NTU_S2_Research Report_Ethical_Marketing

II

Investigation of Hong Kong Fashion Marketing in Ethical Ways

Nottingham Trent University School of Art & Design Institute of Vocational Education – Hong Kong

ba

ifb

2018 / 2019

Module: FASHION CONCEPT AND INNOVATION PROJECT Module reference: FASH30006

IVE

Module Leader: CHAN, Marco

Module Name Declaration This submission is the result of my own work.

All help and

advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged

and

primary

and

secondary

sources

action should be taken in line with the University’s regulation on assessment contained in its handbook.

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I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the

Should this statement prove to be untrue, I recognise the

conduct of this project.

right and duty of the Board of Examiners to recommend what

Signed ______________________________ (Full Name) WONG Sau Laam

Date 11/03/2019 (Word Count:___3,760____)

This study aims to investigate Hong Kong Fashion Marketing in Ethical Ways. Also, to identify why ethical consideration is crucial to a company. In Hong Kong, it is no doubt that Marketing is one of the most important channel for companies to present message to their consumers and to the public. Moreover, Hong Kong society pays attention to corporate social responsibility(CSR) in recent 10 years.

Understanding that marketing is an important channel for company to promote their message to consumers.

In order to find out the opportunities and possibilities of ethical marketing in Hong Kong, case studies, desktop research and primary research will be conducted and the result will be revealed in this project.

A fail or a success marketing practice always holds the life of a brand, or we said consumers and the public always hold the life of a brand since human is the soul of marketing. To avoid failure, enterprise have to pay a lot of attention to the ways the brands promoting themselves.

The father of modern marketing, Philip Kotler has mentioned that “Marketing is an administrative and social process through which individuals and groups obtain what they need and desire by the generation, offering and exchange of valuable products with their equals� (Postcron, n.d). One the other hand, American Marketing Association said that “Marketing is the activity, set of institutions, and processes for creating, communicating, delivering, and exchanging offerings that have value for customers, clients, partners, and society at large. (AMA, 2013)

In recent years, Hong Kong society pays attention to environmental protection and human welfare which result in more and more fashion brands promote sustainability in a more ethical way. Investigating a better quality of ethical marketing would be a new challenge for Hong Kong fashion brands to promote their brand image positively.

Marketing, especially in Hong Kong, is one of the most significant way for the brands to present message to their consumers and to the public.

Moreover, Hong Kong society pays attention to corporate social responsibility(CSR) in recent 10 years. The development of ethical marketing grows rapidly in order to catch the trend.

However, there are some uncertain factors that ethical marketing is still not completely success in Hong Kong.

For example, the low effectiveness of old garment collecting boxes in retail stores. It is confusing that whether this campaign is really useful for recycling or it is

only

an

excuses

for

overproducion

and

overconsumption.

Apart

from

environmental

protection,

culture

conservation is also one of the important issue that fashion industry has to consider more about how to inherit the characteristic of Hong Kong fashion culture.

This project aims to investigate the Hong Kong Fashion Marketing in Ethical Ways. Also, to identify why ethical consideration is crucial to a company.

One of the objective is to investigate the growing needs of corporate social responsibilities of fashion industry so as to find out the opportunities.

Understanding that marketing is an important channel for company to promote their message to consumers, consumers’ opinions and experiences are considered for further investigation.

Base on the research finding to discover a better ethical marketing practice for the fashion industry.

“Respect to nature, respect to people and respect to animal�(Stella McCartney, 2017) stated by Stella McCartney, a British designer who proudly and boldly designs sustainable luxury fashion. Respect to nature, trying not to destroy the environment and the natural material resources. Respect to people, people who engage in the whole supply chain including the farmers, workers and customers are being treated by respect and dignity. Respect to animal, no leather, fur, skin and feather so as to minimize the hurts to animal. Fashion Ethic is a hot trend and topic for fashion brands to review their business again in order to see whether the company are earning at the same time doing the right things.

Ethical fashion : Producers are not sweatshops, and all workers in the process have reasonable wages, work environment and labor rights.

Sustainable fashion : Environmentally friendly, using sustainable materials. Minimize water consumption during the process, avoid energy waste, and solve pollution problems such as toxic pesticides and chemicals.

Slow fashion : Opposite of fast fashion, not catching up with the popular launch of mass production every season, tending to classic and durable design.

