GL48 April 2016

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the concierges’

bl ack books TokYo Is Ta Nbul loNdoN b u e N os a I r e s Par I s

New York

Flying HigH

Guatemala’s kite festival

it taKeS a village

SailS Force

Exploring Cambodia

Tonga by yacht

KayaKS and craic A night out in Dublin

great Scot

Is this the new Route 66?

craF t y canada

A brewer’s guide to Québec

ISSN 1449-3543

australia | germany | indonesia | malaysia | oman | usa

the concierges’

black bookS

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Six of the best reveal the secrets of their neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires, Istanbul, London, New York, Paris and Tokyo

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SCoTLANd

oMAN Sail the clear waters of the rugged Musandam Peninsula

ToNgA Explore deserted beaches and island life from your private yacht 10 get lost ISSUE 48

CAMBodIA

Is the Northern Highlands 500 the new Route 66?

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Paddle into daily life and past history on the nation’s waterways

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AUSTRALIA

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INdoNESIA

Hey true brew, head to the Swan valley for a thriving beer scene

The dangerous lives of boy jockeys competing on Sumbawa Island

get in the know Italians are thought to eat about 27 kilograms of pasta a person each year.

contents

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s, 15 Tamron len ooks, 21 et b Lonely Plan ckpack, 23 a Lowepro b trip, 48 Zanzibar

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Festival FLY A kITE FoR YoUR LovEd oNES IN gUATEMALA 18 oN THE RAdAR

Travel happenings around the globe

23 HAPPY SNAPS

Send us your photos and win!

24 PLACES To STAY The weird and wonderful

26 ToP TRIPS

get going in a group

28 HoT FIvE

32 YoU WISH

A heli ride high over Hawaii

34 gET PACkINg

Ten days of adventure in Malaysian Borneo

36 AFTER dARk

From kayaking to secret cellar bars – here’s where to head in dublin

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like a local A BREWER’S TAkE oN QUEBEC’S SAINT-RoCH dISTRICT 116 Food

122 TRAvEL JoB

Sample a german speciality that tastes better than it sounds

Life’s one big joyride for this rollercoaster connoisseur

118 PHoTogRAPHY

124 ToP BARS

How to use your smartphone like a pro

121 MUSIC

Uncover the hometown of techno

drink it down

126 REvIEWS

All the gadgets you’ll need

128 CoNFESSIoNS

Italian food flop

Mind-blowing zip-lines get in the know The 1968 Russian Mil Mi-12 Homer helicopter could lift more than 40,000 kilograms.

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othing is more calming than being in the presence of young monks. they are reserved, peaceful, controlled and observant. like a breeze, they move in silence. Quiet conversations with these boys bring to light another world and another way of life; a purity to be revered, for sometimes just a cheeky giggle and a boyish grin reminds you that they are still simply young beings who are not tainted by the modern world. this is sak, a 13-year-old boy from the nearby pagoda in Beng mealea, cambodia. he takes a moment to himself in the cooler shadows of the ruins, staring into the distance. it was impossible to resist taking a photo of him with his face soft and the colours of his robe contrasting with the tones of the mossy walls. i felt so incredibly blessed to spend the afternoon in his presence.

• canon 5D mark ii • 50mm lens • iso 200, f/1.4, 1/16 sec Congratulations to Amanda Leckie who submitted this image in our Tamron photography competition.

Think you’ve got a winner? send us your best travel photos for the chance to win a tamron 35mm f/1.8 Di Vc UsD lens. this lens has fast become the darling of the wide-angle world, and is perfect for capturing large scenes, portraits, snaps on the go and even macro shots. the wide aperture allows it to be used in low light and the optical image-stabilisation system keeps your shots crisp. tamron.com.au to enter, send your photos to competitions@getlostmagazine.com. t&cs at getlostmagazine.com.

Art, beer and a big blue bus make for good times at the Bernard Shaw.

