Jack Baron Architecture - Context Studies

re\source studio 22 LSBU PG(Dip) Architecture

CONTEXTUAL ANALYSIS

OLD KENT ROAD

2014/15

A SURVEY OF THE AGE OF BUILDINGS ALONG THE OLD KENT ROAD AND THE HISTORIC LAYERS AROUND IT

Book designer, author and editor - Jack Baron © Jack Baron, 2015. All rights reserved.

Printed in United Kingdom.

All photographs and graphics were taken and produced by Jack Baron (unless otherwise stated.)

All historic photographs courtesy of ‘London Metropolitan Archives’ (unless otherwise stated.)

CONTENTS:

Chapter 1: Foreword 1.1: Foreword 1.2: Introduction 1.3: Sustainability

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Chapter 2: Roman & Medieval Period

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Chapter 3: Tudor Period

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Chapter 4: Stuart Period

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Chapter 5: Georgian Period

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Chapter 6: Regency Period

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Chapter 7: Victorian Period

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Chapter 8: Modern Period

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Chapter 9: Summary 1.1: Findings 1.2: Time-line 1.3: Conclusion 1.4: Bibliography

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CHAPTER 1:

FOREWORD

FOREWORD:

English Heritage

“London’s historic environment is a precious, but fragile inheritance. In 1991, in response to rising public concern that so many historic buildings were threatened by redundancy, neglect and dilapidation, English Heritage published its first Register of Buildings at Risk in Greater London. Almost 1,000 listed buildings were identified as being at risk. 20 years later.

94%

of all the buildings on that first register have been repaired, restored and brought back into use. The Register has been a resounding success – helping both English Heritage and the London Boroughs to identify priorities for action and paving the way for our national Heritage at Risk campaign. The Mayor of London has recognised its importance and encouraged the London Boroughs to put forward eligible listed buildings at risk from the Register for funding to create new homes.

Above: Baroness Andrews (OBE Chair English Heritage) Below: © English Heritage

In 2010, as we face a prolonged period of unprecedented financial restraint, it is vital that we make best use of existing resources. Adapting historic buildings to new uses is inherently sustainable and makes sound economic and environmental sense, not least by reusing the embodies energy they contain. Thus we can make maximum future use of the legacy we have inherited from the past.

Today it seems inconceivable that spectacular buildings, like Strawberry Hill or Danson House, or national monuments like the Albert Memorial or Wellington Arch, could ever have been at risk; but they were. It is crucial that we learn from the experience of the last 20 years and work together to identify buildings in danger of becoming at risk, and then get them off the Register, repaired and back in to use, so that they can be used and enjoyed by both present and future generations.”

Baroness Andrews - OBE Chair English Heritage.

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80%

of the building stock we will be using in 30 years time exists today

24%

of all listed buildings at risk are in public ownership.

24%

of all waste comes from the demolition and construction industry.

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INTRODUCTION:

The Old Kent Road, formally known as ‘Kent Street’ until the mid 19th Century, forms part of the London to Dover trunk route (the A2) and runs from the Bricklayers Arms to New Cross Gate within the Borough of Southwark. The road closely follows the medieval pilgrim’s route to Canterbury, one of their watering holes along the journey is said to have been the Thomas A Becket public house, rebuilt in the 1890s on the same site.

Largely passing through fields until the 19th Century, building occurred in irregular spurts along the Old Kent Road from the early 1800s with a diverse mix of elegant Georgian terraces and villas together with much cheaper housing and factories (particularly textiles and chemicals).

A small number of the original late Georgian properties have survived against the combined odds of redevelopment throughout a rich history during the Victorian era, 20th Century and even the devastating bombing during World War II. Most of the historic valued buildings along Old Kent Road are Local Listed (many are Grade II listed) but some of which are worthy of listing, and would be in other areas of London, however for some reason or another have not been. However, the planning authorities of today are still aware these buildings hold significant historic value, therefore would still encourage the continued use of these important buildings.

In the last forty years the Old Kent Road has experienced a sorry period of decline, both in terms of economic vitality and quality of townscape. This period has seen a tragic destruction of architectural heritage and its replacement with very poor quality development which has severely eroded the character of this key thoroughfare.

The aim of this study is to investigate the age of buildings and historical layers along the Old Kent Road, and to evaluate their historical significance and townscape merit which they contribute. The study should reveal what types of building have survived throughout the years, including economic change and even bomb damage during WWII. This information will be of key importance in enhancing the character of area, whilst reducing the use of new material resources and energy as part of any new development proposals.

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SUSTAINABILITY:

The redundancy and recycling of buildings has always been a part of social, economic and cultural change, but since 1991 there has been a much greater awareness of the opportunities which historic buildings can offer. Many are now snapped up by developers and effectively recycled through market forces, although unfortunately the view that historic buildings are obstacles to urban renewal is still commonplace amongst many involved in the regeneration process.

Replacing a building demands a considerable investment of energy: the energy embodied in the old building will be lost, and more will be used in its demolition and in the manufacture and transportation of replacement materials and reconstruction.

It is usually much more efficient to retain the existing building, particularly when its energy performance is good, or where it can easily be improved. Retaining old buildings, and seeking to enhance their energy performance in benign ways rather than replacing them is not just good heritage conservation practice, but also brings wider sustainability benefits. We need to start managing the built environment in a way which will nurture and enhance the investment of previous generations, not squander it. Action to address Heritage at Risk should form an integral part of all London Boroughs’ strategies. It is essential for a sustainable future and successful place making.

The challenge for the future is to avoid buildings becoming derelict and escalating repair costs by anticipating change. We need to understand which buildings can last, and why they do so.

Lessons can be learnt for any future proposals, to create architecture which can adapt to prolong their lifetime.

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43AD - 15C

CHAPTER 2:

ROMAN & MEDIEVAL PERIODS

Watling Street is the name given to an ancient track in England and Wales that was first used by the Britons mainly between the modern cities of Canterbury and St Albans.

The Romans later paved the route, part of which is identified on the Antonine Itinerary as Iter III: “Item a Londinio ad portum Dubris” – from London to the port of Dover (via Canterbury).

The name derives from the Old English Waecelinga Straet, being named after the Waeclingas tribe, which occupied the regio or territory around St Albans during the early medieval period Originally the word “street” simply meant a paved road (from Latin: “via strata”), and did not have the modern English-language association with populated areas.

During Medieval times, St. Thomas was the first watering and resting locations along the Kent Road for the Pilgrims on route to Canterbury. (This location is now where sits the Thomas A Becket Pub.)

1485 - 1603

CHAPTER 3:

TUDOR PERIOD 1539 - Vicar of Wandsworth hung drawn and quartered at St Thomas, denying Henry VIII’s supermacy over Rome in regard to faith in England.

1603 - 1714

CHAPTER 4:

STUART PERIOD 1660 - Charles II returned to London via the Kent Road on his restoration.

1714 - 1811

CHAPTER 5:

GEORGIAN PERIOD 1740 - Last use of gallows at St Thomas 1796 - ‘World Turned Upside Down’ (145 Old Kent Road) was established 1796 - ‘Kentish Dovers’ established 1807 - ‘Deaf & Dumb’ Asylum founded

1807-1940s Date opening to date closed

TRANSPORT:

Grand Surrey Canal

The Grand Surrey Canal, originally named the Kent and Surrey Canal, was a canal constructed in south London, England during the early 19th century. It opened to the Old Kent Road in 1807, to Camberwell in 1810 and to Peckham in 1826. Its main cargo was timber. The canal transformed the area because barges bought in material which could be used in industry so the area was covered with streets, houses and industrial buildings. With the working class and industry houses moving in, the middle class moved out and the population increased.

It closed progressively from the 1940s, with all but the Greenland Dock closing in the 1970s.

