SA Jewellery News • July 2023

jewellerynews

Defining trends that will impact your business

Bridal category buzzing at JCK Las Vegas

De Beers on pace to deliver on 2030 sustainability goals

Meet the team behind Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery Discover

J.P.P.E is a Cape Town-based family business with a passion for gemstones and jewellery that has been servicing the industry since 1966 - inspiring us to create stunning jewellery designs for both locals and tourists.

From elegant pieces inspired by Africa to the classic jewellery staples, we offer an impressive selection of designs set with gems in a rainbow of colours, as well as a broad selection of loose gemstones.

Our vast range of styling can be ordered using a variety of gemstones, in 9ct, 14ct or 18ct solid gold.

With innovative CAD designing combined with the expertise of our talented artisans, our craftsmanship is on par with international standards.

From the seeds of your clients’ ideas, we are capable of drafting three-dimensional blueprints and manufacturing sophisticated jewellery pieces to their unique specifications.

All our jewellery is made in SA and is backed with a 100% service guarentee.

Africa’s Premier Jewellery and Watch Exhibition

DATES: Sunday, 3 September - Monday, 4 September

VENUE: Wanderers Club, Illovo, Johannesburg

BOOKINGS: elsad@jewellery.org.za or darrylv@jewellery.org.za

9. NEWS

• Jewellex Africa is back

• System for mercury-free processing of gold ore field test successful

• Registration now open for 2023 CIBJO Congress

• WDC President commends participants on robust discussions during KP Intersessional

• Rapaport launches natural pearl market

18. DEFINING TRENDS THAT WILL CONTINUE TO IMPACT BUSINESSES

The past two years have seen substantial change, especially in the workplace, where organisations of all shapes and sizes have had to navigate a new normal.

20. DE BEERS ON PACE TO DELIVER ON AMBITIOUS 2030 SUSTAINABILITY GOALS

The De Beers Group has provided an update on progress towards its 2030 “Building Forever” sustainability goals, which were set as a blueprint for creating a positive and sustainable impact in its host countries.

24. BRIDAL CATEGORY BUZZING AT JCK LAS VEGAS

Many of the latest trends in bridal jewellery were reflected in the styles and collections introduced at this year’s JCK Las Vegas.

26. COVER FEATURE

Meet the team behind Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery.

28. ANGLO AMERICAN REORGANISES SENIOR MANAGEMENT

Diversified mining and marketing company Anglo American has announced several changes to its senior management team and organisation to lead its next phase of value delivery.

31. COLOURED STONES UNEARTHED

This instalment examines some of the coloured gemstones that provide important information on the mineralogy, composition and evolution of the earth.

39. SSEF LAUNCHES GLOBAL SERVICE FOR MELEE DIAMONDS

The Swiss Gemmological Institute has announced the successful conclusion of validation testing of the ASDI-500, a system that is able to screen very large quantities of round, colourless, polished melee, detecting and extracting synthetics and simulants.

44. BORN IN AFRICA

A comprehensive directory featuring information and contact details of all members of the Jewellery Manufacturing Association of SA.

CONTENTS

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, its members, the publisher or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither the owners, the Jewellery Council of South Africa, the Diamond Dealers’ Club of South Africa, the editor nor the publisher can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. SA Jewellery News© 2023. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publishers. ISSN 1817-5333.

Editor: Adri Viviers

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

Cell: 084-261-1805

E-mail: adri@isikhova.co.za

Managing Director: Imraan Mahomed

E-mail: imraanm@isikhova.co.za

Director Brand Strategy: Jenny Justus

Cell: 083-450-6052

E-mail: jenny@isikhova.co.za

Creative Director: Joanne Brook

E-mail: joanne@isikhova.co.za

Operations Director: Thuli Majola

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

E-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

Advertising Sales:

Tel: +27 (0)11 883-4627

Cell: 083-450-6052

Copy Editor: Anne Phillips

Distribution: Ruth Dlamini

SA Jewellery News is published by: Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd, Physical: 10th Floor, Metal Box, 25 Owl Street, Milpark, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Website: www.isikhova.co.za

Editor's note

AH, WINTER – FROSTY MORNINGS, DARK evenings and dodging viruses here, there and everywhere. Yet winter is also a time for evenings by the fire, cosy sweaters and hot drinks – all of which can be enjoyed while reading our July issue.

One of the most serious challenges facing the planet is the environment: cleaning up the existing pollution as best as possible and leaving behind a habitable world for future generations. In this issue, De Beers shares an update on progress toward its 2030 “Building Forever” sustainability goals. The goals were set in 2020 and are De Beers’ blueprint for creating a positive and sustainable impact in its host countries and throughout the diamond value chain. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has also released its first sustainability report and strategy, which was developed in reference to the Global Reporting Initiative framework. It includes baseline achievements for 2022 on a range of social, environmental and governance programmes, as well as the GIA’s 2025 sustainability strategy, “Championing Transparency”.

JCK Las Vegas, held from 2-5 June, has once again confirmed its status as

a global hub for the jewellery industry. SAJN international correspondent Smitha Sadanandan asked some of the renowned international brands which launched new bridal collections at this year’s show what has been trending.

Mike Freislich, a respected coach, trainer and the co-founder of We Do Change, also shares the top six organisational changes that defined the past two years and how they impact a team’s ability to become agile, modify and move forward.

As a player in our industry and a member of the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA), we are extremely grateful for the work CEO Lorna Lloyd and her team do behind the scenes. Accordingly, we are excited to re-introduce her “Message From the CEO” from this issue.

If you are anything like me, then you are probably also struggling to be your usual upbeat self during the cold weather. We hope this issue will help you stay positive when you feel the winter blues creeping in.

Happy reading!

Adri Viviers

ON THE COVER

Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery is a caster, manufacturer and designer of high-quality, elegant jewellery serving both the trade and private clients. Established in 2008 by Johann Claassens and his wife Suvette, it is a business built on passion and dedication. Piccolo does it all – or anything and everything in between, from CAD designs using the latest technology to 3D wax models for which it has a number of machines that it updates regularly. Piccolo casts in platinum and all kinds of gold alloys – especially high palladium, white gold alloys and silver. It also does semi-finishes (finishing pieces to a certain point), as well as total finishes (where jewellers can collect the finished pieces from them). In addition, Piccolo does stone-setting for the trade. For more information, contact Piccolo on e-mail: info@piccolojewellery.co.za or tel: 083-396-6178.

Registration now open for 2023 CIBJO Congress

CIBJO’s 2023 annual congress will take place in Jaipur, in the Indian state of Rajasthan, from 3-5 October. Pre-congress meetings will be held on 1 and 2 October. The hosts of the congress are the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) and the co-host is the National Gem & Jewellery Council of India (NGJCI). The congress venue will be the Jaipur Exhibition and Congress Centre (JECC).

Upon registering, delegates will also be able to pre-book hotel rooms using links provided on the dedicated website for the official congress hotel, which is located directly above the convention complex at the JECC.

CIBJO Congresses serve as the gathering place for the World Jewellery Confederation’s Assembly of Delegates and are also the venue for the annual meetings of CIBJO’s sectoral commissions, where amendments can be introduced to the organisation’s definitive directories of international industry standards for diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, gem labs, precious metals coral and responsible

sourcing, known as the Blue Books.

The CIBJO Congress is also where there reports are given on the programmes of the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation (WJCEF), as well as activities related to CIBJO’s ongoing co-operation with the United Nations and its development programme.

Known as the Pink City because of the characteristic burnt ochre colour of many of the buildings in its centre, Jaipur is both the capital of Rajasthan and also its largest city, with more than 4 million residents. Its connection to the jewellery industry dates back to its establishment in 1727. Skilled craftsmen, including jewellers and stone-cutters, were brought in, creating an enamelling and gem-setting tradition that continues to this day. It is estimated that the number of people employed in established factories and the cottage industry, both in the city and surrounding areas, is 200 000300 000, with more than half of them involved in gem-cutting. The gemstone most associated with Jaipur is the emerald, but it also has been a major tanzanite-cutting centre.

“It promises to be a spectacular congress,” says Gaetano Cavalieri, CIBJO President, “and the first to be held in person since 2019, before the onset of the pandemic. For many of us, it will be an opportunity to meet face to face after more than three years and I can’t think of a more appropriate and exotic setting to do so. My thanks to our Indian hosts and especially our CIBJO Vice-President Pramod Agrawal, who’s also the NGJCI Chairperson, as well as to Vipul Shah, the GJEPC Chairperson.”

A dedicated 2023 CIBJO Congress website will be launched shortly.

Christie’s two Magnificent Jewels sales totals US$62 million

Christie’s has announced the outstanding results for The Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower and Magnificent Jewels. The two sales totalled US$62 252 390 and were 117% sold by the low estimate and 97% sold by value.

The Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower totalled US$11 521 260 and was 141% sold by its low estimate and 100% sold by value. The sale featured an assemblage of jewellery from the most important houses. The top lot was the iconic “Jarretière” ruby and diamond bracelet, acquired by Marlene Dietrich in 1937 from Van Cleef & Arpels. The bracelet realised US$4 527 000.

Jewellex Africa is back!

Jewellex Africa 2023 will be hosted by the Jewellery Council of SA for the first time since 2019 and will be held at the Wanderers Club, Illovo, Johannesburg from 3-4 September.

The show will operate on a smaller scale and will allow suppliers, wholesalers, manufacturers and service providers to sell only to the trade.

For out-of-town exhibitors and visitors, the Wanderers Hotel is within walking distance.

Interested exhibitors are invited to refer to the floor layout below. Stand allocations will be done on a first-come, first-served basis and large stands will be allocated first.

Sponsorship opportunities will be circulated soon.

For further information or an application to exhibit, e-mail: elsad@jewellery.org.za.

Magnificent Jewels featured an assemblage of jewels from private collections, alongside signed jewels by Cartier, Chaumet, Harry Winston, JAR, Tiffany & Co, Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura. Magnificent Jewels totalled US$50 731 130 and was 112% sold by its low estimate and 96% sold by value. The top lot of the sale was The Light of Peace, which realised US$13 635 000.

(Below): The Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond “Jarretière” bracelet.

(Right): The Light of Peace diamond.

Robust discussions during KP Intersessional in Zimbabwe

The 2023 Intersessional Meeting of the Kimberley Process (KP) concluded in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe at the end of May this year. Addressing the closing session of the gathering, World Diamond Council (WDC) President Feriel Zerouki was positive about the headway made during the four-day event.

“Decisions of the KP are taken at plenary meetings, so the goal of the intersessional is to record progress – and we seem to have achieved that on a number of key issues,” she said.

Turning first to the review and reform cycle that began this year, and more pointedly to the work of the sub-team on what constituted a “conflict diamond”, Zerouki strongly reiterated the council’s position that the expansion of the conflict diamond definition was essential. She emphasised that the KP had been provided with the mandate to do precisely that.

To reach common ground on the definition, as well as some of the other issues being addressed by the Ad Hoc Committee on Review and Reform, a spirit of candour, trust and respect was essential, she said.

“As we’ve witnessed this week, through open and robust discussions, we’ve secured the necessary psychological safety to share views and positions in support of the reform. These fundamentals are paramount if we’re to guarantee reform of this important process and promote the precious mineral resource of which we’re all custodians – natural diamonds,” she stated.

Commenting on the work of the KP Secretariat Taskforce, which is chaired by World Diamond Council representative Wim Soons, Zerouki noted that consensus was reached on the terms of reference of the new body, which is scheduled to begin operating next year in the Botswana capital of Gaborone.

The taskforce was also close to agreement on issuing a call for candidates for the new position of KP Executive Secretary, she added. Issues that still needed to be resolved include the legal entity status of the secretariat and a host country agreement.

Zerouki voiced particular concern about the situation in the Central African Republic (CAR). “The WDC wants nothing more than to see the country in peace and prospering from the value of its mineral resources,” she said.

Expressing the WDC’s commitment to the CAR Monitoring Team’s work and objectives, she said the council was disturbed about

the accuracy of values being determined on diamonds exported from the country. They contradicted the very purpose of the monitoring team’s revised operational framework for approving exports from authorised green zones, which was created specifically to support increased revenues for the CAR, as well as ensure security and stability, she explained.

Zerouki said the WDC supported a KP review visit to the CAR, but noted that it could not take place until the safety and security of

the review team could be assured.

She also paid tribute to the hosts of the meeting – the KP Chairperson and the Botswana government. “Their hard work, organisation and hospitality have all contributed to the spirit of collaboration we’ve experienced over the past several days,” she said.

On a personal note, she thanked all the participants in the intersessional for making her first major KP gathering as President of the WDC a memorable one.

Rapaport launches natural pearl market

The Rapaport Group has launched a new market for certified natural pearls.

The Tender Auction Catalogue was published on 7 June, with viewing in Dubai from 11-15 June and in Bahrain from 18-20 June. The tender auction closed on 20 June.

GIA releases first sustainability report

“Understanding our impact on the environment, societies and communities in which we operate is integral to our important consumer protection mission,” said GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques, speaking about the launch of the first Gemological Institute of America (GIA) sustainability report on 2 June at the JCK Las Vegas show. “It's vitally important that we all act on our responsibility to the planet and its people, advancing the positive aspects of the gem and jewellery industry, and mitigating the negative.”

This first GIA sustainability report and strategy was developed in reference to the Global

Reporting Initiative (GRI) framework. It includes baseline achievements for 2022 on a range of social, environmental and governance (ESG) programmes, as well as the GIA’s 2025 sustainability strategy, Championing Transparency.

