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Passion for Fashion 25th June 2012


Kerry Taylor

Kate osborn

Lucy Bishop

Contact

Payments

Kerry Taylor assistants: Kate osborn and Lucy Bishop Tel: 00 44 (0)208 676 4600 fax: 00 44 (0)203 137 0112 Email: info@kerrytaylorauctions.com

Purchasers will be charged a premium rate of 20% on the hammer price. The premium is subject to VaT at the prevailing rate. see page 64-65 for details.

sale number: KT019

There is an additional 3% charge for purchases made by online bidding.

for multiple images of every lot please see www.kerrytaylorauctions.com for the current sale, and click on the individual lots

online Bidding www.invaluable.com/kerrytaylorauctions

storage, Collection and shipping Logistics front cover: lot 195 frontispiece: lot 31

see page 69 for details and a map. This auction is conducted by Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd in accordance with our Conditions of Business printed in this catalogue.

Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd incorporated in England

registered no oC7173571

VaT no 835506036


Passion for fashion auction Tuesday 25th June 2013 at 2pm

Venue 249-253 Long Lane London sE1 4Pr see map on page 69

Exhibition sunday 23rd June - 12noon to 5pm Monday 24th June - 9am to 5.30pm Tuesday 25th June - 9am to 11am


aCCEssoriEs Please note all lots bearing ∆ symbol will need a CiTEs licence to export outside of the EU, which we are happy to assist with. see page 65 for more information.

1∆ an hermès brown crocodile handbag, late 1960s, crocodylus porosus, stamped in gold to the interior hermès, Paris, with circular gilt ring clasp, shoulder strap, lined in tan leather, 26cm, 10 1/4in long £700 - 1000

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2 an hermès tan calf leather Birkin, 1996, stamped and engraved with maker’s name, blind stamp a, with gilt hardware, padlock and two keys, 35cm, 13 1/2in long £1500 - 2000

3 a Loewe green lizard bag, late 1960s, maker’s name stamped to the interior, with large silvered metal mounts to the adjustable shoulder strap, lifter clasp, 19cm, 7 1/2in long

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Please note that this lot cannot be exported outside the EU. £300 - 500

4 an hermès vert foncé togo leather Birkin bag, 1998, blind stamp B, with gold plated hardware, keyfob and padlock, 35cm, 13 3/4in £5000 - 8000

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5 an hermès wine pigskin Kelly bag, 1985, blind stamp o, with gilt hardware, fob, 40cm, 15 3/4in long £1500 - 2000

6 an hermès black pigskin Kelly bag, 1992, blind stamp V, and marked in gold to the interior ‘hermès Paris, Made in france’ and signed to the gilt closure tabs, with broad webbing shoulder strap, 41cm, 16in long £700 - 1000

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7 an hermès black ostrich Kelly bag, circa 1970, stamped to the interior ‘hermès Paris, Made in france’ and signed to the gilt closure tabs, with key fob, leather covered padlock and detachable shoulder strap, 36cm, 14in long £2000 - 3000

8∆ an hermès white whaleskin Kelly bag, late 1960s, delphinapterus leucas, signed to the gilt closure tabs, with key fob and padlock,36cm, 14in long £400 - 600

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9∆ an hermès caramel lizard Kelly bag, 1996, blind stamp Z, varanus niloticus, with gilt hardware, optional shoulder strap, matching padlock and fob, 33cm, 13in long £4000 - 6000

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10 an hermès black togo leather Birkin bag, 1996, blind stamp Z, with gold plated hardware, keyfob and padlock, 40cm, 15 3/4in £5000 - 9000

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11 an hermès bleu jean clemence leather Birkin bag, 2000, blind stamp D, with silver palladium hardware, keyfob and padlock, 40cm, 16in £5000 - 7000

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12 an hermès gris tourterelle clemence leather haut à courroies overnight bag, 2000, blind stamp D, with silver palladium hardware, keyfob and padlock, 50cm, 19 1/2in £6000 - 9000

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13 ∆ a fine hermès orange crocodile Kelly bag, 1995, crocodylus porosus, blind stamp Y, with gilt hardware, matching leather covered padlock, fob with keys, and alternative gilt padlock with keys, 29cm, 11 1/2in long £10000 - 15000

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14 ∆ an hermès brown crocodile Kelly bag, 1974, crocodylus porosus, blind stamp D, with gilt hardware, fob and leather covered padlock, shoulder strap, 29cm, 11 1/2in long £5000 - 8000

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15 an hermès brown leather Birkin bag, 1999, blind stamp C, with gold plated hardware, keyfob and padlock, 35cm, 13 3/4in £4000 - 5000

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16 an hermès black box calf leather Birkin, 1999, blind stamp C, with silver palladium hardware, padlock and keyfob, 35cm, 13 3/4in £4000 - 6000

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17 a fine printed leather reticule, french, early 19th century, with finely detailed engraved print to one side of a rotund, unfashionable gentleman being scolded by his wife ‘a la maison’ to one side and with a comely young wench to the other ‘au cabaret’, with cord draw-string, 14cm, 5 1/2in high £600 - 800 17

17 (detail)

18 an embroidered satin undress cap, probably french, early 18th century, embroidered in pastel silks and gilt threads with baskets of blooms, scrolling carnations, with gold bobbin lace edging to the up-turned flap, topped with a gilt tassel, 16cm, 6in high £800 - 1200

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19 a pair of yellow brocaded satin shoes, 1730s, woven with lace patterns accented in pink and green, with green ribbon bindings, up-turned curved toes, 22cm, 8 1/2in long (2) £1500 - 2000

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20 (label)

20 a fine and rare pair of Diana slip fetish boots, french, circa 1920, with gold embossed leather maker’s label to the interior, ‘ 9 rue richepanse, ParisMadeleine’, fine red leather piping to the scalloped tops, heel tip and outlining the toe section on the upper, steep heel, brass eyelet loops with laces to fasten from sole to thigh, 23cm, 9in long approx UK size 4-5 (2)

see ‘schuhe’ saskia Durian-ress pp 281-283 for calf to knee length fetish boots. The height of the Diana slip boots and the heel-toe proximity means that walking in them would have been almost impossible. They are an extremely fine example of this oeuvre. £1000 - 1500 21 Two pairs of women’s glam-rock style platform boots, 1970s, in red, silver and blue glitter fabric with zip fasteners; and silver glitter with red stars with front laces, size 6 UK (4) £400 - 600 22 Two pairs of Mondaine/Mondial ‘Mirages’ heel-less shoes, 1959, comprising: black suede pair, also with Dolcis studio labels, size 4; and gold leather with glass beaded rosettes, size 6 (4) £300 - 500 20 10


23 Two pairs of black patent leather fetish shoes, probably 1930s, comprising: pair with vertiginous 20cm heels, possibly for wear by a man, with piped white leather rands, faint imprint on soles ‘Made in Belgium’, UK size approx 8-9; the other with punched leather trim to upper edges, white leather inlay to heel tip, approx UK size 5-6 (4) £500 - 800 24 a pair of leather postillion boots, probably french, first half 18th century, of heavy, dark-brown leather, the rigid legs banded with iron, the upper edged padded with horse-hair, with domed, rounded toe, multi-layered leather sole and heel, the shaped spurleathers chased with fleurs de lys, 59cm, 27in high (2) £2000 - 3000 25 a collection of gloves, originally belonging to the Duchess of Windsor, french, 1950s-60s, seven pairs, mainly of soft kid leather or suede from above wrist length - elbow length in shades of grey, beige and brown and a pair of long green crêpe silk evening gloves (14)

23 26 a pair of Courrèges white plastic sunglasses, 1964, signed along the arms, the solid lenses with horizontal slits, 15cm, 6in long £300 - 500

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Provenance: ex lot 2162, sotheby’s new York, Duke and Duchess of Windsor auction, february 1998. £450 - 600

27 a Pierre Cardin enamelled metal pendant, late 1960s, signed to the reverse, in shades of blue with rhinestone studded central medallion, on gilt rope-twist choker chain, 9cm, 3 1/2in long, in original case (2) £400 - 600

28 a fine Chanel filigree necklace, probably Goosens, 1960s, signed ‘Chanel’ to the clasp, the gilt metal plaques inset with carnelian coloured stones, interspersed with pearls, brilliants cabochon green stones, and with large droplet pearl pendant, 49cm, 19in diam £600 - 1000

25a a Pierre Cardin enamelled pendant, late 1960s, signed on the reverse, of gilt metal with midnight blue centre, with three central rotating ellipses studded with rhinestones and enamelled green to the reverse, on gilt chain, the pendant 8cm, 4in high £400 - 600 28

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fashion 1600s-2000s 29 a rare green and yellow knitted silk woman’s jacket, probably italian, mid 17th century, the front and back panels with gold thread and yellow silk scrolling foliage and blossom, with textured chequered borders £1200 - 1800 30 a quilted ivory satin petticoat, second half 18th century, with large-scale design of undulating fern fronds and sprouting blooms, lined in ivory wool, with drawstring band forming the waist, 85cm, 33 1/2in £450 - 600

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31 an embroidered ivory satin waistcoat worked with horse-race scenes, circa 1790, of short, boxy shape embroidered in fine chain stitch with dog-roses, cornflowers, with horses jumping hurdles below each pocket, with inked inscription to the rear linen backing ‘Ea to WLa’, and also ‘from sJK to the Lord russell, March 30th, 1819’ £600 - 1000

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31 (detail)


32 a gentleman’s embroidered satin waistcoat, circa 1770-80, worked to the borders with mauve and pale blue cornflowers, sprigged, embroidered ground £300 - 500

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33 a striped homespun wool ‘revolutionary’ skirt, french, late 18th century, of kelim style weave in broad bands of red, white, blue and black, with remains of pink silk binding to the waistband £800 - 1200

34 an ivory silk faille bridal gown, circa 1871, the bodice and waistband of skirt applied with ‘Grand Magasins de la Paix’ stamped labels, the bodice with bell-shaped sleeves, jacket-like bodice with curved basque, adorned with Brussels lace and ivory cord passementerie; the apron-type overskirt similarly adorned, over plain faille trained skirt with integral ruched gathers to the rear in the area to take a bustle, bust 76cm, 30in, waist 51cm, 20in (3) £450 - 600

