Isabel Pennington - Design Portfolio

Page 1

(+44 7955002142)

issypennington2000@gmail.com

Unisex higher-income active mountaineers

Supporter of preservation causes, mountaineers and extreme adventures

Strength and endurance through improved performance - Be A Positive Impact.

NO LONGER FORGOTTEN
Issy Pennington

Durable and hard-wearing

No longer will they be the forgotten

Oversized Silhouettes

Practical, yet playful, mountaineer runway style

Concept
Sherpas belief of having respect for the mountains

Off - White

Luxury streetwear - Distinctive diagonal stripes and iconic collab with Nike

Overview

As well as being respected and popular brands within the fashion industry, all five companies have a distinct style, innovative designs, and high quality craftsmanship. I would like to focus on their unique style and market appeal; Off-White and Stone Island have the largest market capitalization, while Moncler has the most unique style and market appeal.

Market Level

Stone Island

Italian premium brand with street-wearinspired aesthetic- innovative fabrics and dyeing techniques

Moncler

French luxury fashion brand

high-end down jackets and sportswear

White Mountaineer

Japanese outdoor fashion brand

Maharishi

British streetwear brand military-inspired designs

Zip off Trouser Over extension tabbed collar Elbow Pleating Graduated volume Decorative Stitching Asymmetric opening Ruching Shoulder strap Side swing bag Raglan
Un-even hem Double-log layering Pocketed compartment in ankle side. Front bellow pocket Tuck away hood High necked collar
arm
Gesture Line-up exploration
Elongated

This collection contains recurring patterns of five representing the five elements and the pure lights associated with Tibetan prayer flags.

Bellow Pocket Look 1 pleated front Exploration of pocket placement Box out the corner Look 2 A collection characterized by key pleats and pockets
Initial Detail Experimentation

Close up of collar/trekkers guide flap

Maharishi’s inspired asymmetrical jacket features an internal zip pocket underneath the passport flap

Look 1 Waistcoat development
The pattern piece for the pleated front has five pleats embroidered with chain stitching
GL
Finalised garment production

Side ZipAllow bag to swing to front

Adjustable straps can be tightened to distribute pressure more evenly

Resolving 3D garment sampling - Look 1 Look

1 and 2
Look
backpack development
2 - Range of features and multiple pockets
Flap opening in Log - Bag rope adjustor
GL GL GL GL Front panel Back panel Panel pocket Inner long Panel
Conceptual approach to designing the backpack element in its initial visual form

Based on the first Kalico mockup, initial design ideas were developed. Drop down sailor front

It is necessary to attach the inner facing bag to the central hole in the lining trouser.

Due to complexity of pattern make sure it is correcftly positioned before cutting

Proposal to have a inner channel containing 2x stitched eyelets - 2mm distance between

When the bellow pocket is hung from the waistband instead of the side, the pleats will not overlap in an unflattering manner that would negatively affect the pleated design of the

Eyelet size exploration for wasitband

Piped edge of pocket facing hole 0.2cm Edge Stitch Stitched 1.5cm eyelets Drop down sailor front
GL GL
Pleats - French Seamed 1.5cm total seam allowance clean inside when flap dropped down. Pocket Facing Pocket Bearer Image of hem of trousers on outer Velcro Hem stitch lineDOUBLE turn up 24cm 21.5cm TWIN NEEDLE 0.7cm 2mm stay stitch trouser. Trouser front pattern piece
GL
Front Trouser CUT 2 Checking the alignment of the underfacing and outer pocket after the flap down pocket has been extended. Drop down sailor front Side of Flap pocket Further button exploration undertak-
Look 1 Trouser Development Process
Back Front

For the collar a separate 10 cm panel depth needs to be applied and added - this excess width will need to be edited off from the collar pattern

On the back pattern of the log jacket, a slit of 1 cm depth has been cut at a 4 cm width to allow for tape to be threaded through for the purpose of securing a backpack.

Elbow pleat in Hybrid Areo final fabric

Collar standNeeds to be dropped down and increased neck circumference

Collar must be attached first before attaching fully made up hood

12.5cm

Front pleated panel

For the base of the jacketTrace and Reflect a template for the curvature

Pleated elbow

0.2cm Edge Stitch

0.5cm stay stitch To secure pleats in place

The jacket features a full-length zipper that allows for complete opening and closure, as well as a 3/4 length zipper that provides partial access to the garment.

Following notches - leave section open to roll hood back in on itself

Make sure the entire arm is constructed before stitching the circumferential opening into the armhole.

