SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • May 2023

jewellerynews

Geneva, the luxury watch capital

40th World Diamond Congress

WE LOOK AT

A guide to watch movements

Gems formed in magmatic rocks

9. NEWS

• De Beers Group and GIA enhance co-operation to strengthen consumer confidence

• WFDB concludes successful 40th World Diamond Congress

• Julia Roberts joins Chopard as global ambassador

• Free Jewellex365 exhibitor subscription for JCSA members

• GIA returns to printed diamond dossier reports

• PlatAfrica pop-up store still open

16. RECORD FIGURES FOR WATCHES AND WONDERS

Watches and Wonders Geneva closed its 2023 edition with results that exceed expectations and best forecasts. All of its indicators are well above previous editions. The salon confirms its trajectory as well as its position on the world watchmaking scene, thanks to controlled growth and a common voice.

20. A GUIDE TO WATCH MOVEMENTS

All watches, regardless of style or design, are powered by a movement or calibre. The movement is essentially the engine that makes a watch function – the mechanism that makes the hands move – and that powers other functions such as calendars, dual time zones and chronographs.

CONTENTS

22. ROLEX PRESENTS ITS LATEST CREATIONS

The new Rolex watches illustrate a desire to reinvent while preserving a sense of continuity, to innovate while being mindful of tradition and to leverage technology in daring to create.

25. GEMS FORMED IN MAGMATIC ROCKS

The rigid outer layers of the earth are composed of minerals and rocks. In this two-part feature, Aaron C Palke and James E Shigley focus on gem minerals that form in magmatic environments.

34. THE RISE OF INHORGENTA MUNICH CONTINUES

Inhorgenta Munich opened for four days at the end of February and provided a refreshing change from the conflicts plaguing the Swiss industry exhibitors in recent years. Martin Foster, international watch correspondent for SAJN and reviewer for the Horological Journal

(BHI – UK), reflects on the 2023 edition following a remarkable increase in attendance.

38. GEMFIELDS DISCLOSES LATEST “G-FACTOR” FIGURES

The “G-Factor for Natural Resources” was unveiled in July 2021 by Gemfields as a way of promoting transparency on the level of natural resource wealth shared with host country governments.

44. BORN IN AFRICA

A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of SA.

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa.

www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2023. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

Editor: Adri Viviers

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za

Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed

E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus

Cell: 083-450-6052

E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za

Creative Director: Joanne Brook

E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za

Operations Director: Thuli Majola

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

Advertising Sales:

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

Cell: 083-450-6052

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

DO PEOPLE STILL WEAR WATCHES?

Yes, they do.

People have all kinds of motivations for strapping time to their wrists and to get a taste of “public opinion”, I asked the SA Jewellery News team who wears a watch and why.

“I wear a watch to tell the time. It may be obvious, but the watch is the most convenient device to keep track of the hour,” says Creative Director Joanne Brook. “All that’s needed is a glance at my wrist. Not only is it simpler to check the time that way, but it helps prevent me from getting ‘stuck’ on my phone.”

Media Specialist Paris Nelwamodo wears his smartwatch every day. “I grew up knowing that gentlemen wear watches and also that as a man, an outfit for special occasions is incomplete without one.”

Director Jenny Justus wears both a traditional watch and a smartwatch –depending on the occasion. “I wear my smartwatch when I hit the malls or while training, as a means of keeping track of my workouts. Otherwise, I wear a traditional watch, if it matches my outfit.”

For Ulemu Chikoti, who administers SAJN ’s distribution, it is a great accessory,

as it dresses up any outfit. “It feels as if a piece of me is missing without it,” she says. She also prefers looking at her watch to tell the time. “It’s a hassle looking for my phone in my handbag. Glancing at my wrist is much quicker.”

For Media Specialist Nosipho Tukulula, his watch is not only an accessory, but saves him “bothering” others by asking what the time is.

As for me, I wear a watch for all the above reasons, including my admiration of the immense craftsmanship that goes into creating a high-end timepiece.

Many others also wear watches for their beauty, as an investment, out of sentiment or out of habit.

Far from becoming extinct, there is great interest in watches as their sales – and prices – continue to rise, so much so that when the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry released its statistics for the whole of last year, it confirmed that exports were up massively and that 2022 was indeed a record year for the Swiss watch industry.

Adri Viviers

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has a decades-long history of diamond grading innovation. From the colorimeter – first introduced in the 1940s – to using artificial intelligence for clarity grading, each new technology enhances the grading process, adding efficiency, consistency and advancing the GIA’s consumer protection mission. For more information visit: www.gia.edu

Tel: +27 11 334 4527

Cell: +27 83 656 9013

Website: www.egl.co.za

GIA returns to printed diamond dossier reports

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has returned to producing printed GIA Diamond Dossier reports. All diamonds in GIA laboratories submitted on or after 9 April for the Diamond Dossier service will be returned with a printed GIA Diamond Dossier report.

The printed reports will be the same as those issued before the introduction of the digital-only report in January 2023. The GIA will, at no cost and upon request, provide a printed GIA Diamond Dossier to the submitting client for diamonds that received a digital-only report. The digital version of the report and the

digital report access card will remain available for those who prefer this format.

The institute made the decision to return to the printed reports based on concerns expressed by GIA clients, manufacturers, brokers, wholesalers, brands and retailers regarding the challenges of integrating the digital-only report into their processes, potentially disrupting their businesses and affecting consumer trust.

“We didn’t adequately anticipate the challenges of adopting the digital-only GIA Diamond Dossier report,” said Pritesh Patel,

GIA Senior Vice-President and Chief Operating Officer. “The GIA will continue to provide the printed reports that enhance consumer trust, while working to develop robust, secure and compelling digital versions of all our reports.”

Clients may request a no-cost printed GIA Diamond Dossier for diamonds that received a digital-only report. Requests, including the original report number and the submitting client’s name, should be e-mailed to: DossierRequest@gia.edu. Report information will continue to be available in the GIA’s app and on its online Report Check Service and API.

WFDB concludes successful 40th World Diamond Congress

The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) concluded a very successful 40th World Diamond Congress, held in Ramat Gan from 28-30 March 2023 as part of Israel Diamond Week.

Themed “Change and Innovation in the New Diamond Reality”, the congress was attended by presidents and officers of most of the 27 member bourses, as well as dozens of Young Diamantaires. In addition to speeches by WFDB leaders President Yoram Dvash, Vice-President Moshe Salem and Israel Diamond Week host Boaz Moldawsky, the congress featured talks by DRC Minister of Mines HE Antoinette N’Samba Kalambayi, De Beers Co-Chairperson Bruce Cleaver, WDC President Edward Asscher, Natural Diamond Council CEO David Kellie, Chow Tai Fook, Vice-Chairperson Conroy Cheng, Young Diamantaire Rachel Sahar, Sarine CEO David Block and representative of the Minister of Mines of Zimbabwe Elton Makumbe. In addition, there were enlightening talks by Prof

Alon Chen, President of the Weizmann Institute and Aryeh Lightstone, former US special envoy for the Abraham Accords.

Dvash addressed the theme of the congress in his opening speech. “Today conditions are changing, the business climate’s changing, the consumers are changing and the competition’s changing. We must study the changes and take steps to adapt. If we, as leaders of the world diamond industry, don’t adapt, the industry will fall behind,” he said. Dvash called upon the industry to embrace the wisdom of the younger generation and invite the Young Diamantaires to join in shaping the future of the industry.

During the congress, Dvash was re-elected as WFDB President and elections were held for WFDB officers and the Executive Committee. They included Vice-Presidents Moshe Salem and Philippe Barsamian, Secretary-General Rony Unterman and Treasurer-General Mehul

Julia Roberts joins Chopard as global ambassador

Actress Julia Roberts (55) has been the face of Chopard’s Happy Sport and Happy Diamonds collection since 2021, but the Notting Hill star has now been named the global ambassador for all of the women’s collections. She will represent all the maison’s

Shah, as well as Ahmed Bin Sulayem, Lin Qiang, Elliot Krischer, Boaz Moldawsky, Anoop Mehta, Rami Baron, Alan Cohen, Molefi Letsiki and Lawrence Ma as the Executive Committee.

The congress reviewed topics currently affecting the industry. Various delegates expressed reservations about the GIA’s move to digital certificates and it was decided that the WFDB would present these to the GIA. Another discussion focused on the generic marketing of diamonds and resulted in a decision by the WFDB to begin a collaboration with the Natural Diamond Council. A committee was established to enhance the image of the WFDB globally. It was also decided to involve the Young Diamantaires in the institutions and decision-making of the WFDB.

watch, high jewellery and luxury jewellery collections for women. She features in a series of black and white portraits and Chopard Loves Cinema video vignettes, the first of which was released on 20 March this year.

Free Jewellex365 exhibitor subscription for JCSA members

Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA) members can now sign up to activate their free exhibition subscription on the Jewellex365 online B2B platform until the end of August.

Launched by the JCSA in June last year, the platform has been developed in line with the global digitalisation of jewellery business platforms. “It’s a natural and much-needed online resource and an integral part of how we do business and collaborate,” says Lorna Lloyd, the council’s CEO. “The JCSA had no hesitation in investing in this platform and in its development – based on research and excellent feedback – and the clear need to keep our industry moving forward.”

Jewellex365 offers a fantastic opportunity for sellers and buyers to connect directly with each other and is marketed to the industry via the JCSA’s website, social media and e-mail.

Sellers will be able to continuously upload and display new products and services throughout the year, which will encourage an ongoing flow of potential buyers.

Both exhibitors and buyers are vetted upon registration. Members and non-members are invited to apply. Non-member pricing can be viewed at: https://jewellex365.co.za/pricing/.

For further information, contact Elsa da Silva at e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za.

Strong rebound in jewellery sales for Titan

Titan Company’s jewellery revenue climbed in the fourth fiscal quarter. Sales for the segment grew 23% year-on-year for the three months ending 31 March.

A revival in weddings as COVID-19 eased contributed to the rise, as did lower gold prices, the company noted.

The festive season also boosted sales in January and February. However, the momentum weakened in March due to a sudden spike in gold prices, which led to a softening of demand.

Sales of watches and wearables increased 41%, while e-commerce business CaratLane surged 56%.

Titan opened 31 new jewellery shops during the quarter, domestically and overseas.

De Beers Group and GIA enhance co-operation to strengthen consumer confidence

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) will join Tracr, the world’s only distributed diamond blockchain platform that starts at the source. GIA’s participation in Tracr will see the world’s leading diamond grading laboratory include an immutable record of the provenance of polished diamonds in its diamond grading reports for the first time, as the industry continues to progress towards a unified approach for provenance assurance.

Consumers purchasing a diamond traced from the source by Tracr and graded by GIA will receive a GIA grading report with enhanced information about the provenance of their diamond. As De Beers Group registers more diamonds on Tracr, which are then traced through the value chain, the cooperation between GIA and Tracr represents a step-change in the diamond industry’s ability to provide provenance assurance at scale for consumers.

