JZA - Your Jewellery Magazine • Summer 2023

SUMMER 2023

Officially endorsed by the Jewellery Council of South Africa (JCSA)

wrist stacks

layered confidence

Sizzling hot jewellery trends that will define summer

MEN OF PLATINUM

Your ultimate gift guide

WINNING WATCHES OF 2023

BE ON-TREND. ADVERTISE IN

Contact Thuli on 011 883 4627 or e-mail: thuli@isikhova.co.za

Address: 228A South Mall, Oriental Plaza, Fordsburg, Johannesburg, 2092 Contact : 083 629 2879 / 011 8384726 • Email: zahirregal@gmail.com Instagram: Regal_jewellers • Facebook: @regal jewellers

WE BUY & SELL ANTIQUE JEWELLERY & VINTAGE CURIOSITIES Since 1988 www.bancroftantiques.co.za Use the “JZA Summer” 10% discount code - for a limited period only Mobile +27 82 823 1492 • Email bancroftjhb@gmail.com Stall 103, Bryanston Marklet 9am-3pm (Thursdays and Saturdays)

Design and manufacture of bespoke jewellery www.impilocollection.co.za | Tel: +27(0)10 021 0441 | Email: info@impilocollection.co.za

JZ A | CON TEN TS

CONTENTS 10

12

Your ultimate jewellery gift guide There are few things as exciting as a jewellery box-shaped present under the Christmas tree.

Thoma

M a ke r y C o l l e c t i o n

24

Covered in sunshine!

A variety of gemstones come in shades of yellow, from diamonds to citrines and garnets.

ewe l l e r y

Winning watches of 2023 The winning timepieces of 2023 have been announced.

21

ir it J

Cover feature Grand Diamonds has built a reputation for its exquisite selection and unparalleled craftsmanship.

and is sure to make any outfit stand out.

Sp

16

Homegrown magic Express your special message of love and affection through the enchanting use of symbolism.

18

Layered confidence Wrist-stacking is a trend that's been on the rise in recent years

s Sabo

8

Sizzling hot Sparkle and shine with these summer trends.

Grand Diamonds

The

4

5 EDITORIAL

lan

c he

Editor-in-Chief Adri Viviers adri@isikhova.co.za

Pichulik

eb

er r ne T

Car i

Editor-at-Large Smitha Sadanandan Creative Director Joanne Brook joanne@isikhova.co.za Wordsmiths Africa – Khwezi Makeba Europe – Imer Koorb Pictures Editor Amahle Jali Copy Editor Anne Phillips BUSINESS Managing Director Imraan Mahomed imraan@isikhova.co.za

a prophecy 28 Build The Pichulik team’s latest collection invites the wearer to choose their intention and build a prophecy.

31 Husband-and-wife team Awie and Back in black

Martie Potgieter talk to JZA about their latest favourite material, carbon fibre. gems 32 Little Trendy, cute and fashionable – welcome to the jewellery market for today’s young ladies. interview 34 Spotlight The Shaka iLembe première saw a regal red-carpet affair, with Nomzamo Mbatha closing it off in a stand-out gold look.

38

Men of platinum This year’s PlatAfrica featured 192 entries, including several pieces designed for men who love wearing platinum.

to shine 42 Time JZA’s international and inspiring storybook.

Director: Brand Strategy Jenny Justus jenny@isikhova.co.za Operations Director Thuli Majola thuli@isikhova.co.za GLOBAL MEDIA ALLIANCE PARTNERS Asia Pacific Region Solitaire Magazine Anton Javier, Deputy Editor Gynn Lee, Business Manager www.solitairemagazine.com United Kingdom CoNNect Agency, UK www.theagencyconnect.com Jewellery Council of South Africa Lorna Lloyd, CEO Membership enquiries: admin@jewellery.org.za Tel: +27 11 484 5528 / Fax: 086 504 95212 JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine is independently published by Isikhova Media (Pty) Ltd and is part of the SA Jewellery Brands Portfolio Telephone +27 11 883 4627 www.isikhova.co.za Subscriptions & General Enquiries jza@isikhova.co.za The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owners, the publisher, contributors or its agents. While every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of its contents, neither JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine, the owners, the Editor-in-Chief, the publisher, media alliance partners nor any of its endorsed organisations or contributors can be held responsible for any omissions or errors; or for any misfortune, injury or damages which may arise therefrom. The same applies to all advertising. JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine © 2023. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishers.