Top stitch on seam

Patterns have been modified based on the changes to the shape and proportions obtained from the Kalico mock-up in order to finalise the final garment.

The hood is folded inwards and compactly packed into the collar bag, which is then secured with Velcro

TWIN NEEDLE 0.7cm

FRONT
Notches added at side to allow neat turn over on itself
FRONT - with hood UP Side 32.2cm
Look 2 Jacket Development Process

Box pleat secured with backtack under waistband

Refer to the design tech packs for details on constructing the drawstring waist articulated cargo trousers featuring a box pleated front, flap pockets on the sides and at the base of each leg, and a hem adjuster.

Stitched eyelet adjustable channel.

Upon reflection, modified the trouser pattern to allow the fly to go into the waistband, as the initial design with a functioning zip was constrained by the waistband.

Edge stitch GL GL GL GL

Dart - 0.2cm Fly Piece Fly Guard

Working drawing Front R Front L

Front fly with zipper - TWIN NEEDLE 0.7cm

The Kalico mock-up helped determine optimal positioning for the trouser pocket flap.

Elasticated cuffStitched 1.5cm eyelets

0.2cm Stitch

Pattern Pieces for Zip/trouser front Pattern Pieces for Pocket bag Front Back Side Look 2 Trouser Development Process

TWIN NEEDLE 0.7cm

Inside leg panel in Ribstock Hybrid/ Aero™
Side Front
bagTop Inside leg panel Pocket bag - Base Flap GL GL GL GL
Pocket
0.2cm Stitch
Design review resulted in a single velcro piece under pocket flap to avoid tightness discomfort.

LOOK THREE

Colour reference

LOOK FOUR

Exploration of hooded collar/hooded element with reference to Nike

Research into back of Salopettes - understanding the form and shape

Look 3 and 4 development
Visible outer Stitch work
X Off -White CL Stowable hood with a cinchable hem Front - Tie on side Back Secure tack Contemporary wrap Front with pleated wide leg Deep armhole fully adjustable Piped edge Bar-code
Look 5 and 6 development
Belstaff Rift overshirt - Old SLAVE Oxford Collar Garment Analysis Neighbourhood officer shirt - Olive Drab Buttoned Placket
LOOK FIVE LOOK SIX
Silhouette Similarty to Look 2 Reference to Braun Dead Goop Herringbone Patchwork in reference to the backpack silhouette Initial shaping combined with a Moncler hooded knit. Designed for reduced restriction, even while performing sweeping athletic movements.
Illustrated first look
Primary Primary Primary Lining Waistcoat Trouser/Bag Jersey Secondary Binding Please refer to the Tech Pack for more detailed information on the materials used. Back Front Front Back Front Back Waistcoat Jersey Trousers LOOK ONE Lining
Cropped waistcoat with a central sash and pockets, paired with a ruched jersey top and balloon trousers featuring front pleats, sailor pant flap, snow gaiters, and multiple pockets.
Illustrated second look LOOK TWO Please refer to the Tech Pack for more detailed information on the materials used.
Double-logged exterior Jacket, with double front zip, detachable bag and bellow pocket; the trousers feature adjustable fabric span, front zipper and double front pleat, paired with a raglan Jersey undergarment.
Back Front Front Back
Secondary Secondary Primary Primary Primary Lining Jacket Trouser Jersey
Front Back Side Jacket Jersey Trousers
Styling

HIGHSNOBIETY

Market Level

These brands occupy different markets in the outerwear industry, with SACAI and JIL SANDER occupying luxury fashion segments, The North Face occupying the technical outdoor market at a mid- to high-level, while Highsnobiety occupying a high-to-mid-level market for streetwear.

The collection will position itself in the mid- to high-level market for high-quality, technical fashion collections with a strong fashion focus.

JIL SANDER SACAI The North Face

Unlocking new levels of performance and sustainability

Softer/more breathable in warm weather and stiffer/more wind proof in cold conditions.

COLOUR PROPORTION

Waterproof

breathable fabric membrane

Colour/Fabric
P200 FCF DISCOVERY Aequora AirPerm™ GORETEX and RIPSTOP GORE-TEX CON PACLITE® Delivers abrasion resistance, balances wind resistance with airflow, and stretch. Greys from light dove to dark charcoal Browns from light tan to deep chocolate Greens from soft mint to deep olive Blues range from light to dark Merino wool

The series of gesture line-ups have helped to visualize the overall silhouette and identify key details that can be further explored through sampling and on the mannequin stand.