35 a rare Emile Pingat brown velvet ‘visite’ capelet, circa 1890, woven beige label ‘30 rue Louis le Grand, 30 Paris’, edged with golden silk cord and cotton bobbin lace, the pelerine-like front panels and hem edged in fringes of golden seed-beads, lined in brown satin, fastened by hooks and eyes £400 - 600

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36 (label)

36 a rare Ernest raudnitz chiné 18th century inspired taffeta ball gown, circa 1893, stamped in gold to the waist-stay ‘Ernest raudnitz, 23 rue Louis le Grand, Paris’, the separate bodice with wide square neckline, ruffled, pleated sleeves, pink chiffon edging and frills, and plastron, adorned with absinthegreen silk ribbons and a silk rosebud, the interior with baleen boning, ivory taffeta lining; the matching skirt with pink chiffon insertion to centre front edged with ruffles of taffeta and posy of silk flowers and ribbons, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) £1200 - 1500 14

36 37 a redfern primrose yellow melton wool coat, circa 1890, the black silk lining bearing the remains of a printed gold ‘redfern 242 rue de rivoli’ label, with integral capelet, couched gold thread embroidered black faille collar, edged in black ostrich plumes, fastened to the front by hooks and eyes, chest 81cm, 32in £600 - 800

37 (label)


37

Lots 38 to 40: These clothes came from the Pennant family of nantlys hall, Tremeirchion, Denbighshire. They belonged to frances Bankes, from soughton, near Mold.who married Philip Pennant Pearson of nantlys in the 1862. There are additional family archive photos on the website.

38 38 a rare redfern navy embossedvelvet and satin directoire style gown, circa 1911, narrow label to the waist ‘26 Conduit street, no 64502,’ the bodice with lace chemisette and gathered tulle cross-over panels, wide lapels trimmed with cut steel buttons, satin belt with matching large buckle, floating satin panels descend from the rear bodice and trained skirt, bust approx 102cm, 40in, waist 82cm, 30in £600 - 800

39 a redfern sage green velvet walking suit, circa 1911, unlabelled, the jacket and skirt adorned with green frogging and lined in green silk; together with a redfern petrol-blue faille jacket with striped green taffeta collar, black and gold label with Bond st and Conduit st addresses, with frogging to the rear skirt; and an un-labelled green satin skirt, chests 97cm, 38in, waists approx 92cm, 36in (4) £300 - 500 15


40 a rare redfern ivory silk driving/duster coat, circa 1910, large woven label with 26 Conduit street and 27 new Bond street addresses, no 40135, the decorative tabs adorned with large buttons, silk loops to fasten; together with a redfern dark bottle green wool coat, c.1911-14, with black and gold label, with 26 Conduit street address, no 75225, with square sailor collar, broad belt, lined in satin, chests 9297cm, 36-38in (2) £400 - 600

41 an ivory tapelace and black chiffon evening gown, circa 1905, the boned bodice trimmed with black satin rosettes to the shoulders and swags of sequined tulle edged in beaded pom-poms, deep pointed V to ivory satin waist, ruffles of lace to the sleeves, the separate skirt similarly trimmed and adorned, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 64cm, 25in (2) £300 - 500

42 a tea gown, circa 1890, formed from an 1830s Paisley design shawl, the ivory wool ground woven with large foliate botehs in predominantly red and blue, boned bodice, fastening by hooks to centre-front, bust 76cm, 30in £400 - 600

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43 a rare omega Workshop blouse, circa 1914, of white linen, the borders with faggotted seams, edged in Vanessa Bell designed 1913 ‘Maud’ modernist printed linen in shades of blue and pink, of simple T-shaped construction, bust approx 86cm, 34in

for a larger panel of this printed linen see the Victoria & albert Museum collection: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item /o105854/maud-furnishingfabric-bell-vanessa/ Exhibited: anthony d’offay Gallery, ‘ The omega Workshops alliance and Enmity in English art 1911-1920’, 1984 no 132.

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43 (detail)

The hayward Gallery ‘addressing the Century - 100 Years of art & fashion’ 1998, which transferred to the Kunstmuseum, Wolfsburg in 1999. £2000 - 3000


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47 45 a black beaded tulle opera coat, mid 1920s, with overall seed and bugle bead cascade designs with scrolls to shoulders and hem, fastened by two glass buttons, £250 - 350

44 (label) 44 a fine reville & rossiter deep magenta-pink satin opera coat, 1912, with dated embroidered satin label, the draped wrap-over front panels with piped seams, button to one hip, embroidered overall with large pearlised roses and foliage £600 - 1000

47 a beaded muslin opera coat, mid 1920s, the ivory ground covered in pink, silver and gold bugle beaded floral swags, with draped back cinching into low waist, batwing sleeves, scarf ties to the neck £600 - 1000

46 Two beaded dresses, late 1920s, one of black satin with large red and black beaded peonies and steel grey beaded fringes and floating panels falling from the shoulders, the other of royal blue chiffon with long fringes in shades of blue and ivory, both busts 92cm, 36in (2) £350 - 500

47 (detail) 17


48 48 a Mariano fortuny copper silk Delphos gown, circa 1920-30, stamped fortuny to muslin tape on inside shoulder, with striped yellow Murano beads to the shoulders, armholes and sides £1500 - 2000

49 49 a fine embroidered and beaded chinoiserie jacket, attributed to Margaine Lacroix, circa 1925, of gold lamé adorned with pagodas and figures carrying parasols in mainly pink, blue and yellow beads and sequins with finely chain-stitched silk details, chest 102cm, 42in

for similar coats by Margaine Lacroix with Egyptian and chinoiserie motifs see the Musée Palais Galiera catalogue ‘Les annes folles 1919-1929’. £3000 - 5000

48 (label) 18

49 (detail)


51 a fine Mariano fortuny black silk Delphos, circa 1920-30, printed in scarlet along the selvedge seam ‘Made in italy, fabrique en italie, fortuny Depose’, the long sleeves and neckline edged in striped Murano glass beads; the matching satin belt stencilled with silver leaves, also with fortuny signature (2) £6000 - 8000

50 50 a Mariano fortuny stencilled black velvet evening gown, circa 192030, with circular label to beige satin lining, the front and back stencilled in gold with interlocking geometric strapwork repeats with islamic calligraphy borders, the sleeves and sides inset with pleated black silk adorned with Murano glass beads, bust approx 92-97cm, 36-38in £2000 - 3000

50 (label)

50 (detail)

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51 (label) 19


52 a schiaparelli black satin-backed textured crêpe evening gown, early 1930s, bearing remains of early label ‘4 rue de la paix Paris’, with high halter-neck, low back with buttons below, the skirt falling in a pointed train to the back, bust approx 86cm, 34in

Provenance: the vendor tells us that the dress originally belonged to Madame agnes, the hat designer. schiaparelli opened her first fashion house at 4 rue de la Paix in 1928 which was part workroom, part apartment. The sign outside bore the legend ‘schiaparelli pour sport’. she moved to 21 Place Vendôme in 1935. although famed for her avant-garde creations, schiaparelli was a good business woman and always ensured that sophisticated black evening gowns were included in every collection which appealed to a wider clientele. These were often sold with matching highly embellished evening jackets. although many of the jackets survive - the dresses are more rare. £1500 - 2500

52 (label)

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53 a rare schiaparelli blue-grey linen dress, autumn-Winter, 1937, made to be worn with the Jean Cocteau ‘head and tresses’ jacket, unlabelled, with simple square yoke, low back, slightly raised waistline, belt with brass buckle, gored flares to calf-length skirt, large pink plastic zip fastener, bust 86cm, 34in

for an identical dress see Millon Cornette de saint Cyr ‘schiaparelli’ catalogue, 3rd July, 2009, lot 248 £3000 - 5000

53 (detail)

52 (detail)

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52 (back) 21


54 a Jeanne Lanvin couture black satin bias-cut evening gown, spring-summer 1938, large woven label, pencil numbered to the reverse 26412, with curved bolero shaped seams to the front bodice, long sleeves with beaded, sequined and embroidered blue organza cuffs, bust 97cm, 38in, waist 86cm, 34in £400 - 600

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57

55 Two schiaparelli blouses, both bearing 21 Place Vendôme Paris printed labels, one of horizontally striped purple seersucker with blue enamelled button, probably 1930s; the other of acid-green slubbed silk c.1950, busts approx 97cm, 38in (2) £250 - 300

57 a Chanel couture black lace evening gown, mid 1930s, labelled and stamped 28068, bias-cut with flounces to the shoulders, cross-over to the back bodice, zig zag seam to front waist, the hem with bands of lace which form ruffles at the sides, organza piping, belt to waist, bust 97cm, 38in £2000 - 3000

54 (detail) 56 a Daphne black satin couture evening gown, late 1930s, labelled ‘37 south Molton street, W1’, the side panels tying in a bow at the back, criss-cross straps, bust approx 86cm, 34in £300 - 500 54 (label) 22

57 (label)


58 a Madeleine Vionnet black velvet bias-cut gown, circa 1935, printed label, pencil numbered to the reverse 59423, with simple Vshaped seams above the centre-front raised waistline, X shaped seams and darts to the centre-back waist and curving side seams that follow the shape of the hips, balloon sleeves with single underarm seams with elasticated cuffs, bust 92cm, 36in ÂŁ3000 - 5000

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58 (detail)

58 (back)

58 (label) 23


61 a Lucien Lelong black silk crêpe evening gown and jacket, circa 1936, brown on ivory woven satin label, the halter-neck dress with plunging V-neck framed by wide angular lapels, twists of fabric to rear low waist threaded through by two back straps, the matching jacket with black cut glass floret buttons, bust approx 86cm, 34in (2) £600 - 700

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59 a Madame Grès ivory and dovegrey draped jersey evening gown, 1940s, un-labelled, fastened centre-front by hooks and eyes, with ivory front, reversing to grey at the back with deep V back, pointed, trained side panels, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 56cm, 22in £600 - 1000

