterlam.com.hk Phone: +852 23555897 Fax: +852 27641328 Phillip Gavriel pg. 107 Website: phillipgavriel.com Email: info@phillipgavriel.com Phone: 212-382-3340 Rand & Paseka pg. 44 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 201 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 171 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Rio Tinto Diamonds pg. 66 Website: australiandiamondstory.com Email: rtd.usa@riotinto.com Phone: +3233036800

Sarine pg. 166 Website: sarine.com Phone: 646-727-4286 Schofer pg. 72 Website: schofer.com Email: info@schofer.com Phone: +49 (0) 7231-91030 Sethi Couture pg. 187 Website: sethicouture.com Phone: 415-863-1475 Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang pg. 203 Website: laofengxiang.com Shy Creation pg. 45 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749

Sterling Reputation pg. 153 Website: sterlingreputation.com Email: info@sterlingreputation.com Phone: 954-578-1880 Stuller Inc. pg. 2-3, 49-60 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655 Thistle & Bee pg. 170 Website: thistleandbee.net Toll-Free: 888-828-2801 Thomas Sabo pg. 87 Website: thomassabo.com Email: lee@atelierpr.com Phone: 347-507-8300 Ti Sento – Milano pg. 110 Website: tisento-milano.com Email: sales@tisento-milano.com Phone: 0031 20 3428080

Unique Settings of New York pg. 16-17 Website: uniquesettings.com Email: info@uniquesettings.com Phone: 718-247-4500 Toll-Free: 800-466-4900 UNO de 50 pg. 157 Website: unode50.com/us Email: ssanchez@unode50us.com Phone: 212-697-0100 ext. 5029 V.D. Gems Ltd. pg. 182 Website: vdgems.com Email: info@vdgems.com Phone: +852-2739-9885 VicenzaOro pg. 77-84 Website: las-vegas.vicenzaoro.com Wilkerson pg. 109 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333

TritonRAW pg. Back Cover Website: tritonjewelry.com Email: tritonsales@fgoldman.com Toll-Free: 800-221-3232 UBM Rotaforte International Fairs Inc. pg. 195 Website: ubmrotaforte.com Email: info-rotaforte@ubm.com Phone: +90 212 519 07 19 Fax: +90 212 513 30 38 Umicore pg. 205 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060

Sophia by Design pg. 147 Website: sophiabydesign.com Email: sales@sophiabydesign.com Toll-Free: 888-SNI-JEWELS SRK pg. 22-23 Website: srkexport.com

Copyright Š2017 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 148 No. 4 (1070-0242) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/August, September/October, and November/ December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

JCKONLINE.COM

JUNE 2017


CLASSIFIEDS

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CAREER OPPORTUNITIES

REPS WANTED

JEWELERS & SALES REPRESENTATIVES

EXPERIENCED SALES REPS WANTED

The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

Fax resume to 770.499.8974 or email careers@danaaugustineinc.com www.danaaugustineinc.com Heritage Appraisers Inc. is seeking experienced, professional Independent Jewelry Appraisers to work as sub-contractors. Several territories available: Texas, Idaho, Utah, Illinois, Minnesota, and Northern New York. Other territories may come available. Appraiser must have a Graduate Gemologist degree (GIA preferred or FGA International School of Gemology). You must also be a member of a professional, national jewelry appraisal organization (NAJA preferred). If you have a pleasant personality, are well-organized, and have an ability to work independently in a fastpaced environment, contact us today! Some travel required. Please email resume to: llott@heritage-appraisers.com

Magnum Creations, a leading manufacturer of high , in business for 46 years, is looking for a few experienced sales

JEWELRY CLASSES

• Wax Modeling • Casting Mold Making • Bead Pearl Stringing • Diamond Setting • Rendering/Design • Jewelry Repair Long and Short Term Courses EST. 1979, LICENSED BY NYS ED. DEPT. 32 East 31 Street (Park & Madison) New York, NY 10016 Call (212) 686-1944 www.studiojewelersltd.com

STUDIO JEWELERS, LTD

JUNE 2017

Established jewelry company (medium-high-end line). Offering exciting programs for independent jewelers. Seeking experienced sales agentsmultiple territories; established clients. Marketing material available. Fax: 516-773-1307 Email: info@vipdiamond.com

Midwest. Monthly salary and bonus for new customers. magnumny@verizon.net Fax: 212-642-0993

INDEPENDENT REPS WANTED 30+ year Direct Manufacturer of high-demand Gold, silver and diamond Jewelry seeking experienced Reps with a following. Excellent commission. Must have established customer base. Nonconflicting lines okay. Major Trade Show Presence. Resume to: independantreps@JCKonline.com

SALES REPS WANTED Crescendo Jewelry is seeking dynamic outside sales professionals in several U.S and Canadian Territories. Candidates will have a proven track record of success serving independent retailers. We offer a competitively priced line of Bridal, Ladies Rings, Gents Rings, Pendants and Earrings. Please email resumes to contact@crescendojewelry.com.