GIA’s participation on the Tracr platform builds on an agreement between De Beers and GIA to deepen co-operation in support of consumer confidence in natural diamonds. As part of this effort, GIA will explore how to incorporate additional information about the positive impact of natural diamonds with its natural diamond grading reports. GIA and De Beers have a long and successful track record of working together in areas that advance the industry and protect consumers’ interests, including the identification of laboratory-grown diamonds and diamond treatments.

Ryan Perry, Acting Executive Vice-

President of Strategy & Innovation for De Beers Group, said: “As the issue of diamond provenance rapidly grows in importance for stakeholders across the diamond value chain, having immutable data about a diamond’s journey from the source on grading reports is a major step forward and will underpin consumer confidence. We're delighted to see GIA – the largest provider of diamond grading reports in the diamond industry – join Tracr and lead the way. We've always believed in the importance of having a single provenance solution for the diamond industry, and Tracr’s leading technological solution and ability to operate at scale are extremely important for meeting emerging needs in this area. We look forward to bringing more key industry players on board with Tracr in the near future.”

Pritesh Patel, GIA Senior Vice-President and Chief Operating Officer, said: “Ensuring consumer confidence by providing trusted, impartial information about their diamonds is at the core of GIA’s consumer protection mission. Working with De Beers to bring others in the industry to Tracr will expand the reach and positive impact of the platform.”

Tracr is the world’s first fully distributed diamond blockchain platform that starts at the source and operates at scale. It has registered more than 1 million rough diamonds at source and 110 000 diamonds at the manufacturer level securely on their dedicated Tracr instances.

PlatAfrica pop-up store still open

Annually, Anglo American Platinum, Platinum Guild International (PGI) India and Metal Concentrators host the PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacture competition, which celebrates and supports the South African platinum industry by giving student, apprentice and professional jewellers the opportunity to work, experiment, innovate and develop their technical expertise with the metal. PlatAfrica highlights the strength and beauty of platinum, while revealing the glowing jeweller talent of South Africa.

African jewellers

Every year an original theme is chosen for the competition, producing one-of-akind, statement pieces of jewellery. Every year many of those pieces are melted down in order to re-use the precious platinum.

The PlatAfrica pop-up store, which is exclusively online, provides the public with an opportunity to invest in the precious resource of platinum and in the SA jewellery industry. To view or shop pieces from the PlatAfrica 2022 Hope collection, visit: https://plat.africa/.

Largest JAR collection ever to appear at auction

Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in Geneva on 17 May will be offering the largest collection of JAR jewels ever to come to auction. The auction will follow the sales of the jewels from The World of Heidi Horten taking place the week prior (10 and 12 May).

Christie’s has had the privilege to offer some of the most important JAR collections in the world, including those of Ellen Barkin in October 2006, the Lily Safra Jewels for Hope Collection sold to benefit multiple charitable organisations in 2012 and, more recently, 12 JAR jewels from the Collection of Ann Getty.

This May 2023, this fabulous collection, offering 25 JAR creations, will become the largest JAR collection ever to appear at auction, spanning 40 years of creativity.

This collection was built over the past 15 years by an important art and jewel collector who encountered the art of JAR 20 years ago during the important exhibition The Jewels

of JAR, Paris which took place in London between 2002 and 2003 at Somerset House. Five years later, the collector was in a position to acquire a first jewel by the master of jewellery and after 15 year of collecting, the time has come to pass the jewels to JAR enthusiasts around the globe.

Joel Arthur Rosenthal pairs unusual gemstones with non-traditional materials and has a daring way with colour and proportion. The quality of his work recalls the jewellery of the 18th and 19th centuries. In 2013, JAR was the first living “artist of gems” to be honoured with a retrospective at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art. It is an exhibition which has been visited 15 times by the collector of this exceptional collection.

Inspired by nature, the camellia brooch became a signature JAR design. It epitomises JAR’s extraordinary attention to detail as he pushes the boundaries between

jewellery and sculpture as can be observed in the pair of diamond, tourmaline and agate camelia brooches offered on 17 May with an estimate of CHF300 000400 000. Among the 15 pairs of earrings, one-third are also inspired by nature, such as a pair of carved nephrite jade and diamond geranium earrings (estimate: CHF20 000-30 000) or the iconic and delicate diamond ivy leaf earrings designed in 1991 (estimate: CHF300 000-500 000). These earrings were part of the Somerset Exhibition The Jewels of JAR, Paris which took place in London between 2002 and 2003.

Breitling to use only lab-grown diamonds by 2024

Luxury watchmaker Breitling says it will phase out mined stones by the end of 2024 as it plans to create “end-to-end traceability” for its entire watch portfolio. It will also transition completely to gold sourced from artisanal and small-scale miners in 2025 that meet criteria set by the Swiss Better Gold Association.

Together with the recent announcement, Breitling released its first watch bearing artisanal gold and labgrown diamonds, the Super Chronomat Automatic

38 Origins. The timepiece’s entire chain of custody has been traced and recorded in a blockchain-backed non-fungible token (NFT).

“Consumers are increasingly reflecting on the products they buy and what goes into them,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “We want to give them those answers up-front.”

Breitling’s decision to transition to lab-grown diamonds and artisanal gold addressed buyers’ growing concerns over provenance.

Watches and Wonders

Geneva closed its 2023 edition with results that exceed expectations and best forecasts. All of its indicators are well above previous editions. The salon confirms its trajectory as well as its position on the world watchmaking scene, thanks to controlled growth and a common voice.

THE INNOVATIONS WERE NUMEROUS, as were the expectations. Watches and Wonders, which ran from 27 March-1 April, has redoubled in creativity, innovation and openness in order to keep pace with a rapidly growing global watch market (24,8 billion Swiss francs in 2022).

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023 closed with record figures, with 43 000 unique visitors (22 000 in 2022) over the whole week, 5 400 retailers, 125 nationalities and 35 000 overnight stays, while the number of end-consumers doubled during the first five days.

The number of shares on social networks exceeded all expectations, with 1,8 million posts mentioning #watchesandwonders and an estimated reach of over 600 million people – more than half a billion – an all-time high.

Record figures for Watches and

The press recorded an increase of over 50% in attendance with the return of the Asian markets, ie a total of 1 400 journalists present in Geneva, with 13 000 registrations for the 1 800 Touch & Feel sessions enabling them to discover and handle the year’s new releases, not to mention the 2 600 journalists who were able to follow the entire programme online.

Retailers racked up more than 8 000 appointments, confirming the unfailing appeal of watchmaking in all its markets, particularly in Europe, which alone accounted for 70% of visitors.

All 12 000 tickets were sold out before the weekend started. Aside from the statistics, Watches and Wonders has proven its appeal to the younger generation: 25% of the tickets sold were purchased by people under 25, with an average ticketholder age of 35. These visitors were particularly attracted to the LAB experience, which offered them a vision of the future of watchmaking. The salon thus brings together and federates two to three generations at the same – watchmaking crossroads.

This hub now extends well beyond Palexpo and offers the salon new horizons. The “In the City” experience marks an important turning point in the development of Watches and Wonders

(Right and below): Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon.

Wonders

Geneva, engaging the city and the general public who were drawn by special events in the boutiques and other points of interest in the watchmaking capital. The Avener’s concert filled the quayside and had both

locals and international visitors

dancing to the rhythm of watch movements. Exciting new watch releases included:

Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon

The understated tourbillon piece from Frederique Constant is a limited edition –only 150 pieces will be made and each one is numbered. Its purity of form and refined colours make it a beautiful investment.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 4997/200R-001

This Patek Philippe model now comes in all-over imperial magenta, its richness achieved with 50 layers of transparent lacquer over a guillochéd dial.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date

For the first time, this venerable

brand adds a romantic moon phase and its popular retrograde date function to the best-selling Overseas line.

Tudor Black Bay 54

The Black Bay 54 pays homage to the one the brand released in 1954. While there are plenty of iterations of the Black Bay sports watch, this one is as true to the original as it could be.

TAG Heuer Carrera Date

To celebrate the 60th anniversary of its Carrera Date model, TAG Heuer has reimagined it with a newly streamlined silhouette in its original 36 mm diameter, a mechanical upgrade and a bold colour palette.

Gucci Grip

Gucci’s range of statement “Grip” jumping hour watches first launched in 2019 and is inspired by 1970’s skateboarding culture. This year, the brand has added two new, vibrant hardstone dials to the collection, one in brick-red jasper and the other in apple-green chrysoprase.

(Below): Patek Philippe Calatrava 4997/200R-001.

(Right, from top): TAG Heuer Carrera Date and Gucci Grip.

(Below): Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date.

(Left and above): Tudor Black Bay 54.

Chanel J12 Cybernetic

Part of Chanel’s new Interstellar collection, this new member of the J12 family takes the brand’s signature monochrome into a bold, new dimension. One side is in conventional black ceramic, the other asymmetrical in stepped white ceramic, extending a pattern of white pixels lacquered on the black dial.

Chopard Happy Sport

Chopard’s Happy Sport has been reimagined this year with a vibrant blue and purple chameleon dial with guilloché decoration, plus the “floating” diamonds for which the model is known.

Grand Seiko Limited-Edition Spring Drive

This limited-edition platinum timepiece was hand-engraved by artisans in Japan and inspired by a snow-covered forest.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier

This new interpretation of Cartier’s Tank Louis Cartier model features a three-colour mosaic of tiny squares in yellow gold, rose gold and white gold, in homage to the Tank Must dials of the 1970s.

Patek Phillipe Aquanaut

Patek Philippe revisited its sporty Aquanaut in rose gold with a warm, sunburst-brown dial. Brown has been trending in fashion for the past several seasons, with many among the fashion crowd wearing monochromatic looks in chocolate shades, making this the on-trend timepiece perfect for right now.

IWC Ingénieur Automatic 40 IWC also returned to the 1970s for inspiration for this new limited-edition Ingénieur, a reinterpretation of Gérald Genta’s renowned Ingénieur SL design. The original design from 1976 has been brought up to date with a polished stainless steel case, bezel and bracelet, an IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre and four new dial colours.

The number of shares on social networks exceeded all expectations, with 1,8 million posts mentioning #watchesandwonders and an estimated reach of over 600 million people –more than half a billion – an all-time high.

(Left): Chanel J12 Cybernetic.

(Right): Patek Phillipe Aquanaut.

(Above, from left): Chopard Happy Sport and the Cartier Tank Louis Cartier.

(Above): Grand Seiko Limited-Edition Spring Drive.

A guide to watch movements

IT IS TYPICAL FOR WATCH COLLECTORS TO choose a watch based on its looks, but true watch connoisseurs give equal attention to its functions, particularly to its internal mechanisms.

These inner workings, called the movement or calibre, determine how a watch works. Often described as the heart of a watch, the movement dictates how accurate the watch will be and how often the wearer needs to interact with their timepiece.

