iW / International WristWatch Summer 2022 by iwmagazine

MissionModularHegid’s MMXXII / SUMMER DEBUTS HUBLOT SQUARES BIG ULTRA-THINBANG BULGARI AND RICHARD MILLE FRANCK COLORFULMULLER’SGEMSPARMIGIANIFLEURIER’SELEGANTGMTGRANDSEIKOEVOLVESWITHSPORTYTITANIUM

INSTRUMENTSTIME WRISTTHETOCOCKPITTHEFROM strong.itmakeandproducttheshapeelementsUtilitarianfunction.isobjecttheofsubstanceThe reliability.andprecisionfunctionality,legibility,principles:designbasicfourmeetwatchesRoss&Bell

DIVER 300M bellross.comwater-resistant300mAutomaticMatteBlackDiver03-92BR42mm

As fun as it is to see your face superimposed with Warby Parker glasses digitally projected onto it, or to see a virtually projected watch on your wrist, it is just not the same.

THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FROM THE EDITORS Letters + Events hile Meta entices us to take leave the physical world in favor of the virtual, and marketing agencies insist that companies MUST engage in ongoing development of a phygital approach to create a nirvanic customer experience, I’ll go ahead and show my age with my own appreciation for getting back to business in-person.

While we’ve been forced to reach around the corner or around the world through a Zoom lens for the last couple of years, the welcome return of a simple handshake, kiss on the cheek (single for USA, double for France, and of course the Swiss triple), or even the ungainly man-hug are manna for my soul. The subtle cues of quickly ﬂashed smile or a dirty look, as well as the sights, sounds, and scents of humans interacting at any venue create the atmosphere in which I thrive. No, I do not fear infection and never have. We all get sick once in a while and I’d rather take my chances living, than cringing in fear and dying a little bit more every day in hiding. My own appreciation for watches (and I suspect most others) is analogous to meeting and greeting people in-person. While I enjoy reviewing images and video showing new wristwatches, until I can hold it in my hand, see it on my wrist, feel the heft (or lack thereof) of a watch I’m only halfway to full understanding and possibly appreciation. Feeling the cool touch of sapphire under my chin, listening intently for the rhythmic ticking of the mechanics to estimate the frequency, feeling the sensuous ﬁ nishing on the case, rotating a bezel and feel/listen/look at the action, twist the crown, kick the tires, check the mileage and take it for a test drive – that’s “watching” the way it’s supposed to be.

Now that the ﬂ oodgates have been opened, events like Watches & Wonders are back on the schedule, as are the domestic shows from Couture and JCK. Smaller local events for the collector community and the industry are once again popping up and I encourage every watch enthusiast to make time in their schedule to get out and ﬁ nd an event near them. Pick up a watch and hold it. Talk to the representative. Ask questions. Engage. Enjoy. And most of all….

Keep Watching Gary Girdvainis

4 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

The new fully translucent Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire.

Gary George Girdvainis Publisher | Gary@isochronmedia.com

GENEVA WONDERS FROM THE EDITORS Letters + Events

s my colleague Nancy Olson notes in her edit letter this month, watch shows have returned. Having visited Watchers and Wonders in Geneva, the largest such event held in recent months, I can attest to the ongoing creativity among our favorite watchmakers.

The new tourbillonConstantinVacheronOverseasskeletonis the watchmaker’s first all-titanium model with integrated bracelet.

6 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

A As we’ve shown you on our various virtual platforms, the top trends on display in Geneva included a duo of notable titanium debuts and continued updates of historical designs. But more signiﬁcantly, we also saw an unabashed focus on complicated functions.WhenA.

Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin premier titanium models where none existed previously, you know we’re talking about a real trend. Advocates for the lightweight metal, well established as a metal of choice for sporty and even many leisurely designs throughout the watchmaking world, have ﬁnally made their case for titanium cases within the upper echelons of hauteThus,horology.wenow ﬁnd Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Skeleton and A. Lange & Söhne’s sporty Odysseus each available with a titanium case and bracelet. Grand Seiko, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Ulysse Nardin, Chopard, Cartier and Patek Philippe led the pack in the complicated realm with impressive technical debuts, though ultra-thin debuts from Piaget and Bulgari (o -site) continue to mesmerize me. Individually, I was most impressed by watches from Parmigiani Fleurier (the beautiful Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Cartier (the Masse Mysterious and the Tank Chinois), Vacheron Constantin (the Historiques 222), Zenith (Chronomaster Sport Boutique Edition) and Patek Philippe (Calatrava 5226G).

I’m also aching to wear Chopard’s new L.U.C XPS 1860 O cer, the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Caliber 403 or the new Angelus Chronodate—all of which might have ﬂown under the radar amid the show’s headliners. Inside this issue you’ll ﬁnd descriptions and images of several of these debuts, with many others noted on our various online outlets. Stay tuned online and within our remaining 2022 print issues for ongoing reports on some of the wonders we witnessed in Geneva—and beyond.

Michael Thompson Editor-in-Chief | mike@isochronmedia.com

MAKING UP FOR LOST TIME

Tradeshows also took a big hit early on, but many watch brands were able to stay in touch with their clients via Zoom or other like software. I grew to enjoy these come-as-you-are virtual events, and I am so grateful they were there to ﬁll in the gaps until we could meet face-to-face once again. But many well-loved timepiece gatherings are now back in full force, albeit with some manageable modiﬁcations. And this summer’s shows—like Couture and JCK in Las Vegas—were all geared up for the throngs.

FROM THE EDITORS Letters + Events

Nancy Olson Managing Editor nancy@isochronmedia.com

The Oris ProPilotX Caliber 400

8 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

The best parts of a tradeshow—and the things I missed most over the past couple of years—are the opportunities to see and touch new products, ask pertinent unedited questions on the spot, and meet up with colleagues and friends to discuss the goings on in our beloved industry. So take advantage of the hallowed halls and enjoy as much as you can to safely make up for lost time.

he pandemic has changed so many things in our work lives it’s hard to know where to begin when trying to enumerate them. But, thanks to more vaccinations and more science, work guidelines have evolved over the past several months to embrace a gentler version of their former Covid-induced austerity.

T For example, the stay-at-home orders of a few years ago have been replaced by a hybridized approach, with many companies allowing their employees to work from home a few days of the workweek and from the o ce on the remaining days. Air travel, which was all but completely shut down, is opening up, with pent-up demand evident in long lines and short tempers.

TONDA PF MICRO-ROTOR

#TimeIsFlying

12 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 PG. 78 PG. 56 PG.105 CONTENTS Cover Story & Features PAGE 34 STORYCOVER FEATURE STORIES MISSIONMODULARHEGID’S 42 | H UBLOT SQUARES BIG BANG A set of five chronographs set with a Unico movement. 48 | FRANCK MULLER’S LATEST GEM-SET MYSTERIES The watchmaker again pairs its technical chops with gem-setting expertise. 50 | BULGARI CONTINUES BREAKING RECORDS The Italian-Swiss watchmaker keeps it thin. 56 | GREUBEL FORSEY UPDATES GMT SPORT Look for an all-new, fully integrated titanium bracelet. 60 | SPORTY TITANIUM Grand Seiko adds five titanium watches to Evolution 9. 66 | ZENITH ENHANCES CHRONOMASTER Look for a new tachometer scale and a new bracelet. 70 | DOXA ADDS COLOR TO CARBON The famed independent Swiss dive watch maker revisits its high-tech case. 74 | PERPETUAL STYLE Frederique Constant expands perpetual calendar options. 78 | VINTAGE BUMPER Alpina reboots a ‘bumper’ movement. 80 | ELEGANT FLYBACK Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a terrific world-first GMT complication. 84 | TOP GUN UPDATES IWC adds Ceratanium and Timezoner to the collection. 86 | S TEEL SKELETON Maurice Lacroix creates an open-worked Aikon. 88 | COUTURE 2022 DEBUTS A look at all that was new at the Las Vegas show. 98 | ULTIMATE THINNESS Richard Mille teams with Ferrari for an ultra-thin record. 102 | TITANIUM PILOT Oris expands its ProPilot collection with a titanium-cased model. Hegid builds watches around the concept of interchangeability. 16 | DIALED IN 22 | BOUTIQUE 105 | BACKSTORY: Jacob & Co. 106 | GARY THE DEPARTMENTSWATCHMAKER

CVSTOS THE TIME KEEPER Rue Voltaire 3-5 - 1201 Geneva - Switzerland www.cvstos.com / info@cvstos.comLIMITEDTITANIUMEDITION

IW MAGAZINE is published six times per year both in print and digitally by Isochron Media Group, 25 Gay Bower Rd. Monroe, CT, 06468. One year (six issue) subscription $49. Copyright 2022, all rights reserved. Editorial inquiries should be sent to Isochron Media address. All views and opinions expressed within are those of the writers and do not necessarily reflect those of IW MAGAZINE or ISOCHRON MEDIA, GROUP. ISSN 2169-5814 “The trademarks, logos, and service marks (collectively the “Trademarks”) displayed in this magazine are registered and unregistered trademarks of ISOCHRON MEDIA GROUP its affiliates and others. You can view trademarks owned by ISOCHRON MEDIA GROUP on Trademarkia at this link: http://www.trademarkia.com/company-isochron-media-llc-3824346-page-1-2 Nothing contained in this magazine should be construed as granting, by implication, estoppel, or otherwise, any license or right to use any Trademark displayed in this magazine without the written permission of ISOCHRON MEDIA GROUP or such third party that may own the trademark displayed in this magazine. Your misuse of the Trademarks displayed on this Web Site, or any other content in this magazine, except as provided herein, is strictly prohibited.” MASTHEAD MissionModularHegid’s MMXXII SUMMER DEBUTS HUBLOT SQUARES BIG ULTRA-THINBANG BULGARI AND RICHARD MILLE FRANCK COLORFULMULLER’SGEMSPARMIGIANIFLEURIER’SELEGANTGMTGRANDSEIKOEVOLVESWITHSPORTYTITANIUM PRINT & ONLINE ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Gary Girdvainis, Group Publisher Phone (203) 485-6276 e-mail: Subscriptions:sales@isochronmedia.cominfo@isochronmedia.com25GaybowerRd.Monroe,CT06468Website:iwmagazine.com BOARD OF ADVISORS: Al Armstrong, Owner Armstrong Rockwell Roberto Chiappelloni, Owner Manfredi Jewels Pierre Halimi, Watch Industry Member Don Loke, Certified Master Watchmaker Dr. Thomas Mao, Watch Expert Noel B. Poirier, Museum Director National Watch & Clock Museum, Columbia, PA John Reardon, Watch Expert Manuel Yazijian, Master Watchmaker (CMW 21) PUBLISHER Isochron Media Group GROUP PUBLISHER Gary George Girdvainis Worldwide Correspondents Marton Radkai Nitin Shankar Ted MartinDiehlFoster Watch Culture Editor Steven J. Lundin North American Contributors Keith JanJamesJamesFlamerHendersonLamdinTegler Senior Editor Luxury lifestyle Charles Moyer EDITORIAL Editorial Director Gary George Girdvainis Editor-in-Chief Michael Thompson Managing Editor Nancy Olson European Editor Nola Martin media group ON THE COVER Hegid watches are built around the concept of interchangeability. Buyers receive a capsule, the core of the watch itself, and can customize with different bezels and bands, changing the basic look of the watch while retaining the fundamentals. Read more about Hegid starting on page 34. iW Middle East Edition c/o Vasken Chokarian Luxury Phone:Dubai-UAEPOCommunicationsBusinessBox474182+971(0)4 88 555 25 advertise@LBCME.AE. ART & PRODUCTION Art Director Silvio Del Monaco Original Photography Cargill (203)www.cargillphoto.comPhotography258-0099 Creative Direction Brain Bleach Media Video Editor Marc Frankel 14 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

MTGB3000BD1A 12.1mm Slim Case Dual Core Guard Structure TOUGH SOLAR POWER SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL

“We were able to present the NFT to its new owner at the actual event and guests enjoyed being able to view the Porsche 911 Joker and watch exhibits and meet their creators,” says Artemy Lechbinsky, CEO, Ineichen Auctioneers.

BRIGHT FUTURE Ineichen Auctioneers ranks no. 2 in sales among Swiss watch auction houses. Its sales as of November 2021 reached in excess of CHF 8 million, a 166% increase from the previous auction in MayThis2021.trajectory started in 2017 when the company changed hands, name and strategy. Three years later, with a new IT infrastructure in place, it concluded its most successful auction in sales in forty years. In 2021, the auctioneers launched an online store and in-house bidding platform, which soon realized its first sale. Their previous record by sales volumes was broken at the May 22 auction, which also saw the sale of its first watch-related NFT token. The November 2021 auctions achieved more than double that result in sales, marking Ineichen’s successful transition from hosting large semi-annual auctions with more than 200 lots each to the current lineup of themed auctions of no more than fifty watches.

While bidders came from the U.S. (16.02%), Hong Kong (14.29%) and Singapore (11.26%), most of the bidding was conducted online.

