JCK 2022 Summer Issue

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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

JCKONLINE.COM

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IVIN

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30 & T

SUMMER 2022

THE JCK SHOW CELEBRATES THREE DECADES OF SPARKLE IN SIN CITY



Your source for


at JCK Las Vegas


THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

2022 JCA AWARDS

EVERYBODY LOV ES A WIN NER! SEE ALL THE TOP HON OREES.

SUMMER 2022

FALL ­ ESTIVAL F

JCKONLINE.COM

OUR AN NUAL ROUN DUP OF RUNWAY-READY FASHION AND ACCESSORIES

BOSS VEGAS

FIRST-RATE RESTAURAN TS, BARS & ADVEN TURES ON AND OFF THE STRIP

SPORTS BRIGHT

AT HLEIS URE GE TS A LIFT FROM ULT RA-WEARABLE DIAM OND JEWELRY

LUXURY WATCH

HOW LUXE S HIFTED FRO M S PENDY TO S USTAINABLE (C LIENT S CARE—A LOT!)

G O L D

S P E L L

W E ’ V E G O T T H E S T Y L E S R E TA I L E R S CAN’T KEEP IN THEIR STORES




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S H Y C R E A T I O N . C O M

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CONTENTS

108

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

SPORTY ICE Tennis necklaces, anyone? Work it out in these ­athleisurefriendly, sportswear-chic d ­ iamond jewels that are perfect for anyone on the go. (Just take them off before swimming, please.) PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM

FEATURES 116

THE GILDED AGE On this season’s must-buy gold list? Cool chain links, knife-edge styles, and men’s staples, to name just a few. PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN LEWIS

122

146

We cull the trends from a strangely subdued fall 2022 ­runway show season, from ­minimal metal to flora and fauna. BY VENESSA LAU

128

WHAT A STRIP! Vegas has added plenty of cool stuff since last year’s JCK show. Make time to explore—and make your reservations now. BY MATT VILLANO

128 SUMMER 2022

122

MODEL: JASON KIM; BRACELETS: (R. WRIST, L.–R.) FACET BARCELONA, HERCO; (L. WRIST, L.–R.) KC DESIGNS (2), SHY CREATION, REPOSSI, SHY CREATION, HERCO, FOREVERMARK, HERCO (2); FOR REMAINING JEWELRY CREDITS, SEE P. 110; RUNWAY MODEL: IMAXTREE; DELILAH SUPPER CLUB: ROBERT MILLER

FASHION STATEMENT


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CONTENTS

108

JCKONLINE.COM

FEATURES 132

LUXURY’S NEW LOOK Conscious, sustainable, and ethical are buzzwords—but they also point to a fundamental shift in how consumers define luxury. BY TANYA DUKES

138

30 ROCKS The JCK show marks its pearl anniversary this June at The ­Venetian Expo. Celebrate with us! BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO + VICTORIA GOMELSKY

146

The paper-clip chain continues to dominate—taking the 2022 JCA grand-prize title. Presenting all the top vote-getters, plus the winners of the Editors’ Choice awards and Influencers’ Choice awards.

174

SPECIAL REPORT: COLORED STONES 161

132 SUMMER 2022

What was selling at the gem shows (hint: the rarer the better)? Plus: Retailers and buyers tell us what they brought back from Tucson, and we round up 2022’s hottest stones.

GOLD RING: STEPHEN LEWIS; FUSION 3-PIECE RING IN 18K WHITE, YELLOW, AND ROSE GOLD WITH DIAMONDS (EACH SOLD SEPARATELY), $6,800 AS SHOWN, NINA KOPPEL FOR GEORG JENSEN, SALESUS@GEORGJENSEN.COM, GEORGJENSEN.COM

2022 JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS: THE WINNERS


TOP JEWELRY BRAND INSTORE BIG SURVEY 2019 • 2020 • 2021

sylviecollection.com




CONTENTS

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184

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JCKONLINE.COM

DEPARTMENTS 34 40 44 46 53

75

78

92 95 96

COVER LOOK JEWEL BOX 10 things rocking the industry

FROM THE EDITOR STAFF PICKS NEWS GEMS

How Russia’s invasion of Ukraine is affecting the diamond and jewelry trade

SHOP TALK

INNOVATIVE RETAILER Paloma Wilder in Milwaukee RETAIL THERAPY What’s one tool or technology your business couldn’t live without? STORE WE ADORE D.C. Johnson Ltd. in Columbus, Ohio

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THE LOOK

DESIGNER SHOWCASE Mateo New York 102 RED CARPET 106 JCK ASKS... Lika Behar

181 182 184 187

THE VAULT BRIDAL MEN’S JEWELRY

TOOL TIME What TikTok can do for your business. Plus: the Vívomove Sport Hybrid Smartwatch.

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102

Bella donna Monica Vitti wears the Bulgari Seven Wonders emerald necklace.

SUMMER 2022

PALOMA WILDER: ALIZA BARAN

200 THE WAY WE WORE



Cover Look

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14k white gold tennis necklace with 13 cts. t.w. Caydia lab-grown diamonds; $8,299; Charles & Colvard; 800-210-4367; charlesandcolvard.com Bracelet with 15.5 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $32,995; Ashi Couture; 212-319-8291; ashidiamonds.com

Wave ring with 3.6 cts. t.w. diamonds in recycled 14k white gold; $7,250; KBH Jewels

Square Bling Ring with 4.26 cts. t.w. diamonds in recycled 14k white gold; $6,995; KBH Jewels; 201-6946869; kbhjewels.com

30 & THRIVING

Platinum and 18k yellow gold ring with 6.46 cts. t.w. diamonds; $86,741; Yael; 415-989-9235; yaeldesigns.com

The JCK show celebrates three decades of sparkle in Sin City

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON KIM Hair: KIYONORI SUDO USING ORIBE/L’ATELIER NYC Makeup: LINDA GRADIN USING M·A·C AT L’ATELIER NYC Stylist: DANIEL EDLEY AT WALTER SCHUPFER MANAGEMENT Manicurist: HONEY FOR LONDONTOWN USA/EXPOSURE Model: AAMITO LAGUM/HEROES N.Y. Turtleneck: STELLA McCARTNEY FOR ADIDAS

SUMMER 2022

Velvet necklace in 18k white gold with 12.5 cts. t.w. diamonds; $34,899; Facet Barcelona; 212-302-8200; facetbarcelona.com

Carré Bar earrings with 12.22 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum; price on request; Rahaminov; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com

Serti Sur Vide 18k white gold ear cuff with 1.3 cts. t.w. diamonds; $20,500; Repossi; 917-499-9173; repossi.com

Not pictured: 14k white gold ring with 3.9 cts. t.w. diamonds, $19,850, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry.com; tennis necklace with 3.65 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold, $14,213, Yael JCKONLINE.COM


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cover look k

GolD SPell

We’ve got the styles that retailers can’t keep in their stores

Inverted Diamond bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 0.47 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $7,995; Dorian Webb; 917-562-2550; dorianwebb.com

color THeorY

Trends from Tucson, 2022’s hottest gems & more Ring with 14.73 ct. kunzite in 18k yellow gold; $11,000; Rahaminov; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY GET UP-TO -THE-MOMENT JEWELRY NEWS AND INSIGHTS JCKONLINE.COM

@JCKmagazine + @JCKEvents on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter

Montana Sunshine ring in 18k yellow gold with 2.23 ct. Montana sapphire and 0.71 ct. t.w. diamonds; $13,985; Parlé; 800-635-9800; parlegems.com

Platinum ring with 2.21 ct. grandidierite, 1.18 cts. t.w. alexandrite, and 0.34 ct. t.w. diamonds; $96,000; Omi Privé; 626-331-4533; omiprive.com

COVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN LEWIS Prop stylist: PETER TRAN AT ART DEPARTMENT JCKONLINE.COM


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SUMMER 2022

the industry authority

10 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box

When a longtime Cartier e­ mployee decamped to Tiffany & Co. in January, one of the latter’s executives ­purportedly told her that the two brands were “at each other’s throats.” Now, that longtime rivalry has grown even haute-r. On Feb. 28, Cartier sued its luxury competitor in New York Supreme Court, charging not only that the former employee emailed confidential information about Cartier’s business to Tiffany executives—even though she’d signed a nondisclosure agreement—but also that Tiffany executives both used it and asked her for more, a possible violation of New York’s trade secrets law. A spokesperson for Tiffany says, “We deny the baseless allegations and will vigorously defend ourselves.”

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SHOWS

Platinum and 18k yellow gold ring with 23.43 ct. Zambian emerald and 9.16 cts. t.w. fancy yellow radiant and round brilliant diamonds; price on request; Takat; 646-7280151; takat.com JCKONLINE.COM

The 2022 JCK show in Las Vegas will be an opportunity for the industry to reunite after a prolonged pandemic-­ induced separation. But it will also mark a reunion with the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), which is coming back to the JCK fold after a three-year hiatus. The AGTA GemFair Las Vegas will open Thursday, June 9, one day before the JCK show, which will take place June 10–13 at The Venetian Expo. The AGTA also announced it is parting ways with its longtime CEO Doug Hucker, who ran the group for 24 years. Hucker tells JCK he is not retiring: “I remain passionate about the colored stone industry, and I’m looking forward to heading down a new road.”

CARTIER: WDSTOCK/ISTOCK/GETTY; TIFFANY & CO.: ROMANBABAKIN/ISTOCK/GETTY

BRANDS

1


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CHARITY 4

ZENDAYA: MICHAEL BAKER/A.M.P.A.S.; ULYSSE NARDIN LIMITED-EDITION TORPILLEUR TOURBILLON 42 MM, $50,100, ULYSSENARDIN.COM

As horrific scenes of the war in Ukraine filled TV screens, the jewelry industry once again showed its generosity and heart. Big players—including LVMH, Kering, Richemont, Signet, and De Beers—donated millions to Ukraine charities, but smaller companies and designers pitched in too. When Cyndi Yi of The Fab Nab set up a ­fundraising auction on Instagram, she was ­“flooded” with donations from designer friends. “I’m awed by our community coming together,” she says. “In an industry that seems frivolous in the face of war, look at the beauty we have created.” Bibi van der Velden is donating 100% of the sales of her 18k yellow gold, blue topaz, citrine, and sapphire Ukrainian Alligator to UNICEF. (€5,240/$5,765; bibivandervelden.com)

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ACQUISITIONS The news in January that Kering, the Paris-based owner of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, was selling its stake in Sowind Group SA, owner of watch brands Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin (brands it acquired in 2011 and 2014, respectively), was not entirely unexpected. Observers noted that neither brand had performed to its potential under the group. What did surprise the watch community, however, was the announcement that Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of the brands for Kering since 2018, was leading a management buyout. “I think everyone wants to see these wonderful brands blossom in the coming years,” he told JCK in February. “They have a combined history of more than 400 years. It’s extremely rare they would go on sale or change ownership.” JCKONLINE.COM

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CELEBRITIES Kristen Stewart wore shorts and Timothée Chalamet didn’t wear a shirt: There was definitely an anything-goes vibe at the March 27 Oscars. Zendaya (left) wore a cropped menswear-style shirt—though it was Valentino, and a fun nod to Sharon Stone’s 1998 Oscars look. We were more impressed by all those Bulgari Serpenti diamond bracelets. And, frankly, by Chalamet’s Cartier necklaces, rings, and bracelets (nine in all!). Don’t be afraid to wear jewelry… even if you are afraid to wear a shirt. SUMMER 2022


10 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box

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The old song says, “War, what is it good for?” At least one thing: the gold price. In times of turmoil, the yellow metal almost always shines, and we saw that again in mid-March, when the spot price of bullion crossed the $2,000-an-ounce benchmark for the first time in 18 months. (At press time, it was trading just below that.) The surge happened in spite of the Federal Reserve’s signaling it plans to raise interest rates, a move that usually depresses the gold price. Whether this third gold rush will last longer than the ones in 2011 and 2019—when the price topped $1,900 and $2,000, respectively—remains to be seen. But for now, it’s a “perfect storm” for the metal, according to Jeff Currie, global head of commodities research for Goldman Sachs, who predicted the price could soar as high as $2,500.

Handcrafted Signature chain in 18k yellow gold; $10,500; Darius; meaghan@ forfuturereference. com; darius jewels.com

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Actress Blake Lively presented designer Lorraine Schwartz with the Gem Award for Jewelry Style. SUMMER 2022

AWARDS

It all felt perfectly natural, yet a bit surreal. The jewelry industry (finally!) reconvened in New York City in March for the long-delayed 24 Karat Weekend. Overall, it was just like old times: the Jewelers Vigilance Committee luncheon and Jewelers of America’s Gem Awards on Friday, and the ­Jewelers’ Security Alliance luncheon and 24 Karat Club dinner on Saturday. JA presented its Lifetime Achievement Award to longtime De Beers exec Stephen Lussier, who is retiring after 37 years, but urged attendees to never forget the “diamond dream.” Chances are, they won’t—nor will they forget how good it felt to reconnect face-to-face. JCKONLINE.COM

LIVELY AND SCHWARTZ: BART GORIN

GOLD

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ENIGMA BLACK DIAMOND: COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S; REF. 5711/1A-018: COURTESY OF PATEK PHILIPPE; RING: COURTESY OF STEPHEN WEBSTER

WATCHES In December, Patek Philippe did something highly unexpected: The Geneva-based watchmaker introduced a limited edition of its recently discontinued Ref. 5711, aka the steel Nautilus, featuring Tiffany & Co.’s name on a dial in the retailer’s signature robin’s-egg blue. Patek allotted 170 pieces to Tiffany, in honor of the 170th anniversary of their partnership. “I’m not sure it’s a gift for them,” Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe’s president, told The New York Times. “They may not realize how difficult it’s going to be to choose the clients. On the other hand, ­everybody’s going to talk about and go crazy to find this piece.” He wasn’t exaggerating. The model is now rumored to be worth $3 million on secondary channels—to say nothing of the $6.2 million paid for a special edition auctioned for charity at Phillips New York in December.

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RINGS The ring is made in 18k Single Mine Origin white gold, sourced from Hummingbird Resources’ Yanfolila Mine in Mali, Africa.

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DIAMONDS At 555.55 cts., the black diamond formerly-known-as-the-Enigma is certainly enigmatic. Considered the largest cut diamond ever auctioned, it is believed—like most carbonados—to have been created by a meteor or asteroid crashing down to Earth. When Sotheby’s London put it on the block in February, it attracted a suitably offbeat buyer: Richard Heart, founder of the cryptocurrency-trading platform Hex.com, who paid $4.3 million, with crypto. On Twitter, Heart boasted that some of his site’s regulars have gotten 5,555 tattoos—a nod to the maximum number of days users can lock up their Hex stake—and so the purchase was “a match made in heaven.” He didn’t reveal his plans for the newly minted “Hex.com diamond,” but as Tobias Kormind, managing director of 77 Diamonds, told Forbes, owning one of the world’s largest cut diamonds gives you “unparalleled bragging rights.” JCKONLINE.COM

Celebrity engagement rings never fail to make news—­ usually due to a could-it-beany-bigger diamond (think J. Lo and A-Rod, Kim and Ye). But the toi et moi ring that Machine Gun Kelly presented to Megan Fox in January—a Stephen Webster design featuring a pear-shape diamond and a pear-shape emerald (MGK’s and MF’s birthstones, respectively)—started a veritable two-stone ring frenzy. “Toi et moi was my idea,” Webster says. “He had given me almost like a lyric: ‘We met under a banyan tree’… ‘We’re like two old souls who have come together. This kind of heart that becomes complete’—it all came from those things.” The jewel is actually not one ring but two, held together by two magnets. Clever and symbolic!

SUMMER 2022


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from the editor

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Ancient Persian Turquoise Bead necklace with 22k gold tubes; $18,500; Loren Nicole; 424-262-7319; loren-nicole.com

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com SUMMER 2022

LATELY, I’VE BEEN thinking a lot about the precious materials that constitute the building blocks of our industry: gold, diamonds, colored stones. Not because of their spectacular qualities—and let’s be honest, there are many— but because of how their journey to market may impact people and places along the way. It’s a conversation many in the trade are having, and should expect to have, as contributor Tanya Dukes confirmed while researching “Luxury’s New Look” (page 132), a thoughtful analysis of how the meaning of luxury has steadily changed. The finest—and most progressive—jewelers realize it’s no longer solely about prestige and even less so exclusivity; a luxury brand in the 2020s must be, first and foremost, sustainable, ethical, and inclusive. In this day and age, luxury brands must also be keenly attuned to current events. Between news director Rob Bates’ up-to-the-minute story on how sanctions on Russia are affecting the diamond trade (page 53) and “Fashion Statement” (page 122), contributor Venessa Lau’s timely fall runway report in which she ­describes how fashion designers responded to the Ukraine crisis as it was unfolding in real time, this issue provides a glimpse of what the current geopolitical landscape spells for jewelers. But there is optimism in these pages too. Take Venessa’s fashion feature, for starters, in which she details how designers are expressing

their jewelry visions for 2022 (think: marine motifs, sleek metals, whimsical statement styles). For a true dose of joy, check out the photo shoots we commissioned for this issue. In “The Gilded Age” (page 116), photographer Stephen Lewis makes a slew of trendy gold jewels (chains, celestial pieces) look utterly divine, while in “Sporty Ice” (page 108), Aamito Lagum, our dazzling cover model, proves that diamonds are the perfect accessory to an active lifestyle. Gem lovers, don’t despair—we’ve lavished plenty of attention on colored stones in this issue’s special section, which includes my own recap of the Tucson gem shows (“Everything Is Fine” on page 172) as well as contributing editor Amy Elliott’s wonderful tally of all the things your favorite designers brought home from the shows (“What’s Your Treasure?” on page 174). Finally, we must mention “30 Rocks” (page 138), which honors the 30th anniversary of JCK Las Vegas with a compendium of fun facts about this year’s event, June 10–13 at The Venetian Expo. (To fully prepare for all the newness Sin City has to offer, contributor Matt Villano’s “What a Strip!” on page 128 is a must-read!) There will be a lot to celebrate in Vegas, from the 2022 Jewelers’ Choice Award winners (see page 146 for the full list) to the return of galas and other festivities. Most of all, I’m looking forward to toasting the JCK show’s 30th anniversary. What a long, spellbinding trip it’s been! JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

t’s the journey.


VOTED AS THE #1 MOST PREFERRED BRAND BY RETAILERS FOR 6 YEARS IN A ROW GABRIELNY.COM | LUXURY BY JCK - VERONESE BALLROOM 2504 & 2505


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SUMMER 2022

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS 1

2

Flower ring with 3.97 cts. t.w. pearshape tanzanite, 0.27 ct. t.w. diamond melee, and a 0.09 ct. round diamond in 18k yellow gold; $8,000; Rahaminov; 213-622-9866; rahaminov.com

3 ct. kite-shape gray-purple spinel and diamond ring; $20,000; Nicole Mera; info@nicolemera.com; nicolemera.com

18k yellow gold Thistle ring with 1.82 cts. t.w. purple Umba sapphires and 0.13 ct. purple Sri Lankan sapphire; $11,500; Mociun; online@mociun.com; mociun.com

3 4

What JCK ’s Melissa Rose Bernardo is loving this month

5

Oval Harem ring with 1.85 ct. tanzanite and 0.12 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $3,400; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com

“Pantone’s 2022 Color of the Year mixes the coolness of blue with the pop of purple—yielding so many gorgeous jewelry options.”—Melissa Rose Bernardo, JCK managing editor JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: BRUCE GLIKAS

Ring with 5.65 ct. pear-shape lilac cuprian tourmaline and 0.71 ct. t.w. round lavender sapphires in platinum and 18k gold; price on request; Gems of Note; info@ gemsofnote.com; gemsofnote.com

VERY PERI, PLEASE!



THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 153 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

EDITORIAL

U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com

JCK Advertising Sales Director RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 randi.gewertz@rxglobal.com

Contributing Editor & Social Media Manager BRITTANY SIMINITZ / bsiminitz@jckonline.com

Regional Manager LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lars.parker-myers@rxglobal.com

Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY

GENERAL ADVERTISING INQUIRIES

Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI Contributing Editors KAREN DYBIS / kdybis@gmail.com AMY ELLIOTT / aelliott718@gmail.com

advertise@jckonline.com

Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON

magazine@jckonline.com

C I R C U L AT I O N

Editorial Contributors KATHY HENDERSON, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHI-HART, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors JASON KIM, STEPHEN LEWIS, KENJI TOMA, JOEL STANS, DIEGO UCHITEL, YULIA GORBACHENKO, MIKAEL SCHULZ, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, PATRICIA HEAL, JAMES WOJCIK, NICOLE LaMOTTE, KEN GUTMAKER, MARK LUND, BALL & ALBANESE, CODY PICKENS, REBECCA STUMPF, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY

A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY.

Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade. With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s true, business-to-business news source.