Watch movements can be categorised into three different types: manual wind, automatic and quartz.

Manual and automatic movements are both mechanical, with parts made up only of mechanical elements like gears and springs, and do not need batteries. Quartz movements, however, have an electrical circuit and require a battery to run.

While battery-run movements are inherently more accurate, mechanical movements are more prized because they are more labourintensive to build and, with proper care, can last a lifetime. Of course, artistry is also a consideration – mechanical movements are the result of centuries of expertise and craftsmanship.

Manual movement

A manual movement is the oldest type of movement, dating back to the 16th century. It is also called a hand-wound movement, because in order to keep moving, it must be wound by hand daily in order to create energy in the watch’s mainspring.

Manual movements are often beloved for their complex and beautifully crafted springs and gears, usually displayed through a watch’s case-back. The action of winding the watch also becomes a form of ritual for the wearer.

All watches, regardless of style or design, are powered by a movement or calibre. The movement is essentially the engine that makes a watch function – the mechanism that makes the hands move – and that powers other functions such as calendars, dual time zones and chronographs. SwissWatchExpo, a leading online retailer of authentic, pre-owned luxury watches, simplifies the three basic types of watch movements.

Both of these aspects enchant watch connoisseurs and watchmakers, thus making manual wind movements the most preferred type of movement. They are often found in expensive, collectable and conservative timepieces.

Automatic movement

The automatic movement is also called the selfwinding movement. Introduced in the early 20th century, it harnesses kinetic energy from the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. How does an automatic movement accomplish this? With a metal weight called the rotor, which is added to the manual parts. The rotor most often comes in a semi-circular weight that swings 360˚ as the wrist moves, consequently winding the mainspring and keeping the watch powered. With automatic movements, the ritual of daily

winding is unnecessary. As long as the watch is worn often, it will continue to be wound. However, it will run down over time if it is not worn regularly, thus requiring manual winding.

Quartz movement

The quartz movement was introduced by Japanese watchmaker Seiko in 1969. Quartz movements utilise a battery as their main power source.

The battery sends electricity through a piece of crystal quartz, creating a signal with precise frequency. This results in the consistent movement of the watch hands. It is currently the most accurate type of movement.

With a low number of moving parts, quartz watches are easier to produce and maintain and are therefore cheaper than manual and automatic movements.

– Information courtesy of swisswatchexpo.com

While battery-run movements are inherently more accurate, mechanical movements are more prized because they are more labour-intensive to build and, with proper care, can last a lifetime. Of course, artistry is also a consideration – mechanical movements are the result of centuries of expertise and craftsmanship.

Rolex presents its latest creations

new Rolex

WITH ITS LATEST CREATIONS, ROLEX DEMONSTRATES its perpetual pursuit of excellence. An ever-present challenge is manifested in the brand’s ambition to perfect every component, question every method and master every aspect of watchmaking expertise. Only through exacting demands are exemplary timepieces formed. These are watches that, with time, become icons.

Cosmograph Daytona

To mark the 60th anniversary of the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, this iconic timepiece sports a new look. The design of its case and face has been restyled, with subtle refinements to certain details. Its new movement, calibre 4131, incorporates a number of the brand’s major innovations and features bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève finishing.

1908

Elegant, classic and decidedly contemporary, the Perpetual 1908 immortalises Rolex’s age-long daring spirit. Its slim case is defined by gracious lines, a bezel that is partly domed and partly finely fluted, and a transparent case-back. At its heart beats calibre 7140, an entirely new movement distinctive for its innovative design and the Rolex Côtes de Genève decoration on its bridges.

The

watches illustrate a desire to reinvent while preserving a sense of continuity, to innovate while being mindful of tradition and to leverage technology in daring to create.

(Below): Cosmograph Daytona.

(Above): 1908.

Yacht Master 42

An emblematic nautical timepiece, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master 42 is introduced for the first time in RLX titanium – a particularly strong, but lightweight alloy – and is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. This new version combines polished, high-sheen and technical satin finishes that illustrate the brand’s excellence in finishing techniques.

Sky-Dweller

The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller has been updated with aesthetic and technical enhancements. A version in 18ct white gold on an Oysterflex bracelet has notably joined the range. Among the variants presented are a white Rolesor version with a mintgreen dial and an 18ct Everose gold watch with a blue-green dial – a new colour. The Sky Dweller is equipped with an optimised movement, calibre 9002.

GMT Master II

The Oyster Perpetual GMT

Master II is released in two new versions decked in 18ct yellow gold – one a yellow Rolesor version and the other crafted

entirely in this precious metal. Both new watches feature a bezel with a twocolour Cerachrom insert in grey – a new shade – and black ceramic. They are fitted exclusively on a Jubilee bracelet and, on the dial, the name “GMT Master II” is visible in a powdered yellow colour.

Explorer 40

The Explorer range is expanded with a new model, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40. This watch is crafted from Oystersteel and measures 40 mm in diameter. True to the original version launched in 1953, its black lacquer dial carries the numerals 3, 6 and 9, together with the Professional hands, all firmly associated with the identity of this timepiece which embodies the spirit of adventure and perseverance.

Oyster Perpetual

Alive with colour, vitality and positivity, the Oyster Perpetual 31, Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41 are emblematic of a new dial decoration. Composed of differently sized bubbles fringed with black, the motif encapsulates the vivid colours of the lacquered dials introduced in 2020 – candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green.

Day-Date 36

The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 features resplendent dials made of decorative stone in shimmering tones that evoke the atmosphere of the Mediterranean coast. The dial is cut from green aventurine on the first variant, made of 18ct Everose gold, from carnelian on the second, fashioned in 18ct yellow gold and from turquoise on the third watch, which is in 18ct white gold.

Day-Date 36 variants

Rolex brings an unexpected creative twist to the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, introducing three new variants crafted from 18ct yellow, white or Everose gold, which daily display an inspirational keyword in English in the aperture at 12 o’clock and an exclusive emoji in the window at 3 o’clock. Their dials, created using champlevé enamelling, reveal a motif inspired by a jigsaw puzzle and 10 baguettecut sapphires in six different hues

(Left): Yacht Master.

(Right, from top): GMT Master II and Oyster Perpetual 36.

(Left and below): Day-Date 36.

(Below): Explorer 40.

(Above): Sky-Dweller.

The rigid outer layers of the earth (the lithosphere) are composed of minerals and rocks. Minerals are natural chemical compounds that form in certain geological environments and sets of physical and chemical conditions. In the lithosphere, the main mechanisms for mineral formation are cooling and solidification from igneous magmas, crystallization from hightemperature hydrothermal solutions or vapors, crystallization from low-temperature aqueous solutions, and solid-state mineral recrystallization during metamorphism. Gem minerals can be formed by any of these mechanisms.

Minerals have specific chemical compositions and arrangements of constituent atoms (i.e., crystal structure). Approximately 5,800 mineral species are currently recognized by the International Mineralogical Association (IMA), most of them rare and narrowly distributed. Despite the variety of mineral species, almost 97% of the earth’s crust is made up of a few elements: oxygen, silicon, aluminum, iron, calcium, sodium, potassium, and magnesium. Hence, the crust is dominated by a small handful of minerals containing these elements (feldspars,

quartzes, pyroxenes, amphiboles, and micas). While these minerals are occasionally found as gem-quality pieces, most natural gems are rarer mineral phases that fortunately occur in specific deposits as crystals of a size and quality that can be faceted or polished.

This edition of Colored Stones Unearthed will focus on gem minerals that form in magmatic environments (figure 1). Other environments of gem formation will be discussed in future columns.

Mineral Formation in Magmas

Magmatic minerals form during the cooling and crystallization of magmas (molten rock) in certain portions of the earth’s lithosphere and at the surface (figure 2). These magmas vary in chemical composition, but for most the dominant chemical

Editors’ note: Questions or topics of interest should be directed to Aaron Palke (apalke@gia.edu) or James Shigley (jshigley@gia.edu).

GEMS & GEMOLOGY, VOL. 58, NO. 4, pp. 494–506.

© 2022 Gemological Institute of America

Figure 3. This diagram illustrates various locations where molten magmas can reside in the crust above a large magma chamber, as well as the channels or conduits by which they can reach the surface to form volcanoes: active magma chamber (A), mantle xenolith in chamber (B), laccolith (C), sill (D), dike (E), and volcanic conduit (F). Modified from Johnson et al. (2017).

Figure 1. These examples of gem minerals that formed in magmatic environments are part of GIA’s Eduard Gübelin Collection. From top to bottom and left to right: 29.96 ct sanidine feldspar from Germany, 53.00 ct peridot from Myanmar, 11.58 ct zircon from Thai-land, 20.66 ct topaz from Utah, 2.05 ct sapphire from Thailand, 18.36 ct pyrope garnet from the Czech Republic, 19.55 ct black spinel from Thailand, and 2.50 ct ruby from Thailand. Photos by Robert Weldon.

Figure 2. Eruption of the Tungurahua volcano in Ecuador. Various gem minerals can crystallize from molten magmas in the earth’s crust or when the magmas erupt at the surface. Magmas also bring up pieces of mantle or crustal rocks called xenoliths that are of great value for scientific study. Courtesy of Sebastián Crespo Photography/Moment/Getty Images.

component is silica (SiO2). The amount of SiO2 in a magma dictates many of the properties and eruptive behaviors of volcanic events, and silica concentration can tell researchers a great deal about the geological history of a magma. Basalts, for instance, are silica-poor magmas (typically ~50 wt.%), while rhyolites have high silica contents (typically >70 wt.%). Magmas can form when temperatures rise in the earth and melting of pre-existing rocks occurs in the lower crust or upper mantle. Decreases in pressure or the introduction of water or other volatile components can also result in the production of magma deep within the earth. Once formed, magmas can either travel through the crust via fissures, form large magma-filled chambers in other rocks, or be erupted at the earth’s surface through volcanic vents (figure 3).

Whatever their origin, the cooling of magmas results in the crystallization of igneous rocks, which are classified according to their texture and mineral composition (table 1). As the magma’s temperature decreases and it begins to solidify, mineral formation can occur below the surface (to form intrusive or plutonic or phaneritic rocks with coarser grain size due to slower gradual magma cooling). Alternatively, magma that is erupted at the surface will solidify quickly, often leading to small grain sizes of the constituent minerals (to form extrusive or aphanitic rocks) (figure 4).