Much of the route is traceable, as it has been turned into linear parks and many of the old bridges remain. London’s docks were rationalised in 1908, with the formation of the Port of London Authority. The canal was managed as part of Surrey Docks, and although there were few changes to its operation, it became known as the Surrey Canal.

Above: Historic photograph of canal after war © London Metropolitan Archives Below: Historic photograph of canal after war © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Historic photograph of canal © London Metropolitan Archives

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The surrounding industrial buildings suffered a lot of damage in WWII, during the Blitz and The Canal declined further until it close in March, 1971 when it was drained and filled in. One member of the community said that “once it stopped being a canal, it was horrible.” There were several reasons why the Council decided to cover the canal - it was dirty and polluted so expensive to maintain, it was dangerous and the Surrey Docks had closed so it wasn’t needed for industry anymore.

The former Camberwell Basin and the final 0.9 miles (1.4 km) now form part of the site of Burgess Park (the terminus was where the tennis courts are now located). Most of the Peckham branch, including its bridges and walls, is now a green walk. Peckham library has been built over the terminal basin and there is still a timber yard nearby which gives a hint of the past.

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1796 Date Built

WORLD TURNED UPSIDE DOWN

145 Old Kent Road

‘The World Upside Down’ was one of the oldest inns along the Old Kent Road, first established in 1796. This building has built in 1856.

This building has reformed many times throughout the years, first in 1856, then again in 1868 when the original sign-board was blown down and then a few years later the building was part rebuilt with an additional one and half floor levels of accommodation.

At ground floor level, the inn finally closed in 2009 and replaced with a pizza takeaway branch.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building (1910) © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page (Top): Current photograph of building (Dated 2014) Opposite Page (Bottom): Historic photograph of building (2008) © London Metropolitan Archives

267m

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Building Footprint

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1811-1835

CHAPTER 6:

REGENCY PERIOD 1811- Surrey Canal opened (crossed Kent Road at Canal Bridge) 1827 - Licensed Victualler’s Asylum founded 1833 - ‘South Metropolitan Gasworks’ opened (coal supplied by canal)

1800 Date Built

THE WHITE HOUSE

155 Old Kent Road

No.155 Old Kent Road was a detached villa built in 1800, and now sandwiched between two much larger residential apartment blocks of the later 19th century.

This building also has a classical appearance, with stucco rendered finish and large overhanging eaves to a slate roof. However, in comparison to some of the other original properties, is less elegant with no fluted pilasters detailing.

At some point over the years, the building has changed use from a large residential dwelling to a religious church. The additional signage to the principle elevation is the only modification made to the appearance of the building, except there does appear to be an additional floor space added. The historic archive photograph shows the original dwelling to be two-story with a lowpitched roof. However in the more recent photograph opposite, it shows the roof pitch has been increased to accommodate an additional floor level with projecting dormers either side of the building.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building Š London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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Building Footprint

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1815 Date Built

PRIVATE HOUSING

864-866 Old Kent Road

No. 864 - 866 Old Kent Road are a pair of semi-detached villas built in 1815 by John Lamb, a local timber merchant. These Georgian style villas are very similar to No. 880, 882 & 884, upon the opposite side of the railway line, which cuts through Old Kent Road.

These villas are also stucco rendered finish, and have giant fluted pilasters topped by ammonites capitals and large overhanging eaves to the slate finish roof. However unlike No. 880, 882 & 884, these villas have managed to retain their original appearance and use as residential properties. Their iron gated private front gardens have been preserved and maintained in great condition.

These semi-detached villas do make one wonder why these have managed to survive in their original state, whilst others have given in to mixed-use redevelopment. I believe their location, enclosed by the railway line and the neighbouring park means isolates the site from commercial interest.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building Š London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

122m

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Building Footprint

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1815 Date Built

PRIVATE HOUSING

880,882 & 884 Old Kent Road

No. 880, 882 & 884 are identical Georgian properties, built in 1815. The elevational appearance has a very classical stucco rendered finish with giant pilasters and an anthemion frieze below the cornice line.

As seen in the historic archive photograph below, the properties originally had a stone effect applied to the ground floor and basement floor levels. These dwellings would also have been set away from the public footpath with small front gardens.

However, it in the later 19th century retail units were added to the ground floor, replacing the former front gardens, with shop fronts facing directly onto the street (as seen in the photograph opposite.) Even though these dwellings could have continued as solely for residential use, I believe these additional ground floor commercial units were to maximise the development potential of the site, as with many other examples along Old Kent Road.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building Š London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

140m

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Building Footprint

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1816 Date Built

LIME KILN & ‘BRIDGE TO NO-WHERE’

Burgess Park

Above: Photograph of ‘Bridge to nowhere’ (Dated 2014) Opposite Page: Photograph of Burgess Park Lime Kiln (Dated 2014)

There are a few structures within the park which have been heritage listed. These buildings are remnants of the streets which once occupied the site: a lime kiln, the library, baths and wash houses and the former almshouses in Chumleigh Gardens. There are also several bridges, which once used to cross the former canal. These are important in preserving the rich history of the site.

Originally set beside the Grand Surrey Canal, which was in as part of the creation of Burgess Park in Camberwell, the Burgess Park Lime Kiln was in use until the 1960s, when raw materials were unloaded directly from boats onto the wharves along the canal. The Lime Kiln is now Grade II listed.

It was built in 1816 by builders’ suppliers Edward R Burtt & Sons. Coal and limestone brought along the canal by Thames barge were burnt in the kiln for 3 days to produce quicklime, which was then reloaded onto barges for distribution. Quicklime was a key ingredient of mortar for houses and fertilizer for agriculture. As ‘limelight’ it was used to illuminate Victorian theatres.

Burtt’s premises extended to Albany Road, and the kiln was in continuous use until 1925.

In 2002, it was lovingly restored by Groundwork Southwark. Local schools & community groups helped reveal its story in paving which you can still read at your feet as you circle the kiln.

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1820 Date Built

SOUTH METROPOLITAN GASWORKS

709 Old Kent Road

There are two gas holders built in the 1970’s which still remain in use. These are the remains of the former South Metropolitan Company which was based at the gas works along the Old Kent Road, that date back from the late 1820s.

From the 1840s it had been managed by members of the Livesey family, first Thomas, and then his son George. When East Greenwich gas works was built George Livesey was the Chairman of the company – perhaps unusually for a company chairman his first job had been as a fourteen year old Office boy at the Old Kent Road gas works.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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This is not, however, the site on which the works which opened in 1833 since successive land sales have moved it considerably to the east. ‘Peckham New Town’ shown on a map of the early 1840s, showing a settlement which was eventually to be completely engulfed by the gas works.

Although the canal is now a distant memory the road layout remains much the same today.

The Surrey Canal once crossed Old Kent Road slightly east of Verney Street but remains of it are increasingly hard to find. Hidden among the light industry is a terrace of pretty Georgian cottages – Canal Grove – and in 1830 they stood alone by the canal, by the main road, opposite the Kent Pond.

The Old Kent Gas works was built alongside the canal, and the cottages rented by the company for their employees housing. The gas works straggled out along the canal and a triangle was filled with little streets. Backing onto the works was Caroline Street where a mission stood, frequented by gas workers, it was to become today’s Sandgate Street. Another road completed a triangle from Old Kent Road - Church Road - going to Christ Church built in 1838 immediately opposite the gas works at the end of Caroline Street. To the south east of these streets was a large piece of vacant land into which the gas works was eventually to move.

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1827-1866 Date Built to Change of Use

VICTUALLERS’ ASYLUM

(Now Caroline Gardens)

Caroline Gardens Chapel, in Peckham, forms the heart of London’s largest grandiose complex of almshouses originally known as the Licenced Victuallers’ Benevolent Institution Asylum, founded in 1827.