46 Art jewellery is rooted in experimenting When art meets jewellery

with ideas that can be worn on the body made with everyday materials.

savvy thinkers smart doers together people

ED'S NOT E | JZ A

A note from the

E

EDITORIN-CHIEF

lizabeth Taylor once said: “Jewellery has the power to be the one little thing that makes you feel unique.” Jewellery is much more than merely embellishment – it’s deeply personal. It tells a story about the person who’s wearing it.

We’re really excited to share the innovation and creativity of this season’s jewellery styles with you. There’s so much to love about summer: the warmer weather, the longer days and the vibrant colours everywhere…

It’s also the perfect time to have a bit of fun with your style.

Here at JZA, we know that there’s an intimacy to wearing jewellery – it rests against our skin, warmed by our body. It’s perfumed by our natural oils and is a badge of personal expression.

While jewellery’s a very personal thing, it’s also made to play with – and if you haven’t found that playful side yet, it’s out there and we hope this issue guides you to it. Come on out of your everyday comfort

zone and push your limits beyond the familiar.

May this holiday season end the year on a cheerful note and make way for a fresh and bright 2024!

Wishing you love, joy, peace, health and happy holidays!

Adri Viviers

Editor's top picks for summer jewellery The hot weather gives us a lot of skin to accessorise with. Here are three of my favourite pieces from homegrown brands that will elevate your look this summer!

◀ Kinkel Jewellery yellow gold leavy stack ring set ▶ Black Betty Design double stone bangle

◀ Molly’s Loft pendant with crushed Paua pearl

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8

JZ A | SIZZL ING HOT

The hotter months are the best time to mix things up when it comes to jewellery. Sparkle and shine with these great finds

W

ith its warm weather, sunny days and airy

fashions, summer is full of opportunities to show off your favourite jewellery pieces. Embrace the season with these fun jewellery trends.

Turquoise treasures Reminiscent of the ocean and blue skies, turquoise is the perfect gemstone for summer. Besides its striking, tranquil shade, turquoise is said to bring strength, power, luck and protection to whoever wears it.

SIZZL ING HOT | JZ A

Yellow gold everything Nothing complements sun-kissed skin quite like yellow s Sabo

gold jewellery. Throw on a gold necklace or bold gold

Thoma

bracelet to complete your summer look.

Joyful enamel Enamel jewellery has a lightweight, airy and colourful feel that’s perfect for Tangerine Handmade Jewellery

summer. For a look that’s equally fun and effortless, opt for colourful enamel necklaces, earrings, bracelets and more.

◀ Flora dangle hoops. Grace The Brand

jewellery trends that

Jeulia

DEFINE SUMMER Unusual cuts and shapes

▼ Gold-toned castle ring. Ellie Jewellery

For those who don’t follow conventions, unique or Vivid gemstones Bright, cheerful colours are everywhere you

unusual cuts in gemstones and metal offer luxury that’s anything but boring.

look in the summer months. You can One of the biggest

rainbow of them to mix up your look. Colour

JADE South Africa

shade or incorporate a

trends is necklaces, earrings and bracelets

allows jewellery to be

made from natural

playful and can take

and organic materials

you from day to

such as shells and

night effortlessly.

wood. These materials add a uniquely earthy aesthetic to the

Sc ar ab J e

jewellery, evoking

we l l e

nature and the

ry

environment.

D E S o ut h A f r ic a

Natural materials

JA

choose to stick to one

9

10

JZ A | HOMEGROW N M AGIC

SYMBOLS OF LOVE

AFFECTION

Express your special message of love and affection through the enchanting use of symbolism in jewellery, with each handmade piece a one-off created by leading South African jewellers

V

eronica Anderson

and folklore, together with

Jewellery, situated

a variety of much-loved

in Riverside

motifs, feature in this range

Shopping Centre in

of handmade jewellery.