Volcanic Eruptions

A volcano forms above an underground magma chamber and is created where the magma is vented or erupted at the earth’s surface. Volcanoes occur at specific locations of the crust that are associated with the creation, lateral movement, and then subduction of crustal plates. Most volcanoes are located along boundaries of crustal plates, either at divergent plate boundaries (mid-ocean ridges or continental rift zones where crustal plates separate) or convergent plate boundaries (subduction zones where plates collide). Some volcanoes also occur within crustal plates where they form above “hot spots,” anomalously hot areas of the upper mantle. Below Hawaii, for example, successive islands were created as the crustal plate gradually moved over a thermal feature where magmas were

Figure

lithosphere – the solid outer portion of the crust – consists of crustal plates that gradually move laterally over geologic time scales due to convection in the underlying molten asthenosphere. Plates form and then separate along divergent plate boundaries. They come together with one plate colliding or being subducted beneath an adjacent plate along convergent boundaries. Slow movement of crustal plates has resulted in the continents changing position relative to one another in the geologic past. Plate collisions produce uplifted mountain ranges along the collision boundary, as in the Himalayas and the Andes, as well as deep oceanic trenches. Most volcanoes are located along mid-ocean ridges and continental rift zones and along subduction zones. Some also occur within crustal plates, where they form above “hot spots” in the underlying asthenosphere. Plate movement over a hot spot can produce a chain of nearby volcanic islands such as those in Hawaii.

a central silicon atom, is the basic structural unit of silicate minerals, which form approximately 90% of the earth’s crust. By sharing one or more of the oxygen atoms, these tetrahedra can bond together in various ways (such as pairs, single and double chains, rings, sheets, and frameworks of tetrahedra). Silicate minerals are classified according to the linkage of their silica tetrahedra, or their degree of polymerization, as shown by these illustrations. Illustrations produced using the VESTA software package (Momma and Izumi, 2011).

generated (figure 5). Depending on their chemical composition, silica-poor magmas like basalts are very fluid when erupted (and non-explosive), and they flow down the gentle slopes of volcanoes as molten lava (a shield volcano such as Mauna Kea in Hawaii). Other, more silica-rich magmas like rhyolites are much more viscous and explosive. When erupted, they form higher steep-sided volcanoes that often produce violent ash

Figure 4. Two examples of important igneous rocks. Rhyolite (left) is an aphanitic extrusive igneous rock, while granite (right) is a phaneritic intrusive igneous rock. They are similar in chemical composition but differ in the size of their constituent mineral grains because they cool and solidify at different rates under different geological conditions. Photos by James St. John/Wikipedia Commons.

5. The

Figure 6. The silica tetra-hedron, consisting of four oxygen atoms arranged around

cloud explosions or pyroclastic debris flows, depositing the particle material along the margins of the volcano or over the surrounding countryside (e.g., a strato-volcano such as Mount Vesuvius in Italy).

Magmas may solidify underground to form various types of intrusive igneous rock bodies. Depending on size and shape, geologists use terms to describe these rock bodies (all of which may be later exposed at the earth’s surface by geological processes such as folding, faulting, crustal up-lift, and weathering; see again figure 3):

• Dike: a narrow rock body that cuts across other rocks

• Sill: a narrow rock body that runs parallel to sedimentary layers

• Diapir: a domed body of igneous rock that has been forced upward into brittle overlying rocks

• Pluton (or batholith): a large mass of igneous rock

• Laccolith (or lopolith): a body of igneous rock that bulges upward or downward

Magma Crystallization

Minerals in the crust crystallize from magmas over a range of temperatures (~1300° to ~750°C). Most magmas are silicabased compositions and classified according to their silica content, from silica-poor magmas like basalts (~50 wt.% SiO2) to intermediate magmas like andesites (~60 wt.% SiO2) to silicarich magmas like rhyolites (>70 wt.% SiO2). Silicate magmas are dominated by oxygen and silicon, and they contain lesser amounts of aluminum, calcium, magnesium, iron, sodium, and potassium as well as rarer elements. Non-silica-based magmas such as carbonatites are much less common and can form only under specific geological conditions.

The silica tetrahedron (SiO4) is the basic building block of all silicate minerals. It consists of a central silicon atom bonded to four oxygen atoms that form a tetrahedral arrangement. Silica tetrahedra can also bond to one another by sharing one or more of their oxygen atoms to form more complex tetrahedral arrangements (such as pairs, single or double chains, rings, sheets, and frameworks of bonded tetrahedra; see figure 6). These tetrahedra are further connected by atoms of other elements to form the crystal structures of various silicate minerals such as olivine, epidote, pyroxenes, amphiboles, beryl, mica, and feldspars, to name a few.

Several geologic factors influence the evolution of magma composition and crystallization. These include the initial composition of the magma source, the presence of volatiles such as water or elements like fluorine in the magma, partial

Figure 7. Based on field observations and experimental studies, geologists in the early 1900s began to recognize that the common silicate minerals form at specific temperature ranges from a cooling magma. This sequence of crystallization is known as Bowen’s reaction series, named after geologist Norman L. Bowen. Higher and intermediate temperatures are associated with mafic and intermediate magmas, while lower temperatures are associated with felsic (silica-rich) magmas. At higher temperatures, the sequence has two branches. The continuous branch describes the evolution of plagioclase feldspars from calcium-rich to more sodiumrich. The discontinuous branch describes the sequence of formation of different minerals as temperatures decrease. Although geologists now recognize some exceptions, this concept is still accepted as the general model of silicate mineral formation from cooling magmas.

melting of rocks at the source, interaction with melted or unmelted (restite) minerals, interaction with or assimilation of wall rocks, mixing of magmas, separation of magmas into immiscible melts, loss of volatile phases (degassing), fractional crystallization of minerals, and accumulation of early-formed minerals. As a result of these factors, the overall composition of the magma, and the minerals that crystallize from it, changes over time. Common silicate mineral formation takes place from the magma at progressively cooler temperatures in a specific sequence. This sequence is schematically described by Bowen’s reaction series (figure 7). This reaction series illustrates the differences between minerals that typically crystallize from magmas at high temperatures (e.g., olivine, pyroxenes, amphiboles, micas, and calcium-rich feldspar) and those that typically crystallize at lower temperatures (quartz, micas, and potassium-rich feldspar). If early-formed minerals are separated from a magma, the removal of those components changes the composition of the remaining magma, generally leading to more silica-rich compositions (figure 8). Bowen’s reaction series can also be considered from the bottom up in that the lower temperature minerals at the bottom of the diagram are also the fi rst to break down during partial melting. The presence of silicarich minerals like quartz, micas, and potassium-rich feldspar at the bottom of the diagram demonstrates that the earlyformed magmas during partial melting tend to be silica-rich. Removal of such partial melts can produce rhyolitic magmas. Magmatic rock environments are also important sources for ore deposits – economic and minable concentrations of gold, silver, copper, nickel, platinum, chromium, vanadium, cobalt, and other elements that are not found in large amounts in most silicate minerals. Hydrothermal and pegmatitic deposits of

gems, although related to magmatic activity, will be discussed separately in future editions of this column because of their importance for certain gem deposits.

Gem Mineral Formation from Magmas

Magmatic gems form either by crystallization of the magma at depth or at the earth’s surface, and occasionally in rock cavities from a gas phase (a vapor) released during magma cooling. Magma eruptions can also bring up mineral crystals or fragments of deeply formed crystals or rocks (including some gem minerals) derived from other sources – geologists refer to them as xenocrysts or xenoliths.

When exposed at the surface, igneous rocks often weather and decompose to form smaller particles. Resistant minerals (such as diamond or corundum) can remain in the sedimentary environment and become concentrated in secondary alluvial deposits by the movement of water. Such deposits are sources for several important gem minerals. Over time, long-distance water transport of gem crystals also can winnow out fractured crystals: Those that survive the journey can be waterworn but of higher quality. Although gem mineral formation from magmas is the subject of this column, some of these same minerals can also form by other geological processes such as metamorphism.

Diamond . Most gem diamonds formed between 1.0 and 3.5 billion years ago and at depths between 150 and 250 km in the lower crust and upper mantle (and in some cases in the lower mantle as deep as 800 km; see Smith et al., 2017). It is

now understood that their formation took place from carboncontaining fl uids, based on studies of tiny inclusions of minerals and fl uids found within diamonds, although the details of this growth process are still the subject of geological study. Once formed, the diamonds were carried to the earth’s surface by eruptions of kimberlitic or lamproitic magmas (fi gure 9). Deeply formed diamonds were slowly transported upward by convection in the mantle to a depth where they could be caught up in erupting igneous magmas. Diamond formation was described in more detail by Shirey and Shigley (2013) and by Smit and Shirey (2018, 2019). At the surface, diamonds are recovered by mining of primary kimberlite ore and from secondary alluvial deposits. Harris and Staebler (2017) and Smit et al. (2022) provided recent reviews of diamond geology, genesis, and occurrence.

Figure 8. With the cooling and solidifi cation of magmas, mineral formation proceeds in a series of steps illustrated by the discontinuous branch of Bowen’s reaction series in figure 7. These simplifi ed diagrams illustrate stages of fractional crystallization of common minerals from a silicate magma. If the starting

magma is ultramafi c or basaltic in composition (A), during cooling it changes in chemical composition as different minerals form in sequence from the melt. In these diagrams, olivine crystallizes fi rst (stage 1), followed by olivine and pyroxene (stage 2), pyroxene and plagioclase feldspar (stage 3), and fi nally plagioclase feldspar (stage 4). These crystals are separated from the melt as layers at the bottom of the magma chamber, and the remaining magma (B) gradually becomes more silica-rich (more viscous). The remaining magma becomes depleted in elements that were incorporated in the earlier-formed minerals, and it is enriched in elements that were not easily accommodated in these minerals. Modifi ed from Johnson et al. (2017).

Figure 9. Diamond crystals (1.24–22.32 ct) and samples of diamond-bearing kimberlite. Photo by Orasa Weldon. The loose crystals were donated to GIA by De Beers as part of the Sir Ernest Oppenheimer Student Collection.

Olivine (Peridot). Olivine is a magnesium-iron silicate mineral with the formula (Mg,Fe)2SiO4 and a crystal structure consisting of isolated silicate tetrahedra joined by metal cations. It is one of the first minerals to crystallize from silicate magmas, and it occurs in mafic (low SiO2, high MgO and FeO) and ultramafic (very low SiO2 at <45 wt.% and high MgO and FeO) igneous rocks that are low in silica such as gabbro and basalt. Magnesium-rich olivines (forsterite) are more common than iron-rich olivines (fayalites) and constitute most gem peridot. Olivines are primary components of the earth’s upper mantle (see again figure 8). Much of the peridot on the gem market comes from alkali basalt eruptions that originated in the mantle and carried up large chunks of mantle rocks (including olivine and pyroxene crystals) as xenoliths (Koivula, 1981). These constitute the major deposits in the U.S. state of Arizona (figure 10) and Jilin, China.

Other peridot deposits form as a result of hydrothermal fluid circulation through very magnesium- and iron-rich mantle rocks called peridotites, which were brought up to the earth’s surface during continental collisional events. These are represented by the deposits in Myanmar, Pakistan, and the classical historical source of gem peridot on Zabargad (Saint John’s) Island in the Red Sea of Egypt (figure 11). However the olivine reaches the surface, it quickly weathers and decomposes to form clays.

