SA Jewellery News (SAJN) • May 2022 by Isikhova Media

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DIAMOND EDITION • AI in diamond grading • Evaluating the cut of a diamond • Venetia underground: digging deep

WE’RE NOT JUST MEETING GLOBAL STANDARDS; WE’RE RESHAPING THEM.

RESHAPING VALUE, FOR A CENTURY AND BEYOND. There was a time when value in the industry was measured only in purity, and weight, but today provenance and ethical background play an important part in value. Which is why we are always evolving how we source our metal. Our commitment to responsible business practices and sourcing, allow us to not only preserve our business, but our people, product and planet.

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For the love of

DIAMONDS

A reputation you can trust Fully independent and South African owned Reports for all your Gemmological requirements

Tel: +27 11 334 4527 / Cell: +27 83 656 9013 / E-mail: services@egl.co.za / Website: www.egl.co.za

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NAMAQUA MOISSANITE The Only Diamond Alternative Our premium quality Moissanite is only available through authorised resellers across South Africa Not a reseller yet? Become one today!

Our Moissanite gemstones are graded and certiﬁed by The Gem Lab - one of the most trusted names in the gemological industry in South Africa. We pride ourselves in our lifetime replacement warranty against scratching, chipping (even during setting) or discolouration. Our Moissanite is available in all standard sizes. We also custom manufacture any size according to requirements. Inquire for our info Booklet to ﬁnd out everything there is to know about this perfect diamond alternative.

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LAB GROWN DIAMONDS The Lab Diamond Market is exploding! Are you selling this miracle science yet?

We supply top quality HPHT & CVD lab diamonds, graded and certiﬁed by IGI, GIA and The Gem Lab. More than 10 000 certiﬁed diamonds available on request Strictly trade only - RAP less 70% -85%

We value our client relationships and only deal directly with the trade

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Finest gemstones, beads & unconventional diamonds 076 162 3741 or 021 422 4677 gems@ajanta.co.za

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ADDRESS: Private Bag X46218, Belle Ombre, 0142 TEL: 012 326 8348 / 012 328 5996 | FAX: 012 325 7097 EMAIL: smwatch@iafrica.com | WEBSITE: www.smwatch.co.za

SAJN | CONTENTS

contents Editor: Adri Viviers Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 084-261-1805 E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za Publishing Director: Jason Aarons Cell: 074-400-6677 E-mail: jason@isikhova.co.za Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus Cell: 083-450-6052 E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za Creative Director: Joanne Brook E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za

10. NEWS • Fumana collaborates with Isabel Bothma • Swatch joins forces with Centre Pompidou for an art-filled watch collection • Jewellery Industry Voices conducts two hybrid seminars in Vicenza • Dubai partners with Botswana to promote diamonds • De Beers Group rough diamond sales for cycle 2, 2022 • Hong Kong jewellery shows rescheduled once again • WFDB appoints Eyal Shirazy Executive Director of Get-Diamonds • PlatAfrica Pop-Up still open

Operations Director: Thuli Majola Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za Advertising Sales: Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627 Cell: 083-450-6052

18. VENETIA UNDERGROUND: DIGGING DEEP AND DOING GOOD

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips Distribution: Ruth Dlamini and Direct Marketing Solution

One of the most significant investments in the South African mining industry in over 20 years is the transition of Limpopo-based Venetia mine from a surface operation to an underground mine.

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

16. AI IN DIAMOND GRADING

30. AN INDUSTRY VETERAN ON HOW LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS ARE PUSHING THE TRADE TO EXPERIMENT

Developing an AI-based clarity grading system with industry leader IBM, the Gemological Institute of America builds on decades of work and information gleaned from examining tens of millions of diamonds.

Victoria Gomelsky, Editor-in-Chief of JCK magazine, tells Avi Levy, North America President for the International Gemological Institute, about the growth of the labgrown diamond market.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

savvy thinkers smart doers together people

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

CONTENTS | SAJN

Official Journal of the Jewellery Council of South Africa and the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa. www.jewellery.org.za www.ddcsa.co.za

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Team SAJN attended the Rand Refinery Enterprise Development: Silver Mentorship Programme Graduation held on 18 March at the refinery in Germiston, Gauteng. DIAMOND EDITION

41. THE WORLD’S MOST POPULAR GREEN GEM Emerald, the birthstone for May, has been beloved for millennia, evoking rebirth and renewal. From the poetic description of Ireland as “the Emerald Isle” to the vibrant green of the famed gemstone itself, it has captured hearts and minds through the ages.

• AI in diamond grading • Evaluating the cut of a diamond • Venetia underground: digging deep

On the cover The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has a decades-long history of diamond grading innovation. From the colorimeter – first introduced in the 1940s – to using artificial intelligence for clarity grading, each new technology enhances the grading

34. EVALUATING THE CUT OF A DIAMOND

process, adding efficiency, consistency and advancing GIA’s consumer protection mission. For more information visit: www.gia.edu

With practice, a jeweller can estimate a diamond’s proportions and evaluate its cut by using a variety of visual observations.

36. SA AUCTION HOUSE CAPTURES THE ESSENCE OF ART THROUGH JEWELLERY

42. LITTLE GEMS

Through Strauss & Co’s collaboration with renowned jewellery designer Mahak Kala of Panchoo London, the local auction house is marrying Mahak’s expertise in jewellery with its expertise in art.

Chalcedony is one of the most important jewellery and ornamental stones of all time. It has been a favourite of hobbyists and professional jewellers because of its abundance and affordability.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2022. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

SAJN | EDITOR’S NOTE WELCOME TO OUR DIAMOND EDITION, AN entire issue dedicated to one of the most soughtafter jewels in the world, one of the hardest materials on earth and one of the most precious gems that add a spectacular sparkle in jewellery. This alluring gemstone has been coveted for centuries and is steeped in myth for its breathtaking brilliance and symbolic meaning. The earliest descriptions of diamonds date back to the 4th century BC in northern India, which makes the diamond industry one of mankind’s oldest and most valuable luxury markets of all time. Although it did not undergo many significant changes throughout most of its long history, today technology has re-invigorating and revolutionising the industry, making it even more efficient, transparent and customer-focused. In this issue, SAJN talks to the GIA about its recent technological advances in diamondgrading and its partnership with IBM, which harnesses the power of artificial intelligence on the cloud to grade the clarity of diamonds. The issue includes an interview with an industry veteran on how lab-grown diamonds are pushing the trade to experiment. We also explore numerous

note

Editor’s

diamond cuts and how these are evaluated and have a look at De Beers’ Venetia Underground Project, the transition of the Limpopo-based mine from a surface operation to an underground mine which makes it one of the most significant investments in the South African mining industry in over 20 years. The discovery of diamonds in South Africa played a fundamental role in the world’s diamond history – it led to the Kimberley Diamond Rush and marked the beginning of the Mineral Revolution. Ever since then, SA has been a world leader in diamond production, currently ranking fifth in world. It continues to make a considerable contribution to the local economic and social environment. It has been said that diamonds are forever – and, despite various obstacles, recent innovative technologies and developments are set to ensure that the same can be said for the global diamond trade. We cannot wait to see what is next. Enjoy this issue!

Adri Viviers

SOUTH AFRICA’S

DIAMOND SUPPLIER

Tel: +27 11 334 4815/6 • Mobile: 082 551 9519 • Email: michael@abstral.co.za

Abstral Diamonds

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

SAJN | NEWS

DUBAI PARTNERS WITH BOTSWANA TO PROMOTE DIAMONDS

PLATAFRICA POP-UP STILL OPEN

The Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC) has signed an agreement with Botswana’s Okavango Diamond Company to crosspromote the industry through various business endeavours. Under the partnership, Okavango will hold diamond auctions and viewings at the Dubai Diamond Exchange, which is part of the DMCC. They will also exchange information, analytical materials and forecasts on the development of the global diamond market. The parties will work together on applying the Kimberley Process, the DMCC added. “I look forward to working with the

Annually, Anglo American Platinum, Platinum Guild International India and Metal Concentrators host the PlatAfrica jewellery design and manufacture competition. The competition celebrates and supports the South African platinum industry by giving student, apprentice and professional jewellers the opportunity to work, experiment, innovate and develop their technical expertise with the metal. PlatAfrica highlights the strength and beauty of platinum, while revealing the glowing jeweller talent of SA. Every year an original theme is chosen for the competition, producing one-of-a-kind, statement pieces of jewellery, and many of those pieces are melted down in order to re-use the precious platinum. The PlatAfrica Pop-Up Store, which is exclusively online, gives the public an opportunity to invest in the precious resource of platinum and in the South African jewellery industry. To view or shop pieces from the PlatAfrica 2021 Metamorphosis collection, visit: https:// plat.africa/collection/all.

Okavango Diamond Company to promote the development of the global diamond industry,” said DMCC Chief Operating Officer Feryal Ahmadi. “As one of the world’s largest producers of diamonds, Botswana is a key market for the DMCC and its members.” The agreement is the most recent in a line of ventures on which the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Botswana have partnered. The two have worked together for the past decade on other projects, with non-oil bilateral trade between the UAE and Botswana reaching approximately US$1,3 billion in 2020, up from US$4,2 million in 2010. – Rapaport

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY VOICES CONDUCTS TWO HYBRID SEMINARS IN VICENZA For the third time since CIBJO’s webinar programme was launched in April 2020, Jewellery Industry Voices recently conducted two live seminars/webinars from the VicenzaOro show in Vicenza, Italy. The seminars took place before an in-person audience on the main stage in Hall 7 at the Fiera di Vicenza exposition centre and was live-streamed simultaneously to a global audience via the Internet. The first seminar was entitled Emphasising Jewellery’s Positive Impact on Society as an Integral Part of its Value Proposition. It considered the cultural shifts that have accelerated among consumers as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, which have required jewellery brands to place added emphasis on the social value of their products and the jewellery, precious metals and gemstone industries. Moderated by Edward Johnson, the first seminar’s panellists included Charlie Betts, The Betts Group, UK; Hayley Henning, Greenland Ruby, Greenland; Justin Hunter, Fiji Pearls, Fiji; Huw Daniel, of the New York-headquartered Platinum Guild International and Christopher

Bull, Dimexon, Belgium/India. The second seminar was entitled Innovation and Technology in Jewellery Manufacturing: Supporting Creativity and Driving Sustainable Impact. The seminar was sponsored by Platinum Guild International. The second seminar examined how new techniques in jewellery manufacturing, such as 3D printing, laser-welding and innovation in alloying precious metals, are enabling manufacturers to create a wider range and type of jewellery items than was possible before, attracting a more inclusive and diverse range of jewellery designers. Furthermore, with a greater focus on sustainability in production, such innovations allow retailers to demonstrate the positive steps jewellery manufacturing is making to improve efficiency, decrease waste and reduce energy usage. Again moderated by Edward Johnson, the second seminar’s panellists included Damiano Zito, Progold, Italy; Josh Helmich, Helmich Luxury Group, USA; Peter Crump, Vipa Designs, UK and Kelvin James, Diamond Centre of Wales.

FUMANA COLLABORATES WITH ISABEL BOTHMA Fumana Jewellers Collective has announced a new collaboration with Isabel Bothma. Launched by local refinery Metal Concentrators and the SA Diamonds and Precious Metals Regulator last September, Fumana is a South African jewellery collective that discovers and curates local jewellers and their jewellery. Bothma is fascinated with the forms and shapes of decorative jewellery. Her confidence in her craft stems from a deep appreciation for the art behind each piece. Her work will soon be available on the Fumana Jewellers Collective website.