The watch tracks time using discs for eyes and eyeballs that move in up to 20,000 different ways. The left-side pusher serves to adjust the moonphase indication and with the crown represents the Joker’s ears. Facial contours are emphasized via two kinds of guilloché applications on the dial. A Caliber ETA 2824-2 movement powers the watch.

The Joker XXX auction followed an earlier auction with a rose gold theme. In late March the Ineichen La Vie en Rose sale of high-profile rose-gold timepieces resulted in sales of $2.5 million, including a new global record for a particular watch by Vacheron Constantin. The Vacheron Constantin Les Complications Chronograph Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 49005/000R), estimated at CHF 15,000 to 20,000 sold for a new world record at CHF 52,000.Toplots at the auction included the F. P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Sincere Limited Edition No. 202-RN, which was estimated at CHF 200,000-300,000 and sold for CHF 360,000. Similar success was achieved for the F. P. Journe Octa Calendrier Sincere Limited-Edition No. 239-Q, which sold for CHF 280,000, well above its estimate.

INEICHEN AUCTIONEERS REPORTS RECORD SALES 16 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 HOROLOGICAL NEWS Dialed In The Joker XXX NFT-art sold with the watch and car. K. Chaykin Joker XXX Piece Unique 2022 case back

ROSE GOLD AUCTION

Although this was not the first NFT to be traded by Ineichen (the auctioneer sold the world’s most-expensive NFT token for a watch, the Joker NFT also by Chaykin, for CHF 52,080 in 2021) the lot generated tremendous interest.

The estimated starting price was set at CHF 100,000, and bidding was brisk among collectors. Chaykin’s Joker XXX retains the technological complexity of Chaykin’s one-of-a-kind creations. The design uses the color scheme of Chaykin’s Joker Black Bet watch, and reflects the look inspired by the Batman villain of the same name.

Zurich-based Ineichen Auctioneers notched several firsts at its April 30 auction when it sold (for $324,000) a unique Konstantin Chaykin Joker XXX watch and a matching Porsche and NFT.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 17 DIALED IN Horological News K. Chaykin Joker XXX Piece Unique 2022 Ineichen CEO Artemy Lechbinsky

GREUBEL FORSEY FOUNDERS BUY COMPANY

MAURICE LACROIX CLEANS UP IN THAILAND

In Thailand, Maurice Lacroix assisted with providing employment, long-tail boats, warehousing and equipment in order to gather plastic waste. In addition, Maurice Lacroix is funding educational programs in the region. As part of a long-term commitment, the watchmaker vows to recover 10 million plastic bottles from the ocean by providing financial support.

As it enters its 185th year, C.D. Peacock, Chicago’s oldest business, and the city’s first jeweler, will open one of the largest watch and jewelry stores of its kind in the flagship mansion planned for the Oakbrook Center in late fall.

C.D.Peacock’s new vice chairman, Steven Holtzman, and his wife Qi, have relocated from Switzerland to head the venture. Holtzman has named former Chanel and Cartier executive Olivier Stip as C.D. Peacock’s chief development officer. He will oversee store expansion and remodeling.

“This independence will allow Greubel Forsey to define the next stages of development and maturity with complete freedom,” says Antonio Calce, chief executive officer and executive board member. He own shares alongside founders and Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey.

The Holtzmans plan to incorporate global luxury concepts to influence one of the first-of-its-kind, 20,000 square-foot indooroutdoor spaces. The flagship mansion will include a lounge, restaurant, and VIP rooms to make C.D. Peacock one of the largest jewelry and watch stores in the U.S.

“Chicagoans can expect to see C.D. Peacock fanning its vibrant feathers in new places, with unique concepts and strong luxury brand partnerships to serve future generations. We’ve been our great city’s leading jeweler since 1837,” says Holtzman, vice chairman. “Qi and I are honored to be overseeing one of the most exciting times in our company’s history.”

Owned by its founders until 2006, followed by years co-owned with the Richemont group, Greubel Forsey in early 2022 returned to founder ownership. The high-end Swiss watchmaker took back its corporate shares in March, with officers now owning 100% of Greubel Forsey Holding SA and Greubel Forsey GFPI. The group and the companies owned by it thus regain their full independence.

18 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 DIALED IN Horological News

C.D. PEACOCK TO OPEN NEW FLAGSHIP

Weeks after a similar event in Miami, Maurice Lacroix traveled to Phuket in Thailand to lead an array of beach cleaning activities designed to make the Andaman Sea, off the coast of Thailand, a little cleaner. The aim is to heighten awareness of how everyone can collectively contribute to sustainability.

HSNY AWARDS STUDENTS AND SCHOOLS

The Grace Fryer Scholarship for Female Watchmaking Students (NEW) Vernine Blaszczyk, North American Swiss Institute of Watchmaking, TX ($5,000) Andrea Vara, North American Swiss Institute of Watchmaking, TX ($5,000)

Louie Barrera, York Time Institute, PA ($5,000)

Paris Junior College Watchmaking Program, Paris, TX ($10,000) North Seattle College Watch Technology Institute, Seattle, WA ($10,000) Veterans Watchmaker Initiative, Odessa, DE ($5,000)

•

Manousos.HSNYPresident John Teifert presents Fortunat Mueller-Maerki with the Howard Fass Award, HSNY’s highest honor.

The Oscar Waldan Scholarship for Jewish Watchmaking Students

• Levi Cooper, Lititz Watch Technicum, PA ($5,000)

• Eric Preciado, Veterans Watchmaker Initiative, DE ($5,000) Matthew Smithey, Paris Junior College Watchmaking Program, TX ($5,000)

•

After a two-year pause in its 156-year tradition, the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) held its annual Gala on April 9. It awarded $100,000 to watchmaking students and schools, and raised an additional $18,000 toward its mission of advancing the art and science of horology.

The Henry B. Fried Scholarship for Watchmaking Students

Highlights from the evening included a presentation by HSNY President John Teifert of the Howard Fass Award, given this year to longtime HSNY member and horological bibliophile Fortunat Mueller-Maerki. Bestowed for the third time since its creation in 2016, the Howard Fass award is HSNY’s highest honor, given to individuals judged to have shown extraordinary dedication to the ideals that the Society pursues.

• Evan Embrey, North Seattle College Watch Technology Institute, WA ($5,000)

•

The Benjamin Banneker Scholarship for Black Watchmaking Students

•

• Harold Liu, Contingent Student, Canada ($5,000)

•

• Robert Younger, Patek Philippe Institute, NY ($5,000)

20 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 DIALED IN Horological News

•

John B. Kim, Apprentice, OR ($5,000)

• Benjamin Herring, Veterans Watchmaker Initiative, DE ($5,000)

Joshua Daniel Strick, Contingent Student, WA ($5,000)

Robert Younger, a student of the Patek Philippe Institute in New York, accepts financial aid on behalf of all 2022 recipients. A giant check was issued by HSNY Director of Education Steve Eagle, left Jared Tramontano, left, poses as HSNY’s first Lifetime Membership cardholder alongside HSNY President John Teifert and Executive Director Nicholas

HSNY also awarded $100,000, its largest financial aid package ever, to fifteen watchmaking students and three watchmaking institutions across the country. The awards were presented to:

• Andre Booker, North Seattle College Watch Technology Institute, WA ($5,000)

The Howard Robbins Award for Watchmaking Schools

•

• Edmond Zacapa, Lititz Watch Technicum, PA ($5,000)

Cassidy Atkins, York Time Institute, PA ($5,000)

•

Ulysse Nardin updates its already legend ary hands-free, dial-free and crown-free Freak with a double oscillator, a technical flourish that deepens its three-dimensional effect while strengthening its efficiency and precision.

22 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 Boutique

The visual effect, centered with a pair of rose gold bridges holding the two blue oscillators, recalls a rocket wing. Remember, as a carrousel the Freak’s entire movement makes a complete rota tion in one hour. A broad arrow on the watch’s aventurine movement plate shows the hour while the longer nose cone of the rocket with the balance wheels and the escapement indicates the minutes. The Freak S’ time is set by rotating the bezel in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. The new Freak S also marks an update to the efficiency of Ulysse Nardin’s already highly efficient Grinder automatic winding system. Using slight wrist movements, Grinder operates using four blades that connect to the oscillat ing weight, which gives the self-winding system twice the angular stroke and limits friction. (See additional technical specifications below.)

Ulysse Nardin will make the Freak S as a limited edition of seventy-five pieces, of which forty will be made this year. Every watch is fitted with an alligator strap decorated with a Sport cutout in rose gold color. The timepiece is fitted with a self-folding clasp system in titanium with black DLC.

ULYSSE NARDIN Freak S

Ulysse Nardin’s highlight debut at Watches & Wonders 2022, the new Freak S also marks the premiere of new UN-251 Manufacture move ment. The new caliber dramatically hosts a new blued “DiamonSIL” (diamond-coated sili con) double oscillator with each balance wheel inclined at a 20-degree angle and linked by a differential.UlysseNardin explains that the multi-gear differential, clearly visible between the balance wheels, evenly distributes the barrel’s energy to the two regulating organs, so that the Freak S’ amplitude remains stable.

ULYSSE NARDIN Freak S (75-piece limited edition) SPECIFICATIONS Movement UN-251 Caliber Hours and minutes indicated by the movement’s BaguetteFlyingrotation.carrouselmovement: one rotation per hour. Grinder automatic winding with blades, flexible guidance and shock absorber. Extralarge inclined double balance wheel in silicium with inertia-blocks, vertical differential. Power reserve is 72 hours (2 x 2.5 Hz (2x 18’000 vph). Case 45mm black ceramic, titanium with black DLC and rose gold. Time set with the front bezel, lever lock. Manual winding possible with the back bezel. Decorative movement plate in black aventurine. 30 meters water resistance, sapphire domed box with antireflective treatment on both sides. Back: Titanium with black DLC, 6 screws, visible “Grinder” through open sapphire case-back. Strap Bi-material black alligator & golden calf strap or black alligator strap. Price $137,200. BOUTIQUE SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 23

ARMIN STROM Tribute 1 California Armin Strom adds retro-inspired mark ers to its contemporary Tribute 1 while also enhancing the color options for the manual-wind model’s already distinctive offsetHere,dial.Armin Strom places so-called California markers onto the Tribute 1 dial, which can now also be ordered in a choice of five fumé colors that contrast nicely to the surrounding new black guilloché dial plate.While the new colors and markers highlight the new series, for many collec tors that dial plate itself stands out here: Much-lauded Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen crafted each of the black guilloché dial plates by hand. The California dial, distinguished by alternating Roman and Arabic numerals, differs fairly dramatically from the thin stick markers found on earlier Tribute 1 models. Their presence here, in combina tion with Voutilainen’s traditional guilloche plate, stylistically contrasts with the modernistic exposed and decorated mainspring barrel that dominates the

24 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 BOUTIQUE

Armin Strom is offering five different fumé (sunburst-pattern) dials, includ ing versions in blue, light blue, green, burgundy and black. The dials are each set with Armin Strom’s own distinctive hour, minute and seconds hands. Inside Armin Strom places is own manual-wind manufacture Caliber AMW21 that boasts an incredible 100-hours of power reserve.

ARMIN STROM Tribute 1 California lower section of the 38mm steel watch.

Armin Strom notes that its watchmakers assemble, disassemble and reassemble each caliber to ensure that and each individual part was cleaned, dried, reassembled and lubricated before being regulated, tested and placed back into its steel case.

Price: $19.000

BOUTIQUE

Armin Strom presents each Tribute 1 California watch on a black alligator leather strap with stitching that matches the color of the dial.

The Tribute 1 California is available in editions limited to five per color and Armin Strom will make only twenty-five of these new watches in total.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 25

BELL & ROSS BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire

The well-defined edges of the sapphire case create both reflections and refrac tions that play with any nearby light, which will undoubtedly animate the watch on any wrist. The metallic skull and crossbones appear to float between the case’s two sapphire crystals.

BOUTIQUE

While that latter jet design inspiration is meant to make the Stealth bomber disap pear from radar, the shape and makeup of the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire create a watch that, even when worn with its clear rubber strap, is quite unlikely to avoid attention.InsideBell & Ross fits its BR-CAL.209 manual-wind automaton movement specifically developed for the watch. The plate and bridges are built to create skull shape, which are held by metallic and sapphire crossbones. And while many watchmakers refer to the spring balance as the ‘heart’ of their mechanical calibers, Bell & Ross calls the exposed balance on the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire the ‘brains’ of its unusual caliber. Bell & Ross will make ten examples of the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire. Price: $117,000.

26 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Bell & Ross explains that its design ers drew on several sources of inspiration when designing the new case. They include avant-garde, a somewhat pixelated skull, origami and, of course, the brand’s historic eye on military shapes. Bell & Ross says the “case is shaped like the fuselage of an American F117 stealth bomber.”

