Get Lost 30

FREE 68-PAGE MINI-MAG 30 GREAT ESCAPES ISSUE #30 // $7.95 GST INCLUDED www.getlostmag.com

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THAILAND KO CHANG: WANT TO HANG HERE?

Whales, icebergs & beer in Newfoundland The Galรกpagos An animal freakshow Party with the Swiss at the SnowpenAir Festival

WIN The ultimate Malaysian escape!

ISSN 1449-3543

SOLOMONS Weekend warriors MALAWI Lake of stars ALEX LLOYD The west is best

INDONESIA | MACAU | MALAYSIA | NORWAY | VANUATU

FEATURES

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SWITZERLAND Party at an open-air festival and ski deep powder at Switzerland’s magnificent mountains.

MALAYSIA

MALAWI

Wander the wilds of Borneo at the very beautiful Bako National Park, Sarawak.

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GALÁPAGOS

Witness the age-old warrior tradition of spear fighting on a small island in the Solomons. #10 get lost ISSUE #30

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THAILAND

Enjoy a wild road trip along Newfoundland’s rugged Atlantic coast – a place where beer is brewed from icebergs.

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SOLOMONS

Take a journey to the Lake of Stars – an adventure into the heart of Malawi.

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CANADA

Discover Darwin’s very own living laboratory – the spectacular Galápagos Islands.

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Kick back on Koh Chang, an island often overlooked by Thailand’s southbound tourists.

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INDONESIA Strap in for a ride across Indonesia’s spectacular island in the sun, Sumatra.

VANUATU Discover the fascinating lives of the ni-Vanuatu on the remote islands of Ra and Mota Lava.

get in the know South Africa is sitting on nearly 40 per cent of the worlds platinum reserves.

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100 HOLIDAY IDEAS

108 TRAVEL JOB

112 MUSIC

120 CONFESSIONS

Get to know Miami when the sun goes down.

Two weeks in India on A$5,000.

Meet Dale Templar from the BBC’s Human Planet.

Alex Lloyd on music, travel and West Oz.

Georgia King has a very big night in Serbia.

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Your Letters & Photos Send in and win News & Views The globe uncovered Places to Stay The weird and wonderful 30 Travel Secrets Our writers reveal

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Events Dates for your diary 26 Retro Travel Travel from yesteryear 28 You Wish Get green with envy 102 Food The hungry traveller

get in the know Behind Russia, Canada is the world’s second-largest country by total area.

104 Photography Expert photo tips 110 Our Shout The world’s best bars 114 Eco Travel 30 green getaways 116 Reviews Gadgets and other goodies ISSUE #30 get lost #11

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places to stay

Jakes Hotel, Villas and Spa

Treasure Beach, Jamaica WHAT: Named after a family parrot, Jakes was founded and is still run by local Sally Henzell. There are 30 rooms, cottages and villas spread out over the quaint fishing village on Jamaica’s south coast. Each bohemian-style abode has its own one-of-akind bed, antique furniture, shell fretwork, ceiling fans and louvre windows, which are inspired by Morocco, India and the artist Gaudi. And don’t forget your own wooden outdoor deck and saltwater pool.

WHY: Your bathers, a pair of thongs and a laid-back attitude are all you’ll need to bring – it’s the Caribbean after all.

HOW: From A$95 per night for a room to A$600 for a villa. www.jakeshotel.com #20 get lost ISSUE #30

get in the know It would take about 1,200,000 mosquito bites to completely drain a human of blood.

places to stay

image: lars stroschen

image: lars stroschen

Propeller Island City Lodge

Airstream Rooftop Trailer Park

Tschuggen Grand Hotel

WHAT: This habitable work of art is more museum than hotel. Everything you see or sleep on was created by the German artist Lars Stroschen. The 30 rooms range from the tame to the extreme, such as the flying bed, mirror room, blue room and padded cell, or chicken curry, grandma’s, therapy and the upside down room. Each will alter your perspective of reality, though which one you choose depends on how adventurous you are.