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get in the know Dublin was founded by Vikings in 841, who called it Dyflin.

duBlin With their heightened appreciation for a drink and a good laugh, it’s no wonder the Irish do the hours post-sunset so well. Nikola Sarbinowski takes a tour of Dublin’s best craic.

Photography by Nikola Sarbinowski

get in the know Culchie is Irish slang for someone who’s from rural Ireland.

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radiTioNal iriSh pubS SprouT iN almost every city in the world, and it’s no wonder – the irish are a gas. in dublin you could spend weeks drinking pints of Gat in bars once favoured by literary gods, and you’d be an eejit to ignore them. but behind the city’s charming facades and colourful Georgianera doors there’s also a burgeoning world of cuisine, craft beer and creativity all closely tied to history but forging a decidedly modern, most definitely cool dublin.

4pm Make for the banks of the River Liffey, the waterway slicing Dublin in two and providing neutral territory over which the city’s ‘dodgy’ Northsiders and ‘spoilt’ Southsiders hurl jibes at one another. Of course, most Dubliners swear they’re above such ribbing, but they’ll still throw a dig or two for a laugh. Before you declare allegiance to one particular side, meet up with the crew from City Kayaking, pull on a pair of oversized plastic pants, slide into a vessel and drench your local guide with questions as you glide between the two. On warm summer afternoons – think around 22°C – you might even spot a few Dubs, as the locals are called, plunging from bridges or just bobbing along with the current.

City Kayaking Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship Custom house Quay citykayaking.com

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Despite the plastic protection, by the time you clamber out of your kayak your lower half will be soaked. Even if you did remember a change of clothes (bet you forgot your undies) you won’t want to carry your sodden stuff around all night. Taxi south to the Dean Hotel, your evening digs, dump your soils in your room (resisting the lure of the well-stocked Smeg minibar) and head for the rooftop. After a quick ride on the indoor swings, nip into Sophie’s restaurant for a drink. The space is stylish – think warm metal, marble and gnarly old olive trees – but it’s the rare panoramic view over the low-rise city that’s most arresting. Lock eyes on St Patrick’s Cathedral before heading down the hall to the Rooftop Bar to polish off another tipple.

The dean hotel 33 harcourt Street deanhoteldublin.ie

Music courses through the veins of the Irish, and a night out isn’t complete without swaying to traditional tunes with your heart on your sleeve and a Guinness in your hand. Avoid the overcooked stuff in the Temple Bar area, aka Dublin’s tourist trap, and seek out the Cobblestone, a classic Irish pub north of the river. This is where the locals go, as well as a smattering of tourists who have caught wind of the craic (fun) that flows here. Each night the pub invites a couple of musicians – fiddlers, mandolin or bodhrán (hand-held drum) players, depending on the night – to share some melodies, and the numbers swell when locals turn up to jam too.

Palm over €4.50 for a well-poured pint of the good stuff and settle in beneath the portraits of performers lining the walls.

Cobblestone 77 King Street North, Smithfield cobblestonepub.ie

Sophie’s is the best place to catch the golden hour.

Paddle the River liffey.

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Fiddlers brandish bows in the Cobblestone pub.

get in the know George Bernard Shaw is the only person to have won a Nobel Prize and an Academy Award. He refused an offer of a knighthood.

after dark: dublin 8pm

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A glass of Guinness may feel like a meal, but if you want to survive the evening you’ll need more than a liquid dinner. Despite Ireland’s proximity to England, its cuisine is worlds apart from the infamous stodge once served by its neighbour.

Fresh seafood, tender lamb and artisanal cheeses grace the menus and, for a city of just half a million people, Dublin claims an impressive array of gastropubs and restaurants.

For fresh local produce, book a table at Fade Street Social by Irish celebrity chef Dylan McGrath and salivate over a selection of woodfired flatbreads, rabbit and trout, or that day’s choice cuts of chateaubriand, tomahawk steak and Denver roll. Add a side of micro veggies and feast on a modern take on the traditional Irish dish colcannon – this incarnation features vivid-green kale foam and creamy mash scooped from a rustic copper pot.