Rare iron-nickel meteorites that contain crystals of olivine are known as pallasites (Sinkankas et al., 1992; Shen et al., 2011). Several recent publications have discussed olivine formation in magmatic igneous rocks as well as gem peridot (Revheim, 2015; Wilson, 2020; Wallace et al., 2021; Seneewong-Na-Ayutthaya et al., 2021).

Quartz. Quartz (SiO2) and its color varieties (mainly amethyst, citrine, rose quartz, and smoky quartz) have been gem materials since ancient times as crystals, crystal fragments, and cryptocrystalline aggregates (such as chalcedony and agate). It is a principal constituent of granites and other silica-rich igneous rocks where it has crystallized from molten magmas. Amethyst-

filled cavities and geodes in basaltic lava flows are an important source of gem crystals. Quartz is resistant to weathering and is commonly found as fragments, sometimes waterworn, in alluvial sediments and soils.

Feldspar. Feldspars are an important group of potassiumsodium (alkali feldspars: [K,Na]AlSi3O8) or sodium-calcium minerals (plagioclase feldspars: NaAlSi3O8–CaAl2Si2O8) whose structures are based on a three-dimensional network of silica or alumina tetrahedra. They exhibit extensive chemical solid solutions within the group. Feldspars crystallize from a variety of magma compositions, beginning with more calciumrich phases to more sodium-rich phases with decreasing magma temperatures (figure 8). Potassium-rich feldspars are among the last minerals to form from a magma. Feldspars are important constituents of both intrusive (granites or diorites) and extrusive (rhyolites or andesites) igneous rocks. As a group, they compose about 60% of the earth’s crust. Feldspars weather to form clay minerals and are not usually found in alluvial deposits, as they are not resistant enough. They are commonly opaque but sometimes occur as transparent crystals suitable for faceting (orthoclase, microcline, and oligoclase; see figure 12) or as crystals that exhibit optical phenomena such as aventurescence (sunstone, or rainbow lattice sunstone; Johnston et al., 1991; Pay et al., 2013; Jin et al., 2022), adularescence (moonstone), or iridescence/labradorescence (labradorite) that are cut as faceted stones or cabochons.

Garnet. Garnets are an important group of approximately 20 minerals represented by several valuable gemstones such as demantoid, hessonite, rhodolite, and tsavorite. They exhibit a wide variation in chemical composition –the common species are often referred to as “pyralspite” garnets [(Mg,Fe,Mn)3Al2(SiO4)3] and “ugrandite” garnets [Ca3(Cr,Al,Fe)2(SiO4)3]. Some garnets can display a color change under different lighting conditions, while others exhibit optical phenomena such as asterism because of symmetrically

Figure 10. Green grains of peridot filling gas cavities in basalt from the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation in Arizona.

Photo by Robert Weldon.

Figure 11. A 69.30 g (346.5 ct) peridot crystal from Zabargad (Saint John’s) Island in the Red Sea.

Photo by Robert Weldon.

Figure 12. Labradorite feldspar crystals in pieces of weathered basalt from the Ponderosa mine in Harney County, Oregon. Photo by Adriana Gudino.

oriented acicular inclusions. Some garnet species are common minerals, while others occur less frequently. Like olivine, the crystal structure of garnet consists of isolated silica tetrahedra linked by a variety of metal cations in several structural sites. They occur widely in metamorphic rocks, and to a lesser extent as an accessory phase in igneous rocks such as granites, granitic pegmatites, gabbros, and basalts. Pyrope is an important indicator mineral used in the search for diamondbearing kimberlites (figure 13). The mineral also forms in the crust or upper mantle and is brought up to the surface by ascending magmas or by geologic uplift of deep rocks. While most gem-quality garnet on the market would be considered metamorphic or hydrothermal in origin, on occasion they are found in cavities of erupted igneous rocks like rhyolites, where they were formed by gases released by the cooling magmas (figure 14). Garnets are resistant to abrasion and chemical weathering, so they can remain in sediments and become concentrated in alluvial deposits. A review of garnets and their geological occurrences was provided by Gilg et al. (2008).

Spinel. The magnesium-aluminum oxide spinel (MgAl2O4) is one species in a group of minerals referred to by the same name that have a similar crystal structure but varied chemical composition. Depending on the minor elements present, it occurs in a variety of colors, with the red variety long being recognized as a gemstone that in earlier times was often referred to as “carbuncle” or “Balas ruby” (“Badakhshan ruby” from Tajikistan) in confusion with ruby. Spinel is a common mineral in metamorphic rocks, but it can also form as an accessory mineral in mafic igneous rocks that are poor in silica and alkali elements. The conditions of formation of a silica-free oxide mineral such as spinel from a silica-containing mafic igneous magma are still a matter of debate among geologists. Spinel is an important constituent of peridotite in the upper mantle and in kimberlites. Because of its hardness, lack of cleavage, high specific gravity, and resistance to weathering, spinel is found concentrated in secondary alluvial sediment deposits.

Corundum. Ruby and the many colors of sapphire of the mineral corundum (Al2O3) are among the most important and valuable gemstones because of their occurrence as colored transparent crystals suitable for faceting or polishing. Corundum is colorless when pure, but the potential presence of minor elements (namely chromium, titanium, and iron) can act as coloring agents (Dubinsky et al., 2020). The structure consists of a hexagonal close-packed arrangement of oxygen atoms with aluminum and/ or other elements occurring in structural sites. The gem material may display asterism and color-change behaviors. Corundum is found in metamorphic rocks as well as low-silica syenites, pegmatites, and other less common igneous rocks (Simonet et al., 2008; Palke et al., 2019a,b). The mineral also occurs as xenocrysts in igneous alkali basalts; however, rapid weathering of basalt at the earth’s surface means that most ruby and sapphire of igneous origin are encountered as loose crystals or fragments in alluvial sediments (figure 15). As with spinel, the conditions of formation of a silica-free oxide mineral such as corundum from a silica-containing mafic igneous magma remain a matter of debate among geologists (Giuliani and Groat, 2019). Nonetheless, sapphire and ruby from the alkali basalt–related deposits have glassy silicate melt inclusions that represent some primordial magma from when the gem corundum was growing. This indicates that although the sapphire and ruby were xenocrysts in the alkali basalts that carried them to the surface, they must have a magmatic origin from deep within the earth. Because of its toughness, hardness, and resistance to weathering, and because the igneous host rocks decompose at the earth’s surface, corundum is often found as a detrital mineral in sediments and secondary alluvial deposits.

Zircon. Zirconium is an uncommon element in the earth’s crust, so zircon (ZrSiO4) only occurs as small accessory crystals or grains in a wide variety of rocks. Larger transparent crystals are less common, so gem zircon suitable for faceting is rare. The structure is composed of isolated silica tetrahedra bonded together by zirconium atoms. The mineral is normally reddish

Figure 13. Pyrope garnet grains concentrated from an exposed and weathered portion of the Vargem 1 kimberlite seen on the banks of the Santo Inácio River near Coromandel in Minas Gerais, Brazil. These bright red grains are an important indicator mineral in exploring alluvial sediments for diamondbearing kimberlites. Photo by Robert Weldon.

Figure 14. An almandine garnet in rhyolite from Garnet Hill in White Pine County, Nevada. Photo by Robert Weldon.

Figure 15. A rough multicolored sapphire crystal weighing more than 30 ct from the Changle region of China. Photo by Robert Weldon.

to yellowish brown, but other colors such as blue and green also occur as a result of trace elements in the crystal structure, radiation exposure, or natural or artificial heating. The mineral’s hardness and chemical resistance to weathering mean that it is frequently preserved in sediments and sedimentary rocks. Most of the gem-quality zircon on the market is related to alkali basalt deposits where the zircon are found as xenocrysts. This is similar to the deposits of magmatic gem corundum, and both are often found in the same deposit.

Because they often contain small amounts of radioactive uranium or thorium, zircon crystals provide an important way to date the geologic age of their host minerals or sediments, including some of the oldest minerals dated so far (4.4 billion years for zircon from one locality in Australia). The presence of radioactive minerals causes damage to the crystal structure, so these zircon are described as metamict with an opaque appearance and lower hardness, refractive index, and specific gravity.

Topaz. Topaz, with the formula Al2SiO4(F,OH)2, is an aluminosilicate mineral that contains fluorine and/or hydroxyl (OH) ions. The requirement for fluorine limits the range of geological environments for topaz formation. This mineral occurs in open veins or voids forming at low to moderate temperatures in later-stage, silica-rich igneous rocks such as granites, pegmatites, and rhyolites in which a fluorine fluid or vapor appears to have been present (such as the historical topaz occurrence at Schneckenstein, Germany; Zeug et al., 2022).

Certain rare granites are so enriched in fluorine that topaz is an essential mineral constituent of the rock. Topaz crystals that grow from late-stage magmatic vapors are also found in cavities in rhyolites (figure 16). Although it is not as hard as other gem minerals and has a tendency to cleave perpendicular to the long axis of the crystal, topaz is resistant enough to be preserved as waterworn crystals or fragments in alluvial sediments. Often colorless, the mineral can also be blue, yellow, brown, or reddish orange. The crystals are usually transparent and sometimes large. Staebler et al. (2011) reviewed the geological occurrence of this gem mineral.

Inclusions in Magmatic Gems

Gems that crystallize from cooling magmas can exhibit microfeatures visible with a gemological microscope. In addition to solid inclusions (such as oriented needles in a magmatic ruby or sapphire), probably the most distinctive micro-feature is a rounded or irregular melt inclusion, which represents a solidified bubble of the silicate magmatic melt present when the host gemstone was crystallizing. Upon cooling, the melt was quenched to a glass, which may contain a gas bubble and perhaps tiny crystals that formed from the glass. Figure 17 presents a compilation of melt inclusions that offer proof of a magmatic geological origin.

Conclusions

of their igneous origin. A: A rounded glassy melt inclusion in a Cambodian ruby; fi eld of view 1.26 mm. B: A glassy melt inclusion with gas bubbles in a peridot from Papakōlea Beach on the island of Hawaii; fi eld of view 1.30 mm. C: A glassy melt inclusion containing a gas bubble along with oriented inclusion needles in a sapphire from Queensland, Australia; fi eld of view 0.71 mm. D: A gas bubble inclusion in a labradorite feldspar from Oregon; fi eld of view 3.59 mm. During the eruption of the host basaltic magma, the release of confi ning pressure on the feldspar xenocryst allowed the gas bubble to expand to fi ll a larger volume of space along a fracture. Photomicrographs by Aaron Palke (A and C) and Nathan Renfro (B and D).

From partial melting deep within the earth to post-emplacement processes in volcanic eruptions, many of the world’s fi nest gemstones were derived from magmatic activity. The study of these gemstones can provide geological insights into the generation of magmas within the earth, their transport to the earth’s surface, and modes of volcanic processes after eruption. Magmatic gemstones offer many clues to the earth’s evolution and the geological processes that shaped our world. The next instalment of Colored Stones Unearthed will focus on gemstones formed through metamorphic processes.