Grand Seiko artisans have devised a dial with a three-dimensional appearance enhanced by how light plays off textural undulations. The woodgrain effect appears realistic thanks to a subtle use of dark and light tones across the dial. Grand Seiko says it plans to echo the design of this new model in the future, dubbing it Series 9, which will feature the larger hands designed to align exactly with grooved hour markers. In addition, this model offers its platinum case finished with a hairline pattern matched with a mirror finish. As an anniversary piece, the watch’s precious metal is celebrated. On the dial, Grand Seiko places a star at six o’clock to indicate that the indexes are solid gold, as are the GS letters, the calendar frame and the Inside,buckle.theGrand Seiko Caliber 9SA5 is billed by the brand as its finest – and for many reasons. Primarily, the movement is thinner and is more efficient than earlier automatic calibers, attributes driven in part by a wholly new Dual Impulse Escapement. This Grand Seiko invention combines direct impulse, where power is transferred directly from the escape wheel to the balance, with conventional indirect impulse. Twin barrels also enhance the caliber’s toprate 80-hour power reserve.

BOUTIQUE

Price: $59,000.

28 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

GRAND SEIKO Heritage Collection

Grand Seiko adds a new 40mm platinumcased model within its vintage-inspired Heritage collection. The new watch features the Caliber 9SA5, the brand’s superb new high-beat movement, and a dial meant to echo the beauty of tree rings.With its intricate depiction of tree grain, the new limited edition is meant to embody Seiko-founder Kintaro Hattori’s spirit and vision. “As if stretching back to reveal the very roots of Kintaro’s story, a series of delicate and organic lines echo the intricate rings that denote each year’s growth,” according to the brand.

Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition (SLGH007)

BOUTIQUE SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 29

CHOPARD Golden Eagle Chopard adds a 44mm two-tone chronograph to its high-flying Alpine Eagle collection and, in a collection premiere, attaches the watch to a leatherPreviouslystrap. available in Chopard’s own Lucent Steel alloy and/or cased in ethical rose gold, the sporty Alpine Eagle XL Chrono range now includes this model newly and luxuriously cased in ethical rose gold and a ceramic/ tita niumLikealloy.allof the Alpine Eagle models, the dial here retains a radiant pattern meant to evoke the iris of an eagle. But the darker version visible on this new edition is a reference to the “intense black of mountain nights when wild life reclaims its rights,” according to Chopard’s Co-President and creator of the collection, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele.

BOUTIQUE 30 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Beneath the dial of the new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono model Chopard fits its excellent 03.05-C flyback chronograph movement with column-wheel and vertical clutch, an in-house design featuring COSC-chronometer-certified operation and three patents. As noted earlier, this new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono is the collection’s first series-produced timepiece with a black calf leather strap. Previously, only the Alpine Eagle XL Chrono created for the recent Only Watch charity auction included a leather strap. Here, the strap features hints red bridle stitching to echo the dial’s red accents. Price: $34,500.

The new chronograph maintains the collec tion’s fairly sleek profile, which here means the chronograph pushers are integrated on either side of a protective bumper adjacent to the crown.The dial is easy to read. Its black counters for the 30-minute, small seconds and 12-hour indications are nicely proportioned. For those measuring average speed times, the tachymeter is clearly graduated and the chronograph seconds hand is tipped with red.

Limited Edition Dress Chronograph. Series of 25 numbered pieces of each. Exotic Medical Grade 5 Titanium case. Quality #1 Chronometer Rated Concepto Movement as found in watches costing twice as much. Water resistant to 5 atmospheres (50M). For further information call 203.843.1717 or contact Enquiries@DrLokeWatches.com Lacquered Enamel Dial Deluxe Alligator Strap Concealed PushersConcepto Movement

LONGER POWER RESERVE

A.LANGE & SÖHNE Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen

A.Lange & Söhne is not content to update an existing model by simply expanding the watch’s case metal options, a tactic frequent among even the world’s finest watchmak ers. We often see an existing model from this famed German watchmaker updated with a new movement, an updated dial treatment or even an entirely new case size. So yes, the new A. Lange Söhne Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, as its new name signifies, is newly draped in the watchmaker’s own warm-hued Honeygold alloy, the first time we’ve seen a Lumen watch cased in Honeygold. But it should also surprise no one that the newest edition of A. Lange Söhne’s most spectacular watches hosts several technical updates, in addition to its namesake new case metal.

A.Lange & Söhne has also heightened the caliber’s stability by adding a (patented) constant-force escapement to control the time display’s complex switching processes. As the watchmaker explains, the newest escapement generates the impulse for the jumping time display while also “drives the balance with nearly uniform power across the entire run time.” The pusher at 4 o’clock is also new. This allows the hour indication to be separately switched, which makes setting the time quite a bit simpler. And as the newest Lumen model in a series dating to the first Zeitwerk ‘Lumious’ from 2010, the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen employs the watchmaker’s specially developed lightpermeable dial coating. This means all the numerals on the digital time discs – even those not visible on the dial – will absorb enough light needed to make them glow in the dark. As you might expect from any watch leaving Lange headquarters Glashütte, this 41.9mm watch is finished to perfection. You’ll find hand-engraved balance and escapewheel cocks, sunray-pattern winding wheels and filigreed, straight-grained constant-force escapement bridge that accommodates two recessed, screwed gold chatons. Limited to 200 watches, the Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen is attached to a handsome dark-brown leather strap. Price: $145,000.

BOUTIQUE 32 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

The new watch also boasts Caliber L043.9, a new movement iteration. A. Lange & Söhne has updated the movement with a 72-hour power reserve, doubling the reserve of its predecessor model. This extends the oper ating time as it powers Zeitwerk’s three-disc jumping digital numerals mechanism.

BOUTIQUE SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 33

BY STEVE LUNDIN INSIDE HEGID’S APPROACHMODULAR Hegid builds watches around the concept of interchangeability. Hegid designs are inspired by watchmaking icons and by fashion. 34 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

The Maison developed the evolutionary watchmaking concept

What does the name Hegid mean?

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 35

Buyers receive a capsule, the core of the watch itself, and can customize with di erent bezels and bands, changing the basic look of the watch while retaining the fundamental style. If you are a consumer looking for complications, keep moving.

Hegid watches are minimalistic, with the most complicated sporting a date window. Simply put, they tell time.

Hegid watches are built around the concept of interchangeability.

THE MOST IMPORTANT FINDINGS SURROUND AN INTEREST IN SIMPLICITY AND BRAND LOYALTY.

It is these attributes that deﬁne the Hegid approach: simple watches that can be customized within the brand itself, in the same manner as Pandora jewelry. In short, providing a path for a customer to build a collection within one brand.

FRENCH WATCH COMPANY HEGID IS BUILDING A BRAND AROUND MILLENNIAL BEHAVIOR AND BUYING PATTERNS.

IW sat down with brand founders Henrick Gauche, Grégory Gauche and Emeric Delalandre for an in-depth interview on everything from the brand philosophy to North American expansion.

Ownership and line expansion, and therefore loyalty, is encouraged through the handsome wooden case that accompanies the purchase of a watch. The case is akin to the old G.I. Joe footlockers of the 1960s, and is based on the same principal: provide a consumer with a space for accessories and they will ﬁll it up. This enables buyers to expand their collection while staying within the brand.

Hegid is betting on this age-old razor/razor blade theory of marketing, combined with the millennial interest in all things simple, to grow its presence within crowded craft watchmaking space.

• Laboratoire: A very elegant case for a perfect dress watch. Its art deco lines, especially on its lugs, make it both reﬁned and comfortable. Perfect with a suit at an o cial dinner.

• Expedition: A very robust, masculine, rectangular case with a look inspired by the legendary all-terrain vehicles. These powerful and protective lines inspire the drawings of many children and the dreams of many adults. Perfect for an expedition in the countryside during the weekend.

• Vision: A professional carrure (case) for a useful tool watch. Its eye on its rotating bezel is a useful indicator and gives it a unique style. Perfect with jeans and a t-shirt.

36 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

to o er to enthusiasts the unprecedented possibility to be the architects of their timepieces on a daily basis. The elements composing the Hegid watches have a diverse range of inﬂuences, making the brand global. In Hegid, there are also references to the names of the founders. What constitutes the Hegid line?

There are currently four lines of cases in Hegid, which, with the capsules and the strap they will be associated with, will give a unique style to the Hegid watch. These are:

• Mirage: A hexagonal case with a look that comes from the end of the 60s. The bold lines of the Italian cars at the genesis of ‘Wedge Design’ inspired the aerodynamic (especially the Lamborghini Miura) curves of the Mirage. Perfect to drive a

One of Hegid’s co-founders, Henrick Gauché, imagined the concept of the timeless watch that evolves over time to always match an individual’s attire of the day. In addition to being a watch enthusiast, he worked for many years as a retailer of luxury timepieces in France.

Our average consumer is thirty-ﬁve years old, and Hegid represents their ﬁrst luxury watch. Like most companies, we have found that 70% are male, and don’t see themselves in the other luxury brands.

Who are the customers for your watches and what is their behavior like?

Hegid commercially launched at Baselworld 2019, after three years of strategic planning and the development of the Maison’s patented EVOL system. In an industry led by powerful brands and the same iconic models worn by the majority, Hegid wants to give back the power to the consumers and let them create the watch they actually want to wear on a daily basis.

There have been several companies that have experimented with the concept of an interchangeable accessory watch. Why will Hegid be successful at this?

Created under the guidance of the brand’s artistic director, Jerôme Coste, Hegid elements are then a ready-made idea for a gift, and each new element multiplies the number of possible combinations.

Hegid checks all the boxes for a great luxury watch, and the fact that they can change out the look for a fraction of the price of buying another watch is a major appeal. Eighty percent of our buyers are from Europe and represent the philosophy of “people don’t judge me by the price of my watch.”

Other watchmaking proposed in the past interchangeable watches, but Hegid simpliﬁed the concept in allowing the users to easily transform their timepieces, in a few seconds, to adapt to desires and situations. After purchasing a Hegid watch, anyone can upgrade it with a new carrure, a new capsule or a new strap.

Twenty to thirty percent aﬁcionados who change their watches up weekly. The majority change only once per month.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 37

The word Global in the Hegid name means that our design inspirations can come from both watchmaking icons and other worlds. Thus, the classic shape of the Laboratoire or the sporty Vision come alongside more original shapes such as the Expedition or the Hegid’sMirage.concept allows the users to make their own styles out of the materials and designs o ered by the brand. Hegid’s mission is then to o er an unprecedented variety in the cases o ered. The Maison’s Artistic Director, Jerôme Coste, who does not come from the watchmaking industry, has the role to provide new sources of inspiration outside of watchmaking, to bridge the gap between watchmaking and fashion.

vintage supercar on the French Riviera.

Henrick observed a shift of clientele and noticed that the new generation of luxury consumers were not addressed with the right o ers by the historical brands, at a fair price point with sustainable, personalized and playful watches. Encouraged by its customers excited by the promise of an innovative watchmaking, he then decided, with his two partners to make Hegid a reality.

Thus, the creation of the ultimate version of this caliber. Every brand using Sellita movements has its secret sauce. Hegid’s is to make them hard to unsettle and stronger to be more durable. Our movement can change in the future when we will bring more features but will always have the same durability-reparably dual approach.

38 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Sellita being independent, they can deliver parts to every registered watchmaker on demand. This makes a big di erence at a time when, for most brands, you must go to their after-sale service, and then they send the watches to the global after-sales service center, and you sometimes wait several months for your watch. This helped us to choose Sellita instead of ETA. ETA, as a part of the Swatch Group, with the ComCo a air, will be obliged to stop the delivery of parts of their movements to companies outside of their group at some point, which means that our watches wouldn’t be repairable if Hegid doesn’t joint the Swatch group. We didn’t want this. The SW200-H movement made in collaboration with Sellita is therefore the best choice for our customers in terms of

Hegid claims a French touch in high-end watchmaking. First, Hegid EVOL invention can be related to the freedom approach of fashion by enabling enthusiasts to complete their watch collection more frequently, for less investment. Watchmaking is also often associated with social status. Hegid’s customers express their independence through their watch creations. Hegid is proudly made in France, a singularity that stands out in watchmaking. France, which is the country of luxury, is unfortunately underrated in horology. Only the connoisseurs know that, more than being the country of freedom and of fashion (both being Hegid’s values), France is the home of some of the best artisans working for the most prestigious and unique brands of theItindustry.iswiththis savoir-faire, which recently joined the UNESCO cultural patrimony, that Hegid is producing its timepieces. Like every luxury creative brand, Hegid has an art director who manages all the brand’s public communications and prepares the future collaborations.

Jerôme Coste was once the founder of the haute couture helmet brand Ruby, which allowed him to become a ﬁgure of the Parisian creative scene. He then collaborated with major designers in the international fashion industry.

Our customer walks out of the store with starter box, which ranges from $3,500- $5,000 for watch and a capsule. The buyer usually purchases a second strap at the time and may add more accessories at a later time as they discover more about the brand. Hegid watches are built around the concept of interchangeability. Buyers receive a capsule, the core of the watch itself, and can customize with di erent bezels and bands, changing the basic look of the watch while retaining the fundamental style. How does Hegid reﬂect a French design sensibility?

In terms of speciﬁcations, our movements are delivered to our customers with a special and precise regulation.