THISTLE & BEE LUXURY STERLING SILVER SEEKING WEST COAST REPRESENTATIVE

SCHOOLS & EDUCATION

REPS WANTED

Experience with high-end retailers a must. FAX RESUME TO SALES@THISTLEANDBEE.NET or visit us at JCK LAS VEGAS, JUNE 5 – 8, 2017, BOOTH B10166

SALES REPS WANTED MARS Fine Jewelry is looking for highly motivated Our line offers extensive styles, competitive pricing, pre-packaged programs, and custom design services. Proven sales ability is a must, as well as current relationships with high-end independent retailers. Travel Required. Non-conflicting lines OK. Several US territories available. Please email resume to: patti@marsjewelry.com PLEASE VISIT US AT JCK LV BOOTH B58001

Sales Reps Needed Our 30+ year pearl farmer and pearl jewelry manufacturer is looking for experienced sales reps. Established relationships with jewelry department stores are preferred. Excellent commission. Email resume to: info@eperalfarm.com or text message to: (401)263-6196. All inquiries will be kept confidential. You are welcome to visit our JCK jewelry show booth at #B26120 during June 5-8.

WATCHES & WATCH WORK ACCUTRON REPAIRS Done by a Certified Accutron Technician 45+ years experience, 99% parts in stock, quick turnover, all work guaranteed, reasonable prices. Star Jeweler Supplies, Inc. 84 Bowery, NY, NY 10013 212-941-7655 fax: 212-941-8034 starjewelersupply@gmail.com www.starfindings.com


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE SERVICES TO TRADE I’m a Highly Skilled Goldsmith for Hire. Very extensive experience in all aspects of goldsmithing including laser welding, retail environment, teaching and custom work. Willing to relocate. Please contact me at friendlyneighborhoodgoldsmith@gmail.com

Custom Colored Gem Cutting American style precision cutting or gem repairs. Gems of the Hill Country 830-367-3368 gemologist@texas-topaz.com

V.D. Gems Ltd.

Unit 8, 6/Floor, Fu Hang Int’l Bldg., No. 1 Hok Yuen St. Hung Hom, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 2739 9885 Fax: 2739 8180 Email: info@vdgems.com Website: vdgems.com Manufacturer and wholesaler of single-cut, full-cut, tapper, baguette, fancy shape, and GIA diamonds. World leader in single-cut diamonds.

CUSTOM MADE MANUFACTURING 3D computer design 3D wax printing ● Precious metal casting ●

Stone setting and finishing Diamond supply ● Laser engra ●

Limpid Jewelry at your service since 1979 800-446-0445 www.limpidjewelry.com info@limpidjewelry.com

JEWELRY MODELS

For solitaire, engagement, wedding sets, anniversary, 3-stone, eternity rings, and pendants Exclusively made in Los Angeles, USA (213) 479-8019 www.JewelryRubberMolds.com

INVISIBLE EXPERTS! INVISIBLE SET DIAMOND JEWELRY REPAIR • SIZING • REPLACE MISSING STONES TIGHTEN LOOSE STONES • LASER WELDING

We Have The Answer to Your Problems!

www.invisibleexperts.com SIGNATURE JEWELRY INC.

1-877-8-EXPERT 213-624-6026

617 S. OLIVE ST. STE. 201 LOS ANGELES, CA 90014

Belle Étoile

5901 Christie Ave, Suite 501 Emeryville, CA 94608 Tel: 415-626-9223 Fax: 415-373-9484 Email: sales@belleetoilejewelry.com Website: belleetoilejewelry.com Discover Belle Étoile, award-winning designer jewelry brand. French for “beautiful star,” Belle Étoile offers exquisite design and exciting programs to help drive traffic and increase sales in your store. Call us today to learn more.

Alex Velvet Inc.

3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90065 Tel: 323-255-6900 Fax: 323-255-6934 Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Website: alexvelvetusa.com Alex Velvet presents Rain Drop Collection.

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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

OOH LA LA LIZ

BEFORE CELEBRITIES flooded our Instagram feeds with selfies, before paparazzi was a household word, there was Elio Sorci, widely considered the world’s first paparazzo. The Italian lensman snapped this glamorous pic of Elizabeth Taylor at the David di Donatello Awards in Rome in 1962. Cigarette holder in hand and flanked by two unidentified gentlemen, Taylor had every reason to smile. She was at the top of her career—in the midst of filming Cleopatra—and kneedeep in an affair with costar Richard Burton (as Sorci would famously reveal to the world). She was also dripping in a Bulgari platinum, emerald, and diamond parure: a bracelet with 13 Colombian emeralds, pendant earrings (with two Colombian pear-shape emeralds weighing 20.64 cts.), and a tremblant brooch, which she’d later wear as a headpiece in the 1963 movie The V.I.P.s. As we’d say today: #jewelrygoals. —KRISTIN YOUNG JCKONLINE.COM

ELIO SORCI/CAMERA PRESS/REDUX PICTURES

The star, who had a lifelong “love affair with jewelry,” sparkles in a rare candid, bedazzled in her beloved Bulgari


From The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology ™

GIA is the globally recognized source of knowledge, standards, education and analysis for diamonds, colored stones and pearls. Contact us today.

GIA.edu

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