60 a Jeanne Lanvin couture silver satin-faced crêpe evening ensemble, Winter 1937-38, large date-stamped woven label, pencil numbered 43207, comprising; bias cut evening gown with tie belt, deep V to neckline front and back, the hem adorned with silver leather strapwork foliage and gilt cabochon disc beaded grapes, with matching bolero jacket, bust approx 96cm, 38in, waist 76cm, 30in (3)

62 an unusual Jean Patou couture printed crêpe de chine day dress, late 1930s, pink on white woven label and numbered 49 805, the tomato-red silk ground printed in white with figures based on Walt Disney’s 1933 cartoon of the ‘Three Little Pigs’ with fagotted seams, ruched and gathered puff sleeves, floral bakelite buttons, ties to rear waist, bust approx 9297cm, 36-38in £400 - 600

63 a Maison Worth couture printed wine chiffon garden party gown, early 1930s, narrow oyster satin label, numbered to the reverse 83791, the skirt falling in tiered handkerchief pleats, with matching capelet, bust approx 86cm, 34in £400 - 600

There is a contemporary press photograph of this ensemble taken by D’ora £700 - 1000

60 (label)

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64 64 a Jacques fath couture black satin dinner gown, late 1940s-early 1950s, large woven satin label, with small pointed collar cut in one with the shoulders, pointed cuffs to the sleeves, curved, padded panel to the front with pronounced side drape, the back with curving, diagonal zip closure, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in £600 - 700

65 nine Christian Dior for Lucien Lelong original fashion sketches, the majority dated 1944-45, four initialled ‘C.D’, pen and ink on cream Lelong headed paper, with designs for daywear, ball gowns, hat with veil, 28 by 22cm; together with three Patou sketches also worked during the German occupation of Paris, ‘Vagabonde’, ‘Trott’ and ‘Bonne fortune’ (12) £1000 - 1500 65a a Lucile studio sketch for the sears roebuck 1917 mail-order catalogue 'Daddy's sweetheart' dated 1916, and two designs for blouses, 37 by 19 1/2cm (3) £400 - 600 65B four Lucile studio sketches, circa 1915-6, un-signed, featuring layered barrel-shaped skirts for day and evening, 36 by 19cm (4) £400 - 600

64 (label)

65C five Lucile studio sketches for lavish evening-wear, early 1920s, un-signed, 35 by 15cm (5) £800 - 1000

67 66 Willy Maywald photograph of the exterior of Maison Christian Dior, January, 1947, with Christian Berard forming part of the throng outside the house on the day of the inaugural show, 23 by 18cm, 9 by 7in £400 - 600 67 a rare Lucien Lelong black crêpe dinner dress, circa 1945, labelled, with draped swags to bodice front, zip fastened, corded tie belt, deep velvet band to hem, ribbon honour to neck, bust 92cm, 36in £500 - 700

67 (label) 25


68 an henry a la Pensée novelty sweater, late 1940s-early 50s, labelled, the front embroidered and appliquéd with smoking cigarettes and lighter, bust 8186cm, 32-34in £200 - 300

73 a Carven summer suit, circa 1945, woven blue on ivory satin label ‘Carven Paris, 4 & 5 rond Point des Champs Elysees, Paris’, printed in blue and white with hunt scenes, the double breasted jacket with velvet top-stitched buttons and collar, exaggerated shoulders, faux peplum with fringed waist tie, lined in ivory satin, the skirt with broad pleats (2) £450 - 600

69 a Madame Grès black jersey dinner gown, circa 1945, unlabelled, centre-front hook and eye fastening with draped and pleated panels to shoulders and bust, ruched gathers to the sleeves, curved hip seams from which the finely pleated skirt falls, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in £350 - 500

70 a Madame Grès ivory silk evening gown, late 1940s, un-labelled, hook and eye fastened to centre front, with complex gathers outlining the bust, hem falls in points at the sides, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in £400 - 600

71 a Madame Grès couture black draped jersey cocktail dress, circa 1945, labelled, the front of the bodice with complex bands of pleating which radiate from the shoulders and merge at the centre-front hook and eye closure, the back of the bodice with deep draped cowl, padded shoulders, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in £500 - 600

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74 a Jeanne Lanvin black satinbacked crêpe dinner dress, circa 1940, large woven but undated label, zip fastened to one side, crossover panel to front bodice adorned with large jet-like beads and black sequined stars, horizontally tucked waistline, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 66cm, 26in £500 - 600

72 72 a Madame Grès couture asymmetric draped black and scarlet hellenic-style evening gown, circa 1947, labelled, with diagonal pleats to the front bodice, a godet of bright scarlet jersey cascading from a point at the front side waist, narrow scarlet jersey waist-strap, lightly boned bodice, the skirt formed from layer of black jersey over a black crêpe underskirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in £2000 - 3000

75 a Marcelle alix couture navy crêpe dinner dress, circa 1943, large woven label ‘27 avenue Matignon, Paris’, with draped panels to the hips which form pockets, three quarter length sleeves edged with deep fringes, zip-fastened to centre front, padded shoulders, self-tie belt, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in £300 - 350


76 76 a rare hermès leather coat, late 1940s-early 1950s, large woven label and carriage-motif damask lining, of yellow leather with chocolate brown top-stitched detailing, padded shoulders, wide belt, chest 92cm, 36in £500 - 900

78 77 a grey silk foulard afternoon dress, circa 1945, bearing a woven, un-dated Lanvin label pencil numbered 4032, with curved, pleated sleeves, deep Vshaped panels to bodice front and back from which pleats fall, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in £300 - 350

78 a Balenciaga couture black wool and taffeta dinner gown, Winter 1953, Eisa labelled, with diagonal front waistline, taffeta edged panels tie at the hip, buttons below, bust 86-92cm, 34-36in, waist 51cm, 20in £1500 - 2000

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79 79 a Charles James for William Popper red wool coat, 1952, labelled ‘William Popper from a design by Charles James’ and also with ‘i Magnin label’, with curved yoke to front and back, graduated hem, chest 92cm, 36in £1500 - 2500

79 (label) 28

80 80 a Balenciaga couture black faille tent coat, 1950s, Eisa labelled, of voluminous cut, self-lined £1500 - 2000

81 a Balenciaga black velvet and grey feather fringed hat, late 1950s, labelled £200 - 300

82 a Balenciaga couture black and white tweed suit, late 1950s, Eisa labelled, comprising doublebreasted jacket with velvet collar and zocalo skirt, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) £500 - 700

83 a Pierre Balmain couture blue lace cocktail dress, mid 1950s, labelled and numbered 70.216, with goffered tulle and lace flounces to the skirt, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in £400 - 600


84 84 a Pierre Balmain black faille ball gown, circa 1950, with woven white on black label ‘Pierre Balmain, Paris, soie naturelle’ the flamenco-style graduated hem edged and part lined in bright pink silk faille, boned integral corset, decorative buttons to front, gentle fold to décolleté trimmed with a bow, the skirt with graduated bands of pleats, layers of pink tulle petticoats, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in £600 - 1000

86 85 a nina ricci tartan wool suit, circa 1950, with large woven white on brown satin label bearing ‘20 rue des Capucines’ address, with lightly padded shoulders, pleated knee-length skirt, chest 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) £350 - 500

86 a chiné taffeta ball gown, attributed to Maggy rouff, circa 1954, un-labelled, the boned strapless bodice with large bow to front, the full skirt with graduated hemline - cut shorter at the front to reveal the ankles, with pleated band to hem and bow, integral tulle and crin petticoats, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in

a chiné taffeta ball gown, by Maggy rouff made from a Ducharne silk with similar hemline was photographed in L’art de la Mode, March, 1954. £500 - 800

84 (label) 29


87 a Chanel couture striped satin cocktail dress, spring-summer, 1956, labelled and numbered 4078, the boned strapless bodice striped in burgundy/brown and ivory, with matching bows and band to hem, spotted beige/ivory organdy skirt and lined in another layer of organdy, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in

a similar gown was photographed by seeberger in ‘femme Chic’ no 466 spring-summer, 1956, p.166. ÂŁ1000 - 1200

87

87 (label) 30

87 (detail)


88

89

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88 a Christian Dior couture heavy black silk dinner gown and bolero, autumn-Winter, 1952, labelled and handwritten numbered 53763, with integral tulle corset, the bodice adorned with black beads and fringes, cap sleeves, broad pleated skirt, with matching bolero, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 69cm, 27in ÂŁ1000 - 1500

89 a Christian Dior London pink and silver brocaded satin gown, late 1950s, labelled, comprising boned strapless bodice with pointed wing to front, draped tulip-shaped skirt and obi-like belt, bust 76-79cm, 30-31in, waist 56cm, 22in (3) ÂŁ700 - 1000

90 a fine Christian Dior London black taffeta cocktail dress, circa 1957, labelled and numbered 17972, with cross-over bodice, elbow length sleeves, the skirt with fringed edging, swagged and held in place by three large bows, with corsetted tulle petticoat, bust 9297cm, 36-38in (2) ÂŁ600 - 900

88 (label)

89 (label)

90 (label) 31


91 an Yves saint Laurent for Christian Dior black shantung dinner gown ‘hazel’, model no 30, springsummer, 1959, un-labelled, the bodice with wide boat neckline, three buttons, knife-pleated skirt with integral tulle, crin and moiré petticoats with rigid hoop, matching belt, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 56cm, 22in £2000 - 3000

91 (detail)

91 32


92

92 an embroidered organza dress, attributed to Christian Dior, ‘sinous’ collection, springsummer 1952, with notched ‘puritan’ collar, embroidered with grasses in shades of green and appliquéd with pink rose buds, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 74cm, 29in

This gown bears a close resemblance to Dior’s daisy dress ‘Vilmorin’ from the springsummer 1952 collection. £1500 - 2500

93 a Paquin flecked tweed jacket, 1954, woven satin label, with shaped stomacher-style front panels, shaped front hem, lined in tartan silk, chest 86cm, 34in £150 - 250

