193 a rare alexander McQueen moulded leather showpiece prototype, Eshu collection, autumn-Winter 2000-2001, of interwoven wine red leather, with fringed central seams, neck and hem edges,no side seams, zip fastened to centre-back, with sculpted breasts, hips and abdomen, lined in white calico, bust 94cm, 37in, waist 66cm, 26in; together with a coloured xerox of the original McQueen sketch with sample of leather attached, a press picture of a similar bodice in the catwalk show; the original embossed card Eshu show invitation; and a printed contributors list for the spring/summer 2000 show which includes Delia Eccles’ name who was commissioned to make this piece (4)
The design sketch, i was given at the studio to work from. it isn’t signed, but presumably was done either by Lee, sarah heard or sebastian Ponns under Lee’s direction. i should also mention that as a first ‘toile’, while the exterior of the piece looks exquisite, hidden inside, the leather is backed with cream calico fabric, that acts as a support for the woven leather (which is quite thin by itself, and not really suitable for moulding). The construction of the final piece was not much different, though this didn’t bother Lee, whose main concern was to make his idea work, mould the unmouldable and have a stunning showpiece’. £2000 - 3000
194 (detail) 194 an alexander McQueen sequined ‘isabella Blow’ cocktail dress, spring-summer, 2008, woven grey satin label, of black crêpe de chine entirely covered in black sequins with gold beaded portrait of isabella Blow to the front panel, bust 86cm, 34in
Delia Eccles was commissioned to make this bodice just before she began her Ma in moulded leather at Central st Martins. she writes ‘it’s also unusual in that the original design hasn’t seen the light of day (as far as i know), but does give an idea into Lee’s design development process. once he saw how well the bodice worked, he wanted an ankle length version instead which also had only two seams. The final cream piece then morphed into the showpiece which was used for Eshu (which most people are familiar with from the press it received).
Cathy horyn in the new York Times’s review, october 8th, 2007, ‘on friday night, in a collection that was a tribute to the late stylist isabella Blow, Mr. McQueen seemed to almost dare anyone to match him for knowhow and imagination...To be sure, Mr. McQueen revisited some themes that were part of his stylish and complicated collaboration with Ms. Blow, who died in May... in the front of a chic black sequined dress, its image traced in gold beads that were partly concealed by the sequins, was a portrait of Ms. Blow by the photographer steven Meisel. You could see it only from an angle’ £700 - 1000 194 61