WHAT: Atop Cape Town’s swanky Grand Daddy hotel is a souped-up USA-style vintage trailer park. Local designers were brought in to reinvent the interiors of seven 1930s Airstreams. Each of the over-thetop, tongue-in-cheek motor homes has its own theme: Dorothy, afro-funk, the ballad of John and Yoko, Goldilocks and the three bears, earthcote moontides, love of lace and Pleasantville. Big screen TVs, aircon, ensuites and massage services make it the real American dream.

WHAT: Located at an altitude of 1,800 metres, this futuristic five-star resort even has it’s own mountain railcar.

Designed by Swiss architect Mario Botta, the luxurious residence lies smack-bang in the middle of the Swiss Alps and is split over four levels. At the top is the Arosa Mountain Grotto, which from outside resembles a cluster of glassy mountain peaks. Best of all, the railcar takes you straight to the ski slopes and hiking tracks.

WHY: A super-surreal stay that justifies a trip to Berlin all on its own.

WHY: Forget trailer park trash, this is penthouse park class.

WHY: A ski-in, ski-out mountain lodge with a fairytale element to it.

HOW: Rooms from A$108 to A$262 per night. www.propeller-island.de

HOW: A trailer costs A$143 for two people, including breakfast. www.granddaddy.co.za

HOW: Rooms from A$300 per night; suites from A$200 per night. www.tschuggen.ch

Berlin, Germany

Cape Town, South Africa

Arosa, Switzerland

get in the know China uses an estimated 45 billion pairs of disposable chopsticks every year. About 25 million trees are chopped down to make them.

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image: pat kinsella

text: kelly irving images: kelly irving

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Location is everything, as Kelly Irving discovers at the world’s highest alpine concert – the SnowpenAir in Kleine Scheidegg, Switzerland

’M SITTING ON AN ICY HILL WITH Alex, the bartender of the only ‘snow bar’ in sight. All around me are 4,000-metre meringue pie-like peaks, stunning against the cobalt sky.

Washed in bright sunlight they rear up like giant shark’s teeth. It’s impressive, but intimidating. It’s the outdoors at its very best. Every breath of fresh alpine air that I swallow goes down like a Vicks VapoDrop, soothing the throat and clearing the nose in a way that makes you want to burst into song.

“You’re beautiful,” Alex sings. “You’re beautiful,” he stands. “You’re beautiful to meee!” he stops rubbing factor 30 on his nose and pulls out a Heineken stubby from a hole in the purpose-built wall of

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ice. “Prost!” he toasts to the stage in the distance. It is 10am.

At a height of 2,061 metres, Kleine Schiedegg’s SnowpenAir is the highest alpine concert in the world. I’ve been lucky enough to score a ringside seat to this two-day so-called ‘rockfest’ (this year’s line-up includes a bunch of German rockers, someone called the Ski-Hut King and, yep, James Blunt) all taking place underneath Switzerland’s notorious Eiger mountain north wall.

But I, unlike Alex and his friends, am not just here for the music.

Although Kleine Scheidegg is essentially a train station/central hub for connections onto Jungfraujoch, the highest railway station in the continent

(which – at 3,454 metres – is known as ‘the top of Europe’), it’s also the gateway for the most celebrated snow terrain in the country. With 213 kilometres of downhill runs, well-prepared pistes ‘n’ powder-perfect slopes, to come here and not ski would be like going to Ireland and not downing a drop of Guinness.

The three mountains that Kleine Scheidegg is located beneath – the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau – are the most symbolic sight of the Swiss Alps. I can see why.

“The stranger’s first feeling, when suddenly confronted by that towering and awful apparition wrapped in its shroud of snow, is breathtaking astonishment,” wrote Mark Twain on

get in the know Jungfraujoch is a popular location for Bollywood films. There is even a Bollywood themed restaurant at the station.

switzerland

The SnowpenAir in full swing.

his first sighting of Jungfrau. “It is as if heaven’s gates had swung open and exposed the throne.”

Although Jungfrau means ‘virgin’ in German, it is in no way perceived as pure. The alluring Bernese Oberland region has claimed many lives, including more than 60 climbers who have perished attempting the fearsome north face of the Eiger (German for ‘ogre’) .

The ‘death wall’ is the stuff of legends.

Its tales of tragedy and bravery have featured in books, films and even songs.

“You’re beautiful!” croons Alex, serenading the wall with an actual icecold beer. It’s possible that James Blunt does in fact sound a lot better with an accent – or is that due to the booze?