However, despite being called an “asylum”, the grade-II-listed site was not a home for lunatics.

Instead, the word was used in its older sense of sanctuary and it was in fact an old folks’ home for retired pub landlords (or “decayed members of the trade” as they were known at the time).

The welfare state still being over 100 years in the future, almshouses were an important part of life, offering impoverished Georgian and Victorian elderly people the only alternative to destitution or the workhouse. Residents were entitled to a small weekly cash payment, coal, medical care and medicine.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Opposite Page (Top): Historic photograph of building © www.asylumlondon.org Opposite Page (Bottom): Current photograph of building (Dated 2014) Next Page: Photograph of internal exhibition space © www.asylumlondon.org

The popularity of the asylum was such that by 1927 there were more than 200 residential sites there, having started with only 27, and with all applications now being vetted to decide whom was most entitled to a spot. The driving force behind the asylum was Joseph Proud Hodgson, a distiller from Finsbury who led the consortium which purchased the six acres of land on which the first stone was laid by the Duke of Sussex.

In 1858 the Albert Wing was added, and opened by the Prince Consort himself, adding 31 more dwellings. As a result, a 16ft statue of Albert was unveiled in the middle of the lawn outside. It was unveiled in 1864 by the Prince of Wales after Albert’s death in 1861.

The ornate buildings took eighteen years to construct, each block began to take in people as it was completed, with the entire complex being completed in 1866, including a chapel whose stained glass windows depicted events in the life of Christ. The finished institution was the largest of its type in London.

The central chapel in particular was worst hit and with funding at something of a low, the owners were unable fully to restore it following World War II. By 1960 the brewing industry decided that the complex no longer met their purpose, more because they needed to expand the site further and the scope was not there in the Asylum Road site. Instead they took their operation off to Denham in Buckinghamshire, selling the buildings to Camberwell Council.

The board of management decided that it preferred the new site in Buckinghamshire and, in 1959, the last tenants moved to Denham, along with the statue of Prince Albert. The asylum was sold to LB Southwark in 1960, which to this day uses it as social housing. Southwark renamed it Caroline Gardens after Caroline Secker, a former resident and widow of James Secker, who was the marine in the Battle of Trafalgar (1805) said to have caught Nelson when he fell.

Although the cottages are still in use, the chapel was never really used again. In 1960, the local paper described how it was to become “a little theatre”. However, this did not come to pass.

In 2010 Jo Dennis and Dido Hallett started using the space for art projects, exhibitions, theatre productions and shoots. In 2013 they signed a 12 years lease for the building. Jo and Dido currently run ‘Asylum’ as it is now known, as a flexible project space and have also had it licensed for weddings.

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1835-1901

CHAPTER 7:

VICTORIAN PERIOD Kent Road become known as Old Kent Road.

1838 - ‘Christ Church’ built on Ruby Street 1844 - ‘Bricklayers Arms Railway Station’ opened 1852 - ‘Bricklayers Arms Railway Station’ closed 1856 - ‘Old Dun Cow’ opened (279 Old Kent Road) 1866 - ‘Old Kent Road railway station opened 1868 - ‘Christ Church’ closed and reopened south side of Old Kent Road 1890- ‘Livesey Museum’ opened

1840 Date Built

THE KENTISH DROVERS

Former Public House, 720 Old Kent Road

The former Kentish Drovers Public House, No. 720 Old Kent Road, is located at the junction with Commercial Way opposite the gasworks. This Grade II listed early Victorian building was built in 1840.

The original appearance would have been very similar to many of the Victorian public houses along Old Kent Road with a brick finish. However at some point during the years this has been painted cream, most likely to match the stucco render finished buildings further along Old Kent Road.

The building does have an unusual mural above the first floor windows following the curve around the corner of the building, depicting part of former natural landscape of ‘The Peck.’

During it’s lifetime, the building has been used as a nightclub and now a restaurant.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Photograph of historic mural © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

325m

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Building Footprint

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1840 Date Built

PRIVATE HOUSING

541-549 Old Kent Road

No. 541- 549 Old Kent Road is an elegant early Victorian terrace (c1840s) of five properties.

This terrace is an example of valuable historic building that has no heritage protection and which merit consideration for local or statutory listing.

Over the years, it appears the window frames have been replaced most unsympathetically with bulky upvc, which is most inappropriate.

The properties do however retain the full length cast-iron balustrade, forming a balcony to the piano nobile 1st floor. This is an distinctive feature of the properties and provides additional amenity shared between the residents.

The properties are 3-storey with a basement level unseen from the street-scene.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building Š London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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Building Footprint

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1844-1983 Date opening to date closed

TRANSPORT:

The Bricklayers Arms Railway Station

Below: Bricklayers Arms Railway Station Š www.victorianlondon.org.

Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

Bricklayers Arms Station was opened by the South Eastern Railway in 1844 at the northern end of the Old Kent Road (close to the foot of the fly-over of the same name built in the 1960s), on a short branch from their mainline because the company wished to avoid excessive charges at London Bridge station. However its site proved so inconvenient to passengers that regular passenger services ceased in 1852 and the station was converted into a goods depot and carriage sidings, later greatly enlarged.

The goods yard closed in 1962 but a parcels depot remained on this site until it was demolished in 1983. The site of the depot was redeveloped in the 1990s as a light industrial estate / business park served by Mandela Way. The only original feature remaining, is four sandstone gate piers at the site entrance.

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1856 Date Built

THE DUN COW

Former Public House, 279 Old Kent Road

Throughout the years, the excellent public transport and the increasing density of the residential neighbourhoods either side of the Old Kent Road have contributed to it’s growth as a popular destination. In relation to this, during the Victorian and Edwardian periods, there were many public houses being built all along Old Kent Road.

During the inter-war periods, many of these were rebuilt, such as The Dun Cow. This former public house was built in 1856, located at the junction of the Old Kent Road and Dunton Road.

This historic building was restored in 2004 throughout to it’s former glory, and changed use from a public house to a doctor’s surgery.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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Building Footprint

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1867 Date Built

THE DUKE OF KENT

Former Public House, 365 Old Kent Road

No.365 Old Kent Road was formally the Duke of Kent public house up until 1979.

The building became vacant until it was converted into the ‘Old Kent Road Mosque & Islamic Cultural Centre.’ For some cultures, the thought of a pub being used for religious purposes would be opposed. However, Old Kent Road has an increasing population of different cultures and religions. Therefore there is an increasing demand for accommodation for religious purposes.

Most of the public houses built within the Victorian and Edwardian periods, are now closing along Old Kent Road and are looking for possible conversion. The size and prominent location of the former Duke of Kent suitable accommodates the Mosque.

There are very minor details which have been added, such as the internal window surrounds, to provide an indication of the change of use. However it will be difficult to make any external alterations to represent the new use without jeopardising the former heritage associated with the building.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

223m Building Footprint

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1868 Date Built

OAKLEY PLACE WESLEYAN

Methodist Chapel, Old Kent Road

There are two religious buildings along and just off from Old Kent Road which have historic importance to the area, even though neither have Local Listing Status protection.

The mid-Victorian Oakley Place Wesleyan Methodist Chapel sits just off from Old Kent Road, and now backs on to Burgess Park. Christ Church was built in 1868 by E Bassett Keeling, and is located further along Old Kent Road.

Even-though the chapel is now used for worship by a different denomination then it’s original intent, both of these historic buildings have been used for religious use throughout their lifetime.

There appears to be a strong requirement for religious buildings, due to the high number of different cultures along Old Kent Road. Therefore I believe, unlike some of the other building forms within this area, these buildings remain still today as their purpose for religious use is still required.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building Š London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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1868 Date Built

CHRIST CHURCH Old Kent Road

At the beginning of the 19th Century North Peckham was mostly fields and market gardens.