All the setting operations are made by a renowned French expert watchmaking atelier in Morteau, in the Doubs area of France. Even if a lot of people tend to say that Sellita can be less than ideal, we want to claim that Sellita’s movement are globally awesome, very qualitative and reliable if you choose the high ﬁnishes and new movements. This needs to be highlighted.

Sellita has existed for years, and some of the most prestigious brands use their base-movement in their new watches.

On Hegid’s capsules, there are movements that we ask Sellita to specially produce for us. They are made in La Chaux-de-Fonds, at the French-Swiss border. They are SW200-H, based on their famous Top Grade model (the high-end finish of this line) with additional specifications that makes our movements di erent from the others. We decided to select only the very finest individual components to create the SW200-H for Hegid timepieces.

What is the buying process?

Last but not least, Hegid’s promise being the durability for customers, we had to choose a movement that was both reliable and easy to be serviced or repaired by most qualiﬁed watchmakers all around the world.

Hegid believes that creativity is essential to make a watch brand appealing in the long-term and that is why his role is key in the company’s decision-making process, which is not traditional in horology. “Make your evolution” is Hegid’s tagline. At a time when everything is changing, the Maison invites you to “Make your Evolution,” whether in your imagination or on the wrist. Tell us about the movements.

quality and durability. Except the movement, the dial and the hands of the watches (which come from Switzerland) the rest of a Hegid timepiece (85%) is mostly made in France by cutting-edge artisans. From Paris to Morteau, the creativity and the rigor of artists, designers, manufacturers, and even French leather craftsmen (Sibra) proudly enable the manufacture of Hegid watches. All of the brand’s collaborators are at the forefront of their respective arts, by operating in a respectful and sustainable way in their environment. The geographic proximity of production and regular monitoring of everyone’s work, allows Hegid to ensure the excellence of its timepieces. When it comes to high-end objects made to last for decades, there can be no concession in their manufacture.

What’s in the works for line expansion and will there be any changes forthcoming? The most diverse inspirations follow one another in the brand’s creations, which are released at the rhythm of the fashion seasons. Hegid seeks to regularly nurture the creative minds of its current and future customers. By o ering the possibility of transforming its watch to always be in tune with the present moment, Hegid invites everyone to evolve more regularly. There will be new cases and new straps, some designed by Hegid, others in collaboration with artisans and brands. Hegid is also developing accessories, which complete the brand universe of its wristwatches. In the pipeline, the current 34mm capsule will soon be the medium size of Hegid watches and will be complemented by another capsule that will be smaller and thinner small size. Later, a larger collection designed to allow more complications for the capsule should also arrive. All these lines will, of course, be equipped with the EVOL system and will continue to o er the possibility to evolve over time.

How are you marketing these products?

Hegid is a global brand for the creative souls, inspired by the Artisans of Change (the new master craftsmen reinterpreting the traditional savoir-faire and the entrepreneurs exploring new virtuous models).

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 39

While most brands target a speciﬁc audience (diving, aviation, business, fashion enthusiasts, etc.), Hegid believes that anyone can mix and match elements from di erent inﬂuences in their very own way to create a unique watch for any occasion. The brand universe attracts individuals that embrace the future, that like to be unique, and who don’t need to be reassured by a logo or a recognizable model. What are the plans regarding awareness and a dealer network in the United States?

Hegid already has hundreds of customers with a satisfactory rate of 94%, and the concept of recurring purchases allowed by the EVOL invention is being proved by the 1.8 cases and 2.4 straps purchased per year per capsule owner ﬁgures. As a result, some of the brand’s collections are already sold out. Hegid convinced the most prestigious retailers of its local market and is distributed by leading stores like Printemps Haussmann or La Samaritaine (DFS) in Paris. The brand recently arrived in the United States, starting with Manfredi in Connecticut, and will continue to expand with cutting-edge watchmaking boutiques and department

The early adopters of the Maison’s products are the young generation (twenty to ﬁfty years old) of luxury consumers, looking for more creative styles and an intelligent acquisition of mechanical watches. They love the traditional idea of the timepiece made to last for a lifetime and they appreciate the ability to change it whenever they desire. The fact that they are the architect of their individual daily styles make them consider Hegid at their timepiece of Aschoice.mentioned before, Hegid is inspired by the Artisans of Change (the new master craftsmen reinterpreting the traditional savoirfaire and the entrepreneurs exploring new virtuous models) and will ﬁrst collaborate with some of them, which will indirectly be the ambassadors of Hegid.

40 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

If this watch had a brand ambassador who would that person be?

Usually, a brand ambassador reﬂects the target consumer of the brand. Hegid is not exclusive in its customer approach, so it is a hard question for which we do not have the answer.

Leonardo Di Vinci or Steve Jobs.

stores throughout the Americas in the coming months.

The French, Swiss and American press considers Hegid as one of the most promising brands of the future. The Hegid team is experiencing growth to facilitate the coming exciting projects and products.

Again, who would the ultimate brand ambassador be?

Liken this watch to others in the space - why is it unique?

Hegid stands for a creative, durable and evolutionary approach of horology by o ering watches with ﬁne automatic movements that will last for decades. The designs can be changed in seconds with only two ﬁngers. With the EVOL system, consumers don’t need to change of watch anymore, they just need a new case or strap to have a new style on their wrists. Additionally, the entire team behind Hegid is dedicated and has the long-term vision to implement a new standard in high-end watchmaking: the modular watch.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 41

WHILE WE’VE SEEN BARREL-SHAPED SPIRIT OF BIG BANG HUBLOT MODELS in recent years, this new collection, launched at Watches and Wonders 2022, is Hublot’s first with four corners. Echoing Big Bang and other Hublot case designs, the new the new Square Bang series features a ‘sandwich’ construction that o ers the wearer the same deep, architectural profile as most Hublot watches. And, just as aligned with Big Bang designs, the new Square Bang Unico features a largely sapphire dial to o er a clear view into the Unico movement, notably its column wheel (seen at the 6 o’clock position) and the date wheel. Even the hands here echo those seen on Big Bang models. Other parallels to existing Big Bang models include the 42mm case size, the six (functional) screws on the bezel and the case protectors on the crown side and the left side of the case. Hublot also extends its proven One Click strap-change system with two fixed screws to the new Square Bang collection. Hublot designed new textured pattern for the rubber strap that includes four rows (like the four sides of the case) of raised squares (like the bezel on the case). As noted above, Hublot will kick o the collection with five models. Three are in solid titanium, black ceramic or King Gold and the other two are cased in blended titanium or King Gold with a black ceramic bezel. One collection, the Square Bang Unico All Black, will be made as a limited edition of 250.

Prices: All Black (limited to 250 pieces): $26,200. Titanium Ceramic: $24,100. Titanium: $23,100. King Gold Ceramic: $39,900. King Gold: $43,100. Hublot adds a square-cased collection with Square Bang, a set of five chronograph watches set with the watchmaker’s Unico HUB1280 Unico Manufacture movement.

The Hublot Square Bang Unico, in titanium and ceramic.

Square Bang Unico Titanium

HUBLOT SQUARES BIG BANG

42 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Hublot Square Bang Unico All Black. SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 43

Up close on the Hublot Square Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic. The new Hublot Square Bang Unico, here in King Gold and ceramic. 44 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

perpetuate

and

accessibility to

luxury items,

years. Luxury

brands. Visit WWW.SHOPWORN.COM to discover our curated offers. The Authentic, Sustainable & Attainable Choice.

authentic,

collections.

ShopWorn is an elevated online shopping destination for customers who want to be the first to own guaranteed unused globally. ShopWorn guarantees all products are authentic and never previously owned. have been partnering with Luxury for over 20 brands turn to Shopworn as a sustainable way to past season’s Shopworn makes Luxury attainable offers amazing

brands

Global

Up close on the dial of the Hublot Square Bang Unico Titanium. The Hublot Square Bang Unico All Black. 46 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

ShopWorn is an elevated online shopping destination for customers who want to be the first to own guaranteed unused luxury items, globally. ShopWorn guarantees all products are authentic and never previously owned. have been partnering with Luxury for over 20 years. brands turn to Shopworn as a sustainable way to perpetuate past season’s Shopworn makes Luxury attainable and offers amazing

authentic,

brands

collections.

Luxury

accessibility to

brands. Visit WWW.SHOPWORN.COM to discover our curated offers. The Authentic, Sustainable & Attainable Choice.

Global

In the Double Mystery collection, Franck Muller replaces watch hands with two rotating discs, each with an arrow-shaped indicator. Patented in 1998, the technique allows Franck Muller to experiment by setting a colorful spectrum of gemstones across and atop of the two rotating discs. In this latest Double Mystery Peony, Franck Muller sets 662 diamonds and colored gemstones (4.87 carats) on each dial, all shaped and patterned across the dial to recall the namesake bloom. The watches, powered by an automatic movement topped with the Double Mystery complication, are o ered in white gold and yellow gold and in 42mm and 39mm cases. Price: $88,700.

Examples of the new Franck Muller Double Mystery Peony.

ANY VISITOR TO FRANCK MULLER’S VAST HEADQUARTERS IN GENTHOD, adjacent to Geneva, will vouch for the technical depth this manufacture exhibits throughout the facility. Case after case of watches set with tourbillons and multiple complications testify to decades of watchmaking with a distinctive style, typically built into a Curvex shaped case. But there’s much more to Franck Muller than its range of Master Bankers, large tourbillons and jaw-dropping skeleton models. Few watchmakers can match the wide-ranging ﬂ uency the brand also demonstrates year after year with its gem-set collections.

Franck Muller has again paired its technical chops with its gem-setting expertise with the release of the new Double Mystery Peony, which combines gemstone setting and its enchanting Double Mystery time display system.

FRANCK MULLER’S LATEST MYSTERIESGEM-SET

48 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 49

BY THOMPSON

RECORDSBREAKINGCONTINUESBULGARI 50 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Bulgari celebrates the eighth anniversary of its ultra-thin, record-breaking Octo Finissimo collection by introducing another record-breaking watch, the Octo Finissimo Ultra, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch. Measuring 1.80mm thick and 40mm in diameter, the new watch is Bulgari’s eighth watch breaking a record for its thinness, bypassing Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch from 2018, which measures 2.0mm thick.

WITH OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA AND A TINY MANUAL-WIND MOVEMENT FOR SERPENTI, THE ITALIAN-SWISS WATCHMAKER KEEPS IT THIN.

The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra, the world’s thinnest watch.

Bulgari says it had to rethink how even its own approach to achieving such thin cases and movements in order to ensure both rigidity and functionality. Step one is to combine the movement with the case, which essentially makes the watch its

Bulgari’s’ impressive run of record-breaking Octo Finissimo watches began in 2014 with the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual, and extended into last year’s Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar.

MICHAEL

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 51

Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo debuts since 2014 include watches that demonstrate an impressive range of timekeeping, acoustic and astronomical complications in addition to their ultra-thin profile.

52 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

own movement and places all its components onto one plane. Thus, Bulgari uses the new watch’s case back as a main plate on which it builds all 170 components of the BVL Calibre 180. Bulgari achieved the required rigidity by making the case middle, case back/ main plate, bezel and titanium lugs from a dense, hard and ultraresistant combination of carbon and tungsten. Bulgari uses the same material to construct the bracelet, which is required to integrate perfectly into the case with the same thinness.

To resolve the thinness problem presented by the traditional winding crown, Bulgari devised two horizontal, knurled knobs for this watch. One knob (at the 8 o’clock position) is for winding and the other for setting (at the 3 o’clock position). Both can be handled when the watch is on the wrist.

Price: 400,000 euros (about $440,000).

Bulgari has ﬁled eight patent applications for this watch. They relate to the watch glass assembly, barrel structure, oscillator module, di erential display, modular structure, bracelet, bimetal case middlemain plate/case back, as well as the Bulgari Singvlarity technology. Unusually, Bulgari has engraved a QR code on the watch’s large barrel ratchet wheel. The code opens an online space dedicated to the watch that will feature interviews, making-of segments, a virtual 3D tour of the movement, and an exploration of the visible/ invisible concept linked to the watch. Each of the ten owners of the Octo Finissimo Ultra will also receive an exclusive NFT artwork guaranteeing the authenticity of the watch and the link to its owner.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 53

54 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 55

The wearer views the time on the new Serpenti models by pressing the snake’s tongue, revealing the diamond-set dial. A bidirectional crown on the caseback controls winding and time setting. With its new Piccolissimo caliber, Bulgari expects to extend its dominance of ultra-thin watchmaking to what have traditionally been ‘ladies’ sizes with small diameters and high gemstone counts.