TAG HEUER CARRERA X PORSCHE PRESENTED AT WATCHES AND WONDERS TAG Heuer and Porsche have opened a new chapter in their joint adventure by creating a bold and decidedly sporty timepiece. TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is enhanced by Porsche’s aesthetic appeal, which is inspired by its racing yellow shade. With a black dial texture mimicking the metal-

lic bodywork of cars, a leather strap with double stitching that represents the seat upholstery of Porsche cars and its redesigned oscillating mass in homage to the famous Porsche steering wheel, this chronograph embodies the shared history and passion of TAG Heuer and Porsche. True to TAG Heuer’s racing DNA, the case is

powered by its in-house manufacture Heuer 02 automatic movement, with an unstoppable 80-hour power reserve. Showing confident urban looks, the 44 mm black DLC steel case features the famous Porsche-inspired steering wheel-shaped oscillating mass, visible through the sapphire case-back.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

SAJN | ADVERTORIAL

Global bullion trade Ensuring trust and integrity at the forefront of every transaction GLOBAL BULLION TRADE (GBT) IS A PRECIOUS metals trader focused on wholesale trade and catering to investors who wish to purchase large quantities of bullion. GBT was established in 2018 with the primary goal of expanding wholesale trade in South Africa and Africa at large. GBT offers a professional and personalised service for precious metals dealers looking to purchase metals in bulk. Our experienced metals experts provide each client with a seamless and hassle-free experience, while ensuring that trust and integrity are at the forefront of every transaction. GBT imports a range of international legal tender gold, silver and platinum coins, as well as investmentgrade precious metals for your convenience. We take the stress out of managing logistics and customs delays. A discussion on your specific needs can also be arranged with our global bullion expert. E-mail: info@globalbulliontrade.com for more information or contact Debra Thomson on tel: +27 83 290 0282.

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SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

NEWS | SAJN

DE BEERS GROUP ROUGH DIAMOND SALES FOR CYCLE 2, 2022 The De Beers Group has announced the value of rough diamond sales (Global Sightholder Sales and Auctions) for the second sales cycle of 2022. Owing to the restrictions on the movement of people and products in various jurisdictions around the globe, the group has continued to implement a more flexible approach to rough diamond sales during the second sales cycle of 2022, with the Sight event extended beyond its normal week-long duration.“The second

Sales value3 (US$m)

sales cycle of the year saw the continuation of robust rough diamond demand underpinned by sustained positive consumer sentiment,” said Bruce Cleaver, De Beers Group CEO. “We’ve been shocked and saddened by the war in Ukraine and our hearts go out to the Ukrainian people. De Beers will donate US$1 million to aid organisations operating in the region and provide support to those affected by the war.”

Cycle 2, 2022 (provisional)1

Cycle 1, 2022 (actual)2

Cycle 2, 2021 (actual)

650

660

550

HONG KONG JEWELLERY SHOWS RESCHEDULED ONCE AGAIN The Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) has again rescheduled the dates of the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show and the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show. The events will now run alongside the HKTDC Simply Shopping Fest from 29 July-2 August at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. Both fairs will be open to the public. According to the HKTDC, its decision to reschedule the fairs for the third time was due to the government’s tightened social distancing rules in light of COVID-19, including restrictions on large gatherings.

JZA’S “ODE TO AUTUMN” ISSUE OUT NOW SUMMER 2021

Officially endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA)

JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine’s autumn issue is a look-book of seasonal enchantment which not only captures spectacular autumn jewellery in magnificent burnished oranges, yellows, subtle magenta shades, reds, purples and browns, but in unexpected bright palettes and “lust-have” designs you will really fall for. This issue continues to applaud South African – and, indeed, African – jewellery talent, creations and sustainability, with its regular Homegrown and Into Africa features. The publication also delves into on-point and emerging trends from Pearls for Curls, Viva Vintage, The Comeback Kid – the Choker, the

60s revival, men’s signet rings and a special Mother’s Day Magic gift ideas section. Plus all the glitz and glam of Bridgerton Season 2 regency jewellery and JZA’s top picks from the 2022 Oscars! Read more at https://issuu.com/isikhovapublishing/ docs/jza_6_autumn2022. JZA is South Africa’s first and only dedicated, online consumer-related magazine and carries the endorsement of the Jewellery Council of South Africa. To subscribe – free of charge – e-mail: jza@ isikhova.co.za. For the Brand Card, email: ruwayda@ isikhova.co.za.

WFDB APPOINTS EYAL SHIRAZY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF GET-DIAMONDS The World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) announced that Eyal Shirazy has been appointed Executive Director of GETDiamonds, its global B2B trading platform for polished diamonds. “We’re very pleased that Eyal is leading GETDiamonds,” says Yoram Dvash, President of the WFDB. “We’re confident that the knowledge and experience he brings will make GETDiamonds the most technologically advanced trading platform in the diamond industry.” Before entering the diamond industry, Shirazy held a number of management positions in the digital world. For the past decade, he served as Chief Digital Officer for the Shlomo Sixt Group, the franchisee of the international brand Sixt and one of the largest investment groups in the Israeli economy in the

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

areas of automotive, insurance, shipyards and real estate. In this role, he managed all digital assets of the company and their marketing, reaching very large sales volumes. He began his career in the digital world in tourism, where he pioneered the establishment of the first tourism trade site. Shirazy holds a Bachelor’s degree in management and a Master’s degree in computer science. “I’m excited to join this industry which is hungry for digital change,” says Shirazy. “My goal is to make GET-Diamonds the primary platform for large and small businesses; to provide all the easy-to-use tools that will make it a one-stop shop. I was privileged to present GET-Diamonds’ new vision at the WFDB Presidents’ Conference in Dubai, where I got to know the wonderful people in the industry

from all over the world. I was happy to visit the JGT exhibition, where I found that there was major awareness and appreciation of GETDiamonds.” GET-Diamonds was launched by the WFDB in April 2020 as a non-profit organisation committed to serving the industry. Its motto is “By the industry, for the industry” and profits generated by the site will be invested in projects that benefit the industry, including generic diamond marketing. Since its inception, GET-Diamonds has quickly grown to be one of the largest diamond trading sites, listing over 1,6 million diamonds from 4 600 vendors, with a total value of over US$6,6 billion. In May 2021, GET-Diamonds signed a new long-term agreement with high-tech company Lucy Platforms.

SAJN | NEWS

SWATCH JOINS FORCES WITH CENTRE POMPIDOU FOR AN ART-FILLED WATCH COLLECTION Swatch has opened the doors to one of the world’s largest collections of modern and contemporary art with the Swatch X Centre Pompidou Collection. Six iconic masterpieces from the Parisian landmark are re-imagined as statement watches, including works by Frida Kahlo, Amedeo Modigliani, Robert Delaunay, Vassily Kandinsky and Piet Mondrian. Time is what you make of it and Swatch believes there should be more time for art in people’s everyday lives. Since 1985, the brand has issued a long line of exclusive Swatch Art Special watches. In 2018, the brand took it to the next level with its Museum Journey series, where museums grant Swatch access to their masterpieces to make the most iconic artworks in the world accessible to everybody. So far, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, the Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum in Madrid, the Musée du Louvre in Paris, the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York and now the Centre Pompidou have opened their doors to Swatch. The synergies between Swatch and Centre Pompidou are clear. Both are on a mission to make art accessible to all. They are revolutionary, Swatch for bringing art to wrists and the Centre

Pompidou for bringing art to the masses. Vibrant colours and transparent details are the signature hallmarks of the Swiss watch brand and the inside-out building made of steel, with primary-coloured tubing and the renowned “caterpillar” glass-enclosed escalators snaking up the side that enable passers-by to view the art inside. The Swatch X Centre Pompidou Collection is the latest in a long line of collaborations that started in 1985 with the unveiling of the first Swatch Art Special watch with Kiki Picasso at the museum. In 1999, one of the building’s architects, Renzo Piano, translated the architectural signature into the Jenny Piano watch. That same year, during the renovation of the Centre Pompidou, Swatch created the world’s biggest outdoor billboard. It featured the iconic statement “Vous aussi, vous êtes notre musée” (“You too, you are our museum”) and made the Guinness Book of World Records. Swatch re-imagines six masterpieces from the Centre Pompidou, complete with its signature hallmarks and unexpected details. The result? A collection of wearable artworks that bring a splash of colour and culture to every day.

ITRACEIT ROLLS OUT BLOCKCHAIN-BASED APPLICATION FOR TRACING DIAMONDS AND JEWELLERY iTraceiT, the Belgian-based innovative technology and service provider that developed a comprehensive, blockchain-based application for tracing diamonds, gemstones and jewellery, has begun distribution after completing prolonged beta testing with some of the largest firms in the global diamond industry. The iTraceiT application creates a unique, blockchain-supported QR code that records, stores and reports all processes performed on diamonds and gemstones, keeping track of every action taken throughout the production process, ie from the rough to the finished piece of jewellery. “With iTraceiT, users can create and integrate a comprehensive, digital chain of reference for all their products,” says iTraceiT CEO Frederik Degryse. “We’re confident that our application’s affordability, seamless integration into a company’s workflow and ease of use will appeal to all, especially those hesitant about adopting a blockchain-based

tool into their business management models. During our beta testing, the integration of the iTraceiT application into a company’s production process and business model proved easy and efficient.”

Degryse emphasises that by integrating the iTraceiT application into their production and marketing processes, users comply with the strict demands of ethical and economic compliance, transparency and traceability in

the current market. “Governments, banks and financial institutions, trade organisations and NGOs wholesale and retail clients and – last but not least – the end consumers, all demand that the provenance of diamonds and gemstones is crystal-clear and clean. By integrating the iTraceiT application into their business models, industry operators at all levels of the supply pipeline are guaranteed peace of mind,” says Degryse. He notes that the pandemic and recent global events have made digital innovation, traceability and transparency indispensable in the diamond industry. “The digital revolution has transformed the diamond, gem and jewellery industry and trade. The increase in the availability of data, the degree of connectivity and the speed at which we need to take decisions have driven us all to adopt digital methods and tools that enable us to run our diamond and jewellery businesses successfully and profitably in this new reality.”

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

IT’S ABOUT THE SPARKLE

Suite 313 – Third Floor, 5 Sturdee Avenue, Johannesburg, South Africa Oﬃce: +27 11 268 6980 • Cell: +27 64 954 1204 / +27 82 707 8676 info@afrasiandiamonds.co.za • www.afrasiandiamonds.co.za

SAJN | TECHNOLOGY

AI in diamond grading

Developing an artificial intelligence (AI)-based clarity grading system with industry leader IBM, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) builds on decades of work and information gleaned from examining tens of millions of diamonds. SAJN asked it about its partnership with IBM and how AI has changed the way it grades diamonds.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

TECHNOLOGY | SAJN THROUGH NEW TECHNOLOGY, THE GIA enhances the grading process, adding efficiency and consistency and advancing its consumer protection mission. Its diamond grading innovation spans decades – from the colorimeter, which was first introduced in the 1940s, to using AI for clarity grading. How many stones does GIA analyse a year? The 11 GIA laboratories around the world receive millions of diamonds, coloured stones and pearls for examination and evaluation each year.

Clarity is perhaps the most complex of the four Cs to grade, as there are so many variables. The size, shape, colour, placement and number of inclusions and blemishes have to be evaluated individually and in relationship to each other. We worked on adding automation to clarity grading for more than a decade. We made great strides, but it was not until AI and machine learning technology reached a level of maturity that we were able to develop a system that could accurately and consistently apply GIA’s clarity grading standards.

How has AI changed the way GIA grades diamonds? Adding AI, instrumentation and automation to the way we grade diamonds increases capacity, improves consistency even further and enables us to explore new services using the skills and expertise of our highly trained and experienced grading teams. Automation improves the diamond grading process; the GIA grading standards remain unchanged. It is important to remember that an automated system is only as good as the information it is based on. GIA’s clarity information is based on the tens of millions of diamonds we have examined. Any system that applies the nomenclature and grades of the GIA International Diamond Grading System must include GIA’s standards. GIA has brought a lot of different instruments into the industry over the years and solved the problems of cut, carat weight and colour a long time ago. How has AI helped conquer GIA’s last frontier, clarity? GIA first introduced the colorimeter for colour grading in the 1940s and Facetware to support the GIA cut grading system for round brilliant cut diamonds in 2005, and we have continuously improved both systems over time.

What is GIA’s cloud-based AI approach to diamond grading? Our clarity grading system leverages GIA’s deep knowledge of diamonds and understanding of our grading standards to return consistent, accurate clarity grades. How does this new system analyse each diamond? Our AI clarity grading system captures highquality, detailed images of each diamond. Those images are uploaded to the GIA cloud, where the AI algorithm evaluates clarity based on an immense database of clarity information – something only GIA has. The result is a predicted clarity grade which is reviewed and confirmed by an experienced GIA diamond grading expert. How many of GIA’s labs are presently making use of this system? The system is being used in several GIA laboratories around the world. The clarity recommendations of the AI system are all reviewed by an expert grader before they are finalised. What are the major benefits of GIA’s AI clarity system? Adding automation for any aspect of the grading process – for any of the four Cs or any step from intake to return – advances GIA’s consumer protection mission. The greater efficiency and consistency that our AI clarity grading system enables means we can grade more diamonds more quickly – and that means more consumers are protected.