Vegan fashion : Focus on animal rights, and do not use animal ingredients such as leather fur wool.

To enterprise, it is all about doing the right things. Being honest and fair to their customers and make sure that the business is running morally complying with Law. (CBS News, 2007) The 6 significant ethic values that an enterprise ought to have are: To be honest and true, comply with the responsibility that the companies have to response, to be fair, to be respect, keep transparent to consumers, society and employees and Citizenship. (AMA, 2017) Ethical Marketing also refers to a marketing strategy in which companies follow high ethical standards and pass ethics as their own value to consumers . Enterprises to develop ethical marketing strategies and implement ethical marketing can protect

On the surface, marketing is an activity of selling product and promoting brands. Actually, human is the main body. If a brand want to consider how to make the brand development in a more ethical way, the company may ought to think about the combination between

consumers and social interests , meet the requirements of social development, form marketing competitiveness based on moral values , and ultimately achieve sustainable development.

consumers’ needs and the social value before the selling of the products.

How a company are doing ethical business, how a consumers evaluate the brand. In recent years, more and more consumers’ purchasing decision are not only made by the products and services it owns, but also considering the company background, corporate social responsibility (CSR) and public relationship (PR). Consumers are now pay more attention to the motivation of the company behind to see whether the company are really doing the honest “Green Issue”.

The concept of corporate social responsibility is based on the idea that business operations must be consistent with sustainable development . In addition to consider the company’s own financial and operational conditions. Companies also need to consider their impact to the society and natural environment. In the decade of 2000, corporate social responsibility is always link-up with sustainability. Majority of the brands, not only in fashion industry, but also in different area of industries are talking about corporate social responsibility in a more sustainable way.

Corporate social responsibility can be divided into two-types, one is Reactive Corporate Social Responsibility , another is Strategic Corporate Social Responsibility. (HKEX, 2018) Reactive Corporate Social Responsibility has two forms. The first one is being a good citizen , do caring about the changes in social issues that all stakeholders are concerned about. The second one is to reduce the negative impacts that have already occurred or may be generated by business operations.

To fulfill Strategic Corporate Social Responsibility, implement a good citizenship and smoothen the hurts that production made are not enough. Enterprise have to consider some initiatives that can produce significant social and business benefits. Strategic Corporate Social Responsibility includes both internal and external dimensions. Internal and external complement each other with the aim of creating shared values. Strategic corporate social responsibility also includes investing in social factors that promote the competitiveness of enterprises in the competitive environment. Thus, establishing a symbiotic relationship between enterprises and society.

To cite catering industry as an example, in nowadays more and more restaurants advocate green operation by using less electricity and gas; reduce waste by not providing plastic bag and tableware. For fashion industry, there are mainly 3 perspectives: Environment, Labors and Animals. The Corporate Social Responsibility is focusing on environmental protection, human or labors welfare and animal friendly.

Public Relationship (PR) also known as corporate communications , commonly refer to as PR or public relationships which means about famous people, enterprise, governments and various non-profit organizations to improve the public relations with the society and the world. Also, to promote a wider public recognition at the same time establish a positive image and gain public understanding and support.

In professional, public relations department is mainly engaged in organized bodies of information dissemination , the relationship between coordination and image management consulting affairs, planning, implementation and service of management function. This includes the success of the selection organization, reducing the impact of organizational failures, announcing changes, and more. Similar to the face of traditional Chinese personal relationships .

From the past until now, in the marketing system, public relations is still one of the tool which used for building the public trust. A successful public relations can help company gain trust from the society, even from the whole world. Certainly, on the opposite side, an unsuccessful public relations not only loss the trust from the public, but also the brand loyalty from their consumers which result in the degeneration of a brand.

Anneleise Smillie, the executive director of Redress said that the purchasing level and the shopping frequency are very high in Hong Kong. (SCMP, 2018) Redress is a nongovernment organization which based in Hong Kong aims to reduce garment waste in Hong Kong. On the other hand, a survey conducted by Greenpeace in 2015 stated that Hong Kong consumers disposing clothing 11 kilo tons every years. Smillie also cited a survey in 2017 which interviewed 1000 Hong Kong consumers about how long they discard a garment. The survey showed that 40% of the interviewees put the clothing to the landfill by only wearing once only.