“To move from the concept of sustainability to concrete actions, it's essential to understand where we are and where we want to be, to develop a clear strategy and action plan,” said Johanna Levy, GIA Vice-President for ESG programmes. “At the GIA, this means working on our own operations – which we talk about in our report – and to support the industry in its sustainability journey through education and research.”

“Natural pearls direct from Bahraini divers operate under strict government supervision, ensuring protection of the natural habitat and environmental sustainability. DANAT – the Bahrain Institute of Pearls and Gemstones – has been instrumental in collecting, grading and certifying the pearls,” stated the group.

Only natural pearls were offered for sale and were certified natural by DANAT.

This inaugural report includes ESG data for all GIA affiliates in the nine countries where the institute has operations and ambitious, measurable targets, including:

• Reducing GIA’s greenhouse gas emissions by 50% by 2030.

• Building sustainability content into the GIA’s education programmes.

• Providing no-cost basic gemmology training to 15 000 artisanal miners.

• Advancing sustainability in the industry through traceability of gems and verification of pre-owned jewellery. The GIA will report on progress toward these targets in its 2023 sustainability report.

It means that you can benefit by dealing with a member of the Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa and be assured of:

• Reliability

• Ethical and honest conduct

• Accountability in case of grievances

• Legal expertise

• Prestige of its Members due to strict controls and criteria

• Confidence (the fifth “C”)

The members of the Diamond Dealers Club of South Africa Comprises of South Africa’s leading diamond manufacturers, dealers in diamonds and precious stones and jewellers.

WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN TO YOU?

System for mercury-free processing of gold ore field test successful

The recent successful field test of an innovative system for mercury-free processing of gold ore is a significant advancement in the important effort to safeguard the health and safety and improve economic outcomes of artisanal, small-scale gold miners (ASGM) and their communities.

The field tests, conducted with approximately 60 miners in three communities in Colombia’s Chocó and Antioquia departments in mid-April 2023, followed several years of planning and technical analysis by the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) and MercuryFree Mining (MFM), supported by a grant from the Gemological Institute of America. MFM selected GOLDROP, which uses an innovative, yet simple water-flow system to separate gold from other minerals, as the most promising option after reviewing the results of six processing technologies.

“The miners with whom we collaborated were genuinely excited about the GOLDROP system, foreseeing improvements in their gold recovery rates and a reduction in their reliance on mercury,” said Toby Pomeroy, Executive Director of MFM. “Initial results using the GOLDROP system are very promising, with fine gold recovery as well

as mercury from whole-ore amalgamated concentrates. Further analysis will quantify specific data proving GOLDROP’s effectiveness over various mining locales and ore types.”

The GOLDROP system, developed by John Richmond of Sluice Goose Industries and demonstrated at the 2023 AGTA GemFair, is a portable, easy-to-use, costeffective device that, according to laboratory findings, can capture more fine gold than traditional processing methods, including those using mercury. “GOLDROP produces some of the highest fine gold recovery I’ve ever seen,” said Juan Camilo Megía Mosquera, Unión Panamericana gold miner, one of the field test participants.

“The encouraging results of this test are a testament to the value of innovation and commitment,” said GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques. “This great success helps protect ASGM communities and addresses the growing consumer demand for greater sustainability in the gem and jewellery supply chain.”

The next step, targeted for completion in 2023, is a pilot project to analyse the GOLDROP system’s efficiency across three or four mining communities in Peru and Colombia.

Operations at Kareevlei mine remain suspended

BlueRock Diamonds has gone into administration and operations at the Kareevlei mine in South Africa will remain suspended amid heavy financial difficulties.

The company, whose main subsidiary in SA entered business rescue in February, is also unlikely to receive any final payout from mining activities to settle its outstanding debt, it said recently.

Administration in the UK is similar to

Chapter 11 in the USA. Control of the company transfers to insolvency practitioners, whose task is to try to save the company or get the best results for creditors.

Negotiations for the restructuring of Kareevlei are currently in progress and its mining licence has been renewed, BlueRock noted. Trading in BlueRock’s shares on London’s Alternative Investment Market will remain suspended. – Rapaport

Update on activities within the JCSA

THE FIRST SIX MONTHS OF THIS YEAR HAVE been busy ones for the staff at the Jewellery Council of SA (JCSA).

In an attempt to save costs, we now only employ three employees, being myself as CEO, Elsa da Silva as Personal Assistant and Darryl van der Linde as our Bookkeeper and Admin Support. We continue to work remotely until such time as we are in a better financial position to move into offices.

Besides the general daily activities, I can report on some of the pertinent accomplishments:

The JCSA invited members on behalf of the Department of Trade, Industry and Competition (DTIC) who partnered with GIZ, a German development agency, to capacitate SA companies wanting to understand the German market and its business culture. The initiative intends to attract companies with export potential from different sectors targeting Germany as a market for their products and services.

The Hong Kong Trade Development Council invited our member buyers to attend the HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show & HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show in March 2023. As a token of appreciation for their support, they offered the hotel sponsorship programme to facilitate their visit.

We invited members to sponsor jewellery prizes for our Valentine’s Day competition, the aim of which was to promote jewellery to the public as gifts marking that occasion.

The JCSA recently arranged for 10 manufacturing companies to exhibit at JCK Las Vegas, held in early June. Their trip was fully sponsored by the DTIC, including flights, accommodation, meals and a fully furnished stand. As the largest and most renowned jewellery trade event in the world, JCK boasted over 30 000 industry professionals from over 130 countries.

The JCSA continues to offer members an opportunity to participate on the Jewellex365 online business platform. Once the platform has been populated by wholesalers, manufacturers, suppliers and service providers, we will be in a position to market our members locally and internationally.

A very exciting recent announcement was the launch of Jewellex Africa 2023 for the first time since 2019. The show will be hosted at the Wanderers Club, Illovo, Johannesburg from 3-4 September and will be held on a smaller

scale, allowing suppliers, wholesalers, manufacturers and service providers to sell to the trade only.

For out-of-towners, the Wanderers Hotel is in walking distance of the venue and we are encouraging buyers to make a weekend of it. Enquiries can be made at the JCSA’s offices.

You may all be aware that National Treasury has amended the FIC Act. Of particular importance in it is that suppliers of high-value goods receiving payment in any form, not only cash, above R100 000 are now accountable institutions under FICA legislation. The JCSA has assisted members with guidelines, offering opportunities for training and webinars to educate jewellers.

topics on these platforms for retailers, such as legislation and urgent messages.

The JCSA approached SARS on behalf of some members who were experiencing difficulties receiving claims for Notional VAT as well as Import VAT.

The Mining Qualifications Authority, which is a Sector Education and Training Authority for the mining and minerals sector (including jewellery), invited jewellery employers to apply for discretionary grants for training.

The JCSA continues to circulate information about jewellery stolen in robberies, with the request that if they are offered such items to purchase, they contact the relevant authorities.

One of the most important legislative changes affecting our members has been the new VAT regulations, which introduced the domestic reverse charge that affects vendors buying and selling gold and gold jewellery. We have provided members with resources and offered guidelines, webinars and online question-and-answer sessions with the assistance of Metal Concentrators’ tax experts and ENSAfrica, who have provided amazing support to the industry.

Very importantly, crime has recently increased. Our Jewellery Council Risk Initiative is working closely with the Consumer Goods Council of SA and private security, the SA Council of Shopping Centres, insurance companies, the NPA and the SAPS, who have undertaken to give the jewellery sector priority in the fight to reduce crime.

The JCSA created a database, exclusively for members, of past employees who have resigned or been dismissed for reasons of performance or in suspicious or criminal circumstances. Members can contact the council when employing new staff to ascertain whether they were previously employed in the trade and whether they either resigned from or were dismissed from their jobs.

For legal reasons, we do not request or provide reasons for dismissals. However, members can contact previous employers to obtain references.

In terms of our retail members, the JCSA recently expanded the Crime Risk Initiative WhatsApp groups in Gauteng, KZN and the Western Cape to include other important

The JCSA has collaborated with a company that will be offering an AI and facial recognition service to the industry. In addition, we negotiated correct camera systems for member jewellers at affordable prices.

We recently assisted Anglo American Platinum in communicating its premier annual platinum jewellery design and manufacturing competition, PlatAfrica, to all jewellery designers.

The theme this year is “Emergence” and if you would like to enter, please let us know and we will put you in touch with the organisers.

There is also much more news that we have to share. For further information on any of the above topics, please e-mail us at: admin@jewellery.org.za.

Watch this space next month!

Lorna Lloyd, CEO: JCSA

FROM EMBRACING THE WORK-FROM-HOME phenomenon to improving how to attract and nurture diverse talents, both large and small adjustments born during the past two years will go on to create lasting shifts in the way businesses support their employees and prepare for the future.

Mike Freislich, a coach, trainer and the co-founder of We Do Change, shares the top six organisational changes which emerged during the COVID-19 lockdowns and how they will impact a team’s ability to become agile, modify and move forward.

Defining trends that will continue to impact businesses

Office obliteration

Employers have a tough decision – should they continue working from home?

It is a tough battle, especially when one considers the number of expensive office buildings that stand empty. However, the truth is that there are benefits to working from home. These include not having to commute to and from the office, which boosts productivity and morale, especially among introverted individuals.

So why would anyone want to head back to the office? Well, like it or not, we humans need to feel connected to thrive.

While more is possible in remote working environments, nothing beats escaping from eight-hour days in front of a computer screen. Even with a back-to-back meeting schedule,

being at the office means one can still enjoy a brief walk between meetings, a joke with colleagues or a hallway chat.

Never underestimate the value of an inperson format that allows us to feed off each other’s energy, movements, body language and eye contact.

Load-shedding troubles

Access to a reliable electricity source and good Internet connectivity is essential for any business, particularly those which have a remote working environment.

Our worsening energy crisis means that many South African businesses are without electricity during the working day, creating added stress for employees who are unable to conduct their roles and responsibilities properly.

The past two years have seen substantial change, especially in the workplace, where organisations of all shapes and sizes have had to navigate a new normal.

Load-shedding pressures cause distractions and disruptions to presentations and meetings and can have a negative overall impact on what is possible in terms of value creation. Things also take longer, at a time when the need to act and respond to change is more urgent than ever.

A struggling economy

Around the globe, everyone is feeling the pinch. In South Africa, the situation is amplified by fuel costs, compounded by the effects of state capture and an unreliable electricity supply.

Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs tells us that if a person’s fundamental needs are not met, they will simply be unable to do their best work. I have noticed that people are more tired and emotionally worn out this year. This leads to sluggish productivity and elevated levels of apathy, which are serious problems when working as a team.

The need for rapid organisational response to change

The changes over the past two years have further exacerbated an already volatile, uncertain, complex and ambiguous world.

The urgent need to reinvent and change direction has caught leaders off guard, in some cases forcing them to make decisions that impact others.

We have seen major decisions handed down from leaders for execution without any context or consultation. While this is a necessary approach at times, it leads to demotivation. Everyone wants to feel like a valued member of a team whose views are appreciated. I have seen many instances over this year where better communication and inclusive decision-making would have led to far better results.

Stimulating new ways of thinking

Allowing people the space to breathe is crucial. Many of us have felt stuck in our jobs, while constantly facing challenges that impede progress.

Attending training with an experienced external coach is an effective way of unearthing new ideas and understanding how to implement them into your organisation.

Participating in a training course can be a terrific way to disrupt one’s current way of thinking and create new opportunities for improvement. It enables a complete re-think of one’s operational needs to create value more effectively.

In flight-level thinking, for example, we talk about “agile interactions”, rather than meetings, to become explicit about intended purpose, format, outcomes, inputs and participants. The aim is to examine and replace the abundance of meetings with a smaller set of truly focused interactions.

Businesses need to be open to reinvention in the new norm. For example, consider shortening all meetings by 10 minutes to afford people the time to move around and regroup before the next meeting or Zoom call.

Taking care of mental health

This is one of the biggest health crises, but is often hard to spot. When somebody is behaving below perceived expectations, it is important to generate empathy. One way of doing so is by pausing before responding and considering no fewer than five plausible reasons they are behaving that way. This

technique can greatly improve one’s own responses in difficult situations.

Communication is always one’s best friend in these circumstances. Employees need to feel reassured that leaders are understanding and that help is available to them, if required.

Humans are complex. We each have our own feelings, views and thoughts. Consult your people and find ways to co-create solutions. Solutions built together are more widely accepted than those imposed from the top and are more likely to benefit everyone. While this approach takes more effort, the positive effects are long-lasting.

Consult your people and find ways to co-create solutions. Solutions built together are more widely accepted than those imposed from the top and are more likely to benefit everyone.

In partnership with Anglo American and EDF Renewables, De Beers commenced development of more than 70 MW of renewable energy projects in southern Africa.

De Beers on pace to deliver on ambitious 2030 sustainability goals

THE DE BEERS GROUP’S 2030 SUSTAINABILITY goals span four pillars: leading ethical practices, partnering for thriving communities, protecting the natural world and accelerating equal opportunity.

During 2022, the group saw advances across all four “Building Forever” pillars and all 12 goals, which include reductions in water use and energy intensity, innovations in diamond-tracing technology, increased representation of women in senior leadership and progress towards its climate commitments.

A notable milestone was setting emission reduction targets across scopes 1, 2 and 3, which have been validated by the ScienceBased Targets initiative (SBTi). De Beers’ near-term SBTi-validated targets are to reduce absolute scopes 1 and 2 emissions by 42% and absolute scope 3 emissions by 25% by 2030. In setting the targets across all three scopes, De Beers is extending its climate ambition over and above its existing commitment to be carbon-neutral across scopes 1 and 2 emissions by 2030.

The SBTi-validated targets represent the reductions required by the organisation to align with the goals of the Paris Agreement on climate change. However, under its existing carbon-neutral commitment and with the implementation of its “Reduce and Replace” strategy, the group expects to exceed its SBTi-validated targets for reducing scopes 1 and 2 emissions by 2030.