However with the opening of the Surrey Canal and the development of the South Metropolitan Gas Works the population began to grow. As a result a new parish was carved out of the parish of St. Giles Camberwell in 1837. In 1838 a church was built by the edge of the Canal at the end of Ruby Street, behind the present day Kentucky Fried Chicken. It was initially called St Thomas, but by 1842 the name had been changed to Christ Church.

The rapid expansion of the Gas Works led to the demolition of the original building after only 30 years, and in 1868 a new church was built on the present site on the Old Kent Road next to the Livesey Museum. It was designed by E Bassett Keeling and built in the amazingly short time of nine months.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building Š London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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In September 1941, the church was badly damaged by fire bombs. Apparently local people living in Ruby Street braved the flames, trying to rescue what they could from the fire, but much was destroyed and the church remained a ruin for fifteen years. Only the halls on the South Side and to the rear of the church could be used. A small congregation with a ruined building in a poor area could have been the end of Christ Church, however it was not. The local people were faithful and helped raised funds to rebuild the church with halls, kitchen etc. inside the original shell so that it could be easily adapted to the changing needs of the area.

In the last decade, the interior has been further modernised to provide a welcoming and comfortable space in which to meet.

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1879 Date Built

THE CORONET THEATRE

26-28 New Kent Road

The concert venue and nightclub which is today known as the Coronet Theatre, situated on the New Kent Road at Elephant and Castle in London, originally opened as the Elephant and Castle Theatre on the 31st of May 1879.

The site of the Theatre was a particularly tricky one for the architects but clever use of the space available enabled the foyers and box office to be squeezed in-between several houses and shops, fronting onto the New Kent Road, whilst the large auditorium and stage were situated much further back and reached through corridors, rather like Frank Matcham’s later Bristol Hippodrome.

The Theatre today does look very different to how it originally appeared but it is still an important building as it was the first major Theatre design by the now renowned Architect Frank Matcham, who worked on the Theatre after its original architect Jethro T. Robinson (Matcham’s Father in Law) died during its construction.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page (Top): Current photograph of building (Dated 2014) Opposite Page (Bottom): Historic photograph of ABC Theatre © London Metropolitan Archives

Radically altered internally in 1932 the auditorium bears little resemblance to the original Matcham / Robinson designed auditorium of 1879, but much of the exterior, despite the 1960s cladding covering the facade, appears to be that of the earlier building.

The Theatre was reconstructed in 1882 and again in 1902, but Live theatre ceased in 1928 and the building was converted for full time Cinema use. The Elephant and Castle Theatre was by then standing opposite the much better equipped Trocadero Super Cinema of 1930. This major competition however, didn’t effect the old Theatre overly and when the Trocadero was demolished in 1963 the Elephant and Castle Theatre carried on regardless.

In 1967 the Cinema was renamed ABC and the facade was covered in blue sheet metal cladding, something it retains to this day unfortunately, although the earlier facade still exists underneath.

The conversion also included closing the circle and altering the stalls into a so called ‘luxury lounge cinema.’

In June 1986 the Cinema was taken over by the independent chain of Coronet Cinemas and renamed the Coronet Cinema. This lasted until the 23rd of September 1999 when it was closed.

The Theatre then remained empty for four years until a major £2m refurbishment programme was begun on the building. This included de-tripling the auditorium, restoring it’s 1920s internal decoration, reopening the original Gallery, and leveling the Stalls.

The all-new theatre represents a versatile, 21st century, state-of-the-art venue, adaptable for use, from small intimate comedy events to international awards, from intimate gigs to 1,960 stylish cabaret evenings to thumping club nights. The sheer versatility of The Coronet means it suitable for almost any type of event; live music performances, product launches, exhibitions, fashion shows, theatre, conferences and club nights. Day time hire can be used for video shoots, fashion shoots, rehearsal space, pre-production and casting suites.

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1880 Date Built

THE LORD NELSON

Public House, 386 Old Kent Road

The Lord Nelson Public House at the junction of the Old Kent Road and Trafalgar Avenue is an historic valued Grade II listed late Georgian building. The yellow stock brick sits above a highly detailed projecting ground floor adorned with fluted pilasters and bright pub signage.

Unlike many of the other Georgian buildings along Old Kent Road, this building has a distinctive bay window at first and second floor level.

This building remains in use throughout it’s lifetime, and continues to be used as a public house today. This building has many attributes to make a good pub. Firstly, it’s predominate corner location makes is highly visible along Old Kent Road. As no extensions have been made to the building, I can also presume each floor appears suitable in size for its intended purpose.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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1884 Date Built

MIXED-USE BUILDING

388 Old Kent Road

No. 388 Old Kent Road was built in 1884, and has important historical merit and townscape value. This great example of Victorian architecture reflects the typical palette of stock brick elevations with decorative stucco dressings and window surroundings, rusticated quoins, robust cornices and attractive roof-scapes of gables and chimneys.

Most of these fine mixed-use buildings have remained due to their lively ground floor retail, cafĂŠ or other commercial premises ensuring an active frontage to the street, with usually two or three floors of residential units above.

Many of these buildings have suffered from poor maintenance in the last 50 years. The shopfronts of the Victorian era would of consisted of bookmakers and carpenters, however these have gradually declined to fast-food outlets and convenience stores. These buildings work well as mixed-use properties, however the installation of more appropriate shop-fronts should be considered to retain the overall traditional appearance.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building Š London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

279m

2

Building Footprint

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1884 Date Built

MIXED-USE BUILDING

358-384 Old Kent Road

No. 358 - 384 Old Kent Road consists of an early Victorian terrace with ground floor retail units with 2-stories of residential accommodation over. Even though these properties are not listed, they still contribute important townscape value to the area.

Similar to No. 388, these properties are also reflect the typical palette of stock brick elevations with decorative stucco dressings and window surroundings.

These too have suffered from poor maintenance in recent years, and would benefit for renovation and installation of more appropriate shop-fronts to strengthen the overall traditional appearance.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building Š London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

143m

2

Building Footprint

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1890 Date Built

THE LIVESEY BUILDING

Former Library, Old Kent Road

The Livesey building was bequeathed by George Livesey, a local benefactor, to the Commissioners for Public Libraries and Museums for the Parish of Camberwell in 1890. It was given as a free public library and operated until 1966 when the then council relocated its library provision to a nearby site and the building closed to the public. It re-opened as the Livesey Museum for Children in 1974 until its closure in March 2008 as part of a wider programme of savings within the council, resulting in an annual saving of £140,000. Much of its work with younger children was taken on by the Cuming Museum, the borough’s main museum. The Cuming worked in partnership for many years with the Livesey Museum for Children.

The red brick building was erected in 1890 as Camberwell Public Library and was the gift of Sir George Livesey, once chairman of the South Metropolitan Gas Company and well-known philanthropist. In the 2nd World War the rear part of the building was irreparably damaged by bombing. The former news room was thereafter used as a lending library. The building was subsequently converted into a museum and opened by Sir John Betjeman in 1974. It was then after a fully interactive museum aimed at children under 12 years of age and their families until 2008.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Photograph of front elevation (Dated 2014) Opposite Page: Photograph of building entrance (Dated 2014)

201m

2

Building Footprint

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1898 Date Built

THE THOMAS A BECKETT

Public House, 320 Old Kent Road

The Thomas A Beckett Public House, No. 320 Old Kent Road, was built in 1898 by architect Richard Willock ARIBA and builder Patman & Fotheringham. It is located at the junction with Albany Road, overlooking the eastern entrance of Burgess Park.