Bryanston, Sandton,

Veronica Anderson

Johannesburg, recently launched its magical and whimsical “Symbols of Love

Jewellery, established in 2005, is a South African favourite contemporary

and Affection” collection.

jewellery gallery which

Flowers, fruit, insects,

showcases the work of

myths, festivals, fairy-tales

many of the country’s

foremost goldsmiths and jewellery designers.

“Each piece is handmade and a one-off that reflects the creativity and outstanding talent of South African designers,” says founder and owner Veronica Anderson.

New work is presented throughout the year and the

HOMEGROW N M AGIC | JZ A

1

gallery’s bespoke services give customers a link to the creative talent and skill of leading local jewellers, offering endless possibilities when it comes to personalised and unique pieces.

2

“South African jewellery stands out internationally in terms of strong design elements. Imagination, passion and energy are what one’s come to expect from our local talent,” says Anderson.

The “Symbols of Love and Affection” collection allows wearers to express

3

their special messages of endearment through the enchanting use of symbolism in jewellery. The collection features enduring pieces with profound symbolic meanings, conveying sentiments beyond mere adornment.

1. A Kiss at Christmas by Lucinda Dabbs. Sterling silver kinetic pendant with a silver chain and T-bar 2. Purity and Good Fortune

by Brendon Cloete. An oxidised sterling silver and rock crystal negligée pendant necklace 3. Hope and Regeneration by Philippe Bousquet. Sterling silver and carved amazonite scarab ring with diamond and cultured pearl 4. Bouquets of Joy and Cheerfulness by Chantal Mayer. Sterling silver and gilt nano ceramic daisy bouquet earrings 5. Hope and New Beginnings by Nicki Böttcher.

Sterling silver and 18ct yellow gold earrings with chryso onyx and seed pearl 6. Joy in the Garden by Dorathea Annandale. A sterling silver, 14ct yellow gold and garnet "Butterfly in the Daisy Patch" bangle

4

The collection features enduring pieces with profound symbolic meanings, conveying sentiments beyond mere adornment and reflecting the creativity and outstanding talent of South African designers.

5 6

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JZ A | COV ER F E AT U R E

GLITZ, GLAMOUR

sparkle

JZA recently had a chance to catch up with Leandro Eckardt, founder of Grand Diamonds. With its showroom and manufacturing studio based in Cape Town, the online retailer has built a reputation for its exquisite selection and unparalleled craftsmanship

T

he world of diamond jewellery has undergone a significant shift in recent years, with lab-grown diamonds emerging as a promising alternative

to traditionally mined diamonds. The process of creating lab-grown diamonds involves advanced technology that replicates the high-pressure and high-temperature conditions which occur deep within the earth, where natural diamonds are formed.

However, instead of taking millions of years to form, labgrown diamonds take only a few weeks to grow in a laboratory. The result is a diamond that offers the same quality and beauty as a mined one – with a significantly lower price tag.

professional service. It goes beyond simply conducting business: it’s a deeply personal endeavour for me.

What’s the founding story behind Grand Diamonds?

I’m emotionally invested

I established the first Grand Diamonds office in October

in each purchase, knowing

2010 and since then, the journey’s been nothing short

that the jewellery we create

of incredible. The success of Grand Diamonds has been

will symbolise love and

underpinned by an unwavering focus on quality and

commitment for our clients.

COV ER F E AT U R E | JZ A

I’m emotionally invested in each purchase, knowing that the jewellery we create will symbolise love and commitment for our clients.

Are lab-grown diamonds real diamonds? Yes, lab-grown diamonds are indeed real diamonds. They have the same chemical and physical properties as natural ones because they’re created using technological processes that replicate the natural diamond-growing environment. The only difference is the origin of the diamonds, as natural ones are mined from the earth, whereas lab-grown ones are created in a controlled environment in a laboratory setting. However, both types of diamonds are equally genuine and valued for their beauty and durability.