The product life cycle of a garment shortens from seasonal to weekly. In the past, a clothing be produced may need a longer time for sourcing, merchandising, buying and quality control with the aim of releasing the best quality product to consumers. However, along with the rapid growing of Fast Fashion and high frequency of consumers doing online shopping, in order to release the product as soon as possible, fashion brands shorten the time limit of the supply chain. Coming up with the problem is more quick the garments be launched; less quality control can be guaranteed. A survey conducted by YouGov revealed the reason why Hong Kong consumers throw away the garment. (YouGov, 2017) One of the biggest reason is the garment damaged (53% out of 1,030 respondents). (Fig. 1) As the upper part has mentioned the time limit of supply chain become shorter and the quality cannot be guaranteed. More and more clothing cannot be wore for a long time. As a result, the clothes are being throwed to bin.

Consumers psychology may think that they can recycle the clothing they do not wear again to the recycling bins. “Once I recycle the clothing to the recycling bin that means I do something good to the planet instead of throw it to rubbish bin.” said by Ms Chow, a consumers who twice a week shopping in H&M. Ms Fig. 3 H&M Garment

Chow also mentioned that when she was rolling Facebook, H&M shows her “H&M garment collecting campaign” to let her know H&M has started to do

Fig. 2 A full garment recycling bin in a Hong

sustainable fashion: collecting the old garment from consumers. (Fig.3) Another

Kong Estate

Collecting Campaign

consumer, Ms Yeung who shopping in H&M monthly said that she has never recycle her clothing to the collection boxes in H&M retail stores. The reason why Ms Yeung does not put her old garment to the collection box is the clothes she bought in H&M are very affordable. “The 10% off coupon does not attract me to do recycling to the shop since the price of the garment is not so expensive.”

Joey Cheng, senior sales assistant who works in H&M for 1 year replied that she has seen 2-3 consumers monthly bringing their old garment to the shop for recycling. Cheng said that she does not agree this campaign can really help improving the waste problem in Hong Kong because of consumers psychology.

Apart from H&M old garment collection boxes in retail stores (Fig.4), Uniqlo

Fig. 4 Old garment

Fig. 5 Old garment

collecting boxes in H&M

collecting boxes in Uniqlo

HK

HK

(Fig.5) and ZARA (Fig.6) in Hong Kong provide clothing collect box also so as to give consumers an extra platform to recycling the garments.

Fig. 6 Old garment collecting boxes in ZARA HK

This crisis was a hot issue in 2012. An Apple Daily photographer was told by a security guard from Dolce & Gabbana flagship store in Tsim Sha Tsui Canton Road that he was not allowed to take photo outside their retail store only if he is Mainland China tourist. Another security guard allegedly threatening to break the camera of the photographer. This action angered Hong Kong people and Hong Kong people complained that Dolce & Gabbana provoked the conflict between Mainland China and Hong Kong. (JingDaily, 2012)

Follows the commotion, a Facebook page was set up which called “10,000 People Photograph D&G Event”. (Fig. 7& Fig. 8)The security guards pointed out that Dolce & Gabbana signboards and window display are protected under property rights. However, Hong Kong Polytechnic University Social Science professor Dr. Denny Ho criticized that this is an action of Hegemonism. Also, Hong Kong Baptist University Lecturer, Shiu Ka Chun commented that D&G took away Hong Kong citizens’ freedom in order to increase the privacy of their valued customers.

Fig. 7 10,000 People Photograph D&G Event

D&G issued a statement stating that "it is absolutely not intended to offend any Hong Kong citizen ", but also pointed out that "all controversial statements reported by Hong Kong media are not from employees of the Company or the Company". The Equal Opportunities

Fig. 8 10,000 People Photograph D&G Event

The world and the trend are keeping changing year by year. However, one of the thing has not been changed.

Respecting people, including the consumers and the employees. Like the definitions stated by AMA which are Fairness and Respect.

Apparently, Dolce & Gabbana has made a bad demonstration of ethical marketing practice. This case also reminds brands that apart from selling the products, the way that a brand promotes themselves is also one of the consideration to consumers.

Commission sent a letter to D&G on the same day, expressing concern that the company's staff were accused of different treatment for Hong Kong customers and mainland Chinese tourists. 10 days after the crisis, Dolce & Gabbana announced a piece of notice for apology.