This is another fine example of late Victorian pub architecture found along Old Kent Road.

However this building is more exuberant, with a corner dome feature, Jacobean style gables and a grand columned ground floor frontage.

The site itself is very rich in history, being located on a former watering hole for the medieval pilgrims on their way to Canterbury and later renowned boxing venue in the 1960s and 70s.

The building has now been converted into restaurant and bar / nightclub at ground floor, with an art gallery above. Logically these two different uses work well within the same building due to their differences in opening hours. This is a great example on how different uses can be located on top of each other without conflicting and should be considered elsewhere.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building Š London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

299m

2

Building Footprint

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“And forth we riden a little more than pas unto the watering of St Thomas And there our hoste began his hors’ arest” Extract from The Canterbury Tales by Geoffrey Chaucer at the end of the 14th Century.

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1903 Date Built

PASSMORE EDWARDS LIBRARY

Burgess Park

Passmore Edwards Library, Baths and Wash House opened in 1903 on the corner of Wells Way and Neate Street. Partly funded by Victorian philanthropist John Passmore Edwards, its aim was to improve the health and leisure of local working people in a busy industrial and residential area, at a time when many houses lacked bathrooms, clothes-washing facilities and books.

The ornate Grade II listed building was designed by Maurice Adams FRIBA and William Oxtoby AMICE, on land donated by the Rolls family (who later set up Rolls-Royce), and opened in 1903. The great Victorian philanthropist John Passmore Edwards contributed £24,000 for the library. The Baths and Washhouse entrances are on Wells Way, and the Library entrance on Neate Street, which is now incorporated into Burgess Park.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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Two Ionic columns elaborately carved with capitals embellished with cherubs and dangling bunches of fruit flank the porch the library entrance. Over each column the entablature (major elements of classical architecture and refering to the superstructure of mouldings and bands which lie horizontally above columns) breaks forward to support a kneeling figure flanking a tympanum (semi-circular or triangular decorative wall surface over an entrance, bounded by a lintel or arch) carved in high relief with standing putti supporting the coat-of-arms.

The library was built together with slipper baths and washhouse in 1903. The facilities were updated several times, but as the local population dwindled from the 1960s onwards with the creation of the park, the building closed some time in the 1980s. It’s still owned by Southwark Council, is Grade II listed, and parts of it are occupied by Lynn Boxing Gym and a church, but it’s somewhat under-used. We think it has great potential, and are working to bring it back into full use as a Park/Community facility

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1904 Date Built

FORMER FIRE STATION

306-312 Old Kent Road

The former fire station, No. 306 - 312 Old Kent Road, is a Grade II listed building dating from 1904, designed by the renowned London County Council Architects Department. The fire station was closed and relocated within a new building in the later 20th century.

The current building condition is very poor, as acknowledged by the English Heritage’s ‘Buildings At Risk’ Register and has been for many years. Despite its poor condition, it maintains a local landmark within a prominent corner location along the Old Kent Road. The elevations consist of red brick and portland stone dressings, tall stated mansards with gables of banded brick and stone.

Since the closure of the fire station, the building has been within private ownership. Only the ground floor has been converted into a large retail commercial unit (currently being used as an antique furniture outlet) whilst the upper floors are still within poor condition and unoccupied.

With the currently increasing demand for housing within this area, there will be a sympathetic conversion of the upper stories into apartments.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

310m Building Footprint

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1909-2015

CHAPTER 8:

MODERN PERIOD 1917 - Old Kent Road railway station closed 1930 - ‘Palasino Electric Theatre’ opened (593-597 Old Kent Road) 1930 - ‘World Turned Upside Down’ rebuilt 1937 - ‘Regal (ABC) Theatre’ was built 1941 - Bricklayers Arms goods depot was bombed 1953 - Old Kent Road Gasworks closed 1960 - Surrey Canal closed 1974 - ‘Bricklayers Arms Flyover’ was built 1974 - ‘Livesey Building’ became children’s museum 2004 - ‘Asda’ superstore opened

1910-1960 Date Built - Demolished

GLOBE THEATRE

Former Theatre, 59-61 Old Kent Road

The Globe Theatre opened in 1910 at the top of Old Kent Road. It was from the very start a building with significant aspirations. Contemporary advertisements proclaimed that the audience could ‘See the World at the Globe,’ and watch ‘Pictures from around the Globe.’ With a capacity of 930, it certainly provided ample space for locals to gather and experience the latest on-screen entertainment.

The Globe Cinema was closed on 6th February 1960 with Jock Mahoney in “The Land Unknown” and Eric Fleming in “Curse of the Undead”. It was later demolished and the site redeveloped.

Today the site bears no trace of its glamorous past. Located on the edge of the busy Bricklayers Arms roundabout, traffic sweeps past without a second glance at the current 1970’s office building.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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1930-1984 Date Built - Demolished

THE ASTORIA

Former Theatre, 593-597 Old Kent Road

The Astoria Theatre, the second of four Astoria cinemas built by the distinguished cinema architect Edward Albert Stone, opened on 10th February 1930 with a Maurice Chevalier film, “Innocents in Paris”, a Laurel & Hardy short “Two Tars” and a variety show on stage. The Astoria was notable for having its own resident orchestra and a lavish Art Deco interior with large landscapes painted on each side of the proscenium. The cinema’s capacity was 2,899, and also had a 150 seat café on a balcony level inside.

The Astoria was closed by the Rank Organisation on 29th June 1968, with another Laurel & Hardy film appropriately being one of its last projections. It was left dilapidated for a decade, before being converted first into ‘The Mad Dog Bowl’, Europe’s first indoor skate park, and then an unsuccessful sports centre.

It was demolished in October-November of 1984, the only one of the four Astorias to be flattened, and today a furniture store stands in its stead. A sign on its walls proudly proclaims its ability to provide ‘frustration free’ furniture, but it cannot hope to offer its customers a fraction of the delight and satisfaction supplied by its illustrious predecessor.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page (Top): Current photograph of building (Dated 2014) Opposite Page (Bottom): Historic photograph of indoor skate park © London Metropolitan Archives

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1930-1963 Date Built - Demolished

THE TROCADERO

Former Theatre, New Kent Road

The Trocadero Cinema was situated at the Elephant & Castle end of the New Kent Road, opposite the former Elephant & Castle Theatre, now the Coronet, and was built as a vast Super Cinema with stage facilities for the Hyams Brothers, opening in 1930.

The Theatre was designed by the architect George Coles. The Hyams Brothers would go on to run the nearby, and smaller, Troc-Ette Theatre on Tower Bridge Road in 1932, also designed

by George Coles. The Trocadero Theatre had a vast capacity of 3,500 and the largest Wurlitzer Organ to have been so far shipped to Europe.

Demolished for comprehensive redevelopment in 1963, the Trocadero was replaced three years later by a worthy successor, the Odeon. Built in boldly conceived concrete and the work of the Hungarian Modernist architect Erno Goldfinger, it too, in 1988, succumbed to the wrecker’s ball.’ The Odeon was itself demolished in 1988 and the office building converted into flats.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

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77

1939-1941 Bombs falling on London

LONDON BLITZ, WWII: Historical Event

The vitality of the Old Kent Road from its inter-war peak began to decline in the 1940s after it sustained heavy bombing, targeting the goods depot at Bricklayer’s Arms. The devastating extent of the bombing raids on the Old Kent Road is shown in this map opposite.

The Old Kent Road has been shown as a dashed line moving diagonally from the top left corner of the plan to the bottom right and the dotted markings indicate the bomb sites, which caused minor, major damage or total destruction.

The London Metropolitan Archives original records show the devastating impact when thousands of German bombers pounded London starting one day early in September 1940, in a campaign that lasted 76 consecutive nights: ‘the blitz.’