13

14

JZ A | COV ER F E AT U R E

Can you tell the difference between a lab-grown diamond and a natural one? In terms of appearance and physical properties, lab-grown diamonds are essentially indistinguishable from natural diamonds. Both types possess the same

How do you ensure the authenticity of a labgrown diamond? Ensuring the authenticity of lab-grown diamonds involves several measures that can be taken by the producer, the retailer

chemical composition,

and the purchaser:

crystal structure and

1 Purchase lab-grown diamonds from reputable

overall characteristics that make them genuine diamonds. The only way to differentiate between them is through advanced testing equipment, as lab-grown diamonds typically have certain identifying features related to their growth process.

However, to the naked eye or through traditional jewellery-testing, there’s no discernible difference between the two.

and certified sources.

2 Ask for a grading report from a reputable gemmological laboratory, such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) or the International Gemological Institute (IGI).

3 Many lab-grown diamonds are laser-inscribed with a unique identification number or symbol to distinguish them from natural ones.

4 Consult jewellers who’re knowledgeable about lab-grown diamonds.

5 Choose a seller who provides transparency about the origin of the diamonds and offers warranties or guarantees of authenticity.

Does Grand Diamonds sell natural and lab-grown diamonds? Grand Diamonds presents a diverse selection of meticulously crafted lab-grown and natural diamonds, catering to the discerning tastes of our clientele. Our offerings encompass an exquisite range of both lab-grown and natural stones, ensuring that our customers have access to a wealth of options that suit their unique preferences and requirements. With dedication to quality and commitment to excellence, we provide a comprehensive selection of diamonds that beautifully capture the timeless elegance associated with these remarkable gemstones.

Giveaway Forever has a nice ring to it!

Share your love story and stand a chance of winning FOLLOW JZA ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR MORE INFORMATION

16

JZ A | WATCHM A K ING’ S OSC A R S

◀ Simon Brett

WINNING WATCHES

OF 2023

▼ Tudor Pelagos 39

The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is one of the most anticipated events in the world of watchmaking, equivalent to the Oscars. Here are the winning timepieces of the 2023 edition

C

reated to highlight and annually reward the most

remarkable contemporary

the nominated watches prior to the awards ceremony – followed by showings of the

with local partners,

competition-winners

these exhibitions

– for an international

contribute to the

audience of enthusiasts

promotion of watch-

Each year, a series of

and connoisseurs alike.

making culture

exhibitions brings together

Organised in collaboration

around the world.

creations, the GPHG promotes the art of watchmaking all over the world.

WATCHM A K ING’S OSC A R S | JZ A

◀ Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle RD #4

This year saw 19 prizes, including the granddaddy Aiguille d’Or, or Best in Show. Ninety different timepieces were nominated in total this year.

The 23rd GPHG awards ceremony was held on 9 November 2023 at the Théâtre du Léman in Geneva. The prize-winners were determined by a 30-person jury who met behind closed doors a few days prior to the ceremony, along with a second vote by the academy.

te Chronomètre Artisans ▼ Piaget Hidden Treasures

After the ceremony, the winning timepieces were presented as part of Dubai Watch Week from 15-20 November.

• The granddaddy “Best in Show”: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Universelle RD #4 The Aiguille d’Or, essentially the GPHG’s Best in Show across categories, went to Audemars Piguet's Code 11.59 Universelle RD #4. It has no fewer than 23 complications, including a Grand Sonnerie Supersonnerie, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, a split-second fly-back chronograph and a flying tourbillon.

• Ladies’: Piaget Hidden Treasures.

Created to highlight and annually reward the most remarkable contemporary creations, the GPHG promotes the art of watchmaking all over the world. ◀ Voutilainen World Timer

• Ladies’ Complication: Dior Grand Soir Automate Étoile de Monsieur Dior.

• Men’s: Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans.

• Men’s Complication: Voutilainen World Timer.

• Iconic: Ulysse Nardin Freak One. • Sports: Tudor Pelagos 39. ▼ Dior Grand Soir Automate Étoile de Monsieur Dior

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

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JZ A | W R IST STACK S

◀ The Kokkini bracelet stack.