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JCKONLINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE

PUBWORX

/ caroline harrison, ceo



THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Chief Growth Officer / RX USA YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 / yancy.weinrich@rxglobal.com Group Vice President / RX USA Jewelry Group SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 / sarin.bachmann@rxglobal.com

I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G

JCK SHOW & LUXURY

BRAZIL/EUROPE/ MIDDLE EAST MIREK KRACZKOWSKI 48-22-401-70-01 fax 48-22-401-70-16 cell 48-600-344-881 mirek.kraczko@rxglobal.com

Sales Director JIM FOX 203-840-5958 james.fox@rxglobal.com

INDIA QUINNY D'SOUZA 91-22-6771-6607 cell 91-99-8714-2695 quinny.dsouza@rxglobal.com ISRAEL RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905 randi.gewertz@rxglobal.com THAILAND CHUMPIA (AOR) SAITHAN 66-2-686-7357 saithan.chum@ reedtradex.co.th CHINA/HONG KONG/ INDONESIA/JAPAN/KOREA/ MALAYSIA/PHILIPPINES/ SINGAPORE/TAIWAN/ VIETNAM QUENTIN CHAN 852-2366-1106 fax 852-2366-1107 cell 852-9438-9577 quentinchan@leadingm.com

Group Marketing Director LAUREN THOMPSON 203-840-5878 lauren.thompson@rxglobal.com Strategic Accounts Manager JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET Luxury; Bridal 203-840-5955 jessica.audet@rxglobal.com Key Accounts Manager ANA CROSBY JCK Show Diamond Plaza; Plumb Club 203-840-5305 anamaria.crosby@rxglobal.com International Sales Executive JURGEN OLIVER 203-840-5971 jurgen.oliver@rxglobal.com Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Clockwork, Essentials & Technology, Gallery, Bella Italia, Retail Innovation, Lab-Grown 203-840-5808 lars.parker-myers@rxglobal.com

Account Executive BARBARA MURRAY First Look, GEMS 203-840-5820 barbara.murray@rxglobal.com Sales Executive MONALISA DePINA Bridge, Design Collective 203-840-5556 monalisa.depina@rxglobal.com Senior Marketing Manager JCK Show & Luxury STEPHANIE CHRISTIE 203-840-5587 stephanie.christie@rxglobal.com Special Events & Conference Manager JORDAN FREEMAN 203-840-5567 jordan.freeman@rxglobal.com


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AWARD WINNING INNOVATIVE DESIGN


53

the industry authority

SUMMER 2022

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS UKRAINE INVASION ROILS JEWELRY, DIAMOND TRADE

ALEXANDER NEMENOV/AFP/GETTY

A A 20.69 ct. square emerald-cut bright yellow diamond at a 2019 Alrosa media event in Moscow

BY ROB BATES

T PRESS TIME, Russia’s invasion of Ukraine was still ongoing, and the diamond and jewelry business was coping with its fallout. Russian miner Alrosa—which is 33% owned by the Russian government—is the world’s largest diamond producer by volume, though not by value. Russia is also the world’s ­second-largest producer of gold and platinum. The invasion turned Russia into a global pariah almost overnight, with Alrosa representatives stepping down from the boards of industry groups including Diamonds Do Good, the Responsible Jewellery Council, and the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), and Alrosa suspending its membership in the Natural Diamond Council. On Feb. 24, the same day the invasion began, the U.S. government slapped Alrosa with sanctions that prevent it from raising new funds from U.S investors. It also named Alrosa CEO Sergey Ivanov—son of Russian president Vladimir Putin’s former chief of staff—a specially designated national (SDN), meaning he can’t come into the United States or do business here. (Alrosa responded that Ivanov has no U.S. assets.) On March 11, President Biden banned imports of JCKONLINE.COM

­“nonindustrial diamonds” of “Russian Federation origin.” Many initially viewed this as a ban on all diamonds mined in Russia. However, later that day, the U.S. Office of Foreign Assets C ­ ontrol (OFAC) specified the ban excluded diamonds produced in Russia that have been “substantially transformed” elsewhere—meaning cut and polished. That means that (at press time) U.S. companies are free to import Russian rough cut from India, where most of Russia’s ­diamonds are cut and polished. Even so, the ban led Alrosa USA to shut its New York City office, which the Russian miner opened in 2018 to forge a direct connection with the U.S. market. Despite this seeming loophole, some warn that the longer the war drags on, the greater the likelihood the sanctions will be tightened—and all Russian diamond imports will be banned, even those cut elsewhere. “Industry members should be prepared,” says Sara Yood, deputy general counsel of the JVC. “If you’re bringing in a rough parcel and you don’t have origin information, it could be risky.” Given the worldwide revulsion at the Ukraine invasion, several companies and groups have taken measures that have gone


NEWS GEMS

the scoop

54

Rough-cut diamonds in the sorting center at Alrosa’s (nowclosed) Mir diamond mine in Mirny, Russia, in 2013

beyond government mandates. Signet Jewelers—which has bought directly from Alrosa and was a member of the Alrosa Alliance—has ceased doing business with Russian entities and asked its suppliers to do the same. E-tailer Brilliant Earth, which sells goods by origin, pulled all Russian diamonds from its site. (Tiffany & Co., also a member of the Alrosa Alliance, did not return requests for comment.) In a member alert, Jewelers of America recommended that “due to

serious ethical, reputational, and legal risks, [JA] strongly advises members to take measures to stop buying diamonds, precious metals, and/or precious gemstones” that come from Russia or Belarus. The organization advised industry members to use the U.S. Jewelry Council’s Source Warranty Protocol, which includes a template that members can send to suppliers, stipulating they avoid Russian goods. Overseas organizations, such as

India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council and the Antwerp World Diamond Centre (AWDC), were a lot more guarded. The European Union’s first batch of Russian sanctions specifically excluded diamonds, a decision hailed by the AWDC, which argued that if Russian gems didn’t come through Belgium, they would be sold in Dubai. “A sanction means you want to hurt a counterpart financially, but that’s not the case with Russian diamonds,” says AWDC spokesperson Tom Neys. “They will easily find another market outside the EU to sell their diamonds if they want to.” There was even social media talk about having Russian diamonds designated “conflict diamonds” by the Kimberley Process (KP), which would block them from world markets. (Ironically, Russia chaired the KP in 2021.) But at press time, none of the KP’s 80-plus members—including Ukraine—nor the Kimberley Process

Civil Society Coalition (KPCSC) had called for a KP ban on Russian goods. Hans Merket, a researcher with the International Peace Information Service, a member of the KPCSC, says that, because the certification scheme requires absolute consensus, passing such a ban would be almost impossible. He believes even raising the topic would get the KP “even more stuck than it is already.” Still, the KPCSC did ask for “increased monitoring” to make sure Russian diamonds don’t fuel conflict, and requested a special plenary meeting to discuss the issue. Current KP chair Jacob Thamage of Botswana responded that he didn’t have the authority to do that under the scheme’s rules. The issue has also increased the rancor within the KP, with U.S. and EU representatives refusing to attend any meeting chaired by Russia, which currently chairs two of the KP’s six working groups.

Fine Jewelry Displays

3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. Los Angeles 90065 • info@alexvelvetusa.com

www.alexvelvetusa.com • Tel: 323.255.6900 • Fax: 323.255.6934


NEWS GEMS

Q&A A pair of 2 ct. Lusix cut and polished lab-grown diamonds

3 Questions for...

BENNY LANDA

(OPPOSITE PAGE) ANDREY RUDAKOV/BLOOMBERG/GETTY IMAGES; (THIS PAGE) VMGROUPE (2)

ONE OF THE richest men in Israel, Benny Landa, who made his fortune with digital printing, recently founded Lusix, a lab-grown diamond producer. Here, Landa talks about why he got into this space and shares his thoughts on the lab-grown versus natural controversy. —RB Why did you decide to start growing diamonds? [Landa Group’s research division] Landa Labs develops technology, and the business model is very simple: When that technology is proven to be disruptive for a large market, we spin it out as a separate business. We’ve spun out seven businesses so far. We are a material science company, so all we do is develop material science–based processes. The head of our energy project came to me and said, “I think we have the capability to grow high-quality diamonds.” But a lot of people can. What makes your company different? I daresay you can count on one hand those [growers that] are really advanced. And even amongst those…I think we have some unique capabilities. JCKONLINE.COM

We believe we’re the only diamond company in the industry that knows how to grow rough diamonds to controlled shapes. For example, we grow pyramid-shape diamonds. That means they’re much closer to the final shape of the polished stone than conventional lab-grown diamonds or than most natural diamonds. And therefore, there’s a higher yield for every carat of rough. Another example is that we are able to grow very high-quality color in an “as grown” matter. There is no need to do HPHT [high-pressure, hightemperature] treatment afterward. That means that our diamonds don’t have, for example, graininess. Also, we’re able to produce substantial volumes with very consistent properties. Do you think that lab-grown and natural diamonds are competing? I don’t see it that way. If what’s really important for consumers is that the stone on their finger was created millions of years ago below the earth, we will never be able to compete with that emotional aspect. But for some, that’s not a big factor. What is a bigger factor is the quality, the value. For the same money, you can get a [larger] diamond. Mined diamonds and lab-grown, like most other industries, will continue to coexist, like electric cars and internal combustion engines, and mechanical printing and digital printing. The real competition is for the customer’s wallet.




JCK Las Vegas booth 11042

212-302-0022 info@shulany.com Shulany.com


the industry authority

75

SUMMER 2022

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK MASTER BUILDER

Paloma Wilder’s background in theater helps her create custom jewelry experiences for clients in Milwaukee, and she makes no apologies about taking her time BY KAREN DYBIS

ALIZA BARAN

B

ACK IN HER theater days, Paloma Wilder stood behind the curtain and watched the audience’s reaction to an extravagant prop brought to life by her vivid imagination. Now, as a custom jeweler, the Milwaukee-based Wilder invites people into her studio to sit with her, much like an apprentice. Knee to knee, they dream up a design. Next, clients watch Wilder sketch their piece. Finally, they help her pull it out of the wax and shine it up to wear. “Human connection is so important, especially after everything we’ve gone through over the past two years,” Wilder says. “It’s for both of us—my connection with the client and the client’s connection to me. I hunger for that.” A prime example of Wilder’s intimate relationship with her clients is the ring and coin she recently created for a husband and wife who lost their beloved dog Bagheera. The coin—shaped to look like angel wings—features the dog’s JCKONLINE.COM

Paloma Wilder palomawilder.com


Shop Talk

INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Custom Cult of Eros Prayer Beads with hand-carved solid 14k gold medallions

profile on one side and two dog tails on the other. Both the ring and coin contain Bagheera’s ashes. The throughline of all her projects is a commitment to what Wilder calls “slow jewelry,” an acknowledgment that great workmanship takes time and effort. Rather than speeding through the making of an engagement ring or a special anniversary necklace, the jeweler brings her clients along for the ride. “It’s all so personal,” Wilder says. “Every little piece has its own story.” How did you go from the theater world to jewelry? I was working at two different theaters as a freelancer in the costume wing and crafts shop. As a craftsmaster, you take a designer’s idea and bring that back into the workshop to create a piece based on their vision. I might be tasked to make a piece of jewelry, like a rhinestone necklace, that is 1920s-inspired. I’ll use historical photos, research different time periods, and study what had been done before to come up with my idea. SUMMER 2022

“I was interested in making something that would last for generations.” With jewelry [for theater], you put it together and then take it apart. It never lives beyond that show for very long. The shift to jewelry happened when I decided I wanted to learn how to do it the “right” way. I started working under a retired jeweler. I was interested in making something that would last for generations versus something that would be disassembled a month later. How does your background help you create stronger client relationships? I started my jewelry business in my home. Even then, I was having people come into my basement and cast with me. As I grew, I got a studio space in the industrial part of Milwaukee [in 2018]. It’s not a traditional retail space, but that adds to the client experience. Jewelry was such an incredible mystery

to me when I started. My clients are looking at it in that same way. They want to be a part of the process and see the work going into their pieces. When you’re in the theater, you think about the experience that every seat has. The same can be said for jewelry. How did you develop your ideas about slow jewelry? I have fine art and philosophy degrees, so I try to look at the bigger picture. With my theater roots, I love stepping into a client’s story and becoming a part of it. Independent jewelers can offer that to their clients. Communication is more important than ever, and what I make is slow jewelry—there’s no way around it. You can’t come in, design a ring, and get the finished product a week later.

Hand-carved Equinox ring with round brilliant diamonds; $980

What is shaping the jewelry industry as we look to the future? Ring-giving is an ancient tradition that we have really made our own. It’s a tradition that has evolved as our ideas of romantic relationships have evolved. Anyone can take on the role of the proposer, and anyone can be proposed to—gender roles be damned. I am making wedding earrings for a woman who proposed to her husband, and I think we’ll see more of this as Gen Z and [Generation] Alpha move to the front of the engagement market. Families are doing the same. I made a group of rings for a family where the client was intent on giving a ring to her own child and the child of her partner. At the wedding, they did this huge ring swap. It all came together so beautifully.

GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER.

JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: ALIZA BARAN

76


Chen Shu the Global image ambassador of the Lao Feng Xiang brand


Shop Talk

IL

ECH

BY ROB B ES

Q: What is a technology or tech application your business could not live without? a: The biggest game changer for us was Podium. We signed up with them for the review generator, but we never actually use it. It’s their texting feature and the secure credit card payment portal that have really won us over. With the proliferation of robocalls, we found our clients were MELISSA QUICK never taking our calls, even when they PRESIDENT were expecting one. Now that we STEVE QUICK offer texting as an option, 85% of our JEWELER Chicago clients prefer it over email and calls. The other feature they offer is the payment portal, which allows us to text our clients with a secure link to receive credit card payments from people who are not in the store. It was huge for us when the world came to a screeching halt in March 2020. Our store was closed for 10 weeks, and Podium payments was the only way we could collect money from clients with orders and repairs in the pipeline. I seriously don’t know what we would have done without it!

ELIZABETH GIBSON CEO AND FOUNDER ELIZA PAGE Austin, Texas

a: We’d say it’s a tie with Podium—which makes it easy to communicate with clients and send payment links— and Shopify, which Podium resides on, so clients can shop our products and learn about our brand/store experience. Shopify…if I had to pick one. Everything is housed on that.

MICHAEL ZIBMAN GENERAL MANAGER WINDSOR FINE JEWELERS Augusta, Ga.

a: For us, it’s Clientbook, our

a: We have been using a

customer relationship management software. It’s easy and really logical and our guests really respond to it. It keeps the conversation going. Our top writers use it, and it seems to help a lot. We live in a world of instant communication, and it allows them to have a conversation with a guest at any time.

colorimeter for 20 years and Sarin machines for 15 years. If you go back to just grading with your eye, there are so many variables—the time of day, how tired you are that day, if it’s me or if it’s my appraiser. [These devices] allow our grading to be much more consistent, and it makes it more transparent to our customers. We don’t talk about it to everyone we work with, but if we’re dealing with engineers, they kind of like it.

LIZ MAHONEY VICE PRESIDENT OF OPERATIONS DAY’S JEWELERS Augusta, Maine

DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO O jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag O E US MORE.

JCkoNlINE.CoM



J O I N U S F O R A C E L E B R AT O R Y 3 0 TH A N N I V E R S A R Y E D I T I O N A L A U N C H PA D O F J E W E L R Y T R E N D S F O R O V E R T H R E E D E C A D E S . B E T H E R E W H E N T H E P E O P L E , P R O D U C T S A N D I N N O VAT I O N S I N J E W E L R Y C O N N E C T !

2022 F R I DAY, JU NE 10 – MON DAY, J UNE 1 3 OPENING J U NE 9 FOR GE MS * & J CK TAL K S THE VENETIAN EXPO, LAS VEGAS, NV

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* F E AT U R I N G F I N E G E M S , I C A A N D T H E R E T U R N O F A G T A G E M F A I R L A S V E G A S T M T O T H E G E M S PA V I L I O N



RDI Diamonds Celebrates

30 Years of Empowering Jewelers Leads Industry Transformation Michael Indelicato, CEO of RDI Diamonds

This year, RDI Diamonds celebrates 30 years in business.

Our work has only just begun.

With your support and trust, we have grown from a small, family-run business to become one of the world’s largest and leading suppliers of diamonds. You’ve depended on us to help you meet the rapidly changing needs of our industry and we’ve delivered.

As we move into our next decade, we are committed to

We’ve maintained double-digit growth for more than 25 years, expanded our footprint, and doubled our business this year, alone, to better serve the jewelers who rely on RDI Diamonds. We’ve learned that being open-minded, inclusive, and resilient are critical for growth and to forge the modernization our industry deserves.

RDI Diamonds will help you build your business and win new customers by providing access to an inventory of more than 8,000 high-quality diamonds, including Rare & Forever diamonds, natural diamonds that are hand selected for their brilliance and graded with cutting edge Artificial Intelligence (A.I.) technology for accuracy and consistency that customers can’t find on the Internet. We will empower you to offer your customers a truly superior diamond shopping experience.

We’ve hired smart people, partnered with forward-thinking companies, and we’ve built a network of more than 4,000

retailers, many of them family-run businesses like ours, to transform the jewelry industry by providing customers what they want—authenticity, transparency and quality services and products.

Scan to View Our History and Learn More About Our Industry Legacy & Decades of Expertise Paired with Exceptional Customer Care.

continually innovating to better serve you. We’ll continue to deliver exceptional customer service, and the training, tools, and technology you need to create new and better conversations at the retail counter.

As we celebrate this exciting anniversary and renew our

commitment, we thank you—our people, partners and retailers—for being part of our family and our journey. If you’re not already an RDI Diamonds jeweler, we invite you to join us.

Scan to Open an Acccount Today Or Call 800.874.8768 to Speak to a Diamond Specalist to Learn More.


AMERICA’S DIAMOND SPECIALIST

America’s Diamond Specialist for 30 Years

Search Our 8,000+ Diamond Inventory Today! Scan to Shop Now!

THE ORIGINAL, EASIEST, & MOST RELIABLE LIFETIME TRADE-UP POLICY All Shapes & Sizes | GIA AGS EGL USA IGI 800.874.8768 | rdidiamonds.com


If You’re Challenged With: Grading Inconsistencies | Online Price Comparisons Shrinking Margins | Big-Box Market Dominators

We Have the Solution! Visit Us at JCK Booth #10075 PRESENTED BY


WE DO DIAMONDS

1

Pre-Screened for No BGM We pre-screen diamonds to reject all those with what we call BGM (Brown, Green, or Milky hues).

2

Graded by A.I. Technology

3

Extra Security Feature

We utilize advanced A.I. technology to provide accurately and consistently graded diamonds.

Rare & Forever ® inscribes our diamonds with a special security feature—an ionic inscription on the edge of the table.

Differently 4

Upgrade for Life

5

Diamonds that Give Back

Our Upgrade for Life policy allows your customer’s diamond to grow as their love grows.

When you purchase a Rare & Forever diamond, you can be confident that your diamond is benefiting local communities.

“Rare & Forever is the future of diamond grading. It’s the New Standard.” - Davis, Biondi Jewelers Aurora, CO


How to Capture Bridal Sales from the 2022 Wedding Boom This year’s bridal season is expected to be bigger than any since the early 1980s. With more than 2.5 million weddings projected, jewelers face a sea of opportunity for bridal jewelry sales.

How can you attract and win your share of the pie? By recognizing diamond buyers’ new expectations and delivering on them

with tools and expertise they can’t find on the Internet.

Rewrite Conversations at the Counter

Let Diamonds Speak for Themselves

Forget about sales techniques and tech talk. Bridal shoppers come

What better way to sell a diamond than to showcase its sparkle?

to buy an engagement ring to solidify the love they’ve found. They

Keep shoppers from going elsewhere by fortifying your inventory

are at the counter because of that love and they want to feel

with classic bridal favorites, such as round diamonds in solitaire

good about the purchase they make to celebrate it.

settings, and stand out from the competition by offering unique,

Rewrite conversations at the counter by focusing on the quality and beauty of a diamond. Give shoppers the truth and clarity they

seek and provide the guidance they need to make an important,

meaningful decision.

branded stones that buyers can’t find elsewhere. Carefully consider the brands you carry: Eighty-six percent of younger buyers consider

brand one of the most important deciding factors in their purchase.

Retail jewelers like you can help by providing trustworthy guidance

and advice, accurate and consistent grading reports, and access

Show Buyers Exactly What They Are Buying

to the world’s highest quality diamonds. Rare & Forever is a brand known for its authenticity and trustworthi-

ness, as well as its unique brilliance. Rare & Forever diamonds are A diamond purchase is based on love, but that doesn’t mean

buyers aren’t looking for value. They want to be assured that

they’re getting what they’ve paid for and that their choice is well worth the cost.

selected for their highest quality and are the world’s most accurately and consistently graded diamonds. They are prescreened for Brown, Green, or Milky (BGM) qualities that detract from their brilliance and graded with unbiased artificial intelligence to elim-

Most of today’s diamond shoppers have done their homework and know what they want. They’re tired of weeding through online

sites to find it. They’re also fed up with making sense of inconsistent, confusing grading reports, and they want to understand exactly what they are buying. Grading that utilizes Artificial Intelligence

inate the inconsistencies and inaccuracies that make diamond buying so frustrating. Authorized Rare & Forever jewelers benefit from cutting-edge

technology, services, and tools that help earn customers’ trust with expert advice and access to the world’s best diamonds.

(A.I.) can take the friction out of the consultation process so buyers

can see the unbiased difference and know exactly what they

In addition, Rare & Forever offers an Upgrade for Life Program

are getting.

that guarantees buyers the value of their purchase and facilitates upgrade purchases. Purchases also come with the satisfaction

Rare & Forever sell themselves. There is very little convincing to do.

of knowing Rare & Forever donates to Diamonds Do Good® and

C.U.R.E Childhood Cancer Association so you know your diamond is making a difference.

-Nummi Jewelers. Superior, WI Offering Rare & Forever diamonds empowers you to capture bridal

diamond shoppers by exceeding their expectations and providing Scan Now to Schedule a Free, Fifteen Minute Consultation and Find Out How You Can Join The Rare & Forever Family of Retailers Today!

what they can’t find elsewhere.

To Learn More Call: 800.620.1333 or Visit: become.rareandforever.com/learn-more


Bridal Collection

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

A. Dahlia, Hidden Halo. 14K White Gold, .35 cttw*

E. Blossom, Halo. 14K White Gold, .75 cttw*

B. Poppy, Oval Halo. 14K White Gold, .38 cttw*

F. Ivy, Petite Hidden Halo. 14k White Gold, .23 cttw*

C. Tulip, Shared Prong. 14K White Gold, 36 cttw*

G. Rose, 6 Prong Solitaire. 14K White Gold

D. Wisteria, Marquise Halo. 14K White Gold, .49 cttw*

*Approximate estimate cttw


become.rareandforever.com/learn-more | 877.620.1333


ILLUSTRIOUS A DVA N TAG E O U S LUXURIOUS

W E D N E S D AY, J U N E 8 – M O N D AY, J U N E 1 3 , 2 0 2 2 THE VENETIAN | LAS VEGAS * B Y I N V I TAT I O N O N LY J U N E 8 & 9

LU X U RY2 0 2 2 .C O M


June 10 - 13, 2022

Visit

Village

FREE, multi-day Educational Seminars— learn to grow every aspect of your business. The most valuable information you’ll take home from JCK.

Getting to Know The Edge: Learn how key features of The Edge will help you in your day-to-day business. FRI - 3:00 pm • SAT - 12:00 noon SUN - 11:00 am • MON - 2:00 pm

The Edge Lenny Prion, Dir of Operations & Training sales@ajsllc.com • Booth: 59052 The Benefits of an Integrated Payment Gateway for Jewelry Businesses: Explore the latest payment trends in the jewelry industry and learn how an integrated payment processor can supercharge your jewelry business. FRI - 10:00 am • SAT - 1:30 pm SUN - 1:00 pm • MON - 12:00 noon

Cardknox Larry Wieder, Senior Sales Executive lwieder@cardknox.com • Booth: 59051

Drive More Repeat Purchases and Acquire New Customers in an Easy and Cost-Effective Way: Learn how 2,000+ Independent Jewelers drive retail sales with our marketing programs. FRI - 1:30 pm • SAT - 10:30 am SUN - 10:00 am • MON - 11:30 am

Drive Retail Tom Meyers, Owner/Chief Marketing Officer www.DriveRetail.com • Booth: 53043

Industry Insights: How to Use Data to Grow Your Business: Learn how you can identify risks, trends, and opportunities with retail data. FRI - 11:00 am • SAT - 2:30 pm SUN - 1:30 pm • MON - 11:00 am

Edge Retail Academy Sherry Smith and Becka Johnson Kibby Inquiries@EdgeRetailAcademy.com • Booth: 59052

Taking Your Jewelry Store to the Next Level: How to adapt to the new norm and take advantage to grow your jewelry store business. FRI - 10:30 am • SAT - 2:00 pm SUN - 12:00 noon • MON - 3:00 pm

GemFind Alex Fetanat, Founder sales@gemfind.com • Booth: 58055

Holiday Marketing Prep 101: From a checklist of key marketing tips to targeted social media campaigns, prepare your store for holiday 2022 success. FRI - 12:30 pm • SAT - 1:00 pm SUN - 11:30 am • MON - 10:30 am

Harmon Rick Arnemann, CEO RA@harmongrp.com

Booth: 59055


X

Tech Lounge

Seminars

59065

60061

59058 GemFind

On the lower level of the JCK Show.

