White Stuff report - Fashion, Buying and analytics

2022 White Stuff

FASHION MARKETING BA(HONS)

CAROL CLOUGHTON

209125803

3.0

APPENDIX REFERENCES

1.1 White Stuff

Established in 1985 as a brand to support two ski-lovers to live in the French alps. The high-end high-street brand has grown extensively throughout the years and now regards itself as having the same original ethos yet now targeting originality and creativity. To make ‘you come across differently to everyone else’ (White Stuff,2022). The brand appeals to the 30+ age bracket, with the current attempt to master the same level of interest from men as it does from its female consumer due to its new re-branding. Jo Jenkins, CEO, discussed with Fish(2021) for Drapers magazine that White Stuff undertook a rebrand “quietly” to better showcase the lifestyle retailer’s transformation during COVID-19. Jenkins highlights that this new re-branding has been long in the making since her employment in 2018, “we’ve never been a brand to do things for attention – we’ve never been a brand that says, ‘look at us!’.”(Fish,2021). Which in turn, suits they’re target market and consumer profile of their customers which will be discussed in section 1.4. This development in their marketing strategy sees the brand focussing more on “new colour combos and new shapes. New twists on old favourites [and] new materials that have a little less impact on the planet” (Fish,2021) all under the image of the new simplified hand-written logo. This now gives leverage on how to investigate new strategies for the brand. Focussing on the option of shorter fashion cycles and whether this would be a useful benefit to the brand.

1.2 The Market

The current state of the market is beginning to ease after the resulting pause in the industry’s supply chain post pandemic. McKinsey and Company (2020) indicate how shopping behaviour is changing. With digital shopping staying on the rise, millennials and high-income earners being the main purchasing power, decline in brand loyalty with consumers switching brands, consumers are now prioritising basics and essentials with value for money. Orendorff (2022) writes on themes emerging in the fashion industry for 2022 with growth and data in online apparel and accessories market. Over the next five years the online fashion’s 7.18% compounded annual growth rate will put the industry at +$1.0 trillion as COVID-19 pushed five years of growth in one year (Orendorff,2022). There is now a need for brands to develop a multi-channel strategy to establish a consistent and purchase-centred experience online. As seen below in Figure 1.

(Figure 1,Orendorff,A. 2022, Multi-channel model)

Orendorff also highlights the importance of brands adopting the Omni-channel operation within fashion retail as seen in Figure 2. Bridging the online-to-offline divide. The three points of purchase being Ecommerce website, Owned retail locations and wholesale partnerships or marketplaces. Which can be seen in brands whom target younger consumers such as Urban Outfitters, in which, they sell smaller brands recognised by their target market. This approach allows the brand to stay relevant in evolving micro-trends due to technology improvements allowing consumers to find and discover new ‘Edgy’ brands on social media platforms without having to rely on the mainstream brand.

(Figure 2, Orendorff,A. 2022, Omni-channel model)

1.3 The Competitors

Below is an example of White Stuff’s Directional map, listing their current existing competitors in today’s market.

Amongst many of White Stuff’s Competitors, Marks and Spencer has recently “bought a 25 percent stake in womenswear brand Nobody’s Child, as it seeks to accelerate a revival in its clothing arm” (Reuters,2021) as their new ‘Brands at M&S’ strategy which uses models such as wholesale agreements, exclusive collaborations, strategic acquisitions (as seen in their purchase of Jaeger) and equity investments, places the brand at the top of the chain in terms of innovation and forward thinking. This is evident in their shares rising 80 percent in 2021 and “beat[ing] forecasts for first-half profit and upgraded its earnings outlook for the second time this year” (Reuters,2021). This investment into a brand with a younger age bracket inevitably provides Marks and Spencer with more interest from outside consumers as Nobody’s Child’s strategy uses speed to market whilst still staying in the brand image in terms of the garments that they sell. Creating a perfect example of Orendorff’s Omni-channel operation, and how its successful.