GIA has partnered with IBM to take diamond clarity grading to new heights. What did the partnership entail? What did each organisation bring to the table? Using AI for this required three elements – excellent optics to capture images, a vast store of clarity grading data and unmatched expertise in AI. GIA had two of these – image capture and processing, and more data on more diamonds than anyone else. By working with IBM, we added the third element from the industry leader in AI research and applications.

We worked on adding automation to clarity grading for more than a decade. We made great strides, but it was not until AI and machine learning technology reached a level of maturity that we were able to develop a system that could accurately and consistently apply GIA’s clarity grading standards. SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

SAJN | DIAMOND MINING

Venetia Underground: digging deep and doing good One of the most significant investments in the South African mining industry in over 20 years is the transition of Limpopo-based Venetia mine from a surface operation to an underground mine. KNOWN AS THE VENETIA UNDERGROUND Project (VUP), the transformation of the mine incorporates the design and commissioning of a new FutureSmart Mining™ technology-led underground operation and supporting surface infrastructure. Upgrades to Venetia will breathe new life into the mine, extending its life-span to at least 2046 – well beyond its original open-pit operation life-span ending this year. The continuation of operations at Venetia ensures that the mine retains its position as one of the largest diamond producers in De Beers’ portfolio and will also secure the ongoing benefit to the South African economy, Venetia mine employees and communities around the operation. Despite the impact of working through four COVID-19 waves in the past two years, Venetia is on track to produce its first underground carats within the first half of 2023. Once in full operation, Venetia will mine 6 Mtpa (million tonnes per annum) ROM (run of mine) to produce between 4,5-5,5 million carats per year – volumes similar to those from the surface operation. The “top-of-mine” portion will deliver total

production of around 4 Mtpa for four years, after which the “bottom-of-mine” will move into production, enabling nameplate capacity to be achieved in 2025/26. To prevent interruptions in ore supply to the treatment, De Beers is storing material in its surface operation to augment initial underground tonnages and maintain volumes. When fully operational, Venetia’s two kim-

berlites (K01 and K02) will transition from open pits to underground operations. The K02 pit’s resource has already been depleted and the K01 pit will conclude surface mining in late 2022 – accommodating a smooth changeover to the underground mine. As part of the upgrades to the mining facility, Venetia will boast two new head gears inclusive of: • two vertical shaft systems for ore and personnel transport; • routing of services; • lateral access levels on 54, 94, 100 and 103 level; and • shaft bottoms at 107 level (1 070 m) for service and production, respectively.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

DIAMOND MINING | SAJN

Upgrades to Venetia will breathe new life into the mine, extending its life-span to at least 2046 – well beyond its original openpit operation life-span ending this year. The continuation of operations at Venetia ensures that the mine retains its position as one of the largest diamond producers in De Beers’ portfolio and will also secure the ongoing benefit to the South African economy.

The development of underground operations is complemented by surface infrastructure, including a surface terrace hosting a main consumer substation. winder houses and headgears, an office complex, change house, lamp room, proto room, concrete batch plant, surface ventilation fans, compressor house, shaft service workshops incorporating the rope store/skip workshop, fire and process water systems, process water settlers, domestic water tank, process water dam, firewater tanks, ore and waste conveyors and a buffer stockpile. Of course, no significant mining investment is without its challenges and Venetia is no different. Transforming Venetia into an underground mine requires managing the risks presented by water ingress into the new

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

underground workings. As such, De Beers has commissioned the first of the three phases of a top-of-mine water management system. The water system is pivotal to managing the potentially high volumes of water that may funnel from the pit into underground operations. This system includes multiple large water doors designed to block water into specific areas when needed and a water pump system. The final water management system can push 4 500m3 of water an hour to the surface at total pumping capacity. In addition to the above systems, R70 million has been invested in a new weather station linked to the South African Weather Services. The system will allow the De Beers’

operation to respond better to severe weather conditions and their risks. Investment in its mining infrastructure is critical to VUP’s success, but so is an investment in its people. Therefore, as part of the transformation at Venetia, De Beers is also investing in training and skills for personnel. To date, 180 employees have transitioned from the surface to the underground operation, employing around 860 personnel when fully operational. “As we continue to grow our business and evaluate investment opportunities in South Africa, we’re encouraged by the efforts we’re seeing in improving South Africa’s investment climate,” says the mining giant. “Such improvement will change the lives of millions of South Africans from every work of life.”

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BUSINESS PROFILE

ABOUT US Vanda Cubate (Pty) Ltd is a Recently Formed 100% Black-Owned and Operated Company. The Decision to formally register the Business was based on The Decision by The Management to Enter the Mainstream of the Economy, after having identiﬁed a Gap in the Market for the Supply and Delivery in the Mining Sector of Polish Diamonds and Rough Diamonds Evaluations That Were much needed by the Public and Private Mining Sectors. We believe our Company can Offer Our Clients with Quality Products and Services at a Reasonable Costs, Superior Quality and Services. It is Envisaged Vanda Diamonds Operates, to the Company Choice within the Public and Private Mining Sectors, in the Process also becoming the Employer of many Members of the Community. The Company will thrive on the Fact that it will Create Mining Community Awareness with its clients who often refer Business to them. Currently the business is Polishing Rough Diamonds for Avenues to grow its Revenue, Clientele and International Market which we are targeting SAD.

OUR SERVICE OFFERINGS KDJI services newly registered existing companies (SME’s) with access to facilities, infrastructure, business and technology skills development, enterprise mentoring and coaching services and facilitation of linkages to markets. KDJI is based at: 25 Villiers Street, Kimberley, South Africa, 8300 Tel: +27 (0)53 831 1867 Fax: +27 (0)86 572 4934 Email: info@kdji.org

OUR VISION To be a well-Managed and Proﬁtable Company that Strives to Empower the Previously Disadvantaged Communities Through Skills Transfer, whilst providing Reliable and Efﬁcient Services to the Customers and improve their bottom line.by Ensuring Every Finish Product is Registered at all Times. MISSION STATEMENT

COMPANYTo BACKGROUND Provide Reliable and Cost-Effective Services to our Customers

Vanda Cubate (Pty) Ltd is a Recently 100% Black-Owned andof Operated Company. The that Provides Cost To provide Customers withFormed Excellent Service on a Range Products and Services Decision to formally register the Business was based on The Decision by The Management to Enter the Effective and Convenience. Mainstream of the Economy, after having identified a Gap in the Market for the Supply and Delivery in the Mining Sector of Polish Diamonds and Rough Diamonds Evaluations That Were much needed by the To continuously improve on our our Services to Suit Needs and Convenience of our Customers. Public and Private Mining Sectors. We believe Company canthe Offer Our Clients with Quality Products and Services at a Reasonable Costs, Superior Quality and Services.

Constantly develop our Staff Members to Maintain World Class Service Delivery.

It is Envisaged Vanda Diamonds Operates, to the Company Choice within the Public and Private Mining OUR VALUES Sectors, in the Process also becoming the Employer of many Members of the Community. The Company will thrive on the Fact that it will Create Mining Community Awareness with its clients who often refer Performance Business to them. Currently the business is Polishing Rough Diamonds for Avenues to grow its Revenue, We Deliver on our Commitment and Promises in a Timely Manner. Always keep Products Ready for Clientele and International Market which we are targeting SAD.

Supply Superior Quality Diamonds to ensure Speedy Deliveries.

OUR VISION

Integrity We acceptand responsibility to Operate thetoHighest Integrity in all our Actions. To be Honest and To be a well-Managed Profitable Company thatwith Strives Empower the Previously Disadvantaged Communities Through Skills Transfer, whilst providing and Efficient Services to the Customers and sincere in our Undertakings with ClientsReliable and Staff Members. Respect To Always Treat all our Team-Members, Clients and Partners with Respect and Try our Level Best to Meet their Needs while giving them only the Best Quality Products and Service. Professionalism To Always conduct ourselves professionally amongst our Clients and create an Environment that does not allow any Compromise on any Good Business Ethics. PRODUCTS & SERVICES Vanda Cubate (Pty) Ltd is a Private Company That Specializes in Mining Sector (Diamond Polishing and Cutting) and Investment which we Provider Services to Local Jewellers,International Jewellers and Jewellers Manufactures, with a World Class Unique Product, by Ensuring We Produce a Unique Excellent Cut. We also make sure we register all of the Polish Diamond under G.I.A for Certiﬁcate of Origin. Services • Bruiting Diamonds • Analysing Diamonds • Polishing Diamonds • Cleaning Scaifes

Head Office Contact 25 Villiers Street, CBD Kimberley, Northern Cape Republic of South Africa 8301 Contact Office Number +27 53 831 1750 Fax Number +27 86 660 7216 Founder and Chief Executive Officer Mr Lebogang Mokoa Email Address: Vcubate002@webmail.co.za Contact Number: +27 78 239 4222

Monthly educational insert An SA Jewellery News and Jewellery Council of South Africa initiative

Written by Dr Petré Prins, Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook is an introduction to gemstones, jewellery and store management.

The following is an extract from Gems and Jewellery: The South African Handbook

After two years' post-graduate research at Cambridge University, UK and 10 years as a senior lecturer in geochemistry and mineralogy at the University of Stellenbosch, South Africa, Dr Prins, in 1982, started Prins & Prins Diamonds, a leading supplier of diamonds, gemstones and fine jewellery in Cape Town.

ISSUE ISSUE 23 29

5. GOLD COINS AND MEDALLIONS Most jewellers will come into contact with gold coins and medallions, either as loose collector’s items or set in jewellery. In South Africa, the Krugerrand and the British sovereign are the most ubiquitous, while a vast number of commemorative gold medallions are regularly produced.

and certain limited issues of the past may sell well above their gold value due to demand from collectors. Their face values (R1, US$5, etc) are mostly symbolic, but are required for legal reasons and do not reflect the true value of the coin.

GOLD COIN HISTORY

Gold and silver commemorative medallions are normally produced by private companies to commemorate an historic event or person. Examples are coronations and weddings of royalty, the discovery of gold, the life of Nelson Mandela and a host of other special-occasion medallions. These are heavily promoted and sell at a significant premium above their base gold value. There is normally not much of a secondary market for these medallions and their value is based on their inherent gold content.

The first gold coins were produced by the Lydians in about 640 BC. They were made of electrum, a mixture of gold and silver that was found in the silt of the river Pactolus which ran through their capital, Sardis. Celtic tribes in Britain produced gold and silver coins, while the Romans produced only a few gold coins among vast issues of silver, bronze and copper coins. In the Middle Ages, most European and some Far Eastern countries produced gold coins which today are soughtafter collector’s items. The first British gold sovereign with a value of one pound sterling was struck in 1489 during the reign of King Henry V11. Subsequent monarchs continued with the issuing of gold coins with names such as “unite”, “laurel” and “guinea”. In 1816, the modern sovereign was introduced. The reverse design featured St George slaying a dragon, while the obverse continued with the profile of the reigning monarch. This became the world’s most recognised gold coin. Its production was stopped during the world wars and only restarted in 1957. After a break from 1982, the Royal Mint again began producing modern sovereigns in 2000. For centuries, gold coins were produced by most of the wealthier trading countries, until 1933. Thereafter, almost all countries stopped gold coin production until South Africa, in 1967, introduced the Krugerrand.

LEGAL TENDER (BULLION) COINS VS MEDALLIONS

THE KRUGERRAND This was the first bullion coin to contain precisely one troy ounce of fine gold and be sold at the market value of its face gold content. The Krugerrand was developed as a vehicle for the private ownership of gold and originally sold with a 5% premium on its gold value. Today, premiums are down to a few percent above the market price of gold. However, during a bullish gold market these premiums normally increase dramatically. It is produced in various sizes (see table below) and is minted in 22k gold alloy. It weighs 1,0909 ounces (33,93 grams) and consists of 31,1035 grams of fine gold (which is equal to one troy ounce) and 2,826 grams of copper, which gives the Krugerrand a reddish colour compared with the yellow colour of most other silver alloyed bullion coins. Proof Krugerrands - whose raised designs have a sandblasted finish in contrast to their mirror-finished background - are minted in limited numbers and sold to collectors at premiums ranging from 10-40%, depending on the condition and rarity of the coin.