Punchmark

59059

58055

Harmon 59055

Montage 60057

60056

The Edge, Booth 59052 Directions to the seminars will be located in The Edge Village.

Jewelers Mutual 57050

Grow your business with The Zing® Marketplace by Jewelers Mutual Group: Join this session for instruction on building your personal dashboard and streamline your day to day business through products that easily integrate with The Edge. FRI - 1:00 pm • SAT - 10:00 am SUN - 12:30 pm • MON - 3:30 pm Jewelers Mutual David McDonald, Sr Dir of Product Mgmt jewelersmutual.com • Booth: 58051 Revolutionize your Customer Experience with the Lux Digital Vault: Break the barrier and get in your client’s phone. This technology increases revenues, insures clients, and is your new store-branded app. FRI - 11:30 am • SAT - 3:00 pm SUN - 2:00 pm • MON - 2:30 pm

Luxsurance Stephen Alexander, CEO www.luxsurance.com • Booth: 58051

Jewelry & Watch Care Plans...an Amazing New Asset for your Business: How to give your customers peace of mind, create continued brand loyalty and make a positive impact to your bottom-line. FRI - 2:30 pm • SAT - 11:30 am SUN - 3:30 pm • MON - 1:00 pm

Montage Jewelry Care Nancy Getz, Business Development NancyGetz.Montage@outlook.com

Booth: 60056

58050

58051

Podium 58052

Cardknox 59051

The Edge 59052

Search to Sold: Learn how the power of texting and other channels can grow your bottom line–Get Found. Increase Reviews. Convert Leads. Send Text Campaigns. Collect Payments. And Save Time. FRI - 12:00 noon • SAT - 3:30 pm SUN - 2:30 pm • MON - 10:00 am

Podium Jesse Carrillo, Alliance Partner Dir Jesse.Carrillo@podium.com • Booth: 58052

How to Utilize your Website to Grow your Business: See in detail how some of the most forward-thinking retailers are using their websites to be successful in today’s ecommerce-driven world. FRI - 2:00 pm • SAT - 11:00 am SUN - 3:00 pm • MON - 12:30 pm

Punchmark Bryan Cockerham, CTO/Dir of Strategic Growth jck@punchmark.com • Booth: 60057

Instant Everything-What Millennials & GenZ’s Demand: Learn how you can implement a few strategies that meet the needs of this growing customer segment. FRI - 3:30 pm • SAT - 12:30 pm SUN - 10:30 am • MON - 1:30 pm

Zillion Jay Gerber, VP of Partnerships myzillion.com/jewelers • Booth: LUX100B


SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

92

D.C. JOHNSON LTD.

The store’s main seating area

Jewelry and watch expert David Johnson sees every facet of his luxury boutique as not only a reflection of what he does but also what he loves: art deco, the Jazz Age, and the edgy style of James Bond BY KAREN DYBIS

1700 W. LANE AVE., SUITE 200 COLUMBUS, OHIO

F

ROM THE FRONT door to the workshop in back, D.C. Johnson Ltd. is a blend of speakeasy and modern jewelry store sophistication. Before David Johnson took over the former Pilates studio in Columbus in the fall of 2018, the space underwent a complete renovation. For design inspiration, Johnson looked to the European jewelry stores he ­admired when he worked in Belgium and Switzerland at the beginning of his career. “There’s no signage,” Johnson says. “We don’t advertise. It’s all word of mouth. There are a lot of layers to it as you walk in through those secret doors.”

D.C. Johnson Ltd.’s David Johnson SUMMER 2022

An air of glamour and mystery settles on visitors as soon as they enter the boutique through an elegant portal boasting touches of gold, marble, and glass. The moment of truth, however, comes when they encounter the blue tufted-velvet double doors, which recall the ones that graced M’s fictional office. The color is a throwback to Johnson’s grandfather, who used blue-velvet boxes in his own jewelry business. “Those doors are in honor of my upbringing,” Johnson says. “I wouldn’t be in this business if it weren’t for his hard work.” The main client area occupies an open, airy room with wood floors and white walls that set off the mahogany JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT AND INTERIORS: REAGAN TAYLOR PHOTOGRAPHY

STYLISH SOPHISTICATION


Estella drop earrings by Erika Winters

(Below) The retailer’s signature solitaires; (bottom) a Single Stone cobblestone ring

“Here, it’s about the unveiling of the layers. Everyone’s experience with the space is unique.” —David Johnson

display cases. The seating area beckons with four camel-colored leather chairs and a coffee table always set with fresh flowers. A bar, with its discreet jewelry cases and counter-height stools, is wrapped in crushed tangerine velvet, an homage to the Hermès orange Johnson adores. That same orange is found in a conference room, where its deep hue is reflected in the deco-­ inspired light fixture. An adjacent bridal area with a cream-and-white palette features custom parquet floors, glass chandeliers, and romantic armoires. Couples can select their rings as they relax on cozy banquettes that can be pulled apart to create additional seating.

CURATED COLLECTIONS The boutique showcases the work of Johnson’s favorite ­jewelry designers, a veritable who’s who of the industry: ­Melissa Kaye, Nikos Koulis, Carolina Bucci, Marla Aaron, Single Stone, Erika Winters, Amáli, Eva Fehren, Sorellina, Silvia Furmanovich, Jennie Kwon, Goshwara, Gigi Clozeau, Mizuki, and Andrea Fohrman. “Our studio is built on the personal relationships with not only our clients but also the designers we work with,” Johnson says. “Our goal is to represent the best in jewelry with a roster that gives us an assortment of designers that play well together without ­overlapping. JCKONLINE.COM

The bridal section, which offers a view of the workbench

We are passionate about sharing the joy of jewelry with our clients and having extensive knowledge about each of our designer’s background, inspiration, and personality.”

A GRANDFATHER’S LEGACY Alongside the bridal area is a glass-and-metal wall that allows clients to peek into the jewelers workshop, where a master goldsmith works on repairs and bespoke commissions. The white walls and navy-blue cabinets continue the color theme, with the addition of butcher-block desktops and metal chairs. This workshop also is home to the original workbench used by Johnson’s grandfather. “We wanted it to be beautiful, open, and accessible,” Johnson says of the space. “It’s a ‘pulling the curtain back on Oz’ kind of thing.” Johnson’s office sits nearby, the windows made of reeded glass that provides light but also privacy. His desk is topped with leather, which was pristine when he installed it but now bears the wear and tear of his work. Its patina is echoed in the room’s cowhide rug and leather chairs. The office is bathed in a warm glow from the gold interior of the black light fixtures overhead. “Everything that we do as an industry is tactile—the touch, the feel,” Johnson says. “Here, it’s about the unveiling of the layers. Everyone’s experience with the space is unique.” DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

SUMMER 2022



95

the industry authority

SUMMER 2022

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK 1

2 3

OPPOSITES ATTRACT 1/ Atlantis MX pavé bracelet in 18k gold and black rhodium–plated silver; $15,900; Spinelli Kilcollin; 213-341-8244; spinellikilcollin.com

2/ Reine 18k yellow and white gold diamond earrings; $10,445; EÉRA; Instagram: @eera; eera.com

4 3/ Hawaii 18k yellow and white gold diamond earrings; $14,000; Buccellati; 212-308-2900; buccellati.com JCKONLINE.COM

5

4/ Duo 14k two-tone gold diamond chain-link ring; $3,775; Effy; 877-275-3339; effyjewelry.com

Mixing metals is back, especially in bold two-tone chain-link designs BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

5/ Two-tone 14k yellow gold large wheat chain necklace; $12,430; Lauren Rubinski; Instagram: @laurenrubinski; laurenrubinski.com


the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

96

18k yellow gold Ribbon ring with 1.17 ct. trillion diamond, 0.41 ct. t.w. baguette diamonds, and 0.24 ct. t.w. round diamonds; $35,800

A SELFMADE MAN BY KATHY HENDERSON

OMETIMES A SINGLE photograph can catapult a brand to cult status. Matthew Harris, known professionally as Mateo, vividly recalls waking up more than a decade ago to a Google Alert with Rihanna wearing a zipper necklace from the men’s jewelry line he introduced in 2009. “That’s when the madness started,” he says with a smile, still amazed that the superstar’s stylist had spotted a few of his pieces on display at the Manhattan vintage shop What Goes Around Comes Around. These days, Mateo’s baroque pearl drop earrings and diamond huggies can be spotted on A-listers ranging from Amanda Gorman to Michelle Obama to Zendaya. The success of Mateo New York proves there’s room in the jewelry industry for a self-taught designer who started small and built his brand through word of mouth and e-commerce. Since pivoting to women’s fine jewelry in 2014, the Jamaican-born Mateo has been unafraid to trust his instincts, both professionally and personally. His maverick moves include closing a SoHo boutique after two years when it became clear that a well-designed website could power sales; moving to Houston during the pandemic, even though he didn’t know a soul in Texas; and prioritizing reasonable prices while manufacturing 14k jewelry in New York City. “I’m not from the fashion world or the world of fine jewelry, so I took a different approach,” says Mateo, chatting about his company via Zoom from the SoHo Grand Hotel during a bimonthly business trip to New York. “I used to be a waiter here,” he adds slyly, “and I saved

SUMMER 2022

14k gold pearl Crescent Moon necklace with graduated cultured pearls and 0.38 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,325

14k gold Duality Pearl Drop earrings; $575; Mateo New York; meaghan@forfuture reference.com; mateonewyork.com

JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: GREGORY VAUGHAN

S

Matthew Harris taught himself to design jewelry, built a booming website business for his brand, and slowly but steadily continues to grow Mateo New York


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the look

98

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

14k gold and 0.42 ct. t.w. diamond Bypass bracelet; $5,500

“I hope to create the first Black heritage fine jewelry brand.” —Matthew “Mateo” Harris Lapis Gum Ball Drop necklace with diamonds on 24-inch 14k gold chain; $5,500

14k Gold Dot Mobile Ear Installation; $2,850

SUMMER 2022

every tip to fund my business.” Charming and unpretentious, the designer found an eager audience among stylists and editors on the lookout for unusual, beautifully constructed fine jewelry. “When I entered the marketplace, no one was doing affordable, personal jewelry,” Mateo says. ­“People identified with the simplicity of the brand and the fact that it’s made by a real person. It’s not some corporation or fancy establishment; it’s a little Black guy making cool jewelry.” The son of a dressmaker, Mateo left Jamaica for college but dropped out of a master’s degree program at Georgetown University in Washington, D.C., when he realized his future did not lie in hotel management. “I needed to pursue something I was passionate about,” he recalls, “and jewelry just happened to be it.” His friends expressed skepticism, and his mom was appalled; but Mateo, who had moved to Brooklyn, began making contacts in Manhattan’s jewelry district and studying YouTube how-to videos. “My first design sketches looked like a toddler drew them, but I understood what I wanted to do—make jewelry that I would want to wear.” His initial pieces—including tiny scissors and screw charms and the zipper that caught the eye of Rihanna’s stylist—were inspired by a tool kit. As he learned his craft, Mateo formed lasting relationships at long-established supply companies including A. Herschlag Inc. Findings and Myron Toback Inc. “I call Mr. Toback my foster father of jewelry,” he says fondly. “I met him when I didn’t know where to get chains and clasps; his staff is from Guyana, so there’s a familiarity in terms of culture. Whatever I need, they ship to my house in Texas.” Mateo’s bench jewelers on West 47th Street in New York City have been with him since the beginning. “We sit down together and go through the mechanisms of each piece,” he says. “It feels magical to make a sketch on a piece of paper and something fine and precious comes out. For me, that’s alchemy.” The brand got a boost in 2017 when it was chosen as a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist. Though his pieces have a sculptural quality reminiscent of favorite artists such as Alexander Calder and Wassily Kandinsky, Mateo describes himself as a minimalist. “Simplicity is just my aesthetic,” he says. “Even when it’s a bit dramatic, there’s an ease to my jewelry. It should become a part of the person who’s wearing it.” Leaning toward the camera, he shows off a gold choker tucked inside his crewneck sweater, a signet ring, and a pair of gold bands that read I Love You and Self Love. Prices begin at $325 for tiny diamond and gold bar studs and $395 for his popular malachite and diamond dot necklace, rising to more than JCKONLINE.COM



the look

100

DESIGNER SHOWCASE 14k gold and 0.72 ct. t.w. diamond frame crystal quartz Secret Diamond initial ring; $2,325

18k yellow gold Ribbon earrings with 3.42 cts. t.w. diamonds; $22,465

14k gold Graduated Malachite Hoop earrings with malachite drop and 0.62 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,800

SUMMER 2022

$4,000 for diamond hoops. At the request of ­Net-a-Porter, Mateo has developed a high jewelry line, but he won’t forsake his core customer, who he says skews young: “A girl who is 25 to 35 can go online, buy a piece of Mateo, and feel good about herself.” In addition to Net-a-Porter, Mateo New York is carried by web retailers such as Matches Fashion, Farfetch, Twist, and Saks.com, as well as the brand’s own sleek and carefully crafted website. “When I closed my store at the end of 2018, I spent an entire year building out our e-commerce,” Mateo says. “I do all the photography myself, all the retouching, all the creative direction. I sleep about four hours a night, which is probably bad, but I have a lot to get done!” The company keeps costs down by producing pieces to order for delivery in under three weeks. “We don’t stretch ourselves too thin, and our customers have learned to wait.” One secret to Mateo New York’s internet success is that the jewelry photographs exactly as it looks in real life. Best-selling crystal quartz Secret Diamond Initial rings ($2,325) and necklaces ($2,250) pop, both in photos

and on display at a midtown Manhattan showroom. The designer’s Little Things collection offers delicate pearl and diamond earrings and necklaces for under $1,000. Those with more colorful taste can choose rainbow drop earrings, cocktail rings, and bracelets with blue topaz, sapphires, and amethysts. Those initial rings and necklaces, pieces Mateo calls “our bread and butter,” are something of a fluke. He’d intended for the diamond letters to be hidden beneath darker stones, but when a sample was made in clear quartz, he took one look and proclaimed, “We have a winner.” New to the line is a bracelet with Love spelled in diamonds, which can be customized with any combination of three or four letters. Rather than introduce individual collections, Mateo adds five new pieces a month, continuing his slow and steady growth. “We’ve been self-funded from the start,” he says proudly. “I always advise people to start small and build their business one step at a time.” That’s not to say that Matthew Harris doesn’t dream big: “I hope to create the first Black heritage fine jewelry brand,” he declares. “That’s my dream. I want to do objects for the home; I want to do fragrance; I want to continue to design handbags; I’m moving back into men’s jewelry. But the core of my business is fine jewelry, and I want it to continue and grow.” Dividing his time between homes in Houston and Lisbon, Portugal (with previous stints living in Los Angeles and Luxembourg), may seem odd for a New York brand, but Mateo says his peripatetic life feeds his creativity. “It’s nice to go home and have space and peace—my mind is clear, and I can get my work done.” And when stylist Law Roach texts to ask for a ­special piece for Zendaya or Celine Dion, Mateo responds ­immediately. “I’ve built relationships over the past 10 years that have blossomed,” he says. “Everything has worked out organically, and I feel very fortunate.” JCKONLINE.COM



the look

RED CARPET

102

Arpeggia 9.5 cts. t.w. three-line diamond bracelet in 18k white gold; price on request; De Beers

Erica five-bar bracelet in 18k white gold with diamonds; $14,990; Ritique; lauren@ megamegaprojects. com; ritique.com

Pavéflex threerow bracelet with 4.57 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $17,000; David Yurman; 888-398-7626; davidyurman.com

UNDER $15,000

UNDER $20,000

The women of Steven Spielberg’s movie-musical remake were sartorial stars at the 2022 Academy Awards BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO SUMMER 2022

ARIANA DeBOSE On her way to the Oscars, DeBose racked up a slew of awards for her role as Anita—and also wore a parade of brightly hued, memorable gowns: strapless fuchsia Valentino at the SAG Awards; a high-slit electric yellow Oscar de la Renta, with a red flower, at the BAFTAs; a sculptural marigold Carolina Herrera at the Critics Choice Awards. Now, this glorious custom Valentino creation for the ­Oscars. Part gown, part tuxedo, the look—worn with De Beers diamond necklaces, rings, and a bracelet (80+ carats in all)—instantly became an Oscar classic.

JCKONLINE.COM

DeBOSE: MARK VON HOLDEN/A.M.P.A.S.

WEST SIDE GLORY



the Look

RED CARPET

104

Chain choker in 18k gold and diamonds in platinum by Paloma Picasso for Tiffany & Co., 1980

RACHEL ZEGLER The movie’s Maria may have scored a last-minute invite to the Oscars as a presenter, but there’s nothing slapdash about this look: a sheer (but not too sheer) Dior Couture gown and Tiffany & Co. jewelry. Zegler and her stylist, Sarah Slutsky, dug deep into the archives for that chic choker, a Paloma Picasso design dating back to 1980.

UNDER $250 Portia choker in 14k yellow gold– plated silver; $242; Jennifer Zeuner; 888-842-4590; jenniferzeuner.com

Twisted Horn ear clips in diamond and platinum; price on request; Verdura

At 90 years old, Moreno—the OG Oscar-winning Anita in the 1961 West Side Story—dazzled in a Carolina Herrera one-shoulder ruffled gown. Peeking out from beneath the dramatic feathered headpiece were a pair of equally dramatic Verdura open-hoop earrings. And if you haven’t seen the new WSS, keep an eye out for Moreno in a small but pivotal part.

SUMMER 2022

UNDER $20,000

ZEGLER: MARK VON HOLDEN/A.M.P.A.S.; MORENO: MICHAEL BAKER/A.M.P.A.S.

RITA MORENO

Olive Wreath diamond front-facing hoops in 18k white gold; $18,450; Madyha Farooqui; concierge@ madyhafarooqui.com; madyhafarooqui.com JCKONLINE.COM


18K GOLD 1.00 ctw 1.50 ctw 2.00 ctw 3.00 ctw 4.00 ctw 5.00 ctw

$ 990 $ 1.190 $ 1.450 $ 2.250 $ 2.800 $ 3.900

18K GOLD 3.00 ctw 4.00 ctw 5.00 ctw 6.00 ctw 7.00 ctw 8.00 ctw 9.00 ctw 10.00 ctw

$ 2.400 $ 2.800 $ 3.250 $ 3.700 $ 5.150 $ 5.750 $ 6.300 $ 7.100

JCK LAS VEGAS JUNE 10-13, 2022

BOOTH 49048

Visit us NEW YORK • LAS VEGAS • HONG KONG • ISTANBUL DUBAI • VICENZA • MIAMI

www.zendiamond.com

usa@zendiamond.com


the look

Q&A

106

Asks...

LIKA BEHAR

The Istanbul-born artist mixes silver with “soft, nimble, malleable, historic” high-karat gold IF YOU SAW our Look opener (“Opposites Attract”) a few ­pages back, you know mixing metals is hotter than ever. Lika Behar could have told you that years ago: Silver and gold ­pieces—22k and 24k yellow gold, which she says have an ­“absolutely beautiful natural color”—are her specialty. Her ­organic, beautifully shaped designs are instantly recognizable, whether they’re dotted with diamonds or assorted colored stones such as turquoise. At this year’s Luxury show, you can expect “a lot more color,” she says, “plenty of awesome tanzanites and emeralds, and some very unique pearl pieces.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: Who’s counting? Number of years in the biz: 14 Number of employees you oversee: 17 Family and pets: Married; two married sons, adore my ­daughters-in-law. Describe your personal style: Understated dress, fun ­accessories. Let the jewelry and accessories do the talking. First piece you ever designed: A two-tone peace sign with diamonds—so appropriate now. The single piece of jewelry you’re most proud of: It is a ­different one every day, but lately I am truly happy with the way my Machka Park bracelet—the way it opens and closes. It is so organic looking. Best piece of advice you ever received: “Never become set in your ways, but stay true to your own voice and aesthetic.” SUMMER 2022

22k yellow gold Evil Eye pendant with white gold tapered diamonds and blue sapphire eye

24k yellow gold one-of-a-kind freshwater pearl Lydia pendant with diamonds on vine

Worst piece of advice: “Do ‘x’ because everyone does it.” I get it all the time! First job ever: International economics analyst LOL! How did you get started designing jewelry? Quite by ­accident, upon the suggestion of a friend at a dinner party. Tried it for fun and the rest is history! If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Cooking. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Machka Park cuff (the initial prototype without the hinge), my wedding band, and my snake ring; an evil eye with tapered baguette mascara; and a long “crush” gold chain. On your desk right now: My laptop, beads, jewelry, and too many papers! Songs on your playlist: I use classical playlists from ­Spotify such as Opera Classics, Mozart Strings, Schubert Piano, ­Beethoven Symphonies. Exercise regimen: God, I have to push myself not to cancel on my trainer! I walk around the office with ankle weights. What did you have for breakfast? Hard-boiled eggs and plain yogurt, cherry tomatoes. Guilty pleasure: Gourmet food! Drink (daytime/evening): Coffee all day; at night bring on the wine, vodka, or a really smoky whisky such as Oban. First website you check every day (not your own!): Bloomberg. Scent: Chanel Allure Eau de Parfum. How do you unwind? I cook up a storm for family and friends. One must-visit spot for anyone traveling to Istanbul: I can’t pick favorites—it is a gorgeous city. A stroll by the Bosphorus, the Hagia Sophia [pictured ], the Iznik tiles in Rüstem Pasha Mosque. You must experience a hammam (Turkish bath). Book you’re reading: Beneath a Scarlet Sky by Mark Sullivan. Book you’ve been meaning to get to: Oh, there are so many! Favorite movie: Pride and Prejudice, the one with Keira Knightley [pictured ]. Who would play you in your life story? Renée Zellweger? Bette Midler? I dunno. Personal motto: “Work very hard, play even harder!” JCKONLINE.COM

HAGIA SOPHIA: TETRA IMAGES/GETTY; ZELLWEGER: FRAZER HARRISON/GETTY; PRIDE AND PREJUDICE: FOCUS FEATURES/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

24k gold and oxidized sterling silver Machka Park open cuff bracelet with diamonds


LAS VEGAS

DESIGN COLLECTIVE

BOOTH : 13049

/ crushjewelry

+90 532 231 97 38


Descending Choker wrap in 18k white gold with 21.21 cts. t.w. diamonds, $54,000, Yessayan, 718-722-0060, yessayan.us; 18k white and yellow gold earrings with 7.12 cts. t.w. diamonds, $27,030, Jye’s International, 415-6218880, jyescorp.com; 14k white gold huggies with 0.7 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,310, Gabriel & Co., 212-5191400, gabrielny.com; Devin ring with 2.32 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k Honey Gold, $26,200, Le Vian Couture, 516-466-7202, levian.com; 1.93 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold ring, $11,575, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry. com; 18k white gold ring with 0.62 ct. t.w. diamonds, $6,187, Yael, 415-989-9235, yaeldesigns.com; Old Meets New 14k white gold ring with 0.43 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,220, Just Jules, 480-8606211, justjules.com; 18k white and rose gold cuff with 7.05 cts. t.w. diamonds, $14,000, Okre by Yessayan, 718-722-0060, yessayan. us; Havana midi pavé link bracelet in tricolor 14k gold with 4.36 cts. t.w. diamonds, $9,300, bezel tennis bracelet with 7 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $18,860, Shy Creation, info@shycreation.com, shycreation.com; flexible bangle in 14k white gold with 1.66 cts. t.w. Caydia lab-grown diamonds, $1,669, Charles & Colvard, 800-210-4367, charlesandcolvard. com; Claudine bracelet with 16.11 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k Honey Gold, $75,350, Le Vian Couture; 18k white gold ring with 1.84 cts. t.w. diamonds, $16,150, Effy; Vintage Reimagined ring with 0.73 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold, $6,400, Just Jules; layered wide band 18k white gold ring with 1.79 cts. t.w. diamonds, $6,415, Gabriel & Co.