De Beers also accelerated the pace of innovation and investment in its blockchain provenance platform, Tracr. The platform was deployed at scale in 2022 and enables participants to provide assurance of a

diamond’s source as it travels through the value chain. More than half of De Beers’ global production by value is now being registered on Tracr, which was recently named by Forbes as one of the world’s 50 leading blockchains for the third time.

“De Beers has a simple belief that informs everything we do: the diamonds we discover belong to the communities and countries in which they're found. We're inspired by the beauty and rarity of natural diamonds and the natural world, and we know how precious diamonds are – not only for the people who wear them, but for all those they touch along the way,” said Al Cook, the group’s CEO.

“‘Building Forever’ is about taking a long-term view. We work hand-in-hand with the communities in which we live and work to shape a better future. Our actions range from addressing the climate crisis to growing prosperity wherever we operate and by using our proprietary technologies, we can now connect our customers to the origin, impact and stories of their diamonds. ‘Building Forever’ will continue to guide every decision De Beers makes and touch every diamond we discover.”

“De Beers is committed to advancing industry standards, enhancing the transparency of diamond provenance and improving the livelihoods of artisanal miners,” said the group.

Key highlights of the group’s progress update include having increased the number of entities participating in the Best Practice Principles, the company’s set of leading ethical, social and environmental standards which are independently audited, to 2 690

The De Beers Group has provided an update on progress toward its 2030 “Building Forever” sustainability goals, which were set in 2020 and are the organisation’s blueprint for creating a positive and sustainable impact in its host countries and throughout the diamond value chain.

Image courtesy De Beers

from 2 283 in 2021. The miner also increased the number of mine sites participating in GemFair, De Beers’ programme to support the formalisation of the artisanal mining sector, to 263 from 219 in 2021. In addition, the programme provided fair and equitable finance to support the operations of 49 members.

Protecting the natural world

For its business and host communities to thrive, the mining giant must protect the natural world. In all of its activities, it follows best practices for biodiversity and water management, air quality, greenhouse gas emissions, waste and mine closure and rehabilitation.

In this regard, key highlights of its progress report included that it had:

• Achieved a 14% reduction in freshwater withdrawals and a 4% reduction in energy intensity compared with 2021.

• In partnership with Anglo American and EDF Renewables, commenced development of more than 70 MW of renewable energy projects in southern Africa.

• Invested US$2 million in Kelp Blue, a start-up that grows underwater kelp forests off the coast of Namibia, which can absorb carbon up to 50 times faster than landbased forests. In addition to supporting De Beers’ carbon-neutral commitment, Kelp Blue will create jobs and support sustainable economic development in Namibia.

• Marked the 20th anniversary of the Diamond Route, the 202 343 ha network of conservation sites that De Beers manages across southern Africa, protecting more than 50 mammal species.

• Continued Okavango Eternal, a partnership with National Geographic to protect the critically important headwards of the Okavango Delta. Progress included installing innovative water-monitoring technology, deepening research and understanding, and engaging with communities on soil-friendly farming methods.

Partnering for thriving communities

De Beers reiterated that it was focused on working with a range of stakeholders to help build a sustainable future and contribute to a better quality of life in its host communities, with particular emphasis on health and well-being, education and skills development, economic diversification and livelihood support.

In this regard, key highlights included that it had:

• Marked two decades since the introduction of its pioneering programme to provide free and confidential treatment to employees and their families living with HIV/Aids. The programme has helped save an estimated 650 lives during this time and has also ensured that there have been no cases of mother-to-child HIV transmission among employees or their partners for 14 consecutive years.

• In collaboration with Right to Care, rolled out a community-orientated primary care partnership to strengthen medical clinics in southern Africa, prioritising areas that lacked medical provision.

• Supported 420 students in securing 12-month internships in different sectors through a partnership with the International Youth Foundation.

• A total of 18 southern African-based companies completed the Stanford Seed Transformation entrepreneurship programme which De Beers supports in partnership with Stanford University.

• In total, more than 3 340 jobs were supported by De Beers through various socio-economic development projects and initiatives and 71% of its goods and services were procured from local suppliers.

Accelerating equal opportunity

Finally, De Beers again emphasised its focus on accelerating economic inclusion and

supporting diverse voices to help shape the future of its business, host communities and society at large, with a particular focus on addressing the historical under-representation of women in its talent pipeline and encouraging fresh and diverse talent into the diamond jewellery sector. In this regard, key highlights included:

• At the end of 2022, women comprised 33% of senior management positions within the De Beers Group (up from 31% in 2021).

• The group extended its partnership with WomEng, a highly regarded social enterprise committed to helping women and girls pursue careers in engineering and technology, for another three years.

• Since 2018, De Beers has provided 89 scholarships to women studying STEM at universities in Canada, has reached more than 3 700 school pupils in southern Africa through STEM workshops and has supported more than 2 400 women entrepreneurs to grow their businesses.

• The group provided funding for a free 12-week jewellery-making course for teens in New York City, which aims to fill the void of limited access to jewellery studios for teenage designers. De Beers also established an internal Equity, Diversity & Inclusion Council comprising volunteers from across the business to deepen understanding of the company’s diverse workforce and further cultivate an inclusive culture.

(Above): Lebogang Elsie Machaba (28), an entrepreneur involved in the AWOME programme and owner of Lbeauty Salon Senwabarwana, Blouberg District, Polokwane, SA.

Image courtesy De Beers

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Bridal category buzzing at JCK Las Vegas

WITH OVER 30 YEARS OF UNITING THE industry in Las Vegas, the JCK Las Vegas show continues to deliver an exceptional experience that serves all major segments of the jewellery industry.

Last year, JCK celebrated its 30th anniversary, welcoming more than 17 000 attendees and 1 800 exhibitors from around the world, with guests from 130 countries attending. Earlier this year, JCK was recognised by Trade Show Executive magazine for its excellence in “returning to business as usual” following COVID-19, with TSNN awarding its 2022 show the Comeback Winner for Outstanding Attendance.

“Our goal is always to be the industry’s single greatest jewellery event for doing business and connecting, offering jewellery professionals the invaluable education and networking they need to propel their businesses and careers forward,” say the JCK Las Vegas fair organisers. “Whether you’re a buyer, a designer, a manufacturer, a supplier or a student, JCK’s a show you should be at every year.”

Jewellery insider and SA Jewellery

News international correspondent Smitha Sadanandan spoke to some of the renowned international brands which launched new bridal collections at this year’s show:

Ben Bridge

“We continue to see an uptick in elongated shapes in engagement rings – and it won’t be stopping anytime soon. Everything from ovals to pears and emeralds continue to be on the top of our fancy shape list,” says Molly Peterson, Bridal Buyer for Ben Bridge.

“We’re also seeing wide diamond bands that go beyond the traditional single-stone engagement ring being popular at the moment.”

Many of the latest trends in bridal jewellery were reflected in the styles and collections introduced at this year’s JCK Las Vegas.

Hearts On Fire

Hearts On Fire’s new Vela bridal collection offers modern sensibility and draws on curves and swooping lines of a feather – a design element that appears discreetly in all 11 pieces of the collection.

The diamond engagement rings at the heart of the Vela collection mirror the lightness and shape of a feather floating through air, with a unique and elegant winged setting crafted with no bridge and minimal metal. The innovative design fills the stone with light and maximises the brilliance of the diamond. Each four-prong setting allows for a 360˚ view of the stone and holds it high.

Joshua J Fine Jewelry

“We’re seeing brides select rings with wider bands over the super-thin shanks that were popular during the past few years,” says Joshua J Fine Jewelry Director of Sales for Western USA, Adam Graham. “We’ve also seen an increase in yellow gold this year. Simpler, classic designs and more fancy shapes in jewellery and wedding bands are trending.”

Kirk Kara

“At JCK Luxury, we showcased new collections, including hidden halos, couples’ rings and rings inspired by motifs such as leaves, vines and blossoms,” says Angela Karaguezian, CEO and designer at Kirk Kara. “We’ve noticed an increase in demand for multi-stone rings that aren’t the traditional three-stone ones, but have multiple stone baguette sides or fancy side-stones featuring pears, ovals or trapezoids.”

Le Vian

“This year, the bridal trend surges towards natural-coloured precious gems and coloured diamonds,” says Eddie LeVian, CEO of LE Vian.

“We’ve noticed that the emerald cut is trending this bridal season, while the doubleclaw for centre stones has been the setting that’s on trend.”

Norman Silverman

“Our advice to couples who ask about bridal trends is that it’s important that you love what you pick. Invest in the centre and don’t be afraid to choose trendy, if that’s your style, as changing the ring in a few years is a minimal investment. Love it and wear it with pride. Don’t worry about what others think, as your opinion is the only one which matters,” says Trudy Tracy, Norman Silverman’s in-house diamond stylist.

“Large stones on a simple band and centrestones in an east-west setting, prong-set and bezel settings are on trend at the moment,” she adds.

Rahaminov Diamonds

“Our continuous bezel-style ring is new and was launched at JCK Luxury 2023. It’s a very clean and chic design,” says Melanie Goldfiner Goldberg, Director of Marketing and Business Development at Rahaminov Diamonds.

“Solitaires and engagement rings with hidden halos are very much in demand, with less of a demand for traditional halo styles. However, our cluster-style rings with larger diamonds are still best-sellers. Bezel-set rings are also popular – the focus is less on dainty designs. It’s more about comfort, style and everyday wear.”

About Smitha Sadanandan JZA's Editor-at-Large is Chicago-based Sadanandan – a freelance journalist specialising in the luxury industry. She tracks international trends in the jewellery-watches sector and provides an insightful perspective as an analyst. She contributes to the Financial Times, South China Morning Post, Prestige (HK), Vogue (India), Solitaire (Asia Pacific), Natural Diamond Council, The Adventurine and Solitaire International (GJEPC), among others.

Meet the team behind Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery

Established in 2008 by Johann Claassens and his wife Suvette, who were joined by director Christian Oldewage in 2020, Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery offers a full range of jewellery services to the trade, including high-quality CAD designs, 3D wax models, casting, stone-setting, semi- and total finishes. The team tell us about the lessons they have learnt, what inspires their creativity and the advice they would offer aspiring jewellery designers.

WITH A CLIENT BASE OF MANUFACTURERS, designers, makers, retailers and private clients, Piccolo Fine Designer Jewellery fiercely upholds its standards of excellence and attention to detail.

The enterprise comprises a small, but hard-working and passionate team. Johann does all the custom designs using modern computer-aided design (CAD) programs. Suvette, who holds a BTech and taught jewellery design and manufacturing for five years, does all Piccolo’s benchwork and finishing. Christian also does design work and helps when Johann is engaged in too much work. In addition, he does all the technical work, such as 3D wax printing up to and including metal preparation and casting. Each team member has a very fine eye for detail and between them, they have more than 28 years of industry experience.

SAJN had several questions for the team.

JOHANN

When did you first realise you wanted to pursue a career as a jewellery designer?

To be honest, designing jewellery was never the plan. I studied fine and applied arts, hoping to become a glass-blower. I met Suvette on campus while she was studying jewellery design and manufacturing. I helped her with a few designs and that was how I entered this space.

What is the most important jewellerymaking skill you have learnt?

Measure, measure, measure – and measure again! This does not only apply to making jewellery, because no matter how good you are at any of the other skills involved in the process, if something doesn’t fit, it doesn’t fit. For example, I may cast a platinum ring exceptionally well, but if I had the measurements wrong, I’ll have to start again from scratch.

What inspires your creativity when making a new piece of jewellery?

For me, it’s about the diamond or gemstone the client wants to use, as well as the story

behind why they want that particular piece made. I like making pieces for specific occasions, such as an anniversary using a client’s grandmother’s diamond, or her earrings for a 21st birthday. The reason for the piece and what I have to work with are where I get my inspiration.

What is the biggest lesson you have learnt in your career?

That you’re never too old to learn something new and you should always be open and willing to change with the times. I’ve also learnt that something I find pretty isn’t necessarily pretty to someone else, and that’s OK. People differ and so do tastes, so when it comes to something as personal as jewellery, it’s important that the wearer really likes it and is happy with it. That’s what really matters.

SUVETTE

Who or what is your biggest inspiration?

Art Nouveau jewellery and jewellers.

What does a typical day at work look like for you?

We start off by casting for the day’s jewellery to be manufactured for private and/or trade clients. Thereafter I work mostly at the bench, finishing off jewellery pieces, prepping pieces for setting and doing finishing touches on pieces before they go out for delivery. I also help with casting preparations for the next day, as well as seeing clients and suppliers.

What are the most treasured items in your personal jewellery collection?

I have a salt and pepper diamond wedding ring that I love. The main cognac diamond is surrounded by small, but prominent shades of light brown to cognac-coloured diamonds. The entire ring’s finished with filigree work and intricate hand-engraving. I also treasure my first Art Deco-inspired wedding ring.

What is your power principle?

Have passion for what you do every day and do whatever you do with passion.

CHRISTIAN

What first led you to jewellery design?

I had an interest in 3D printing and that led me to start designing. I started off designing functional parts for everyday life, but as I learnt more about the programs, I changed my direction of designs to jewellery.

Piccolo Fine Jewellery’s services to the trade include:

Design – Supplying high-quality CAD designs for jewellers using the latest technology is one of Piccolo’s core services. “We help jewellers transform their client’s idea from a picture or pencil sketch to a CAD drawing, ready to be printed in wax,” says Johann. An added benefit for jewellers is that the Piccolo team knows what to look for and design in such a way that the rest of the steps, including casting and setting, not only go easily, but result in a good product. Design programs are also very expensive, so jewellers save thousands of rand by paying us for a design instead. “In addition, our turnaround time’s quite fast, which means the jeweller’s client doesn’t have to wait long,” adds Johann.