Styled by Anthea

Ubunta Life

LAYERED

S

tacking one’s bracelets, aka “arm parties”, was

a trend that had a major moment in the 2010s, but more than a decade later, wearing multiple

bracelets is once again a favourite among fashion icons. Braceletstacking offers a creative and versatile way to adorn oneself and the result is a stunning and eye-

Soul Design

confidence Wrist-stacking is a trend that’s been on the rise in recent years and is sure to make any outfit stand out

catching display of individuality Meringue Jewellery

and personal style that continues to captivate fashionistas around the world.

efinitive Collec The D tion en Vix

18

▲ Beaded sixwrap bracelet.

The Makery Collection ▲ Gold evil eye link and cross bracelet stack. Byou Designs

TR END A L ERT | JZ A

3

2

1

4

6 5 1. Obari 2 . Abalii Jewelry 3. Amwaj Jewellery 4. Khayal Fine Jewelry 5. La Marquise Jewellery 6. Kaltham's Pavilion 7. ALANINA

your style with exquisite MIDDLE Elevate pendants, captivating chokers, opulent EASTERN collars and charming long necklaces

TREASURES Explore the spirit of the gifting season with our curated selection of Middle Eastern treasures. Elevate your style with exquisite pendants, captivating chokers, opulent collars and charming long necklaces adorned with tassels. Find the perfect gift for your loved ones in the artistry of the Middle East.

7

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Feel confident and beautiful Know what you’re buying

Diamond, precious and semi-precious gemstone and jewellery certification. +27 11 334 4527 / services@egl.co.za / www.egl.co.za

Y EL LOW STON E EL EG A NCE | JZ A

sunshine!

COVERED IN

Sunshine, lemons and a variety of flowers share the colour yellow, which evokes feelings of happiness, warmth and optimism.

A variety of gemstones also come in shades of yellow, from diamonds to citrines and garnets

Y

ellow diamonds are enduring in quality and value and are popular set in jewellery. Yet a treasure trove of other yellow gemstones

exists at reasonable price points. They can be found in light-toned shades to rich, warm hues, says the Gemological Institute of America, the world’s foremost authority in gemmology.

The most plentiful yellow gemstones in the marketplace are citrine, sapphire, topaz, tourmaline and transparent opal. Other varieties include yellow andradite garnet, spessartine and Mali garnets, beryl, sphene, zircon, spodumene and transparent varieties of labradorite and orthoclase feldspar. Less abundant or collectible yellow gems include chrysoberyl, sphalerite, apatite and prehnite.

▶ Sterling silver citrine dangling earrings.

Silver Image

▶ 18ct gold-plated yellow baguette hoops. Galaxy & Co

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JZ A | Y EL LOW STONE EL EG A NCE

Yellow is the most

◀ Honey bee necklace.

Hand-finished in 925 sterling silver 18ct goldplated. Gnoce

abundant colour of natural fancy diamonds. The first major source of yellow diamonds was in the late

Browns Jewellers

◀ Yellow cushion

1860s in the Cape, so in

diamond halo earrings. Shimansky

the international jewellery trade, these stones came to

▶ Citrine oval silver

be known as “Cape” yellow

ring. Bali Bali

diamonds.

There’s an inexplicable

Leviev Diamonds

22

allure about diamonds.

As early as 1676, accounts

with a colour grade of Fancy Intense yellow. It was purchased and recut

by French traveller and

to 101,29ct to improve its

gem-dealer Jean-Baptiste

colour and clarity, going

Tavernier mentioned

from Fancy Intense to

seeing a 137,27ct yellow

Fancy Vivid.

diamond that he referred to

George Stepp, a logger

variously as the Florentine,

from Carthage, Arkansas,

the Austrian Yellow and the Grand Duke of

New York. It was cut from

Tuscany. Since then, many

a 297,42ct rough stone to

notable colour diamonds

its present cushion cut of

have been given the elite

128,54ct and is one of the

distinction of famous

largest known fancy yellow

diamonds, particularly

diamonds in the world.

as the appeal of colour

USA, found a yellow diamond crystal in the Crater of Diamonds State Park in 1972. The “Kahn Canary Diamond” weighs 4,25ct and is internally flawless. More than 33 000

The Allnatt, a yellow

diamonds have been found

diamond thought to have

in the park in Arkansas

The Tiffany Yellow Diamond

originated from a De Beers

since it opened to the

was acquired by Tiffany &

mine in South Africa,

public in 1977. The park has

Co in 1878 and has been

appeared at Christie’s

a “finders, keepers” policy

on display for more than 70

Geneva auction in May

which allows the public to

years in its flagship store in

1996 weighing 102,07ct

dig for diamonds for a fee.

became widespread.