What’s different at this place is the lack of overweight security guards running around the grounds after fence-

jumpers. For starters, everyone here looks like a ski pole, and let’s face it, causing a scene isn’t really what this country is about.

Efficiency is key. Look at the Swiss Army knife. Accuracy is vital. Some festival-goers are even paid to ensure

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I think to myself that everything here is just so terribly Swiss. Until a man in a penguin suit waddles past.

Down the hill, the main arena has turned into some kind of live zoo enclosure. A band of old-school American disco kings has worked the 10,000-strong crowd

Every breath of fresh alpine air that I swallow goes down like a Vicks VapoDrop, soothing the throat and clearing the nose in a way that makes you want to burst into song

”

empty bottles are put in the correct recycle bin. Order is of the utmost importance. Except when you’re queuing for a portaloo. (Some things remain the same at events the world over.)

into a frenzy of arm waving and gyrating hips. Skiers with raccoon eyes and redraw necks hoe down on rösti (shredded, cheesy fried potato) and bratwursts in buns. Coffee-laced schnapps do the

get in the know On 13 February 2008, Swiss mountaineer Ueli Steck free climbed to the summit of the Eiger north wall in just two hours and 47 minutes.

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malaysia

Dave Stamboulis gets bewitched by Bako National Park in Sarawak, Borneo text: dave stamboulis images: dave stamboulis

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HERE’S SOMETHING ABOUT arriving at a destination by boat.

Once you leave the road behind, you feel a lifetime removed from the modern world as billboards, shopping malls and satellite dishes disappear.

As our boat pulls away from Bako Bazaar – a tiny ramshackle fishing village clinging to a small estuary in Sarawak, Borneo – the houses on stilts recede and we are soon navigating the open #40 get lost ISSUE #30

sea. Verdant forests fringed by rocky headlands are on one side, and the cloudcovered Mount Santubong rises above the Santubong Peninsula on the other.

We land on the beach at Bako National Park and are greeted by a pig-like creature that’s badly in need of a shave.

Mashor, my guide, sees my expression and laughs. “Don’t worry, they are harmless. Bearded pigs. They come out of the jungle and lounge around the

park canteen, hoping to steal scraps from the cafeteria staff.” Consulting my guidebook I see that the bristly fellow is indeed a Bornean bearded pig, indigenous to the region.

For a nature and wildlife adventure junkie like myself, it is becoming progressively harder to find anywhere ‘untouched’ in South-East Asia. There are just too many people, too many demands on the environment and too get in the know Sarawak is also known as the Land of Hornbills.

Telok Pandan Kecil – Bako’s sweetest beach.

many technological changes to keep the pristine spots pristine. But I’d seen some photos of Bako National Park and its quiet beaches. It also offered a chance to trek jungles and see Borneo’s pendulous-nosed proboscis monkeys in the wild – an opportunity that I thought was too good to pass up.

Once the incongruity of seeing a pig with a beard standing on a beach wears off, I discover the national park offers

plenty of other distractions. A loud screeching from the trees above the path to the visitors’ centre soon reveals a pair of silvery langurs, more commonly known as silverleaf monkeys. They’re extremely cute and playful primates, distinguished by their spiky punk-rock hairstyles. They’re also quite shy and often difficult to spot, so Mashor is delighted as he hastily struggles to pull out a pair of binoculars. He tells

get in the know Established in 1957, Bako National Park is the oldest park in Sarawak.

me that it is easy to confuse the more common macaques with the docile silverleafs, and that there is only one way to be sure: the daily swooping attacks around the canteen tables, in bungalows and even full-scale tent raids along the beach are invariably made by scavenging macaques that fear nothing in their quest for food.

After a quick bite at the park canteen we set off to explore. For the intrepid ISSUE #30 get lost #41

text: paul tansley images: lani jensen

On a trip to Africa, Paul Tansley discovers there’s more to Malawi than just a name

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get in the know Candido JosĂŠ da Costa Cardosa was the first European to visit Lake Malawi in 1846. David Livingstone reached it in 1859 and named it Lake Nyasa.

malawi

get in the know Malawi is the eighth-poorest country in the world. Over 40% of the population lives on less than a dollar a day.