“We believe this is the smallest round caliber currently on the market, and it opens up a new world of possibilities for us in this collection and beyond,” notes Antoine Pin, managing director of BulgariBulgariWatches.launches the new caliber inside four lacquered and gem-set Serpenti Misteriosi watches. With this 2022 debut, Bulgari re-establishes a mechanical time display within the Serpenti collection. The watch and jewelry maker debuted Serpenti in the 1950s outﬁtted with manual-wind calibers but in recent years has equipped the line with quartz movements. With only a few very limited exceptions, the Serpenti lines have been powered by quartz calibers since the late 1980s. In addition to the new mechanical caliber, the Serpenti Misteriosi o ers a wholly new convertible option: Each watch is designed to be worn on eitherBulgariwrist.has cleverly devised an interchangeable movement housing for Serpenti Misteriosi that can be removed from within the snake’s head and turned in the other direction to be visible on the left or right arm. The movement Bulgari explains that it builds the new BVL100 caliber with 102 components that in total weigh a mere 1.3 grams. In order to power the hands, watchmakers ﬁt a 170mm-long mainspring into a barrel that measures 5mm thick and 1.47 mm across. And to ensure the greatest inertia, Bulgari opted for a white gold balance wheel.

Highlighting its LVMH Watch Week earlier in 2022, Bulgari unveiled BVL100, a new miniature mechanical movement, which Bulgari places inside the head of new snake-shaped Serpenti bracelet watches.Bulgari dubs the new movement Piccolissimo (Italian for “very small”), and it is indeed one of the smallest mechanical calibers available, measuring a wispy 12.30mm in diameter and 2.50mm thick.

Mini Movement for Serpenti

LOOK FOR AN ALL-NEW, FULLY INTEGRATED TITANIUM BRACELET ECHOES THE UNUSUAL ELLIPTICAL SHAPE OF THE WATCH’S CASE AND BEZEL.

Earlier this year Greubel Forsey expanded on that sporty debut by adding its ﬁrst metal bracelet. The all-new, fully integrated titanium bracelet echoes the unusual elliptical shape of the watch’s case and bezel, complete with the high level of ﬁnishing you’d expect from Greubel Forsey.

You might recall that when this high-end watchmaker ﬁrst showed the world the GMT Sport in 2019, the watch’s distinctive ovoid bezel attracted just as much attention as the watch’s new movement. The movement featured such Greubel Forsey specialties as a Tourbillon 24 Seconds and eye-catching threedimensional GMT globe.

BY MICHAEL THOMPSON

The new bracelet here might garner outsized attention given its premiere status for this brand. Greubel Forsey has devised a three-link bracelet ﬁnished with many of the same styles we see on the 45mm by 15.7mm mm case and bezel, notably straight graining, frosting and top-tier hand-polished beveling.

GREUBEL FORSEY UPDATES GMT SPORT 56 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Greubel-Forsey notes that it opted to frost-finish the lugs to better emphasize how the case and bracelet link directly along an uninterrupted row. The somewhat darker frosting continues along both edges of the bracelet as well, underscoring the visual unity of the two Functionally,components.thebracelet features a fine adjustment system that allows the wearer to quickly loosen or tighten the bracelet’s fit. The watch will also arrive with a blue rubber strap with text in relief and a titanium folding clasp with engraved logo.

The new Greubel Forsey GMT Sport, with the brand’s first-ever metal bracelet, here made in titanium.

The watch will also arrive with a blue rubber strap with text in relief and a titanium folding clasp with engraved logo. GMT Sport back view SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 57

While adding a bracelet to the GMT Sport, Greubel Forsey has also removed something. That GMT Sport’s wide, undulating bezel is now free of the raised engraved text espousing the brand’s values. Instead the elliptical bezel, which curves gently at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock, is cleaner, sporting expert hand-ﬁnished horizontal straight graining on top and a hand-polished frame.

In addition, instead of reading words like ‘perfection’ and ‘harmonie’ the wearer can focus on the GMT Sport’s intricate, multi-dimensional dial components and displays amid the watch’s bright new blue and titanium color scheme.

The GMT globe, ﬁrst seen in 2011 and used within the GMT Black in 2015, displays the second time zone (as seen on the auxiliary dial just above at 10 o’clock). When the wearer combines this with the globe’s universal time display, he or she can read the current time anywhere in the world. And of course a wearer can enjoy the whirling Tourbillon 24 Secondes, positioned between 12 o’clock and 2 o’clock, which contributes to the watch’s high level of precision.

CLEAN BEZEL

Greubel Forsey will make the new GMT Sport with the new titanium bracelet in a limited edition of thirty-three units. The price has not yet been announced, though the previous GMT Sport was priced at $500,000.

Indeed, the new color scheme of this GMT Sport highlights a matte blue ﬁnish on the mainplate, bridges, globe, second time zone dial and 24-second indicator ring of the Tourbillon 24 Seconds. The color nicely contrasts with the polished components of the steel and titanium movement components.

58 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

In addition, to draw attention to new blue color scheme Greubel Forsey has decided to skeletonize the highly visible central suspended arched bridge and the tourbillon bridge. That color splashes across the multi-level dial plates, replacing the dark grey hue of the previous GMT Sport. Between the blue plates wearers can check the time via a central hours and minutes display while eyeing a second time zone at 10 o’clock, a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and the GMT rotating terrestrial globe at 8 o’clock.

The Time has come to learn a new German word: “Zeitmeister”. ZEITMEISTER LARGE DATE Wempe Zeitmeister large date chronometer. 42mm stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, automatic movement with second time zone. Certiﬁed to German DIN standard. $2,890. Exclusively at Wempe.

Grand Seiko introduced five sport models in its Evolution 9 collection during its debut appearance at Watches and Wonders earlier this year. And echoing many of the other high-end watchmakers at the Geneva show, Grand Seiko also focused its debuts on titanium-cased designs. But unlike all other watchmakers, Grand Seiko is able to o er a level of precision rare for any pure mechanical o ering thanks to its proprietary Spring Drive movement, a mechanical-electronic hybrid built and finished to high watchmaking standards. Within its relatively new Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko adds two GMT models (SBGE283 and SBGE285), two Chronograph GMT models (SBGC249, a blue-dialed 15th Anniversary Limited Edition, and SBGC251), and a 200-meter dive watch with caliber 9RA5 (SLGA015), a movement with an impressive five-day power reserve. All these titanium-cased watches o er screw-down crowns and a strong anti-magnetic resistance to 4,800 A/m. For the debuts, Grand Seiko has refined its cases as well as various dial details. All the new models benefit from wider lugs and thicker bracelets. Also note the collection’s bolder hands that point to a new font along the bezel, notably on the GMT models. In addition, Grand Seiko now coats all its hands and indexes with more Lumibrite than we’ve seen previously. In addition, crown guards are somewhat smoother than on earlier sports models.

GRAND SEIKO ADDS FIVE TITANIUM WATCHES TO EVOLUTION 9.

60 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

SPORTY TITANIUM

Spring Drive GMT These two 41mm debuts feature highly textured pattern dials in either black (SBGE283) or light gray (SBGE285). Both o er a box-shaped sapphire crystal, a 72-hour power reserve and are powered by Spring Drive Caliber 9R66, which o ers incredible precision of plus or minus 1 second per day. Price: $8,400, and available in August.

New (SBGE283)DriveSpringGMT One of two new Spring Drive GMT (SBGE285)models

Evolution 9 Sport SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 61

The ﬁrst of the two new 45.3mm Evolution 9 chronographs features a blue dial and o ers a higher rate of accuracy than the already phenomenal one-second per day. This Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph 15th anniversary edition (SBGC249) is adjusted to achieve an enhanced accuracy rate of just half-a-second per day, (or plus or minus 10 seconds per month) and is o ered as a limited edition of 700. In addition to the 12-hour chronograph, the watch also features a rotating bezel and a GMT hand. Price: $12,400. The black-dialed version (SBGC251) delivers the standard high accuracy of 1-second per day (±15 seconds per month) and otherwise o ers the same design and speciﬁcations as the limited edition. Price: $11,400.

Model ModelSBGC249SBGC251 62 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

TWO CHRONOGRAPHS

Inspired by the Kuroshio Current, also known as the Black Stream, the dial echoes the darkness visible in the waters that ﬂow northwards past Japan towards the North Paciﬁc. The Black Stream’s darkness inspired Grand Seiko’s artisans to create the new watch’s particularly evocative dial.

Powered by Spring Drive Caliber 9RA5, the new 43.8mm by 13.8mm titanium dive watch o ers an accuracy rate of ±10 seconds per month and a ﬁve-day power reserve. The diver’s hands are among the boldest we’ve seen on a Grand Seiko dial, and this bezel among the most robust. In fact, Grand Seiko has forged the bezel’s inside from ceramic to reduce the possibility of scratching. Price: $11,600.

“Black Stream” Model SLGA015 SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 63

DIVE WATCH

Finally, Grand Seiko adds an impressive new 200m diver’s watch (SLGA015) to the Evolution 9 collection. As is often the case at Grand Seiko, the watch’s textured black dial arrives on your wrist already wrapped up with an inspiring origin story.

64 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

GRAND AND COMPLICATED

Price: $350,000, a limited edition of 20.

The new Grand Seiko TourbillonConstant-forceKodo

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 65

Grand Seiko notes that the sounds of both the escapement and of the once-per-second impulse actually harmonize to deliver a musically recognizable sixteenth note (a semi-quaver).

Grand Seiko also debuted its ﬁrst mechanical complication watch during Watches and Wonders. Named for the Japanese word for heartbeat, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (SLGT003) combines a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis for the very ﬁrst time. The watch’s inner tourbillon carriage rotates eight-beats per second and the outer constantforce carriage follows its rotation at exact one-second intervals.

The constant-force carriage and tourbillon carriage are integrated and on a single axis, which means no other components separate the two mechanisms. The e ect of this design negates any loss in the torque transmitted from the constant-force mechanism to the balance wheel. As a result, the constant-force mechanism allows for a full ﬁfty hours of fully stableCasedamplitude.inplatinum and titanium, the 43.8mm watch houses caliber 9ST1, Grand Seiko’s tour-de-force movement that boasts the highest frequency (28,800 vph) ever to incorporate a constant-force mechanism.

Zenith began celebrating El Primero’s fi ftieth anniversary in 2019. Starting with those fi rst celebratory revivals of Chronomaster El Primero designs, which included the El Primero A386, A384 and A385 Revival models, and up to the most recent Chronomaster Revival Safari, the Le Locle-based watchmaker kept its dial and case designs largely true to their historic proportions and, often, retroButhues.asZenith admits, none of these Revival models fi lled a void within its ongoing collections for a steel-cased vintage-tinged Chronomaster El Primero model. Sure, the hot Chronomaster Sport Zenith debuted early in 2021 has seemingly met the demand for a new, sportier El Primero chronograph, but for dressier El Primero o erings customers have only been able to choose from a series of strictly Revival designs.

NEW

ORIGINAL FILLS A VOID 66 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Zenith however updates several key elements of the now familiar Chronomaster Revival proﬁ le. First, Zenith replaces the retro 1960s ladder bracelet found on the recent Revival models with a new, richly-ﬁ nished solid-link bracelet. CHRONOMASTERZENITH

The rose gold model features a silvered dial with tri-color subdials. It will be sold on a brown calfskin strap.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 67

Essentially, Zenith has toughened Defy’s speciﬁcations, starting with the case. Defy Extreme’s 46mm case size is larger than the 44mm case Zenith uses within the existing Defy collection. Zenith has reinforced the new case by adding extended pusher protection and a screw-down crown that, when combined with a thicker clear sapphire caseback, doubles the water resistance from the existing Defy rating of 100 meters to 200 meters for the new collection.

Zenith is making three Defy Extreme models, all cased in microblasted titanium. Two matte-ﬁnished titanium models (both $18,000) di er with a blue or black-colored mainplate and pusher protectors with matching rotor ﬁnishes, while the third model ($22,000) glows with rose gold bezel ring and pusher protectors on the titanium case and rose-gold-hued main plate and accents.

68 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

PRACTICAL SCALE More notably however Zenith updates the tachymeter scale, replacing the original 1/100th-of-an-hour calculation scale with a 1/10-of-a-second chronograph scale. This allows instantaneous reading of a 10th of a second using the newly straight, red-lacquered chronograph seconds hand. The logo has also been updated to the Zenith’s more contemporary script. Within the case Zenith fi ts the primary reason for this change of tacymetric scale: the latest version of the El Primero caliber, dubbed the El Primero 3600. Also found powering the hot new Zenith Chronomaster Sport (and originally seen in an earlier, very limited Chronomaster 2), the caliber of course retains the El Primero’s signature high frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 VpH). Thus, with a central chronograph seconds hand that rotates once around the dial in exactly ten seconds, the movement o ers a true 1/10th-of-second indication in conjunction with the new scale. And now that the scale frames the dials of both the Chronomaster Sport and this new Chronomaster Original design, Zenith now o ers two ongoing collections with this most practical utililization of its high-speed El Primero caliber. In addition to its new application, the new El Primero 3600 features a newly blued column wheel and “new architecture” that Zenith says is more e cient than earlier El Primeros. The new e ciency also infl uences the caliber’s power reserve, which is now rated to sixty hours. Zenith is o ering the new Chronomaster Original in four steelcased models. One model, sold on a steel bracelet or a blue calfskin strap, features the well-known Chronomaster tri-color dial confi guration. Another model features a so-called ‘reverse panda’ black dial with silver chronograph registers and is sold on a steel bracelet or a beige calfskin strap. Intrestingly, these two models use a rhodium-plated central seconds hand rather than the red central seconds hand found on the tri-color dial versions. Both steel-bracelet models are priced at $9,000 while both strap models are priced at $8,400. The third model ($19,100) is cased in rose gold and features a silvered dial with tri-color subdials. It will be sold on a brown calfskin strap.