Ja ck ie Fr dm an

The first major source of yellow diamonds was in the late 1860s in the Cape, so in the international jewellery trade, these stones came to be known as ‘Cape’ yellow diamonds.

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JZ A | JOY F U L CHR ISTM A S

YOUR JEWELLERY

JOY F U L CHR ISTM A S | JZ A

There are few things as exciting as a jewellery box-shaped present under the Christmas tree. We’re here to help you find the perfect piece for a loved one we guarantee they'll treasure forever!

I

▲ Marham's strip detail silver tie clip R99

t’s that time of year again when you need a Christmas gift guide to help you with your shopping. Don’t worry – we’ve got you covered!

Before deciding on a piece of Christmas jewellery for someone, consider their lifestyle, their personality and their current jewellery collection. Do they prefer yellow

Dad

gold, rose gold or perhaps silver, a statement piece or something more classic?

For him

From gifts for him to gifts for her and family members, we have inspiration for you.

Brother ◀ Fabiani gold-plated stainless steel money clip R599 ▲ American Swiss stainless steel African pendant R499 ▲ Sparkling Stones steel cuff bracelet R120

Boyfriend

Husband

▲ Silvery men's necklace R925

▲ Silvery cuff and turned leather cord bracelet R1 945

◀ The GAIA Collection silver ash tungsten ring R999

▶ Jeulia Simple style copper cufflinks R735

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NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT Buy with confidence from a trusted Jewellery Council of SA member today

Look in store for this sticker

Proud accredited member of the Jewellery Council of South Africa

www.jewellery.org.za

jewellerycouncilofsa

@thejewellerycouncilofsa

admin@jewellery.org.za

JOY F U L CHR IST M A S | JZ A

◀ Kinkel Jewellery scallop bracelet R460

Sister

▼ Spirit Jewellery elderflower silver earrings R760

For her

Wife

Friend

▲ Christy-Anne Jewellery one in a million mracelet R1 080-R5 400

▲ Maiden Stone initial necklace R650

▲ Christy-Anne Jewellery lunar bracelet R378-R4 095

▶ Spirit Jewellery organic stud and pearl earrings R720-R820

Mom

▲ PMC Jewellery sterling silver zircon inlaid earrings R360

▲ Charis Jewelry Mira gold-plated 925 sterling silver heartbeat bracelet R329

Girlfriend

▲ Kinkel Jewellery calypso pearl necklace R840

◀ Maiden Stone chevron step necklace R550

All prices sourced at time of publication. JZA – Your Jewellery Magazine cannot be held liable in any way whatsoever for price differences and/or any additional costs involved in delivery or shipping, where applicable.

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JZ A | CU R ATED SEL ECTION

BUILD A PROPHECY P ichulik employs women, collaborates with

women and outsources

to local women-owned small businesses to promote job

creation and economic activity in local communities. In this way, it champions and augments women’s earning cpacity.

Led by founder and Creative Director Katherine-Mary Pichulik, every jewellery piece is made by a single artist from start to finish, mastering a selection of crafting and embellishing skills.

Each piece is a talisman, handcrafted from unexpected, organic materials into distinctive

CU R AT ED SEL ECT ION | JZ A

The Pichulik team is a pan-African group of spirited women who create everything by hand in their atelier, located in the heart of Cape Town. Its latest collection invites the wearer to choose their intention and build a prophecy

forms that share the stories of brave women and celebrate empowering feminine narratives. Each collection captures a different chapter in a heroine’s journey – an odyssey imbued with mythology, symbolism and transformation.

Pichulik’s latest Talisma Collection invites the wearer to begin with the end in mind – to build a prophecy. It reimagines the classic charm bracelet and necklace, allowing the wearer to create their own legacy as well.