References: https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/winter-2022-colored-stones-unearthed

Figure 16. A topaz crystal on rhyolite matrix from the Thomas Range, Juab County, Utah. Photo by Robert Weldon.

Figure 17. Inclusions observed in magmatic gems that offer evidence

Inhorgenta Munich opened for four days at the end of February and provided a refreshing change from the conflicts plaguing the Swiss industry exhibitors in recent years. Martin Foster, international watch correspondent for SAJN and reviewer for the Horological Journal (BHI – UK), reflects on the 2023 edition following a remarkable increase in attendance.

The rise of Inhorgenta

INHORGENTA MUNICH GIVES US THE FORMAT and facilities emulating the engaging elements of the best days of Baselworld and thus presents an attractive prospect for watch exhibitors in coming years.

Baselworld has declared itself finished – but Inhorgenta is now wide open and inviting the annual bookings.

Inhorgenta was very strong with its watch industry presentations until about a decade ago, when Baselworld was successfully promoting its ascendancy. However, much has changed with the COVID-19 pandemic, the shutdown of Baselworld, the political hostilities getting a workout in Europe and China/Hong Kong – as well as outright war for the past year

following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.

Thus Inhorgenta Munich is a positively ideal venue for the very wide variety of middle range and intermediate watch brands which otherwise get lost in the melee of the Geneva events. The big end of town, featuring Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Vacheron Constantin and LVMH, is unlikely to appear in Munich, as these brands are clearly committed to their higher profile at Geneva Watches and Wonders.

So the Munich trade fair is understandably growing again, especially among mid-luxury brands, including SEIKO, Citizen, Festina, Garmin, Junghans, Liu Jo, Mondaine Watch, Montres Edox, Nordgreen, Casio and Staudt Chronometrie.

(Above): A new Bulova Marine Star six-hand chronograph with 100 m water-resistance featuring a running seconds sub-dial, with a central chronograph seconds hand and 60-minute and 1/20-second chronograph sub-dials with an internal rotating 60-minute timing case ring.

Six spacious exhibition halls were dedicated to watches, jewellery and gemstones, glamorous craftsmanship and innovative designs, together with a supporting programme of

Inhorgenta Munich continues

design to sustainable supply chains.

The Watch Boutique in Hall A1 hosted presentations by MeisterSinger, MühleGlashütte, Tutima Glashütte, Michel Herbelin, Alexander Shorokhoff and Raymond Weil. The Salon Suisse enjoys a growing demand, with brands Al-Time, Aerowatch, Continental and Elka Watch participating for the first time.

Regarding the performance of the fair, Stefan Rummel, CEO of Messe Munchen, revealed that there were approximately 24 000 trade visitors, a 51% increase over 2022.

Commenting on a foreign visitor share of 40%, he said: “Inhorgenta Munich is back in a spectacular way, more international than ever and strikingly confirmed as a serious platform for the watch, jewellery and gemstone industry in Europe.

“With around 800 exhibitors from all over the world, including many brands of great charisma, the foundation’s been laid for further international growth for brands and retailers in 2024, when Inhorgenta Munich celebrates its 50th anniversary.”

Inhorgenta Munich conducts an annual design award and the final winners are announced and featured at a gala evening during the fair.

“The Inhorgenta Award is our way of providing a great stage for exceptional

diversity from counterfeit watches and artificial intelligence in jewellery

(Above): Citizen Promaster Eco-Drive – Cal E660, radiocontrolled, perpetual calendar, alarm, daylight-saving function, chronograph, day and date, 12/24-hour time, world time, power reserved indication and 200 m water-resistance.

(Left): Bering 11739-772 Titanium watch 39 mm, a statement and a companion for everyday wear. It features a titanium 39 mm case and 50 m water-resistance.

(Left): Citizen Series 8 Cal 9051 (model 831), providing enhanced magnetic resistance with a significantly thinner movement, featuring a power reserve of 50 hours and accuracy of -5/+10 seconds per day.

(Right): The award for the Inhorgenta Watch Design of the Year went to the Junghans watch factory. It is a testament to elegance and a classic design.

Inhorgenta Munich is a positively ideal venue for the very wide variety of middle range and intermediate watch brands which otherwise get lost in the melee of the Geneva events.

creations from the jewellery, watch and gemstone industries – from a piece of jewellery by a young newcomer and a special watch by an established brand to a newly conceived retail concept,” explains Rummel. “We’re particularly pleased with the strong international participation: 80 of 137 submissions came from 37 foreign countries.”

The category “Watch Design” demanded an innovative concept and independent design with a high recognition value and the awardwinner for 2023 was Uhrenfabrik Junghans.

Inhorgenta Munich is a generous supporter of technical education and provides exhibition space and financial assistance to the Goldschmiedeschule mit Uhrmacherschule in Pforzheim. This traditional goldsmithing and watchmaking school was established

in 1767 and is a vocational institution with headquarters and classrooms at St George's Way in Pforzheim combining schools for goldsmiths and watchmakers.

Augsburg, a very old area of German clock, watch and jewellery manufacture, is also a big supplier of tools and equipment for the industry. Today Inhorgenta is the only broad-spectrum EU trade fair which includes a tools and equipment category. The range of high-quality tools, equipment and machines available for the industry from Boley, Augusta, Beco, Flume, Horbach and other major German houses can

only be fully appreciated by taking the time to visit them all at the Inhorgenta Munich fair. All reported strong footfall and good sales.

Inhorgenta is a dedicated trade fair for proprietors, watchmakers and jewellers. Registration is easy and the fair provides a wide crosssection of machines, tools, watches, clocks, jewellery and makers’ forums which is highly informative and highly relevant to this industry. Most exhibitors speak English.

Next year Inhorgenta Europe will open its glittering doors at the grounds of the New Munich Trade Fair Centre from 16-19 February.

Baselworld has declared itself finished – but Inhorgenta is now wide open and inviting the annual bookings.

(Left): Seiko Prospex SNE518 with Cal V157 solar movement that operates for approximately 10 months when fully charged with ±15 seconds per month accuracy, a 37 mm dial with a date display and quick-start function, hardlex crystal and 200 m waterresistance.

(Above): The winner of the Inhorgenta Award 2023 in the category Retailers’ Choice Award – Best Watch with the most votes was this stainless steel watch with rose gold IP finish from Casio Europe.

Gemfields discloses latest “G-Factor” figures

The “G-Factor for Natural Resources” was unveiled in July 2021 by Gemfields as a way of promoting transparency on the level of natural resource wealth shared with host country governments.

THE “G” IN “G-FACTOR” STANDS FOR government, governance and good practice – all three of which lie at the heart of this initiative. The intention is to quantify the percentage of revenues, from the mining, oil, gas, timber and fishing industries, that is paid back to the countries of origin in primary and direct taxes and dividends (where the host government is a shareholder), shining a positive light on those companies making a stellar contribution.

Gemfields released the “G-Factor” figures up to December 2022 as a way of encouraging governance bodies, mining organisations, industry observers and host governments to adopt the “G-Factor for Natural Resources”, the idea being that if enough do so, transparency will be greatly improved across the sector. The Kagem emerald mine in Zambia

and Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique are the group’s two mining subsidiaries for which calculations have been included.

Gemfields’ CEO Sean Gilbertson explains the thinking behind the idea: “Given the evolution of resource nationalism, on the one hand, and increasing strategic competition by companies and states for access to resources, on the other, it seems to us that a practical measure allowing more direct comparison of the sharing of natural resource wealth would assist greatly in identifying responsible custodians of host

nations’ resources. We hope the ‘G-Factor for Natural Resources’ will be voluntarily adopted by other companies, insisted upon by host governments and incorporated into projects such as EITI.”

The calculation is incredibly straightforward – with a natural resource company’s mineral royalties, corporation tax and dividends paid to a host government divided by its total revenues to arrive at its “G-Factor” rating. For 2022, MRM had a “G-Factor” of 27% and Kagem had one of 17%. This formula allows companies to set targets and do their best

(Left): Gemfields responsibly sourced rough Zambian emerald.

to contribute positively to the countries from which their natural resources originated.

G-Factor for Natural Resources computa -

tions for Gemfields’ two key mining subsidiaries (in Zambia and Mozambique) are set out below:

purposes of A, B and C. No measure of this type is perfect and it is recognised that:

a. The G-Factor for Natural Resources is a “rule-of-thumb” – while it has broad application and is a practical indicator, it is not suited to every situation.

b. There are numerous additional and indirect taxes which are not included in the G-Factor for Natural Resources and further increase the contribution made to host nations by natural resource companies. Such taxes include area/surface charges, social security contributions, taxation on the salaries of employees, import and export duties, VAT, etc.

c. The variety and variations in natural resource deposits, types and occurrences lessen the ability to make direct comparisons between companies.

Gemfields is a world-leading miner and marketer of responsibly sourced coloured gemstones. It is the operator and 75% owner of both the Kagem emerald mine in Zambia (believed to be the world’s single largest producing emerald mine) and the Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique (one of the most significant recently discovered ruby deposits in the world).

The ‘G-Factor for Natural Resources’

The ‘G-Factor for Natural Resources’

The G-Factor for Natural Resources would typically be calculated by each stand-alone company engaged primarily in the extraction and sale of natural resources, whether in the mining, oil, gas, timber or fishing sectors. Accordingly, multi-national natural resource companies would publish the G-Factor for Natural Resources for each operating subsidiary engaged primarily in the extraction and sale of natural resources.

• B = the total corporation tax (tax on profit) paid reporting company to the host country government during the period.

• C = the dividends paid by the reporting company to the host country government during the period (where the host country government is a shareholder in the reporting company).

In addition, Gemfields holds controlling interests in various other gemstone mining and prospecting licences in Zambia, Mozambique, Ethiopia and Madagascar. Gemfields’ outright ownership of Fabergé – an iconic and prestigious brand of exceptional heritage –enables Gemfields to optimise positioning, perception and consumer awareness of coloured gemstones, advancing the wider group’s “mine and market” vision.

• D = the total revenues of the reporting company during the period

The G-Factor for Natural Resources is expressed as a percentage and is calculated as:

Ap + Bp + Cp divided by Dp, where:

The G-Factor for Natural Resources would typically be calculated by each standalone company engaged primarily in the extraction and sale of natural resources, whether in the mining, oil, gas, timber or fishing sectors. Accordingly, multi-national natural resource companies would publish the G-Factor for Natural Resources for each operating subsidiary engaged primarily in the extraction and sale of natural resources

The G-Factor for Natural Resources would typically be calculated by each standalone company engaged primarily in the extraction and sale of natural resources, whether in the mining, oil, gas, timber or fishing sectors. Accordingly, multi-national natural resource companies would publish the G-Factor for Natural Resources for each operating subsidiary engaged primarily in the extraction and sale of natural resources

• A = the total mineral royalty (tax on revenue) paid by the reporting company to the host country government during the period

• p = the relevant period, typically calculated for each of (i) the prior year, (ii) the preceding five years and (iii) the preceding 10 years.