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Luke Wright discovers a world within itself at the famed and fabled Galápagos Islands text: luke wright images: luke wright

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FTER RETURNING FROM A holiday in the Galápagos Islands, inquisitive friends and family seemed to have just two questions for me. “Did you see boobies?” was the first, followed soon after by, “Charles Darwin went there, didn’t he?”

For those who don’t know about boobies, they are gannet-like sea birds commonly found on the Galápagos Islands, famed for their big rubbery Smurf-blue feet. A quick google of the word ‘boobies’ will reveal about 45 million possible webpage results.

Not surprisingly, few of the websites feature pictures of birds of the feathered variety.

Those who haven’t heard of Charles Darwin – the Galápagos Islands’ most

get in the know The Galápagos is the world’s second-largest marine reserve.

galápagos islands

celebrated visitor – have probably been living in a cave for several millennia and are yet to benefit from the very thing that he is credited with ‘discovering’.

For the record, an online search of Darwin’s name only turns up about 16 million pages.

The fact that boobies rank higher than one of the most influential men in history may call into question if we humans deserve to be at the top of the evolutionary tree. But it’s probably no shock to most that they do. What is more revealing, however, is that Darwin, contrary to what many people seem to believe, did not exactly discover this tree or even plant its seed.

Genesis

My visit to the remote Galápagos Islands archipelago begins in Quito, Ecuador, about 175 years after Darwin brought his breeches to these parts. Ecuador is the little South American nation that annexed the islands in the 1830s.

I spend a few days exploring the Ecuadorian capital, a dynamic city with an attractive old historic centre, before venturing overland to Guayaquil – the departure point for the islands. I head south by bus through the jagged mountain country of the central highlands, down the Pan-American Highway and up and down its tributaries that cut through and alongside the immense Andean crags and volcanoes.

get in the know The biggest Galápagos tortoise ever recorded weighed 249 kilograms and was over 120 years old.

While the dreadful weather doesn’t allow for much sightseeing, the breaks in the rain reveal from the bus window a spectacularly steep landscape, with massive mountains bursting out of the earth into the sky. It’s an unforgiving place. The thin-air chill and the icy drizzle add to the dramatic effect. The vista is often brightened by colourfully clad indigenous women at the roadside, their cheery outfits at odds with the landscape and with their own straight-faced disposition.

By the time I arrive at Guayaquil, Ecuador’s biggest city and the gateway to the Galápagos Islands, I feel I’ve seen a good slice of Ecuador. I’ve spent a week exploring small villages and big colonial cities. I’ve swum in thermal pools and

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text: justin jamieson images: justin jamieson

Tales of whales, and beer brewed from icebergs, lures Justin Jamieson to the rugged Atlantic coast of Canada’s Newfoundland

Ferryland Lighthouse.

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get in the know There are no snakes, skunks, deer, porcupines or groundhogs on the island of Newfoundland.

canada

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EER, WE DISCOVER, IS SERIOUS BUSINESS HERE IN St John’s, the capital of Newfoundland and the oldest North American settlement. Shannon, a local boozehound is explaining that the size of a beer stubby in Newfoundland is different to anywhere else in Canada and the USA. “They had to make them shorter and fatter to fit ‘em on the boats,” he says.

His accent is a mix of Irish lilt and laid-back Canadian drawl – a cross between Bono and Neil Young.

Newfoundland’s tourism slogan is ‘get lost’, which is exactly what we’ve managed to do within the first 10 minutes of driving around. We made a brief stop to ask for directions out of St John’s, but Shannon’s been banging on about beer for over half an hour now. He only pauses to take a slug from a bottle of Eric’s Red Cream Ale, brewed at the nearby Quidi Vidi Brewery.

Remember, beer is serious business here.

This region of Canada is not often on the itinerary of those from the Southern Hemisphere. There are few places that are farther away from us. The country’s west coast ski fields and Montreal’s festivals attract most of the crowds, while this small island floating in the Atlantic at the mouth of the St Lawrence River is usually forgotten.

The island doesn’t seem to have changed much since explorer John Cabot landed here and named it ‘New Founde Lande’ in 1497. Given the lacklustre title, I wonder if he had been on the sauce himself. It’s not exactly creative, especially when you see the stunning coastline and rolling green hills.