Pop of colour for heat-sealed areas

Patch pockets

Dropped shoulders Reinforced cuffs

Adjustable pulls

Central high zippers

Streamlined hood

Logoed pockets

High-performance hood

Zip-off trousers

High neck

Utility loops

Combining streamlined & shell garments together Interesting chain-stitched patches

Gesture Line-up exploration

Heat-fused zipper into a side pocket

Waist adjuster

The high collar is designed to protect from the elements, and it can be adjusted to ensure a comfortable fit.

Look 1 Inital ideas and development
Seam seal construction is a crucial design element for the outer- shell look 1 garment Large Central Seam-Sealed Patch Pocket inspired by traditional hunting and outdoor jackets inner workings - provides ample storage space Outer quilted elements Sample 1 bonding seams in technical fabrications Initial inspiratation taken from deconstructed collages 3-way outer stitch Combining base layers with protective outer shells

Reflective piping

Contrasting panels add a striking visual effect

Shows a gathering of

Performance-focused - designed to give good protection and visibility

Initial inspiration

Look 2 Initial ideas and development
Lining print - inspires decorative accents to a practical garment Pocketing within lining Ary’teryx current hooded shape technical fabric within the hood when the elasticated channel is tightened

Unexpected shape designed from the main ‘Gilet’, asymmetrical hemline, dramatic high neck balaclava

Look 3 Initial ideas and development
Initial inspirtaton Inspiration pulled from Stone Island & Archival Reinvent’ collar Trim-fit base layer Inspired by the inner workings of a technical ski jacket membrane is the sloped shoulder design. Articulated patterning for unrestricted mobility ‘Designed for both function and fashion in mind’ Chest pocket with zip

Drawing inspiration from the inner workings of a jacket - maximum functionality can be achieved through extended collars , zippered pockets and two-way front zipper

Incorporates unique design elements to fit with Arc’teryx ‘Innovative design’

Arc'teryx jackets are designed to be versatile - durable zippers for detachable component

Look 4 Initial ideas and development
Ergonomic sleeves to provide a full range of motion Long parka combining down’s warmth with GORE-TEX’s weather protection. Initial inspirtaton

The placement of the pockets can also be adjusted to provide easy access while maintaining a streamlined look

Large climbing pockets , located both at the sides and front of the trousers designed with a zipper closures

Technical Working Drawing - Look 1 Trousers

A double zip-off knee is a feature that allows the wearer to convert the trousers into shorts while leaving the knee section intact.

Natural contours of the body, and can be incorporated into the design of Arc’teryx trousers with side pockets and a gusset to provide better fit and comfort.

Technical Working DrawingLook 3 Trousers

Trouser Initial ideas and development

P200 FCF

DISCOVERY (Light grey)

Merino wool (Navy)

GORETEX (Mint Green)

LOOK ONE

The product is a combination of a base layer and shell with a deep pocket featuring heat-fused zippers, along with double attachable zip-off trousers that have fused joins and chain decorative stitching.

RIPSTOP GORE-TEX CON

PACLITE® (Grey)

GORETEX (Navy)

Merino wool (Green)

A photosynthetic coating is applied to all GORETEX and P200 FCF DISCOVERY fabrics.

Refer to the technical notes for more information

P200 FCF

DISCOVERY (Light blue)

P200 FCF

DISCOVERY (Light grey)

Aequora AirPerm™ (Deep Olive)

Aequora AirPerm™ (Chocolate)

LOOK TWO

Combination of an asymmetrical gilet and a base layer, fastened with a rope and featuring a deep pocket with heat-fused zippers. The accompanying trousers boast a unique balloon shaping with ankle tailoring and sleek side panel loops.

Illustrated first and second look

P200 FCF DISCOVERY (Light blue)

P200 FCF DISCOVERY (Light grey)

LOOK THREE

Shell jacket featuring a dropped shoulder silhouette and a central curved zip. The jacket includes inner utility pockets for added storage convenience. It pairs perfectly with zip-off at the knee trousers, allowing for easy transformation into shorts.

GORETEX (Navy)

P200 FCF

DISCOVERY (Light grey)

A photosynthetic coating is applied to all GORETEX and P200 FCF DISCOVERY fabrics. Refer to the technical notes for more information

P200 FCF DISCOVERY (Light blue)

GORETEX (Mint Green)

Aequora AirPerm™ (Deep Olive)

Illustrated third and fourth look

Aequora AirPerm™ (Charcoal Grey)

LOOK FOUR

Versatile parka puffa with a shell hood that can be zipped off at the waist for a customizable look. Paired with articulated trousers featuring heat-fused pockets for durability and functionality. This ensemble offers style and practicality for various occasions.

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