92 (detail) 94 a Jacques fath black wool dinner dress, autumn-Winter, 1950, with large woven satin label, the draped and tucked cowl-like neckline with bow, silk gros-grain edged diagonal front pockets, and vertical bands to the rear skirt which form multiple kick-pleats at the hem, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in

This model was reproduced in L’art et la Mode, no 2739, Winter 1950. £600 - 700

95 a flamenco style printed ivory cotton piqué dance dress, circa 1952, the boned strapless bodice adorned with goffered scarlet organza, similar trim to skirt, printed and flocked with black polka dots; with handwritten muslin tag to hem ‘Californie atelier Lucienne stella’ and also applied with a small, narrow Maggy rouff label; together with a tulle petticoat, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) £400 - 500

33


97 a Givenchy couture red chiné taffeta cocktail dress, circa 1957, labelled but not numbered, the fitted bodice over bell-shaped skirt with criss-cross pleated bands to front hem, bust 8692cm, 34-36in, waist 61cm, 24in £400 - 600

98 a Jean Dessès designed black wool dress, early 1950s, with printed label ‘styled by Jean Dessès, Paris’, the strapless gown with boned bustier bodice, diagonal buttoned fastening, gored front over-skirt, pencil under-skirt, wired underarm panels, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 56cm, 22in £350 - 500 96 96 a Jacques Griffe black wool dinner gown, circa 1950, with woven name in petersham waistbands, comprising trapezoid over-dress, the bodice interlined to hold its shape, with wide open-sided armholes, with separate silk camisole worn within, button fronted with vented pockets to the hips, pencil skirt, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) £700 - 1000

99 a chiné taffeta ball gown of staron silk, circa 1956, the skirt bearing a small Jacques Griffe label woven with a thumb-print, with curved band outlining the bust, deep V to waist, the silk woven with large scattered poppies, bust 97cm, 38in

Pierre Balmain, Jacques fath and Jean Dessès also produced dresses using this fabric for their spring-summer 1956 collections. L’officiel nos 409-410 p.210 shows the fath version. £450 - 600

101 101 an Yves saint Laurent for Christian Dior ‘Trapeze’ collection black shantung cocktail ensemble, spring-summer, 1958, labelled and numbered 94017, comprising under-dress with integral silk camisole; the over-bodice with bow to front, graduated, tabbed, weighted hem, three quarter length sleeves, lined in organza, bust 86cm, 34in (2) £1500 - 2500

100 a robert Piguet mustard yellow wool day dress, circa 1950, labelled, with bell shaped sleeves, large concave buttons to curved tab on bodice and skirt; together with a polka dot shantung silk waist sash, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) £250 - 300 96 (label) 34

101 (label)


102 a stylish Pierre Balmain oyster satin evening gown, 1959, labelled and numbered 84-466, the diagonally swathed empire line bodice with broad halter-neck straps, the hobble skirt is swathed around the body and held in place by a buckle below the breast, bust 86cm, 34in

This model was illustrated in Madge Garland’s book ‘fashion’ p.32. £3000 - 5000

103 a Jean Dessès mauve moiré dinner dress, circa 1950, labelled and numbered 7278, with twisted band of fabric to the front bodice which attaches to bolero style back-panels, the princess-line skirt with curved apron-like front panel, kick pleat to rear hem, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in £350 - 500

104 (detail)

102 104 a Balenciaga couture black lace cocktail sheath, spring 1964, labelled and numbered 90903, with integral grosgrain corset, the embroidered black lace over crêpe de chine ground, bust approx 86cm, 34in £600 - 1000

104 (label)

104 35


105 (side)

105 105 a Cristobal Balenciaga primrose yellow silk ball gown, circa 1960, labelled, number is indistinct, the waistline gradually descends from front to back and is punctuated by a single bow, bust 91cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in ÂŁ2000 - 3000 105 (detail) 36


106

108

109

106 a Courrèges faux fur coat, late 1960s, labelled ‘Courreges Paris’, the chocolate brown plush contrasting with cream vinyl trim, chest 92cm, 36in £450 - 600

108 a ‘Take 6’ printed cotton ‘flower power’ jacket, late 1960s, labelled ‘Brent & Collins Take 6, Carnaby st and Wardour st London W1’, with three buttons to fasten, grey rayon lining, chest 102cm, 40in £600 - 1000

109 a simpson of Picadilly Yves saint Laurent-inspired Mondrian dress, circa 1965-6, labelled simpsons and also strohbach Boutique, of cream, brown and black wool, bust 96cm, 38in £600 - 800

107 a navy wool teddy boy suit, probably late 60s-early 70s, the jacket with black velvet lapels and cuffs, tapering trousers, chest 102cm, 42in, waist 81cm, 32in (2) £200 - 300

110 a ready to wear copy of an Courrèges couture jersey dress, circa 1968, un-labelled, with scalloped top-stitched yoke and matching patch pockets, bust 86cm, 34in

108 (label)

see the original Courrèges example on http://www.ciaovogue.com/2010/ 08/february-1968-uk-vogue.html. £200 - 300

37


111 a fine Madame Grès navy pleated jersey evening gown, circa 1960, labelled, the fitted bodice with split to centre front and with vertical splits running down the centre back and to either side with small tabs to hold them in place, bust 86-91cm, 34-36in, waist 66cm, 26in £2500 - 3500

112 a Madame Grès raspeberry pink knitted silk jersey evening gown, 1960s, labelled, with sari-like drape over one shoulder, side slit to hem, bust 92cm, 36in £500 - 700

111 (detail)

113 a nina ricci couture gold brocaded cocktail suit, 1961, gold on ivory satin label, the doublebreasted jacket with gilt filigree buttons studded with rhinestones, the Persian style fabric, probably by Bianchini ferier, matching knee-length skirt and bag, chest 107cm, 42in, waist 87cm, 34in (3)

This ensemble was commissioned by the vendor for a visit by the shah of iran to Paris in 1961. £400 - 600

111

114 a Chanel couture pale blue tweed suit, circa 1960, labelled and numbered indistinctly 623829, with satin ribbons laced through the borders, gilt filigree lion mask buttons, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 76cm, 38in (2) £500 - 700

115 a Balenciaga couture black silk cloqué cocktail gown, 1962-64, Eisa labelled, with integral wide gros-grain boned waspie, crossover back fastening with bow to one side, curved seams run from underarm to rear waist, bust approx 102cm, 40in, waist 71cm, 28in £800 - 1000

115 (back) 38


116 a Valentino couture salmon-pink crêpe evening gown, autumnWinter, 1967-68, labelled ‘Valentino roma’, the boned strapless sheath with heavily beaded hemline, matching asymmetric over-tunic with single sleeve, heavily embroidered with crystal, pearl, gold and clear bugle beads, elaborate scalloped edges, bust approx 81cm, 32in (2)

a similar gown in pale green was worn by Jacqueline Kennedy for an official visit to Cambodia in 1968, see website illustration. £400 - 600

116 (label)

116 117 a Givenchy couture floral lamé evening gown and matching turban, circa 1969, labelled and numbered 52394, empire line with long sleeves, the floral print entirely covered with coloured rhinestone brilliants and pearlised sequins, bust 86cm, 34in (2) £450 - 600

116 (detail)

118 a Chanel couture ivory ottoman wool shift dress and coat, late 1960s, woven black lettering on white label, indistinctly numbered, with cast gilt brass buttons with lion’s head centres down one side of dress and to the coat, chest 97cm, 38in £600 - 1000

119 a Jean Patou couture brown sequined cocktail dress, 1968, labelled and numbered 91765, a-line with satin edging and lining, matching ribbon bow belt, bust 97cm, 38in £350 - 500 39


120 a fine Madame Grès black silk jersey sheath, autumn-Winter, 1961-62, labelled, the empireline bodice with horizontal pleating and two central knots, the bodice with integral corsetry, bust 81cm, 32in

124 a Balenciaga couture organza evening coat, spring-summer 1963, Paris labelled and numbered 87552, the brown organza ground entirely covered in curling silk petals in shades of brown, chest approx 127cm, 50in £400 - 600

Literature: a red example is illustrated in ‘Madame Gres, La Couture a l’oeuvre’, by olivier saillard, p.60 £2000 - 3000

121 a John Cavanagh couture black organza cocktail dress, circa 1960, labelled and numbered ‘6503, s.Daley’, with boned integral corset, white organza and tulle base and petticoats, bust 86cm, 34in £400 - 600

120 (detail)

126 a Jeanne Lanvin couture black velvet evening gown, late 1960s, labelled and pencil numbered to the reverse 80009, with spaghetti straps, square neckline, columnar skirt with large obi-like folds to the back, trained skirt, bust 81cm, 32in £400 - 600

122 a John Cavanagh couture ivory silk faille gown and jacket, circa 1960, labelled and numbered ‘10177 and Mrs Daley’, with brown and green satin cummerbund-like sash, bust 86cm, 34in (2) £400 - 600

127 a black taffeta cocktail dress, late 1950s or early 1960s, un-labelled but couture finished, the skirt with flounces of pinked, scalloped taffeta, satin ribbon tie to waist, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 61cm, 24in

123 a Paquin printed blue shantung silk cocktail dress, circa 1960, Pret a Porter label, the cross-over bodice tying at the rear, bust 92cm, 36in £250 - 400

The treatment of the skirt is characteristic of pieces by Balenciaga £300 - 500 120

40

125 an hubert de Givenchy couture orange brocatelle silk coat, late 1960s, labelled and numbered 40907, double-breasted, the sleeves cut in one with the front and back panels, chest 92cm, 36in £400 - 600


128

130 (label)

Lots 128 to 134 originally belonged to Diana Vreeland and were given to a close family friend. 128 The stencilled canvas stretcher from Diana Vreeland’s director’s chair, circa 1980, stencilled in red on black, 16 by 56cm

she used the director’s chair in her office at the Metropolitan Museum. £100 - 150

129 Diana Vreeland’s Yves saint Laurent safari jacket, 1968, rive Gauche labelled, with four patch pockets and matching belt, bust 92cm, 36in (2)