The map below indicates the total number of bombs throughout London.

Opposite Page: Map showing bomb sites during WWII Ariel photograph © Digital Globe Information via www.bombsight.org Below: Bomb sites throughout London Key: (Bombs per sq.m) 0-8 9-16 17-32 33-64 65-128 129-256

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1941

The Great London Plan

THE GREAT LONDON PLAN:

Summary

The Greater London Plan of 1944 was developed by Sir Leslie Patrick Abercrombie (18791957). The plan was directly related to the County of London Plan written by Abercrombie in 1943, with contributions by John Henry Forshaw (1895-1973). Following World War II, London was presented with an opportunity to amend the perceived failings of unplanned and haphazard development that had occurred as a result of rapid industrialisation in the nineteenth century.

During the Second World War, the blitz had destroyed large urban areas throughout the entire county of London, but particularly the central core. This presented the London City Council with a unique chance to plan and rebuild vacant tracts of the city on a scale not seen since the Great Fire of London.

Above: Patrick Abercrombie (Born 1879) Opposite Page: The Great London Plan © London Metropolitan Archives

“This is a plan for London. A plan for one of the greatest cities the world has ever known...

The plan provides for short-term needs and long-term possibilities, in order that urgent things may be so done that they form part of the whole conception, even if it may have to be modified as the future unfolds.” Lord Latham, Leader of London County Council.

50,000 homes 2million 5 issues

in inner London were completely destroyed

dwellings experienced some form of bomb damage.

facing London at the time whilst preparing the plan:

Population

Housing

Employment & Industry

Recreation

Transport

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THE GREAT LONDON PLAN:

Transport

143,877 3,084,896 in 1910

in 1940.

Total number of cars in Britain

Opposite Page: Public Trams along Old Kent Road in 1937 © London Metropolitan Archives

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Dwellings, industry and recreational spaces are all linked by transport within London.

Ensuring adequate levels of efficient transport were key to the Greater London Plan. Although transportation had rapidly changed throughout the 20th Century, the roadways had not. The number of cars in Britain had risen from 143,877 in 1910 to a staggering 3,084,896 in 1940.

This led to areas of mass congestion and an increase in transport related accidents. Abercrombie sought to improve traffic circulation via an American inspired separation of differing modes on a number of levels throughout the city. A series of main arterial and ring roads would also allow road users to avoid the most congested sections of the network. Rail transit in London was to be separated into differing passenger and commercial networks. However rail was privately owned, creating an environment whereby planning legislation had little effect on the operations of train companies. The River Thames was to be redefined as a focal point for the city, and it was hoped to maximise its potential as a trade and transport resource.

Old Kent road in particular has always been a major transport corridor served by ever improving communications from horse-buses through to trams up until the 1950’s, then the modern day public buses and cars.

The construction of the railways from the 1840s had a major influence upon the Old Kent Road with the opening of the Bricklayers Arms station goods depot in 1844 at the northern end of the road and the construction of the South London line that crosses the Old Kent Road just south of its junction with Ilderton Street. The road had its own railway station for just fifty years “Old Kent Road & Hatcham Station”, was located just to the west of the viaduct. Although the line still carries a frequent passenger service from London Bridge to Peckham and beyond, Old Kent Road & Hatcham Station was closed as a ‘temporary’ economy measure during the First World War in 1917 and never re-opened, most likely due to the stiff competition of the trams.

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1943

Date of Construction

THE GREAT LONDON PLAN:

Recreation (Burgess Park)

The development of open spaces was of high importance to Abercrombie in the Greater London Plan, recreation was seen as an essential part of life. All open spaces were to be retained, with particular significance given to the development of a ‘green belt’. A variety of open spaces was to be established, from city squares and formal gardens to more wild and picturesque parks. A series of parkways would be created, allowing residents to walk between the major open spaces unimpeded by traffic. It was hoped that for every 1000 city residents there would be four acres of accessible open space. Whereas in 1944, some boroughs experienced 0.1 acre of open space per 1000 inhabitants. Abercrombie acknowledges that London is far too dense to provide an appropriate level of open space for each resident, so it is proposed that improved transport will allow every inhabitant access to recreational areas outside of their immediate neighbourhood.

Above: Landscaped entrance at Burgess Park (Dated 2014) Below: View over lake at Burgess Park (Dated 2014) Opposite Page (Top): Historic aerial photograph (1945) © Bluesky / Getmapping plc.

Opposite Page (Bottom): Current aerial photograph (2014) © Bluesky / Getmapping plc.

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The idea for Burgess Park came out of the 1943 Abercrombie plan for open spaces in London. It was hoped this public park would provide a green lung for the London Borough of Southwark, in an area stretching from Camberwell and Walworth in the west to Peckham and the Old Kent Road in the east. At 56 hectares (140 acres), it is one of the largest parks in South London.

Unlike most other parks in London, Burgess Park was carved out of a highly built-up area of the city. Virtually all the land now occupied by the park was previously housing, industry and transport infrastructure and the Surrey Canal, many of which had suffered heavy bomb damage during WWII. The man-made lake was constructed in 1982, with what was the world’s largest plastic sheet lining. 12 million gallons of tap-water was to fill the lake, along with plenty of fish. Fishing on the lake is still popular today.

In 2012 Burgess Park re-opened after an £8m transformation, establishing it as a park central to the local community and recognised more widely for its heritage, sports facilities, lake, wildlife, design and horticultural excellence.

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1937-1974 Date Built - Demolished

THE REGAL THEATRE

Former Theatre, 810 Old Kent Road

On 18th January, 1937, a 2,474-seat cinema opened at the end of the Old Kent Road. It was the largest of the Associated British Cinema’s (ABC) London suburban cinemas, but had over 400 seats fewer seats than the nearby Astoria, and over 1,000 fewer than the Trocadero. Such impressive figures clearly demonstrate that there existed an overwhelming demand for cheap, local entertainment especially in a time of severe economic depression.

The Regal Cinema was designed in a splendid Art Deco style by architect W.R. Glen and was decked out in fine Art Deco style, and was equipped with an organ and a stage, allowing for variety performances to be included on the programme. Thus, despite its imposing size it was evidently designed with the local community at its core. In 1959, teen rock and roll idol and local boy Tommy Steele came in person to a charity premiere of ‘Tommy the Toreador’ in which he starred.

In February 1974 the cinema, renamed The ABC in 1963, was closed and converted into a bingo hall for a few years. It finally met its fate in November 1981, and by the end of the year it was demolished.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Opposite Page (Top): Current photograph of building (Dated 2014) Opposite Page (Bottom): Historic photograph of building © London Metropolitan Archives

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It was converted into a Skating Park called the ‘Mad Dog Bowl’ and Squash Courts in May 1978. This was later altered with the inclusion of a Gym and Sauna and renamed The Astoria Sports Centre but wasn’t a success.

A car dealership, blocks of flats, betting shops, and empty cafés now line this stretch of road where The Regal used to stand. Once the last of the glittering string of cinemas found on the Old Kent Road, today the site is an unremarkable one. These cinemas not only offered escapist entertainment during one of Britain’s bleakest times, but also created a sense of architectural and social coherence, the buildings acting as monuments to both light culture and community.

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1940s Date Built

SOCIAL HOUSING Old Kent Road

There are some good examples of historic social housing along the Old Kent Road. The mid Victorian tenement blocks (Dover, Kingsley & Waleran) which stand on the east side of the Old Kent Road running south from the foot of the Bricklayer’s Arms flyover possess a very positive townscape quality and merit conservation area status.

