CONTENTS
3-15 MAcollection:'Mercury,Interrupted.'
15-20 ProjectPromis3
20-22 NadavPerlman
23-25 FeaturesandCollaborations:Outtakes
26-33 BACollections
I.'Mercury, Interrupted.'II. Promis3III. Nadav Perlm an
IV. FeaturesV. CollaborationsVI. BA Collections
'Mercury, Interrupted.' 2023
1.Pattern-making
2.Print design
3.Handcrafted, wearable Sculptures
4.Concept management
5.Image directory
6.Collection development
Reference: Aouatif Boulaich (mentor) aouatif.boulaich@hogent.be
It’s important to mention that I was responsible for all aspects of this project, including design, development, photography, direction and production.
I graduated cum laude from the Royal School of Arts in 2023 with my MA-collection titled 'Mercury, Interrupted.'
On a technical level, this collection showcases multiple skills and creative facets. Pattern-making being one of them, I am experienced in detailed tailoring including print-design and made-to-measure garments which was important for this collection. My expertise in tailoring spans both men's and women's styles, blending classic craftsmanship with a nuanced understanding of fit, structure, and silhouette. In this case, a collection that showcases trans-femininity.
Designing & producing durable prints requires experienced familiarity with Adobe software and material knowledge such as fabrics and printing techniques.
In addition to garment construction, I explored hand-sculpted, wearable pieces and accessories, which pushed the collection into a more three-dimensional realm. This sculptural approach allowed me to express my craftsmanship and passion for tactile design. My inspiration was drawn from art nouveau objects, natural rock and shell formations and the Icelandic landscape by example. All of which informed the textural and sculptural elements of the collection.
On a conceptual level, Mercury, Interrupted embodies the alchemical transformation process, interpreted through the lens of queer and transgender identity as an invocation and placeholder of the fluid self in transition as ritualistic practice, invoking transition as transitory. My work is deeply inspired by mythology, classical narratives, and esotericism, and these influences shaped the storytelling and symbolism embedded throughout the collection.
In the following pages, I will explore how these themes unfolded in the design process in summary, both visually and conceptually.
chapter I: 'Nigredo'
In summary, Nigredo represents the initial chaos and blackening of the sun. The concept of prima materia (first matter) inspired the collection, drawing on the textures of volcanic landscapes and darkened materials. The neckpiece below references the planetary symbol of Saturn in its shape and incorporates pyrite, also known as "fool's gold." Since the alchemical process aims to produce gold, this piece metaphorically reflects the primal stage of transformation.
This stage is personified by the figure of Lilith, representing darkness and femininity, relating to the trans feminine experience. Fire also plays a significant role in this phase of the alchemical process, which is reflected in the printed materials, sculpted accessories and shoes.
#001 fool’s gold /Saturn’s sigil neckpiece
ouroboros dress/hood #003 lead and sulfur printed stockings/gloves/shoes #004 hermetic vessel braces
womb purse
#008 lead and sulfur printed / sculpted shoes
#006 lead and sulfur printed top / draped skirt
#006
#007
Vision of the hermaphrodite / Chymical wedding armor
From the Sketchbook: Ideas in Progress
Sketchbook pages that provide insight into the inspiration, research and development of the project.
Carefully curated moodboards, research, and visual studies that support the project's development and concept.
chapter II: 'Albedo'
Albedo marks the second stage of the alchemical process, often called "whitening." After the burning and blackening phase, water comes in to wash and purify, symbolizing new life. This stage is all about transformation and purification, which inspired both the print and silhouette in this design, mimicking the shape of a chalice.
The figure of Mercury, known as liquid silver in alchemy, is fluid and hermaphroditic by nature, which led to the creation of the argent vive print and color palette. Virgo, ruled by Mercury, symbolizes innocence and maidenhood, influencing the silhouette and veiled look of the first. The second silhouette draws more from Roman depictions of Mercury, embodying the idea of the vessel and the journey toward becoming the "divine hermaphrodite"—the ultimate goal of alchemical transformation. Both represent ideas on trans femininity throughout the alchemical process.
A Segment of My Thesis in this chapter
#013
sculpted chalice
Print and fabric design
This print is a key example from the collection, inspired by the idea of connecting the body to textured, natural formations within the alchemical process.
In this case, the inspiration came from whitening light, liquid silver, the shape of a chalice, and the iridescent colors of mother-of-pearl shells.
The design of the print shaped the dress’s form and patterning.
I have extensive experience with Adobe, enabling me to produce and edit my own photographic work independantly
Visual Media Direction and Assistance
Sculptural Footwear Creations
For this collection, I sculpted shoes. This pair in particular was inspired by figural Art Nouveau nautilus lamps.
#012 vessel of purification printed tights/gloves #010 sculpted Mother of Pearl skirt
#011
nautilus lamp slingback heels
Chapter III: Rubedo
Rubedo, the final stage of the alchemical process, symbolizes the culmination of transformation —often referred to as "reddening" or "yellowing."