109

SPORTY TENNIS NECKLACES, ANYONE? WORK IT OUT IN THESE ATHLEISURE-FRIENDLY, SPORTSWEAR-CHIC DIAMOND JEWELS THAT ARE PERFECT FOR ANYONE ON THE GO. (JUST TAKE THEM OFF BEFORE SWIMMING, PLEASE.)

ICE Photography b y Jason Kim St ylist Daniel Edley / Jewelr y editor Rima Suqi


18k yellow gold link necklace with 1.25 cts. t.w. diamonds, from $13,998, Herco, 415-543-1580, herco.com; Anabelle necklace in 18k Honey Gold with 14.75 cts. t.w. diamonds, $32,148, Le Vian Couture, 516-466-7202, levian.com; London ear cuff in 14k yellow gold with 0.49 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,298, Adina Reyter, 818-904-2900, adinareyter.com; earrings with 2.15 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $7,695, Doves by Doron Paloma, 888-663-6837, dovesjewelry.com; hammered Double Circle 14k yellow gold ring with 1 ct. t.w. black and white diamonds, $4,200, Kimberly Elliott for Oro Alexander, 800-782-1231, oroalexander.com; contemporary diamond station wide band ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.39 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,105, Gabriel & Co., 212-5191400, gabrielny.com; 18k yellow gold diamond ring with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $2,495, Ashi Couture, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds. com; All That Is 18k yellow and white gold pinky ring with 0.58 ct. diamonds, $16,900, Nina Runsdorf, 212-382-1243, ninarunsdorf. com; Puffy ring with 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $4,960, Dana Bronfman, 650-269-1101, danabronfman.com; Multi-row Wave ring in 14k gold with 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,800, Kimberly Elliott for Oro Alexander; 0.26 ct. t.w. Diamond Bubble ring in 14k yellow gold, $1,790, 1.03 cts. t.w. Diamond Bridge ring in 14k yellow gold, $2,490, Shy Creation, info@ shycreation.com, shycreation.com


18k white and rose gold choker with 10.47 cts. t.w. diamonds, $20,000, Okre by Yessayan, 718-722-0060, yessayan.us; Arch deco earrings in 18k white gold with 5.03 cts. t.w. diamonds and 5.1 cts. t.w. rubies, $10,850, Umrao, 212-575-4727; Pink Cloud ring with 1.1 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k rose gold, $27,000, Blue Cloud ring with 3.68 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k white gold, $95,000, Scott West, 212-997-0940, ljwestdiamonds. com; Oriane ring in platinum and 18k Honey Gold with 8.99 cts. t.w. diamonds, $215,150, Le Vian Haute Couture, 516-466-7202, levian. com; Mixshape bracelet with 10.79 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, price on request, Nina Runsdorf, 212-382-1243, ninarunsdorf.com; 14k yellow gold bracelet with 8.5 cts. t.w. Caydia lab-grown diamonds, $6,589, Charles & Colvard, 800-210-4367, charlesandcolvard. com; Mikaela bracelet with 21.56 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k Honey Gold, $284,200, Le Vian Haute Couture; 14k white and yellow gold ring with 0.52 ct. t.w. diamonds, $5,175, Effy, 877-2753339, effyjewelry.com


112 Diamond Wonder Women Threads in 14k reclaimed and recycled white gold with 1.2 cts. t.w. diamonds, $1,250 each (sold as single), KBH Jewels, 201-694-6869, kbhjewels. com; 19.3 cts. t.w. diamond pavé link necklace in 14k white gold, $39,800, Shy Creation, info@ shycreation.com, shycreation.com; tennis bracelet in 18k white gold with 17.2 cts. t.w. diamonds, $111,575, Effy, 877-275-3339, effyjewelry. com; platinum bracelet with 12.49 cts. t.w. diamonds, $84,428, Christopher Designs, 800-9550970, christopherdesigns.com; 14k white gold Crown ring with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,950, Dilamani, 516-466-6767, dilamani.com; ring with 2.1 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold, $15,625, Effy; Empress ring in 14k tricolor gold with 1.81 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,500, Bellarri, 800-255-0192, bellarri.com; Cleo Jazz Statement 18k white gold bracelet with 11.94 cts. t.w. tanzanite, 5 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 1.28 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, $34,500, Marli New York, 646-370-4982, marlinewyork. com; Confetti bangle with 1.88 cts. t.w. diamonds in brushed satin 14k white gold, price on request, Dilamani


Earrings in 18k white gold with 6.64 cts. t.w. diamonds and 1.8 cts. t.w. onyx, $9,500, Umrao, 212-575-4727; 18k white gold necklace with 12.85 cts. t.w. diamonds, $35,995, Ashi Couture, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds. com; 18k white gold necklace with 15.57 cts. t.w. diamonds, $239,000, Christopher Designs, 800-9550970, christopherdesigns.com; 14k white gold tennis necklace with 15.5 cts. t.w. diamonds, $37,399, bezel-set expandable bracelet in 14k white gold with 3.2 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,599, Facet Barcelona, 212302-8200, facetbarcelona.com; 14k white gold ring with 1.92 cts. t.w. diamonds, $15,925, Effy, 877-2753339, effyjewelry.com; emerald-cut platinum tennis bracelet with 33.18 cts. t.w. diamonds, price on request, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-622-9866, rahaminov.com; platinum bracelet with 8.11 cts. t.w. diamonds, $74,150, Christopher Designs; 13-row Velvet bracelet with 16 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, $32,999, Facet Barcelona; bracelet with 5.05 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold, $13,170, Shy Creation, info@ shycreation.com, shycreation.com


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Diamond Magnum Orb earrings with 2 cts. t.w. diamonds in 14k reclaimed and recycled yellow gold, $4,500, KBH Jewels, 201-6946869, kbhjewels.com; Illusion Quatro ring with 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $5,990, Ritique, lauren@megamegaprojects.com, ritique.com; pear-shape bezel halo ring with 5.15 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $195,000, Rahaminov Diamonds, 213-6229866, rahaminov.com; Queens signet ring with 0.84 ct. t.w. black diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $3,200, Queens signet ring with 0.84 ct. t.w. white diamonds in 14k yellow gold, $3,500, Hi June Parker, 646-704-6367, hijuneparker.com; Double Trouble ring in platinum and 18k yellow gold with 4.11 cts. t.w. diamonds, $134,150, Rahaminov Diamonds; Serti Sur Vide 18k pink gold ring with 1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $12,600, Repossi, 917499-9173, repossi.com; Anastasia ring with 7.75 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k Honey Gold, $174,900, Le Vian Haute Couture, 516-466-7202, levian.com


HAIR: KIYONORI SUDO USING ORIBE AT L’ATELIER NYC; MAKEUP: LINDA GRADIN USING M·A·C AT L’ATELIER NYC; MANICURIST: HONEY USING LONDONTOWN USA, “NAIL VEIL #3” FOR EXPOSURE; CLOTHING: (LOOK 1) JACKET, SPORTS BRA, LEGGINGS: STELLA McCARTNEY FOR ADIDAS; SNEAKERS: ADIDAS; (LOOK 2) HOODIE AND SPORTS BRA: ADIDAS; (LOOK 3) SPORTS BRA: STELLA McCARTNEY FOR ADIDAS; (LOOK 4) MESH SHIRT, SPORTS BRA, SUNGLASSES: NIKE; (LOOK 5) VEST, SPORTS BRA, SHORTS, LEGGINGS, SLEEVES: NIKE; (LOOK 6) SPORTS BRA: STELLA McCARTNEY FOR ADIDAS; GLOVES: NIKE; (LOOK 7) SPORTS BRA: STELLA McCARTNEY FOR ADIDAS

Platinum earrings with 10.74 cts. t.w. diamonds, $77,800, Cicada, 212-575-2859, cicadajewelry.com; 18k white gold Wing earrings with 4.5 cts. t.w. diamonds and 5 cts. t.w. emeralds, $50,000, Umrao, 212-575-4727; Florette choker with 26.01 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, price on request, Dilamani, 516-466-6767, dilamani. com; Mixshape necklace with 20.1 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold, price on request, Nina Runsdorf, 212-382-1243, ninarunsdorf.com; 18k white gold necklace with 4.65 cts. t.w. diamonds, $18,900, Ashi Couture, 212-319-8291, ashidiamonds.com; 18k white gold bracelet with 16.14 cts. t.w. diamonds, $68,000, Andreoli Italian Jewelry, 212-582-2050, andreolijewelry.com; platinum ring with 8.36 cts. t.w. diamonds, $270,000, Christopher Designs, 800-955-0970, christopherdesigns.com


(Top to bottom) Lexington chain necklace in 18k yellow gold, $26,000, David Yurman, 888-3987626, davidyurman. com; 18-inch 18k yellow gold elongated paper-clip

necklace, $3,550, Doves by Doron Paloma, 888-6636837, dovesjewelry. com; 16.5-inch 14k yellow gold chain, $14,910, 18-inch 14k yellow gold chain, $9,291, Herco, 415543-1580, herco.com


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ON THIS SEASON’S MUST-BUY GOLD LIST? COOL CHAIN LINKS, KNIFE-EDGE STYLES & MEN’S STAPLES, TO NAME JUST A FEW. Photography by Stephen Lewis P r o p s t y l i s t P e t e r Tr a n Jewelry editor Rima Suqi


T H E G I L D E D A G E

Golden Girl bangle with 0.62 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $6,800; Eden Presley; sales@edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com


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Astrid ring with 0.162 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $4,900, Temple St. Clair, 212219-8664, sales@ templestclair.com, templestclair.com Pisces medallion necklace in 14k yellow gold with 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,450, KC Designs, 800-552-3790, kcdesignsnyc.com


T H E G I L D E D A G E

Crownwork Snake ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.1 ct. t.w. emeralds; $3,490; Ray Griffiths Fine Jewelry; 212-689-7209; raygriffiths.com


121 Single Stack Hexagon Gemstone Bolt pendant in 14k yellow gold with 7.7 ct. lapis, $1,072; 14k yellow gold Ruby Skull charm with movable jaw and 0.5 ct. t.w. ruby eyes, $1,270; Roller ring in 14k yellow gold with 2 cts. t.w. baguette diamonds, from $5,870; 14k yellow gold 24-inch chains, $1,130 each; Luis Morais; 305-6952830; luismorais.com


fall fashion preview 2022

F A S H I O N S T A T E M E N T A

FASHION SHOW IN a snow globe… On paper, the premise conjures up a wondrous and charming scene. The pang of nostalgic delight is almost Pavlovian, evoking the holidays, Mary Poppins, childhood, music-box melodies, and all that. But the glassed-in spectacle Demna gave us at Balenciaga? It clutched at the heart, terrifyingly, with a viselike grip. The models pushed against a whirling vortex of fake snow, struggling into the wind. Some wore nothing more than shorts and a towel; others carried leather totes patterned after trash bags. Most were just blurry silhouettes. The effect was unsettling, tense. We’ll cut to the chase: Russia had just invaded Ukraine. You couldn’t help but connect the proverbial dots. Fashions, trends, suits, and sequins versus broken families and fleeing refugees—how do you reconcile the two? That was the question that hung over the fall 2022 collections. In the initial days, the industry response—or nonresponse— was jarring. At Prada, a handful of protesters holding the Ukrainian flag stood outside the venue—outnumbered by the usual gawkers and street-style hordes. Social feeds were a

schizophrenic mix of agony and adulation. Giorgio Armani was the first major designer to acknowledge the dissonance and held his show in silence—three days after the attacks began. In Paris, runways planned months in advance were suddenly cast in a new light. Take the armorlike motifs at Balmain. Or Nicolas Ghesquière talking about freedom in a Louis Vuitton collection inspired by adolescence. Or that Balenciaga show in a snow globe, which was initially a musing on climate change. Demna, who had escaped his native Georgia when Russia invaded in the early ’90s, said he considered calling everything off. “But then I realized that cancelling,” he wrote in the show notes, “would mean giving in, surrendering to the evil that has already hurt me so much for almost 30 years.” Instead, he dedicated the event to fearlessness, resistance, love, and peace. I thought back to a note left on the chairs at Proenza Schouler in New York City, weeks before the world was upended. It included a short story by Ottessa Moshfegh, and one line stood out now: “How do we find beauty in the chaos and use it as a creative starting point to build the future?” She titled the piece “Where Will We Go Next?”

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t was a strangely quiet show season, even before the shadow of war loomed large. Don’t forget that, a month before its start, the omicron variant of the coronavirus was toppling expectations of a full-speedahead return to life. The riotous good time would just have to wait a little longer. That’s not to say less-is-more translates to less allure. In fact, one of the most refreshing trends to appear was a turn toward elegant restraint, the equivalent of a whisper that stirs the senses more than a shout. Consider the thin, elongated earrings at Sportmax and Roksanda, or the gently suspended pearl drops seen at Erdem. Even showmen Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana leaned into the graceful, linear motif with a simple baguetteand-pearl necklace—paired with a sheer gown with linebacker shoulders, no less. Ditto Christian Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri, who had a single strand of pearls hanging from a slim choker (pictured), and Delfina Delettrez’s superfine designs at Fendi (F-shaped ear climbers, negligee necklaces) that underscored the collection’s airy, delicate vibe (gossamer dresses, lingerie details). Our favorite? The preview we caught of the upcoming Sacai and Cartier collaboration: Designer Chitose Abe deconstructed the latter’s Trinity series into a minimalist study of curves, contours, and lines. —1— Triple Pearl Scarpa earrings with diamonds in recycled 14k yellow gold; $565 each (sold as single); White/ Space; info@whitespacejewelry. com; whitespacejewelry.com

—2— Two in One Contrariè ring in 18k responsibly sourced gold with diamonds; €2,000 ($2,209); Delfina Delettrez; info@delfinadelettrez. com; delfinadelettrez.com

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A FINE LINE 4 5 —3— Privé one-of-a-kind akoya pearl and black inverted full-cut diamond earrings; $12,900; Mizuki; hello@mizukijewels.com; mizukijewels.com

—4— Rhyme Major earrings with 8 mm white South Sea pearls and diamonds in 18k gold; $7,800; State Property; team@thisisstateproperty. com; thisisstateproperty.com

—5— Square Leaf necklace with South Sea and akoya pearls in 18k yellow gold; price on request; M/G Tasaki; info@melaniegeorgacopoulos.com; melaniegeorgacopoulos.com


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—1— Italian-made sterling silver Cleopatra necklace; $370; Royal Chain; 800-622-0960; royalchain.com

—2— Wave bands in 18k yellow gold; $1,200–$3,300; Marlo Laz; sales@marlolaz.com; marlolaz.com

—3— Una ring in 18k gold and silver; $1,820; Kloto; info@kloto.com.tr; kloto.com

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ess-is-more marked another of fall 2022’s major motifs: sleek and streamlined metal. It was the defining trend of the season, seen throughout the show circuit in New York, London, Milan, and Paris. Surprisingly—and happily—for such a reductive trend, we got a fantastic range of looks: from futuristic (massive angular cuffs at Rick Owens, pictured here) to spare (Jil Sander’s hoops and disk earrings; the armbands at Koché) to artful (Stella McCartney’s open-collar necklaces in a collection inspired by Frank Stella) to downright glamorous (Lanvin’s pendulous gold drop earrings). The trend played off the clean, architectural lines sent out on runway after runway, including the major tailoring moment. Plus, all the focus on hard, sculptural metals offered a chic counterpoint to the swaddling, earthy knits and padded and puffy volumes. Prefer the maximalist route to minimalism? You can pile on the pieces like the models at Saint Laurent—styled in body-skimming dresses, great leather jackets, and cocooning coats, they channeled a sci-fi Nancy Cunard and stacked the cool cuffs high.

—4— Arc earring in 14k gold–plated bronze; $144; Lady Grey; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; ladygreyjewelry.com

—5— Bast cuff in brass, $550, in sterling silver, $1,395; Ariana Boussard-Reifel; ariana@arianaboussardreifel.com; arianaboussardreifel.com

MODEL: IMAXTREE; BOUSSARD-REIFEL CUFFS: GENEVIEVE HANSEN

METAL POWER

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hen it comes to florals, let’s eliminate the seasonal stereotypes. Because they’ve become a yearround affair and, for fall, a muchneeded shot of cheer to shake up the cold-weather outlook—with jewelry following suit. There they were at Ulla Johnson’s bohemian outing—a beautiful cocktail of blooms dangling from the ears—and at Carolina Herrera and Brandon Maxwell, which featured stunning sculpted versions in gold and silver, the latter wrapped corsage-style around the wrist. Fausto Puglisi at Roberto Cavalli added an element of tough-chic with chain-link details and Miu Miu’s Miuccia Prada, a playful teen spirit with flowers and pills on candy-colored necklaces. But the nature beat didn’t stop there. We saw plenty of animal themes, from LaQuan Smith’s hefty feline pendant to Bora Aksu’s dragonfly and bee brooches. What felt particularly new, however, were the marine motifs, including the lovely charm necklaces, dangling with seashells, at Altuzarra and the statement conch pendants at Connor Ives. Dries Van Noten (pictured), meanwhile, had us swooning: His brilliant mashup of florals and animal prints, including trompe l’oeil “snakeskin” made from leather sequins, came accessorized with breathtaking necklaces of crystals, seashells, and agate, and exquisitely embroidered butterfly chokers.

—1— Venym brooch with tsavorite, yellow sapphires, and ruby eyes in 18k yellow gold; £14,500 ($19,113); Theo Fennell; 44-207591-5003; theofennell.com

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—2— Fish earrings with enamel, amethysts, garnets, peridot, citrine, blue topaz, pearls, and micro-pearls in vermeil; €1,800 ($1,978); Percossi Papi; 39-066-880-1466; percossipapi.com

5 —3— Sedna ring in 18k pink gold with opal, amethysts, and green sapphires; price on request; Daniela Villegas; sharifa@danielavillegas. com; IG: @danielavillegasjewelry

—4— Buriti Botanica earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds and removable backplate; $4,830; Carol Kauffmann Jewellery; nina@theagencyconnect. com; carolkauffmann.com

—5— Shell brooch in black and white enamel and 18k yellow gold; $18,500; David Webb; 212-421-3030; davidwebb.com


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—1— Multi-charm Balance Drop earrings in ethically sourced 18k vermeil with cameo, chrysoprase, phosphosiderite, and more; £1,560 ($2,056); Grainne Morton; grainne@grainnemorton. co.uk; grainnemorton.co.uk

—2— Emily’s Garden Collet necklace in 14k gold with multicolored tourmaline; $12,000; Larkspur & Hawk; wholesale@larkspurandhawk.com; larkspurandhawk.com

—3— Kyoto collection ring in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, pink sapphires, and Japanese pearls; $5,900; Moksh; info@mokshjewellery.com; IG: @jewelsbymoksh

hile designers may have toned down the demonstrative grandeur and glitz—Moschino’s literal chandelier earrings notwithstanding— the shows still delivered an estate sale’s worth of tony, old-school jewelry. Think cameos, rhinestone dazzlers, pearls, and colored gemstones galore. We’re talking about Andrew Gn, Naeem Khan, Oscar de la Renta, Prabal Gurung, Simone Rocha (pictured)… the list goes on. Chanel, meanwhile, doubled down on the ladies-who-lunch concept with gold statement cuffs with bits of nubby tweeds and its iconic quilted bag shrunken into tiny pendant charms. The mood was less outrageous and over-the-top than we’ve seen before and more, well, directly polished and pulled together. But a funny thing happened the more you dug into the collections. That sophisticated vibe? You realized designers were having fun with the Upper East Side POV in a deliciously postmodern way, too. Those demure pearl drop earrings at Tory Burch— they’re actually papier-mâché. And weren’t those pearl rings and charmed necklaces at Versace, in plumped-up proportions, almost cartoonlike? It was akin to discovering the marvelous lace gowns at Mame Kurogouchi were made from shoelaces—or, to use another jewelry example, seeing Givenchy’s Matthew Williams serve up the iconic Breakfast at Tiffany’s pearls in matte black. “Nothing is too precious,” he explained.

—4— Fragrant Concubine ring in 18k gold with diamonds, sapphires, apatites, aquamarines, cavansite, and enamel; price on request; Lydia Courteille; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; lydiacourteille.com

—5— Platinum antique Decadence earrings with old mine–cut diamonds; price on request; Thelma West; tw@thelmawest. com; thelmawest.com

MODEL: IMAXTREE

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ashion loves a good contrast—high/ low, feminine/masculine, cool/ classic. Which is what makes this next trend so compelling. It’s part of the minimalist metal motif a few pages back, but not quite. It skews to nature, but not literally. It’s both hard and soft, shapeless but sculptural. The style encompasses that nebulous abstract aesthetic better known as biomorphic. Trust us when we say it’s a lot sexier than it sounds. There’s an intimate warmth to these pieces; you can see the artisan’s hand in them and, at times, the contours of the body mirrored in its curves and valleys. Take, for example, the Jean Arp–esque shapes at Tanya Taylor (those multi-drop earrings), Loewe (the amorphous gold cuff ), and Proenza Schouler (the molded brooches, pictured). Or the curvilinear forms capping the ends of an open-collar necklace at Yuhan Wang. Or the bulbous earrings and textured cuffs at Colville, fossilized with tiny resin and turquoise stones. Equal parts strength and femininity, the look is elemental and spontaneous. Like we mentioned: pure seduction.