Fade Street Social restaurant 4–6 Fade Street fadestreetsocial.com

The Irish are famed for their wit and if you haven’t cracked up a half-dozen times since your night began then something must have gone ‘arseways’. For real belly laughs look no further than the long-running comedy club at the International Bar, less than five minutes’ walk from Fade Street. Gander at the traditional pub’s pink granite bar set beneath hand-carved mahogany panelling on the ground floor then scurry upstairs to the dimly lit den serving comedy seven nights a week. Expect gags from up-and-coming acts and, if you’re lucky, a big name testing new tricks.

The international bar 23 Wicklow Street international-bar.com

11pm Mashed spuds with a twist at Fade Street Social.

Some talented lads make the international Bar their stage. get in the know The carved mahogany panelling at the International Bar features the seven river gods.

Take a break and relish those laughter-induced endorphins at the Bernard Shaw, further south in the Camden Quarter. It may be named for the famous playwright and author, but this eclectic venue is more a multifaceted drinking hole than a thought-provoking literary den. During the day it plays the part of an artsy cafe, on some weekends it’s a flea market and at night it’s a top place to party. Head to a back room where you’ll find a DJ spinning tracks for those on the dance floor or spill into the beer garden adorned with street art where the Big Blue Bus, a brightly painted, pizza-serving double decker, takes centre stage. If you’re lucky nab a seat up top or lounge on the bleachers for a spot of people watching. If you still have energy to burn grab a pool cue and challenge some opponents.

The bernard Shaw 11–12 South richmond Street facebook.com/thebernardshaw

Show off your pool skills at the Bernard Shaw.

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The best way to explore Oman’s Musandam Peninsula, writes Mark Daffey, is from the deck of a dhow. In fact, with very few roads there, it may be the only way.

Photography by Mark Daffey

History peaks on thedwarf Magrathe River: the Jagged medieval townofonLima.

Pontremoli.

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get in the know The Musandam Peninsula forms part of the Hajar Mountains that extend as far south as Ras Al Hadd, where the Gulf of Oman meets the Arabian Sea.

oman Italy

get in the know About 20 per cent of the world’s petroleum is transported through the Strait of Hormuz.

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t’s not a great start. I’ve allowed 90 minutes for our convoy of cars to travel from Dubai, on the United Arab Emirates’ west coast, to Dibba, a small port on the opposite coast, just across the border inside the Omani enclave of Musandam. But traffic congestion heading out of town means we arrive at the port almost two hours late.

Our 14-strong group has been looking forward to Al Marsa Musandam’s two-night dhow cruise alongside the rugged peninsula all week, so the delay has tested our patience. By the time we actually board, excitement has given way to relief.

That phase passes the moment we dump our bags in our ensuite cabins. One by one we find our way to the top deck, where banana lounges and deck chairs point towards the bow. Bottles of wine and beer are opened and the sea breeze begins to work its magic. This, we all agree, is closer to how we imagined the weekend to pan out.

The Musandam Peninsula’s heavily indented coastline measures roughly 650 kilometres. Mountain peaks reaching heights of more than 2000 metres plummet into the Persian Gulf on one side and the Gulf of Oman on the other. The two bodies of water meet at the tip of the peninsula, where they squeeze through a slender passage separating this part of Oman from Iran. At its narrowest, this choke point – known as the Strait of Hormuz – is just 34 kilometres wide.

For thousands of years, this strait has formed part of a busy sea trade route connecting the Indian subcontinent to the Middle East and beyond to the Mediterranean. For that reason, the Musandam Peninsula is valued as a strategic commercial and military stronghold. It’s also an area that’s brimming with dramatic scenery. Comparisons have been made with Norway’s fjord system, although the Scandinavian version is certainly greener than the arid country on offer here.