129

130 130 Diana Vreeland’s Mainbocher navy wool coat, mid 1960s, unlabelled, lined with luxurious black astrakhan, double breasted with broad, sloping pocket flaps to the front, still bearing furrier’s tag bearing the name ‘Mrs Vreeland’, chest 112cm, 44in

This piece was displayed in the ‘Diana Vreeland after Diana Vreeland’ exhibition at the Palazzo fortuny florence in 2012. she was photographed wearing this jacket in her new York apartment for the ‘architectural Digest’ magazine. £600 - 800

This piece was included in the ‘Diana Vreeland after Diana Vreeland’ exhibition at the Palazzo fortuny florence in 2012. £700 - 1000 129

41


131 Diana Vreeland’s Yves saint Laurent couture crushed black velvet evening ensemble, specially created for her to wear to the opening of the Metropolitan Museum’s ‘royal india’ show, 16th December, 1985, labelled and numbered 59641, the long slim-fitting coat with elaborate Lesage embroidery and beading of baroque golden glass stones, crystals, gold bugle beads and pink droplets lined in ‘rose paris’ charmeuse, matching long, slim skirt, bust 92cm, 36in, waist 66cm, 26in (2)

The design is similar to those made for st Laurent’s ‘india’ collection of spring/summer 1981. Mrs Vreeland had also commissioned him to make a Chinese ensemble redolent of his 1977/78 collection for the opening of the Metropolitan’s ‘Manchu Dragon’ exhibition of December 1980. £2000 - 3000

131

131 (label)

131 (detail) 42


132

133

132 Diana Vreeland’s saint Laurent navy wool pea coat, late 1960s, rive Gauche labelled, doublebreasted, with red Legion d’honneur ribbon to the curved collar, chest 92cm, 36in

Mrs Vreeland was created chevalier de la Legion d’honneur in 1970. Upon receiving news of this honour she sent a telegram to her son frederic (then a diplomat with the Us embassy in Paris), saying ‘darling buy me 5 yards of that ribbon’. as only a cm of the ribbon could be used on any single garment - this was an extremely extravagant request. she wore the coat until 1980 when she gave it to a family friend who she felt needed to keep warm! £700 - 1000

132 (detail)

133 (detail)

133 Diana Vreeland’s Yves saint Laurent black velvet evening jacket, 1981, rive Gauche labelled, with elaborate jewelled borders, enamel and rhinestone buttons, chest 102cm, 42in £500 - 800 43


136 a Madame Grès mustard wool coat, probably early 1970s, labelled, the fitted coat formed from top-stitched panels which flare out towards the hem, with tabbed return to neck, broad brown suede belt, bust 86cm, 34in £400 - 600

137 an andre Courrèges black wool cocktail dress, early 1970s, labelled Courrèges Paris, size a, with vinyl bows to the shoulders, bust 81cm, 32in £200 - 300

134 134 Diana Vreeland’s turned ivory cigarette holder, probably 1920s, in four adjustable sections which screw together, the flared tip painted gold, 36cm, 14in fully extended

138 a Givenchy couture printed organza evening gown, springsummer, 1979, labelled and numbered 52394, of pistachiogreen staron organza printed with irregular spots, with integral corset, grey satin ribbon belt, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in £500 - 900

This was included in the ‘Diana Vreeland after Diana Vreeland’ exhibition at the Palazzo fortuny florence in 2012. Mrs Vreeland was photographed numerous times with this cigarette holder and also had her portrait painted by Cecil Beaton using it.

139 an ossie Clark black silk crêpe ‘Bridget’ dress, early 1970s, labelled ‘ossie Clark, size 10’, with plunging neckline, wrap-over skirt with knife-pleated side panels, bust approx 86cm, 34in £400 - 600

Please note that this lot cannot be exported outside the EU. £400 - 600

135 a Pierre Cardin black moss crêpe wool evening gown, 1970, labelled, the high neck with stand collar, V-shaped yoke to bodice which echoes the pointed hem edged in ‘car-wash’ fringe, bust 81cm, 32in This Cardin gown was illustrated in l’officiel, spring 1970. £350 - 500 44

138


140 (detail)

140 (part)

141

141 (detail) 140 a couture embroidered organza evening gown, probably Madame Grès, circa 1980, un-labelled, the bodice embroidered with large pink and white sequined and beaded flowerheads and foliage in shades of turquoise and green, full skirt of deep turquoise organza, together with a peacock blue organza double-breasted coat to wear over it, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in (2) £500 - 700

141 an ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell for radley printed marocain dress, mid 1970s, with ‘Pretty Woman’ print in shades of blue, green and red, smock-style with ties at the waist, shirred cuffs, bust 8692cm, 34-36in £500 - 600

142 an ossie Clark ivory damask ‘Bridget’ dress, early 1970s, labelled ‘Quorum’, with plunging neckline, wrap-over skirt with knife-pleated side panels, bust approx 86cm, 34in £450 - 700

140 (part) 45


144

143 143 an ossie Clark cut velvet and chiffon evening gown, late 1980s, with narrow gold and black gold label applied to one shoulder, bias-cut, the plunging neckline with ties, elongated gothic sleeves with pointed cuffs, bust approx 81cm, 32in

Provenance: Marie helvin collection, ex KTa, 8th December, 2009. Marie helvin first modelled for ossie in his fashion show on 11th november 1975. she remained a friend and a client until his death in 1996. This gown was a special one-off for Marie and bears the narrow gold label he used in the latter years of his career. £500 - 900 46

144 antonio Lopez (1943-1987) fashion sketch of Palamo Picasso wearing Yves saint Laurent haute couture, Paris, circa 1981, signed, worked in pencil and watercolour, the figure wearing a tight black lace sheath with layered tulle hem, matching long evening gloves, probably autumn-Winter 1981 collection, 52 by 25cm, 20 1/2 by 9 3/4in within mount and frame

Provenance: sotheby’s ‘The art of fashion’ Diana Vreeland auction to benefit the Costume institute of the Metropolitan Museum of art, april 18, 1980, lot 49 and donated by the Estate of antonio Lopez. £2000 - 3000

146 146 a Christian Lacroix cocktail ensemble, 1987, gold label, comprising hound’s tooth checked jacket with lace bustle and cuffs, with chiné satin skirt in matching colour palette, chest 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in (2)

This was purchased by the vendor from Lacroix’s first couture show in 1987. £1000 - 1500

145 an issey Miyake brown wool/silk coat, late 1980s, labelled and size M, with fan pleats radiating from the shoulders and caught at the back by a buttoned belt, graduated front hem, chest approx 102cm, 40in £300 - 500 146 (label)


147

148 148 a dramatic Thierry Mugler pink satin and black Chantilly lace covered evening gown, 1994, labelled and size 40, with black velvet appliquĂŠd points to emphasise the curves, trained skirt, long sleeves, bust 91cm, 36in ÂŁ2000 - 3000

147 a fine Thierry Mugler Cleopatrastyle pleated gold lurex and grey jersey evening gown, circa 1980, blue label, with pleated hip panels, central fan-shaped godet to skirt, curling papyrus-blossom curls to the breasts, zip fastened, bust 86cm, 34in ÂŁ2000 - 3000

147 (detail) 47


149 149 David Bowie’s Kansai Yamamoto denim effect double-breasted jacket, 1985, labelled ‘Kansai international’ and also signed to the interior in red marker pen ‘Bowie ‘85’, with blue satin lapels, the metal cast with ‘Kansai, 1985’, with padded shoulders, ribbed pleats to the rear skirt forming two pouches, chest 117cm, 46in; together with a letter from Mr Bowie’s agent donating the jacket to a charitable cause (2)

150 150 a Kansai Yamamoto man’s appliquéd leather tunic, early 1980s, applied with brown and silver abstract panels to the front and back, padded shoulders edged in silver leather, zip fastened, chest 112cm, 44in £500 - 800

149 (button)

This jacket is sold in aid of the open nest Charity which gives respite and support to foster carers and adoptive parents, see www.theopennest.co.uk £800 - 1200 149 (signature) 48

151 a good Kansai Yamamoto sweater, 1980s, labelled and size s, the front with stylised kabuki face and ‘Kansai’ in silver lurex thread, asymmetric hemline £300 - 500


152 a Westwood/McLaren seditionaries black cotton parachute top, late 1970s, with narrow ribbon to breast pocket, rubber buttons and textured buckles, chest 102cm, 40in

Provenance: from the wardrobe of richard Purdom who wore this parachute top in the late 1970searly 1980s. There is an image of him wearing it in the web catalogue listing. £450 - 600

153 a Vivienne Westwood ruffled white cotton ‘mini-crini’ skirt, spring-summer, 1985, red label; together with a pink and white striped wool blazer embroidered to the pocket with a ‘Deep sky’ and the orb logo; and a white cotton top, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 71cm, 28in (3) £400 - 600

154 a Jean Paul Gaultier black jersey and patent vinyl evening dress, autumn-Winter, 1992-93, femme labelled, and size 44, with plaited straps, top-stitched yoke, buckle detailing, criss-cross laces to hem, bust approx 81cm, 32in

Madonna wore a breast revealing version of this dress at a Los angeles fashion show in 1992. http://vdownload.eu/watch/1602 553-madonna-at-jean-paulgaultier-fashion-show-in-los-ange les-1992.html. £200 - 300

156 155 an Yves saint Laurent fuchsia pink cocktail gown, defilé model for the autumn-Winter 1993-94 couture collection, muslin tag annotated with collection date, ‘model 35, Loudmilla, atelier Catherine’, with flounced plunging neckline, peplum waist with bow, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in

156 a rare Vivienne Westwood ‘Mini-crini’ collection french-maid ensemble, spring-summer, 1985, red label, comprising: voluminous blouse with orb embroidered logo to the chest, frilled collar and cuffs; the matching skirt with integral hoops and flounce to hem, bust 112cm, 44in, waist 66cm, 26in (2) £600 - 800

This ensemble is photographed being modelled by Loudmilla in ‘L’officiel de la Mode’ september 1993, p.278. £400 - 600 49


157 157 a striking Thierry Mugler white fur coat, early 1990s, blue couture label, the white fur with crisscross lattice of black fur, pointed rear tails, chest 92cm, 36in £1200 - 1500