Wax printing – Piccolo uses the CAD drawings it receives from jewellers or that it has designed for them to print topquality, 100% wax models which are ready to be cast. It has a number of machines that are updated regularly in order to do so. An added benefit for jewellers is that no matter how many times a wax model needs to be printed, clients only pay Piccolo once. “The stress that goes with wax models becomes our problem, not theirs, which means the jeweller has one less thing to worry about,” says Johann.

What are your favourite materials to use?

My favourite material doesn’t go into the end product, but I really enjoy working with the 3D printed wax parts. It’s a very delicate process that requires patience and fine motor skills.

What’s your favourite piece of jewellery that you’ve designed?

This year’s PlatAfrica piece that I helped Johann design. It was inspired by a Californian poppy and took some organic modelling on my part to make it life-like. I’m very happy with the way the design turned out, once casted.

What advice would you offer aspiring jewellery designers?

Spend some time behind the workbench casting the pieces yourself to learn what does and doesn’t work in the design process, with regard to tolerances and stone settings.

Casting – Piccolo uses 3D wax models to make moulds. High-quality investment powders are used for the moulds for the wax casting process. After many years, Piccolo has seen that waste investment powder works best for different alloys. The team cast in platinum and palladium, as well as all kinds of gold alloys. “This means that jewellers don’t have to deal with the costs of all the different elements needed to cast,” explains Johann.

Finishing – With more than 25 years’ of collective experience, the Piccolo team finish castings for other jewellers with exceptional quality. Castings that have been finished then only require setting, which the jeweller can either do with Piccolo or use their setter of choice.

“There’s a big ‘loss’ on metal when it comes to finishing, which is expensive and can only be recovered through equally expensive refining. When Piccolo does the finishing for jewellers, they don’t have to worry about those losses and costs, as they only pay for the metal they get when the piece is done,” says Johann.

Setting – Piccolo can also handle the setting of jewellery. Its stone-setter has more than 15 years’ experience in the field.

ACCORDING TO DUNCAN WANBLAD, CEO of Anglo American, the company is reorganising how it manages its production businesses and the functional expertise which drives its consistent operational excellence and enhanced value. “We’re building on the significant progress we’ve made in recent years to further improve our portfolio of world-class assets and deliver our growth potential – in service of our commitments to our shareholders, employees and stakeholders as a responsible producer of future-enabling metals and minerals.

“We’ve been refreshing the executive team steadily over the past 12 months and we welcome this new generation of Anglo American’s leadership,” says Wanblad.

Al Cook joined as CEO of De Beers in February, with Alison Atkinson taking up the role of Projects and Development Director in May. Monique Carter has joined the company as People and Organisational Director, while Helena Nonka will lead a combined Strategy and Sustainability team, reflecting Anglo’s resolute commitment to sustainability in its fullest sense as an integral part of its strategy and portfolio decisions. Richard Price leads a combined Legal and Corporate Affairs team, strengthening the company’s

Anglo American reorganises senior management

Diversified mining and marketing company Anglo American has announced several changes to its senior management team and organisation for its next phase of value delivery.

(Below): Anglo America's South African corporate office.

integrated approach to its reputation across interconnected stakeholders and its employees to support strategic delivery and business performance.

Stephen Pearce will continue to lead the financial team across the group, but has indicated his intention to retire this year, having served as Financial Director since early 2017. The process of appointing his successor is underway.

Anglo American’s production businesses will be consolidated into two regions: Americas and Africa and Australia, each led by a Regional Director to be based in Brazil and South Africa respectively. They will be accountable for safe and responsible operations, optimising current performance, future options and commercial value, in line with the group’s strategy, and will ensure effective functional support and service delivery to their operations in each country. The two regions will be headed as follows:

• Regional Director, Americas –Ruben Fernandes.

• Regional Director, Africa and Australia –Themba Mkhwanazi.

• CEO of De Beers – Al Cook.

• CEO of Crop Nutrients – Tom McCulley.

• CEO of Marketing – Peter Whitcutt. The organisation supporting both the governance and strategic delivery of the group as a whole and the performance of the production businesses will be as follows:

• Finance Director – Stephen Pearce (due to retire in 2023).

• Technical and Operations Director –Matt Daley.

• Projects and Development Director –Alison Atkinson.

• Strategy and Sustainability Director –Helena Nonka.

• Legal and Corporate Affairs Director –Richard Price.

• People and Organisation Director –Monique Carter (assumed role on 5 June).

“Several changes to the team reflect the long service of a number of our senior executives and a variety of personal circumstances. Anik Michaud, who’s been instrumental over 15 years in shaping our brand, sustainability and thought leadership as critical underpins to employee and stakeholder trust, has decided the time is right for her to develop the next phase of her career outside Anglo American,” said Wanblad. “Didier Charreton has decided to retire after almost eight years in which

he’s transformed our people strategy, most notably in talent development and in creating a more inclusive and diverse workplace for us all. We thank Anik and Didier for their immense contributions and wish them well in their next endeavours.

“Nolitha Fakude has led our strategic interests in SA with great skill for the past four years and, before that, was a NonExecutive Director on our board. I’m delighted that she’ll continue as our Chairperson and lead a number of special projects in the national interest, while also advising me and supporting Themba in his new regional role.

“The fundamental demand outlook for responsibly sourced metals and minerals is ever more compelling. I believe we’re well positioned to produce and grow into the two major demand trends of economic decarbonisation and the needs of a growing and urbanising global population – from homes and electronics to food and luxuries. The changes we’ve announced create the senior team and organisational structure which will lead us to delivering our full potential.”

The organisational changes set out above take effect from 1 July 2023.

The CEOs of Anglo American’s businesses in Brazil (iron ore and nickel), Chile (copper) and Peru (copper) will report via the Regional Director: Americas. The CEOs of Anglo American’s PGMs business, Kumba Iron Ore and Australia (steelmaking coal), will report via the Regional Director: Africa and Australia.

(Below): Duncan Wanblad, CEO of Anglo American.

BI-ANNUAL DIRECTORY

For more information or to book your space, contact: Thuli Majola / 011 883 4627 / thuli@isikhova.co.za

Monthly educational insert

FEATURE ARTICLE

Colored Stones from the Deep

Colored Stones Unearthed

Aaron C. Palke | James E. Shigley SPONSORED BY

Minerals used as gemstones are all around us – for example, feldspar minerals [(Na,K,Ca)Al1+xSi3-xO8] and quartz (SiO2) that make up the bulk of the earth’s crust – and if we were to observe the earth’s mantle down to about 400 km deep, we would find an abundance of the mineral olivine [(Mg,Fe)2SiO4], known as peridot in the gem trade (figure 1). However, most minerals we encounter would not be considered gems due to their small grain size, lack of transparency, undesirable colors, or lack of durability for ornamental purposes. Gemquality minerals require very specific conditions of pressure, temperature, and chemistry to occur. These unique geological environments are quite uncommon, leading to the rarity of fine-quality gemstones in the earth.

In previous issues of Gems & Gemology, the “Diamonds from the Deep” column addressed aspects of current research on diamond geology. To a geologist, diamonds and their inclusions are ideal tools to study the deep earth (below about 35 km), a region totally inaccessible to traditional geological studies

involving field mapping and petrological observations of hand samples collected at or near the earth’s surface. On the other hand, most colored gemstones are formed in the crust—the outermost rocky layer of the earth, reaching down to a depth of roughly 35 km. Still, colored stone deposits are geologically diverse, and many gem-quality crystals do come from the earth’s mantle or the very deepest parts of the crust. The formation of colored stones from the crust-mantle transition and below will be the focus of our first instalment of this new column. Future instalments will appear in the journal on a periodic basis and will focus on geological concepts related to colored stones that readers now regularly encounter in articles on gems and gem localities. If there are topics of interest for future instalments, readers are encouraged to contact the column editors.

Colored Stones and the Deep Earth

We will now describe some of the colored gemstones that provide important information on the mineralogy, composition, and evolution of the earth.

Editors’ note: Questions or topics of interest should be directed to Aaron Palke (apalke@gia.edu) or James Shigley (jshigley@gia.edu).

GEMS & GEMOLOGY, VOL. 57, NO. 4, pp. 390–396.

© 2021 Gemological Institute of America

Figure 1. “Healing Sisters” rings with Four Peaks amethyst and San Carlos peridot, both from the San Carlos Apache Reservation in Arizona. These stones represent the geological diversity of colored stone formation from the earth’s near surface in the crust (amethyst) to the mantle (peridot). Photo by Maha Tannous; courtesy of Apache Gems.

Peridot. If one wanted to lay hands on a rock formed deep in the earth’s mantle, the barren deserts in northern Arizona would be the place to go. On the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation, there are fields of geologically recent (~one-million-year-old) lava flows containing xenoliths of the mantle rocks these magmas passed through on their way to the surface. The alkali basalts in this area are a dull, dark gray color, but occasionally they contain

vividly colored nodules composed of crystals or grains of apple green olivine and darker green pyroxene [(Ca,Mg,Fe)SiO3] minerals (figure 2). San Carlos Apache tribal members mine the basalts to recover the gemmy olivine (peridot) contained within the nodules. Because the peridot-bearing nodules are considered a close analogue for the bulk composition of the earth’s mantle, the olivine is widely used as a starting material for experimental geochemical studies aimed at interpreting the dynamics and evolution of the mantle (e.g., Kubo et al., 1998; Liu et al., 2005; Tollan et al., 2018). Similar xenolith-rich alkali basalts found in China, Australia, and Vietnam provide information on the composition of the earth’s mantle since, as stated earlier, olivine is a principal mineral phase.

Volcanically Sourced Sapphire and Ruby. Another glimpse deep into the earth comes from volcanically associated rubies and sapphires. These types of gem corundum (Al2O3) are found predominantly near the continental margins of Australia and Southeast Asia, where they are associated with voluminous alkali basalt extrusions that acted as the mechanism of transportation to bring these gems to the surface. Some volcanically transported sapphires are found in the U.S. state of Montana, as well as where other volcanic formations such as rhyolites (silica-rich volcanic rocks) or lamprophyres (potassic,

Figure 3. Sawn jadeite boulders, 650 kg total. Jadeite formed in ancient subduction zones where the circulation of fluids brought together all the necessary chemical components to form jadeite. These pieces clearly demonstrate the involvement of fluid flow in the formation of the jadeite. Photo by Wim Vertriest.

Figure 2. Faceted peridot sitting atop a 1.029 kg peridot nodule contained within the host basalt. The nodule of peridot was sourced from the earth’s mantle brought up as a xenolith in the basalt as it travelled to the earth’s surface. Photo by Orasa Weldon.

magnesium-/iron-rich volcanic rocks) would have been involved. In contrast to many colored stones, these sapphires and rubies formed in an extensional rather than a compressional tectonic setting in the crust. In this situation, thinning of the crust allowed for upwelling and eruption of magmas largely derived from the mantle, such as alkali basalts. It is important to point out that the sapphires and rubies were only transported by these basalts—not formed within or by the basalts themselves. Analysis of inclusions within the basalt-related gem sapphires— including feldspar, pyrochlore [(Na,Ca)2Nb2O6(OH,F)], zircon (ZrSiO4), and melt inclusions—indicates their formation from syenitic-type magmas. These sodium-rich silicate magmas likely formed near the boundary between the earth’s crust and mantle and may be related to metasomatism, or the circulation of hot fluids, in the earth’s mantle (Graham et al., 2008; Giuliani and Groat, 2019). The basalt-related rubies likely formed from a more aluminous and mafic (magnesium- and iron-rich) protolith. The rubies have been suggested to have formed through metamorphism of such protoliths, although the identification of melt inclusions in these basalt-related rubies suggests the involvement of melting or magmatic processes in their formation (Palke et al., 2018).

Deep Crustal Gems. The rocks at the earth’s surface contain a tremendous record of the geological evolution of our planet. Since the beginning of the earth’s history, the primary dynamic force has been the slow transfer of heat from deep in the core

and mantle to the surface. This heat transfer is the engine for convection in the mantle and the slow drift of the tectonic plates at the surface. Earth’s continental crust has grown and evolved with these processes, meaning the crust serves as a sort of record of tectonic activity. Many geologists have spent their careers tracing out fault lines, dating rocks, and connecting the dots on geological formations to understand how the continents have been variously ripped apart and sutured together again. Geologists specializing in tectonics use specific tectonic events, especially orogenic (or mountain-building) events involving the collision of two or more continents, as markers of the passage of geological time. In fact, most colored stone deposits are the direct result of these collisional orogenic events, with the intense heat, pressure, and fluid movement generated acting as the catalyst for crystallization of gemmy crystals of corundum, beryl (Be3Al2Si6O18), and garnet [(Ca,Mg,Fe)3(Al,Fe)2Si3O12].

However, some of these gems were formed at more extreme conditions and record a view of the deep earth not seen in most other precious stones.