Today these hills are dotted with rows of colourful wooden houses that contrast greatly with the bleak weather. It is almost as if the locals made their homes as bright and inviting as possible, knowing full well that they could do nothing to temper the elements.

St John’s sits in the middle of the east coast of Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula, where it bears the brunt of the Atlantic’s wrath.

Winters here are bitter, with the wind chill dropping temperatures to –15ºC. Most of Newfoundland’s early settlers came from south-east Ireland, which explains the inhabitants’ unique accent and the strong Celtic influence throughout the area.

Shannon eventually comes good with directions out of St John’s. After promising to meet him on George St that night for some traditional music, we head south towards the whale-rich waters of Witless Bay Ecological Reserve. We’ve been told to keep an eye on the water during the drive because we’re likely to see whales. However, we’ve also been told to keep an eye on the road for moose – the number one cause of road accidents in these parts. So far this year they have caused over 600 accidents. We decide to keep an eye out for moose.

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The fishermen who once fished for cod in these waters must have been hardy souls to endure the winter weather in this part of the world

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It may be summer, but we feel the chill as we head out of Bay Bulls on the Gatherall’s catamaran to the reserve. The fishermen who once fished for cod in these waters must have been hardy souls to endure the weather in this part of the world.

It was only in the 1990s that the fisheries closed due to over fishing. In 1992 more than 30,000 Newfoundlanders lost their jobs. While many of these fishermen relocated, others renovated their boats so they could take the growing number of tourists out to see whales in the reserve.

We’re not out for long before I hear “Thar she blows!” called from the upper deck. Melinda, our host, who can probably talk underwater, is an expert at spotting the giants of the sea.

A passing pilot whale waves goodbye.

get in the know The heart of a blue whale is about the size of a Volkswagen Beetle.

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thailand

losing the herd on

text: mark eveleigh

elephant island images: mark eveleigh

Mark Eveleigh discovers Ko Chang: an island that somehow manages to keep itself a secret

Adi (and his dog) run a little pontoon boat across the narrow tidal inlet to the beach at Klong Prao. #68 get lost ISSUE #30

get in the know The Gulf of Thailand is known in Malay as Teluk Siam, which means Gulf of Siam.

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AI MEE PUN HAH!” THE CHIRPY phrase, meaning ‘no problem’, is the most commonly heard sound on Ko Chang.

I wake early for a run before the tropical heat kicks in. The sun is throwing its first saffron-coloured rays over the humpbacked forest slopes of Ko Chang and I’ve heard the phrase twice already.

The first time was from my landlady when I stumbled out of my beach shack blearyeyed and knocked my barbecue over. Now I hear it again from my new friend, Adi. Thailand’s laid-back island attitude has almost become a travellers’ cliché, but for good reason. Life in fast-lane Bangkok has a way of taking its toll and I have come to Ko Chang for a month or two to let the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand wash away the inevitable stress of big-city life.

Adi clearly knows little of those problems. He, with his dog Mah at his side, operates a little pontoon boat across the narrow tidal inlet to the beach at Klong Prao. His workplace is

prime beachfront real estate – the type that postcard publishers drool over. It is almost too perfect, with its turquoise waters and a white arc of sand that is dotted here and there with just the right amount of shade from towering palms.

Klong Prao offers more than enough temptation for me to rip off my trainers and wade across the shallow lagoon.

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shuttling tourists to and from the little beach-bar here. At night, he ferries honeymooners on romantic ‘firefly safaris’ deep into the mangroves, where cicadas chirp, frogs croak and there are fairy-light flashes from a million fireflies.

I promise to return that night to take a gentle cruise with a frosted bottle of Chang beer in hand. The thought is

At night, he ferries honeymooners on romantic ‘firefly safaris’ deep into the mangroves, where cicadas chirp, frogs croak and there are fairy-light flashes from a million fireflies Stupidly, I have come out without any baht and with a sheepish shrug to Adi I pull out my empty pockets.

“Mai mee pun hah!” my new friend laughs as he punts over to me. Mah stands on the bow, tail wagging, waiting to greet the first ‘customer’ of the day.