Another stretch of the Old Kent Road, south of the former Fire Station, demonstrates an interesting variety of mid 20th Century public housing. It includes the five-storey flats on the well maintained City of London estate (Avondale Square). These 1940s flats have a streamlined art deco style - particularly the long curved ended balconies, full height bow window to the stairways and some of the decorative brick detailing.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Photograph of Mawbey House (Dated 2014) Opposite Page: Photograph of Kent House (Dated 2014) Next Page: Photograph of Avondale Square (Dated 2014)

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1966 Date Built

NORTH PECKHAM CIVIC CENTRE

Old Kent Road

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Above (Right): Photograph of historic mural © www.southwarknews.co.uk Opposite Page: Current photograph of building (Dated 2014)

The North Peckham Civic Centre and Library was opened to the public in November 1966 and it soon became an important part of the community. And besides the history it has helped create in the last 40 years, its design pays homage to the part the Old Kent Road has played in some of the events that helped shaped the country.

The Centre, and particularly the Library, filled a void in the community and replaced the nearby Livesey Library, which had been damaged in the Second World War. The new building not only provided libraries for adults and children, but also an assembly hall and exhibition space.

The outside of the building is decorated with a famous mural, designed by Polish sculptor Adam Kossowski, which is a continuous frieze made up of 2,000 separate ceramic tiles, depicting scenes from Roman times right up to the 1960s in which it was made. The mural begins by showing Roman soldiers and citizens marching along what was then the Roman Watling Street. The ancient highway linking London with Kent and the European mainland later became what we know today as Old Kent Road. This section of the mural also depicts two carved heads of the Roman god Janus, similar to those discovered near the site in 1865.

Inside, the Library a large mobile steel structure hanging from the roof, designed and built by Bryan Kneale. Representing the now increasingly rare Camberwell Beauty butterfly. The butterfly is so named as the first English sighting of the species was in Camberwell in 1748.

By the 1990’s, Southwark Council had changed the building’s name to ‘The Civic’. In this new guise it hosted an ever-widening range of events, including youth theatre, music hall revivals, tea dances and comedy acts. Such famous names as Harry Hill, Felix Dexter and Ian Cognito all graced the famous assembly hall, which could seat up to 400 people.

While the opening of the impressively futuristic Peckham Library in 2000 brought the original function of the Centre to an end, the building still plays an important part in the life of the community for a great many people. The Everlasting Arms Ministries moved into the premises when the new library opened.

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1974-2014 Date Built - Demolished

THE HEYGATE ESTATE

Old Kent Road

The Heygate Estate was designed by Tim Tinker and completed in 1974. The housing estate was home to more than 3000 people. Due to a range of physical design challenge, such as poor security, low energy efficiency and environmental issues, the council agreed to rehouse residents and demolish the estate completely to make way for a regeneration of the area. In July 2014, the Heygate Estate was demolished. The remainder of the estate is not due to be demolished until 2015. The Council leader says that the reason for such a lengthy process is due to large amounts of asbestos within the estate’s construction The Corbusian concept behind the construction of the estate was of a modern living environment.

The neo-brutalist architectural aesthetic was one of tall, concrete blocks dwarfing smaller blocks, surrounding central communal gardens. The architect’s concept was to link all areas of the estate via concrete bridges, so there was no need for residents to walk on pavements or along roads. In fact, it was even planned to build bridges[citation needed] to the neighbouring Aylesbury Estate, further south in Walworth.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of building © www.southwark.gov.uk Opposite Page: Demolition photograph of building (2013) © www.philiphodgson.com Next Page: Future Proposal © www.london-se1.co.uk

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1974 Date Built

BRICKLAYERS ARMS FLYOVER

Junction linking Old Kent Road & New Kent Road

Bricklayers’ Arms is the junction of Old Kent Road, Tower Bridge Road, New Kent Road and Great Dover Street; Old Kent Road and New Kent Road east-bound are connected by a flyover.

The area is named after local coaching inn that was situated at the junction. It is also the former site of a large railway facility. The flyover of the Bricklayers’ Arms roundabout was built in the 1970s to cope with the increase in traffic in the area. Initially it consisted of two lanes for traffic, one into and one out of London; however, the London-bound lane was later closed after a number of head-on collisions on the flyover, which was hence reduced to east bound only route.

The roundabout would have been the site of a station, similar in layout to that at Old Street. The route is still safeguarded but has no prominence in current proposals. The pedestrian underpasses were not attractive and involved quite circuitous walks via the island, surfacing and descending again to the various entrances; in 2009 these were supplemented by Pelican Crossings at the junctions with New Kent and Old Kent Roads, introduced because pedestrians preferring to cross. In 2013 the underpasses were filled in and levelled becoming wider pavements at these points.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:10,000) Below: Historic photograph of flyover © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photographs of flyover (Dated 2014) Next Page: Current photographs of flyover (Dated 2014)

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1992 Date Built

FAST-FOOD OUTLETS

McDonalds & KFC, Old Kent Road

With the rising population along the Old Kent Road, two of the leading fast-food outlets have arrived along the Old Kent Road. ‘McDonalds’ was built in 1992 at 518 Old Kent Road. ‘KFC’ was later built further along at 671 Old Kent Road.

Both of these outlets are located within commercial areas along the road, both directly facing onto the street-scene with parking set behind the building. Both of the buildings are single storey in height, completely out of character with the road. The space above both of these stores could have been utilised for residential accommodation.

The elevational appearance of these buildings do not compliment any of the historic buildings along the Old Kent Road, instead are more like products, similar to any one of these outlets throughout the country.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Historic photograph of flyover © London Metropolitan Archives Opposite Page: Current photographs of flyover (Dated 2014)

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2004 Date Built

SUPERMARKETS

Tesco, Asda & Lidl, Old Kent Road

Below: ‘Tesco’ supermarket.

(Dated 2014) Opposite Page (Top): ‘Asda’ supermarket.

(Dated 2014) Opposite Page (Bottom): ‘Lidl’ supermarket.

(Dated 2014)

Asda was the first leading supermarkets to appear along the Old Kent Road, built in 2004.

The Asda store is located at 840 Old Kent Road, with a store entrance located on the junction between the Old Kent Road and Malt Street. Behind the store lies a large open-air car park.

Tesco built a store at 107 Dunton Road, with a weak frontage facing the Old Kent Road. The empty area facing the street has been attempted to be filled with a piece of public art, however the area still appears unsightly and forgotten.

There is also a Lidl store located at 96-120 Old Kent Road, close to the Bricklayers Arms Flyover. In comparison, this store is the smallest in size however seems very popular with the local residents.

All of these large open-plan warehouse like structures all weaken the street-scene along the Old Kent Road, ignoring to address the street frontage. All of these sites also engulf a large area of vehicle parking, which out of opening hours are dark and disregarded spaces.

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1997 Date Built

COMMERCIAL SUPERSTORES

Southernwood Retail Park, Old Kent Road

Southernwood Retail Park is located in a highly prominent position along the busy A2 Old Kent Road, benefitting from excellent visibility to a consistent flow of commuters and shoppers passing by. It is located within a densely populated residential area and there is a ‘Tesco’ food store positioned immediately opposite the park. The scheme forms part of a retail warehousing cluster which includes Cantium Retail Park (anchored by ‘B&Q’) and standalone stores occupied by ‘PC-World’ and ‘Toys-R-Us.’

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Opposite Page (Top): ‘B&Q’ superstore.

(Dated 2014) Opposite Page (Bottom): ‘Currys / PC World’ superstore.

(Dated 2014)

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2014 Date Built

MIXED-USE DEVELOPMENTS

Old Kent Road

This newly built mixed-use residential developments is one of many rising along the Old Kent Road. This proposal, designed by Emoli Petroschka Architects, consists of 92 residential units above ground floor commercial space. Planning Permission was granted by Southwark Council in 2011.