Modern collisional tectonic events are generally initiated with subduction of oceanic crust beneath the continental crust and down into the mantle. Subduction of the oceanic crust has been linked to the formation of deep diamonds as far down as the lower mantle (Smith and Nestola, 2021). This process is also responsible for the formation of one of the most sought-after colored stones: jadeite jade (figure 3). A high-pressure mineral

Figure 4. Schematic diagram of a jadeite formation environment in a subduction zone. As oceanic crust is subducted, material builds up in an accretionary prism. Further down, jadeite forms in a high-pressure serpentinite mélange at roughly high-pressure, low-temperature (HPLT) conditions. To reach the surface, this jadeite must be transported from 20 to 80 km in exhumation channels. Lithological variations and thermal structures are modified after Gerya (2011). High-pressure serpentinite mélange, location of exhuming high-pressure rocks, and environment of jadeite formation are based on Stern et al. (2013). Used with permission from Tsujimori and Ernst (2014).

rich in sodium, aluminum, and silicon, jadeite (NaAlSi2O6) is a unique record of the fate of rocks and fluids subducted into the earth. Estimates of the geological conditions for jadeite mineralization indicate depths from below about 20 km to an astonishing 80 km below the surface of the earth (Stern et al., 2013; Harlow et al., 2015). At these great depths, the immense pressure of the overlying rock column enhances the solubility in water of certain chemical components, including sodium, aluminum, and silicon. The fluids trapped by the subducted oceanic crust (mostly water) can dissolve these necessary chemical components from their host rock and migrate upward into the overlying mantle wedge including oceanic crustal rocks, and forming the so-called mélange matrix. As these fluids make their way up into the mélange matrix, the dissolved chemical components precipitate out and crystallize jadeite in veins representing the original fluid flow pathways. The truly astonishing aspect of this is the fact that these deep rocks can now be found right at the earth’s surface. Jadeite deposits represent the movement of subducted material from 20–80 km up to the surface in exhumation channels either during or after the cessation of subduction and collision (figure 4). Jadeite deposits are useful as markers and indicators, both geographically and temporally, of fossil subduction and collisional tectonic events.

One final example of a colored gemstone recording deep geological processes comes from the Dora Maira garnets found in the Italian Alps (figure 5). These are unique in the world in being nearly pure pyrope garnets (Mg3Al2Si3O12). Their formation would have required extreme pressures as

well as a very magnesium-rich and relatively iron-poor source (protolith). Petrological studies of these garnets and their host rocks indicate formation at depths of around 120 km (Chopin and Schertl, 1999). This means Dora Maira pyrope garnets formed in the diamond stability field at a depth where some lithospheric diamonds may have been sourced (Hermann, 2003). The Dora Maira garnets could only have formed in what were originally continental crustal rocks, which generally cannot be subducted to such great depths due to the generally buoyant nature of the continental crust. The Dora Maira deposit is proof that in some extraordinary conditions during continental collisional events, some continental crust can be essentially subducted into the earth. What is even more surprising is that age-dating of zircons associated with these garnets suggests that the Dora Maira mass would have moved from a depth of around 120 km in a timescale of only 5–6 Ma, an astonishingly brief period in a geological sense. Colored Stones and the Earth’s Crust Geological study of the deep earth is fundamental to an understanding of plate tectonics, the earth’s evolution, and the overall dynamics of our planet. However, most colored stones are formed through geological processes at work from a few tens of kilometres deep right up to the earth’s surface, essentially. The interplay between the solid, rocky crust and the hydrosphere (all the earth’s water), the atmosphere, and the biosphere (all the earth’s life) gives rise to an enormous diversity of geological conditions, many of which are capable of producing fine gemstones through geological timescale. The processes occurring in the earth’s crust that are responsible for colored gemstone deposits will be the primary focus of future instalments of this column.

Figure 5. Pyrope garnets from Dora Maira, Italy. These garnets formed as part of the earth’s continental crust was subducted down to 120 km in the diamond stability field. The faceted stones range from 0.50 to 1.69 ct. Photo by Diego Sanchez; courtesy of Todd Wacks, Tucson Todd’s Gems.

BOX A: HOW DO WE KNOW THE INTERNAL STRUCTURE OF THE EARTH?

Figure A-1 shows the layered structure of the earth. The crust makes up the uppermost rocky layer down to about 35 km, with the mantle below. The mantle extends down to about 2,890 km and is divided into three parts: the upper mantle, the lower mantle, and an intermediate transition zone between the two from 410 to 660 km. The divisions are based on major changes in the mineralogy and physical properties of each layer. While the crust is mostly made up of quartz and feldspar minerals, the mantle is more magnesium- and ironrich and silica-poor. The upper mantle is believed to be dominantly composed of minerals olivine, garnet, and pyroxenes. The major distinction between the upper and lower mantle is the transition to a mineralogy dominantly composed of bridgmanite [(Mg,Fe)SiO3] in the lower mantle with various phase transformations occurring in the so-called transition zone. Below the mantle is the core from 2,890 km to the earth’s centre. The core is made of an iron-nickel metal alloy and is divided into the solid inner core and molten outer core. Meteorites represent planetary cores formed at very different pressures and temperatures, and their minerals, such as olivine, are used to understand Earth’s core and structure.

But first, how do we know what we claim to know about the interior structure of the deep earth? The furthest underground humans have gone to directly observe deep rocks is 4 km below the surface at the Mponeng gold mine in South Africa. The deepest rocks brought to the surface directly in drill core sections have come from the Kola Superdeep Borehole in northwestern Russia, which reached depths of 12.26 km. However, this is only a fraction of the expected thickness of 35 km for the continental crust in this region. Indirectly, by geophysical methods and/or by analyzing parts of the deep earth brought to the surface by geological processes, geoscientists have been able to reconstruct the earth’s interior. Geoscientists can use several ways to study the interior of the earth:

1. The study of rocks, formed deep in the lower crust or upper mantle, that are brought to the earth’s surface by geological activity.

The collision of two continental plates can create conditions where one plate is carried (or subducted) by tectonic forces beneath an adjacent plate. This subduction can transport crustal rocks down into the upper mantle,

where they undergo metamorphism. Because they are less dense than the surrounding mantle rocks, these altered crustal rocks are sometimes gradually lifted back toward the surface and often carry with them pieces of mantle. When exposed at the surface by erosion, they become accessible to geologic study.

Volcanic eruptions, which produce igneous rocks such as basalt and andesite, occur along mid-oceanic ridges and above subduction zones. Igneous magmas can incorporate fragments of rocks (called xenoliths) as well as minerals (called xenocrysts) from regions of the lower crust or upper mantle through which the magmas pass. The example most familiar to gemologists is the transport of diamonds from deep in the earth to the surface by kimberlite or lamproite magmas.

2. The study of inclusions in lower crustal or upper mantle xenocrysts (crystals of different origin (xeno-) included within an igneous body such as diamond, garnet, olivine (peridot), and pyroxene) that sometimes incorporate inclusions of mineral grains that originated from the deep environment of xenocryst formation. Inclusions in diamonds are particularly important as they are insulated deep in the earth from alteration and other mineralogical changes over extended periods of geologic time. Some mineral inclusions containing certain radioactive elements can be age-dated to give some idea of when the host xenocryst formed.

3. Experimental studies carried out in a laboratory can also be used to understand the deep earth. Several types of high-pressure and high-temperature experiments can be conducted in order to better understand the formation, physical properties, and behavior of minerals and rocks under lower crust and upper mantle conditions. Such experiments allow geoscientists to verify observations of geological features made in the field. In these experiments, researchers artificially recreate the expected chemical composition of various parts of the earth – either the crust or mantle – and apply high pressures and temperatures to simulate conditions deep in the earth. Recovery of the experimental charge can allow insight into the mineralogy and composition of the deep earth.

The use of a diamond anvil cell allows researchers to subject small fragments of a test material to extreme

pressures by compressing the material in a pressure medium between the polished culets of two small diamonds. A tiny piece of ruby is included within the cell as a pressure indicator (since the wavelengths of the fl uorescence emission of ruby are known to change with pressure). The test material within the cell can be heated by external or internal means. It can also be viewed through the transparent anvils. While at high pressures such as those existing within the earth, the test material can be studied by absorption and emission spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction techniques.

4. Geophysical studies allow us to measure and record time and intensity variations in energy and other types of signals travelling through the earth. These methods help determine changes in physical properties such as density and acoustic behavior among different rock types. Anyone who has ever

experienced an earthquake knows that energy waves travel from the source of the event. With an extensive network of seismometers deployed around the world, scientists can document the trajectories of seismic waves from earthquakes and underground explosions. These seismic waves can travel along the surface and below the surface, where they can be reflected through or refracted by the different internal zones. In an analogous fashion, variations in magnetic, gravitational, electrical, and electromagnetic signals (measured at the surface and in boreholes and sometimes obtained by regional aerial surveys) can also help us understand the earth’s internal structure.

5. Planetary studies and meteorite research have allowed scientists to gain information about the earth’s interior. Meteorites originate from inside the solar system, and most are fragments of asteroids that broke apart long ago in the

Inner Core 5150–6370 km

Outer Core 2890–5150 km

Lower Mantle 670–2890 km

Upper Mantle 35–670 km

Crust 0–35 km

Figure A-1. Schematic diagram of the internal structure of the earth showing the crust, upper and lower mantle, and outer and inner core. The layered structure is a result of changes in mineralogy caused by changes in composition and/or increasing pressure and temperature with increasing depth. The cutaway diagram is not drawn to scale.

Dora Maira garnets could only have formed in what were originally continental crustal rocks, which generally cannot be subducted to such great depths due to the generally buoyant nature of the continental crust. The Dora Maira deposit is proof that in some extraordinary conditions during continental collisional events, some continental crust can be essentially subducted into the earth. What is even more surprising is that age-dating of zircons associated with these garnets suggests that the Dora Maira massif would have moved from a depth of around 120 km in a timescale of only 5–6 Ma, an astonishingly brief period in a geological sense.

“asteroid belt” located between Mars and Jupiter. The iron-nickel alloy composition of a number of meteorites is thought to be similar in composition to the molten inner core of the earth. These so-called chondritic meteorites are particularly useful for understanding the composition

of the earth, as these are thought to have “primitive” compositions representing the original composition of the solar system. The compositions of these chondritic meteorites can also be used as a proxy or an estimate of the bulk composition of the earth.

derstanding of plate tectonics, the earth’s evolution, and the overall dynamics of our planet. However, most colored stones are formed through geological processes at work from a few tens of kilometers deep right up to the earth’s surface, essentially. The interplay between the solid, rocky crust and the hydrosphere (all the earth’s water), the atmosphere, and the biosphere (all the earth’s life) gives rise to an enormous diversity of geological conditions, many of which are capable of producing fine gemstones through geological timescale. The processes occurring in the earth’s crust that are responsible for colored gemstone deposits will be the primary focus of future installments of this column.

REFERENCES

amond stability field at a depth where some lithospheric diamonds may have been sourced (Hermann, 2003). The Dora Maira garnets could only have formed in what were originally continental crustal rocks, which generally cannot be subducted to such great depths due to the generally buoyant nature of the continental crust. The Dora Maira deposit is proof that in some extraordinary conditions during continental collisional events, some continental crust can be essentially subducted into the earth. What is even more surprising is that age-dating of zircons associated with these garnets suggests that the Dora Maira massif would have moved from a depth of around 120 km in a timescale of only 5–6 Ma, an astonishingly brief period in a geological sense.

Chopin C., Schertl H.P. (1999) The UHP unit in the Dora-Maira massif, western Alps. International Geology Review, Vol. 41, No. 9, pp. 765–780, http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00206819909465168

Gerya T. (2011) Future directions in subduction modeling. Journal of Geodynamics, Vol. 52, No. 5, pp. 344–378, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jog.2011.06.005

Colored Stones and the Earth’s Crust Geological study of the deep earth is fundamental to an understanding of plate tectonics, the earth’s evolution, and the overall dynamics of our planet. However, most colored stones are formed through geological processes at work from a few tens of kilometers deep right up to the earth’s surface, essentially. The interplay between the solid, rocky crust and the hydrosphere (all the earth’s water), the atmosphere, and the biosphere (all the earth’s life) gives rise to an enormous diversity of geological conditions, many of which are capable of producing fine gemstones through geological timescale. The processes occurring in the earth’s crust that are responsible for colored gemstone deposits will be the primary focus of future installments of this column.

olivine single crystal. Physics and Chemistry of Minerals, Vol. 26, No. 1, pp. 1–6, http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s002690050155

Liu W., Kung J., Li B. (2005) Elasticity of San Carlos olivine to 8 GPa and 1073 K. Geophysical Research Letters, Vol. 32, No. 16, http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2005GL023453

REFERENCES

Giuliani G., Groat L.A. (2019) Geology of corundum and emerald gem deposits: A review. G&G, Vol. 55, No. 4, pp. 464–489, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.55.4.464

Palke A.C., Wong J., Verdel C., Ávila J.N. (2018) A common origin for Thai/Cambodian rubies and blue and violet sapphires from Yogo Gulch, Montana, USA? American Mineralogist, Vol. 103, No. 3, pp. 469–479, http://dx.doi.org/10.2138/am-2018-6164

Graham I., Sutherland L., Zaw K., Nechaev V., Khanchuk A. (2008) Advances in our understanding of the gem corundum deposits of the West Pacific continental margins intraplate basaltic fields. Ore Geology Reviews, Vol. 34, No. 1-2, pp. 200–215, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oregeorev.2008.04.006

Chopin C., Schertl H.P. (1999) The UHP unit in the Dora-Maira massif, western Alps. International Geology Review, Vol. 41, No. 9, pp. 765–780, http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/00206819909465168

Gerya T. (2011) Future directions in subduction modeling. Journal of Geodynamics, Vol. 52, No. 5, pp. 344–378, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jog.2011.06.005

Giuliani G., Groat L.A. (2019) Geology of corundum and emerald gem deposits: A review. G&G, Vol. 55, No. 4, pp. 464–489, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.55.4.464

Harlow G.E., Tsujimori T., Sorensen S.S. (2015) Jadeitites and plate tectonics. Annual Review of Earth and Planetary Sciences, Vol. 43, No. 1, pp. 105–138, http://dx.doi.org/10.1146/annurevearth-060614-105215