It is important to know the difference between a legal tender coin, a legal tender commemorative coin and a commemorative medallion.

Legal tender coins are minted with governmental decree such as the Krugerrand - and are sold with a small premium above their inherent gold value. Legal tender commemorative coins - such as the Naturas, Proteas and the R1 and R2 cultural coin series - are also minted with governmental approval, but sold with higher premiums to the small collector and investor. Their resale value will not be much above their inherent gold value. Most legal tender coins enjoy an active secondary market

Half Krugerrands. Proof coin with matt bust (left) and normal coin (right).

AN INTRODUCTION ISSUE TO 29 GEMSTONES

The worldwide popularity of the Krugerrand prompted many gold-producing nations to mint their own bullion coins. Of these, the Canadian Gold Maple Leaf (introduced in 1979), the Australian Nugget (1981), the Chinese Gold Panda (1982) and the American Gold Eagle (1986) are the most popular. Most of these coins are also produced today in other metals such as platinum, palladium and silver and in smaller (1/10, 1/4 and 1/2 ounce) sizes. There was even a minted silver Krugerrand by a private company in the 1980s.

COIN JEWELLERY Coin jewellery - in the form of a single coin pendant or multiple coins set as neckpieces, bracelets, and ankle and belly chains - have been popular in many cultures over many centuries. The styles and content of coin jewellery have changed according to the demands of fashion and many ladies still treasure a silver threepence bracelet, a 1/0th Krugerrand pendant with small diamonds or even an antique Roman coin set in an upmarket Bulgari pendant.

A Natura gold coin, from the “Big Five” series.

R2 van Riebeeck gold coin obverse (left) and reverse (right). Not to be confused with Krugerrands.

SA Protea commemorative gold coin. Obverse (left) and reverse (right) of one oz proof.

American Gold Eagle bullion coin. Obverse (left) and reverse (right) proof one oz.

Chinese Gold Panda bullion coin. Obverse (left) and reverse (right).

Australian Gold Nugget Coin. Obverse (left) and reverse (right) proof one oz.

SPECIFICATIONS OF SOUTH AFRICAN LEGAL TENDER GOLD COINS KRUGERRAND (22k gold)

face value

1oz bullion

R10

1oz proof 1/2 oz

weight (gram)

gold content (gram)

33.9305

31.104

R10

33.9305

16.9653

1/4 oz

R2.5

1/10 oz

serrations (mm)

diameter (mm)

thickness

mark-up approx %

180

32.70

2.78

3-7

31.104

220

32.70

2.78

10-40

15.552

150

26.98

2.17

8.4826

7.776

140

22.00

1.85

3.3931

3.11

115

16.50

1.30

NATURA COIN SERIES depicting the Big Five (1994-98), Monarchs of Africa (1999-2001), etc 1 oz (24k)

R100

31.107

32.69

1/2 oz

R50

15.553

7.00

1/4 oz

R20

7.777

22.00

1/10 oz

R10

3.110

15.00

THE PROTEA COINS commemorating events such as 200 Years of Banking in SA (1993), etc 1 oz (24k gold)

R25

31.107

32.69

1/10 oz

R50

3.11

16.50

R1 silver (925)

15.0

3.87(fine silver)

32.70

THE R1 AND R2 COIN SERIES commemorating The San (1998), The Zulu Culture (1999), etc R1 (24k gold)

3.11

16.50

7.777

22.00

ISSUE 29

VALUATION OF GEMS AND JEWELLERY One of the earliest gem valuations can be found in Book 37 of Pliny the Elder’s Historia Naturalis, where he quotes Theophrastus (c 372-287 BC): “A small ring stone, called anthrax (probably a ruby), used to sell for 40 aurei” (about US$205). He also mentioned the value factors for gems (still used today) as beauty, rarity and demand.

• Establishing the scope of the valuation

• How to use price lists

• Take-in and valuation procedures

• Valuation of broken and old cut diamonds

• Handling insurance replacements

• Valuation of coloured gemstones

• How to test for gold karatage

• Describing jewellery

• How to recognise quality in jewellery

• Watches - their valuation and how to spot a fake

• Valuation of pearls and bead necklaces

• Gold coins, valuation and identifying counterfeits

• How to read hallmarks

• Sources and resources • Writing the report

No longer can jewellers scribble a one-line handwritten note to serve as a valuation for the item they have sold or manufactured. Proper professional valuations are required by today’s clients. Such wellpresented valuations will not only lend prestige to your firm, but establish you as a true professional. This chapter will not make you a professional valuator, but will provide the basic information you need to do a proper valuation. Any item you sell or manufacture should be accompanied by a valuation report for insurance purposes.

ESTABLISHING THE SCOPE OF THE VALUATION It is essential to first establish both the purpose and function of the appraisal you are asked to do. For instance, a client may ask for a retail replacement value which he wants to use either for insurance purposes, comparison shopping, bartering or damage assessment. Or he could ask what it is worth, just for his own information. Or he might want to know what the fair market value is, to be used in probate matters, for selling at auction, divorce settlements, donation purposes, or as collateral.

Each of these requirements needs a different approach to the valuation of the item, as well as to the wording on the valuation document. “The whole subject of appraisal of property – it’s not an art and it’s not a science; in my opinion, it’s a mystery.” - US Tax Court Judge Carlisle B Roberts, Astoria, Oregon, June 1974 from Gems and Jewellery Appraisal by A Miller.

ISSUE 29

WHAT IS REPLACEMENT COST? You must be aware that there are different replacement costs - for instance: 1.

Replacement cost normally refers to the retail value at which an identical new item can be obtained.

Replacement cost for a comparable item is normally required when valuating antique jewellery of a similar type, quality and condition, but not necessarily the same item.

Reproduction cost is the current price of manufacturing an exact duplicate item, normally used for custom-designed items or to replace half of a set.

WHAT IS INSURANCE REPLACEMENT VALUE? This is not the price at which you can replace an item from your stock. It is a value based on the most occurring price at which the item can be bought in the retail marketplace, plus a premium of about 25% to accommodate future price increases. Jewellers who have sold an item at a special discounted price may ethically value the item at a higher price, provided the higher value is based on proper market research. Otherwise, it is better to offer your customer a statement of replacement cost, rather than an insurance valuation.

WHAT IS FAIR MARKET VALUE? Fair market value is the price at which the item will change hands between a willing buyer and willing seller, neither being under pressure to buy or sell, and both having reasonable knowledge of the item and its market value. This value is most used for estate valuations, divorce settlements and probate matters.

WHAT IS A LIQUIDATION VALUE? This is what a client should expect if his jewellery has to be sold for cash under forced conditions. This value will be the lowest of all valuations. If the item is unsaleable or irreparably broken, a “scrap value” should be given. This value is based on the price a precious metal refiner will pay for the metal and the price a wholesale dealer will pay for the gems. The auction market provides an indication of liquidation values. Auction catalogues are useful value indicators for

modern and, especially, antique pieces. Remember that the reserve price the auctioneer may offer (ie, the lowest the seller will take) is normally about 80% of the lowest presale catalogue estimated price. The cash that will be raised at auction is not the hammer price, but a lesser amount. The auctioneer’s commission plus VAT could be as high as 15-20% of the hammer price.

WHAT IS A COMPARISON VALUE? Often clients may ask for a value on an item bought elsewhere. Some jewellers will refuse to put a value on such an item. If you value it too highly, the client may think you are too expensive, while if your value is much lower than what the client paid, your colleague will be unhappy with you. Comparison valuation is normally the most common retail replacement value.

WHAT IS AN ESTIMATE TO REPLACE? You may be asked to establish the value of a stolen or lost item which does not have previous documentation. This is a hypothetical valuation based on information supplied by the client, such as a photograph or a verbal description. You can use old catalogues from retailers or your own stock, which will help the client to describe the lost item. The estimate to replace is normally the price at which you can supply an item from your stock and must indicate that it is only an estimate.

WHAT IS A DAMAGE REPORT? When diamonds or gems, or even jewellery, break, the insurance company may want a report indicating the loss suffered due to such breakage. You must take into account the cost of removing, re-cutting and resetting the stone, as well as the goldsmith’s work if the setting has to be changed. The re-cutting cost for diamonds is approximately R500-R600 per carat. Consult a gem-cutter if you do not know how to calculate the weight loss during re-cutting. Information required on a damage report is: • Purpose of the valuation. • Original value of the item. • Current value as a damaged item. • Expected weight loss if re-cut. • Cost of repair to the item. • Value of the item once repaired.

ISSUE 29

TAKE-IN PROCEDURES It is essential that any damage to gems or mountings is indicated to the client and noted on the take-in form. Also that you discuss the quality of the item with the client and even show him the inclusions and how to identify his gems. Make a copy of the gemstone shapes as provided in Par t III, and plot thereon identification marks such as inclusions and/or damages of the gems you are taking in. Assure the client that he will have the oppor tunity to check and identify the item when it is returned.

Refrain from making a positive identification of metal and gemstone, unless you have done a test in front of the client. Describe the item, for example, as: “One white metal ring, stamped 14k, weighing 6 grams (weighed accurately at the time) containing a round facetted stone flanked by two red coloured round facetted stones.” Set a limit of liability in the event of loss (say, R500R2 000) unless your client indicates a higher value on a specific item. Keep a copy of the take-in document.

VALUATION PROCEDURES 1.

Clean the item(s) properly. Take note of the durability of the gems during cleaning.

Describe the item using the correct wording.

Identify and describe the quality of the gems in the item. Plot the inclusions, if possible.

Indicate which equipment and grading system were used to identify the item.

Test the metal fineness.

Determine the mark-up and tax additions to arrive at a valuation as required, ie, fair market value, insurance replacement cost, retail value, probate, etc.

Weigh the item.

Identify the hallmarks.

10. Type the report on your company’s letterhead or specially prepared valuation documents.

Evaluate the method of construction, ie, casted, diestruck, hand-made or a combination.

11. Keep a copy for your records.

HANDLING INSURANCE REPLACEMENTS After the client has purchased an item, he normally presents to his insurer or broker a valuation certificate obtained from his jeweller. The item is normally specified as part of his household items, but states that it will be worn outside of his home. If an item is stolen, the client must file a report with the police before notifying his insurer. If an item is lost or broken, the client must file a claim with the insurer. The insurer or broker will contact the jeweller for a written replacement quote. Insurers normally want to replace the item at a cost of 20-25% below retail and often require the discount to be specified on the quote. If the insurer accepts your quote, he will provide you with a written authorisation to proceed. When the client accepts

the item, he is required to sign on the invoice that he is satisfied with the replacement. Your invoice is then sent to the insurer, indicating any deductions that were paid by the client. Also include your banking details.

INSURANCE QUESTIONS OFTEN ASKED BY CLIENTS •

Why is the insurance value so much more than what I have paid for it?

Because it is a retail replacement value for the future. It is of little value to insure an item for the next few years using its current value. Remember also that insurers normally want a discount of up to 25% off the retail price - because they are bulk buyers, they want to pay a wholesale price.

ISSUE 29

•

Why the confusion and disappointment when items need to be replaced?

The items could have been under-insured and the insurer will apply the principle of average. Insurers are reluctant to make a cash payment and prefer to have the item replaced. Cash payments may lead to all sor ts of hidden agendas. Insurers may insist that a lost item be replaced only by jewellers on their “list”. This is a debatable practice, as the jeweller may lose his client when the insurer demands that another jeweller, in opposition to him, replaces the item.

•

Can old and worn jewellery be insured?

It cannot be expected of insurers to take the risk of insuring a ring with worn-down claws, when a knock tomorrow could send the stone flying. Insurance companies expect a jeweller to issue a report stating that the item was inspected personally and that the gems are held safely, whenever a valuation certificate is updated.

Therefore, never update a valuation certificate without seeing the item. It is in your own interests to indicate in writing when claws are not safe. The insurer may argue that the client was irresponsible in not replacing worn claws and could refuse to replace. Your client will then blame you for not indicating the danger of losing a gem.

•

When a diamond breaks, who pays?

Clients are shocked when they discover that their diamond has split in two or was chipped by a knock that they cannot even remember. They thought it would last forever. A diamond with a very thin girdle or one with a low clarity grade due to cleavages or cracks may split when subjected to a heavy blow. Normally, the insurer will replace the broken diamond at their cost. They will, however, request a damage repor t from the jeweller and the potential value after re-cutting, if that is an option. They will also want the broken pieces returned to them.