D&G sincerely apologize to the public; the statement also stated that it is the company's consistent aim to treat Hong Kong citizens and customers from all over the world in a sincere manner and respect the individual rights and local laws of all parties. (SCMP, 2012)

The Mills Fabrica is committed to becoming a catalyst center for “Techstyle� entrepreneurs and partners, The Mills, formerly called Nan Fung Cotton Mills was completed in 2018. Nan Fung Cotton Mills was set up in 1954 in Tsuen Wan which was the largest production of textile factory in Hong Kong. The factory closed in 2008 after the operation stopped. 2014 was the 60th anniversary of Nan Fung groups, Nan Fung Groups decided to revamp the textile factory as a creation area for the culture and art learning. (The Mills, 2019) After four years, after the completion of the activation project in 2018, it will be divided into "The Mills Fabrica", "Centre of Heritage Art & Textile" and "The Mills Shopfloor".

encouraging them to inspire new ideas and to develop breakthrough collaborations. It combines a breeding base, an investment fund and a work space. Facilities include media studios, co-working spaces and shared meeting rooms. By building an innovative ecological environment, The Mills Fabrica will organize a series of incubation programs and provide strategic partners and creative professionals with two flexible office spaces where they can work, study and find opportunities for collaboration.

The Mills Shopfloor provides learning and experiential retail to the visitors. At the Shopfloor, visitors can engage and explore a world of lifestyle, artisan dining, and maker culture.

The Centre for Heritage, Arts and Textile (CHAT) is expected to officially open in spring 2019 which is a part of the heritage conservation project of Nan Fung Textiles. The diversified projects curated

by CHAT include two major types of exhibitions and joint learning programs. Through these projects, we invite visitors to experience the spirit of innovation in the textile industry in Hong Kong; and in the field of textiles, under the atmosphere of contemporary art, design, science, historical significance, community and craftsmanship, unfold a journey of exploration and communication that inspires thinking.

The entire activating conservation project has been done quite well. In addition to retaining old objects and injecting new elements, the entire ecosystem is closely linked to the history of textiles and innovative creative art, introducing commercial elements without conflict. The Centre for Heritage, Arts and Textile will hold a series of textile-related activities, including the “Apron Project� in the Community Learning Programme in Tsuen Wan, and a series of exhibitions to explore textile art and life.

Fig. 9 The Mills Fabrica

As definition has stated that Ethical Marketing refers to a marketing strategy in which companies follow high ethical standards and pass ethics as their own value to consumers . Enterprises to develop ethical marketing strategies and implement ethical marketing can protect consumers and social interests , meet the requirements of social development, form marketing competitiveness based on moral values , and ultimately achieve sustainable development. Obviously, The Mills done quite successful of promoting Ethical Marketing and shown certain brand value to the public.

In this stage, with regard to the primary research method be used for collecting the data with the topic, face-to-face interview and observation would probably be the main primary research method.

First, in order to know how consumers think about fast fashion doing ethical marketing to promote sustainable fashion. Through interviewing the customers who shopping in fast fashion retail store to understand how their shopping preference and the habit of recycling old garment. Moreover, this interview is conducted with the aim of finding the behind reasons why consumers may not consider take parts in ethical fashion.

Second, retail store observation is being process during this stage by visiting the retail store weekly and asking sale assistants in the store for further information.

Last but not least, The Mills field trip is going be done in stage 2 also in order to experience ethical marketing in Hong Kong context.

There were total 5 interviewees for the face-to-face interview in H&M retail store. After conducting the interview, some of the consumers behaviors, shopping preference and the habit of recycling old garment were being discover so as to bring these finding to the next step.

First, according the 5 respondents’ answers, it is founded that all of them recognized H&M has provide old garment collection boxes in the retail stores. However, only 1 of the interviewee, Ms Chow said that she do recycle her old garment to H&M old garment collection boxes. 2 respondents, Ms Sin and Sandy replied that the 10% off coupon do not attract them since the clothing in H&M are in low price already. Another respondents, Ms Yeung also has same opinions and Ms Sin has never recycle any clothing to any recycling bins or organization due to troublesome.

On the other hand, 3 times of H&M retail stores observation have been done on 27th February 2019, 1st March 2019 and 6th March 2019. The observation time is Lunch hours during 12:00pm-3:00pm. The aim of these 3 observation is to observe the effectiveness of the old garment collection boxes provided in H&M. On 27th February 2019, there were 0 consumers recycling garment into the box. On 1st March 2019, there were total 1 ladies recycling 3 pieces of clothing. On 6 th March 2019, there were total 2 consumers put their old garment into the box. Apparently, the frequency of the collection boxes been used was quite low.