Graham I., Sutherland L., Zaw K., Nechaev V., Khanchuk A. (2008) Advances in our understanding of the gem corundum deposits of the West Pacific continental margins intraplate basaltic fields. Ore Geology Reviews, Vol. 34, No. 1-2, pp. 200–215, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.oregeorev.2008.04.006

Hermann J. (2003) Experimental evidence for diamond-facies metamorphism in the Dora-Maira massif. Lithos, Vol. 70, No. 3-4, pp. 163–182, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S00244937(03)00097-5

Kubo T., Ohtani E., Kato T., Shinmei T., Fujino K. (1998) Experimental investigation of the α-β transformation of San Carlos

Harlow G.E., Tsujimori T., Sorensen S.S. (2015) Jadeitites and plate tectonics. Annual Review of Earth and Planetary Sciences, Vol. 43, No. 1, pp. 105–138, http://dx.doi.org/10.1146/annurevearth-060614-105215

Hermann J. (2003) Experimental evidence for diamond-facies metamorphism in the Dora-Maira massif. Lithos, Vol. 70, No. 3-4, pp. 163–182, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S00244937(03)00097-5

Kubo T., Ohtani E., Kato T., Shinmei T., Fujino K. (1998) Experimental investigation of the α-β transformation of San Carlos

REFERENCES gia.edu/gems-gemology

Smith E.M., Nestola F. (2021) Super‐deep diamonds: Emerging deep mantle insights from the past decade. In H. Marquardt et al., Eds., Mantle Convection and Surface Expressions. Wiley, Hoboken, New Jersey, pp. 179–192, http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/9781119528609.ch7

olivine single crystal. Physics and Chemistry of Minerals, Vol. 26, No. 1, pp. 1–6, http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s002690050155

Liu W., Kung J., Li B. (2005) Elasticity of San Carlos olivine to 8 GPa and 1073 K. Geophysical Research Letters, Vol. 32, No. 16, http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2005GL023453

Stern R.J., Tsujimori T., Harlow G., Groat L.A. (2013) Plate tectonic gemstones. Geology, Vol. 41, No. 7, pp. 723–726, http://dx.doi.org/10.1130/G34204.1

Palke A.C., Wong J., Verdel C., Ávila J.N. (2018) A common origin for Thai/Cambodian rubies and blue and violet sapphires from Yogo Gulch, Montana, USA? American Mineralogist, Vol. 103, No. 3, pp. 469–479, http://dx.doi.org/10.2138/am-2018-6164

Tollan P.M., O’Neill H.S.C., Hermann J. (2018) The role of trace elements in controlling H incorporation in San Carlos olivine. Contributions to Mineralogy and Petrology, Vol. 173, No. 11, pp. 1–23, http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00410-018-1517-7

Smith E.M., Nestola F. (2021) Super‐deep diamonds: Emerging deep mantle insights from the past decade. In H. Marquardt et al., Eds., Mantle Convection and Surface Expressions. Wiley, Hoboken, New Jersey, pp. 179–192, http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/9781119528609.ch7

Tsujimori T., Ernst W.G. (2014) Lawsonite blueschists and lawsonite eclogites as proxies for palaeo‐subduction zone processes: A review. Journal of Metamorphic Geology, Vol. 32, No. 5, pp. 437–454, http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/jmg.12057

Stern R.J., Tsujimori T., Harlow G., Groat L.A. (2013) Plate tectonic gemstones. Geology, Vol. 41, No. 7, pp. 723–726, http://dx.doi.org/10.1130/G34204.1

Tollan P.M., O’Neill H.S.C., Hermann J. (2018) The role of trace elements in controlling H incorporation in San Carlos olivine. Contributions to Mineralogy and Petrology, Vol. 173, No. 11, pp. 1–23, http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00410-018-1517-7

For online access to all issues of GEMS & GEMOLOGY from 1934 to the present, visit:

Tsujimori T., Ernst W.G. (2014) Lawsonite blueschists and lawsonite eclogites as proxies for palaeo‐subduction zone processes: A review. Journal of Metamorphic Geology, Vol. 32, No. 5, pp. 437–454, http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/jmg.12057

For online access to all issues of GEMS & GEMOLOGY from 1934 to the present, visit:

gia.edu/gems-gemology

ABOUT THE AUTHORS

Dr. Smith is a research scientist specializing in diamond geology at GIA in New York. Dr. Smit is a senior lecturer in diamond geology and isotope geochemistry at the University of the Witwatersrand, South Africa. Dr. Shirey is a senior staff scientist in geology/isotope geochemistry at the Earth & Planets Laboratory at the Carnegie Institution for Science in Washington, DC.

396 COLORED STONES UNEARTHED GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2021

396 COLORED STONES UNEARTHED GEMS & GEMOLOGY WINTER 2021

SSEF launches global service for melee diamonds down to 0,5 mm

The testing batches were doped with both synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants, all of which were detected and sorted out by the ASDI-500 device.

pleased make available this new authentication service to our customers,” said Jean-Pierre Chalain, Project Manager and Director of the diamond department at the SSEF.

THE ASDI-500, DEVELOPED WITH SWISS robotics company UNIMEC SA, is able to screen very large quantities of round, colourless, polished melee, detecting and extracting synthetics and simulants from among the natural diamonds.

The positive results from testing ASDI500 have provided a green light for the inauguration of a testing service for round, colourless diamond melee down to 0,5 mm in size for both the Swiss and international diamond and jewellery trade.

The validation programme began after the SSEF and UNIMEC SA first introduced the ASDI-500 at the GemGenève Show in November 2022. The programme involved the screening of more than 500 000 round diamonds with diameters ranging from 0,50-3,80 mm, using a strict double-checked internal procedure.

The ASDI-500 device uses a built-in high-precision robot entirely manufactured by UNIMEC SA. It picks up the diamonds individually, latching onto them while they are in the pavilion-up position. A special nozzle was designed so that the diamonds’ culets are never in direct contact with the robot’s pick-and-place mechanism. This protects the tip of the diamond, or culet, from any damage during the testing procedure.

“Ten years after launching the ASDI device, the first-ever device developed to authenticate large batches of small diamonds, the SSEF and UNIMEC are proud to offer the diamond industry the ASDI-500. This is a nextgeneration instrument that allows automated diamond authentication, especially in the size segment of 1,00-0,50 mm, for which no automated solution existed thus far. We’re

“To sustain consumer confidence, it’s necessary to develop high-quality and reliable screening solutions that have been adapted to watchmaking needs,” said Dominique Dubugnon, Head of the Gemmological Commission at the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH. “It’s essential to maintain the high level of quality for which the Swiss industry is known.”

The ASDI-500 is being presented by UNIMEC SA (booth G42) at the EPHJ show (Geneva, 6-9 June 2023). Dr Michael Mintrone, Research Scientist at the SSEF, will deliver a presentation about ASDI-500 at the “Advances in Gem and Diamond Research and Technology” symposium running from 3-4 October 2023 in Mumbai, India.

For further information on the service, visit: www.ssef.ch/small-diamonds.

The Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) has announced the successful conclusion of validation testing of the ASDI-500, the newest version of the Automated Diamond Spectral Inspection device.

The programme involved the screening of more than 500 000 round diamonds with diameters ranging from 0,50-3,80 mm. The testing batches were doped with both synthetic diamonds and diamond simulants, all of which were detected and sorted out by the ASDI-500 device.

(Far right): Using different laser sources and ultra-fast proprietary algorithms (0,03 milliseconds), the ASDI-500 robot can detect a diamond, a possible synthetic diamond or a simulant and then separate it from a batch.

(Right): The ASDI-500 Automated Diamond Spectral Inspection system, jointly developed by SSEF and UNIMEC.

Photos: SSEF

Interesting facts

 Mikimoto Kökichi was a Japanese pearl farmer, inventor of the cultured pearl and businessperson who developed the commercial production of cultured pearls. Mikimoto observed that many of his pearls were bought by foreign sailors and tourists, and decided to open a shop in the entertainment district of Ginza, in Tokyo. The name of Mikimoto became one of the first Japanese brands to attain an international presence and recognition. He took advantage of every opportunity to personally promote the beauty and elegance of his pearls, presenting his works in exhibitions throughout the world.

There are 45 792 jewellery store businesses in the USA as of 2023. California has the highest number, with 6 594, New York with 5 522 and Florida with 4 748.

 The South African Mint released the very first Krugerrand gold coin in 1967. At a time of great political upheaval and uncertainty, SA made the decision to strike its own gold coin. While previous gold coins had been struck primarily for the rich, the Krugerrand gold coin was designed as the ‘working man’s coin’ - a coin for the hard-working wider population who wanted to preserve their savings.

 Jewellery in literature affects society. For example, people in Europe used to love opals. They were very valuable. Then Sir Walter Scott wrote a novel where the protagonist had an opal that touched holy water. She died soon after. This popular book led to a drastic decrease in the popularity of opals. To this day, people in many areas regard them as unlucky.

 Rubies obtain their colour from corundum. Pure corundum is colourless and made up of aluminium and oxygen. In order to gain colour, it must come into contact with small amounts of chromium. The chromium replaces some of the aluminium in the stone’s structure and it becomes a red ruby.

 In 2013 and 2014, Gemfields decided to spend over one-third of its $15 million marketing budget to have Mila Kunis be the face of its emeralds.

 LVMH stands for Louis Vuitton and Moët and Hennessy and is the world’s largest retailer of luxury goods, including jewellery. Its most famous jewellery brands include Bvlgari, Hublot, De Beers and TAG Heuer. The company is based in Paris, France, but it generates 24% of its $52,9 billion in annual revenue in the USA.

 The word “watch” comes from the old English “waecce”, which meant “to keep an eye on and be awake”. This is also, of course, where we get the term ”watchman” or ”night watchman”. Since we keep an eye on the clock, it makes sense that these two words are synonyms.

 A pair of jeans has a small pocket above the pocket. This was originally used to store a pocket watch.

 There are several beliefs and traditions associated with wearing earrings. In the early days, when a sailor pierced his earlobe, it meant that he had completed his sail around the globe or crossed the Equator.

Approximately 80% of mined diamonds become industrial diamonds.

 Pyrite was referred to as marcasite until the 19th century, when it was found to be fundamentally different. This is precisely why most marcasite jewellery features pyrite as the main compound.

 Platinum, once known as “white gold”, has a number of useful properties, which explains its application in a wide range of industries. It is extremely resistant to tarnishing and corrosion (which makes it known as a “noble metal”) and is very soft and malleable, making it easy to shape. It is also ductile, making it easy to stretch into wire, and unreactive, which means it does not oxidise and is unaffected by common acids.

 The jewellery industry is worth $298,40 billion, globally.

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Tel no: 084 247 0358

E-mail: mail@worldofauthor.com

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERSRIVERSIDE LIFESTYLE CENTRE

Tel: 013 757 0827

E-mail: ron@aztecjewellers.com; kyle@aztecjewellers.com

Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

AZTEC MANUFACTURING JEWELLERSVALLEY HYPER

Tel: 013 757 0827

E-mail: Ron@aztecjewellers.com

Website: www.aztecjewellers.com

BEADZ BY FLEX

Tel no: 083 967 3264

E-mail: info@beadzbyflex.co.za

Website: www.beadzbyflex.co.za

BEAUDELL DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 885 8303

E-mail: esther@beaudell.co.za

Website: www.beaudell.co.za

BEAUTIFUL SELECTION (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 072 658 0166

E-mail: admin@beautifulselection.co.za

BEN & CO DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 072 056 2156

E-mail: bheki@ben-codesigns.com; info@ben-codesigns.com

Website: www.ben-codesigns.com

BERNARD’S JEWELLERY DESIGN & MANUFACTURE

Tel no: 032 586 0889

E-mail: bernard@bernardsjewellery.co.za

Website: https://watchesforsale.co.za/

BIJOU EXQUISITE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 450 4320

E-mail: marnic@bijoujewellery.international

Website: https://www.bijoujewellery.international/

BO KOOK HANDMADE JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 560 5064

E-mail: info@bokook.co.za

BRAND ATHENA A

Tel: 072 272 3089

E-mail: info@brandathenaa.co.za

BRETTLAND POULSEN DESIGNER GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 031 562 8009

E-mail: bretland@iafrica.com

Website: www.brettlands.co.za

BRIAN BOSMAN GOLDSMITH STUDIO

Tel no: 011 616 5328

E-mail: divagoldsmith@yahoo.com

BRONSKI JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 852 7891

E-mail: seanscrase@hotmail.com

BROWNS THE DIAMOND STORE – WORKSHOP

Tel no: 011 438 7920

E-mail: albert@brownsjewellers.com

Website: www.brownsjewellers.com

BULLION STAR (PTY) LTD

Tel: 011 202 5021

E-mail: bullionstr@gmail.com

CADTOCRAFT (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 781 0303

E-mail: johanwessels12@gmail.com

CAPE DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 421 5364

E-mail: joelgraham@capediamonds.co.za

Website: www.capediamonds.co.za

CAPE PENINSULA UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 021 460 3632

E-mail: konstandakellisv@cput.ac.za; camerondowl@cput.ac.za

Website: www.cput.ac.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 551 2066

E-mail: sharon@cpmct.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – DURBAN

Tel no: 031 303 5402

E-mail: malcolm@cpmdbn.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS – GERMISTON

Tel no: 011 334 6263

E-mail: shannon@cpmjhb.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CAPE PRECIOUS METALS PE/GQEBERHA

Tel no: 041 365 1890

E-mail: renee@capepreciousmetals.co.za

Website: www.capepreciousmetals.co.za

CARESS JEWELLERS UITENHAGE CC

Tel no: 041 992 4421

E-mail: eben-caress@mweb.co.za

CENTRAL UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY FREE STATE – WELKOM