• The sums actually paid during the period (rather than the sums accrued or falling due during the period) are used for the

Gemfields has developed a proprietary grading system and a pioneering auction and trading platform to provide a consistent supply of coloured gemstones to downstream markets, a key component of Gemfields’ business model and has played an important role in the growth of the global coloured gemstone sector.

– Information courtesy of gemfields.com

The intention is to quantify the percentage of revenues, from the mining, oil, gas, timber and fishing industries, that is paid back to the countries of origin in primary and direct taxes and dividends (where the host government is a shareholder), shining a positive light on those companies making a stellar contribution.

DID YOU KNOW?

Interesting facts

 While James Bond is synonymous with Omega today, this has not always been the case. James Bond is most commonly associated with two watch brands: Rolex and Omega. However, the fact of the matter is that Bond has also worn a total of six different watch brands throughout the movies.

 The term “watch” is derived from the old English word “waecce“, which means “to keep an eye on” and “be awake”.

The Oxford English Dictionary records the word “watch” in association with a timepiece from at least as early as 1542.

 Luminous watches trap light, thanks to their phosphorescent coating and gradually leak it back out throughout the night.

 Also known as a magnifying lens, the Cyclops eye is incorporated into the watch crystal and lies above the date window to make viewing the date easier. The concept was conceived of in the early 1950s and is often used today to magnify other information on a watch.

 The hands on watch models in displays and shop windows are generally positioned at 10:10. The aim is to create an association with the raised corners of a smile, which is supposed to trigger a positive feeling in the observer of that watch. Another theory for the watch hands' special arrangement is that it provides an unobstructed view of brand logos, lettering and other details on the dial thus showcasing the watch at its best.

 In 1995, Breitling included a built-in emergency mechanism in its Emergency Mission collection. This incredible piece of technology sends out an SOS signal to the emergency services and acts like a beacon for those services to detect the signal's source. An incident occurred in 2003 when two stranded helicopter pilots activated their Emergency Mission while lost in Antarctica and were saved.

DID YOU KNOW?

 During the First World War, soldiers started to wear wristwatches. A lot of men also wore wristwatches on the inside of their wrists, which enabled them to see the time while holding a rifle.

Obelisks were built as early as 3500 BCE. Their moving shadows formed a kind of sundial, enabling people to partition the day into morning and afternoon.

 In the 15th century, pocket watches were used to distinguish between the craftsmen and members of the upper class, as only the wealthy could use them. An early prototype of the pocket watch was worn in this era around the neck, rather than on a pocket watch chain, like an Albert T Bar chain.

 The first Casio G-shock watch was tested by simply throwing it out the window –a 10 m drop.

 In 1926, Rolex created the world’s first waterproof wristwatch with the launch of the Rolex Oyster. Prior to this, wristwatches, which were relatively new to the market, were rather sensitive to both water and dust. Rolex’s Oyster was hermetically sealed with screw-down components and gaskets. To prove that the watch was indeed waterproof, Rolex put the watch around the neck of Mercedes Gleitze, who became the first British woman to swim the English Channel. Rolex celebrated the feat by buying a first-page ad in the Daily Mail.

 Jean-Claude Biver, the former CEO of Hublot, makes around five tons of premium cheese on his estate in the Swiss Alps. This is only produced for a few weeks in the summer and is distributed to friends, family and restaurants.

Image courtesy National Library of New Zealand

Gem & Jewel. A cut above the rest

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The Gem & Jewel product provides a tailormade sustainable solution for jewellery related businesses that navigate the changing jewellery industry, market conditions and challenges exacerbated by crime and global economic influences.

Working with the jewellery industry requires a detailed understanding of its unique requirements and with years of experience in developing niche insurance products, Bryte is one of South Africa’s leaders in providing cover for retail, wholesale and manufacturing jewellers, gem cutters and setters, watch importers, coin dealers, tender houses and dealers, goldsmiths, diamond and metal processors and refiners. Just as we know that one size does not fit all, we also appreciate that standard commercial cover is the wrong fit for these customers.

Contact us so we can show you what type of specialist cover the jewellery industry has enjoyed for over 22 years.

Bryte’s Jewellery and Precious Assets division is excited to offer you our Gem & Jewel cover, which is endorsed by the Jewellery Council.

Contact natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist.

ADELE’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 595 3868/083 227 6550

E-mail: adele@amj.co.za

ADJANI SCHOEMAN T/A ADJANI DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 083 460 7334

E-mail: info@adjani.co.za

Website: www.adjani.co.za

AFRICAN TRADE BEADS JEWELLERY COLLECTION

Tel no: 082 905 1736 / 011 726 7643

E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com

Website: https://www.atbjc.com/about-us/

AFROGEM

Tel no: 021 424 0848

E-mail: info@afrogem.co.za

AKAPO JEWELS

Tel no: 011 038 3130

E-mail: wumba@akapo.co.za; labi@akapo.co.za

Website: www.akapojewels.co.za

ALBO VAN DYK MANUFACTURING

Tel no: 044 873 0567

E-mail: albo@telkomsa.net

Website: http://www.albovandyk.com/

ALL BLING CREATIONS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 079 744 0971

E-mail: allblingcreations00@gmail.com; mmeshi.nkadimeng@gmail.com

ALLOY JEWELLERY GALLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 073 92 45254

E-mail: edna@alloygallery.co.za

Website: www.alloygallery.co.za

ALTIN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 998 0141

E-mail: info@altin.co.za

Website: www.altin.co.za

AMBER & FORGE (PTY) LTD T/A SCHERMANS

Tel: 072 928 0385

E-mail: info@schermans.co.za

AMBIGO JEWELLERS

Tel: 062 282 6924

E-mail: ntobekobasil@gmail.com

ANACZYNSKI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 934 5682

E-mail: anaczynski@gmail.com

Website: www.anaczynski.co.za

ANASTASIA JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 507 5561

E-mail: bazil.heeralall@gmail.com

Website: www.anastasiajewellers.co.za

ANDREAS SALVER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 706 6828

E-mail: andreas@andreassalver.com

Website: www.andreassalver.com

ANNA ROSHOLT JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 061 080 6481

Email: anna@annarosholt.com

ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID

Tel no: 082 956 7747

E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za

ANTONICORNELLIS JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE

Tel no: 074 758 1014

E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com

ASHOK JEWELLERS DESIGNERS & MANUFACTURERS

Tel: 031 566 5046

E-mail: info@ashokjewellers.co.za; 5665046@gmail.com

ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 706 3629

E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net

AU TRADERS AND REFINERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 334 7607/8

E-mail: barend@autraders.co.za; jacqui@autraders.co.za

Website: www.autraders.co.za

AUGENTA JEWELLERS

Tel: 021 883 8288

E-mail: dylan@augenta.com

AURUM DESIGN

Tel no: 021 423 6590

E-mail: aurum@worldonline.co.za; adela@aurumdesign.co.za

Website: www.aurumdesign.co.za

AURUM MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel: 083 475 7891

E-mail: info@aurummanufacturing.co.za; oliver@aurummanufacturing.co.za; karina@aurummanufacturing.co.za

AUTHOR BY KATHLYN ALLAN

Tel no: 084 247 0358

E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERSRIVERSIDE LIFESTYLE CENTRE

Tel: 013 757 0827

E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com

Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERSVALLEY HYPER

Tel: 013 757 0827

E-mail: Ron@aztecjewellers.com

Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

BEADZ BY FLEX

Tel no: 083 967 3264

E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za

Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za

BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 885 8303

E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za

Website: www.beaudell.co.za

BEAUTIFUL SELECTION (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 072 658 0166

E-mail: admin@beautifulselection.co.za

BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 072 056 2156

E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com

Website: www.ben-codesigns.com

BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE

Tel no: 032 586 0889

E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za

Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/

BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 450 4320

E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery.international

Website: https://www.bijoujewellery.international/

BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 560 5064

E-mail: info@bokook.co.za

BRAND ATHENA A

Tel: 072 272 3089

E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za

BRETTLAND POULSEN DESIGNER GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 031 562 8009

E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com

Website: www.brettlands.co.za

BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO

Tel no: 011 616 5328

E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com

BRONSKI JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 852 7891

E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com

BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE – WORKSHOP

Tel no: 011 438 7920

E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com

Website: www.brownsjewellers.com

BULLION STAR (PTY) LTD

Tel: 011 202 5021

E-mail: bullionstr@gmail.com

CADTOCRAFT (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 781 0303

E-mail: johanwessels12@gmail.com

CAPE DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 421 5364

E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za

Website: www.capediamonds.co.za

CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 021 460 3632

E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za

Website: www.cput.ac.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 551 2066

E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN

Tel no: 031 303 5402

E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 334 6263

E-mail: tom@cpmjhb.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – PORT ELIZABETH