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—2— White topaz ring in 14k gold– plated brass; $265; Bounkit; 212-244-1877; bounkit.com

—3— Twisted Gold Folded Ribbon earring in 14k gold–plated brass; $175; Alexis Bittar; 888-8077780; alexisbittar.com

—4— Recycled platinum and graduated sapphire Curved Forms ring; price on request; Liv Luttrell; enquiries@livluttrell.com; livluttrell.com

—5— Final Collection 18k yellow gold necklace with turquoise, blue Montana sapphires, and diamonds; $110,000; Pamela Huizenga; 772-871-0033; pamelahuizenga.com


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1. The high-flying Liftoff at AREA15 2. A scene from the AR/VR exhibit Arcadia Earth 3. Derek Hough and Hayley Erbert strike a pose in No Limit. 4. The bounteous buffet at the TAO Beach Club

5. The perfumeinfused Stepford Wife cocktail at Delilah 6. The very 2022 burlesque show Rated Red 7. The Care Bear Stare, one of the boozy slushies at Emporium Arcade at AREA15

by Matt Villano

2: DAVID MITCHELL; 3: PGPHOTO.INFO

VEGAS HAS ADDED PLENTY OF COOL STUFF SINCE LAST YEAR’S JCK SHOW. MAKE TIME TO EXPLORE—AND MAKE YOUR RESERVATIONS NOW.


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NOTHER YEAR, ANOTHER JCK show in Las Vegas, the entertainment capital of the world. After two years of drama surrounding COVID-19, there’s a sense that this year’s JCK will be a real return to the shows of old—great product and inspiring designs on the show floor by day, stellar restaurants and recreation around town by night. True to form, in the 10 months since the last show, Las Vegas has added some legitimately cool and one-of-a-kind eateries, experiences, and attractions. Let the planning begin!

4: SHANE O’NEAL; 5: BILL MILNE

CLOSE TO HOME

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As usual, the JCK and Luxury shows will be at The Venetian, which has added several attractions since we were all in town for last year’s event. No. 1 on the list: the Tree Bar at SushiSamba in the Grand Canal Shoppes inside The Venetian. As the name suggests, the centerpiece of this bar is a tree sculpture designed with autumnal hues and sparkling lights. The bar has its own food menu of small plates, robata, and sashimi ceviche and a full spate of cocktail options. It’s a great place to sit, snack, sip, and people-watch. The resort also recently unveiled a dramatic redesign of its pool deck, with a vibe that takes design cues from the Italian Riviera, including sculptural art pieces and quaint gardens, to provide the worldly look and feel of a European


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8. Healthful spa food at Truth & Tonic 9. The Venetian’s revamped pool deck 10. The Tree Bar at SushiSamba 11. Grasshopper Baked Alaska at… 11

12. Delilah, Wynn’s art deco– styled supper club 13. Stuffed zucchini blossoms at Crossroads Kitchen in Resorts World

14. Clam Pie at the Cosmopolitan’s Superfrico 15. The Isabella at Resorts World’s Bar Zazu 16. Creamed corn at Delilah

8: KEY LIME PHOTOGRAPHY; 9: GOAT RODEO PRODUCTIONS/ THOMAS HART SHELBY; 11: BILL MILNE; 12: ROBERT MILLER

Visiting Las Vegas always has been a sensory experience. Now that just means something more.


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in 2019; Truth & Tonic is located inside Canyon Ranch Spa at The Venetian, and currently is open for breakfast, lunch, and brunch.) Also new at Resorts World is Bar Zazu, a swanky and exclusive lounge from Nicole Brisson and her team at Brezza next door. Cocktails are the main attraction at Zazu—many feature freshly grown herbs and flowers. (Try the Isabella with Lunazul Blanco tequila, Aperol, lime, passion fruit, and mole spice.) The food is a close second; as basic as it might seem, the lightly battered and fried tempura broccolini is one of the best dishes anywhere in Las Vegas right now. New restaurants are also on the menu at Wynn and Encore Las Vegas (even closer to The Venetian!). At Wynn, Delilah replicates a supper club from yesteryear, complete with an art deco vibe and food options that include beef Wellington, shrimp Louie, and more. At Encore, Casa Playa serves up a modern spin on classic Mexican food. Resident mixology guru Mariena Mercer Boarini has crafted special cocktail menus for both spots; be sure to try the drinks with edible perfume (yes, really). Finally, the dining experience at Superfrico inside The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas mixes traditional Italian-American dishes such as chicken Parmesan with all sorts of modern art and performance art. This space comprises a series of smaller rooms mocked up to play out like self-contained worlds. The Artery offers a dining room filled with Technicolor art, while The Studio brings a deejay spinning as diners sit down for a meal or grab a drink at the bar. The Ski Lodge, designed to emulate an après-ski cocktail bar, features a fireplace and a picture window overlooking winter skiing destinations. The Bottle-O sells house-blended and -bottled cocktail flasks and small-batch beverages in a gift-shop setting.

ALL ART, ALL THE TIME

escape. (For you big spenders, there also are 10 amazing premium cabanas.) Equally beautiful: the dancing (and, let’s be honest, the abs) of Derek Hough, the six-time Dancing With the Stars champ whose show, No Limit, runs through September in the Venetian’s Summit Showroom. Estiatorio Milos, the exquisite Greek restaurant located in Restaurant Row ­between The Venetian and The Palazzo (and directly across from the entrance to the convention area), still has the best lunch in town: $38 for a three-course meal that includes a starter, a main, and dessert. Finally, the new-and-improved TAO Beach Dayclub, slated to open in April, is expected to be thumping.

13: CROSSROADS; 14: MARK MEDIANA; 15: SABIN ORR

NEW AND UNIQUE PLACES TO EAT Prior to the pandemic, just about all the best restaurants in Las Vegas were located off Las Vegas Boulevard (aka The Strip). While this is still true to some extent, overall the city’s dining scene has changed dramatically, and a handful of new Strip eateries are getting attention and accolades from those in the know. At the top of this list: Crossroads Kitchen, set to open in May at Resorts World Las Vegas, just a short walk from The Venetian. Crossroads is a Los Angeles staple, and this iteration represents the first location outside SoCal. It also is the first fully plant-based fine-dining restaurant ever to open on the Las Vegas Strip. Founder and chef Tal Ronnen and executive chef Paul Zlatos run the kitchen here, serving the restaurant’s signature dishes, including stuffed zucchini blossoms, beet tartare, and house-made pastas such as tagliatelle Bolognese and fettuccine with truffles. The local menu features some items that are uniquely Vegas—plants dressed up to look like more than plants, in a sort of culinary sleight of hand. (In case you’re wondering, the first fully vegan restaurant on The Strip opened

We mentioned AREA15 last year. Since then, the art and entertainment destination has added more features, and some already have achieved must-see status. Lost Spirits, for example, is a cross between a distillery tour, Burning Man, vaudeville, and Disneyland—a wacky experience that includes real-life performers, state-of-the-art spirits processing, and sets that rival the kind of stuff you’d find backstage at the Metropolitan Opera. Guests taste five kinds of rum; the two-hour tour begins with a rickshaw ride and ends in a “submarine” with “wildlife” passing by outside. Inside tip: Ticket confirmations warn guests not to pregame. For the sake of your shoes, do not ignore these warnings. Liftoff, which opened in February, is an aeronaut-themed, 16-seat bar that takes drinkers 115 feet into the sky and keeps them there for seven minutes before bringing them down to Earth. For those who want to mix sex with art, Rated Red is a new spin on burlesque— one that includes men, women, and nonbinary individuals, and plays with gender in a way that is positive, sultry, and utterly fantastical. Of course, other attractions at AREA15 include Omega Mart, an interactive supermarket and playground from Meow Wolf; Wink World, a series of infinity rooms from Chris Wink, one of the founders of Blue Man Group; and Emporium, a rollicking arcade and sports bar that features original graffiti from 12 local artists.

VIRTUAL TOURS Vegas wouldn’t be Vegas without over-the-top experiences, and two new augmentedreality attractions on the south end of Las Vegas Boulevard fit this bill. Arcadia Earth teaches about climate change and comprises 14 walk-through galleries that depict various aspects of life on Earth. The exhibit is a mix of augmented reality, virtual reality, and projection mapping. At one moment, in a room that mimics life underwater, you feel as if you’re being circled by sharks. The other immersive exhibit, FlyOver Las Vegas, incorporates the same technology used in Disneyland’s Soarin’ Around the World attraction to take guests on a feet-dangling, IMAX-style “flightseeing” tour of the American West. At various points in the FlyOver ride, you feel a shock of cold air and a refreshing mist. Visiting Las Vegas always has been a sensory experience. Now that just means something more.


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LUXURY’S NEW LOOK C O N S C I O U S , S U S TA I N A B L E , A N D

ETHICAL ARE BUZZWORDS—BUT THEY A L S O P O I N T TO A F U N D A M E N TA L S H I F T I N H OW C O N S U M E R S D E F I N E L U X U R Y. JUST ASK GEN Z. b y Ta n y a D u k e s


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KIM THE FRONT page of any newspaper, Twitter feed, or highly unscientific straw poll, and it’s evident that business isn’t operating as usual. A collage of influences—the pandemic, social justice movements, and the rise of vocal and diverse Generation Z consumers—is transforming how virtually every aspect of the world works. And the luxury and jewelry sectors are not immune to the changes. “Brands are keenly aware that the entire supply chain, from raw ­materials to distribution, has to be environmentally sustainable and just, along with equitable and respectful to the people doing the work and the communities around them,” says Milton Pedraza, CEO of the New York City–based Luxury Institute. Whereas past generations defined luxury as a function of e­ xclusivity and prestige, Generations Y and Z have a fundamentally different ­understanding of the concept. “The neuron connections of young people across the world are reconnected differently,” Pedraza says. “They understand the urgency for their future and their children’s future to have a lot of environmental and societal changes. There’s traction that’s inescapable. “The upside of change: It’s good and profitable to be good to societies, the environment, and human beings,” he adds. “It builds brand equity and inspires loyalty in associates [and] among consumers, and it inspires towns and municipalities to host you and give you tax incentives.”

(From l.) The Alchemist of Light Atomique Collar necklace in 18k white gold with 71.48 cts. t.w. diamonds; Atomique Double Ring in 18k white gold with 3.83 cts. t.w. diamonds; Atomique Cuff in 18k white gold with 12.51 cts. t.w. diamonds; all prices on request; De Beers Jewellers; clientservices@ debeers.com; debeers.com


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FIXING THE FUTURE Last year, diamond giant De Beers began charting its own progress toward addressing matters including climate change, inclusivity, and community partnerships with a framework called “Building Forever,” a means to “set objectives for the decade to come,” according to Stephen Lussier, De Beers’ outgoing executive vice president for brands and consumer markets. “It’s always important that we have a positive impact where we operate, but the biggest evolution is setting hard targets for what we would achieve by 2030,” Lussier tells JCK. Those 10-year goals include becoming carbon-­neutral across the company’s operations and increasing the ­diversity of creative talent in the diamond jewelry sector. “The pandemic taught us that we are connected; there’s an interconnectedness in the world,” Lussier says. “What happens in one place can have quite a significant impact anywhere in the world. That has changed the mindset, especially about the climate agenda and similarly on inequality. There’s nothing particularly controversial about the objectives. We’re focusing on core issues the world needs to solve.” Still, the company is taking care to separate its messages regarding the fundamental desirability of ­diamonds from information that “facilitates attraction to the category.” The Building Forever material falls into the latter category. “The Building Forever space is the thing that

makes diamonds feel that they exist in a world that consumers are proud to be associated with,” Lussier says.

IF YOU BUILD IT… Bob Donofrio, the founder of Futura Jewelry in New York City, has a long view of the future. When he introduced the brand in 2017, he inverted the priorities of many entrepreneurs. “My mission is communication first, selling jewelry second,” he says. Donofrio’s messaging calls attention to toxins used in artisanal and small-scale gold mining and supports alternative practices for such mining operations. “We have to make the same thing happen for gold as conflict diamonds,” he says. “Consumers can make things change.” The brand features jewelry made with 18k certified Fairmined Ecological gold, which has been mined and processed without mercury or cyanide and conforms to the Fairmined standard developed by the Alliance for Responsible Mining. Consulting jewelry historians curate the brand’s ­designs, which vary widely in style and defy easy characterization, except to say they have strong links to historical jewels—from archival earring designs by the likes of Art Smith and Man Ray to a pendant based on an ancient Egyptian jewel. With the recent arrival of pieces at more accessible ­prices— such as stacking rings that retail for less than $1,000— Donofrio is angling to make Futura and its mercury-free message accessible to a younger generation of consumers who are the most plugged-in and vocal demographic of all. “I want them to know there’s an option for clean gold they never knew before,” he says.

(From l.) Amulet necklace with Odyssey pendant from ancient Egypt, Love locket from 18th-century France, and Ibis pendant from ancient Peru in 18k Fairmined Ecological gold, $27,500; Man Ray Lampshade earrings in 18k Fairmined Ecological gold, $5,700; Futura Jewelry; hello@ futurajewelry.com; futurajewelry.com


Centurion Scottsdale Salon F 104 Luxury and JCK Show Las Vegas Salon Lux 313

2 WEST 46 STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10036 | (800) 223-6639 | da@dagoldproducts.com | www.dagoldproducts.com


136 (From l.) Allium Octad 1 ct. ring with recycled diamond or ethically sourced Canadian or Australian diamond in 100% recycled metal or Fairmined gold, starting at $11,000; Eaves Cluster ring with oval-cut white sapphire, pear-cut pink morganite, round-cut champagne diamond, and princess-cut smoky quartz in 100% recycled metal or Fairmined gold, starting at $1,520; Prim Cluster ring with trillion-cut white sapphire, Argyle champagne diamond, and recycled princess-cut tourmaline in 100% recycled metal or Fairmined gold, starting at $1,520; Bario Neal; 215-648-6570; bario-neal.com

Futura’s latest project, a just-opened gold processing plant that will increase its capacity over several years, is significantly adding to the availability of mercury-free gold, which is now in short supply. “Five years from now, this will be the industry standard,” Donofrio says. “The consumer wants it.” Donofrio may be onto something. Just look to the response Net-a-Porter’s Net Sustain project has received. The platform highlights brands sold by the online retailer that meet its criteria for sustainability. Since its introduction in June 2019, the brand offering has increased by more than 500%, and the retailer plans to expand it each season.

THE ARTIST’S WAY In 2017, Denver-based designer Mariele Ivy, founder of Young in the Mountains, switched to working exclusively with stones originating from the United States for the lapidary work that ­appears liberally in her collection. Her decision was spurred by ethical concerns surrounding some of the materials she once used. Knowing that her j­ewelry was often chosen by couples as a meaningful symbol of their love, Ivy wanted to ensure the materials she used did not harm people or planet on their journey to market. “I couldn’t be distracted by the beauty when what I was making represented love,” Ivy says. “There couldn’t be a dark side to the materials.” She is equally protective of the jewelers who work for her. “We sometimes have clients that have strange expectations of perfection. I’m the first person to tell them

to go elsewhere because we’re not robots. Some people want machine perfection, and I won’t force real artists into that.” Ivy’s approach reflects her conviction that “being an artist is about how you show up, not just in what you’re producing.”

TRANSPARENCY YOU CAN SEE With the 2008 debut of their jewelry brand Bario Neal, which specializes in commitment jewelry, Anna Bario and Page Neal were at the forefront of the industry’s sustainability movement. “We started with the desire to combine environmentalism with creative pursuits,” Bario explains. Early on, the pair realized the effort would require “a lot of research, and [so we] started working with some nonprofits to learn about ­extractives,” she says. As a result, Bario Neal is extremely well-versed in the ­origins of its materials, including gems that are ­traceable from mine to market as well as reclaimed and Fairmined gold. In 2019, the company created its first-ever ­sustainability report. (The second report is forthcoming.) The 49-page document details every element of Bario Neal’s operations— from the steps used to evaluate suppliers to the origins of its diamonds (77% are reclaimed) to the code of conduct for vendors. Being open to questions about the process is the brand’s modus operandi. “We don’t want to burden clients with the knowledge we have,” Bario says. “On our site, it’s a chooseyour-own-adventure story. You don’t have to be bombarded, but the deeper you want to dive, we lay it all out there.”



T H E J C K S H OW MARKS ITS PEARL ANNIVERSARY T H I S J U N E AT T H E VENETIAN EXPO. C E L E B R AT E W I T H U S ! by Melissa Rose Bernardo and Victoria Gomelsky

(Clockwise from l.) Xpandable cocktail ring in 18k white gold with 4.08 cts. t.w. octagonal-cut Zambian emeralds and 0.62 ct. t.w. round diamonds,

$59,450, Picchiotti; Premiere Danse bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 2.22 cts. t.w. diamonds, $12,180, Laura Gallon; The Blaine platinum and 18k

Honey Gold earrings with 8.9 cts. t.w. radiant-cut Sunny Yellow Diamonds and 3.18 cts. t.w. marquise-shape Vanilla Diamonds, $84,400, Le Vian

Couture; sterling silver and gemstone initial necklaces on 18-inch chains (stone composition varies with each letter), $200 each, Phillip Gavriel


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(L.–r.) Anastasia ring with 3.6 ct. radiant-cut center moissanite, 1.1 cts. t.w. marquise-cut moissanites, and 0.25 ct. t.w. round diamonds in 14k rose gold, $2,400, Anye Designs; Fringe necklace with 9.23 cts. t.w. green tourmaline and 0.2 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $6,595, Lauren K; citrine, coral, and cognac diamond earrings in 18k yellow gold, price on request, Evanueva

1.

A bit of trivia: The first JCK show wasn’t even called JCK; it was Jewelry ’92. More than 6,000 buyers attended the fair at the Sands Expo and Convention Center. For comparison: The 2019 fair hosted 13,803.

2.

The show floor opens every day, Wednesday, June 8–Monday, June 13, at 9:30 a.m., and closes daily at 6 p.m.—except on the final day, Monday, when it closes at 4 p.m.

3.

The second-floor Design Collective should be your first stop if you’re looking for truly unique pieces. Mokume gane wedding bands and Damascus steel combs? Chris

HE 2022 EDITION marks JCK’s 30th-­ anniversary show, ­offering an opportunity to celebrate the jewelry industry that has united at JCK Las Vegas for three decades to innovate, debut trends, and discover products. To salute its 30th year, we rounded up 30 things to know about the show. Has it really been 30 years? JCK, you don’t look a day over 29. Here’s to the next 30!

Ploof has you covered. Sexy mixed metal jewels with spikes, snakes, and skulls galore? Alp Sagnak is your guy.

4.

JCK might not open until Friday, June 10, but JCK Talks—sponsored by GIA—kicks off Thursday, June 9, with a day of panels in the Level 1 ballrooms.

5.

The JCK Talks fun continues June 10–12 on the Showcase Stage, starting at 11 a.m., covering topics in six tracks: market and consumer trends, responsibility, sales, style and design trends, marketing, and relevance. Each day features a session from each track.

6.

In 2018, JCK gave lab-grown diamonds their own ­pavilion; not surprisingly, the section has gotten bigger every year. You’ll find a ­plethora of loose stones from ­exhibitors including GoGreen, plus finished jewelry from brands such as Fenix Diamonds and Smiling Rocks.

7.

Want a closer look at the Jewelers’ Choice Award winners on pages 146–159? Pop by the second-floor JCA Lounge to see the pieces in person.

8.

Plumb Club has exhibited at JCK Las Vegas since 1994. On Saturday, June 11, drop by its pavilion from 5:30 to 7 p.m. to toast the show’s

30th birthday. After all, no celebration is complete without Champagne and light entertainment (and cocktails, wine, cheese, and cake!).

9.

Speaking of celebration: Showgoers will enjoy daily moments of appreciation with treats on the show floor each day. Any chance of bringing back 2019’s DIY doughnut bar?

10.

Tucked behind the Currents neighborhood, at the back of the main aisle of Level 2, you’ll find the brand-new Innovation Hub, a one-stop shop where showgoers can find inventive solutions to their most pressing business challenges.


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with an evening cocktail fete followed by Hamilton–Remix, starring Miguel Cervantes (Broadway’s resident A. Ham) and more Hamilton cast members and alums. Don’t throw away your shot!

Need some motivation for your morning workout? Make it a Jewelers for Children fundraiser. Run, walk, or even do yoga at The Venetian Thursday, June 9, at JFC’s annual Rings of Strength. ( jewelersforchildren.org)

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Saturday night is going to be packed! The Indian Diamond & Colorstone Association is bringing back its gala to The Venetian’s Murano Ballroom. Among the honorees: the fifth-generation family-run Ben Bridge Jeweler, which has been named the group’s Retailer of the Year. (idcany.org)

Dust off your high heels and tuxedos. Diamonds Do Good returns with its evening soirée in the Palazzo Ballroom Thursday night, when it will recognize the five ­recipients of the inaugural 2022 Sustainable Development Goal Awards. (diamondsdogood.com)

14.

Anyone who attended JCK Las Vegas during the 2010s remembers the raucous “JCK Rocks the Beach” concerts at Mandalay Bay by A-listers such as Bruno Mars and Maroon 5. Now, “JCK Rocks” returns to The Venetian, Saturday, June 11,

(Clockwise from top l.) High-polished sterling silver heart necklace with CZ, $140, 14k rose, white, and yellow gold Omega

necklaces with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,690 each, Royal Chain; Sari bracelet in 14k rose gold and diamond, $2,350,

EF Collection; bracelets in 18k gold with 7.5 cts. t.w. rose-cut and full-cut diamonds, $15,995 each, Nigaam;

Bubbly collection earrings with white diamonds and green tourmaline drops in white gold, price on request, Palmiero

17.

Also on Sunday: JFC’s Facets of Hope in the Palazzo Ballroom, honoring Richline Group’s Dave Meleski and Rogers Enterprises’ Craig Stern. But the real draw is the heartrending stories about JFC’s great work. (Bring tissues.)

HAMILTON MARQUEE: BRUCE GLIKAS

At 8 a.m. Sunday, June 12, in the Palazzo Ballroom, the ­always-anticipated Rapaport Breakfast is sure to draw a crowd eager to hear industry sage Martin Rapaport expound on everything from inflation to sanctions on Russian diamonds.

The Plumb Club is hosting invited guests at the Katy Perry Play concert Friday, June 10. Now, who in PC wants to take some JCK editors along? (Only kidding!)



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18.

It wouldn’t be Vegas without the Le Vian Red Carpet Revue—featuring a 2023 trend forecast and fashion show—now in its 23rd edition. In 2021, Le Vian focused on heartshape designs, colorful stones such as rainbow sapphires, and stacking styles. Alas, we’ll have to wait until Sunday to see what Le Vian is loving this year.

Trade Association and the International Colored Gemstone Association, it’s on Level 2, next to Plumb Club and behind Luxury. Whether you’re looking for bread-and-butter goods (blue sapphires, anyone?) or esoteric gems (like the single-source stone grandidierite), think of Gems as a distilled-to-its-essence version of Tucson without the saguaros.

19.

21.