Tel no: 051 507 4044

E-mail: eholmes@cut.ac.za; nmphore@cut.ac.za

Website: www.cut.ac.za

CHARL DE BEER

Tel no: 012 440 7693

E-mail: leatherw@mweb.co.za; charldebeer@hotmail.com

CHARLES NORMAN DIAMONDS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 083 557 3252

E-mail: rishan@charlesnormandiamonds.com

CHARLENE NEL T/A BELLA COSA

Tel no: 021 975 5097

E-mail: charlene@bellacosa.co.za

CHATEAU D’OR CC

Tel no: 011 728 3741/3723

E-mail: denlincoln@mweb.co.za

Website: www.chateaudorjewellers.com

CORNERSTONE MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 599 5919

E-mail: cornerstonelof@gmail.com

CREATIVE DESIGN MANUFACTURERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 031 563 3987

E-mail: goldlink@iafrica.com

D FABRIK (PTY) LTD

Tel: 011 327 7926

E-mail: deon.denysschen@gmail.com

DABERON MANUFACTURING (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 334 8841

E-mail: daberon1@gmail.com

DALEEN BRUWER JEWELLERY DESIGN & GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 023 342 7808

E-mail: db@xsinet.co.za

DANIEL JACOBS JEWELLERY DESIGN CC

Tel no: 021 880 1026

E-mail: djjd@mweb.co.za

DAVID BOLDING GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 021 418 1049/1612

E-mail: david@dbgold.co.za; marele@dbgold.co.za

DC JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 691 3692

E-mail: dcjewel@mweb.co.za

DEGLON JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 3182

E-mail: waynedeglon@telkomsa.net

Website: www.waynedeglondesign.withtank.com

DEON SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel: 083 454 2161

E-mail: deonsmithjewellery@gmail.com; drdwsmith63@gmail.com; deon@deonsmithjewellery.com

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS' ASSOCIATION OF SOUTH AFRICA

DESIGNER GOLD BUSINESS TRUST

Tel no: 043 726 2291

E-mail: info@designergold.co.za

Website: www.designergold-el.co.za

DIA-KIM DIAMONDS

T/A CHRISTOPHER REID

Tel no: 021 418 4484

E-mail: nick@christopherreid.co.za

Website: www.christopherreid.co.za

DIAMANTE ANTWERP

Tel: 072 830 5656

E-mail: info@diamanteantwerp.com

DIAMONDS4EVER

Tel no: 082 786 7677

E-mail: info@diamonds4ever.co.za

Website: www.diamonds4ever.co.za

DIDIDESIGN

Tel no: 011 784 0369

E-mail: didi@dididesign.co.za

Website: www.dididesign.co.za

DLR JEWELLERS

Tel: 057 101 0359

E-mail: carol@dlracc.co.za

DR ESME SPICER

Tel no: 073 239 9983

E-mail: esme.spicer@gmail.com

DURBAN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 031 373 6673/6

E-mail: chrisdb@dut.ac.za; samanthav@dut.ac.za

Website: www.dut.ac.za

ECO CHIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 553 0332

E-mail: e.m.duplooy@gmail.com

EDEL DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 072 636 0213

E-mail: edeldesignerjewellery@gmail.com

EKURHULENI JEWELLERY PROJECT

Tel no: 011 825 5822

E-mail: colin@ejewellery.org.za

Website: www.ejewellery.org.za

ELEMENTAL STUDIO

Tel no: 084 507 7777

E-mail: lezamcleod@icloud.com

Website: www.elementalstudio.co.za

EMBER MANUFACTURING & DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 557 5190

E-mail: info@ember.co.za

Website: www.ember.co.za

ENZA MANAGEMENT SERVICES

Tel no: 031 824 9427

E-mail: khulile@imarajewellery.com

EON HOON JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 083 578 7447

E-mail: eon@eonhoon.com

Website: www.eonhoon.com

ERICA STRAUSS DESIGNER JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 021 851 8120

E-mail: artwear@telkomsa.net

ETERNITY ENTERPRISE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 018 290 5722/3

E-mail: info@eternityenterprise.com; daleen@eternityenterprise.com

Website: www.eternityenterprise.com

EVERTRADE 142 (PTY) LTD T/A D’OURO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 3402

E-mail: dourojhb@vodamail.co.za; a.veloso@dourojewellers.co.za

Website: www.dourojewellers.co.za

FACET JEWELLERY

Tel no: 073 397 8820

E-mail: catherine@facetjewellery.co.za

FARIED JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 671 5529

E-mail: insaaf.achmat@gmail.com; fachmat@gmail.com

FEMKE KLEISEN DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 787 6120

E-mail: femkekleisen@webafrica.org.za

Website: www.femkekleisen.co.za

FERROS JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 363 1881

E-mail: alex@ferrosjewellers.com

Website: www.ferrosjewellers.com

FINEGOLD LABORATORY SERVICES

Tel no: 021 511 6237

E-mail: admin@finegold.co.za

Website: www.finegold.co.za

FOREVER JEWELLERY MANUFACTURERS

Tel no: 031 564 9006

E-mail: fj@3i.co.za

FRANKLI WILD

Tel no: 011 483 2620

E-mail: kgf@frankliwild.com

Website: www.frankliwild.com

G HARRIS DESIGN STUDIOS CC

Tel no: 021 555 1437

E-mail: harrisjewellers@telkomsa.net; gharris@telkomsa.net

Website: www.harrisjewellers.net

GATTOO JEWELLERY DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 011 852 2046

E-mail: gattoosdesign@gmail.com

GAUTA REFINERIES (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 753 3304

E-mail: rudi@gautarefinery.com

Website: https://www.gautarefinery.com/

GEM AFRIQUE

Tel no: 062 050 6479

E-mail: soni2.goldsmith@gmail.com

GERHARD MOOLMAN FINE JEWELLERY

Tel: 021 914 0838

E-mail: gerhard@gmfinejewellery.co.za

GLOBAL JEWELLERY ACADEMY

Tel no: 082 337 6428

E-mail: robertb@globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

Website: www.globaljewelleryacademy.co.za

GOLD AND I (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 084 360 6762

E-mail: info@goldandi.co.za

Website: www.goldandi.co.za

GOLDFASHION JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 021 931 1319

E-mail: mhendricks@wsnet.co.za; goldfashion@telkomsa.net

GOUDSMID TEHILA VAN ENGELENHOVEN

Tel no: 082 674 4410

E-mail: tehila@absamail.co.za

GRYPHON MOSS

Tel: 082 049 2488

E-mail: kate@gryphonmoss.co.za

HAUPT JUWELEN (PTY) LTD

Tel: 072 587 0055

E-mail: info@hauptjuwelen.co.za

HAVILAH GOLD CREATIONS

Tel no: 041 581 1942

E-mail: design@havilah.co.za; carol@havilah.co.za

Website: www.havilah.co.za

HEATHER JANE SMITH CERAMICS & PORCELAIN

Tel no: 064 915 4282

E-mail: ladyheatherette@gmail.com

HELEN MICHALETOS

Tel: 082 342 1577

E-mail: helen.michaletos@gmail.com

HESTI PRINSLOO T/A FETTER-AND-THREE

Tel: 082 855 9088

E-mail: hesti@fetter-and-three.co.za

HOLLY CROSS JEWELLERY

Tel: 079 477 2729

E-mail: vhaswayouth@gmail.com

ICKINGER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 015 307 4448

E-mail: jacques@ickinger.co.za

Website: www.ickinger.co.za

iKE YKE

Tel: 083 225 0425

E-mail: michael@eqimpact.co.za

IMFUNDISO SKILLS DEVELOPMENT

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

IMPILO COLLECTION

Tel no: 010 0210441

E-mail: ayeung@impilocollection.co.za

Website: www.facebook.com/impilocollection

INGE SCHOLTZ JEWELLERYDESIGNER & MANUFACTURER

Tel no: 073 271 3789

E-mail: admin@csvaluers.co.za

ISA B JEWELLERY DESIGNS

E-mail: bothmaisabel09@gmail.com

ISABELLA JEWELLERS & REFINERS CC

Tel no: 011 334 5919

E-mail: isabella@isabella-refiners.co.za

Website: www.isabella-refiners.co.za

J HIND JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 306 1330

E-mail: jhindrajesh@gmail.com

Website: https://www.jhindjewellers.co.za/

JAGGATH JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 307 7790

E-mail: navinjagath372@gmail.com

JANINE BINNEMAN JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 021 715 6178

E-mail: info@janinebinneman.com

Website: https://janinebinneman.com/

JEWEL CRAFT – BRANDHOF

Tel no: 051 444 3449

E-mail: rean.p@mweb.co.za

Website: www.jewelcraft.co.za

JEWELLERY CONNECTION

Tel no: 011 728 6800

E-mail: vmagnes@netactive.co.za

JEWELLERY CONSULTANCY

Tel no: 083 581 1513

E-mail: md.jewelleryconsultancy@gmail.com

Website: www.jewelleryconsultancy.co.za

JOHANNA VAN ZYL

Tel no: 082 778 5846

E-mail: jo@johannavanzyl.co.za

Website: www.johannavanzyl.co.za

JOHN 3 JEWELLERY

Tel no: 076 822 8783

E-mail: john3jewellery@gmail.com

JOHN STEDMAN

T/A ELEMENTAL DESIGN

Tel no: 031 572 2902

E-mail: john@elementaldesign.co.za

Website: www.elementaldesign.co.za

JOHREN MANUFACTURING CC

T/A THE JEWELLERY SHOP

Tel no: 046 624 3748

E-mail: johren@telkomsa.net

JOY MASSYN JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 662 2861

E-mail: joy@joymassyn.co.za

Website: http://www.joymassyn.com/

JUPITER'S JUNGLE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 061 503 6561

E-mail: admin@jupitersjungle.com

Website: www.jupitersjungle.com/www.ginawhite.com

JYARAS JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 067 397 6373

E-mail: admin@jyarasjewellers.co.za

Website: https://jyarasjewellers.co.za/contact/

K2 DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 031 940 1274

E-mail: khanyisile@k2designstudio.co.za

Website: www.k2designstudio.co.za

KARLIEN DESIGNS CC

Tel no: 083 659 2607

E-mail: karlien@karliendesigns.co.za

Website: www.karliendesigns.co.za

KARLSEN JEWELLERY CO

Tel no: 033 386 7872

E-mail: karlsen@jewelleryco.co.za

KATANNUTA DIAMONDS CC

Tel: 082 451 9429

E-mail: clare@katannutadiamonds.co.za; info@katannutadiamonds.co.za

KAYRO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 585 4842

E-mail: slaide.kayro@mweb.co.za

KEA-NTHABI’S AFRICAN DESIGN

Tel: 083 350 2737

E-mail: keanthabi1@gmail.com

KHONJE DESIGNS

Tel: 012 460 1569

E-mail: info@khonjedesigns.com

KIM CLOETE JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 021 531 9082

E-mail: kim@kimcloetedesign.co.za

Website: http://www.kimcloetedesign.co.za/

KINKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 786 1549

E-mail: info@kinkeljewellery.co.za

Website: www.kinkeljewellery.co.za

KNIGHT OF GREY T/A ELEGANTE

Tel: 011 825 5822

E-mail: elegantemagnificent@gmail.com

KRISTEN MALAN CC

Tel no: 011 880 1866

E-mail: kristen@merindol.com; john@merindol.com

KUSASA REFINING (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 001 6284

E-mail: greg.magid@kusasarefining.co.za; info@kusasarefining.co.za

LADY PECULIAR

Tel no: 021 886 8868

E-mail: info@ladypeculiar.co.za

Website: www.ladypeculiar.co.za

L’AUTRICHE FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 883 4021

E-mail: ernst@lebijoux.co.za

Website: www.lautrichefj.co.za

LEOPOLDINE DESIGNS

Tel no: 076 586 3820

E-mail: info@leopoldinedesigns.co.za

LILLY FRIEDLAENDER CC

Tel no: 021 887 1655

E-mail: lilly.f@wol.co.za

LIMPOPO JEWELLERY BUSINESS INCUBATOR

Tel no: 015 293 0214

E-mail: tessa@ljbi.org.za; mabatho@ljbi.org.za; siphelele@ljbi.org.za; admin@ljbi.org.za; shokky@ljbi.org.za

LORIEN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 967 1700

E-mail: heather@allanybrink.co.za

LOTTI JEWELLERY

Tel no: 079 386 1079

E-mail: info@lottijewellery.co.za

LOVI JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 011 882 3272

E-mail: lovijewellery@gmail.com

LYNDA MARION JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 651 8145

E-mail: silver@lyndamarion.com

M2 JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 012 460 6793

E-mail: maryna@m2jewellery.com

Website: www.m2jewellery.com

MADELIEF DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 453 7018

E-mail: madeliefjewellery@gmail.com

MADELINE’S TEMPTATIONS

Tel no: 083 305 2798

E-mail: info@madelinestemptations.co.za

Website: www.madelinestemptations.co.za

MAGGIE AFRICA

Tel no: 072 882 2586

E-mail: maggieroodt@telkomsa.net

MAGMA METAL RECOVERIES

Tel no: 031 702 4422

E-mail: edwards@astronet.co.za

MAPULA DESIGNER JEWELLER (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 641 2724