158 a Thierry Mugler black lace and oyster satin cocktail suit, early 1990s, woven blue label, size 36, with curved seams to emphasise the breasts and hips, black velvet bow, pointed hem, over short pencil skirt, chest 86cm, 34in, waist 60cm, 24in (2) £300 - 400

50

159 159 a Martin Margiela semi-Couture bodice, 1996, with blank artisanal label, the tan toile-effect exterior stamped ‘42, semi couture, Paris, Brevete, sGEG, 35059’, fastened centre-front by hooks and eyes, lined in black cotton, bust 92cm, 36in £1200 - 1800

160 an azzedine alaïa camel cotton trouser suit, circa 1990, labelled, the fitted jacket with corset-like ribbed panels with string fringes, matching trousers, chest 97cm, 38in, waist 71cm, 28in (2) £250 - 350

161 a Thierry Mugler black wool and velvet redingote, circa 1990, with blue label and size 40, the curved, padded hips outlined in velvet, chest 92cm, 36in, waist 71cm, 28in £400 - 600

162 a Gianni Versace clinging black and red evening gown, circa 1998, ‘couture’ label, size 44, of stretch polyamide and nylon with large cut out at the back and boned hip seam, bust approx 86cm, 34in £150 - 250


163

166

168

163 a Yohji Yamamoto distressed knit gown spring-summer, 1993, labelled, the stocking stitch knit panels intersected by intentionally laddered, points, frayed hem and cuff adornments, bust 112cm, 44in £800 - 1200

166 an Yves saint Laurent couture colour-block 'Pop art' style wool dress, spring-summer, 1991, labelled and numbered 013633, formed from deep purple, magenta and apple-green wooljersey panels, lined in purple and black silk, bust 94cm, 37in £4000 - 6000

167 an issey Miyake panelled cotton ‘combat’ suit, 1990s, labelled and size M, in shades of grey and black, chest 102cm, waist 76cm, 30in (2) £250 - 400

164 a Yohji Yamamoto back gabardine jacket, probably 1990s, labelled and size M, with furisode-like sleeves £250 - 350

165 an issey Miyake lantern pleated brown polyester skirt, circa 2005, labelled, button fastened £300 - 500

166 (label)

168 a Junya Watanabe for Comme des Garçons black cotton ‘Circle’ dress, 1997, of dishevelled appearance, punctuated by multiple circular holes, with ruched and gathered panels and puckered pockets £600 - 1000 169 an issey Miyake black nylon tunic, 1990s, labelled and size s, with orange satin jacquard weave zip bands to neck inset with a real zip; together with a pair of Junya Watanabe tweed trousers, 1990s, chest 102cm, 40in, waist 81cm, 32in (2) £200 - 300 51


170

172

170 a rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons gingham dress, springsummer, 1997 (Bump) collection, robe de Chambre labelled and dated 1996, of stretch polyester, holes cut for the neck and arms, irregular seams creating an empire line bust with bulges to the sides, ruff-like cowl with bulges to the shoulders, bust approx 86cm, 34in £500 - 800

172 an issey Miyake pleated evening gown, 2003, labelled, the black cotton jersey under-dress overlaid with multi-coloured pleated polyester panels which cascade down the back skirt, hooks to the front bodice for criss-cross lacing, bust approx 86cm, 34in £600 - 800

173 a Commes des Garçons pink gingham padded jacket and skirt, probably spring-summer 2005, the label dated 2004, comprising stiff, voluminous jacket, the matching skirt with graduated hem, leather lacing, pink nylon organza ruffles to the back, size M, both with original shop tags (2) £500 - 900

171 a Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons black cotton dress, 2002, labelled, with curved wires supporting the upper sleeves which are attached to an inner bodice, zip fastener centre front concealed within vertical ruffle, bust approx 86cm, 34in £400 - 600 173 52

170


174 an alexander McQueen for Givenchy crĂŞpe de chine jump suit and brocaded kimono, autumnWinter, 1997 haute couture collection, labelled Givenchy haute couture, no 28, at.Catherine, a/h 97 and stamped in red ViP, comprising: grey crĂŞpe de chine strapless jumpsuit with integral corset, the bodice with Vshaped panel of grey cockerel plumes, the wide legs with turnups, worn under wide-necked kimono in wine and gold brocade woven with a lattice of birds on boughs, edged in grey satin, fastened with rhinestone studded metal hooks and eyes, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in; together with an image of the ensemble being modelled on the catwalk (3) ÂŁ5000 - 8000

174 (part)

174 (detail)

174

174 (detail) 53


175

176 (detail)

176 an alexander McQueen for Givenchy chain-fringed grey crêpe de chine evening gown, springsummer haute couture collection, 1998, labelled P/E 1998, no 14 and with Press sample stamped in black, the white organza bodice with diagonal band of scale-like silver chain loops descending diagonally from the high neck across the hips, the skirt front with metal bauble buttons, long trained skirt, bust 81cm, 32in; together with an image of the gown being worn on the catwalk (2) £3500 - 5000

175 an alexander McQueen for Givenchy couture sequined purple satin evening gown, springsummer, 1999, Givenchy couture label, handwrittten with the collection date and stamped ‘Press sample’, model no 12, the sheer white organza bodice applied with deco-style lozenges in pearlised sequins in shades of purple-grey, fine seed beads in shades of mauve, long girdle like streamers to front of skirt, bust 76cm, 30in, waist 61cm, 24in; together with a photograph of the gown being modelled (2) £3000 - 5000 176 (detail)

54

176


177 an alexander McQueen for Givenchy hokusai wave patterned, beaded cocktail dress, spring-summer haute couture collection, 1998, labelled P/E 1998, no 13, aT Catherine and with Press sample stamped in black and ViP in red, with plunging neckline echoed in the pointed hem front and back, the white organza ground masterfully covered in beaded fringes reminiscent of the great Japanese print, with blue waves against a tangerine-orange beaded sky, zip fastened, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 61cm, 24in; together with a photograph of the gown being modelled on the catwalk (2)

The ‘Great Wave off Kanagawa’ c.1831 was the renowned Japanese print maker - hokusai’s most famous print. £4000 - 6000

177

177 (back)

177 (detail) 55


179 an alexander McQueen embroidered wool ensemble, ‘Eshu’ collection, autumn-Winter, 2000-2001, narrow gold on black woven label, comprising: a brown leather patchwork and knit jacket, size 44, and a brown wool kiltskirt, size 46, adorned with gold, silver and red purl wire bird of paradise spangled with sequins (2) £400 - 600

180 a Paco rabanne chainmail halterneck bodice and matching skirt, circa 2000, with oval maker’s tag to bodice, with clear vinyl collar and chain closure to neck and rear waist, the matching mini-skirt with rivetted bands, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in (2) £1200 - 1800

178

181

178 an alexander McQueen for Givenchy embroidered black crêpe cat-suit, spring/summer 1998 ready to wear collection, with Givenchy Paris ‘couture’ label, the strapless bodice with boned inner corset, embroidered with two golden eagles on a bough, bust 76-82cm, 30-32in, waist 56cm, 26in

181 an alexander McQueen for Givenchy beaded black silk organza evening gown, autumnWinter 1998-99 ready to wear collection, un-labelled, covered with a shimmer of black sequins with cross-hatched patterns in shaded blue beads, bust 81cm, 32in, waist 64cm, 25in

for an image of this piece on the catwalk see: http://forums.thefashionspot.co m/f116/1996-2001-givenchyalexander-mcqueen-ready-wear-h aute-couture-121177.html, page 2. £1500 - 2500

for an image of this piece on the catwalk see: http://forums.thefashionspot.co m/f116/1996-2001-givenchyalexander-mcqueen-ready-wear-h aute-couture-121177.html, page 5 £600 - 800 180 56


184 an alexander McQueen green stretch satin and tulle evening gown, ‘What a Merry Go round’ collection, autumn-Winter 2001, narrow black and gold label, the dress formed from a zippered spiral of jersey with tiered, tousled tulle collar and handkerchief sleeves, the skirt with jagged hemline applied with tulle panels, bust 86cm, 34in £500 - 800

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185

182 an alexander McQueen silver-grey satin bias cut evening gown, 2007, narrow white on grey label, size 44, the draped cowl neck edged with silver beaded fringes, embossed sequin edges, zip fastened to one side, long trained skirt, bust approx 92cm, 36in, waist approx 76cm, 30in; with original shop tag and spare beads £1200 - 1800

185 an alexander McQueen midnight blue satin bias evening gown, 2008, white on grey label, size 38, with oyster satin lining and facing, scarf like swathed drape to one shoulder, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in, with original shop tag £1000 - 1500

186 an alexander McQueen ‘irere’ collection black chiffon evening gown, spring-summer, 2003, woven grey label and size 44, the corsetted inner bodice covered with cross-over swathes of chiffon with ragged edges, twists of chiffon form the shoulders, floating panels to the shoulders, bust 92cm, 36in £500 - 900

183 an alexander McQueen bias cut lilac satin and black lace evening gown, circa 2007, woven grey and white narrow label, size 38, with sash tie to one hip, long trained skirt, bust approx 81cm, 32in, waist 66cm, 26in, with original shop tag £600 - 1000

184 57


187 187 an alexander McQueen black bugle beaded halter-neck cocktail dress, 2007, labelled, with low scooped back, undulating black bugle beads to the bodice, the skirt falling in multi-layered tulle tiers inset with flaring godets, bust approx 86cm, 34in; with bag of spare beads (2) £1500 - 2000

188 188 an alexander McQueen red and black jacquard weave cocktail dress, ‘The horn of Plenty’ collection, autumn-Winter, 200910, narrow white on grey label and size 44, woven with black birds silhouetted against a red ground, deep, curved pocket to left hem, high, wide collar, bust approx 112cm, 44in, with original shop tag £800 - 1200

189 a John Galliano embroidered satin shawl, 1990s, with printed rubber label and embroidered signature to one corner, worked with ivory vine leaves, deep knotted fringe £100 - 150