Overseas flights are still a ­major pain, so thank goodness so many international exhibitors come to Vegas. Travel to Hong Kong, Spain, and Germany all in the same day; they each have their own neighborhoods. Then jet over to the first-floor Passport pavilion, where you’ll find companies from countries as far afield as Thailand (your go-to for spectacular silver) and Turkey (high-karat gold specialists).

20.

From apatite to zircon, virtually all the world’s gem varieties will be on display in the expanded Gems neighborhood, which opens Thursday, June 9, one day before the rest of the JCK show. With exhibitors from the American Gem

Looking to add some affordable giftables to your stock? The Shoppe by JCK is an all-new pavilion, on the second floor, for gifts and accessories including leather goods, eyewear, handbags, stationery, skin care/beauty products, and home decor.

22. (Clockwise from top) Xpandable ring in 18k white and yellow gold with diamonds and turquoise ceramic, $41,075, Picchiotti; Joyce earrings with rubies,

Sleeping Beauty turquoise, freshwater pearls, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $4,350, Lauren K; ring with diamonds and tanzanite in 18k white gold, $13,000,

Bapalal Keshavlal; 14k white gold necklace with white fancy-shape diamonds, $6,030, Just Jules; ring with yellow sapphire, pink sapphires,

peridot, amethysts, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold, $12,500, Sofragem; 14k yellow gold and gemstone inlay necklace, $950, Royal Chain

Don’t forget to pick up a JCK Show Daily! On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, JCK publishes an on-site edition containing live-from-the-floor reporting, event schedules, and show maps.

23.

Have you downloaded the JCK app? Visit the App Store or Google Play. Trust us: It’s the best way to navigate the show floor.


September 18-19, 2022 SAN DIEGO CONVENTION CENTER

JIS DELIVERY – SAN DIEGO IS BACK FOR 2022! Mark your calendar for a trade-only jewelry event designed specifically for retailers located in the Western USA who are looking to conveniently buy merchandise right on the show floor for instant resale.

|

SA N DIEGO, C A

Restock inventory immediately before holiday season Cash-and-carry or write orders for later shipment Extensive range of suppliers of finished jewelry and services Beautiful, easy-to-access and affordable location

PRE- REGIS TER TODAY AT J ISSHOW.COM

#JISSHOW


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Luxury returns to its home on Level 2 in the same format buyers have come to expect: a main show floor plus ballrooms, with Luxury lunch served across those spaces. Open by invitation only Wednesday and Thursday, the show opens to all JCK show attendees June 10–13.

When you need a moment to relax or socialize (or simply rest your tired dogs), look for a lounge—the Jewelers’ Choice Awards Lounge, and Design Collective and Gems lounges— on Level 2. And enjoy complimentary afternoon snack and cocktail service in the revamped Luxury Lounge.

Missed VicenzaOro in March? Non c’è problema! Nestled next to Plumb Club on the second floor is Bella Italia, where you’ll find more 18k gold than you could imagine and brands such as Palmiero and Picchiotti.

If you haven’t signed up for JCK Pro—a members-only pass to market insights, expert content, and connection opportunities—be sure to add JCK Pro to your cart when you register for JCK 2022, or subscribe at jckonline.com/pro with code “SHOWPRO22.” You’ll receive a discounted rate that gets you on-site Pro perks including access to an exclusive lounge and a dedicated registration line (skip the crowds on opening day!).

Essentials & Tech isn’t all 3D printers and CAD software: You can find super-accessible tools such as Picup Media’s GemLoupe, a $169 smartphone clip-on lens to take your jewelry pics up a few notches. (Excuse us while we order one…)

As of press time, masks are recommended, but not required, for JCK show participants. Watch lasvegas.jckonline.com for ­updates to the latest CDC guidelines.

(Clockwise from top l.) Ginkgo collection necklace with white diamonds, oval emerald, and enamel in white gold, price on request, Palmiero;

Ange necklace in 18k yellow gold with 1.87 cts. t.w. diamonds and mother-of-pearl, $6,050, Laura Gallon; Velaa Royale pendant in 18k White Ice Gold with 0.7 ct.

diamond, price on request, Annamaria Cammilli; 18k white gold earrings with 3 mm–3.5 mm freshwater pearls and diamonds, $1,900 (sold as pair), Yoko

London; earrings with 43.17 cts. t.w. sapphires and 3.39 cts. t.w. diamonds in titanium, price on request, Giovanni Ferraris Gioielli

30.

A JCK Keynote will take place on Friday morning. Among the previous keynote speakers: swimsuit model–turned–jewelry designer Kathy Ireland and Botswana President Mokgweetsi Masisi.



jewelers’ choice awards

the winners 2022

T H E PA P E R - C L I P C H A I N C O N T I N U E S TO D O M I N AT E N E C K S , W R I S T S , A N D D I S P L AY C A S E S A RO U N D T H E W O R L D — TA K I N G T H E 2 0 2 2 J C A G R A N D - P R I Z E T I T L E . PRESENTING ALL THE TOP VOTE- GETTERS, PLUS THE WINNERS OF T H E E D I T O R S ’ C H O I C E AWA R D S — C H O S E N B Y J C K S T A F F E R S — A N D I N F L U E N C E R S ’ C H O I C E AWA R D S , C H O S E N B Y H A N N A H B E C K E R , S E V E R I N E F E R R A R I , B E N J A M I N G . G U T T E R Y, D A N I E L L E M I E L E , E R I C A S I LV E R G L I D E , A N D B E C K Y S T O N E .


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Jewelers’ Choice Awards

GRAND PRIZE

4

BEST BRACELET

$2,500 & UNDER

Classic round diamond solitaire with baguette diamond shank and chevron-shape hidden pavé halo; $2,499 (without center stone); fanajewelry.com

1

$2,500 & UNDER

Influencers’ Choice

Paper Hearts paper-clip chain bracelet with diamond-encrusted heart carabiner twist clasp; $990; shycreation.com

WINNER

5

$2,501–$10,000

Wild Heart by Noam Carver interlocking 14k yellow gold engagement ring and wedding band with round diamonds and milgrain details; $3,800 (without center stone); noamcarver.com

BEST BRIDAL 6

OVER $10,000 Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

2

OVER $2,500

Leaf cuff in 22k gold with brilliant-cut diamonds; $58,000; susangordon.com

Kate diamond ring with 6 ct. oval center stone on round diamond eternity shank; $300,000; anyedesigns.com

Gadot 4-row bridge cuff bracelet in 14k yellow gold with 1.62 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds; $7,020; shycreation.com

3

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

7

Engagement ring with 11.05 ct. antique cushion-cut diamond and micropavé accents; $454,000; marisaperry.com


BEST EARRING

148

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

10

9

$5,001–$10,000

OVER $10,000

14k yellow gold earrings with 0.58 ct. t.w. diamonds, 3.6 cts. t.w. aquamarines, and 1 ct. t.w. citrine; $5,250; alameahawaii.com

Earrings with 18.31 cts. t.w. Australian black opals, 4.14 cts. t.w. mint garnets, and 0.88 ct. t.w. brilliant-cut diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $22,695; parlegems.com

11

8

One-of-a-kind earrings with 7.88 cts. t.w. Ceylon blue sapphires, 12.94 cts. t.w. cushion-cut red spinel, 9.5 cts. t.w. pear-shape blue sapphires, and 6.38 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k black rhodium gold; $73,640; yaeldesigns.com

$5,000 & UNDER

Soleil starburst dangle earrings with diamonds in satin-finish 14k yellow gold; $2,600; shycreation.com Editors’ Choice

WINNER

BEST PRICE POINT 12

$500 & UNDER

Sterling silver and opal bangle; $325; alameahawaii.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

13

$501–$1,000

Swirl baguette and round diamond earrings in 14k yellow gold; $995; ashercollection.com

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

14

Diamond Double Butterfly studs in 14k yellow gold with sandblasted finish; $450; shycreation.com


Jewelers’ Choice Awards

BEST NECKLACE 15

$5,000 & UNDER

14k yellow gold larimar and diamond necklace; $3,250; alameahawaii.com

16

$5,001–$10,000 (TIE)

$5,001–$10,000 (TIE)

18

19

14k yellow gold chain necklace with oval diamond pavé white gold link stations; $5,645; gabrielny.com

Editors’ Choice

17

WINNER

OVER $10,000

One-of-a-kind necklace with 9.23 ct. pear-shape Paraiba tourmaline, 4.11 cts. t.w. marquise- and pear-shape diamonds, 0.26 ct. t.w. baguette diamonds, and 10.36 cts. t.w. round diamonds in 18k white gold; $459,384; yaeldesigns.com

Hand-fabricated 14k gold asymmetrical Seaside necklace with black opals and diamond halo; $6,900; justjules.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

18k yellow gold necklace with 3.38 ct. Australian opal, 1.28 ct. mint garnet, and 5.65 cts. t.w. round brilliant diamonds; $32,095; parlegems.com

149


150 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

BEST RING 20 21

$2,500 & UNDER

Diamond bridge ring with 1.03 cts. t.w. pavé-set diamonds; $2,400; shycreation.com

$2,501–$10,000

Opal Power ring with 2.7 ct. Australian opal and 0.7 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $7,895; parlegems.com

22 23

OVER $10,000

Natural pink and white diamond ring; $30,000; novel-collection.com

LaFlame one-of-a-kind platinum ring with 4.1 ct. fancy-cut pinkish-red spinel and baguette and round diamonds; $100,000; pomposjewelry.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

BEST STATEMENT PIECE

24

$10,000–$30,000

Grace & Lace peacock broochpendant with micro-set diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires in 14k white gold; $10,000; twinklesbysevandesigns.com

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

25

OVER $30,000

Eternity band with 20.14 cts. t.w. multicolored natural sapphires and 1.13 cts. t.w. diamonds in platinum and 18k gold; $40,000; ricardobasta.com



152 Jewelers’ Choice Awards

MEN’S

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

26

$2,500 & UNDER Muze collection Mystic Wolf ring in oxidized sterling silver with 14k gold and gemstone accents, plus interactive patented smartphonecompatible Momento NFC technology; $688; galateausa.com

28

Scarab Beetle brooch in 14k yellow gold with 5.4 ct. Egyptian turquoise and 0.63 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds; $6,795; parlegems.com

27

OVER $2,500

Heroic King ring in 14k yellow gold with forged carbon fiber and 1.53 cts. t.w. round and princesscut diamonds; $7,900; carlexcollection.com

COLORED STONES

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

29

33

$2,500 & UNDER

One-of-a-kind Waterdance cuff in sterling silver and 22k gold vermeil with aquamarine, chrome diopside, iolite, London blue topaz, lemon quartz, treated mystic fire quartz, orange carnelian, opal doublet, peridot, pink tourmaline, and sunstone; $2,395; michoujewelry.com

30

$2,501–$10,000

Ring with 6.53 ct. Australian opal, pear-shape mint garnets, and round brilliant diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $7,845; parlegems.com

31

Rainbow Arch earrings with multicolored tourmaline baguettes and diamonds in 18k gold; $3,500; tresorcollection.com

32

OVER $10,000

December’s Hue earrings with 3.92 cts. t.w. Sleeping Beauty turquoise, 2.42 cts. t.w. tanzanite, 4.01 cts. t.w. blue zircon, and 1.18 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $11,895; parlegems.com

Desire ring with tanzanite, kuka seeds, diamonds, and fancy colored diamonds in silver and gold; $14,000; celebornjewellery.com


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154

DIAMONDS 34

OVER $10,000

Bao brooch-pendant with 0.77 ct. t.w. amber, 0.31 ct. brown moonstone, 5.55 cts. t.w. cognac diamonds, 1.17 cts. t.w. labradorite, 3.98 cts. t.w. black diamonds, and 2.16 cts. t.w. white sapphires in 18k yellow gold; $77,000; crevoshay.com

37

COLORED DIAMONDS

$2,500 & UNDER

Lusso diamond chevron ring in 14k white gold; $1,730; gabrielny.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

35

38

$2,501–$10,000

Expandable ring with 0.574 ct. t.w. diamonds and multicolored ceramic inlay in 18k rose gold; $5,950; tariqriaz.com

Ring with natural pink pear-shape diamond and colorless rose-cut diamonds; $60,000; novel-collection.com

Editors’ Choice

WINNER Editors’ Choice

WINNER

36

Solaris ring with 8.02 ct. cushion-cut fancy yellow diamond and 2.15 cts. t.w. ideal-cut round diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow gold; $240,000; pomposjewelry.com

39

OVER $10,000

Lusso graduating oval link diamond necklace in 18k white gold; $15,305; gabrielny.com


Jewelry & Gemstones

In cooperation with

Colorado Convention Center Downtown Denver

Interested in Exhibiting?

www.hardrocksummit.com


156

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

40 FASHION/ 41

$500 & UNDER

Ania Haie 14k yellow gold earrings with cabochon turquoise and faceted white sapphires; $259; chicpistachio.com

BRIDGE

OVER $500

Venias collier with kyanite and sapphires; $599; berndwolf.com

GOLD

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

42

$2,500 & UNDER

14k yellow gold Compass earrings with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds and 0.16 ct. t.w. sapphires; $2,350; alameahawaii.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

43

OVER $2,500

Dancing Waves cuff in 14k yellow gold with diamonds; $10,000; shula-ny.com

44

Demure tilted bar cuff bracelet in 14k yellow gold; $3,025; gabrielny.com


Jewelers’ Choice Awards

LAB-GROWN

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

157

47

18k white gold Glacé necklace with 77 cts. t.w. round, marquise, oval, and pear lab-created diamonds; $100,000; brilliantearth.com

46

Front-back earrings with 0.875 ct. t.w. lab-grown diamonds in 14k yellow gold; $1,195; stuller.com

45

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

ALL PRICE POINTS

Haute Couture Floral earrings with 14.81 cts. t.w. lab-grown pear, marquise, and round diamonds in 14k white gold; $22,999; smilingrocks.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

MIXED METAL

48 49

$1,000 & UNDER

Floating Charms Swallow necklace in 24k gold and oxidized sterling silver with round white diamond eyes on 18-inch oxidized sterling silver chain; $660; likabehar.com

OVER $1,000

Curbside Fusion cuff in 24k gold and oxidized sterling silver with diamonds; $3,240; likabehar.com

Editors’ Choice

WINNER


158

Editors’ & Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

50

Magic Mushroom pendant with blue mabe pearl top, white motherof-pearl stem, abalone underside, and inlaid diamond in 14k gold; $595; mauragreenjewelry.com

52

OVER $2,500 (TIE)

Signature collection Eclisse cocktail ring with 12 mm–12.5 mm black Tahitian pearl in 18k rose gold fan with 0.5 ct. t.w. brilliant white diamonds; $6,050; mastoloni.com

PEARL

51

$2,500 & UNDER

Jumbo Pearl paper-clip necklace with 0.17 ct. t.w. bezel-set diamonds in 14k gold; $1,990; shycreation.com

53

OVER $2,500 (TIE)

Treasure of the Sea bracelet with 2.95 cts. t.w. 11 mm pearls, 8.92 cts. t.w. moonstones, 8.07 cts. t.w. tsavorite, 6.09 cts. t.w. diamonds, and 9.88 cts. t.w. sapphires in 18k gold; $181,900; crevoshay.com


Jewelers’ Choice Awards

159

Editors’ Choice

WINNER

55

54

Hampton 14k yellow gold rectangular ID pendant necklace with twisted rope frame; $400; gabrielny.com

ALL PRICE POINTS

Bujukan 18-inch 14k yellow gold fashion necklace; $925; gabrielny.com

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

PERSONALIZED Editors’ Choice

WINNER

56

$500 & UNDER

Influencers’ Choice

WINNER

Bujukan sterling silver and white sapphire wide statement ring; $325; gabrielny.com

SILVER

57

Marapi sterling silver multi-stone bangle; $469; samuelb.com

58

$501–$1,000

Serendipity sterling silver and blue multi-stone bangle; $799; samuelb.com

59

OVER $1,000

Keliki pebble design bangle in sterling silver and 18k gold; $1,149; samuelb.com


Curated Gemstones & Fine Jewelry

AGTA GemFair Las Vegas at the JCK Show | Booth: AGTA 28075 KimberlyCollinsGems.com | 7 7 5 . 6 2 2 . 0 6 0 0 | IG: @kimberlycollinsgems


THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SUMMER 2022

TRENDS FROM TUCSON, 2022’S HOTTEST GEMS & MORE


COLORED STONES 162

PICKS N S T SO E and

WE’VE GOT A GEM FOR YOU, NO MATTER YOUR TASTE OR BUDGET ($250? NO PROBLEM!) by Melissa Rose Bernardo

2

3

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MIXED TOURMALINE 1. 20k rose gold solitaire ring with Mozambique tourmaline and blue and green tourmaline; $10,700; Nak Armstrong; sales@nak armstrong.com; nakarmstrong.com 2. The Stack necklace with 4.5 cts. t.w. tourmaline in 18k yellow gold; $3,000; Akaila Reid; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; akailareid.com 3. One-of-a-kind Gemmy Gem bezel cuff in 18k rose gold with pink tourmaline; $32,480; Irene Neuwirth; sales@ireneneuwirth.com; ireneneuwirth.com

6

5

4. Bicolor tourmaline and diamond bracelet in 18k yellow gold; $26,000; Trésor Collection; 305-375-0935; tresorcollection.com 5. One-of-a-kind Triple Joyce earrings with 7.88 cts. t.w. oval green tourmaline and 0.07 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $4,950; Lauren K; info@laurenk.com; laurenk.com 6. Ring with 10.5 cts. t.w. tourmaline in 18k gold; €5,120 ($5,587); Margoni; info@margoni.gr; margoni.gr 4


COLORED STONES 164

OMBRÉ BEADS 1. Mixed green bead Foundation necklace with green turquoise, malachite, and jade in 18k yellow gold; $1,950; Harwell Godfrey; meaghan@forfuturereference.com; harwellgodfrey.com 2. Turquoise wrap bracelet-necklace in 18k yellow gold; $545; Anne Sportun; 844-363-4114; annesportun.com 3. Bangalore earring with agate, aventurine, and quartz; $150 (sold as single); SVNR; kim@ madcolor.nyc; svnrshop.com

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4. Mobile earrings in amazonite, aventurine, and jade; $360; Jessica Winzelberg; info@jessicawinzelberg.com; jessicawinzelberg.com 5. Gold and diamond enamel celestial medallion on shade apatite beaded bracelet; $1,025; Sydney Evan; 213-236-4444; sydneyevan.com

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3 4

5


Gemstones from all across the world S.P.B CREATIONS / S.P.B. GEMS

Please visit us at JCK Las Vegas June 9th-June 13th, 2022 Fine Gems Pavilion

BGK Graphics

Booth #34058

212-719-5170 • 888-SPB-GEMS • email:info@spbgems.com • www.spbgems.com


HEART SHAPES

COLORED STONES 166

1. Lollipop Heart necklace with pink tourmaline heart in spotted green jasper; $5,900; Retrouvaí; meaghan@forfuturereference.com; retrouvai.com 2. 14k yellow gold and gray moonstone Anna heart charm; $1,850; Storrow Fine Jewelry; info@storrow jewelry.com; storrowjewelry.com

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3

2

3. 14k rose gold mother-of-pearl heart earrings with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds; $837; Effy; 877-275-3339; effyjewelry.com 4. 18k yellow gold pink sapphire Honey heart gypsy ring; $4,200; Deborah Pagani; info@deborahpagani.com; deborahpagani.com

4

5

5. 18k yellow gold I Heart Rainbows necklace with rainbow sapphires; $38,000; Emily P. Wheeler; info@emilypwheeler.com; emilypwheeler.com


EXPECT THE EXCEPTIONAL. EXPLORE THE PHENOMENAL. LUXURY by JCK Salon 702 | Las Vegas, NV | June 8-13, 2022 AGTA GemFair HardRock Summit | Denver, CO | September 8-11, 2022

626.331.4533 | omiprive.com | jewelry@omiprive.com


CARVED GEMS

COLORED STONES 168

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1. Medium Marianne necklace with lapis, pink opal, coral, and diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $9,600; Brent Neale; meaghan@ forfuturereference.com; brentneale.com 2. One-of-a-kind carved tanzanite leaf in 18k gold with braided detail; $1,595; Amáli Jewelry; info@ amalijewelry.com; amalijewelry.com 3. 18k gold earrings with gray agate cameo, coral, and mother-of-pearl disc; CHF 1,950 ($2,121); Bahina; bahina.com 4. Earrings in 18k gold with diamonds and turquoise; $19,700; Silvia Furmanovich; 866-301-MUSE; silviafurmanovich.com

3

4

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5. 18k black rhodium gold bangle with two jade lions, tourmaline, moonstones, tsavorite, sapphires, rubies, and diamonds; price on request; Lydia Courteille; lauren@megamegaprojects.com; lydiacourteille.com



EVERYDAY TURQUOISE

COLORED STONES 170

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1. Demi Draper turquoise and red tourmaline earrings; $2,700; Rush Jewelry Design; lauren@ megamegaprojects.com; rushjewelrydesign.com

4. Three Turquoise Ball Drop earrings with emeralds; $2,950; Mateo New York; meaghan@forfuturereference.com; mateonewyork.com

2. Turquoise and baroque pearl necklace in 14k gold–plated brass; $228; Bounkit; 212-244-1877; bounkit.com

5. Turquoise cabochon with side diamond channel ring; $3,800; Ali Grace Jewelry; info@aligracejewelry.com; aligracejewelry.com

3. Natural leather cuff with 28 ct. Kingman turquoise in 14k gold and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamond-set prongs; $3,750; Just Jules; 480-860-6211; justjules.com



Y EV R

G HN

E T I is FINE I

TOP-QUALITY GOODS, BLUE-GREEN STONES, AND RARE FINDS ARE DRIVING DEMAND IN THE RED -HOT COLORED STONE MARKET by Victoria Gomelsky

F YOU HAPPENED to attend this year’s gem shows in Tucson, the buoyant mood may have caught you off guard. Despite the omicron surge, despite the noticeable absence of Asian exhibitors and buyers, despite the fluid and ever-rising state of prices, business was absolutely booming. “After successive strong holiday seasons, retailers n ­ eeded stock,” Stuart Robertson, vice president of research at Gemworld International in Glenview, Ill., said on a ­webinar in late February devoted to “Colored Gemstone Market Trends in Uncertain Times.” “There was no single hot gem this year,” he added. “We saw a wide range of things selling, from pastels to bold colors. Basically, anything that was better quality sold well.”