Design and personalise your Talisma piece by selecting a signature rope Talisma necklace or bracelet, with its cast brass shepherd hook clasp and pair it with a variety of symbolic pendants or charms – each with a unique intention. For example, wearers can choose between the Talisma Healing Pendant (an invitation for well-being and rejuvenation) or the Talisma Pilgrim Pendant (premised on the outset of a journey).

The Talisma pendants are limited-edition collector’s pieces which can be worn alone, interchangeably or together.

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Missoma

BACK IN BL ACK | JZ A

ROUGH & TOUGH

CARBON FIBRE Husband-and-wife team Awie and Martie Potgieter of Bezalel Atelier tell JZA about their latest favourite ring material, carbon fibre

A

Its appearance and texture are distinct from any other material – the sheen of carbon fibre and its interaction with light are truly remarkable.

Furthermore, its lightweight nature makes it feel as if you’re not wearing a ring at all. Its smoothness

wie and Martie pride

and lightness are unparalleled, but the real magic of

themselves on their

carbon fibre lies in its strength. This material is used

experimentation with

in some of the world’s most cutting-edge designs

an array of materials. While they

and creations and incorporating it into men’s rings is

utilise traditional materials like

a natural progression for jewellery to remain in step

silver and gold as a foundation for

with our constantly evolving world,” says Awie.

their rings, they also incorporate unique materials such as buffalo horn, exotic hardwoods, various engineered materials and, most recently, carbon fibre.

“Carbon fibre is an excellent material for jewellery manufacturing because of the endless design possibilities it offers. Whatever concept you can imagine, there’s a means of actualising it. The exclusivity and uniqueness of carbon fibre only

“Working with carbon fibre is

enhance its appeal. Take our word for it, it’s a trend

an unparalleled experience.

that’s here to stay,” adds Martie.

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JZ A | JE W EL L ERY FOR GIR LS

Little

◀ Rhodiumplated brass chain with pink enamel heart pendant.

Galaxy & Co

◀ Gold-layered charms and ring necklace.

Memi Jewellery

GEMS Ed e

Trendy, cute and fashionable – welcome to the jewellery market for today’s young ladies

n an d Co

T

he kids’ jewellery category has come a long way from those tentative first steps, when ID bracelets, brooches

and stud earrings were all that was available for young accessory-lovers.

The jewellery industry for children and teens is continuously evolving, focusing on quality

◀ Unicorn pendant pangle charm.

Gnoce Jewelry

over quantity, according to recent analysis.

Babies and toddlers (birth to 3 years) • Occasion pieces still dominate this age group’s jewellery category, especially signet rings, baby bangles and bracelets.

• Personalised engraved jewellery for babies, kids and teens is a thoughtful

▲ Name necklace and birthstone flower connector. Silvery

expression of love and appreciation, making cherished keepsakes that grow in value over time.

◀ Sterling silver pink cubic zrconia kids' round stud earrings. Sterns

The Silver Goose

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J E W EL L ERY FOR GIR LS | JZ A

▲ Pink silver plated beadbracelet. The Silver Goose

Children (aged 4-9) • Bead jewellery – even better, have them bead it themselves. Spend quality time with your kids and gather your Snatcher

selected beads with you.

They can be letters, shapes or even crystals!

• Let them embrace the beauty of nature with the great selection of animal-themed jewellery items available.

• Young girls everywhere

Teens (aged 13-19) • Birthstone jewellery is experiencing a resurgence alongside the popularity of astrology. These zodiac-

are still eager to be part

inspired pieces, which

of the wonderful and

have already made

magical world of Barbie.

waves in the adult

Tweens (aged 10-12) • Necklaces – with or without pendants.

• Charm bracelets are

jewellery industry, are now featuring in teens’ jewellery as well.

• Sparkling, colourful jewellery always catches

versatile, beautiful and

the eye and draws

very popular.

positive attention.

• A locket necklace,

• Pearl jewellery for

especially with a photo

teenage girls is full of

of a loved one or friend,

class, charm and elegance.

will allow her to carry that special relationship or connection close to her heart.

Hypo-allergenic jewellery Girls love to wear jewellery, but it’s not fun if an allergic reaction sets in, especially an infection caused from an earring.