The development faces directly onto the Old Kent Road, and provides ground floor commercial space, with 3 full storeys of residential accommodation. Along part of the development there is another 2-stories set back within the roof-space.

These types of developments aim to accommodate the rising number of residents seeking to live within the area, whilst the commercial space is hoped to provide some contribution back to the community. However due to decline in retail business along the Old Kent Road it appears these units may remain empty for some time.

Above: Location Plan (Scale 1:5000) Below: Newly built mixed-use development.

(Dated 2014) Opposite Page: Newly built offices facing Old Kent Road.

(Dated 2014)

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CHAPTER 9:

SUMMARY

FINDINGS:

What have we learnt?

WHAT BUILDINGS REMAIN? - Public Houses - Social Housing - Religious Buildings WHY HAVE THESE BUILDINGS LASTED? Public houses with residential accommodation above are the most common type of buildings which have best survived the test of time along the Old Kent Road. There has always been, and there is an ever increasing requirement for housing in London, therefore the prime examples of social housing have also survived.

THE CHARACTERISTICS OF REMAINING BUILDINGS; - Small footprint - Direct street access - Mixed-use (Residential above commercial) - Traditional construction method (long building life) THE CHARACTERISTICS OF REMAINING BUILDINGS; - Large footprint - Limited Access - Mono-use (Limited Occupants) - Quick construction method (short building life) SUMMARY OF FINDINGS There have been many well built theatres within the area that were also well built, however there large footprint and limited access meant they could not be sub-divided and possibly used for an alternate use, therefore did not last and were replaced.

The study shows there has been a decline in the need for public houses along the Old Kent Road. Many of these have changed use to restaurants or even for religious purposes.

In future projects its important to take this into consideration, within the principle design, but also within the construction techniques. The study shows us well built, multi-use buildings have tested time and still remain along the Old Kent Road.

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TIME-LINE:

Series of Historic Events

ROMAN PERIOD Watling Street built by Romans to connect London to Dover (via Canterbury).

MEDIEVAL PERIOD Kent Street (now known as Tabard Street) adjoined Borough High Street.

St Thomas, watering for the Pilgrims on route (now Thomas A Becket Pub) TUDOR PERIOD 1539 - Vicar of Wandsworth hung drawn and quartered at St Thomas, denying Henry VIII’s supermacy over Rome in regard to faith in England STUART PERIOD 1660 - Charles II returned to London via the Kent Road on his restoration GEORGIAN PERIOD 1740 - Last use of gallows at St Thomas 1796 - ‘World Turned Upside Down’ (145 Old Kent Road) was established 1796 - ‘Kentish Dovers’ established 1807 - ‘Deaf & Dumb’ Asylum founded REGENCY PERIOD 1811- Surrey Canal opened (crossed Kent Road at Canal Bridge) 1827 - Licensed Victualler’s Asylum founded 1833 - ‘South Metropolitan Gasworks’ opened (coal supplied by canal) VICTORIAN PERIOD (Kent Road become known as Old Kent Road) 1838 - ‘Christ Church’ built on Ruby Street 1844 - ‘Bricklayers Arms Railway Station’ opened 1852 - ‘Bricklayers Arms Railway Station’ closed 1856 - ‘Old Dun Cow’ opened (279 Old Kent Road) 1866 - ‘Old Kent Road railway station opened 1868 - ‘Christ Church’ closed and reopened south side of Old Kent Road 1890- ‘Livesey Museum’ opened MODERN PERIOD 1917 - Old Kent Road railway station closed 1930 - ‘Palasino Electric Theatre’ opened (593-597 Old Kent Road) 1930 - ‘World Turned Upside Down’ rebuilt 1937 - ‘Regal (ABC) Theatre’ was built 1941 - Bricklayers Arms goods depot was bombed 1953 - Old Kent Road Gasworks closed 1960 - Surrey Canal closed 1974 - ‘Bricklayers Arms Flyover’ was built 1974 - ‘Livesey Building’ became children’s museum 2004 - ‘Asda’ superstore opened

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CONCLUSION: Summary

We now understand saving historic buildings should be seen as valued assets that add greatly to reserve the genius loci and sense of place identity. It is also of key importance for future sustainability, especially within densely populated cities, to prolong the life of buildings.

Heritage assets should form an integral part of any development strategy which should encourage their appropriate refurbishment to extend their useful life (including the reinstatement of lost features that contribute to the local townscape) or if they are vacant or derelict, bring them back into use as a fundamental part of any development.

There are many good examples of heritage-led development schemes in London and elsewhere in the United Kingdom and continental Europe which are exemplars of a constructive approach to new development in historic areas, and these can inform future new housing intensification projects within the capital.

The redevelopment of under-utilised land with high quality, imaginatively designed mixed use schemes that respond to, reinforce and build upon the sense of place created by the heritage assets that make the area special, should be welcomed. The retention and further development of the important retail and employment functions of the area must ensure that these uses address the street rather than being orientated towards car parks, incorporate active street-frontages and repair street-scapes that have been dislocated in recent decades.

The provision of much-needed new community uses which bring back the economic and social vitality lost in the past half century. In the last forty years the Old Kent Road has experienced a sorry period of decline, both in terms of economic vitality and quality of townscape. This period has seen a tragic destruction of architectural heritage and its replacement with very poor quality development which has severely eroded the character of this key thoroughfare.

Where as once it was lined with fine buildings which had largely active frontages facing directly onto the foot-ways, a large proportion of its street frontages today are occupied by car parks, blank end walls, car showrooms and retail sheds of very basic designs which tend to face the huge parking yards rather than addressing the street.

They also represent a very inefficient use of land on one of the most important gateways into central London. Despite having excellent public transport links along this route, large areas of land are given over to mono-retail use - single storey warehouse stores with acres of parking.

These sites are therefore ripe for redevelopment and intensification. Some examples of these under-utilised sites include; Tesco, PC World and B&Q.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY:

Acknowledgements

Book designer, author and editor - Jack Baron © Jack Baron, 2015. All rights reserved.

Printed in United Kingdom.

All photographs and graphics were taken and produced by Jack Baron (unless otherwise stated.)

All historic photographs courtesy of ‘London Metropolitan Archives’ (unless otherwise stated.)

- ‘Southwark Council Burgess Park’. Southwark Council. 2013. Retrieved 11 Sep. 2013 - ‘Greater London Plan. London: University of London Press’ Abercrombie, Patrick (1944).

- Carter, E.J. (1945). ‘The County of London Plan. London’ by Penguin Books - White, Jerry (2008). London in the 20th Century: A city and its People.

- ‘London Encyclopaedia’ by Christopher Hibbert - http://asylumlondon.org/history - http://www.southlondonguide.co.uk/oldkentroad/history - http://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol25 - http://www.southlondon.guide.co.uk

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CATEGORIES: ruins & wastelands porosity- visual and physical depth edges - thresholds and gates. parklife tributaries elevation profiles of the street. storage & distribution flow topography memory future waste energy residential typologies religious buildings and spaces & communities

landscapes work activities- casual, negotiated, stalls food outlets & food deserts trading - sole traders, drive-ins, multinationals a survey of the age of buildings on OKR and the historic layers around it.

Art, artists, street art & installed art future plans

re\source studio 22

OLD KENT ROAD 2014/15

HISTORICAL CONTEXT One of a series of city context studies exploring the Old Kent Road as it stands in 2014 one of London’s oldest, richest and diverse tributaries. It has become an almost invisible, overlooked element typical of most cities around the world.

This neglect has in many ways preserved or allowed this richness to thrive. Largely left alone due to the lower economic value of the areas it touches, it is for us, a far more relevant area to study. Its intensity & diversity has more in common with developing cities than the overtly capitalist aspirations of modern London.