Three models

Defy Extreme extends the ongoing theme of the Defy El Primero 21 collection, a series of skeletonized, often colorful, high-speed (36,000 vph) timekeepers paired with an extra-fast (360,000 vph) chronographs, cased together in highly technical ceramic, titanium, carbon or steel dress. With the new collection, Zenith has a true high-impact sport option for Defy fans wary that the existing Defy’s 21’s two escapements and its contemporary open work design left it vulnerable to physical stress and extreme elements.

Zenith reinforces its Defy to create Defy Extreme, three new models in the collection with ultra-high shock and water damage protection.Zenith’snew

Zenith Defy Goes Extreme

The new case is also rife with new angles, edges and lines. Even between the two crystals you’ll ﬁnd elements that, as Zenith puts it, exude “robustness.”

Most notably, Zenith has a placed a twelve-sided ring just underneath the bezel and on the twelve-sided caseback. The architectural ring nicely frames the dial while also adding another layer of shock protection to the movement. It serves to remind the wearer that Zenith has built an extra level of security into the Defy Extreme.

Zenith is supplying each watch with three di erent straps with quick strap-change mechanisms: A micro-blasted or polished and satin-brushed titanium bracelet, a rubber strap with a folding buckle matching the case and, in a ﬁrst for Zenith, a Velcro strap that can be easily adjusted.

The new andhereChronomasterZenithOriginal,withasteelcasebracelet.

The-new-El-Primero 3600 caliber offers a 1/10th-of-second-display from the 36,000-VpH escapement, all with an extended power reserve of 60 hours.

ADDS

The swirled, high-tech carbon pattern and dark hue o ers a starker contrast to Doxa’s colorful dial and strap options than we’ve seen with the collection’s existing steel models. And all are currently o ered only on black or color-matched rubber straps, unlike the steel-bracelet option seen within the steel-cased examples.

A year after Doxa launched a small-production series of SUB 300 Aqua Lung watches with a forged carbon case, the famed independent Swiss dive watchmaker revisits that high-tech case for the new SUB 300 Carbon collection, a non-limited, eye-catching array with six colorful dial and matching strap options. At the same time, Doxa launches these bright new SUB 300 models at Watches of Switzerland locations in the United States, marking the brand’s ﬁrst o cial brick-and-mortar distribution in years. Previously, Doxa sold its watches only online through its e-commerce web site. With the new Watches of Switzerland partnership, shoppers can try on the full Doxa collection at all Watches of Switzerland retail store, as well as online.

The new collection expands Doxa’s use of color within its SUB 300 collection, which already includes a range of colorful steelcased options. Now with the forged carbon case, the newest collection sets six dial colors, including navy blue, turquoise, orange, yellow, silver and black, framed within the patterned matte black forged carbon case and unidirectional bezel and blackened crown.

TO SUBCARBON-CASED300 70 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

DOXA COLOR

DoxaSPECIFICATIONS:SUB300 Carbon CASE: 42.50mm x 45.00mm x 13.40mm forged carbon, glass box sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotating forged carbon bezel, titanium chamber and screw-in case back, screw-down crown. water resistance to 300 meters. DIAL: Painted indices and hands with SuperLumiNova luminescent inserts, painted minute track. MOVEMENT: Automatic ETA-based, COSC-certiﬁ ed with power reserve of 38 hours, Doxa decorations. BRACELET: Black or matching dial color, folding clasp, PVD-coated, featuring the brand’s ﬁ sh symbol, diver’s wetsuit extension. PRICE: $3,890.DOXA Sub 300 Divingstar in yellow SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 71

Price: $3,890

Doxa touts its current SUB 300 collection as the heir to its groundbreaking original 1967 debut of the same name. Rated as water resistant to a depth of 300 meters feet, it was the first consumer watch to feature a unidirectional bezel with a dual indication of dive time and depth, according to Doxa. But the model itself gained fans for another reason as well: its full-on bright orange dial. Even as the SUB 300 Carbon’s 42.5mm case is lighter than the steel models, Doxa has been careful to maintain the full dive specs of the steel SUB 300. To that end, the watchmakers have fit the newest watch with a pressure-resistant titanium chamber and screw-down crown. The new series also features a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment that retains the same dome shape of the curved Plexiglas used for the original series in 1967. The COSCcertified ETA-based automatic movement provides a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. Doxa ensures an easy-to-read dial with a white dive time scale punctuated with a dot at 12 o’clock. The inserts of the bezel graduated in meters for depths are colored – either in orange, yellow or turquoise – for visual di erentiation, with a light dot at 12H. Generously set with SuperLumiNova, the dial’s hour indices are very clear, as is the dual indication of dive time in minutes and depth in meters on the (patented) unidirectional rotating bezel.

HISTORIC MODELS

72 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

KRUGER •Bead-blastedtitaniumcase, 1200HVhardnesscoating •SeikoVK63Mechaquartz movement •SwissSuper-LumiNova® BGW9dial •Double-domedsapphire crystalwithinnerantireflectivecoating •120-clickunidirectional bezel,ceramicinsert •300mwaterresistance Availableat

Frederique Constant has carefully considered its chromatic choices with this fourth dial option within the nicely priced Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture collection. Thus, we see an eye-pleasing contrast of white typography and mirror-polished and luminescent hour-markers and hands. At the center of the dial Frederique Constant places the Highlife collection’s signature guilloché Earth motif. Here we have a nicely integrated three-link bracelet, alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces. If you’d prefer a strap, Frederique Constant has you covered: the entire Highlife collection offers braceletto-strap interchangeability.

The Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture comes with a navy blue textured and stitched rubber extra strap that can be changed as desired without the need for tools. The back of the watch allows a clear view of the automatic Manufacture FC-775 caliber, which Frederique Constant has embellished with circular graining and Côtes de Genève decoration.

PERPETUAL STYLE FREDERIQUE CONSTANT EXPANDS PERPETUAL CALENDAR OPTIONS.

Frederique Constant adds a new blue-grey dial to its Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture collection, adding a stylish air to the Geneva manufacturer’s classical perpetual calendar dial layout.

The new deep blue-grey dial almost guarantees perfect legibility to the perpetual calendar’s myriad displays. These include: days and the phases of the moon, date, month and leap year – all in addition to the time of day.

74 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

FrederiqueSPECIFICATIONS:Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (Ref. FC-775BL4NH6B) DISPLAYS: Hours, minutes, moonphase, date, day, month, leap year MOVEMENT: Automatic FC-775 in-house caliber, perpetual calendar, Perlage & circular Côtes de Genève decorations, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph. CASE: 41mm by 12.65mm brushed and polished stainless steel three-part, convex sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating on both sides, see-through caseback, water-resistant to 50 meters. DIAL: Blue grey, globe decoration, silver color applied indexes ﬁlled with white luminous treatment, hand-polished silver color hour and minute hands ﬁlled with white luminous treatment, date counter at 3 o’clock with silver color hand, moonphase at 6 o’clock, day counter at 9 o’clock with silver color hand, month and (leap) year counter at 12 o’clock with silver color hands. BRACELET: Three-link brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet, includes an additional navy blue rubber strap. PRICE: $9,950. SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 75

76 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Copyright © 2019, Detroit Watch Company, LLC, All Rights Reserved explore the collection www.detroitwatchco.comat Exclusively Designed and Assembled by the Detroit Watch Company 42mm case, Swiss automatic self-winding Eta 2893-2. Exhibition caseback. PONTCHARTRAIN

Alpina has placed its retro-bumper caliber into an existing 42mm steel cushion-shaped case from its Startimer Pilot Heritage collection.

Alpina is limiting the new Startimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture to 188 pieces, each with a brown calfskin strap with o -white topstitching.

Alpina has updated a bygone mechanical caliber design to launch its Startimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture with a ‘bumper’ rotor that pings between springs, rotating 330 degrees instead of the 360-degree modern standard for automatic movements.

The dial also adds to the vintage look with its 1950s style cues, notably the three matching hands. Alpina also wisely places the watch’s crown at 4 o’clock, which enhances the case’s cushion proﬁ le. The 42mm case size and the sporty red accents add a contemporary edge.

The case nicely combines a circle in a square with rounded edges. A smartly satin-brushed and polished case middle further emphasizes the case’s dual geometry, which to my eye feels more inspired by watches from the 1970s than from those made in theAlpina1950s.has built its AL-709 caliber with an extended diameter that reaches to the edge of the round inner caseback, in part to underscore the watch’s Heritage message.

VINTAGE BUMPER 78 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

ALPINA REBOOTS A ‘BUMPER’ MOVEMENT TO LAUNCH ITS STARTIMER PILOT HERITAGE MANUFACTURE.

Price: $2,850.

A version of this type of to-and-fro oscillating ‘bumper’ weight was used in many early automatic Swiss watches starting from the late 1920s into the 1960s and could be found installed into watches from Omega, Universal Genève, Jaeger-LeCoultre–andTheAlpina.newCaliber AL-709 on this new Alpina watch, which is visible through the clear sapphire caseback, mimics the watchmaker’s own vintage ‘bumper’ movement from the 1950s. According to Alpina, the two calibers share “the same geometry and the same inspiration.” However, while the vintage version rotates 120°, the new one rotates 330°. In addition, Alpina has replaced the springs used in the vintage designs with more e cient blades.

Alpina’s vintage ‘bumper’ movement from the 1950s. SPECIFICATIONS:AlpinaStartimer Pilot Heritage Manufacture (Ref. AL-709SR4SH6, Limited edition of 188) MOVEMENT: Automatic AL-709 Manufacture caliber, 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 alt/h. CASE: 42mm by 13.25mm brushed and polished stainless steel 2-part, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, see-through case back, water-resistant to 100 meters. DIAL: Silver color with vertical brushed ﬁnishing, black minutes and seconds graduation, silver color indexes and hands with red luminous treatment. BRACELET: Brown calf leather strap with o -white stitching. SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 79

BY MICHAEL THOMPSON 80 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

As the watchmaker’s Watches and Wonders 2022 highlight, the new watch nicely extends the sartorial approach to dial and case design embodied within the entire Tonda PF collection, which Parmigiani Fleurier debuted last year to much acclaim. The new complication makes it a simple task to set and read two time zones. With two hour hands initially superimposed, the wearer need only press the pusher at 8 o’clock to advance the upper rhodium-plated gold hand dedicated to local time. Each press moves the hand one hour forward. This action reveals the rose gold hour hand, which displays time in the wearer’s home time. The watch is then set, and both hour hands will convey the time in both locations with no additional intervention.

ELEGANT FLYBACK SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 81

Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a terrific world-first complication within the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante that conveys ﬂyback capability to a subtle GMT hand, all powered by a new in-house PF051 caliber with a 48-hour power reserve.

Once the wearer returns home, he or she simply presses the crown-integrated rose gold pushbutton to instantly ‘ﬂy’ the gold hand back underneath the rhodium-plated hand.

These simple gestures engage a sophisticated fl yback mechanism that typically engages a chronograph seconds hand, which here does not exist. Instead of timing two separate events, the job of traditional fl yback complications, this patented Parmigiani Fleurier invention is employed to clear the dial of its third hand. This enables an even clearer view of the hand-wrought barleycorn guilloché pattern blue dial framed with a sandblasted minutes track. As with every steel-cased watch within the Tonda PF collection, this GMT is also further framed with a fi nely knurled singlepiece platinum bezel. For many at Watches and Wonders 2022, this Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante was among the show’s highlights. It is certainly the purest GMT we’ve seen and a welcome display of restraint, especially amid a torrent of grander world-timers and dual-timers. displayed across Geneva this year. Price: $26,800.

82 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph with Big Date adds two dial options: silver/grey and pomegranate. Price: CHF 43,100.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon, a 40mm platinumcased model with platinum micro-rotor. Price: $157,000.

Alongside the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, Parmigiani Fleurier presented four more novelties. Two, the Tonda PF Skeleton and the Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon, display the same knurled bezel, teardrop-shaped lugs and clean Grain d’Orge guilloché pattern dial. The two others are the sporty Tonda GT

Chronograph in Big Date and Annual Calendar in two new colors.

Also New from Parmigiani Fleurier

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton, two new 40mm models in rose gold and steel/platinum, set with black rubies. Prices: $97,400 (steel with platinum bezel) and $63,300 (rose gold).

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph with Big Date and annual calendar, also with same color options as above. Price: CHF 19,400.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph with Big Date. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph with Big Date and Annual Calendar. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT Chronograph with Big Date and Annual Calendar, in pomegranate. SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 83

84 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Launches

THE PERPETUAL CALENDAR IWC places its excellent 52615 caliber with Pellaton winding system (visible through the tinted sapphire caseback) into the new Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium (Ref. IW503604). The watch two barrels, in combination with its Pellaton winding system, o er an impressive seven-day power reserve.Theperpetual calendar is a complication that IWC has pioneered over decades. This example features a mechanical

IWC ADDS TWO CERATANIUM MODELS TO ITS TOP GUN COLLECTION, AND EACH DEBUT ALSO REPRESENTS A SPECIFIC TECHNICAL BREAKTHROUGH FOR THE SCHAFFHAUSEN-BASED WATCHMAKER.