E-mail: mapuladesigner@gmail.com

Website: www.mapuladesignerjeweller.com

MARINE GOLD CC

Tel no: 021 424 0077

E-mail: stephen@marinegold.co.za

MARION’S JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 041 368 4582/3

E-mail: marionsstudio@mweb.co.za

MARK WHITEHORN GOLDSMITH

Tel no: 083 271 6065

E-mail: info@markwhitehorn.co.za

Website: https://markwhitehorn.co.za/

MARTIN MILLS GOLDFIELDS

Tel: 0727167632

E-mail: mmillsgoldfields@gmail.com

MASELESELE JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 734 0245

E-mail: imfundiso@mweb.co.za; imfundisojewellers@mweb.co.za

Website: www.imfundiso.com

MEDITERRANEAN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 0630

E-mail: panayiotis@mmjewellers.co.za

Website: http://www.mmjewellers.co.za/

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 510 0770

E-mail: cpt@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – CENTURION

Tel no: 012 000 4440

E-mail: info@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL CONCENTRATORS SA (PTY) LTD – DURBAN

E-mail: info@metcon.co.za

Website: www.metcon.co.za

METAL IMAGE

Tel no: 021 447 6600

E-mail: mi_greg@iafrica.com; mi_accounts@iafrica.com

Website: www.metalimage.co.za

MG IVORY

Tel no: 011 788 1018

E-mail: mgivory@netactive.co.za

MICHAEL J SOLOMON

MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS (MJS)

Tel no: 011 792 5292

E-mail: ms@absamail.co.za

MICHL CONTEMPORARY FINE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 913 3944

E-mail: michelleliaosa@gmail.com

Website: www.michljewellery.com

MINITZA

Tel: 082 77 29812

E-mail: info@minitza.co.za

MIRKO JEWELLERY

Tel no: 021 886 8296

E-mail: mirinda@mirkojewels.co.za

Website: http://mirkojewels.co.za/

MOON INVESTMENTS

Tel: 021 551 2066

E-mail: invest@mooninvest.co.za

MUGA MUGA HANDMADES

Tel no: 072 299 7148

E-mail: info@mugamuga.co.za

Website: www.mugamuga.co.za

MZANTSI DIAMOND MERCHANTS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 041 379 1162

E-mail: mzantsidiamonds@gmail.com

N.N JEWELLERS

Tel: 082 081 8179

E-mail: nico.nieuwoudt.nn@gmail.com

NEWMAN JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 012 329 9600

E-mail: nina@newmandesign.co.za; dave@newmandesign.co.za

NILU ENGRAVING & JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 384 7792

E-mail: laser@nilu.co.za

Website: www.nilu.co.za/

NINA BOSCH PORCELAIN

Tel: 079 891 7240

E-mail: info@ninabosch.co.za

NOVUS DESIGN STUDIO

Tel no: 012 332 5850

E-mail: info@novusdesign.co.za

Website: http://www.novusdesign.co.za/

NQ JEWELLERY DESIGN SERVICES

Tel no: 073 700 6225

E-mail: nq2jewel@gmail.com

Website: www.nqjewellery.co.za

NV DESIGN COMPANY

T/A BY NANETTE

Tel no: 021 883 3856

E-mail: nanette@bynanette.com

Website: www.bynanette.com

ORO AFRICA (PTY) LTD – CAPE TOWN

Tel no: 021 480 9860

E-mail: sharin@oroafrica.com

Website: www.oroafrica.com

OSMOND’S

Tel no: 021 559 8277

E-mail: osmond@telkomsa.net

PAUL GALLIAS

Tel no: 073 194 2415

E-mail: pgallias@hotmail.com

PEARL AND DIAMOND STUDIO

Tel no: 011 678 0595/6

E-mail: pearldiamond@mweb.co.za

Website: https://www.pearlanddiamond.co.za/

PETRA JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel: 021 789 0312

E-mail: info@petrajewellery.co.za

PHATSIMA JEWELLERY DESIGNS

Tel no: 072 739 6800

E-mail: phatsimantando@gmail.com; orders@phatsimajd.com

Website: www.phatsimajd.com

PHILIP ZETLER JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 423 2771

E-mail: pzetler@mweb.co.za

Website: www.philipzetlerjewellers.co.za

PHOENIX MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 549 4966

E-mail: jack@phoenixjewellers.co.za

Website: www.phoenixjewellers.co.za

PICCOLO FINE DESIGNER JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 396 6178

E-mail: suvette@piccolo-jewellery.co.za

Website: http://piccolo-jewellery.co.za/

PIYUVE JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 031 301 3963

E-mail: aroon@piyuvejewelers.co.za; shashi@piyuvejewelers.co.za

Website: www.piyuvejewelers.co.za

PNEUMA JEWELLERS CC

Tel no: 011 702 1462

E-mail: admin@pneumajewellers.com

Website: www.pneumajewellers.co.za

POPULAR DIAMOND

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURING CC

Tel no: 011 484 7044

E-mail: pop@tiscali.co.za

PRECIOUS ONE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 056 212 1229

E-mail: antonjewels@yahoo.com

PRECISION SETTERS

Tel no: 011 484 7803/4

E-mail: julian@precisionsetters.co.za

PRETTY FOUND THINGS

Tel no: 083 651 9042

E-mail: prettyfoundthings@gmail.com

Website: www.prettyfoundthings.co.za

PREVIDA & CO

Tel no: 011 701 5074

E-mail: previda@previdaandco.com

PRINS & PRINS DIAMONDS

Tel no: 021 422 1090

E-mail: petre@prinsandprins.com; riana@prinsandprins.com

Website: www.prinsandprins.com

QUICKSET JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 468 9236

E-mail: qsjewel@telkomsa.net; osjewel@telkomsa.net

Website: www.quicksetjewellers.co.za

RAMSDEN DIAMONDS

T/A OLYMPIA AVENUE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel: 011 404 5010

E-mail: info@olympia-avenue.co.za

RAND REFINERY LIMITED

Tel no: 011 418 9000

E-mail: nicolab@gold.co.za

Website: www.randrefinery.com

RARE EARTH CREATIONS

Tel no: 011 326 1727 E-mail: noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

Website: https://www.rareearth.co.za/

REC SET & ENGRAVE (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 326 1727

E-mail: neil@rarearth.co.za; noloyiso@rarearth.co.za

RICHLINE SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 418 1600

E-mail: johan@richlinesa.co.za; marco@richlinesa.co.za

Website: www.richlinegroup.co.za

RITCO MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 041 374 2101

E-mail: sales@ritco.co.za

Website: www.ritco.co.za

RODNEY CHANDLER JEWELLERS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 606 0493

E-mail: mcjewel@netactive.co.za

ROHAN CHERRY DESIGNS

Tel no: 082 974 4566

E-mail: info@rcdesigns.co.za

Website: www.rcdesign.co.za

ROK ORIGINALS

Tel no: 072 203 3288

E-mail: info@rokoriginals.com

Website: https://www.rokoriginals.com/

ROMANELLI DESIGNS (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 794 1666

E-mail: bling@romanellidesigns.co.za

Website: https://romanellidesigns.co.za/

RUTH PROWSE SCHOOL OF ART

Tel no: 021 447 2492

E-mail: admin@ruthprowse.co.za

Website: www.ruthprowse.co.za

SATHKAAR JEWELLERS C.C

Tel no: 031 306 4921

E-mail: sathkaar@gmail.com

SANDHAVON DIAMOND CUTTING WORKS

Tel no: 083 233 0910

E-mail: kevin@lutrin.co.za

SAVAGE JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 902 2302

E-mail: nicola@savagejewellery.com

SCANT DESIGN

Tel: 072 339 1885

E-mail: as@scant.co.za

SCARAB JEWELLERY STUDIO CC

Tel no: 021 683 4646

E-mail: janine@scarabjewellery.co.za; tanya@scarabjewellery.co.za

Website: www.scarabjewellery.co.za

SEA & SHORE

Tel: 082 742 5343

E-mail: seashore.resin@gmail.com

SERAGLIO JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 783 8301

E-mail: rolling.albert@yahoo.com

Website: www.seragliojewellers.com

SHADOW JEWELLERS

Tel no: 082 689 8297

E-mail: shadrackmogoane@yahoo.com

SHANI D JEWELLERY DESIGN (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 082 308 2111

E-mail: diamondshani@gmail.com

Website: http://www.shanidjewellery.co.za/

SIBAHLE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 049 3933

E-mail: nthabiseng@sibahlejewellery.co.za

Website: www.sibahlejewellery.co.za

SILK ROUTE GOLD (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 011 450 3192

E-mail: info@silkroutegold.com

Website: www.silkroutegold.com

SIMON EFUNE MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 334 4529

E-mail: simon.efune@mweb.co.za

SIRKEL JEWELLERY

Tel no: 011 726 2365

E-mail: sirkeldesign@gmail.com

Website: www.sirkeljewellery.co.za

SL HERMAN MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 012 460 6771

E-mail: slhj@telkomsa.net

Website: www.hermanmanufacturingjewellers.co.za

SMITH JEWELLERY

Tel no: 071 313 8649

E-mail: info@smith-jewellery.com

Website: www.smith-jewellery.com

STARBRIGHT JEWELLERY

Tel no: 083 775 9995

E-mail: megan@starbrightgirl.com

Website: https://www.starbrightgirl.com/

STUDIO 1980 (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 083 379 0171

E-mail: info@studio1980za.com

Website: https://studio1980za.com/

STUDIO 39 JEWELLERY DESIGN

Tel no: 031 764 3000

E-mail: studio39@telkomsa.net

Website: www.studio39.co.za

STUDIO C MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 642 7826

E-mail: chris@studioc.co.za; peggy@studioc.co.za

Website: www.studioc.co.za

STUDIO LOUBSER

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: liz@lizloubser.com; info@studioloubser.com

Website: www.studioloubser.com

SUGARBUSH CREATIONS

Tel no: 015 293 2358

E-mail: sugarbushcreations@gmail.com

SURITA DU TOIT FINE JEWELLERY (PTY) LTD

Tel: 082 779 7084

E-mail: info@suritadutoit.com

TASHA SWART CREATIONS

Tel: 082 523 9982

E-mail: tashaswart.creations@gmail.com

THATO RADEBE JEWELLERY

E-mail: thato@thatoradebejewellery.co.za

Website: https://thatoradebejewellery.co.za/

THE BERA DIAMOND ACADEMY

Tel no: 011 854 4556

E-mail: mmbera@gmail.com; muhammad.bera@absa.co.za

Website: http://www.benefittohumanity.com/

THE JABULANI CHARITABLE TRUST

Tel: 031 303 2396

E-mail: paula@jabulanijewellery.co.za; colleen@jabulanijewellery.co.za

THE JEWELLERY HUB

Tel no: 083 326 5746

E-mail: ian@worldofdiamonds.co.za; yolandi@worldofdiamonds.co.za

Website: www.worldofdiamonds.co.za

THE MAKERY

Tel no: 082 600 7142

E-mail: info@themakerycollection.com

Website: www.themakerycollection.com

THE PLATINUM INCUBATOR

Tel no: 014 597 0736

E-mail: sibongile@tpi.org.za

Website: www.tpi.org.za

TINSEL GALLERY

Tel no: 011 782 4051

E-mail: geraldine@tinsel.co.za

Website: https://tinselgallery.com/

TIP TOP JEWELLERS

Tel no: 044 873 3048

E-mail: tiptop@lantic.net

TRIMALCHIO

Tel no: 012 346 6874

E-mail: casanra@mweb.co.za

TRISLO (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 012 259 0100

E-mail: info@trislo.co.za

Website: www.trislo.co.za

TSHWANE UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY

Tel no: 012 382 6007

E-mail: newmand@tut.ac.za

Website: www.tut.ac.za

UNCUT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 083 225 8221

E-mail: mark@uncutjewellers.co.za

Website: www.uncutjewellers.co.za

UNIVERSITY OF JOHANNESBURG

Tel no: 011 559 1129/1125

E-mail: fnazier@uj.ac.za

Website: www.uj.ac.za

UNIVERSITY OF STELLENBOSCH

Tel no: 021 808 3047

E-mail: ct@sun.ac.za; Joani@sun.ac.za

Website: www.sun.ac.za/english/faculty/arts/visual-arts/

VAN DEIJL MANUFACTURING JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 914 2192

E-mail: info@vdmj.co.za

VAWDA GOLD GEM JEWELLERS

Tel no: 031 208 9142/3

E-mail: info@vawdagoldgem.co.za

Website: www.vawdagoldgem.co.za

VICTORIA ORPEN JEWELLERS

Tel no: 011 615 4758

E-mail: victoriaorpensa@gmail.com; roxanne.campbell07@gmail.com

VIJAY SHAH CONCEPTS

Tel no: 031 564 2948

E-mail: vijayshah@telkomsa.net; nihalshah23@gmail.com

Website: www.vijayshahjewellers.co.za

VK JEWELLERY

Tel no: 082 789 4498

E-mail: vivek@vkjewellery.co.za

Website: www.vkjewellery.co.za

WAINWRIGHT JEWELLERS

Tel no: 021 554 1169

E-mail: info@wainwrightjewel.co.za

Website: www.wainwrightjewel.co.za

WOOSH DESIGNS JEWELLERY STUDIO

Tel no: 011 318 1340

E-mail: wooshen@wooshjewellery.co.za

Website: www.wooshjewellery.co.za

YOL NOMADIC JEWELLERY

Tel no: 074 136 3633

E-mail: yol_lu@yahoo.fr

ZION PRECIOUS METALS (PTY) LTD

Tel: 010 109 2057

E-mail: compliance@zionpreciousmetals.com; depot@zionpreciousmetals.com

ZULU MIEN

Tel: 0823344426

E-mail: zulumien@gmail.com

ZUREL BROTHERS SA (PTY) LTD

Tel no: 015 293 2306/58

E-mail: zurelpolokwane@telkomsa.net; zurelqms@gmail.com

Website: www.zurel.co.za

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