CHARGING FOR VALUATION When an item is bought, the jeweller should issue a signed insurance valuation certificate which the client can use if he wishes to insure the article. This is normally done without charge.

If you cannot identify the item and are unable to determine its value, inform the client of this. Offer to send the item for expert identification. Never take a chance on identification - it will come back to haunt you.

When a client requests a valuation for items not bought at your store, you have to inform the client of your fee structure beforehand. It is unethical to charge a fee based on a percentage of the value of the item. A better fee structure is a rate per hour.

Clients should be invited to visit the store in future for a professional cleaning of the item, at which time the jeweller can check the settings, as well as re-issue an updated insurance certificate. Some jewellers provide this service without charge for the first few years after purchase.

HOW TO TEST FOR PRECIOUS METALS A jeweller may find it necessary to identify the metal that an item is made of, or test the gold content of an item if the original hallmark has been removed (during a previous sizing). If you are not sure of its true karatage, it is wise to describe the item as, for example, “stamped 18k”, or “stamped 925”, etc. A precious metal test can be done by: • staining the metal with acids, or • testing a metal streak left on a touchstone.

PREPARING THE SURFACE FOR TESTING The surface of the article to be tested needs to be cleaned with alcohol or acetone to remove traces of lacquer, varnish, etc. An inconspicuous spot must be found on the article where a file can be applied to remove any plating or other surface metal which may be covering the main metal. Two testing acids, ie, diluted nitric acid and aqua regia, are obtainable in glass bottles with a long dropper from jewellery machine suppliers. These acids degenerate over

ISSUE 29

time and need to be replaced regularly. They can be obtained from jewellery machine suppliers or prepared as described below.

HOW TO PREPARE ACID TESTING SOLUTIONS •

•

Nitric acid (HNO3): To a few ccs of water, add an equal amount of concentrated nitric acid, drop by drop (never add water to the acid - it will spur t and may damage your eyes and clothes). Aqua regia: To a few ccs of chemically pure hydrochloric acid (HCl), add half the amount of chemically pure nitric acid. That is, one part HNO3, two parts HCl.

IDENTIFYING THE METAL •

Using test acids

On the exposed surface of the item, a small drop of the testing acid is placed and its reaction with the metal is observed.

•

Using a touchstone

A simple method is available to test the karatage of precious metal items. Testing kits consisting of a black touchstone, a test needle set (metal needles, each with a tip made from a known quality platinum, gold and silver alloy) and glass-stopper bottles containing Glass stopper bottle with acid

Test needle set

various testing acids can be obtained from jewellery machine suppliers. The filed area is rubbed on the touchstone using five or six forward and backward stokes to produce a visible streak on the stone. Next to this, a few millimetres apart, a similar streak is produced by rubbing the tip of one of the test needles in a similar fashion. With the glass stopper rod, place a drop of the testing acid simultaneously on both streaks on the touchstone. Watch the reaction of the two streaks. As the acid dissolves the streaks, the one of lower karatage will disappear first. This process is repeated with another test needle until the streak of the item and that of the test needle disappear simultaneously. This indicates that the karatage of the item is similar to that of the test needle. After each use, the touchstone must be properly cleaned with aqua regia to avoid future confusion.

EFFECT OF NITRIC ACID ON METALS Metal

Visible effect

Gold alloys less than 9k

green bubbles

Gold-plated items

green bubbles

Gold-plated on silver

pinkish-cream reaction

Gold 9k alloy

quick brown stain

Gold 12-14k alloy

slow brown stain

Gold 18k yellow/white

no reaction

Platinum

no reaction

Dental alloy

black stain

Stainless steel

no reaction

Nickel

no discolouration, but leaves blue-green stain on blotting paper

Touchstone Glass stopper

EFFECT OF AQUA REGIA ON METALS AND STAIN LEFT ON BLOTTING PAPER Metal

Effect on metal

Stain on blotting paper

Platinum 18k white 18k white (Pa) 14k white 9k white Palladium Dental alloy Stainless steel Nickel

slight etching, no discolouration stains dark readily no stain stains brown readily stains brown readily no discolouration black stain no stain no stain

no stain bright yellow stain light brown stain faint green stain green stain with yellow tinge dark brownish stain no stain yellowish-brown faint green stain

Ramsden Diamonds stocks a range of certified polished, calibrated smalls and fancy diamonds like salt & peppers, black, cognacs and fancy shapes. Our on-site factory also offers diamond cutting and diamond repairs. We deliver country-wide.

SAJN | LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS

Victoria Gomelsky, Editorin-Chief of JCK magazine, speaks to Avi Levy, North America President for the International Gemological Institute (IGI), about the growth of the lab-grown diamond market. SOME PEOPLE ARE BORN WITH A SILVER spoon in their mouth. Avi Levy was born with a diamond. The son of a diamantaire who had an office on New York’s 47th Street, Levy began his career in the diamond trade the old-fashioned way: Dad called in a favour. “He got me a job working retail on 47th Street,” Levy tells JCK. “This was 1986. The energy, the people, the back and forth, the negotiation, the transactions. I’d go to my dad’s office and hear the yelling, the negotiating. I was in love with the business before I even knew it.” Levy’s love affair with diamonds took him to Belgium to buy rough, Israel to learn the ins and outs of the trade from his cousins and, eventually, to India, as a diamond jewellery manufacturer producing jewels for the majors. In 2019, Levy joined IGI, succeeding its longtime CEO, Jerry Ehrenwald, who left the company to start a lab-grown diamond exchange. At the time, the lab-grown category represented about 15% of IGI’s business, Levy tells JCK. Not quite three years later, that figure is closer to 30%. And growing. Levy spoke to JCK about the growth of the lab-grown diamond market, when he realised it would be a game-changer for the industry, and why he thinks the surge in interest in lab-grown gems has been good for mined diamonds. “I’m an industry guy,” he says. “I grew up in it. I’m a fan of whatever helps our industry grow.” The interview has been edited for length and clarity.

An industry veteran on how lab-grown diamonds are pushing the trade to experiment

Before you joined IGI, what was your impression of the lab-grown market? I saw it as a game-changer and a wake-up call for the industry. I sold natural diamonds, but the creativity part of the industry was waning. We were getting complacent. Retailers became more price-conscious with Indian competition. They didn’t attract new people into the industry. We were kind of floating, if you ask me. Lab-grown came in and shook things up. It was dynamic. But the biggest thing was price. Before, it was too expensive. I saw it as a game-

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS | SAJN changer because it gave the consumer another option to buy a different type of diamond jewellery, but I knew there was a long road ahead. And also that we’d need to teach everybody what it is, why it is and what the benefits are for the consumer. When did you notice the tide turning in favour of lab-grown? Probably 2017. A good friend who bought from India went the other way: he stopped natural and only did lab-grown. Actually two companies did that. One was selling small sizes – they

were major traders for natural and literally stopped one day and started doing lab-grown the next. We had a lot of questions because the price was too expensive. But in terms of a value proposition, it was amazing. What changes have you seen on the labgrown side since you joined IGI in 2019? So many. The technology is improving. You’ve got a base of growers who’re interested in furthering the technology. They’re looking at how to grow better, cleaner, larger and how to grow consistent. A lot of guys want to rush to market, get their product out. But that means stopping the growth process a few days earlier, which affects the quality or colour. I see customisation coming in: “I want 100 stones of a certain size and colour” – and some companies have capacities to do that. We’ve seen crosses come from a single diamond crystal. Another manufacturer did a pink cross. I’ve got a blue hamsa hand that he did and a can-

nabis leaf. People are thinking: “What else can I do?” It goes back to the creativity. The labgrown companies have motivated the industry to reawaken, to energise. My experience gives me more of a view to see the market. And it’s growing in all price points. How do you see the two markets – natural and lab-grown – co-existing in the future? Lab-grown has done its job. Natural is on fire. Not just the pricing, but the desire and want for natural diamonds is growing. We see it as a lab, in the units coming through. Retailers and manufacturers are coming up with new programmes and ideas. I say to people: “We’re still in the third or fourth inning.” When we started with labgrown, we were like babies. Today we’re sweet 16. We still have a long way to go. – Republished with permission from JCK Online (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/ lab-grown-diamond-experiments/)

Lab-grown has done its job. Natural is on fire. Not just the pricing, but the desire and want for natural diamonds is growing. We see it as a lab, in the units coming through. SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

DID YOU KNOW? | SAJN

Interesting facts 1

Only in the last century did diamonds become readily available. Prior to that, ruby and sapphire were the most popular gems, especially for engagement rings.

Deep shapes like cushions and princess cut diamonds frequently carry more weight in the body than round brilliants, so they will look physically smaller from the top.

Kimberlite pipes were first found near Kimberley in South Africa, but since then they have been found on most continents. Not all kimberlite pipes are created equal and only a small percentage of them contain diamonds.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

A recent discovery indicates that some stars collapse on themselves, creating giant diamond crystals. In the constellation Centaurus, there lies a white dwarf that has crystallised into a diamond about 2 500 miles in diameter and weighing 10 billion, trillion, trillion carats.

If you prefer yellow gold or rose gold settings, your centre diamond stone will appear warmer than its designated colour grade. In contrast, white gold or platinum settings will enhance the cool tones of your centre stone.

A study conducted by a chemistry professor at the University of St Andrews, Wuzong Zhou, found there were about 1,5 million diamond nanoparticles in a candle flame.

Gemmologically speaking, diamond is a mineral with a chemical formula of C (carbon) that crystallises in the isometric system. By comparison, the mineral graphite also has the chemical formula of C. However, it crystallises in the hexagonal system and has very different properties.

Most diamonds have a unique combination of inclusions and blemishes. These clarity characteristics act like fingerprints, giving each diamond its own identity.

Invented by the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in 1902, the Asscher cut did not gain popularity until the Art Deco era in the 1920s. This diamond is one of the very first patented diamond cuts in the world.

SAJN | DIAMOND CUTS WHILE MOST GRADING LABORATORIES PREFER to use their own terminology in describing and evaluating the quality of a diamond’s cut, they base their assessment on the same parameters, which are the visual appearance of the stone, value aspects and the cutter’s craft. VISUAL APPEARANCE This is due to a combination of three optical effects: 1. Brightness, ie the total reflection of white light. 2. Fire, ie flashes of colour. 3. Scintillation, ie the twinkling of areas of light and dark. 1. Brightness This is mainly determined by the stone’s depth percentage, table percentage, its crown angle and its pavilion angle. The latter two proportions, with its girdle thickness, determine the stone’s depth percentage. These parameters are measured or estimated as follows: • Depth percentage This is calculated by dividing the average diameter of a round stone by its depth, or the width of a fancy shaped diamond by its depth. This percentage normally varies from 58-60%. • Table diameter percentage This parameter is measured with a calibrated microgauge under magnification. The largest table measurement is divided by the average diameter. Opinion differs as to the ideal table percentages – 56-62% is normally acceptable. A quicker method is by observing the bowing of the line running from the point of one star facet along the table edge to the point of another star facet. • Crown angle and height The higher the crown, the greater the crown angle. Most diamonds have crown angles of 30-35˚. Diamonds with crown angles less than 30˚ can be quite brilliant, but normally have extremely thin girdles which are susceptible to damage. Crown angles are estimated by looking at the profile of the table and bezel facets and estimating the angle. The crown height is measured by a calibrated microgauge and is expressed as a percentage of the diameter. • Pavilion depth percentage This is expressed as a percentage of average girdle diameter and can be judged visually, or measured and calculated.

Evaluating the cut of a diamond Diamond grading laboratories employ a computerised optical instrument to measure the proportions and assign a cut grade to polished diamonds. With practice, a jeweller can estimate a diamond’s proportions and evaluate its cut by using a variety of visual observations. Pavilion depth normally varies from 41-45%. In stones with a pavilion depth of 40% and less (a shallow pavilion), an unattractive, greyish reflection of the girdle can be seen under the table. This is called a fish-eye effect. It renders the stone lifeless and dull. When the pavilion is too deep, the diamond will be dark in the centre. This is called a nailhead. An incorrect pavilion depth also negatively affects the fire of a diamond.