187 (bodice) 58

190 a Versace black leather and lace evening gown, autumn-Winter 2001-2, labelled Gianni Versace Couture size 40, with panelled leather upper bodice and high collar, cleavage revealing cut-out, criss cross straps and strappy belt, bust approx 86-92cm, 3436in; together with 9 photographs showing Lady Gaga wearing an identical dress on stage and also catwalk images of the model; together with another Gianni Versace couture labelled halterneck dress with rope tie to neck and swarovski crystal studs to the bodice, size 40 (11) £400 - 600


191 an alexander McQueen ‘Plato’s atlantis’ collection snakeskin printed organza dress, springsummer, 2010, grey label and size 38, with python-like photo-collage print, rounded satin cap sleeves, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 61cm, 24in £3000 - 5000

191

191 (back)

191 (detail)

192 an alexander McQueen ‘Plato’s atlantis’ collection body suit, spring-summer, 2010, unlabelled and un-finished, probably a sample, zip fastened to back and cuffs, hems with raw edges, bust approx 81cm, 32in £400 - 600

191 (detail) 59


193

193 (back)

193 (sketch)

193 (detail)

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193 a rare alexander McQueen moulded leather showpiece prototype, Eshu collection, autumn-Winter 2000-2001, of interwoven wine red leather, with fringed central seams, neck and hem edges,no side seams, zip fastened to centre-back, with sculpted breasts, hips and abdomen, lined in white calico, bust 94cm, 37in, waist 66cm, 26in; together with a coloured xerox of the original McQueen sketch with sample of leather attached, a press picture of a similar bodice in the catwalk show; the original embossed card Eshu show invitation; and a printed contributors list for the spring/summer 2000 show which includes Delia Eccles’ name who was commissioned to make this piece (4)

The design sketch, i was given at the studio to work from. it isn’t signed, but presumably was done either by Lee, sarah heard or sebastian Ponns under Lee’s direction. i should also mention that as a first ‘toile’, while the exterior of the piece looks exquisite, hidden inside, the leather is backed with cream calico fabric, that acts as a support for the woven leather (which is quite thin by itself, and not really suitable for moulding). The construction of the final piece was not much different, though this didn’t bother Lee, whose main concern was to make his idea work, mould the unmouldable and have a stunning showpiece’. £2000 - 3000

194 (detail) 194 an alexander McQueen sequined ‘isabella Blow’ cocktail dress, spring-summer, 2008, woven grey satin label, of black crêpe de chine entirely covered in black sequins with gold beaded portrait of isabella Blow to the front panel, bust 86cm, 34in

Delia Eccles was commissioned to make this bodice just before she began her Ma in moulded leather at Central st Martins. she writes ‘it’s also unusual in that the original design hasn’t seen the light of day (as far as i know), but does give an idea into Lee’s design development process. once he saw how well the bodice worked, he wanted an ankle length version instead which also had only two seams. The final cream piece then morphed into the showpiece which was used for Eshu (which most people are familiar with from the press it received).

Cathy horyn in the new York Times’s review, october 8th, 2007, ‘on friday night, in a collection that was a tribute to the late stylist isabella Blow, Mr. McQueen seemed to almost dare anyone to match him for knowhow and imagination...To be sure, Mr. McQueen revisited some themes that were part of his stylish and complicated collaboration with Ms. Blow, who died in May... in the front of a chic black sequined dress, its image traced in gold beads that were partly concealed by the sequins, was a portrait of Ms. Blow by the photographer steven Meisel. You could see it only from an angle’ £700 - 1000 194 61


195 The alexander McQueen beaded cocktail gown, specially made for isabella Blow, adaped from the Eshu collection, autumn-Winter, 2000-2001, un-labelled, with boned, strapless bodice, the ground covered with acid-yellow beads in high relief which meander in molten lava-flows into the dark brown horse-hair skirt, lined in green silk, bust 81-86cm, 32-34in, waist 66cm, 26in.

for the main collection McQueen produced a high collared version of this dress which isabella admired. however, she insisted that despite the weight of the beads, that she preferred he made for her a strapless version. see ‘savage Beauty’ p.152 Metropolitan Museum of art for the high collared version of this gown. The Eshu collection was inspired by the ancient Yoruba people of Benin and nigeria. To them ‘Eshu’ is a goddess who represents a messenger of death - linking spirit helpers with human beings. McQueen said of the collection ‘i try to push the silhouette. To change the silhouette is to change the thinking of how we look. What i do is look at ancient african tribes, and the way they dress. The rituals of how they dress. There’s a lot of tribalism in the collections’. ‘savage Beauty’ Metropolitan Museum p.150. £25000 - 35000

195

195 (detail) 62


195 (detail)

195 (side)

End of sale

We are now accepting entries for our autumn series of sales. Please contact us for a free auction valuation.

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ConDiTions of BUsinEss for BUYErs 1. introduction (a) The contractual relationship of Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd &. and sellers with prospective Buyers is governed by:(i) these Conditions of Business for Buyers; (ii) the Conditions of Business for sellers displayed in the saleroom and available from Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd; (iii) Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd’s authenticity Guarantee; (iv) any additional notices and terms printed in the sale catalogue, in each case as amended by any saleroom notice or auctioneer’s announcement. (b) as auctioneer, Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd acts as agent for the seller. occasionally, Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd may own or have a financial interest in a lot. 2. Definitions “Bidder“ is any person making, attempting or considering making a bid, including Buyers; “Buyer“ is the person who makes the highest bid or offer accepted by the auctioneer, including a Buyer’s principal when bidding as agent; “seller“ is the person offering a lot for sale, including their agent, or executors; “KT” means Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd of 249-253 Long Lane, London sE1 4Pr, company number 7173571 “Buyer’s Expenses” are any costs or expenses due to Kerry Taylor auctions from the Buyer; “Buyer’s Premium“ is the commission payable by the Buyer on the hammer Price at the rates set out in the Guide for Prospective Buyers; “hammer Price“ is the highest bid for the Property accepted by the auctioneer at the auction or the post auction sale price; “Purchase Price“ is the hammer Price plus applicable Buyer’s Premium and Buyer’s Expenses; “reserve Price“ (where applicable) is the minimum hammer Price at which the seller has agreed to sell a lot.

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The Buyer’s Premium, Buyer’s Expenses and hammer Price are subject to VaT, where applicable. 3. Examination of Lots (a) KT’s knowledge of lots is partly dependent on information provided by the seller and KT is unable to exercise exhaustive due diligence on each lot. Each lot is available for examination before sale. Bidders are responsible for carrying out examinations and research before sale to satisfy themselves over the condition of lots and accuracy of descriptions. (b) all oral and/or written information provided to Bidders relating to lots, including descriptions in the catalogue, condition reports or elswhere are statements of KT’s opinion and not representations of fact. Estimates may not be relied on as a prediction of the selling price or value of the lot and may be revised from time to time at KT’s absolute discretion. 4. Exclusions and limitations of liability to Buyers (a) KT shall refund the Purchase Price to the Buyer in circumstances where it deems that the lot is a Counterfeit, subject to the terms of KT’s authenticity Guarantee. (b) subject to Condition 4(a), neither KT nor the seller:(i) is liable for any errors or omissions in any oral or written information provided to Bidders by KT, whether negligent or otherwise; (ii) gives any guarantee or warranty to Bidders and any implied warranties and conditions are excluded (save in so far as such obligations cannot be excluded by English law), other than the express warranties given by the seller to the Buyer (for which the seller is solely responsible) under the Conditions of Business for sellers; (iii) accepts responsibility to Bidders for acts or omissions (whether negligent or otherwise) by KT in connection with the conduct of auctions or for any matter relating to the sale of any lot.

(c) Without prejudice to Condition 4(b), any claim against KT and/ or the seller by a Bidder is limited to the Purchase Price for the relevant lot. neither KT nor the seller shall be liable for any indirect or consequential losses. (d) nothing in Condition 4 shall exclude or limit the liability of KT or the seller for death or personal injury caused by the negligent acts or omissions of KT or the seller. 5. Bidding at auction (a) KT has absolute discretion to refuse admission to the auction. Before sale, Bidders must complete a registration form and supply such information and references as KT requires. Bidders are personally liable for their bid and are jointly and severally liable with their principal, if bidding as agent (in which case KT’s prior and express consent must be obtained). (b) KT advises Bidders to attend the auction, but KT will endeavour to execute absentee written bids provided that they are, in KT’s opinion, received in sufficient time and in legible form. (c) When available, written and telephone bidding is offered as a free service at the Bidder’s risk and subject to KT’s other commitments; KT is therefore not liable for failure to execute such bids. Telephone bidding may be recorded. 6. import, Export and Copyright restrictions KT and the seller make no representations or warranties as to whether any lot is subject to import, export or copyright restrictions. it is the Buyer’s sole responsibility to obtain any copyright clearance or any necessary import, export or other licence required by law, including licenses required under the Convention on the international Trade in Endangered species (CiTEs).


7. Conduct of the auction (a) The auctioneer has discretion to refuse bids, withdraw or re-offer lots for sale (including after the fall of the hammer) if (s)he believes that there may be an error or dispute, and may also take such other action as (s)he reasonably deems necessary. (b) The auctioneer will commence and advance the bidding in such increments as (s)he considers appropriate and is entitled to place bids on the seller’s behalf up to the reserve Price for the lot, where applicable. (c) subject to Condition 7(a), the contract between the Buyer and the seller is concluded on the striking of the auctioneer’s hammer. (d) any post-auction sale of lots shall incorporate these Conditions of Business. 8. Payment and Collection (a) Unless otherwise agreed in advance, payment of the Purchase Price is due in pounds sterling immediately after the auction (the “Payment Date”). (b) Title in a lot will not pass to the Buyer until KT has received the Purchase Price in cleared funds. KT will generally not release a lot to a Buyer before payment. Earlier release shall not affect passing of title or the Buyer’s obligation to pay the Purchase Price, as above. (c) The refusal of any licence or permit required by law, as outlined in Condition 6, shall not affect the Buyer’s obligation to pay for the lot, as per Condition 8(a). (d) The Buyer must arrange collection of lots within 10 working days of the auction. Purchased lots are at the Buyer’s risk from the earliest of (i) collection or (ii) 10 working days after the auction. Until risk passes, KT will compensate the Buyer for any loss or damage to the lot up to a maximum of the Purchase Price actually paid by the Buyer. KT’s assumption of risk is subject to the exclusions detailed in Condition 5(d) of the Conditions of Business for sellers.