The new IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium is the first Top Gun model with a Timezoner complication.

IWC Ceratanium Bracelet, Adds Timezoner to Top Gun

One of the pair, the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium, includes a Timezoner complication, marking the ﬁ rst time IWC has placed its unique world time display system into a Top Gun watch. The second debut, The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium, marks the debut of IWC’s ﬁ rst Ceratanium bracelet.Youmay recall that IWC introduced its black Ceratanium titanium-ceramic alloy in 2017 on its Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “50 Years Aquatimer.” IWC then added the proprietary alloy to the Top Gun collection two years later in the Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium.IWCexplains that Ceratanium combines titanium’s inherent lightweight and strength with a hardness and scratch-resistance similar to ceramic. The alloy is also skin-friendly and highly resistant to corrosion. Plus, the material is black, which makes for a perfect livery hue on any adventure or sports watch.

program that automatically recognizes di erent month lengths and leap years and will require no correction until 2100. The watch’s moon phase display, which depicts the moon as it is seen from the Northern and Southern Hemispheres, is also unusually precise. It will deviate by one day after 577.5 years, according to IWC.Price: $48,000 (Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Ceratanium, ref. IW503604). A limited edition of 150.

THE WORLDTIMER As noted earlier, IWC’s new Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium (Ref. IW395505) is the ﬁrst model in the collection with the Timezoner complication. The technology makes it particularly easy to set the watch to a di erent time zone. When pressing down and rotating the bezel, the watch’s hour hand, the 24-hour display and the date will move forwards or backwards in one-hour increments. IWC has printed this dial in grey and generously coated the numbers 12, 3, 6 and 9 with a luminescent material. Here IWC uses its 82760 caliber, also with the Pellaton winding system, which boasts a healthy sixty hours of power reserve. The wearer can view the movement via the watch’s tinted sapphire glass caseback.Price:$16,900 (Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium, ref. IW395505). A limited edition of 500.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 85

STEEL SKELETON 86 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

Maurice Lacroix also ﬁts the Aikon Automatic Skeleton 39mm with the brand’s Easy Strap Exchange system which allows the wearer to swap the bracelet for one of the leather or rubber strap options without using any tools.

Price: $3,450. Up close on the caseback of the new Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton.

MAURICE LACROIX SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 87

Unlike most of the watchmaker’s existing skeletonized watches, this new model measures only 39mm in diameter, making it the smallest –and ﬁrst unisex – openworked watch within the full Maurice LacroixCollectorscollection.familiar with Maurice Lacroix know that it has a long history of making skeleton watches. Especially within its Masterpiece collection, this contemporary manufacture has long o ered alluring openworked dials alongside a host of interesting models with multi-hand retrograde functions.

MAURICE LACROIX HAS WORKED WITH MOVEMENT SPECIALIST SELLITA TO CREATE A NEW SKELETONIZED VERSION OF THE WATCHMAKER’S BEST-SELLING AIKON.

Noting that it wanted to create an a ordable skeleton watch with the brand’s existing high quality-price ratio, Maurice Lacroix aimed to work with Sellita to “apply its expertise to the creation of a new, contemporary model with smaller case dimensions.”

With this new Aikon Automatic Skeleton 39mm, the company adds to existing work with the movement specialist to create Automatic ML115 (base SW200). With considerable transparency, circular grained finishing and combined sun-brushed and sandblasted décor, the new watch successfully says ‘contemporary’ within an often very classic mechanical watch category. Thus, instead of delicate filigree we see curved, mattefinished bridges that nicely expose the movement’s gearing and escapement while maintaining the torsional strength needed in a casually sporty watch.

The ALOR cable watchbands made for Apple will have an adjustable double deployant buckle and will sell from $325 to $375 for the nondiamond versions, and $895 to $1,295 for the diamond versions.

The California-based maker best known for its cable jewelry, launches a cable band made exclusively for the Apple watch. The bands will have two different size versions, an 8-row and a 10-row version. Each version of the bands will have a combination of 2.5mm and 2mm cables. The 8-row version will fit Apple watchcases in size from 38mm to 42mm. The 10-row version will fit 42mm – 45mm cases.Apple

ACCUTRON

88 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 COUTURE Gallery

Offering the world’s first fully electronic watch in 1960, Accutron changed the way the world told time with the most accurate timekeeping mechanism ever created and the first personal timekeeping advancement seen in 300 years. Its technology later became an integral component of America’s space program and the Accutron logo became a symbol to the consumer of timekeeping accuracy.For2022, Accutron expands its Spaceview 2020 collection with two new watches, both powered by Accutron’s own electrostatic energy technology. The first style boasts a smoke grey open-work dial with signature Accutron green accents and transparent outer ring, light green super luminous markers, hour and minute hands and orange second hand. Finished on a matching stainless steel bracelet, the watch is available for $3,850. The second style features a new green dial treatment with transparent outer ring, grey bridges, light green super luminous markers, hour and minute hands and orange second hand. Offered on a charcoal calf leather strap, the watch retails for $3,450. Both watches feature a 43.5mm polished stainless steel case with domed scratch resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance to 50 meters.

ALOR

One of Alpina’s best-known designs, the Super Compressor

That watch inspired

As the sporty older sister brand of Frederique Constant, Alpina is a pioneer within Swiss watchmaking, especially regarding innovation of adventure-themed timekeepers.

Alpina became the official supplier of watches to military pilots early in the last century before it advanced the entire concept of sports watches in 1938 with the legendary Alpina 4.

One of Alpina’s best-known designs, the Super Compressor 10 Seastrong dive watch, was first introduced in 1969. Water-resistant up to 200 meters, it was anti-magnetic and featured Super Compressor trademark casing: two crowns, one of which controls the internal rotating bezel, used to measure the passing of time on a scale of one to 60 Thatminutes.watchinspired this green-dialed example from Alpina’s Seastrong Diver 300 Heritage ($1,695). Thanks to its two push-buttons – one to set the time, the other to program its mobile rehaut – the latest addition to the family stands out as the ultimate automatic dive watch, measuring 42 mm across and water-resistant up to 300 meters.

ALPINA

Yvan and Dominique Arpa created the Son of Earth collection a decade ago, and among the collection’s most exotic series includes dials made with natural pigments. On this ArtyA Son of Earth Cosmos 2 ($12,000) you’ll find a dial made with gold leaves and diamonds dust, all gathered within a 44mm steel-case. Its hands are powered by ArtyA’s own custom-made Aion automatic COSC-certified movement, visible through the clear sapphire caseback. All this beauty is attached to the wrist with a handmade leather strap. In the U.S., ArtyA is distributed by BeauGeste Luxury brands, which offers a selection of Arpa’s singular designs on its website. Or contact BeauGeste at 212-847-1371.

ARTYA Swiss-based Yvan Arpa may not be a horological household name, but he is one of the true charismatic characters in modern watches. Avant-garde only scratches the surface of his raging design demeanor as he fearlessly walks the watch road less traveled.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 89 COUTURE Gallery

This newest dive model, the 42mm BR 03-92 Diver White ($3,990), is inspired by frozen watery worlds. Its dial is adorned with white, a rare shade from Bell & Ross. The Diver White’s self-winding BR-CAL 302 caliber can withstand very low temperatures, which makes it perfect for deep dives. Indeed, the BR 03-92 Diver White meets the demanding specifications of the Swiss diving watch as it meets complying the ISO 6425 dive watch standard. The case is waterproof to 300 meter and its unidirectional rotating bezel is graduated over 60 minutes, with a luminescent dot at 12 o’clock. This notched element is used to calculate decompression stops. A crown protector prevents accidental manipulations of the crown while the watch’s hands and indices are coated with a SuperLuminova, emitting a bright green color in the dark.

BELL & ROSS

90 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 COUTURE Gallery

Bell & Ross draws its inspiration from the history of aviation and the military specifications that accompany it. Its collections pay tribute to the timekeepers that the military have used throughout history on land, sea or in the air, including First World War pocket watches, Second World War flight instruments with special functions and 1960s instrument panels.

BULOVA Bulova’s industry innovations included everything from pioneering standardized production of watches to developing the first fully electronic watch with proprietary tuningfork based technology making it at the time the most accurate watch in the world. For 2022, Bulova expands its vintage-inspired collection of military watches with the new Avigation Hack A-11, an updated version of WWII-era Bulova A-11 watch. With a now-small 32mm case, the original A-11 was specially made forThenavigation.newmodel ($450) retains the original’s clean dial and distinctive coin edge case while expanding its color options and, literally, its case size (now at 37mm). Bulova is purposefully differentiating the new Avigation A-11 Hack watch from the many other military watches in its collection with a more contemporary color combination, namely a blue dial with red accents on a brown NATO strap.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 91 COUTURE Gallery

G-SHOCK

CITIZEN

The premier anti-shock watchmaker, G-Shock continues its reign as the king of tough timepieces build with the latest in technological features. This newest model, the GMWB5000MB-1 ($600), is a new addition to a line of premium full metal series shockresistant watches. Based on the original G-SHOCK, the GMWB5000MB-1 features an array of detailed finishes that come together in a refined matte black design. Here G-Shock plates the outside of the bezel with black ion it and then polishes it with a hairline finish to expose the silver-colored stainless steel beneath. This perfectly complements the matte black body. Function-wise, the new GMWB5000MB-1 boasts Bluetooth functionality that allows the watch to be connected to a smartphone via the G-Shock Connected smartphone app, Multi-Band 6 Atomic Timekeeping, Tough Solar Charging, Super LED illumination, and more.

Best known for its pioneering use of light power within its Eco-Drive collections, Citizen is has also long been a maker of a broad range of mechanical movements and timepieces. For 2022, Citizen expands its mechanically powered offerings within the Promaster Dive collection with the Super Titanium DivePoweredAutomatic.bythe Cal. 9051, the 46mm Promaster Super Titanium Dive Automatic is the first dive watch from Citizen to feature magnetic resistance of up to 16,000 amperes per meter —an impressive feat considering the average watch is resistant to only 4,800 a/m. In today’s digital world, this level of resistance to magnetism is critical. The watch is offered in two case finishes: Super Titanium, with a matching bracelet and black dial ($1,295), and DLC-coated titanium with a black dive strap and blue dial ($1,095).

92 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 COUTURE Gallery

Founded in Switzerland in 1887, this Italian-Swiss brand has long been an innovator in both sports watches and dress pieces. Perhaps best recognized for its 4-subdial Chrono-4 chronograph collection, its sporty Scafograf, which debuted in 1959, has also long been a best seller, as has the dressier Traversetolo collection.

The newest 40mm model ($2,095) boasts a rich blue dial emphasizing the watch’s mostly contemporary design. In this handsome update, the light blue classic moonphase display nicely balances the very modern open Heart Beat aperture, a long-time Frederique Constant signature, while both perfectly in sync with the attached dark blue leather strap.

Among the watchmaker’s latest debuts is this update to its Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Date series.

Based in Geneva, Frederique Constant was established in 1988, followed by a first collection in 1992. Today, Frederique Constant manufactures affordably priced Swiss Made watches – using both supplied and in-house calibers – designed for a broad selection of consumers.

With this new Gilda Grand Pavé model ($20,800), Eberhard & Co. reveals a new meaning to its concept of femininity. The soft lines of the elliptical case, the floral motif engraved on the caseback express modern and timeless elegance.

EBERHARD

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT

The 32.1mm by 38mm steel case here features a mother-of-pearl dial with an engraved wave motif. Note the VVS-grade diamonds among classic painted Arabic numerals and the leaf-shaped hands. The bezel is also gem-set, with 212 diamonds, while the crown boasts 14 diamonds. Strap options include pearl-white alligator or black lace with an elliptical steel clasp personalized with ‘E’.

MICHELE

Introduced fifteen years ago as Michele’s first mid-size watch, the new Deco Mid celebrates a milestone anniversary this year with the addition of new luxurious details. For the first-time ever, this piece will feature diamond indexes on the dial combined with a signature diamond bezel and a sleek gold hand. The steel watch measures 29mm by 31mm. Price: $2,595.

Founded in 2018, Norqain is an independent, familyowned Swiss watch company known for its adventurefocused sports watches. The watchmaker’s three collections – Adventure, Freedom and Independence – are equipped with mechanical automatic movements, including two it introduced in 2020 produced in collaboration with movement manufacturer, Kenissi. Most recently Norqain has launched the Freedom 60 Chronograph, a 40mm stainless steel watch with a royal blue or anthracite two-layer dial (priced starting at $3,920). The 60s-inspired design includes a domed sapphire glass covering the dial, Old Radium SuperLuminova markers, and faceted hands coated with Old Radium Super-LumiNova. Visible through the transparent caseback is the automatic winding Norqain Calibre NN18, based on the ETA 7753, with an exclusive Norqain-branded oscillating weight. The watch, like all its models, is fit with vegan-certified watch recycled straps. In 2021, the brand announced a commitment to phasing out all leather straps in its collection.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 93 COUTURE Gallery

NORQAIN

Among U-Boat’s best-known designs is its Capsoil collection, which features a movement immersed in oil to amplify the dial. A compensation bubble, which floats freely under the high-quality domed sapphire crystal, then allows the watch to adapt to external and internal temperature variations.