Tel no: 041 365 1890

E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC

Tel no: 041 992 4421

E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za

CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM

Tel no: 051 507 4044

E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za

Website: www.cut.ac.za

CHARL DE BEER

Tel no: 012 440 7693

E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com

CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 083 557 3252

E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com

CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA

Tel no: 021 975 5097

E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za

CHATEAU D’OR CC

Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723

E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za

Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com

CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 599 5919

E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com

CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 031 563 3987

E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com

D FABRIK (PTY) LTD

Tel: 011 327 7926

E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com

DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 334 8841

E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com

DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 023 342 7808

E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za

DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC

Tel no: 021 880 1026

E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za

DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612

E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za

DC JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 691 3692

E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za

DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 3182

E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net

Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com

DEON SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel: 083 454 2161

E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST

Tel no: 043 726 2291

E-mail: info@designergold.co.za

Website: www.designergold-el.co.za

DIA-KIM DIAMONDS

T/A CHRISTOPHER REID

Tel no: 021 418 4484

E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za

Website: www.christopherreid.co.za

DIAMANTE ANTWERP

Tel: 072 830 5656

E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com

DIAMONDS4EVER

Tel no: 082 786 7677

E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za

Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za

DIDIDESIGN

Tel no: 011 784 0369

E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za

Website: www.dididesign.co.za

DLR JEWELLERS

Tel: 057 101 0359

E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za

DR ESME SPICER

Tel no: 073 239 9983

E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 031 373 6673/6

E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za

Website: www.dut.ac.za

ECO CHIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 553 0332

E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com

EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 072 636 0213

E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com

EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT

Tel no: 011 825 5822

E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za

Website: www.ejewellery.org.za

ELEMENTAL STUDIO

Tel no: 084 507 7777

E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com

Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za

EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 557 5190

E-mail: info@ember.co.za

Website: www.ember.co.za

ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES

Tel no: 031 824 9427

E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com

EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 083 578 7447

E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com

Website: www.eonhoon.com

ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 8120

E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net

ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 018 290 5722/3

E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com

Website: www.eternityenterprise.com

EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 3402

E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za

Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za

FACET JEWELLERY

Tel no: 073 397 8820

E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za

FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 671 5529

E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com

FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 787 6120

E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za

Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

FERROS JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 363 1881

E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com

Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES

Tel no: 021 511 6237

E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za

Website: www.finegold.co.za

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

Tel no: 031 564 9006

E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

FRANKLI WILD

Tel no: 011 483 2620

E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com

Website: www.frankliwild.com

G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC

Tel no: 021 555 1437

E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net

Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 011 852 2046

E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 753 3304

E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com

Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

GEM AFRIQUE

Tel no: 062 050 6479

E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY

Tel: 021 914 0838

E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY

Tel no: 082 337 6428

E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 084 360 6762

E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za

Website: www.goldandi.co.za

GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 021 931 1319

E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net

GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN

Tel no: 082 674 4410

E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za

GRYPHON MOSS

Tel: 082 049 2488

E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za

HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD

Tel: 072 587 0055

E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za

HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS

Tel no: 041 581 1942

E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za

Website: www.havilah.co.za

HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN

Tel no: 064 915 4282

E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com

HELEN MICHALETOS

Tel: 082 342 1577

E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com

HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE

Tel: 082 855 9088

E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 477 2729

E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

ICKINGER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 015 307 4448

E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za

Website: www.ickinger.co.za

iKE YKE

Tel: 083 225 0425

E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

IMPILO COLLECTION

Tel no: 010 0210441

E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za

Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERYDESIGNER & MANUFACTURER

Tel no: 073 271 3789

E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS

E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com

ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC

Tel no: 011 334 5919

E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za

Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

J HIND JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 306 1330

E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com

Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

JAGGATH JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 307 7790

E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 021 715 6178

E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com

Website: https://janinebinneman.com/

JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF

Tel no: 051 444 3449

E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za

Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za

JEWELLERY CONNECTION

Tel no: 011 728 6800

E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za

JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY

Tel no: 083 581 1513

E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com

Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za

JOHANNA VAN ZYL

Tel no: 082 778 5846

E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za

Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za

JOHN 3 JEWELLERY

Tel no: 076 822 8783

E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com

JOHN STEDMAN

T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN

Tel no: 031 572 2902

E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za

Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za

JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC

T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP

Tel no: 046 624 3748

E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net

JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 662 2861

E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za

Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/

JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 061 503 6561

E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com

Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/www.ginawhite.com

JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 067 397 6373

E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za

Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/

K2 DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 031 940 1274

E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za

Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC

Tel no: 083 659 2607

E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za

Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO

Tel no: 033 386 7872

E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC

Tel: 082 451 9429

E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 585 4842

E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN

Tel: 083 350 2737

E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

KHONJE DESIGNS

Tel: 012 460 1569

E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 531 9082

E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za

Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

KINKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 786 1549

E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za

Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE

Tel: 011 825 5822

E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC

Tel no: 011 880 1866

E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 001 6284

E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

LADY PECULIAR

Tel no: 021 886 8868

E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za

Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 883 4021

E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za

Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS

Tel no: 076 586 3820

E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC

Tel no: 021 887 1655

E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR

Tel no: 015 293 0214

E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 967 1700

E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

LOTTI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 386 1079

E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 011 882 3272

E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 651 8145

E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

M2 JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 012 460 6793

E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com

Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 453 7018

E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS

Tel no: 083 305 2798

E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za

Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA

Tel no: 072 882 2586

E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES

Tel no: 031 702 4422

E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 641 2724

E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com

Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

MARINE GOLD CC

Tel no: 021 424 0077

E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 041 368 4582/3

E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 083 271 6065

E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za

Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS

Tel: 0727167632

E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 0630

E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za

Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 510 0770

E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION

Tel no: 012 000 4440

E-mail: info@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN

E-mail: info@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL IMAGE

Tel no: 021 447 6600

E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com

Website: www.metalimage.co.za

MG IVORY

Tel no: 011 788 1018

E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS)

Tel no: 011 792 5292

E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 913 3944

E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com

Website: www.michljewellery.com

MINITZA

Tel: 082 77 29812

E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

MIRKO JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 886 8296

E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za

Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

MOON INVESTMENTS

Tel: 021 551 2066

E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES

Tel no: 072 299 7148

E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za

Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 041 379 1162

E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

N.N JEWELLERS

Tel: 082 081 8179

E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 012 329 9600

E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 384 7792

E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za

Website: www.nilu.co.za/

NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN

Tel: 079 891 7240

E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za

NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 012 332 5850

E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za

Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/

NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES

Tel no: 073 700 6225

E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com

Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za

NV DESIGN COMPANY

T/A BY NANETTE

Tel no: 021 883 3856

E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com

Website: www.bynanette.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 480 9860

E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com

Website: www.oroafrica.com

OSMOND’S

Tel no: 021 559 8277

E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

PAUL GALLIAS

Tel no: 073 194 2415

E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com

PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO

Tel no: 011 678 0595/6

E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za

Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/

PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 789 0312

E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za

PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 072 739 6800

E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com

Website: www.phatsimajd.com

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 423 2771

E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za

Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 549 4966

E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za

Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 396 6178

E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za

Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 031 301 3963

E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za

Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 011 702 1462

E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com

Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

POPULAR DIAMOND

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC

Tel no: 011 484 7044

E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 056 212 1229

E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

PRECISION SETTERS

Tel no: 011 484 7803/4

E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS

Tel no: 083 651 9042

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com

Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

PREVIDA & CO

Tel no: 011 701 5074

E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 422 1090

E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com

Website: www.prinsandprins.com

QUICKSET JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 468 9236

E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net

Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS

T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel: 011 404 5010

E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED

Tel no: 011 418 9000

E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za

Website: www.randrefinery.com

RARE EARTH CREATIONS

Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 326 1727

E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 418 1600

E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za

Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 374 2101

E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za

Website: www.ritco.co.za

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 606 0493

E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS

Tel no: 082 974 4566

E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za

Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS

Tel no: 072 203 3288

E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com

Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 794 1666

E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za

Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART

Tel no: 021 447 2492

E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za

Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C

Tel no: 031 306 4921

E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS

Tel no: 083 233 0910

E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za

SAVAGE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 902 2302

E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com

SCANT DESIGN

Tel: 072 339 1885

E-mail: as@scant.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC

Tel no: 021 683 4646

E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za

Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

SEA & SHORE

Tel: 082 742 5343

E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

SERAGLIO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 783 8301

E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com

Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 8297

E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 308 2111

E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com

Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 049 3933

E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 450 3192

E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com

Website: www.silkroutegold.com

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 334 4529

E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 726 2365

E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com

Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 460 6771

E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net

Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel no: 071 313 8649

E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com

Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 775 9995

E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com

Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 379 0171

E-mail: info@studio1980za.com

Website: https://studio1980za.com/

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 031 764 3000

E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net

Website: www.studio39.co.za

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 642 7826

E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za

Website: www.studioc.co.za

STUDIO LOUBSER

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com

Website: www.studioloubser.com

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS

Tel no: 015 293 2358

E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel: 082 779 7084

E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS

Tel: 082 523 9982

E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY

E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za

Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY

Tel no: 011 854 4556

E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za

Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST

Tel: 031 303 2396

E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

THE JEWELLERY HUB

Tel no: 083 326 5746

E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za

Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

THE MAKERY

Tel no: 082 600 7142

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com

Website: www.themakerycollection.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR

Tel no: 014 597 0736

E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za

Website: www.tpi.org.za

TINSEL GALLERY

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za

Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

TIP TOP JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 873 3048

E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

TRIMALCHIO

Tel no: 012 346 6874

E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 259 0100

E-mail: info@trislo.co.za

Website: www.trislo.co.za

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 012 382 6007

E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za

Website: www.tut.ac.za

UNCUT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 083 225 8221

E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za

Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za

UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125

E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za

Website: www.uj.ac.za

UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH

Tel no: 021 808 3047

E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za

Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/

VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 914 2192

E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za

VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 208 9142/3

E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za

Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za

VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 4758

E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com

VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS

Tel no: 031 564 2948

E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com

Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za

VK JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 789 4498

E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za

Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za

WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 554 1169

E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za

Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 011 318 1340

E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za

Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 074 136 3633

E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 109 2057

E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

ZULU MIEN

Tel: 0823344426

E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 015 293 2306/58

E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com

Website: www.zurel.co.za

AA WATCH WHOLESALERS CC

aaww@lantic.net

(012) 342-8978/9

BRAND SUPPORTERS

AFRASIAN DIAMONDS www.afrasiandiamonds.com

info@afrasiandiamonds.com

(011) 268-6980

tailormade sustainable solution for jewellery changing jewellery industry, market conditions global economic influences.

ANNA B www.annab.co.za

orders@anna.co.za

(021) 481-1023 / 071-843-2452

requires a detailed understanding of its unique in developing niche insurance products, providing cover for retail, wholesale and setters, watch importers, coin dealers, diamond and metal processors and refiners. all, we also appreciate that standard customers.

AJANTA AFRICA www.ajantaafrika.com

of specialist cover the jewellery industry has

gems@ajanta.co.za (021) 422-4677

Precious Assets division is excited to Jewel cover, which is endorsed by the natasha.maroun@brytesa.com or robyn.lambert@brytesa.com and learn how we can assist.

BASSANO GIOIELLI www.bassanogioielli.com

info@bassanogioielli.com (011) 704-5667/4164

BRYTE INSURANCE COMPANY LIMIT www.brytesa.com

natasha.maroun@brytesa.com

robyn.lambert@brytesa.com

(011) 370-9111

BYL DIAMONDS

www.byldiamonds.com orders@byldiamonds.com

(021) 419-2000

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS

www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

orders@capepreciousmetals.co.za

(021) 551-2066 / (011) 334-6263

(041) 365-1890 / (031) 303-5402

CAPE TOOLS AND JEWELLERY SUPPLIES

www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

orders@capepreciousmetals.co.za

(021) 551-2066 / (011) 334-6263

(041) 365-1890 / (031) 303-5402

LUXURY TIME

www.luxurytime.co.za

info@luxurytime.co.za

(012) 940-1055

JEWELLERY COUNCIL OF SOUTH AFRICA (JCSA)

Jewellex365 www.jewellery.org.za

lornal@jewelleyr.org.za

(011) 484-5528

DIA GRADING LAB

www.diagrading.co.za

dialab@telkomsa.net

From The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology™

(011) 334-5911

EGL SOUTH AFRICA

www.egl.co.za

admin@egl.co.za

(011) 334-4527

METAL CONCENTRATORS www.metcon.co.za info@metcon.co.za

(012) 000-4440

NAMAQUA MOISSANITE www.namaquamoissanite.com sales@nammoissanite.com

081-873-6456

GIA

GEMFIELDS www.gemfields.com

+44 (0) 20 7518 3400

GIA.edu

GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA) www.gia.edu

gia ed/contact us

+1-760-603-4000 – global hq

SM WATCH

www.smwatch.co.za

smwatch@iafrica.com

(012) 326-5996

UNGAR BROTHERS www.ungarbros.co.za

ungarbros@worldonline.co.za

(011) 642-2018

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