(Figure 3, Directional Map, 2022)

1.3 Understanding the Consumer

COVID-19 has had a major impact on consumer behaviour and its changes of view towards sustainability and longevity with the emerging urge of slower fashion choices and guilt-free consumption. Consumers are more aware of sustainability and the impact that Fast Fashion has on the environment. With Individuals investing in high quality, core and statement garments … which they can style with different looks (Nguyen, K. 2021). Due to the sudden increase of working from home, consumers have more economic advantage to consider their purchasing power and allows them to evaluate garment decisions. Brands are now implementing sustainable project ranges to fit in-line with the consumers pulling brands to adapt their corporate social responsibility (CSR). White Stuff has been recognised by consumers in 2019 for their switch to Fairtrade cotton to understand the challenges and opportunities for established brands interested in sourcing Fairtrade cotton (LIssaman,2019). However, there is a current conflict between the Gen Z demographic and their purchasing behaviours. As this generation has overall buying power when it comes to spending their disposable incomes, the decisions to buy fast fashion items vs small brand/second-hand/eco-conscious ranges is at war with one another. Deeley (2021) records how “I Saw It First, as well as its competitors like Boohoo and Shein, can thank Gen-Z. The youngest generation of consumers can’t get enough of cheap, disposable clothes” yet Emma Chiu noted that Gen-Z is “leading the charge when it comes to sustainability and climate change and really pushing brands to do better” with an overall outcome that a culture shift is beginning to emerge in the buying behaviour of future generations. Due to Gen-Z growing up “in a world where fast fashion, the internet, social media and economic uncertainty have always been the norm” (Deeley,2021) a polarised needs and wants have been created and could be set to become stronger throughout the next generations to come. Which leads onto the question on what White Stuff need to change or adapt to, to stay relevant with their own 30+ target market for the future.

2.1 Research into White Stuff's Current Strategy

Marketers should recognise the role of environment in brand evaluation while developing marketing and environmental strategies (Akhter et al, 1987), explaining the influence consumer’s viewpoints have on a brand and their future strategies. An anonymous survey was conducted for this report to discover what it’s current target market wants from White Stuff as well as their own personal view of retail. Eighty percent of participants shopped at White Stuff with one hundred percent of them agreeing that they are conscious about where their clothes have come from and what they are made of (see Appendix 1). Giving evidence that their current developments into conscious ranges would be largely accepted and have been pulled into their current marketing strategies.

The following questions asked the participants whether they agreed that White Stuff was falling behind in the market which gave nearly a 50/50 difference (see appendix 2). Concluding that their current strategies are still not meeting the consumer’s needs. Further questioning what they thought White Stuff needed to improve (see appendix 3), which in turn, showed that the highest rated answer was to improve its sustainability efforts, presenting that their “duty to be kinder to the planet” is still not fulfilling the consumer’s wants and needs. Moreover, the second highest response was that the consumer also wanted White Stuff to create more interesting and frequent product ranges. Continuing the point made in section 1.4 that these polarised viewpoints are what brands need to merge to become successful. Which is why the next section will focus on the differences between fast fashion against speed to market and how White Stuff can apply one of these strategies to its marketing system.

Here are two SWOT analysis tables on fast fashion and speed to market.

2.2 SWOT Analysis of Fast Fashion against Speed to Market

Fast Fashion for White Stuff– inexpensive clothing produced rapidly by mass-market retailers in response to the latest trends.

Speed to Market for White Stuff – (STM) refers to the speed by which you’re able to establish your business presence through your product/service.

2.3 Recommendations

As seen in the table above, alongside the investigations into the survey conducted for this report. It is evident that White Stuff need to adapt its current marketing strategies to involve speed to market approaches. It’s consumer base of 30+ year olds respect a brand dedicated to adapting its supply chain efforts and CSR according to the growing concern in sustainability, yet, due to the change in times, this group of cliental also pull for the brand to release more frequent product ranges to suit their busy life. To adapt to these polarised viewpoints as well as keeping it’s brand image, White Stuff can use Orendorff’s Omni-channel and multi-channel models to its advantage by including the speed to market approach. A system named Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) can be used to help significantly reduce communication time across the global supply chain by making information immediately available via an internet interface (Bubonia, 2014). This can be used by the brand to allow them to introduce more product ranges without the CSR issues fast fashion brings. It is a key element of PLM is to minimise the amount of time used in the development and production processes of a garment while also minimising the number of mistakes that could happen in a normal route of supply chain communication. Two example activewear garments under the emerging trending theme of ‘Garden Party’ for Spring/Summer 22 identified by WGSN can be used as an example to show how White Stuff can adapt a trend into its own style and well-known use of pattern to fulfil the wants and needs for more frequent product ranges (see appendix 4). Appendix 5-_ shows the costings sheets representing these two garments that consist of a training jacket and sports leggings. These have been created on the award winning Bombyx PLM system founded by Lucy Blackley, launched in 2018, it reduces administrative tasks by 50%. Making this an ideal strategy for White Stuff to adapt to speed to market approaches and how this can be beneficial to the brand as well as staying within the emerging habit of microtrends and conscious buying habit. If this is included, their multi-channel strategy would be successful as the brand is already stocked in numerous online retailers, as well as developing a growing presence on online social media platforms such as Instagram at 82.6K following whilst still prioritising their high-street stores.