Irregular table

Naturals on crown and pavilion

Wavy girdle

Crown and pavilion not aligned

Table and girdle not parallel Facets do not meet in point

Culet off-centre

Girdle outline not a perfect circle

(Above): Symmetry characteristics in round brilliant cuts.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

DIAMOND CUTS | SAJN “extremely” or “very thin”, “thin”, “medium”, “slightly thick” or “extremely thick”. A very thin girdle can break, affecting durability, while a very thick girdle will make the stone look smaller than it should and could create fuzzy, grey reflections in the stone.

(Above, from left): Culet and pavilion facet abrasion and polishing scratch marks.

2. Fire The flashes of colour you see in a diamond are called its fire and are the result of white light being dispersed into its various spectral colours. Fire is difficult to assess, especially in small stones, and is best seen under a spotlight. The more colour flashes, the better. 3. Scintillation The flashes of light and the contrasting areas of darkness that constantly change (sparkle) as the light source, the observer or the diamond is moved are called its scintillation. The quality of scintillation is determined by a combination of the stone’s sparkle and the pattern which the contrasting dark and light areas form. The dark areas are normally areas of light leakage (loss) or reflections of dark objects near the stone. The pattern of flashes should be spread evenly and balanced over the face of the stone and the contrast between dark areas and bright

(Above left): Brightness under fluorescent light – excellent. (Above right): Brightness under fluorescent light – many dark areas, poor brightness.

Ideal proportions

“Spread” stone with extremely thin girdle.

“Lumpy” stone with very thick girdle.

flashes should be crisp. Scintillation is best seen under fluorescent light. The brightness, fire and scintillation are individually assessed and each described as either “excellent”, “very good”, “good”, “fair” or “poor”. VALUE ASPECTS 1. Weight ratio A diamond’s physical dimensions in relation to its weight are an indication of whether it was made “heavier” by fashioning a too-thick girdle, a very large culet or incorrect crown and pavilion angles. “Heavy” stones thus look lumpy and face up smaller than those with the correct weight ratio. On the other hand, a “spread” stone looks bigger than it should and normally has a very thin girdle that makes it vulnerable to damage. The prices of spread or lumpy stones are thus adjusted downwards. 2. Girdle thickness This is expressed as a percentage of the depth measurements and is normally described as

3. Culet size Most fancy cuts have culets, while round brilliants may not. The purpose of the culet is to protect the bottom of the stone against abrasion. It is visually estimated and normally described as “none”, “small”, “medium”, “large”, “very large” or “abraded”. THE CUTTER’S CRAFT This parameter comprises two factors – polish and symmetry – and gives an indication of the care and skill with which the cutter manufactured the final product. 1. The polish The polish is described and graded as “excellent”, “very good”, “good”, “fair” or “poor”. Obvious polish lines on several facets will result in a fair grade, while the presence of only faint polish lines in an inconspicuous place will give a good grade. An abraded culet, bearded girdle, pits on the surface and a very rough girdle are other aspects that could influence the clarity or polish grade of a diamond. 2. The symmetry The symmetry is also graded as “excellent”, “very good”, “good”, “fair” or “poor”. This gives an indication of how symmetrically the facets are aligned in the cut stone. Aspects such as an off-centre culet or table, a wavy girdle or a large difference between minimum and maximum diameters will influence the symmetry.

Grading laboratories base their assessment on describing and evaluating the quality of a diamond’s cut on the same parameters, which are the visual appearance of the stone, value aspects and the cutter’s craft. SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

SAJN | JEWELLERY DESIGN

(Above): Irma Stern Dakar Woman.

SA auction house captures the essence of art through jewellery Through Strauss & Co’s collaboration with renowned jewellery designer Mahak Kala of Panchoo London, the local auction house is marrying Mahak’s expertise in jewellery with its expertise in art. STRAUSS & CO HAS DEVELOPED A DESERVED REPUtation as one of South Africa’s top auction houses. In early March, in a first for the country, the new Strauss & Co Shop successfully launched by débuting a collaboration with gemmologist and jewellery designer Taz Watson. The Strauss & Co Shop offers jewellery, art and objects available for immediate purchase online outside of the regular Strauss & Co auction calendar. Items sold through the shop are available for a limited time and exclusively on a pop-up basis and are carefully selected and curated by Strauss & Co’s team of specialists. Hot on the heels of the launch, Strauss & Co’s Senior Art Specialist Kirsty Colledge and Watson have paired eight pieces of jewellery by designer Mahak Kala, available to purchase only through the Strauss & Co Shop, with eight

(Above and right): Tanzanite and black spinel 18k gold dress ring earrings. (Left): Pair of Brazilian cuprian (Paraiba) tourmaline 18k gold earrings

(Above, from top): Pink tanzanite (zoisite) and 18k gold dress ring and pair of tanzanite and tsavorite 18k gold earrings.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

JEWELLERY DESIGN | SAJN pieces of modern, post-war and contemporary South African art that were available through Strauss & Co’s first live auction on 6 April. This singular union of fine art and jewellery offers a tantalising taste of what clients will soon be able to experience for themselves: the opportunity to work with Kala by commissioning him to design a once-off item of jewellery inspired by a piece of fine art purchased through Strauss & Co. “Kala’s pieces evoke the richness of the East and the wonder of Africa,” says the auction house. “He’s part of a family of leading gem-cutters based in India who go back for generations and has worked on jewellery for some of the world’s leading fashion houses. Glittering yellow diamonds, emerald-cut aquamarines and Paraiba tourmalines pay homage to the countries that Kala and his family called home for over 30 years. His pieces are fashion-forward, but also exhibit rare and unusual cuts and combinations of gemstones that speak to his heritage and history.” The idea of combining art with jewellery, says Bina Genovese, Strauss and Co’s joint MD, is a tribute to the passion that ignites Strauss & Co’s clients when they set their sights on a piece of art they love. “It’s what makes working in this environment so exciting.” says Genovese. “We work very closely with serious collectors. One of our goals is to match the best artworks with the collector, so once a collector has pursued and purchased an artwork, they can work with Mahak to create a beautiful item of jewellery inspired by it. You get to wear your art. It becomes a conversation piece at a dinner party.” “Mahak is very talented” says Vanessa Philips, Strauss & Co’s joint MD. “He’s won multiple awards and designed top international showpieces. Through this collaboration, we’re marrying his expertise in jewellery with Strauss & Co’s expertise in art.” A visionary creative endeavour that embodies Strauss & Co’s bold union of fine art and jewellery was unveiled at the live auction of modern, post-war and contemporary art, decorative arts, furniture, jewellery and wine held from 3-6 April. Colledge’s and Watson’s selection of eight works by lauded local artists such as Maggie Laubser, Irma Stern, Dr Esther Mahlangu and Alexis Preller were photographed with Jo-Ann Strauss, who jumped at the chance to don the pieces designed by Kala that

(Above): Rubellite and turquoise 18k white gold necklace. (Left): Pierre Vermeulen Hair Orchid Sweat Print Verdigris Layer No 2.

Colledge and Watson felt most appropriately connected with each of the artworks. Strauss, a philanthropist, brand ambassador, host and former Miss SA, was shot in gorgeous garments designed by some of South Africa’s leading couturiers, in tones and textures sympathetic to the sparkling gems she was wearing and the palette of vibrant colours in each of the paintings.

Frank Kilbourn, Chairperson of Strauss & Co, is enthusiastic about the fusion of jewellery, art and fashion that the photographs represent. He believes that connecting three different creative expressions is testament to the power of art, which allows us to see connections we might not otherwise have noticed. “We’re bringing artwork to life,” he says. “We’re trying to capture its essence through jewellery. It’s a celebration of aesthetics and creativity. We’re linking different forms of art.” These powerful photographs will give Strauss & Co’s clients a true sense of the endless creative possibilities arising out of jewellery designed in conjunction with their beloved artworks. As every piece is hand-crafted, they will only be available for a limited time. (Below): Erik Laubscher Winter Ploughed Lands, Swaarmoed.

These powerful photographs will give Strauss & Co’s clients a true sense of the endless creative possibilities arising out of jewellery designed in conjunction with their beloved artworks. SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

SAJN | MENTORSHIP PROGRAMME

Team SA Jewellery News attended the Rand Refinery Enterprise Development: Silver Mentorship Programme Graduation held on 18 March at the refinery in Germiston, Gauteng.

ED graduates celebrated

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

MENTORSHIP PROGRAMME | SAJN ON THE DAY, FIRST PRIZE WAS AWARDED to Elegante Jewellers, second prize to Isa B Jewellery Designs and third prize to Chiedza Jewellery Creations. “Having been at the launch of the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project’s 2021 graduate ‘intake’, we were extremely proud and excited to see just how far and successful the 18 SMMEs making up the class of 2021 had come,” said Jason Aarons, Publishing Director of Isikhova Media, publisher of SAJN, Jewellery Biz-News and JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine. Keynote speakers included Vishogen Moodley, Manager: Supply Chain, Rand Refinery, Dean Subramanian, CFO: Rand Refinery; Cecil Khosa, CEO: SA Diamonds & Precious Metals Regulator (SADPMR), Samuel Manyisa, Centre Manager: EJP and Nqibile Nkosi, MD of NQ Jewellery. Programme Director Treasure (Tshabalala) Nkosi – veteran radio presenter and actor who now forms part of Hot FM’s presenter line-up – added to the event with his unique flair and enthusiasm. When Rand Refinery first partnered with the SADPMR, NQ Jewellers and the Ekurhuleni Jewellery Project to get the programme off the ground, its objective was to provide business development support, mentorship and other assistance to 18 historically disadvantaged SMMEs which have registered start-up companies. The vision was to create a platform from which they could springboard their business by equipping each of them with the skills and tools necessary. Through the programme, every SMME was provided with a R100 000 interest-free silver loan and a 12-month mentorship programme. “Our main goal for this programme was to provide much-needed financial and technical assistance, marketing and sales mentorship, thereby creating jobs and developing the downstream jewellery manufacturing industry,” said Subramanian. “While I must firstly thank our partners for believing in the vision of doing more and changing lives, it’s also important to celebrate the tenacity and drive of every single person involved in this project – from the dedicated, focused and passionate entrepreneurs and business-owners to my own dedicated staff. The past 18 months haven’t been easy, but they’ve all rolled up their sleeves to make a difference. I thank you all for keeping the flag flying high.”

Rand Refinery reiterated that it remains fully committed to the initiative, together with its partners and the current ED graduates, providing both sales and marketing mentorship and technical training to the new intake of ED candidates. Over the past year, the SADPMR has demonstrated a keen interest in investing in and supporting entrepreneurs who exhibit the drive and ambition to start their own businesses. “I’m inspired by the success and achievement of all the business-owners,” said Khosa. “As the SADPMR, we know that more can be achieved if we partner with others. As government, together with our partners in the private sector, we have an ability to effect a great deal of change, while contributing to the sustainability of small businesses through guiding and encouraging them to take charge of their own development. “I believe we can all agree that small businesses are an essential contributor towards a healthy economy. These businesses create a competitive environment, provide vital employment opportunities and revitalise our communities even through the most challenging times. At SADPMR, we believe that enterprise development is one of the most effective ways of

delivering sustainable, broad-based economic growth in local economies. It’s the best way of empowering people by giving them access to the essential skills to better their lives. Further to this, delivering great business opportunities to high-potential entrepreneurs enables businesses to become meaningful enterprises that create jobs and develop much-needed skills.”

“The Jewellery Village” launched “The Jewellery Village” store at Montecasino in Fourways, northern Johannesburg, officially opened on 15 April. Its launch was announced by Vishogen Moodley, Manager: Supply Chain, Rand Refinery at the Rand Refinery Enterprise Development: Silver Mentorship Programme Graduation. The store was established in conjunction with Tsogo Sun and forms part of the programme’s commitment to provide market access to the class of 2021. All SMMEs from the graduation class are given first preference to sell their unique jewellery at the store.