This stage represents the completion of the alchemist’s work, the creation of the philosopher’s stone, which is believed to bring enlightenment, symbolised by the inherently queer 'Rebis' (double-thing)
In this collection, Rubedo is visualized through the use of septarian stones, a unique mineral known for its striking patterns and connectivity to Mercury.
These stones inspired the print used for this chapter, embodying the culmination of the transformative journey as well as connecting matter to spirit.The bright yellows and reds in this stage reflect the alchemical goal of turning base matter into gold, symbolizing inner transformation and the discovery of one's true self, always becoming.
#014
Culmination of the stone sculpted two-piece #015
sculpted septaria slingback heels #016 printed septarian stone tights #017 septarian stone nails
#018
Culmination of the stone printed dress #017 sculpted septaria slingback heels #018 printed culmination of the stone tights/top #019 sculpted septaria droplet earrings #020 printed culmination of the stone headscarf
#017
sculpted septaria slingback heels
Project Promis3 2021-2024
For three years, I have worked with Promis3, contributing to various projects and live performances as a costume-maker, stylist, and image director. My role involved crafting cohesive visual aesthetics that supported the artists' vision, movements and performance dynamics, ensuring that the costumes were not only visually striking but also keeps in mind their purpose. With the work experience I gained, I can say I have the necessary skills for costume work for performative arts as I have taken part in and co-produced performative works over the years.
Working within a small, dynamic team also honed my skills in directing, communication, and collaboration. In addition, I expanded my role by assisting and directing photo and video shoots, which strengthened my organizational abilities, deadline management, and creative problem-solving. Each project was an opportunity to bring both creativity and functionality to life while ensuring the execution of high-quality results and important deadlines.
1. Pattern-making 2. Performance experience 3.Handcrafted, wearable Sculptures 4. Concept management 5. Image directory 6. Photo/video-shoot experiences 7. Props, set, make-up & prosthetics
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tIcEloAjio&ab_channel=Promis3
(a.)
(b.)
a.) Image direction 'Night fever'
b.) Dour 2023 custom corset
c.) Dour 2023 sculpted mic-stand
d.) Dour 2023 Prosthetic sculpting
e.) Dour 2024 Image direction & styling
Worked closely with Nadav Perlman, an emerging fashion brand in Antwerp, on the development of the Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
Contributed to the creation of six original pieces, beginning with pattern work and continuing through the organization of production materials, technical drawings, and the preparation of comprehensive tech packs for manufacturers.
This role involved a deep engagement with the technical side of fashion design, ensuring each piece aligned with the brand’s aesthetic vision and met the necessary production standards from concept through completion.
Reference: Nadav Perlman (CEO) n.w.perlman@gmail.com
An example of one of the pieces developed for the Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
Much of the technical work involved detailed technical work, balancing practicality with creative design elements.
The process often included working with existing toiles, sketches, and directions, or translating the head designer’s drapings into precise, production-ready patterns
Emma Bale
Rock Werchter - 2022
I have worked as a costume designer for musical performances, collaborating with artists for festivals and concerts. My approach focuses on tailoring designs to reflect each artist's unique style, needs, and vision. For example, I designed a custom outfit for Belgian singer Emma Bale, specifically for her performance at the Rock Werchter Festival.
Drag Race Belgique Season 1 2023
Another example of my work as a costume designer is the promotional look I created for Drag Couenne, the winner of Season 1 of Drag Race Belgique.
Designing for the drag world was a unique experience compared to my other projects, as it required different qualifications in terms of movement, creativity and expression.
featured in @officialglitchmag's ISSUE001ERR1:DNA,incollaboration with photographer Sieme Hermans.
BA-collections
2020-2021
This menswear collection, created during the third year of studies amid the Covid pandemic, draws inspiration from the mythic classical story of Hylas and the water nymphs. It features studies of fabric manipulations, including embroidery and print. The exploration of where Hylas’s figure ends and where the nymphs who lure him to the water begin offers a compelling perspective on the gendering of clothing and narrative storytelling.
Initial sketch to final garments as an example of the designprocess.
Initial sketch to final
Inmyowncreativepractice, I merge the techniques of traditional menswear and womenswear, crafting garments that explore and celebrate the fluidity of
Embroidery inspired byRenéLaliqueonthe back panel of a men's dressshirt.
This piece showcases the reinterpretation of the initial sketch through the lens of men's tailoring. The golden velvet train is crafted from men's dress pants and details, blending elements of the fin de siècle era with contemporary studies on dress pant patterns and fitting. This fusion of styles creates a unique dialogue between historical influences and ideas on gendered garments.
This collection dives into the concept of reflectiveness, capturing the essence of 'giving light' and astral energy.
It explores the interplay between virtual reality and our internet-driven experiences, often steeped in solitude.
The designs act as mirrors to the surrounding world, serving as a defense mechanism that encourages grounding in a time of relentless stimuli.
With a deep knowledge of historical costumes, I draw inspiration from centuries of sartorial heritage, infusing my work with details and textures that honour fashion’s past and present.