BEST SELLERS And by better, Robertson really meant best. Take, for instance, the 80.26 ct. royal blue Burma sapphire that Ijadi Gem displayed at the American Gem Trade Association GemFair. “We’ve been hiding it in the safe,” said president and owner Sam Ijadi. “It’s the first time we’re exposing it.” The stone carried a conservative estimate of $10 million at retail. The fact that Ijadi chose this year’s Tucson gathering for the gem’s public debut pointed to another truism: “It is a


COLORED STONES 173

“In mining, stones remain in the ground—you still have access to them. But that’s not what we saw in the cultured pearl trade.” —STUART ROBERTSON

seller’s market,” Robertson said. He added a caveat: “On-hand stock is key. Prospective buyers are not waiting. They move on to the next supplier if they can’t find what they’re looking for.” Dave Bindra, vice president of B&B Fine Gems in Los Angeles, also an AGTA exhibitor, confirmed the “sense of urgency” that seemed to characterize most transactions. “In the past, it would take three or four days for buyers to make a decision,” he said. “Now they make it on the spot.” “Rare and unusual items”—including Mahenge spinels from Tanzania and unheated sapphires, such as an 11.09 ct. Sri Lankan padparadscha that Bindra described as “perfect”— seemed to draw the most interest, he said.

(Opposite page) Montana sapphires from Columbia Gem House: “These were very popular across the board. All shapes, sizes, and colors,“ said the brand. (Above) 8.5 mm–10 mm South Sea pearl necklace in 18k yellow gold; $6,050; Mastoloni; sales@ mastoloni.com; mastoloni.com

(OPPOSITE PAGE) DILLON SPRAGUE/COLUMBIA GEM HOUSE; (THIS PAGE) PADPARADSCHA: COURTESY OF DAVE BINDRA

PEARL SHORTAGES Price volatility is one reason buyers felt compelled to move quickly. Tucson sellers seemed uncertain about how to price goods, some of which came from old stock and would not easily be replaced, due to the pandemic-induced mining slowdown. “Prices are fluid and trending higher,” Robertson said. “Once lower-priced goods are gone, the higher price takes hold. The best time to buy is when goods are available.” That advice was—and remains—extra pertinent to anyone shopping for cultured pearls. Production at pearl farms around the world—in Japan, China, Australia, Tahiti, and elsewhere— was severely curtailed by the pandemic, because many farmers were unable to nucleate their oysters during quarantines. “In mining, stones remain in the ground—you still have access to them, but that’s not what we saw in the cultured pearl trade,” Robertson said. “Supply chain disruptions ­related to COVID-19 involved the inability to get product into the water to get nucleated. That process did not take place at a large number of farms for more than a season. This will throw off production for a few seasons.” As a result, buyers should expect to find price increases and shortages in certain key categories, especially Tahitian and South Sea pearls, Robertson said.

The suggested retail price for B&B Fine Gems’ 11.09 ct. padparadscha: $1.4 million

POPULARITY CONTEST Based on market trends in Tucson, a few gems appear to be riding a wave of popularity—chiefly fancy colored Montana sapphires, which appeal to buyers for their easily traceable provenance. During the Gemworld webinar, president Richard Drucker noted that while goods from Yogo Gulch, Mont., are rare and priced per stone, Potentate Mining is producing “beautiful fancy colors” at the state’s Rock Creek deposit. Drucker also pointed to the evergreen popularity of rainbow moonstone and rising interest in demantoid garnet. He cited Prosperity Earth, a vertical mining and cutting operation in Madagascar that specializes in demantoid, and said the amount of material flowing from the deposit is helping to raise the profile of the once-esoteric green gem. Of all the stones that struck a chord with buyers, however, those that had been ethically sourced—with proven ­provenance—were the real stars of Tucson. On an Instagram Live session in mid-February (a replacement for a presentation scheduled at AGTA before the show canceled all educational events), Eric Braunwart, founder of Columbia Gem House in Vancouver, Wash., a leader in ­responsible sourcing, said interest in sustainability has spiked in recent years. “We started doing this work 20 years ago and really where we saw the change happen was the last few years,” he said. “The #MeToo movement, Black Lives Matter—they woke people up to think about how their work impacted others.” Emily Phillippy, owner of Emily Chelsea Jewelry in Philadelphia, a Columbia Gem House customer who ­appeared on the Instagram Live with Braunwart, acknowledged that many of the buzzwords the industry uses to discuss responsible sourcing are a trend, but the meaning behind them is anything but. “As soon as Gen Z has more buying power, especially this pandemic generation,” Phillippy said, “there’s no way this is going away.”


COLORED STONES 174

WHAT S

E E ? R S R T AU your

JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky snapped up this David Freeland Jr. inlay pendant

WHAT SHOULD YOU BE HUNTING FOR IN LAS VEGAS? GET INSPIRED BY WHAT TOP INDUSTRY PROS SPOTTED, LOVED, AND PICKED UP EARLIER THIS YEAR AT THE TUCSON GEM SHOWS. by Amy Elliott

T

HE TUCSON GEM shows were a tonic for those who have been starved for the kind of epic gem shopping experience we’ve come to expect from this annual event. After so many months of ­communicating with gem dealers via text, Zoom, and Instagram, many in the industry were all but ecstatic to touch and feel stones and mineral specimens, and see friends and ­colleagues IRL. Trendspotting and reconnecting with favorite vendors were also high on the agenda. JCK ’s own editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky describes the shows as “nothing short of cathartic.” Like many attendees, she considered her visit to the Alfie Norville Gem & Mineral Museum, which just opened in downtown Tucson, the highlight of her trip. “No gem lover can afford to miss this place!” she says. And no gem hunter should tackle the JCK Las Vegas show without first reading the Tucson feedback we ­gathered from top stone dealers, retailers, influencers, and designers.

Danielle Miele

Victoria Gomelsky

I was excited to buy pieces to resell to my followers, and this trip left me with empty pockets and a full suitcase. I purchased some inlaid ammonites, carved amethyst skulls, lots of opals (both rough and ­finished jewelry), some Verde Valley agates, Mexican cantera opals—I buy one for my personal collection every year—danburite, Herkimer ­diamonds, and some Yogo Montana sapphires. I also bought a few antique and vintage pieces from the few ­dealers that were there.

I cruised the three main shows—the AGTA GemFair, GJX, and Pueblo—in search of standout specimens and discovered an 80 carat Burma royal blue sapphire at the Ijadi Gem booth easily worth more than $10 million at retail. Wowza! I was also thrilled to finally see, and buy, the work of David Freeland Jr., a Tucson-based inlay artist who showed at both the Pueblo and 22nd Street shows. I only found time to drop by his booth at Pueblo at the 11th hour—he was literally my last stop before we drove back to Los Angeles. My sister sat curbside in our idling car as my friend Mark and I agonized over which of Freeland’s many beguiling jewels I would choose. I ended up with a small cosmic-themed pendant depicting the earth, Saturn, and the stars in crescent-shaped shards of opal and turquoise. It’s out of this world!

Founder of @GemGossip and @shopgemgossip, Nashville

Editor-in-chief, JCK and JCKonline.com, Los Angeles


WWW.ARESANEWYORK.COM


COLORED STONES 176

(Below) Opal paintings from Angie Crabtree; (r.) Featherstone’s Hermitage earrings with opal, diamonds, and carved coral

Jennifer Gandia Co-owner, Greenwich St. Jewelers, New York City

We went looking for specific stones, but also allowed ourselves time to see what was out there—we know our clients well enough to have a good sense of what is going to ­resonate with them when we see it. Some of the things at the top of the list were emeralds and Montana sapphires—what we sell best is the teal green-blue hue range. And there’s always something that you haven’t seen before: One of these things was a tourmaline that we found from Agere Treasures at the Ethical Gem Fair. It just looked to me like a black tourmaline—I happen to wear a lot of black, I like a lot of black—but in the light, you could see that it had this really beautiful dark purple color. We bought them and decided that they should be called aubergine tourmalines.

Jennifer Gandia and her sister and co-owner, Christina Gandia Gambale, getting intimate with some gemstones

Deirdre Featherstone

Laura Kitsos

We start with a list—both projects and favorite restaurants—and attended a bunch of shows this year: AGTA, GJX, JOGS, Pueblo, and the Holidome. My list this year was focused on stones in specific colors that I love choosing with my own eyes. We purchased mainly calibrated stones and made notes of what I hope to work with next. I do love to treasure hunt for perfect pairs of stones for earrings. I like to think that I can stay focused on my overall design plans—unless there is a pair of opals, then it all goes out the window! I very much enjoyed looking at Angie Crabtree’s paintings of gemstones up close and personal. She was exhibiting at AGTA, and it was the first time I have seen her portraits of opals. I might need a portrait of a heart-shaped opal. Just sayin’.

I purchased some Brazilian quartz and agate shaped into mushrooms, some rose chrysocolla hearts, and other shapes. I also purchased some matte gemstone beads—rubies, emeralds, and more. I plan to hand-knot them onto contrasting silk cord and use 18k gold findings—I’m excited to start laying them out! I also purchased some beautiful, tumbled-looking multicolored sapphires cut into a barrel shape. And hearts were literally everywhere this year—turquoise hearts for pendants, heart-cut watermelon tourmalines, and gold heart charms in many styles, including pavé and padlock.

Owner/designer, Featherstone Design, New York City

Owner, Gem Jewelry Boutique, Oak Park, Ill.


Designed and handcrafted in New York

vahanjewelry.com | sales@vahanjewelry.com | 914.937.1800 Vahan ®, Alwand Vahan ®, Moiré Pattern ® are Regd. Trademarks. Designs © Alwand Vahan Jewelry Ltd. Made in the USA with ethically sourced materials from around the world.


COLORED STONES 178

(Below) Gustav Caesar Paul-Otto’s gemstone produce; (l.) Todd Wacks’ color-change garnet in daylight and (bottom l.) under incandescent light

(Below) Nan Palmer with a free-form velveteen malachite; (r.) a displayready rhodochrosite from LuxeRox

David Hakimian Nan Palmer

Founder, LuxeRox; owner, Facets Jewelry Consulting, Denver LuxeRox cofounder Kelly Selcer and I had a full agenda in Tucson. We first had to replenish our best-­selling mineral and crystal specimens: sky blue celestite from Madagascar, azurite malachite from Morocco, and royal purple amethyst from Uruguay. Our main goal was to further develop our wholesale offerings of ­mineral specimens for our retail partners, and some of our favorite finds from this trip include ruby in zoisite, which is mined near the base of Mount Kilimanjaro. Another new offering is a gemmy, fiery-orange spessartite garnet specimen. And we are proud to offer rhodochrosite specimens from the Sweet Home Mine in our home state of Colorado.

Multicolored rough sapphires from Rock Creek Sapphire

Jeff White

Owner, J.L. White Fine Gemstones, Kingsport, Tenn. This year I stumbled across some of the finest imperial topaz faceting rough I’ve seen in many, many years, and I purchased pieces of the most incredible color and clarity. That was definitely not something I expected to find. I also purchased a very fine lot of tsavorite garnet rough, some copper-bearing tourmaline, blue-green to purplish-pink color-change garnets, and other rarities that weren’t on my list. It was also a surprisingly good year for American gems, and I picked up a large lot of fine unheated Montana sapphires and even some facet-grade Colorado aquamarine!

Carved fruits and veggies from Gustav Caesar at the Pueblo Show and AGTA were a favorite. They are mostly different carved beryls and tourmalines. Pyrope garnets were a rare find from Todd Wacks, also at the Pueblo show. They have a strong color-change quality, shifting from an intense deep purple to a silky pink. We had a fun time with these stones; they will show up in several one-of-a-kind pieces during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

COLOR-CHANGE GARNETS: TUCSON TODD’S GEMS/MARY VAN DER AA FINE JEWELS (2)

Founder, DEH Jewelry ­Solutions, New York City


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June 10th to 13th - 2022

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181

the industry authority

SUMMER 2022

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault PHOTO FINISH

CLICK CLICK BOOM

Each camera necklace (starting price: $29,000) is one of a kind, crafted in 18k gold with assorted gemstones. This model features imperial topaz; pink, green, teal, and watermelon tourmaline; cat’seye alexandrite; apatite; and pink, yellow, and multicolored sapphires.

MEXICAN DESIGNER DANIELA Villegas is perhaps best known for her wearable menagerie of fine jewelry: sparkling scarabs, bejeweled beetles, colorful crustaceans— name a creature, and chances are that Villegas has rendered it in gemstones and gold. But this Say Cheese necklace is a very different animal. “Becoming a mom changed me and the way I see the world,” she says. “I don’t want to miss a thing of my babies. Seeing them play and laugh, grow and discover makes my heart beat with so much pride and gratitude. I like to feel that my eyes are the camera of these priceless memories.” —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

CAMERA ACTION “The mechanism and movements are super important,” explains Villegas. “You can press the action button to ‘take’ the picture.” Inside the camera is a Polaroidstyle engravable 18k gold white plate: “a memory that can stay forever with you.”

MEMORY MAKER “I wanted to create something fun, playful—something that you can cherish,” the designer says. “A locket with a cheerful vibe.” Say Cheese is part of Villegas’ Threads of Love collection—pieces she hopes will inspire us to “always seek beauty in everything we do.”

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the vault

BRIDAL

182 Eva bypass ring with 7.71 cts. t.w. oval emeralds in 18k darkened white gold; price on request; Katherine Jetter; info@ katherinejetter.com; katherinejetter.com

TREND GAME

BYPASS IT ON ALTHOUGH THE TOI ET MOI ring has been around for centuries— Napoleon famously proposed to ­Josephine with a sapphire and diamond one in 1796—thanks to the newly engaged Machine Gun Kelly and Megan Fox (and ring designer Stephen Webster), the style is seeing renewed interest, prompting a wave of designs with a variety of fresh interpretations. A ring featuring two diamonds is classically bridal, but shoppers might opt for two different gemstones, whether to represent a birthstone or simply a color preference. Modern or classic, the toi et moi is currently riding a pop-culture high, but take it from Josephine—the style is eternal. —BRITTANY SIMINITZ

Engagement ring in platinum and 18k yellow gold with 2.02 ct. oval diamond and 0.27 ct. t.w. diamond melee; $56,000; rahaminov.com

Split shank Toi et Moi with 1.87 ct. light blue Sri Lankan sapphire trapezoid and 0.34 ct. diamond baguette in 14k yellow gold; $6,750; Marrow; info@ marrowfine.com; marrowfine.com

Toi et Moi ring in 18k yellow gold with 4.5 cts. t.w. emeralds; price on request; Lauren Addison; 646-836-9821; laurenaddison.com

Open ring in 18k yellow gold with 1.75 ct. ruby and 1.75 ct. pink sapphire; price on request; Jemma Wynne; 212-980-8500; jemmawynne.com Bypass ring in 18k yellow gold and platinum with 0.98 ct. emerald, 1.42 ct. yellow diamond, and 0.5 ct. t.w. diamonds; $12,000; Nicole Rose Jewelry; 215-922-7677; nicole rosejewelry.com

HOT STOCK TIP

IN GOOD SHAPE It’s easy to make a compelling case for oval diamonds, a growing preference among brides looking to deviate from the classic round brilliant. Boasting comparable sparkle with a shape that promises to elongate the finger, the oval is universally flattering and built to stand the test of time (and trends). “We are definitely seeing fancy shapes taking the lead with ovals, our Mováls, and emeralds being the most popular,” says Melanie Goldfiner Goldberg of Los Angeles–based Rahaminov Diamonds, whose oval ring (pictured) echoes a style recently spotted on the finger of newly engaged Olympic gymnast Simone Biles. —BS

SUPERCHIC YELLOW GOLD RINGS BY BIPOC-OWNED BRANDS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/bridal FOR THAT AND MORE.

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the vault

MEN’S JEWELRY

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Bracelet in 18k yellow gold with black onyx; $1,944; Marco dal Maso; ciao@ marcodalmaso.com; marcodalmaso.com

Wide ring in 14k yellow gold with black mother-ofpearl; $1,695; gabrielny.com

Necklace with hessonite in 14k yellow gold and warm rainbow silk; $1,325; Mined and Found; info@ minedandfound.com; minedandfound.com

Wide ring in 14k white and rose gold with 0.42 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,895; gabrielny.com

Heal bracelet with malachite and wood beads; $125; Ginette NY; 954-960-3948; ginette-ny.com

Diamond Thunderbird gold and onyx beaded necklace; $9,250; Jacquie Aiche; 310-550-7529; jacquieaiche.com

HOT STOCK TIP

OF ICE AND MEN TREND GAME

THE BEAD GOES ON THOSE PAYING ATTENTION to men’s red-carpet style have no doubt witnessed a surplus of jewelry like never before. Gone are the days when a simple brooch or cufflink was enough to make a statement—instead, we’ve grown accustomed to seeing layers of necklaces and assortments of brooches on the guys. And it’s not just for Hollywood fellas like Harry Styles and Jared Leto. The Atlanta Braves’ Joc Pederson famously wore a strand of pearls during last year’s World Series, coupling his unique SUMMER 2022

brand of machismo with what has traditionally been labeled as matronly. The blogosphere is still talking about it. But for the everyday guy whose life seldom, if ever, involves a stroll on the red carpet (or the baseball diamond, for that matter), beaded jewelry is a smart way to experiment with a masculine jewelry style. A wide range of colors and gemstones means endless personalization options that allow men to go as subtle or as bold as they’d like. —BRITTANY SIMINITZ

It took Gabriel & Co. 30 years to come around to the men’s jewelry market, but since debuting a line fully dedicated to men last year, in response to consumer demand, the New York City–based manufacturer is all in. The collection—composed of 125 styles ranging in price from $150 to $7,000, including pendants, cuff bracelets, and chains in a range of metals—arrives at a key moment for men’s jewelry, as millennial and Gen Z consumers push sales and interest in the category to new heights. Numerous pieces are crowd-pleasing styles—think signet rings and dog-tag pendants—but those hankering for a 1980s flashback (herringbone!) won’t be disappointed. —BS JCKONLINE.COM




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the industry authority

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME

say popular topics are style guides, educational snippets, and—believe it or not—recordings of them at work. Miranda Harris Hamlin, owner and creator at Seattle-based And Arlen, says she often uses TikTok, where she has 65,000 followers, to film herself performing tasks like unpacking supplies or preparing customer orders. “Giving customers and potential customers a behind-the-scenes glimpse builds a better bond with them,” she says.

(Below) A TikTok from Maejean Vintage. Marketer Jess Velke likes the app’s “casual” vibe.

USE RELEVANT HASHTAGS More so than other social platforms, hashtags can help expand the reach of your TikTok content, since the default home page when users open the app is populated with algorithmically selected content. “You have limited space, so be smart about your choices,” Hamlin says.

SCHOOL OF TIKTOK

C

(FROM TOP) SVETIKD/E+/GETTY; COURTESY MAEJEAN VINTAGE

Come for the funny dance moves, stay for the branding boost BY MARTHA C. WHITE

ONTR ARY TO WHAT you might think, it’s not just teenagers who can draw a following on TikTok. The app marries the shareability of a social network with filters and sound effects for filming and editing short-form videos right from your phone. “TikTok is a unique channel,” says Shane O’Neill, vice president at Fruchtman Marketing in Toledo, Ohio. “There’s really no rule with what type of content you can post, but generally speaking, they’re short clips, and they tend to be humorous.”

START A DIALOGUE While the user base skews young, the app has more than 1 billion users, and companies as diverse as Red Bull, Chipotle, and Amazon have embraced it. “I view TikTok as an opportunity to engage with our followers,” says Jess Velke, photographer and digital marketer at Lancaster, Pa.–based online retailer Maejean Vintage. “I’m not afraid to get a little silly on TikTok.”

DOWNLOAD, THEN BROWSE After downloading the free app, you can film videos, anywhere from a few seconds to a couple of minutes, on a smartphone in portrait mode. You can also save recorded audio to use in a later recording or tap the in-app music library to create a soundtrack. (TikTok has license agreements with the copyright holders of the music in its library.) “It’s not that difficult to develop that skill once you see other people doing it,” says Matthew A. Perosi, chief thinker at Jeweler Websites, a jewelry industry internet marketing consultancy. Jewelry retailers and designers

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Responding to comments gives you the chance to turn good feedback into de facto brand ambassadorship as TikTok’s algorithm selects new content to show viewers. “We get requests from followers who want to see specific content,” Velke says. “Listening to our audience has given us endless ideas.”

ADD NEW VIDEOS FREQUENTLY TikTok influencers post multiple times a day—unrealistic for busy retailers and designers. But consistent engagement— one to a few times per week—is critical. “Videos are all about volume and connection,” says Madison Wright, founder and designer at Chicago jeweler Madberet. After posting “dozens and dozens” of clips since joining TikTok in December 2020, Wright went viral in January, when more than a million people watched her opining on whether or not an engagement ring design should be a surprise (she says no). “Over 1 million people saw my face and associated that with jewelry expertise,” she says. “Exposure like that will continue to grow Madberet over time.”


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‌THE GOODS The Vívomove Sport blends analog looks with smartwatch functions

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

VÍVOMOVE SPORT HYBRID SMARTWATCH With the ubiquity of smartwatches, users may not want the same look as everyone else. That’s where the Vívomove Sport Hybrid Smartwatch from Garmin steps up. At $179.99, this cost-conscious model is aimed at people who want a classic, ­analog way to tell time yet also want to stay connected and track their health and fitness. It displays the hours and minutes using traditional ticking watch hands that move to reveal a hidden touch-screen display. With stylish colors like cocoa and mint green, this iOS- and Android-compatible smartwatch is a smart way to stay fit and fashionable. —KAREN DYBIS

What it does: If owning a watch is your first priority, then the Vívomove Sport really is the best of both old and new school. In watch mode, it has an elegant and simple display. When you connect to its smartwatch capabilities, it has all the functionality that you’d want, from breathwork activities for focus and stress relief to pregnancy tracking.

What we liked: The Vívomove Sport has a well-organized suite of health and wellness tools, including Body Battery energy monitoring and all-day stress tracking that is hidden when you want it to be. But those sleek ticking watch hands are the main draw. When you interact with the touch screen, the hands move away dramatically, with a super satisfying sound, no less.

Best feature: The watch is both comfortable to wear, thanks to its silicone band, and colorfully appealing to look at. The Vívomove Sport’s best feature, however, is its five days of battery life, which means you’re not constantly recharging it. That’s one way to reduce stress and boost wellness right off the bat. ($179.99; garmin.com)

SUPPLY IN DEMAND

Whether a photo is for Instagram or your website, jewelers agree: The right picture sells a stone. Capturing the light and how it plays off a surface is key to showing off the inherent qualities of a piece of jewelry, and being able to control that light in your photography is what Bigsofti is all about. This portable LED soft light delivers perfectly diffused lighting for smartphones, cameras, tablets, and laptops, giving users ­Hollywood-esque lighting options. With five brightness presets and the ability to adjust between 10% and 100% brightness, jewelers will be able to select the perfect amount of illumination to make their work pop on screen. ($99; bigsofti.com) —KD ARE APPLE AIRTAGS A SECURITY RISK? SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE. SUMMER 2022

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COURTESY GARMIN AND BIGSOFTI

BIGSOFTI



PRODUCT

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190

Mira Style

VAHAN Jewelry

Diamond rings are romantic gestures that profess your love for each other. They are also stunning fashion accessories to light you up every day.