3.0 Summary

With the recent re-branding and the co-operation of re-considering their own conscious efforts. White Stuff can now investigate including multi-channel and omni-channel approaches to quicken their response rate to emerging trends affecting their consumer profile. Product Life-cycle Management systems are the answer to these upcoming issues and can therefore place White Stuff in a higher category and create a positive rapport with current and future consumers as the brand will therefore become more reliable for presenting more frequent product ranges whilst keeping the quality, sustainable, patterndriven persona. Still presenting the consumer to ‘come across differently to everyone else’ (White Stuff,2022) whilst staying up to date with technological advancements.

1.

5. Training Jacket - Costings and Purchase order 5.1

6. Drawstring Leggings - Costings and Purchase order

6.1

References

- Akhter et al (1987), ‘Influence on Brand Evaluation: Consumers’ Behaviour and Marketing Strategies’, Journal of Consumer Marketing, Vol 4, No.3

- Bubonia,J. (2014), ‘Apparel Quality: A Guide to Evaluating Sewn Products’, Bloomsbury.

- Baskin, Brian (2022), ‘Are Fashion’s Supply Chain Problem’s Easing?’, Business of Fashion, Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/briefings/global-markets/are-fashions-supply-chainproblems-easing/ (Accessed:16/05/22)

- Deely,R. (2021), ‘Why Fast Fashion Still Has Gen-Z’s Heart’, Business of Fashion, Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/sustainability/why-fast-fashion-still-has-gen-zs-heart/ (Accessed:20/05/22)

- Drewry (2022), World Container Index – 12 May, Available at: https://www.drewry.co.uk/supplychain-advisors/world-container-index-weekly-update/world-container-index-assessed-by-drewry (Accessed:16/05/22)

- Fang, E. (2008), ‘Customer Participation and the Trade-Off between New Product Innovativeness and Speed to Market’, Journal of Marketing, Vol. 72, No.4

- Fish,I. (2021), ‘White Stuff has ‘quietly’ rebranded, says CEO’, Drapers, Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/news/white-stuffs-quiet-newrebrand#:~:text=White%20Stuff%20has%20%22quietly%22%20rebranded,Jo%20Jenkins%20has%2 0told%20Drapers. (Accessed:16/05/22)

- Lissaman, C. (2019), ‘How White Stuff Went Fairtrade and Why Consumers Love It’, Available at: https://www.commonobjective.co/article/how-white-stuff-went-fairtrade-and-why-consumers-loveit, (Accessed:16/05/22)

- McKinsey & Company (2020), ‘The Great Consumer Shift: Ten Charts That Show How US Shopping Behaviour is Changing’, Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/business-functions/growthmarketing-and-sales/our-insights/the-great-consumer-shift-ten-charts-that-show-how-us-shoppingbehavior-is-changing (Accessed:16/05/22)

- Nguyen,K. (2021), Consumer Behaviour Changes Within the Fashion Industry Due to the Impact of the Covid-19 Outbreak’, Available at: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/consumer-behaviourchanges-within-fashion-industry-due-karennguyen#:~:text=Consumers%20are%20more%20aware%20of,can%20style%20with%20different% 20looks. (Accessed:16/05/22)

- Orendorff,A. (2022), ‘10 Trends styling 2022’s E-Commerce Fashion Industry: Growth and Data in Online Apparel and Accessories Market’, CommonThread, Available at:

https://commonthreadco.com/blogs/coachs-corner/fashion-ecommerce-industry-trends#fashionecommerce-trend-economics (Accessed: 16/05/22)

- Reuters (2021), ‘Britain’s M&S Buys 25% Stake in Nobody’s Child’, Business of Fashion, Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/news/retail/britains-ms-buys-25-stake-in-nobodys-child/ (Accessed:22/05/22)

- White Stuff (2022), Available at: https://www.whitestuff.com/ (Accessed: 16/05/22)

- White Stuff (2022), About Us, Available at: https://www.whitestuff.com/other-stuff/about-us/ (Accessed:16/05/22)

- White Stuff (2022), People In Supply Chains, Available at: https://www.whitestuff.com/otherstuff/people/ (Accessed:16/05/22)