Our main goal for this programme was to provide much-needed financial and technical assistance, marketing and sales mentorship, thereby creating jobs and developing the downstream jewellery manufacturing industry. SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

BOOKINGS OPEN FOR SPRING/SUMMER EDITION

For more information or to book your space, contact: Ruwayda Mahomed / 011 883 4627 / ruwayda@isikhova.co.za

THE BIRTHSTONE FOR MAY | SAJN

The world’s most popular green gem Emerald, the birthstone for May, has been beloved for millennia, evoking rebirth and renewal. From the poetic description of Ireland as “the Emerald Isle” to the vibrant green of the famed gemstone itself, the May birthstone emerald has captured hearts and minds through the ages. VARIATIONS OF THIS RICH GREEN COLOUR suggest soothing, lush gardens. Legend has it that emerald has the power to make its wearer more intelligent and quick-witted and it was once believed to cure diseases like cholera and malaria. Today, it is the gemstone given for the 20th and 35th wedding anniversaries. From Egyptian pharaohs to Incan emperors, emerald has enchanted royalty. Cleopatra was known to have a passion for emerald and used it in her royal adornments. The legendary Crown of the Andes, fashioned in colonial South America, is one example of how the Spanish revered the May birthstone. According to lore, its largest stone – now called the Atahualpa emerald – was taken from the last Inca emperor, Atahualpa, by conquistador Francisco Pizarro. The emerald and gold treasures recovered from the sunken 17th century Spanish galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha represent a small fraction of the colonial riches sent to Spain from the New World.

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

The word “emerald” comes from “smaragdos”, ancient Greek for “a green gem”. Roman author Pliny the Elder, who died in the 79 CE eruption of Mt Vesuvius, wrote in his encyclopaedic Natural History that “nothing greens greener”. He also stated that the May birthstone had therapeutic properties that helped gem-cutters: “[They] have no better method of restoring their eyes than by looking at the emerald, its soft, green colour comforting and removing their weariness and lassitude.” Science now proves this belief: the colour green relieves stress and eye strain. The green birthstone was also thought to have magical powers. By placing it under the tongue, one could see into the future. Some believed it made one an eloquent speaker and exposed lovers who made false promises. Colombia has been the source of the finest emeralds for more than 500 years and Colombian emeralds are the standard by which all others are measured. Three mining sites in Colombia are particularly noteworthy: Muzo, Chivor and Coscuez. Each locality produces a range of colours but, generally speaking, darker tones of pure green emeralds come from Muzo. Emeralds which are lighter in tone and slightly bluish-green are associated with Chivor. Slightly yellowishgreen emeralds are unearthed in Coscuez. The May birthstone is also found in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil. One of the most productive sites for the green birthstone is the sophisticated Belmont mine. Capoeira is another important locality, a rugged region worked largely by independent miners and small-scale operations. It can also be found in Africa. Zambia is a major source and mines in the Ndola Rural

Restricted Area are known for producing emeralds that are bluish-green and darker in tone. Pakistan and Afghanistan are important producers as well. Emerald ranks 7,5-8 on the Mohs scale of hardness, so it is more susceptible to scratching than a diamond, which ranks 10 on the scale. It is often treated to improve its colour or clarity. Common treatment methods include: • Dyeing: Paler emeralds with multiple fractures may be dyed green to enhance their colour. • Fracture-filling: Oils, waxes and artificial resins are often used to fill surface-reaching fractures in emeralds. The goal is to reduce the visibility of the fractures and improve the apparent clarity. The volume of filler material present can range from minor to significant; the different substances have varying degrees of stability. The emerald birthstone requires some special care: avoid exposure to heat, changes in air pressure (such as in an airline cabin) and harsh chemicals. Never put an emerald in an ultrasonic cleaner, as the vibrations and heat can cause the filler to sweat out of fractures. Filled emeralds can also be damaged by exposure to hot water used for washing dishes. The safest way to clean emeralds is by gently scrubbing them with a soft brush and warm, soapy water.

Information courtesy of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Established in 1931, the GIA is an independent non-profit that protects the gem- and jewellery-buying public through research, education and laboratory services.

SAJN | LITTLE GEMS

A stone of many colours CHALCEDONY REFERS TO A LARGE GROUP of translucent or opaque mineral forms, generally with a single colour. One of these stones is jasper (meaning “spotted or speckled stone”), which is essentially a hard rock and occurs in many colours. Despite being considered as chalcedony, jasper has been put in a group by itself within the quartz group by scientists because of its grainy structure. Its name has been derived from the Greek and it has also been accredited to Old French, Latin and even Italian. In ancient times, jasper referred to a completely different stone, which was green. In more modern times, it has been associated with pink and light red and it is an opaque rock, its colour emanating from

Little Gems is one of SAJN’s favourite pages in the magazine. Penned by our beloved editorial doyenne, the late Alice Weil, it will still continue to weave its magic with flair and with the unyielding love Alice had for jewellery, gemstones and watches.

the mineral sediments of volcanic ash. It can be multi-coloured, often striped and its different versions have been given various names according to colour, appearance, composition and the geographical localities where it is found – eg, the brown variety is known as “brown Egyptian jasper”. Finely grained dense jasper contains up to 20% of foreign materials which determine its colour, streak and appearance. Uniformly coloured jasper is rarely striped or flamed. Its patterns arise from the deposition in the original silicarich sediments of volcanic ash. Sometimes it may be grown together with opal or agate and there is also a fossilised version. The stone is found in crevices or fissures, in modules. It is used for ornamental objects,

in cabochons when used in jewellery and in stone mosaics. The pink to light red version found in Australia is cloudy and whitish-grey in Germany’s Rhineland, where – dyed with blue – it serves as “German lapis” or “Swiss lapis”, an imitation of lapis lazuli. The red variety is due to iron inclusions. The Egyptian stone is strongly yellow and red, while agate jasper is yellow, brown or green-blended when grown together with agate. A finely-grained black version is used by jewellers and goldsmiths for streak tests of precious metals. Care must be taken in cutting and polishing banded jasper, which tends to separate along the layers. Chalcedony is one of the most important jewellery and ornamental stones of all

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

LITTLE GEMS | SAJN time. It has been a favourite of hobbyists and professional jewellers because of its abundance and affordability. The name is technically applied to all varieties of quartz in cryptocrystalline, occurring in a wide variety of forms, colours, sizes and patterns. Individual names are traded under agate, cornelian and the aforementioned jasper. Chalcedony was recently discovered to be a combination of quartz and another silicate mineral – morganite. When it comes to hardness of jewellery, gemstone quartz measures 7 on the Mohs scale. Some varieties can exhibit a glow, which seems to come from within, with the stone taking on an excellent polish because it is durable. It is a most significant material, quite easy to distinguish from others. The most popular shapes are oval, round and cushion, and sometimes hearts and flowers. As beads, they can be tumbled and drilled, owing to their durability. Jasper is generally left untreated and unenhanced. It is quite porous, which allows it to be dyed easily to imitate other gemstones, or to replicate a particular variety of itself. Yet another variety of banded chalcedony which is found in various regions in the world is onyx, which differs only in the form of the bands. Agate and onyx are both layered varieties of this, with agate having curved bands and onyx having parallel ones. The colours of these bands vary from white to almost every other colour, except for certain shades of purple or blue. Common specimens of onyx are black and/or white, formed in bands of alternating colours. Artificial onyx types have been formed from common chalcedony and from plain agates and were used in Roman times. Treatments for

SA JEWELLERY NEWS - MAY 2022

Chalcedony is one of the most important jewellery and ornamental stones of all time. It has been a favourite of hobbyists and professional jewellers because of its abundance and affordability.

forming black or other colours include soaking or boiling chalcedony in sugar solutions, then treating it with hydrochloric acid to carbonise sugars which have been absorbed into the top layers of the stone. These techniques are still used, together with other dyeing treatments and most so-called “black onyx” sold today is artificially treated. Treatments with nitric acid have also been used to lighten or eliminate other undesirable colours. Onyx has a long history of use in hardstone carvings and jewellery, the latter generally cut into cabochons or beads, as well as for cameo-engraved gems where the bands make the image contrast with the background. Some onyx is natural, but much of the material made in commerce is produced by the staining of agate. Onyx was used in Egypt in the Second Dynasty to make bowls and other pottery items. The ancient Romans carried amulets of a variety of onyx into battle, engraved with Mars, the god of war. Brazilian green onyx was often used for plinths for Art Deco sculptures of the 1920s and 1930s, as well as for trays

and pin dishes produced mainly in Austria. Renaissance Europeans believed that a certain variety bestowed eloquence. More recently, the Hôtel de la Parva in Paris is known for its yellow onyx décor.

Forever and always, our “Little Gem” ALICE WEIL 14 March 1919 – 17 July 2020

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JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

AURUM DESIGN Tel no: 021 423 6590 E-mail: aurum@worldonline.co.za; adela@aurumdesign.co.za Website: www.aurumdesign.co.za

ADELE’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 595 3868/083 227 6550 E-mail: adele@amj.co.za ADJANI SCHOEMAN T/A ADJANI DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 083 460 7334 E-mail: info@adjani.co.za Website: www.adjani.co.za AFRICAN TRADE BEADS JEWELLERY COLLECTION Tel no: 082 905 1736 / 011 726 7643 E-mail: tamiko@zazenconsulting.com Website: https://www.atbjc.com/about-us/ AKAPO JEWELS Tel no: 011 038 3130 E-mail: wumba@akapo.co.za; labi@akapo.co.za Website: www.akapojewels.co.za ALBO VAN DYK MANUFACTURING Tel no: 044 873 0567 E-mail: albo@telkomsa.net Website: http://www.albovandyk.com/ ALL BLING CREATIONS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 079 744 0971 E-mail: allblingcreations00@gmail.com; mmeshi.nkadimeng@gmail.com ALLOY JEWELLERY GALLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 073 92 45254 E-mail: edna@alloygallery.co.za Website: www.alloygallery.co.za ALTIN JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 998 0141 E-mail: info@altin.co.za Website: www.altin.co.za AMBER & FORGE (PTY) LTD T/A SCHERMANS Tel: 072 928 0385 E-mail: info@schermans.co.za AMBIGO JEWELLERS Tel: 062 282 6924 E-mail: ntobekobasil@gmail.com ANACZYNSKI JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 934 5682 E-mail: anaczynski@gmail.com Website: www.anaczynski.co.za ANASTASIA JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 507 5561 E-mail: bazil.heeralall@gmail.com Website: www.anastasiajewellers.co.za ANDREAS SALVER MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 706 6828 E-mail: andreas@andreassalver.com Website: www.andreassalver.com ANNA ROSHOLT JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 061 080 6481 Email: anna@annarosholt.com ANNELLE MURRAY GOUDSMID Tel no: 082 956 7747 E-mail: annellemurray@exclusivemail.co.za ANTONICORNELLIS JEWELLERY ENTERPRISE Tel no: 074 758 1014 E-mail: antonicornellius.nhlapo@gmail.com ASHOK JEWELLERS DESIGNERS & MANUFACTURERS Tel: 031 566 5046 E-mail: info@ashokjewellers.co.za; 5665046@gmail.com ASSIQUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 706 3629 E-mail: hashiem@telkomsa.net AU TRADERS AND REFINERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 7607/8 E-mail: barend@autraders.co.za; jacqui@autraders.co.za Website: www.autraders.co.za AUGENTA JEWELLERS Tel: 021 883 8288 E-mail: dylan@augenta.com

AURUM MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 475 7891 E-mail: info@aurummanufacturing.co.za; oliver@aurummanufacturing.co.za; karina@aurummanufacturing.co.za AUTHOR BY KATHLYN ALLAN Tel no: 084 247 0358 E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS RIVERSIDE LIFESTYLE CENTRE Tel: 013 757 0827 E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS VALLEY HYPER Tel: 013 757 0827 E-mail: Ron@aztecjewellers.com Website: www.aztecjewellers.com BEADZ BY FLEX Tel no: 083 967 3264 E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 885 8303 E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za Website: www.beaudell.co.za BEAUTIFUL SELECTION (PTY) LTD Tel no: 072 658 0166 E-mail: admin@beautifulselection.co.za Website: www.beautifulselection.co.za BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 072 056 2156 E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com Website: www.ben-codesigns.com BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE Tel no: 032 586 0889 E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/ BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 450 4320 E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery.international Website: https://www.bijoujewellery.international/ BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY Tel: 079 560 5064 E-mail: info@bokook.co.za BRADLEY MANUFACTURING T/A VARGA MANUFACTURING Tel no: 011 327 7926 E-mail: bradjew@mweb.co.za BRAND ATHENA A Tel: 072 272 3089 E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za BRETTLAND POULSEN DESIGNER GOLDSMITH Tel no: 031 562 8009 E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com Website: www.brettlands.co.za BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO Tel no: 011 616 5328 E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com BRONSKI JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 852 7891 E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE – WORKSHOP Tel no: 011 438 7920 E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com Website: www.brownsjewellers.com BULLION STAR (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 202 5021 E-mail: bullionstr@gmail.com CAPE DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 421 5364 E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za Website: www.capediamonds.co.za CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 021 460 3632

