KT020-014 Listing.qxp_Layout 1 24/10/2017 15:46 Page 67
355 A Comme des Garçons embroidered polyester organdie dress, ‘Adult Punk’ collection, Autumn-Winter, 1997-98, ribbon labelled and size M, the cream organdie bonded to front and back with irregular wool mesh panels embroidered with leaves in metallic threads; with purple tulle over-dress (2)
359 A Comme des Garçons shirred wool jersey dress, ‘Refresh the Spirits’ collection, Spring-Summer 1990, labelled and size M, with criss-cross back-straps, shirred panels in differing directions, similar to that of 1950s swimsuit This piece was photographed by Steven Meisel for the Comme catalogue and advertising campaign, modelled by Naomi Campbell. £400 - 600
This was look 3 on the catwalk. US Vogue was so impressed with this collection that they commissioned Annie Leibovitz to photograph the key pieces (including this one) for a double-page spread for their September 1997 edition. Vogue describes the clothes as looking as though they had come from ‘Miss Havisham’s couture atelier’ and that ‘Kawakubo’s take on pattern-making [was] a send up of the way clothes are made.’ The Leibovitz photograph is also reproduced in ‘Future Beauty’ pp94-95. £400 - 600
360 An early Comme des Garçons knitted black cotton sweater, Autumn-Winter, 1982, ribbon labelled, with boat neckline, the back formed from criss-cross panels with open sides, low-set sleeves; together with an early 80s black cotton skirt, labelled, adorned and inset with pairs of eyelets (2) £700 - 1000
356 An early Comme des Garçons dress, SpringSummer, 1983, ribbon label, of brick-red viscose, the front panel twisted and crisscrossed with openings at the front waist £700 - 900 357 A rare and early Comme des Garçons black cotton-jersey jacket, circa 1983, Tricot labelled, with intentional cutwork slashes forming cross-shaped patterns to the hem, simple machine-locked edges, chest approx 112cm, 44in (2) £1000 - 1500
358
358 A Comme des Garçons ‘Ballerina Motorbike’ collection ensemble, Spring-Summer, 2005, labelled and sizes S & M, the foam padded calico jacket with patchwork of curved interlocking shapes to the waist sides and back; worn over a skirt of bright pink mesh inset with undulating plastic crinoline banding, large bow to the front; and an underskirt of raw-edged cream calico (3)
The jacket is illustrated in ‘Breaking the Mode’, Contemporary Fashion from the Permanent Collection of the Los Angeles Museum, pp 60-61. In this collection Kawakubo contrasted the the soft layers of a ballerina’s tutu, with the rounded contours of a motorbike, the openwork detailing mimicking the engine vents and the padding - the curved foamrubber seat covers. Kawakubo described her inspiration: ‘I thought about the power of the motorbike the machine itself - and the strength of a ballet dancer’s arms’. £800 - 1200 360 357
67