Joey Cheng, senior sales assistant who works in H&M for 1 year replied that she has seen 2-3 consumers monthly bringing their old garment to the shop for recycling.

Cheng said that she does not agree this campaign can really help improving the waste problem in Hong Kong because of consumers psychology. As the interviewees have mentioned, the clothing is not valuable for them to recycle.

From the above result, it is revealed that although H&M has promote “Ethical Fashion” to the public, it is still not successful. The quality of the garment cannot be guarantee, consumers also commented that the clothing bought from H&M can only be wore in 2-3 times then the garment will be thrown away.

H&M may “Doing” Ethical Marketing showing that the brands is doing something good to the environment and to the fashion industry. However, it is afraid that this campaign can only be a gimmick which cannot be sustainable.

Last but not least is the field trip of The Mills. The Mills is revamp for the textile factory as a creation area for the culture and art learning. In order to reach the meaning of conservation, the culture and the history of the factory have been kept it well. In regards of sustainable development of fashion industry and a brand, conservation is crucial. Although Nan Fung Cotton Mills has already stop the operation, the culture, the characteristic and the body are still being saved because of the well conservation.

After visiting The Mills, it was a place where Hong Kong unique fashion culture, the past operation of the system are still being protected by the owners. In the perspective of ethical marketing, it is no doubt The Mills are presenting a positive practice, a good demonstration to the society.

After studying the above definition explanation, case studies and primary researches, it is discovered that the opportunities and the possibilities of Ethical Marketing are huge and have a large improvement area for growing.

Regard the cases of old garment collection boxes provided by the retail stores, the problems of overproduction and overconsumption are still cannot be solved. As a result, the campaign makes the public confused whether this promotion is just a gimmick which cannot be sustainable in long run.

Dolce & Gabbana crisis in Canton road was one of the fail marketing practice since the brand did not respect to human which result in negative brand image during the commotion. According to the definition AMA, the 6 significant ethic values that an enterprise ought to have are: To be honest and true, comply with the responsibility that the companies have to response, to be fair, to be respect, keep transparent to consumers, society and employees and Citizenship. Obviously, be fair and respect to consumers and public are two of the important issues that brand has to consider during marketing decision.

One of the successful ethical marketing practice would be The Mills. In recent years, with the higher education level of the society, conservation apparently become more and more popular that government and enterprise take it serious. Therefore, a successful ethical marketing is to demonstrate a positive image to the public and inherit the culture.

To sum up, it is expected a successful ethical marketing practice can bring certain advantages to companies and consumers. For enterprise, the brand can build up positive brand image instead of only thinking how to make profit. As for consumers, they could have a brand-new experience on both shopping and purchasing instead of repeating the buy and throw cycle.

Last but not least, it is hoped that ethical marketing could be success in Hong Kong fashion marketing. With the implementation of ethical marketing, it is expected the brands can have a more sustainable development so as to provide a better business environment.

Question: Interviewee name Gender Age Occupation Monthly Income 1. How often do you shopping in H&M? 1. Never 2.Weekly 3. Monthly 4. Seasonal 5. Yearly 2. Do you know H&M Garment Collecting Campaign?

3. Have you ever recycling old garment? If no, why?

4. From above question, if yes, where did you recycle the clothing?

5. Why? If respondents do not answer recycling clothing to old garment collection boxes in retail store, ask them the reason why they do not use it.

If respondents answer they use old garment collection boxes in retail store , ask reason.

Interviewee 1: Ms Chow Female Age: 23 University Student Monthly Income: Below HKD $10,000 1. How often do you shopping in H&M? 2.Weekly 2. Do you know H&M Garment Collecting Campaign?

-Yes 3. Have you ever recycling old garment? If no, why?

-Yes 4. From above question, if yes, where did you recycle the clothing?

-Garment Recycling Bin provided by Estate, H&M old garment collection boxes 5. Why? Convenient Other opinion: Once I recycle the clothing to the recycling bin that means I do something good to the planet instead of throwing it to rubbish bin. Ms Chow also mentioned that when she was rolling Facebook, H&M shows her “H&M garment collecting campaign� to let her know H&M has started to do sustainable fashion: collecting the old garment from consumers. H&M old garment collection boxes collect any brands of clothes. Very convenient to Ms Chow. Ms Chow is a Fashion lover who shopping weekly especially shopping in fast fashion retail store.