The new Oris ProPilot X Caliber 400 ($4,300) emphasizes its titanium build with a satin and sand-blasted 39mm titanium case—the smallest in the ProPilot range – matched with the familiar ProPilot bezel and a sculpted titanium bracelet. The large protected crown is also titanium. Oris underscores its Caliber 400 Series watches with ten-year warranties and tenyear recommended service intervals, a combination Oris dubs “The New Standard.”

U-BOAT All U-Boat watches can be can be recognized from a distance. All the creations, conceived and designed by Italo Fontana, stand out thanks to their large crown on the left-hand side of the case. The brand is proud of its “Made in Tuscany” factor. And each watch, powered by a Swiss movement, is created and assembled by the craftsmen at the Lucca headquarters.

94 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 COUTURE Gallery

ORIS Independent Swiss watchmaker Oris has long been known for its aviation, racing and dive watches with character and utility. For 2022, Oris expands its wide-ranging ProPilot collection with a titanium-cased model powered by Caliber 400, the watchmaker’s excellent in-house automatic caliber that boasts a five-day power reserve.

Among U-Boat’s latest models, this 45mm titanium Capsoil Titanio chronograph ($3,100) is offered as two limited editions of 150 pieces each. Under the highquality sapphire crystal a two-level black dial, with beige hands and indexes treated with SuperLuminova, visible sealing screws and a metal plate screwed at 6 o’clock to distinguish the Titanio model from all other watches of the range. The optical effect of the oil creates a more intense black and offers higher legibility.

VULCAIN Vulcain was founded in 1858 and is the inventor of the alarm complication for wristwatches. This innovation made the Vulcain watches popular with American presidents starting with Harry S. Truman, earning the brand its reputation as “The Watch for Presidents”. This new 50s Presidents’ Collection model is a two-tone pink gold and steel watch ($10,300) that measures 42mm by 12.4mm and is set with Vulcain’s famed hand-wound alarm movement.

YUNIK Swiss-based Yunik offers a selection of round (small and large) and tonneau-shaped steel watches made with colorful Murano glass. One of the typical features of Murano glass – and thus also one of the typical characteristics of many Yunik wristwatches – are Millefiori, which means “a thousand flowers” and refers to a special technique of glass production. Here, a mixture of different colored glass rods are fused together and partly coated with glass. The varied coloring of the glass rods, colored with silver, gold, iron oxide or other materials, melds to create eye-catching designs not found elsewhere.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 95 COUTURE Gallery

The Yunik BR (Big Round) is a 44mm model with a Ronda quartz movement and its Murano glass dial and case in one piece. The screw-down back is in anti-allergen steel, and its sapphire crystal is splash-resistant. Available in several versions, with each bracelet quick-changeable in Italian leather, vegan or metallic bracelet. Price: $790.

WOLF Since 1834 the Wolf mark has been a symbol of innovation and the pursuit of the perfect design. From the new British Racing Black collection are winders that pay tribute to the illegal racing that took place in Ireland in the early 1900s. The collection includes a range of winders available in single, double and triple sizes, with watch boxes for 8 to 10 pieces. Prices range from $245 to $4,105. 96 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 COUTURE Gallery

Zodiac celebrates 140 years as a maker of Swiss-made dive and adventure watches. Now part of U.S.-based Fossil group, Zodiac lunches the latest in its famed Super Sea Wolf collection, now made with a 42mm titanium case. The new Super Sea Wolf ProDiver ($2,495) channels the beauty of the deep through orange and green tones on the bezel and concave ring, and colorful accents on the black sunray dial. Complemented by a seven-link titanium bracelet, the classic titanium case holds a Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 97 COUTURE Gallery

ZODIAC

Richard Mille’s new RM UP-01 Ferrari is a limited edition of 150 timepieces and is the first result of the partnership with the Italian racing legend. Price: $1.89 million.

ULTIMATE THINNESS 98 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

The watch’s titanium-based Caliber RM UP-01 manual-winding movement is also encased within titanium, and despite its thinness powers displays for hours, minutes and a function selector.

The watch’s going train, baseplate and skeletonized bridges are made with grade-5 titanium to create the its impressive flatness – and strength. Richard Mille says its new watch will withstand accelerations of more than 5,000 g’s.

Richard Mille teams with Ferrari for an ultra-thin record. Measuring a wispy 1.75mm thick, Richard Mille’s new RM UP-01 Ferrari just surpassed (by .05mm) the recently released Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra as the thinnest mechanical watch available.

On the 51mm by 39mm rounded rectangular case, Richard Mille minimized the need for sapphire, placing the clear, strong mineral only atop the red-handed dial and the regulator (balance wheelspring assembly). (See specifications below for more detail).

And with the assistance of engineers from Audemars Piguet Le Locle, Richard Mille developed a new type of strong escapement with a balance wheel in titanium that reduces the caliber’s thickness to only 1.18mm. Engineers fitted the extra flat barrel with a super fine hairspring, which still delivers a full 45 hours of power reserve.Toreach ultimate thinness, engineers also removed the winding stem. In its place, Richard Mille offers two wheels, one for function selection, the other to utilize the selected function, each integrated in the left side of the case.

The new titanium watch reaches its record-breaking dimensions with its entire movement built within its case rather than atop a baseplate/caseback, the method used by Bulgari and previous record-holder Piaget.

“In this quest for absolute flatness, we had to offer a watch that, far from being a ‘concept watch’, was up to the task of following a user’s daily life, whatever the circumstances,” explains Salvador Arbona, Technical Director for Movements at Richard Mille.

DIAL: Time display, function selector located between 10 and 11 o’clock allows one to select the winding (W) or the hand-setting (H) function. Se tting the time or winding the barrel is then possible by turning the second crown located between 7 and 8 o’clock.

BRACELET: Leather strap. PRICE: $1.89 million.

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 99

RichardSPECIFICATIONS:MilleRMUP-01 Ferrari MOVEMENT: RMUP-01 Ultra flat manual winding with hours, minutes and function selector. Measures 1.18mm thick. The baseplate and bridges in grade-5 titanium (an alloy of 90% grade 5 titanium, 6% aluminum and 4% Newvanadium).ultra-flat escapement, fast-rotating barrel (6 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours), regulator index eliminated with calibration via 6 adjustable weights located directly on the balance. 28,800 vph.

CASE: 51mm by 39mm x 1.5mm titanium monobloc construction assembled using 13 grade-5 titanium spline screws and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. Surrounding the crowns, two black ceramic inserts protect the bezel from friction and ensure water resistance. The caseback and bezel are satin-finished, with polished bevels. Laser-engraved Ferrari prancing horse. Water resistance to 10 meters.

100 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 101

The new Oris ProPilot X Caliber 400 emphasizes its titanium build with a satin and sand-blasted 39mm titanium case—the smallest in the ProPilot range – matched with the familiar ProPilot bezel and a sculpted titanium bracelet. The large protected crown is also titanium.

Flipping the watch over reveals the titanium case back and clear sapphire crystal that frames the Oris Calibre 400, the ﬁve-day automatic movement, itself a much-discussed technical achievement from this independent watchmaker after its debut two year ago. You might be aware already that this movement is both highly precise and strongly anti-magnetic. Oris checks it as accurate to -3 to +5 seconds a day (within chronometer certiﬁcation standards). Its anti-magnetism stems from more than thirty non-ferrous and anti-magnetic parts (including a silicon escape wheel and a silicon anchor).

Combined with twin barrels and an innovative rotor with a low-friction slide bearing system that replaces the traditional rotor ball bearings, the caliber o ers the wearer a liberating ﬁve-day power reserve. Oris underscores its Caliber 400 Series watches with tenyear warranties and ten-year recommended service intervals, a combination Oris dubs “The New Standard.” If you’re waiting for other brands to catch up, you might be waiting quite a while.

102 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

ORIS FOR 2022 EXPANDS ITS WIDE-RANGING PROPILOT COLLECTION WITH A TITANIUM-CASED MODEL POWERED BY CALIBER 400, THE WATCHMAKER’S EXCELLENT IN-HOUSE AUTOMATIC CALIBER THAT BOASTS A FIVE-DAY POWER RESERVE.

Of the three dial options, salmon, blue and grey, it’s the latter hue that best accentuates the clean metallic look of this sleek debut. But if you’re looking for color, either of the two additional options will undoubtedly turn heads.

TITANIUM PILOT

SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 103

XORISSPECIFICATIONS:PROPILOTCALIBER400 39mm multi-piece titanium with satin and sandblasted fi nishes. Titanium back with satin and sandblasted fi nishes, screwed, see-through sapphire glass, titanium screw-in security crown with protection. WATER RESISTANCE: Grey, blue or salmon. Indices and hour and minute hands with SuperLumiNova. CRYSTAL: Sapphire, domed on both sides, double-sided anti-refl ective coating. BRACELET: Titanium with folding clasp with Orispatented ‘LIFT’ system. MOVEMENT: Oris Calibre 400 with center hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window at 6 o’clock, date corrector, fi ne timing device and stop-second. Accuracy -3/+5 seconds a day (within COSC tolerances). Highly antimagnetic with a power reserve of 120 hours. PRICE: $4,300. 104 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022

MOVEMENT Manual-wind Jacob & Co JCFM09, column wheel, bi-retrograde and digital chronograph; twin flying one-minute tourbillons at 5 and 7 o’clock. Movement power reserve: 48 Hours. Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz). Chronograph power reserve: 2 Hours with a frequency of 36’000 vph (5 Hz). Finishings: black chromium, circulargrained mainplate, polished and beveled bridges, openworked, beveled and horizontal-grained levers and clutches, gold-plated openworked balance-wheel bridge, sand-blasted barrels. Mirror-polished, beveled, EB-shaped tourbillon cages. PRICE 57 pieces each in rose gold and white gold, each priced at $250,000.

Jacob & Co. SUMMER 2022 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | 105 Backstory REAR VIEWS OF NOTE BY MICHAEL THOMPSON

46mm by 16mm rose gold or white gold, dome sapphire crystal and sapphire back, each with a number plate. Water resistance to 30 meters.

Made with 470 components and 92 jewels, the movement is split into two primary systems: One keeps time with a dedicated barrel, gear train and twin tourbillons, all of which combine to drive what on this watch may be a sideshow. Indeed, the two tiny hour and minute indicators on the dial are literally peripheral concerns, rotating along the dial’s edge. Much of what is visible here on the back of the watch controls the second system: the chronograph. You’ll see the chronograph’s dedicated barrel at the upper right side stacked on top of the other barrel. The pair is stacked because they need to share access to hand winding operated by the crown. Down between the two flying tourbillons sits the chronograph’s dedicated high-frequency regulating organ, with its short hairspring. It allows the balance wheel to oscillate at 36,000 beats per hour, or 5 Hz. Whenever the pushers activate the chronograph, the pair of long and thin springs visible stemming from the sides of the balance wheel bridge accumulate energy. This energy is what is needed for each retrograde chronograph hand as they jump back to their starting point at the appropriate time. A star-shaped wheel drives the instantaneous jump of the counter30-minutedisc.Managingthe torque and tension required for the two retrograde chronograph hands and a digital counter is quite a feat. All this is layered on top of a dual-tourbillon timekeeper. This ability to reach elegant solutions to complex operations, with its high level of engineering – and luxury – is worthy of the Bugatti name.

JEAN BUGATTI

The pair of one-minute flying tourbillons that distinctly mark the Jacob & Co. Jean Bugatti are just a warm-up to the full horological show built into this impressive watch. Also on display on the dial is a large double retrograde chronograph with split hands and, wedged between the two tourbillons, a digital jumping 30-minute counter.

THE ESSENTIALSCASE

The view from the back of Calibre JCFM09 underscores the watch’s complexity with a web of openworked, polished and beveled components. All these levers, gears and clutches stand out against the circular-grained, blacked-out mainplate.

106 | INTERNATIONAL WRISTWATCH | SUMMER 2022 Comic

iW / International WristWatch Summer 2022

Articles inside

TITANIUM PILOT

STEEL SKELETON

ULTIMATE THINNESS

COUTURE 2022 DEBUTS

TOP GUN UPDATES

ELEGANT FLYBACK

FRANCK MULLER’S LATEST GEM-SET MYSTERIES

GREUBEL FORSEY UPDATES GMT SPORT

ZENITH ENHANCES CHRONOMASTER

DOXA ADDS COLOR TO CARBON

PERPETUAL STYLE

BULGARI CONTINUES BREAKING RECORDS

SPORTY TITANIUM

VINTAGE BUMPER