(e) all packing and handling of lots is at the Buyer’s risk. KT will not be liable for any acts or omissions of third party packers or shippers. 9. remedies for non-payment Without prejudice to any rights that the seller may have, if the Buyer without prior agreement fails to make payment for the lot within 5 working days of the auction,KT may in its sole discretion exercise 1 or more of the following remedies:(a) store the lot at its premises or elsewhere at the Buyer’s sole risk and expense; (b) cancel the sale of the lot; (c) set off any amounts owed to the Buyer by KT against any amounts owed to KT by the Buyer for the lot; (d) reject future bids from the Buyer; (e) charge interest at 4% per annum above The Bank of England’s Base rate from the Payment Date to the date that the Purchase Price is received in cleared funds; (f) re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion, in which case the Buyer will be liable for any shortfall between the original Purchase Price and the amount achieved on re-sale, including all costs incurred in such resale; (g) exercise a lien over any Buyer’s Property in KT’s possession, applying the sale proceeds to any amounts owed by the Buyer to KT. KT shall give the Buyer 14 days written notice before exercising such lien; (h) commence legal proceedings to recover the Purchase Price for the lot, plus interest and legal costs; (i) disclose the Buyer’s details to the seller to enable the seller to commence legal proceedings.

10. failure to collect purchases (a) if the Buyer pays the Purchase Price but does not collect the lot within 14 working days of the auction, the lot will be stored at the Buyer’s expense and risk at KT’s premises or in independent storage. (b) if a lot is paid for but uncollected within 6 months of the auction, following 60 days written notice to the Buyer, KT will re-sell the lot by auction or privately, with estimates and reserves at KT’s discretion. The sale proceeds, less all KT’s costs, will be forfeited unless collected by the Buyer within 2 years of the original auction. 11. Data Protection (a) KT will use information supplied by Bidders or otherwise obtained lawfully by KT for the provision of auction related services, client administration, marketing and as otherwise required by law. (b) By agreeing to these Conditions of Business, the Bidder agrees to the processing of their personal information and to the disclosure of such information to third parties worldwide for the purposes outlined in Condition 11(a) and to sellers as per Condition 9(i). 12. Miscellaneous (a) all images of lots, catalogue descriptions and all other materials produced by KT are the copyright of KT. (b) These Conditions of Business are not assignable by any Buyer without KT’s prior written consent, but are binding on Bidders’ successors, assigns and representatives. (c) The materials listed in Condition 1(a) set out the entire agreement between the parties. (d) if any part of these Conditions of Business be held unenforceable, the remaining parts shall remain in full force and effect. (e) These Conditions of Business shall be interpreted in accordance with English Law, under the exclusive jurisdiction of the English Courts, in favour of KT.

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KErrY TaYLor aUCTions LTD aUThEnTiCiTY GUaranTEE if Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd sells an item of Property which is later shown to be a “Counterfeit”, subject to the terms below Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd will rescind the sale and refund the Buyer the total amount paid by the Buyer to Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd for that Property, up to a maximum of the Purchase Price. The Guarantee lasts for one (1) year after the date of the relevant auction, is for the benefit of the Buyer only and is non-transferable.

“Counterfeit” means an item of Property that in Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd ‘s reasonable opinion is an imitation created with the intent to deceive over the authorship, origin, date, age, period, culture or source, where the correct description of such matters is not included in the catalogue description for the Property. Property shall not be considered Counterfeit solely because of any damage and/or restoration and/or modification work. Please note that this Guarantee does not apply if either:(i) the catalogue description was in accordance with the generally accepted opinions of scholars and experts at the date of the sale, or the catalogue description indicated that there was a conflict of such opinions; or (ii) the only method of establishing at the date of the sale that the item was a Counterfeit would have been by means of processes not then generally available or accepted, unreasonably

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expensive or impractical; or likely to have caused damage to or loss in value to the Property (in Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd’s reasonable opinion); or (iii) there has been no material loss in value of the Property from its value had it accorded with its catalogue description. To claim under this Guarantee, the Buyer must:(i) notify Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd in writing within one (1) month of receiving any information that causes the Buyer to question the authenticity or attribution of the Property, specifying the lot number, date of the auction at which it was purchased and the reasons why it is believed to be Counterfeit; and (ii) return the Property to Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd in the same condition as at the date of sale and be able to transfer good title in the Property, free from any third party claims arising after the date of the sale.

Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd has discretion to waive any of the above requirements. Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd may require the Buyer to obtain at the Buyer’s cost the reports of two independent and recognised experts in the relevant field. Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd shall not be bound by any reports produced by the Buyer, and reserves the right to seek additional expert advice at its own expense. in the event Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd decides to rescind the sale under this Guarantee, it may refund to the Buyer the reasonable costs of up to two mutually approved independent expert reports, provided always that the costs of such reports have been approved in advance and in writing by Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd.


GUiDE To ProsPECTiVE BUYErs Purchasers will be charged a premium of 20% on the hammer price. The premium is subject to VaT at the prevailing rate. There is no VaT charged on lot prices unless otherwise specified in the catalogue by the following symbols Property with a † symbol These items will be sold under the normal UK Vat rules and VaT will be charged at 20% on both the hammer price and buyer’s premium. Property sold with a ‡ symbol. These items have been imported from outside the EU to be sold at auction under temporary importation. VaT will be charged at 5% of the hammer price and 20% on the buyer’s premium. Property sold with a ∆ symbol. These items require a CiTEs licence to export outside of the EU. These cost £59 each and we are happy to assist our clients with applications. Payment Payment is due immediately after the sale in Pounds sterling and may be made by Banker’s draft, Cashier’s cheque, Personal cheque, Wire transfer, Credit cards, Debit cards, Cash and Traveller’s cheques. Payments should be made to Kerry Taylor auctions. Cash payments will not be accepted above £6,000 or $10,000. Payments in person can be made in the saleroom on the day of the sale, after this payments must be made by post, credit, debit card or wire transfer Credit Cards Most major credit card brands are accepted, however surcharges will be added as follows to cover the charge made to us by our bank: Visa and UK Mastercard 3.1%; aMEX 2.6%; EU Mastercard 3.1%; international Mastercard 3.6%. for payments over £20,000 the cardholder must be present. There is no charge for using Debit cards. Please note it may be advisable to notify your credit card provider of your intended purchase in advance, to reduce delays caused by us having to seek authority when you come to pay.

Payment by Cheque if payment is to be made by cheque and the cheque exceeds the cheque card guarantee limit, then goods can only be collected on the day of the sale if the buyer is known to us, or if accompanied by a letter from your bank to guarantee your cheque. Cheques often take as long as eight days to clear. We reserve the right to hold goods until a cheque is cleared. Electronic & Wire Transfers Wire transfers can be made to Bank of scotland 59 Bath street, Glasgow, G2 2Dh sort code: 12-24-81 account number: 10040762 account name: Kerry Taylor auctions Limited iban: GB28Bofs12248110040762 sWifT: BofsGB2s if paying by bank transfer the amount received after either the deduction of bank fees or for the conversion to pounds sterling, must not be less than the sterling amount payable on the invoice.

Commission bids Commission bids are confidential and will be executed at no extra charge. Kerry Taylor auctions endeavours to purchase lots as cheaply as possible, allowing for other bids and the reserves. absentee bidding forms can be found at the back of the catalogue and should be completed and faxed at the number shown at the front of the catalogue. Please do not post in commission bid slips. it is in your interests to return your form as soon as possible as if two or more bidders submit identical bids for a lot, the first bid received takes preference. all bids should be received at least 24 hours before the start of the sale. it is your responsibility to check with us that your bid has been received. if you have never bid with Kerry Taylor auctions before (even though you may be a past sotheby’s client) you must also provide proof of identity. failure to do this may result in your bids not being processed. successful commission bidders will be notified by email immediately after the sale or you can phone us. full payment must be sent to the auctioneers.

Bidding in Person To bid with us you must register to obtain a bidding number. Before the auction, fill in the form at the registration desk, provide proof of identity and you may be given a paddle number. all lots sold will be invoiced to the name and address in which the paddle has been registered and may not be transferred to other names and addresses. if you instruct an agent to bid on your behalf you will need to provide a letter of authority and they will also need to provide proof of identity. Kerry Taylor auctions reserves the right to refuse. Please hand back the paddle after use.

DEsiGn anD ProDUCTion Jamm Design Ltd www.jammdesign.co.uk

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VEnUE, sToraGE, CoLLECTion anD shiPPinG LoGisTiCs

on receipt of cleared funds, lots can be collected (see map above) during the auction or immediately after its completion. Lots will be available to collect between the hours of 9.30am - 5pm. after a period of 14 days following the auction, uncollected lots will additionally incur a storage charge of £3.50 per lot per week (or part thereof ) and storage insurance at a rate of 1% of the purchase price per lot per week (or part thereof ). Purchases can be collected in person from Kerry Taylor’s premises or by the buyer’s authorised agent or shipper. Bullit Courier Company are our appointed shippers. They can supply competitive worldwide quotations for the packing and shipping of purchases using fedEx and will also offer a cost effective registered post service for UK clients with shipment values of less than £1,000. They can also assist in the application for any export licence should they be required. Buyers are reminded that it is their resposibility to comply with UK export regulations and with any local import requirements.

Kerry Taylor auctions Ltd 249-253 Long Lane London sE1 4Pr

Bullit Courier Company Tel: 00 44 (0)845 226 8556 email: info@bullitcouriers.com attention Mr Gary Martin

Tel: 00 44 (0)208 676 4600 fax: 00 44 (0)203 137 0112 email:info@kerrytaylorauctions.com

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Kerry Taylor Auctions  

Passion for Fashion 25th June 2012

Kerry Taylor Auctions  

Passion for Fashion 25th June 2012