During the day, Adi makes his money

get in the know The Gulf of Thailand is relatively shallow. Its mean depth is 45 metres; its maximum depth is about 80 metres.

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enough to put a renewed spring in my step as I start the long run back up the sand towards my bungalow.

Ko Chang (Elephant Island) is so-called because it is said to resemble a sleeping elephant. For much of the last month I have been living happily tucked away in the elephant’s armpit.

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text: tom perry images: tom perry

Tom Perry avoids being skewered at a festival in the Solomon Islands that celebrates sorting out problems the old-fashioned way

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get in the know The exact date of each year’s Wogasia is determined by a particular alignment of the sunset with nearby San Cristóbal island.

solomon islands

Spear fighters make their way to the festival after their ceremonial visit to Faraina, the highest point on Santa Catalina.

get in the know On Santa Catalina and throughout the Makira Province, spider webs are traditionally used for fishing line.

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EST.

2004

Discover the best bars the world has to offer

Art Lounge

Andy Wahloo

Milion

Once upon a time this space was a derelict cotton factory. Now it’s an intriguing visual space-cum-bar with retro furniture, random sculptures and everyday objects like brooms and glasses. Known for exhibiting work by up-and-coming visual artists, photographers and students, Art Lounge is also an off-the-cuff bar, a concert space and an art bookstore all rolled into one neat little package.

Music parties kick off twice a month, with European and local DJs making the New York loft-style space come alive. www.artlounge.net

While the pop art on the walls does take a little inspiration from Warhol himself, this bar is a lot more kitsch than a Campbell’s soup can. Paint tins act as bar stools; lanterns as light fittings. Then there are the throwback film posters, tourism ads, street signs and cooking oil barrels.

A small squarish room with, strangely, a distinct North African feel, it also has a stunning summer courtyard out the back. Think colour and cheer, hipness and beer in an odd kind of Parisian art gallery. www.andywahloo-bar.com

Set in a 20th-century mansion, this glorious Buenos Aires bar has a magical old-world charm that draws in locals and tourists alike. On the outside you’ll find wrought-iron balconies, an elegant staircase and lots of greenery framing a cute courtyard; inside is a compact bar and stylish restaurant serving up topnotch tapas, and those all-important juicy Argentinean steaks. In warmer weather it can be tough to get a spot in the garden under the sparkling sky, though in winter you’ll prefer to retreat indoors or, better yet, hug up to a hot Latino body. www.milion.com.ar

River Bridge, Karatina, Beirut, Lebanon

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69 rue des Gravilliers, 75003, Paris, France

Paraná 1048, Recoleta, Buenos Aires, Argentina

get in the know Israel has the highest ratio of university degrees to population in the world.

our shout

Areia Colonial Chillout Hortaleza, 92, Madrid, Spain

What was once an unruly Irish pub is now an ultra-cool Moroccan-style hangout. Pegged as a ‘colonial chillout bar’ in the heart of Madrid’s gay-friendly zone of Chueca, it’s dark and inviting, and the only seats are cushions on the floor. With low-hanging deep-red drapes on the ceiling, a four-poster bed at the back and sofas-cum-beds in the front, this place has all the angles covered. It’s a great place to relax after a long day of sightseeing; DJs pick up the pace (though only slightly) in the evening, and a satisfying brunch will help with your hangover the next day. www.areiachillout.com

View Rooftop Bar

GTower, 199 Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia This new kid on the block has views that will make your jaw drop. It’s situated on the 29th floor of KL’s first certified green hotel/offices (opened in June), with an outlook of the Petronas Twin Towers and the seldom-seen vista of the Titiwangsa mountain range. And though this may sound a little similar to the Trader’s Hotel SkyBar, the vibe here is totally different. Think chilled-out sophistication rather than LA pool party.

With a whisky lounge, champagne room and – the best bit – an alfresco bar, you’ll kick back on a couch, enjoy some funky beats and a custom-designed cocktail and unwind in what will become one of the world’s best rooftop bars. www.view.com.my get in the know The longest lasting prohibition against consumption of alcoholic beverages was 26 years in Iceland (1908 – 1934).

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Trek lush jungles, relax on whitesand beaches, get up close and personal with orangutans and proboscis monkeys, shop till you drop or live the night up, and many more amazing adventures.

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