Adding color is always a good idea. Our new London blue topaz pieces were designed to make a statement from morning until night. Add a London blue VAHAN piece to your collection to feel beautiful no matter the occasion. Designed and handcrafted in New York.

606 S. Olive St., Suite 2105 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-5233 Fax: 213-622-5549 Email: info@mirastyle.com Website: mirastylejewelry.com

Kimberly Collins Colored Gems

18124 Wedge Parkway, Suite 2018 Reno, NV 89511 Tel: 775-622-0600 Email: casey@kimberlycollinsgems.com Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Kimberly Collins Colored Gems specializes in fabulous, natural gemstones and an 18k gold jewelry line that showcases these juicy gemstones in simple yet fresh designs.

Port Chester, NY Tel: 914-937-1800 Fax: 914-937-1805 Email: sales@vahanjewelry.com Website: vahanjewelry.com

Stuller

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com Stuller’s diamond stud earrings come in all shapes and sizes—in natural and lab-grown—making them the perfect accessories for everyday style or special events. Shop the entire collection at stuller.com/ diamondstudearrings.

Quality Gold Inc. Rembrandt Charms

370 S. Youngs Road Williamsville, NY 14221 Tel: 800-828-7840 Fax: 800-828-7811 Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Website: rembrandtcharms.com Rembrandt Charms displays produce $4,500–$7,500 in sales per square foot! The repeat business and sales generated through our Business Building Charm Program spells success for retail jewelers just like you!

SUMMER 2022

P.O. Box 18490 500 Quality Blvd. Fairfield, OH 45018-0490 Tel: 800-354-9833 Fax: 513-682-1100 Email: info@qgold.com Website: qgold.com Leslie’s has the latest trends made with quality craftsmanship. A Lifetime Gold Guarantee and seasonal dating and stock balancing are available to qualifying accounts. Call 800-221-2628 to set an appointment to view the Leslie’s line.

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191

Arch Crown Inc. Pompos Jewelry Corp. 606 S. Hill St., Suite 309 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-624-1441 Email: quality@pomposjewelry.com Website: pomposjewelry.com Handmade ring in platinum 950 and 18k yellow gold features an 8.02 ct. cushion-cut fancy yellow VS2 GIA-certified natural diamond accentuated with 2.15 cts. t.w. ideal-cut round diamonds F+ VS1+.

DA Gold 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-819-1111 Fax: 212-730-5706 Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Website: dagoldproducts.com

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: info@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Poly-Lam Thermal Transfer Computer Tags. Start tagging your merchandise with Arch Crown computer tags. Poly-Lam material has superior print durability and can withstand ultrasonic cleaning; text and bar code will not rub off. ClearTail tags available in gold, silver, and white. JCK Las Vegas Booth 52033

Le Vian® 235 Great Neck Road Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 516-466-7202 Fax: 516-466-7292 Email: sales@levian.com Website: levian.com

This trio of fashionable 18k gold bangles is made in Italy and adorned with diamonds ranging from 0.25 ct. to 0.5 ct.

This sweet as honey pendant from Le Vian’s Bee Positive™ collection, featuring Chocolate Diamonds® and Nude Diamonds™ in 14k Honey Gold™, earned a 2022 Centurion Excellence in Design Award.

Uneek Jewelry

RDI Diamonds

550 S. Hill St., Suite 1635 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 213-622-5119 Email: info@uneekjewelry.com Website: uneek.com

2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 844-742-6591 Website: rdidiamonds.com

Fall in love with this extravagant pair of chrome indicolite earrings totaling 11.15 cts. t.w. indicolite. Topped with 1.3 cts. t.w. step-cut trapezoids, all cut to perfection and micro-pavéd with 0.9 cts. t.w. round diamonds to make this piece dazzle!

The moment when You and Me become We should be celebrated. Trust the RDI Diamonds® You Me We® stock program to offer premium diamonds in a flexible, customized package with extended terms and benefits.

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Rare and Forever Natural Diamonds by RDI Diamonds Dabakarov 62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Email: info@dabakarov.com Exceptional is our standard.

Quality Gold Inc. P.O. Box 18490 500 Quality Blvd. Fairfield, OH 45018-0490 Tel: 800-354-9833 Fax: 513-682-1100 Email: info@qgold.com Website: qgold.com Be prepared with choices for when consumers ask for lab-grown diamond jewelry. From basics to bridal to fashion to core essentials, this jewelry is made for modern-day consumers.

2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 877-620-1333 Fax: 844-742-6591 Email: cc@rareandforever.com Website: become.rareandforever.com/learn-more/ Are you sick of shrinking margins, internet price comparisons, big-box market dominators, inconsistent lab grading, and competing with the major online diamond retailers? Rare and Forever Natural Diamonds is the solution for you!

John Atencio 3000 E. First Ave. Denver, CO 80206 Tel: 720-445-5292 Email: wholesale@johnatencio.com Website: johnatencio.com Discover the rich jewel tones of Treasure, the latest collection by designer John Atencio. Blending emerald-cut tanzanite and rhodolite garnet with baguette diamonds, John Atencio brings his impeccable quality and artistry to this exquisite Treasure collection.

RJO Inc. Studio Baharra 48 W. 48th St., Suite 1204 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 917-476-9631 Email: info@baharra.com Website: baharra.com Outside-the-box bridal engagement ring designs from Baharra bridal collection. MSRP: starting at $1,500

SUMMER 2022

115 W. Fourth St. N. Newtown, IA 50208 Tel: 641-792-4900 Fax: 641-792-9251 Email: rjo@rjomembers.com Website: rjomembers.com For over half a century, we’ve put millions of dollars into the hands of our retail members/owners through cash-back rebates. RJO members also have access to free seminars, buying trips, and low, pre-negotiated vendor prices.

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SHOWCASE

Shy Creation

631 Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Fax: 213-623-0860 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com Meet Shy Creation’s 2022 Jewelers’ Choice Award winners, including our Grand Prize Paper Hearts bracelet, at JCK Luxury Booth LUX129.

Omi Privé

193

SilverMasterpiece

550 S. Hill St., Suite 793 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 800-867-2515, ext. 2 Email: support@silvermasterpiece.com Website: silvermasterpiece.com A beautiful line of high-quality sterling silver jewelry with genuine and lab-grown stones. Hundreds of styles, top-notch clasps, low MSRP from $30. Visit us at the 2022 American Gem Trade Association section of the JCK show. JCK Las Vegas Booth 29081

Sylvie

West Covina, CA Tel: 626-331-4533 Email: jewelry@omiprive.com Website: omiprive.com

5200 McDermott Road Plano, TX 75024 Tel: 214-472-9993, ext. 116 Email: gary@sylviecollection.com Website: sylviecollection.com

At Omi Privé we seek out the most exquisite gemstones and work entirely in their service, employing expert American craftsmanship and singular jewelry designs to accentuate their natural beauty.

Sylvie is a luxury jewelry brand designed by a woman, for a woman. The brand is backed by over 30 years of traditions and expertise set by its cofounders and a collection of more than 3,000 pieces.

Stuller

SPB Creations LLC/SPB Gems

Stuller’s 302® Fine Jewelry is quickly gaining national attention. Browse jewelry spotlighted in major fashion magazines, including Harper’s Bazaar and Elle, and learn more about the amazing benefits offered at stuller.com/302finejewelry.

SPB Creations has been a source of the finest quality precious and semiprecious gemstones for over 17 generations. Led by Bhupendra K. Mookim, SPB maintains a commitment to quality service and integrity toward each customer.

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

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62 W. 47th St., Suite 808 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-719-5170 Email: info@spbgems.com Website: spbgems.com

SUMMER 2022


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194

Shula New York 22 W. 48th St., Suite 806 NY, NY 10036 Tel: 212-302-0022 Fax: 646-357-9735 Email: info@shulany.com Website: shulany.com Since 2001, Shula New York, an American Gem Society member, has created the latest trends in gold, diamond, and colored gem luxury. The designs, produced in our New York City diamond-district studio, include the awardwinning Sea of Life collection.

Phillip Gavriel 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Email: info@phillipgavriel.com Website: phillipgavriel.com From Phillip Gavriel’s Popcorn collection, this Curb Cuff bangle is made with sterling silver and accented with 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: $360

Amden Jewelry 550 S. Hill St., Suite 950 Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: 213-327-0863 Fax: 213-327-0865 Email: info@amdeninc.com Amden is a leading jewelry manufacturing company in the industry for over 40 years. We specialize in programs for bracelets, bands, riviera necklaces, studs, eternity bands, and more. We also provide special orders, along with a full-service loose diamond department and large stones.

Stuller 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com ever&ever® is a complete bridal program featuring high-quality, customizable rings. With your passion to create, ever&ever® helps you sell to every customer and deliver an unforgettable customization experience. Learn more at stuller.com/everandever.

DiamSpark LGD 580 Fifth Ave., Suite 1500 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-221-4400 Fax: 212-221-4401 Email: labgrown@diamspark.com Website: diamspark.com We at DiamSpark bring you an epitome of modern luxury, lab-grown diamonds. Explore our extensive collection of HPHT/CVD loose stones 0.8 mm–6 mm, certified stones 0.3 ct.–7 ct., parcels, layouts, matching pairs, and jewelry.

SUMMER 2022

Jye’s International Inc. 1633 Bayshore Highway, Suite 136 Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com Our timeless jewelry combines fine materials, exquisite design, and remarkable workmanship to achieve stunning results worthy of being enjoyed for generations to come.

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Samuel B. 98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 234 S. Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 516-466-1826 Fax: 516-466-1827 Email: mathew@samuelb.com Website: wholesale.samuelb.com Experience the wide array of genuine gemstones within the Samuel B. Sterling Silver Birthstone collection, inspired by the immeasurable beauty of nature and the ancient traditions of Balinese and Thai jewelry craftsmanship. Now introducing crosses and exciting new ring sets.

Parade Design Inc. 1327 S. Myrtle Ave. Monrovia, CA 91016 Tel: 213-612-5875 Email: info@paradedesign.com Website: paradedesign.com This latest beauty from the award-winning Reverie collection features a bountiful harvest of natural colored diamonds, 1.65 cts. t.w. (Style BD5062A-FD). MSRP: $8,775

Rare and Forever Natural Diamonds by RDI Diamonds 2300 W. Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 877-620-1333 Fax: 844-742-6591 Email: cc@rareandforever.com Website: become.rareandforever.com/learn-more/ Are you sick of shrinking margins, internet price comparisons, big-box market dominators, inconsistent lab grading, and competing with the major online diamond retailers? Rare and Forever Natural Diamonds is the solution for you!

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Royal Chain 2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com New in gold for 2022, this 14k Cuban bracelet from the Primavera collection includes turquoise and mother-of-pearl accents. Also available with onyx and mother-of-pearl. MSRP: $3,950

S. Georgios Inc. 23-53 31st St. Astoria, NY 11105 Tel: 718-204-7807 Email: sgeorgiosinc@gmail.com Website: georgioscollections.com Handmade fine Greek jewelry brought to you from New York. Original designs crafted from 18k and 22k gold and rhodium reflect the Byzantine era style. Our unique fine silver line, Yianni Creations, is made with natural stones on a Greek island just for you.

Midas Chain 151 Veterans Drive Northvale, NJ 07647 Tel: 201-244-1150 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Our new paper-clip y necklace with fluted star medallion in 14k gold is a must-have for 2022! Midas Chain—made to love forever.

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196

Christopher Designs Inc.

Lika Behar Collection

50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10026 Tel: 800-955-0970 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com

80 Triangle Blvd. Carlstadt, NJ 07072 Tel: 201-933-7200, ext. 1 Fax: 201-933-2700 Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Website: likabehar.com

Christopher Designs is a New York City–based jewelry designer and manufacturer headed by Christopher Slowinski. Our portfolio of proprietary diamonds, including the original Crisscut®, L’Amour Crisscut®, and brand-new lab-created Neon Crisscut®, are designed to maximize size, brilliance, and value.

Award-winning designer Lika Behar creates unique works of wearable art inspired by ancient civilizations and the Mediterranean. Her hand-wrought individual designs reflect ancient history as well as the modern feminine spirit.

Royal India / RIU Jewels / Aresa New York

HardRock Summit

10 W. 46th St., 19th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-616-7661 Fax: 212-616-7666 Email: ınfo@royalindiausa.com; info@aresanewyork.com Website: riujewels.com; aresanewyork.com

7900 E. Union Ave. DTC Corporate Center III, Suite 1100 Denver, CO 80237 Tel: 303-946-7965 Email: info@hardrocksummit.com Website: hardrocksummit.com

RIU Jewels’ designs are 18k gold, characterized by timeless and innovative use of color and movement. Our Art Deco collection uses calibré-cut stones, specifically cut to fit like puzzle pieces—offered in emerald, ruby, and blue sapphire with diamond accents.

With its two shows, Sparkle & Joy (jewelry and gemstones) and Evolution (minerals and fossils), the HardRock Summit offers endless opportunities for holiday season business and memorable experiences September 8–11, 2022, in Denver.

Effy Jewelry Tel: 877-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com Expertly crafted, intricately cut. Effy Jewelry redefines classic diamond jewelry silhouettes by pairing brilliant baguettes with 14k white gold. The result: contemporary sparkle. Effy Classique 14k white gold diamond bangle, 1.24 cts. t.w., Web ID: 12808. Effy Classique 14k white gold diamond hoop earrings, 0.77 ct. t.w., Web ID: 12818

SUMMER 2022

Tarz Jewelry 926 Sok. No: 14 Konak Izmir Izmir 35250, Turkey Tel: 90-532-231-9738 Email: info@crushfinejewelry.com Website: crushfinejewelry.com Jewelry for every day. Crush Fine Jewelry brings together precious stones such as gold, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and tourmaline to create a timeless and unique handcrafted jewelry collection. The collection features endless combinations as the “Layers” are the signature feature of Crush Fine Jewelry.

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PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Stuller 302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com With new styles in complementary colors and finishes, Packaging and Displays 2022–2023 makes it easier than ever for you to build your brand and seal a lasting first impression. Learn more at stuller.com/packaginganddisplayscatalog.

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Schofer Germany/ GmbH & Co. KG Freiburger Strasse 3 Pforzheim, 75179, Germany Tel: 49-7231-91030 Fax: 49-7231-101599 Email: info@schofer.com Website: schofer.com Veri Peri—Pantone Color 2022! Chains and bracelets get cheerful, due to the new Pantone color. In acrylic with high abrasion-resistance. Veri Peri—a dynamic blue mixed with the energy of red.

Gabriel & Co 545 W. 45th St., Third Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: amccoy@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com Discover the iconic Bujukan collection n. inspired by the Balinese art of persuasion. ct Delicate, yet fresh and fun, it’s the perfect he gift or self-purchase and might just be the start of a new love affair! Shop online or om. find a retail store near you at gabrielny.com.

Mira Style 606 S. Olive St., Suite 2105 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-622-5233 Fax: 213-622-5549 Email: info@mirastyle.com Website: mirastylejewelry.com This 18k white gold engagement ring mounting is set with a brilliant round diamond.

Bellarri

Almor Design

Tel: 800-255-0192 Email: brent@bellarri.com Website: bellarri.com

98 Cuttermill Road, Suite 125 Great Neck, NY 11021 Email: info@almordesign.com Website: almordesign.com

Bellarri…Moving Fashion Forward. Cool gradations of gemstone hues reign in Bellarri’s 2022 signature creations. Pairing innovative designs with vibrant gemstone combinations creates a true “Tapestry in Color.” Bellarri illuminates the “everyday chic” that women truly desire.

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This necklace features 74.24 cts. t.w. natural yellow diamonds set in 18k gold and weighs 104.69 grams. The GIA Certificate No. is 6213499019 with a grade of Fancy Yellow, and it’s available as a set.

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ADVERTISING

INDEX

198

Alex Velvet pg. 54 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Almor Design, Heskia pg. 16-17 Website: almordesign.com Email: info@almordesign.com Toll-Free: 800-437-5421 Amden Jewelry pg. 94 Website: amdeninc.com Phone: 213-327-0863 Fax: 213-327-0865 Arpas Gold Jewellery pg. 99 Website: arpas.com Email: info@arpasusa.com Phone: 212-869-5548 Aspendos pg. 101 Website: aspendosjewellery.com Email: info@aspendosjewellery.com Phone: 703-340-9722 Baharra pg. 171 Website: baharra.com Email: info@baharra.com Phone: 917-476-9631 BELLARRI pg. 49 Website: bellarri.com Toll-Free: 800-255-0192 Bhanderi Lab Grown Diamonds Inc. pg. 137 Website: blgd.in Email: usa@blgd.in Phone: 212-278-0905 Bottom Line Marketing/ National Rarities pg. 183 Email: rachelh@bottomlinemarketing.com Phone: 561-914-8323

SUMMER 2022

Christopher Designs pg. 103 Website: christopherdesigns.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970 DA Gold pg. 135 Website: dagoldproducts.com Email: da@dagoldproducts.com Phone: 212-819-1111 Toll-Free: 800-223-6639 Fax: 212-730-5706 Dabakarov pg. 30-31 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888 Diamspark Lab Grown Diamonds pg. 141 Website: diamspark.com Email: labgrown@diamspark.com Phone: 212-221-4400 Fax: 212-221-4401 Effy pg. Back Cover Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Festina Lotus SA pg. 79 Website: festina.com Email: Jason@festina.com Phone: + 34 93 486 7508 Gabriel & Co. pg. 45 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. 35, 47, Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250 Hard Rock Summit pg. 155 Website: hardrocksummit.com Email: info@hardrocksummit.com Phone: 303-946-7965

Harmon pg. 90-91 Website: harmongrp.com Email: rick.arnemann@ harmongrp.com Phone: 615-256-3393 Fax: 615-256-3464

Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 160 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778

Hoover & Strong pg. 97 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Labon LLC pg. 180 Website: labondiamonds.com Email: sales@labondiamonds.com Phone: 315-207-7066

JCK Events pg. 80, 89, 153 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626

Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 10-11 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411

Lika Behar Collection pg. 52 Website: likabehar.com Email: likabehar@likabehar.com Phone: 201-933-7200

JIS Show pg. 143, 179 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612

Midas pg. 4-5 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

John Atencio pg. 25 Website: johnAtencio.com Phone: 720-445-5292 Email: wholesale@johnatencio.com

Mioro pg. 20-21 Website: miorogold.com Email: info@miorogold.com Phone: 212-302-6077 Fax: 212-302-6018

Jubilee Diamond Instrument Limited pg. 55 Website: gemlogis.com Email: enquiry@jubileediamond.com.hk Phone: +852 2351 7888 Fax: +852 2351 7333

Mira Style Jewellery Company Limited pg. 12-13 Website: estore.mirastyle.com Email: info@mirastyle.com Phone: 213-622-5233 Fax: 213-622-5549

Jye’s International pg. 33 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880

Omi Privé pg. 167 Website: omiprive.com Email: prive@omigems.com Toll-Free: 877-OMI-GEMS

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ADVERTISING

INDEX Parade Designs pg. 37 Website: paradedesign.com Email: info@paradedesign.com Phone: 213-627-4019 Pompos Jewelry pg. 169 Website: pomposjewelry.com Email: quality@pomposjewelry.com Phone: 213-624-1441 Quality Gold, Inc 8-9 Website: Qgold.com Email: info@Qgold.com Phone: 513-942-7659 Toll-free: 800-354-9833 Fax: 513-682-1100 Toll-free Fax: 800-686-7184 Rand & Paseka pg. 78 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006 RDI Diamonds pg. 38-39, 81-88 Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768 Rembrandt Charms pg. 22-23 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811 Riddhi Corporation LLP pg. 151 Website: rclgd.com Email: kautil@vishnuexport.com Phone: 0261 2550073, +91 9327392476

RJO pg. 185 Website: rjomembers.com Email: rjo@rjomembers.com Phone: 641-792-4900 Toll-Free: 800-247-1774 Fax: 641-792-9251 Toll-Free Fax: 877-252-4542 Royal Chain Group pg. Gatefold cover, 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960 Royal India USA pg. 175 Website: royalindiausa.com Phone: 212-616-7661 S. Georgios Inc. pg. 14-15 Website: GeorgiosCollections.com Email: sgeorgiosinc@gmail.com Phone: 718-204-7807

Shula New York pg. 74 Website: shulany.com Email: info@shulany.com Phone: 212-302-0022 Fax: 646-357-9735 Shy Creation Inc. pg. 6-7 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749 SPB Gems pg. 165 Website: spbgems.com Email: info@spbgems.com Phone: 212-719-5170 Stuller Inc. pg. 56-73, 189 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655

Samuel B. pg. 145 Website: SamuelB.com Email: info@SamuelB.com Phone: 516-466-1826 Toll-Free: 855-SAMUELB

Sylvie pg. 29 Website: sylviecollection.com Email: cassie@spectrumdiamonds.com Phone: 800-992-3426 Fax: 214-472-9990

Schofer pg. 51 Website: schofer.com Email: info@schofer.com Phone: +49 (0) 7231-91030

Tarz Jewelry Inc. pg. 107 Website: crushfinejewelry.com Email: info@crushfinejewelry.com Phone: 90 532-231-9738

Shanghai Lao Feng Xiang pg. 18-19, 77 Website: laofengxiang.com

Tim Roark Inc. pg. 50 Website: timroarkinc.com Email: info@trimportsatl.com Phone: 404-872-8937 Toll-free: 800-568-2011 Fax: 404-872-9346

199

Umicore pg. 186 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 Uneek Jewelry Inc. pg. 26-27 Website: uneekjewelry.com Email: info@uneekjewelry.com Phone: 213-622-5119 Toll-Free: 888-BE-UNEEK Fax: 213-622-5115 VAHAN Jewelry pg. 177 Website: vahanjewelry.com Email: sales@vahanjewelry.com Phone: 914-937-1800 Toll-free: 800-365-6101 Fax: 914-937-1805 Zen Diamond pg. 105 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698

Copyright ©2022 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 153 No. 1 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 1 time a year in May by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, a Division of RELX Inc., 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. Circulation records are maintained at 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, 201 Merritt 7, Norwalk, CT 06851. JCK is a registered trademark of RELX Inc., used under license. This advertiser index is published as a convenience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

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200

THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

THE EIGHTH WONDER Italian cinema star Monica Vitti, known for such films as L’Avventura and La Notte, was one of Bulgari’s many glamorous fans

KAREN RADKAI/CONDÉ NAST/SHUTTERSTOCK

BULGARI JEWELS HAVE adorned many an iconic actress, from Ingrid Bergman to Elizabeth Taylor to Jessica Chastain. Here, Monica Vitti wears the Seven Wonders necklace, in platinum with 97.61 cts. t.w. diamonds and seven cushion-cut Colombian emeralds weighing in at a whopping 118.46 cts. t.w. (not to mention the matching earrings and ring). Though Vitti made five films with director ­Michelangelo Antonioni—six if you count her voice-over in 1957’s Il ­Grido—she didn’t appear in many Hollywood movies because she was self-conscious about her English. As this 1963 photo attests, Vitti’s influence went far beyond language. —LORI WHITE

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