There’s no way we can possibly sail around the entire peninsula in just 48 hours, so I ask Al Marsa’s Ziad Al Sharabi if we can make it as far as Kumzar, the isolated fishing village at the tip of the peninsula.

“We can’t get there. It’s too far and the currents are too strong,” he says. “The people are also very conservative. They don’t really like strangers walking around taking photos.”

Ziad instead maps out an itinerary that will take us north along the east coast for four hours, travelling through moonlit darkness to Sheesa Bay. He promises we will wake inside the sheltered headlands of Ras Qabr Hindi and Ras Khaysa, where we’ll be surrounded by jagged peaks whose twisted and contorted cliff faces will look as though they’ve been torn from the pages of a geology textbook. From Sheesa Bay, we’ll follow the contours of the coast – more slowly this time – back to Dibba. Along the way we’ll anchor in various locations to snorkel, dive or swim.

It’s well after 9pm when we set off from Dibba. Clear skies and calm waters mean there is little risk of seasickness, and the boat’s gentle sway is hypnotically comforting. Many are lulled to sleep, either below deck in their cabins or on the banana lounges up top.

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Passengers snorkel in the Sheesa Bay waters off Red Island. get in the know Kumzar villagers speak a dialect known as Kumzari, which originated in south-west Iran. There are only about 5000 speakers.

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In the north of Scotland, Graeme Green decides not to walk 500 miles, but instead drive it to check out a road trip the locals hope will be the UK’s equal to Route 66.

Photography by Graeme Green

Hiking guide Gordon Anderson History Magra takes inon thethe view of theRiver: valleythe from medieval town on of Pontremoli.

Caption the mountainside Ben Hope.

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get in the know The Proclaimers’ identical twins, Craig and Charlie Reid, are from Leith in Edinburgh.

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face appears above the water, its two dark round eyes peering at us. Another head bobs up, then another, as we paddle across the Inner Sound off the northwest coast of Scotland. Soon, around 30 seals have flopped off the rocks and swum over to check us out. “They’re very curious, just like dogs,” says kayaking guide Chris Hingley. As they gather around our kayaks, their ghostly shapes watch us from the water like the Sirens from Greek mythology. Occasionally, they leap from the sea before slapping the water with their bodies and tails. “It’s likely that’s territorial behaviour,” suggests Chris, but it looks more like they’re showing off.

The North Highlands of Scotland are full of wildlife and wild landscapes.

I’m exploring the North Coast 500 (NC500), a new tourist trail that starts and ends in Inverness, the capital of the Highlands. It loops up around the east coast to John o’ Groats, along the rugged north coast and down the mountainous west of Scotland through Ullapool and Applecross.

The ‘500 Miles’ route, inspired by The Proclaimers’ classic song (it’s my week-long earworm), has been talked up as a new ‘classic’ road trip – Scotland’s answer to Route 66 in the USA or Italy’s Amalfi Coast.

This is more than just a road to blithely cruise along – it’s meant to be discovered at a leisurely pace, leaving time to explore castles, distilleries, wildlife, hiking trails and plenty more along the way.

There’s a real sense of adventure as I leave Inverness and cross the shining water of Beauly Firth before heading north into the evocatively named Black Isle. An hour up the road, I take a small detour to tackle my first hill, Cnoc Fyrish. It’s an easy, two-hour round trip – popular with local dog walkers and hill runners – through pine forest to the arches of the striking, Indian-influenced Fyrish Monument on the hilltop, with views of the green coastline and oil rigs in the silvery water of Cromarty Firth.

In the afternoon, I stop at Dunrobin Castle, a fairytale building originally from the 1300s – and my future home, as soon as that lottery win comes in. Falconry displays take place in the garden during summer, but my favourite feature of the castle is the ornate Aeolian Orchestrelle, a pressure-operated harmonium, in one of the hallways.