E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za Website: www.cput.ac.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 551 2066 E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN Tel no: 031 303 5402 E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 334 6263 E-mail: tom@cpmjhb.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – PORT ELIZABETH Tel no: 041 365 1890 E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC Tel no: 041 992 4421 E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM Tel no: 051 507 4044 E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za Website: www.cut.ac.za CHANDLER’S MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 781 0303 E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za CHARL DE BEER Tel no: 012 440 7693 E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD Tel: 083 557 3252 E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA Tel no: 021 975 5097 E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za CHATEAU D’OR CC Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723 E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com COLLEGE OF CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 464 3821 E-mail: calbrechts@cct.edu.za; eoosthuizen@cct.edu.za Website: http://www.cct.edu.za/ CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 599 5919 E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 031 563 3987 E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com D FABRIK (PTY) LTD Tel: 011 327 7926 E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 334 8841 E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH Tel no: 023 342 7808 E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC Tel no: 021 880 1026 E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za DANIYAL GOLD JEWELLERS Tel no: 073 797 4460 E-mail: daniyalgoldjewellers@gmail.com Website: www.daniyalgold.com DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612 E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za DC JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 691 3692 E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 3182

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com DEON SMITH JEWELLERY Tel: 083 454 2161 E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST Tel no: 043 726 2291 E-mail: info@designergold.co.za Website: https://www.designergold-el.co.za/ DIA-KIM DIAMONDS T/A CHRISTOPHER REID Tel no: 021 418 4484 E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za Website: http://www.christopherreid.co.za/ DIAMANTE ANTWERP Tel: 072 830 5656 E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com DIAMONDS4EVER Tel no: 082 786 7677 E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za DIDIDESIGN Tel no: 011 784 0369 E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za Website: www.dididesign.co.za DLR JEWELLERS Tel: 057 101 0359 E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za DR ESME SPICER Tel no: 073 239 9983 E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 031 373 6673/6 E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za Website: www.dut.ac.za ECO CHIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 553 0332 E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 072 636 0213 E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT Tel no: 011 825 5822 E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za Website: www.ejewellery.org.za ELEMENTAL STUDIO Tel no: 084 507 7777 E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 557 5190 E-mail: info@ember.co.za Website: www.ember.co.za

FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 787 6120 E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com

FERROS JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 363 1881 E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

IMPILO COLLECTION Tel no: 010 0210441 E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES Tel no: 021 511 6237 E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za Website: www.finegold.co.za

INFACET Tel no: 082 878 4949 E-mail: bridgette@infacet.co.za Website: www.infacet.co.za

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS Tel no: 031 564 9006 E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERY DESIGNER & MANUFACTURER Tel no: 073 271 3789 E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

FRANKLI WILD Tel no: 011 483 2620 E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com Website: www.frankliwild.com G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC Tel no: 021 555 1437 E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC Tel no: 011 334 5919 E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 011 852 2046 E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

J HIND JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 306 1330 E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 753 3304 E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

JAGGATH JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 307 7790 E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

GEM AFRIQUE Tel no: 062 050 6479 E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 021 715 6178 E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com Website: https://janinebinneman.com/

GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY Tel: 021 914 0838 E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY Tel no: 082 337 6428 E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD Tel no: 084 360 6762 E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za Website: www.goldandi.co.za GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 021 931 1319 E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN Tel no: 082 674 4410 E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za GRYPHON MOSS Tel: 082 049 2488 E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za

JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF Tel no: 051 444 3449 E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY Tel no: 083 581 1513 E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za JOHANNA VAN ZYL Tel no: 082 778 5846 E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za JOHN STEDMAN T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN Tel no: 031 572 2902 E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP Tel no: 046 624 3748 E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net

ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES Tel no: 031 824 9427 E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com

HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD Tel: 072 587 0055 E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za

JONNERLEE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 728 6800 E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za; info@thejeweller.co.za Website: www.thejeweller.co.za

EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 083 578 7447 E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com Website: www.eonhoon.com

HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS Tel no: 041 581 1942 E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za Website: www.havilah.co.za

JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 662 2861 E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/

ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 021 851 8120 E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net

HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN Tel no: 064 915 4282 E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com

ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 018 290 5722/3 E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com Website: www.eternityenterprise.com

HELEN MICHALETOS Tel: 082 342 1577 E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com

JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 067 397 6373 E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/

EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 3402 E-mail: a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za

HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE Tel: 082 855 9088 E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY Tel: 079 477 2729 E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

FACET JEWELLERY Tel no: 073 397 8820 E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za

ICKINGER JEWELLERS Tel no: 015 307 4448 E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za Website: www.ickinger.co.za

FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 671 5529 E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com

iKE YKE Tel: 083 225 0425 E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

K2 DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 031 940 1274 E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za KARLIEN DESIGNS CC Tel no: 083 659 2607 E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO Tel no: 033 386 7872 E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC Tel: 082 451 9429 E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

KAYRO JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 585 4842 E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

E-mail: mambudesign@mweb.co.za; mambuorders@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN Tel: 083 350 2737 E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 641 2724 E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

KHONJE DESIGNS Tel: 012 460 1569 E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

MARINE GOLD CC Tel no: 021 424 0077 E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 021 531 9082 E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 041 368 4582/3 E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

KINKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 786 1549 E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE Tel: 011 825 5822 E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com KRISTEN MALAN CC Tel no: 011 880 1866 E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 001 6284 E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za LADY PECULIAR Tel no: 021 886 8868 E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za LAMBO DIAMONDS Tel no: 081 743 9255 E-mail: christian@lambodiamonds.com Website: www.lambodiamonds.com L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 883 4021 E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS Tel no: 076 586 3820 E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC Tel no: 021 887 1655 E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR Tel: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 967 1700 E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za LOTTI JEWELLERY Tel: 079 386 1079 E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 011 882 3272 E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH Tel no: 083 271 6065 E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/ MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS Tel: 0727167632 E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com MASELESELE JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 734 0245 E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za Website: www.imfundiso.com MD INDIVIDUALLY DESIGNED HANDCRAFTED JEWELLERY T/A MICHAEL’S DESIGNS Tel no: 011 465 6446 E-mail: michael@michaelsdesigns.co.za Website: www.michaeldesigns.co.za

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 012 329 9600 E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 384 7792 E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za Website: www.nilu.co.za/ NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN Tel: 079 891 7240 E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO Tel no: 012 332 5850 E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/ NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES Tel no: 073 700 6225 E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za NV DESIGN COMPANY T/A BY NANETTE Tel no: 021 883 3856 E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com Website: www.bynanette.com ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 480 9860 E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com Website: www.oroafrica.com

MERAKI JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 082 574 6043 E-mail: megan@merakijewellerydesign.com Website: www.merakijewellerydesign.com

OSMOND’S Tel no: 021 559 8277 E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN Tel no: 021 510 0770 E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION Tel no: 012 000 4440 E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN E-mail: info@metcon.co.za Website: www.metcon.co.za METAL IMAGE Tel no: 021 447 6600 E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com Website: www.metalimage.co.za MG IVORY Tel no: 011 788 1018 E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za MICHAEL J SOLOMON MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS) Tel no: 011 792 5292 E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 913 3944 E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com Website: www.michljewellery.com

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 453 7018 E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MINITZA Tel: 082 77 29812 E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS Tel no: 083 305 2798 E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za Website: https://www.madelinestemptations.co.za/

MIRKO JEWELLERY Tel no: 021 886 8296 E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

MAGGIE AFRICA Tel: 072 882 2586 E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

MOON INVESTMENTS Tel: 021 551 2066 E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za; invest@mooninvest.co.za

MAMBU DESIGN Tel no: 011 614 1879

N.N JEWELLERS Tel: 082 081 8179 E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 0630 E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY Tel: 082 651 8145 E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES Tel no: 031 702 4422 E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD Tel: 041 379 1162 E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES Tel no: 072 299 7148 E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

PAUL GALLIAS Tel no: 073 194 2415 E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO Tel no: 011 678 0595/6 E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/ PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel: 021 789 0312 E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS Tel no: 072 739 6800 E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com Website: www.phatsimajd.com PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 423 2771 E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 549 4966 E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 396 6178 E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/ PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 031 301 3963 E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC Tel no: 011 702 1462 E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za POPULAR DIAMOND JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC Tel no: 011 484 7044 E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za PRECISION SETTERS Tel no: 011 484 7803/4 E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

PRETTY FOUND THINGS Tel no: 083 651 9042 E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za PREVIDA & CO Tel: 011 701 5074 E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS Tel no: 021 422 1090 E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com Website: www.prinsandprins.com QUICKSET JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 468 9236 E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za RALPH WALTON Tel no: 028 316 3851 E-mail: ralph@rwd.co.za Website: https://www.rwd.co.za/ RAMSDEN DIAMONDS T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel: 011 404 5010 E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za RAND REFINERY LIMITED Tel no: 011 418 9000 E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za Website: www.randrefinery.com RARE EARTH CREATIONS Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/ REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 418 1600 E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 041 374 2101 E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za Website: www.ritco.co.za ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS Tel no: 082 974 4566 E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za Website: www.rcdesign.co.za ROK ORIGINALS Tel no: 072 203 3288 E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/ ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 794 1666 E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/ RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART Tel no: 021 447 2492 E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C Tel no: 031 306 4921 E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com SCANT DESIGN Tel: 072 339 1885 E-mail: as@scant.co.za SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC Tel no: 021 683 4646 E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za SEA & SHORE Tel: 082 742 5343 E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com SEDA LIMPOPO JEWELLERY INCUBATOR Tel no: 015 293 0214 E-mail: tessa@slji.org.za Website: www.slji.org.za SERAGLIO JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 783 8301

E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com Website: www.seragliojewellers.com SHADOW JEWELLERS Tel no: 082 689 8297 E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD Tel no: 082 308 2111 E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/ SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 049 3933 E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD Tel no: 011 450 3192 E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com Website: www.silkroutegold.com SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 334 4529 E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za SIRKEL JEWELLERY Tel no: 011 726 2365 E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 012 460 6771 E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za SMITH JEWELLERY Tel no: 071 313 8649 E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com Website: www.smith-jewellery.com STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY Tel no: 083 775 9995 E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/ STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD Tel no: 083 379 0171 E-mail: info@studio1980za.com Website: https://studio1980za.com/ STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN Tel no: 031 764 3000 E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net Website: www.studio39.co.za STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 642 7826 E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za Website: www.studioc.co.za STUDIO LOUBSER Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com Website: www.studioloubser.com SUGARBUSH CREATIONS Tel no: 015 293 2358 E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD Tel: 082 779 7084 E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com TASHA SWART CREATIONS Tel: 082 523 9982 E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/ THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY Tel no: 011 854 4556 E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/ THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST Tel: 031 303 2396 E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za THE JEWELLERY HUB Tel no: 083 326 5746 E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

THE MAKERY Tel no: 082 600 7142 E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com Website: www.themakerycollection.com THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR Tel no: 014 597 0736 E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za Website: www.tpi.org.za TINSEL GALLERY Tel no: 011 782 4051 E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za Website: https://tinselgallery.com/ TIP TOP JEWELLERS Tel no: 044 873 3048 E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net TRIMALCHIO Tel no: 012 346 6874 E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za TRISLO (PTY) LTD Tel no: 012 259 0100 E-mail: info@trislo.co.za Website: www.trislo.co.za TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Tel no: 012 382 6007 E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za Website: www.tut.ac.za UNCUT JEWELLERS Tel no: 083 225 8221 E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125 E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za Website: www.uj.ac.za UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH Tel no: 021 808 3047 E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/ VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS Tel no: 031 208 9142/3 E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS Tel no: 011 615 4758 E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS Tel no: 031 564 2948 E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za VK JEWELLERY Tel no: 082 789 4498 E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS Tel no: 021 554 1169 E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO Tel no: 011 318 1340 E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY Tel no: 074 136 3633 E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD Tel: 010 109 2057 E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com ZULU MIEN Tel: 0823344426 E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD Tel no: 015 293 2306/58 E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com Website: www.zurel.co.za

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