Interviewee 2: Ms Lee Female Age: 32 Clerk Monthly Income: HKD $15,000-20,000 1. How often do you shopping in H&M? 4. Seasonal 2. Do you know H&M Garment Collecting Campaign?

-Yes 3. Have you ever recycling old garment? If no, why?

-No. Once the clothing is old Ms Lee just throw it away 4. From above question, if yes, where did you recycle the clothing?

-N/A 5. Why? -N/A Other opinion: Ms Lee commented that she does not really pay attention to the hot issue in the society about environment caring. She also said that she does not spent a lot on fashion items. In the last of the interview, Ms Lee stated that she does not have any idea about why consumers have to think about ethic.

Interviewee 3: Ms Sin Female Age: 19 High-Diploma Student Monthly Income: Below HKD $10,000 1. How often do you shopping in H&M? 2. Weekly 2. Do you know H&M Garment Collecting Campaign?

-Yes 3. Have you ever recycling old garment? If no, why?

-Yes 4. From above question, if yes, where did you recycle the clothing?

- Donate to charity near the estate she live 5. Why? -Although I buy a lot, I hope to do something reduce her guilty Other opinion: Ms Sin is a student who love shopping in H&M and Zara, H&M would be more because of the price. She commented that H&M clothing is more affordable for student but after she wears 3-4 time, the garment has already been damaged. For those garments which is not yet damaged, may be only wear once only, she will donate to charity.

Why not recycling to the old garment collection boxes provided in H&M? -10% off coupon sounds attractive but not to me because the clothing in H&M is cheap already.

Interviewee 4: Ms Yeung Female Age: 28 Sales Assistant Monthly Income: HKD $10,001-15,000 1. How often do you shopping in H&M? 2. Weekly 2. Do you know H&M Garment Collecting Campaign?

-Yes 3. Have you ever recycling old garment? If no, why?

-No, troublesome.

4. From above question, if yes, where did you recycle the clothing?

N/A 5. Why? N/A Other opinion: Same as Ms Sin, Ms Yeung has never recycle her clothing to the collection boxes in H&M retail stores. Even never recycle her garment to any bins or organization. The reason why Ms Yeung does not put her old garment to the collection box is the clothes she bought in H&M are very affordable. “The 10% off coupon does not attract me to do recycling to the shop since the price of the garment is not so expensive.�

Interviewee 5: Ms Sandy Female Age: 25 Clerk Monthly Income: HKD $15,000-20,000 1. How often do you shopping in H&M? 3. Monthly 2. Do you know H&M Garment Collecting Campaign?

-Yes 3. Have you ever recycling old garment? If no, why?

-Yes 4. From above question, if yes, where did you recycle the clothing?

Garment Recycling Bin provided by Estate 5. Why? Nearby Other opinion: Not really care about what is environmental protection and sustainable fashion. The reason why Sandy shopping in H&M is because of the weekly change of the products.

Why not recycling to the old garment collection boxes provided in H&M? -10% off coupon sounds attractive but not to me because the clothing in H&M is cheap already.

Fig 1. YouGov, (2017). Available at: https://bit.ly/2XPBPHN [Accessed 1 Mar. 2019].

Fig 2. Author owned, (2019) Fig 3. H&M, (2017). Available at: https://bit.ly/2Cdtm7X [Accessed 2 Mar. 2019].

Fig 4. H&M, (2017). Available at: https://bit.ly/2HqLGxO [Accessed 1 Mar. 2019].

Fig 5. Uniqlo, (2018). Available at: https://bit.ly/2u3QCAJ [Accessed 3 Mar. 2019].

Fig 6. ZARA, (2018). Available at: https://bit.ly/2TrBHje [Accessed 2 Mar. 2019].

Fig 7. D&G Crisis, (2012). Available at: https://bit.ly/2HcyJIW [Accessed 2 Mar. 2019].

Fig 8. D&G Crisis, (2012). Available at: https://read.bi/2HdmviU [Accessed 28 Feb. 2019].

Fig 9. The Mills Fabrica, (2018). Available at: https://bit.ly/2Tvin4C [Accessed 28 Feb. 2019].

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