I’d been warned the first day’s drive from Inverness to John o’ Groats (I’m taking the route in an anticlockwise direction) is the least interesting section, but I like it. The high roads swoop along the coast, with views of the North Sea to my right. Thick yellow banks of heather stretch across massive, sweeping hills. I pass abandoned stone crofts, ISSUE 48 get lost 61

Given its recent history, Cambodia could be one of the saddest places on earth. But as Samantha Kodila journeys across the country, visiting ancient temples, bustling cities, floating villages and heartbreaking memorials, she discovers a nation imbued with hope.

Photography by Samantha Kodila

Locals heading off to work as the sun rises over Kompong Khleang.

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get in the know Over the past 60 years, Cambodia has changed its name each time a new government has come into power. It is currently the Kingdom of Cambodia.

cambodia

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he sun sinks towards the horizon, accentuating each crevice of the fairyfloss clouds floating over a distant mountain. The air is heavy with humidity and a layer of stickiness coats my skin as though I’ve been rolling in honey. The only relief is a gentle breeze through the windows of our small wooden boat as it cruises through Tonle Sap’s lapping waves.

To the right, clouds eclipse the blue sky, turning it a shady grey.

For the moment it looks far away, and I remain unconcerned, turning back to the view.

“It’s about to rain!” shouts Chantal, our group leader and, as if on cue, water droplets burst from the sky, slapping into the boat’s frame.

The calm lake now heaves beneath us and everyone stumbles in the confined space as we gather our belongings from the rain-soaked floor – there is no glass in any of the windows – and place them on seats.

Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Cambodia, and our group of 10 is trying to cross it. We’re traversing it and the Sangker River from Battambang to Siem Reap, a common journey for both locals and travellers. Depending on weather conditions, the trip can take anywhere between nine and 12 hours.

Out here, it feels as if we’re a world away from the bustle of the city.

Setting sail from Battambang, colourful markets and tooting tuk-tuks disappear from view, and an oasis awaits. Palm trees edge the river and stilt houses balance precariously over water. Men and women cast fishing nets, children bathe by the river’s edge and women hang out freshly washed clothes, smiling and waving as we pass. It’s hard to believe how friendly the people are when the country was so recently brought to its knees.

From 1975 to 1979, the Cambodian people suffered through what would be later named the Killing Fields era. Led by Khmer Rouge dictator Pol Pot, the prospering country was transformed into a land of horror. Almost overnight the regime stripped thousands of people of their personal belongings, evacuated the cities and forced the population to work in the fields. Intellectuals – doctors, lawyers, teachers – were tortured then slaughtered, as were ethnic and religious minorities and people connected to the previous government.

In four years, an estimated two million people – about 20 per cent of the country’s population – died.

We’d confronted this bleak history outside Battambang two days earlier. Our guide, Borem, walked with us through Wat Samrong Knong and the killing caves at Phnom Sampeau, and spoke quietly of the atrocities that had occurred. Borem was just six years old when the Khmer Rouge was removed from power, but did not escape the brutality.

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Anchored off Nuku Island.

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get in the know In 1963, Tonga issued the world’s first self-adhesive stamps.

tonga Italy

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blue Thanks to a rather large fib, Captain Cook never made it this far north when he sailed through Tonga. More than two centuries later, Justin Jamieson discovers why the Vava‘u island group is a secret worth keeping.

Photography by Justin Jamieson

get in the know Humpback whales have two blowholes, one for each lung. Each lung is the size of a small car.

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the concierges’

black bookS NEW YoRk | TokYo | bUENoS aIRES | PaRIS | ISTaNbUl | loNDoN take some of the coolest hotels in the world’s best cities then ask the experts who provide people with recommendations to tell us about their local gems. it’s time to get rid of that guidebook.

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get in the know The largest hotel on earth is the First World Hotel in Genting Highlands, Malaysia. It has 7351 rooms.

get in the know The Hoshi Ryokan in Komatsu, Japan, was founded in 718 and has been operated by the same family for 46 generations.

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