Figuring out whether a girl has an allergy to a specific jewellery metal is done by trial and error. If the skin touching the jewellery is itchy, red or infected, and you’ve ruled out other causes, there may be a metal allergy.

The most common cause of such allergies is nickel. Instead, choose hypoallergenic metals such as platinum, stainless steel, silver or gold.

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JZ A | SPOTL IGH T IN TERV IE W

IN CONVERSATION WITH

M

ANDILE MAK

batha’s much-anticipated

The one-of-a-kind

appearance on the

metallic gown that

red carpet was a sight

brought the Zulu queen

to behold. She arrived in a gold

to life was the re-

rouched, form-fitting gown with

imagination and work of

intricate metal breastplates.

Cape Town-based House of Ayi founder Makaula.

The actress takes the role of Queen Nandi, the mother of Shaka Zulu, in

What drew you to

the show, while also wearing the hat

become a jewellery

of executive producer for the series.

designer and inspired you to start your own brand? When I first arrived in Cape Town in December 2017, fresh out of high school, my plan was to study fashion. However, the universe had a different plan for me. I had a hunger for a space where I could be creative and if it wasn’t going to be fashion at that time, I knew there’d be something else.

I was fortunate that Lorne Jewellery opened its doors when they heard me knocking.

What materials do you use in your jewellery and fashion collections?

When designing jewellery, I create most pieces using brass, but I’m hoping to start working with sterling silver soon.

When designing fashion, I use satin, silks, velvets and all sorts of fabrics.

I believe the fabric will determine what the garment looks like, how it drapes and falls off the body. Fabric manipulation is king.

AULA

The Shaka iLembe première in Montecasino, Johannesburg, saw a regal red-carpet affair, with Nomzamo Mbatha closing it off in a stand-out gold look, courtesy of House of Ayi designer Andile Makaula. He reveals what drew him to become a jewellery and fashion designer and where his concepts come from

36

JZ A | SPOTL IGH T IN TERV IE W

Your creations are amazingly unique.

Where do your design concepts come from? My work’s influenced by many designers, from Thierry Mugler’s ’90s era to John Galliano during his Dior era, Pierpaolo Piccioli (currently at Valentino) and Daniel Roseberry of Schiaparelli.

I think Roseberry’s début at Schiaparelli in 2019 came at the right time: it made the path even clearer. The first time I saw his work, I knew exactly what I was meant to do with my love for both

my abilities. All she said was:

jewellery and fashion. I

“Do your thing” – and my

take all these influences

mind just started to work.

and infuse them with my

The possibilities of what I

vision that haute couture is

could create were endless

everywhere, even in Africa.

– and a great budget

What have been your

certainly also helped!

greatest successes?

What are the most

Everything that’s

important lessons

happening right now, right

you’ve learnt from your

here, at this very moment.

creative entrepreneurial

You’ll be amazed by what

I’m very grateful for all the

journey? Not to take

you can do.

opportunities I’ve been

things personally, to know

given and for how far I’ve

the difference between

come. I certainly couldn’t

constructive criticism and

have done it without the

naysayers and to appreciate

love and support I’ve

every challenge, because

received from people

it prepares you for the

What can we expect

around me. One person

next one. Also, to surround

from you in the future?

specifically who believed

yourself with like-minded

You can definitely expect

in me and to whom I’m

people and continue to

more grandiose ideas and

deeply grateful is Nomzamo

challenge yourself. Never

lots of fabulousness! I’ll

Mbatha. I remember her

give up before you’ve

also be exploring my other

completely trusting me and

exhausted all the options.

passions and interests.

Finally, and most importantly, just relax and have fun. That’s something I’m still learning to do.

38

JZ A | PL ATA F R IC A

◀ Neckpiece – pendant created by Siphelele Ntuli from Cape Peninsula University of Technology

▼ Neckpiece created by Daniel Mphephu from Pneuma Academy of Excellence

men

▲ Cufflinks created by Bonolo Matome from The Platinum Incubator – MekgaboB Creations

OF PLATINUM This year’s prestigious PlatAfrica jewellery design competition featured a total of 192 entries across the country, including several remarkable pieces designed for men who love wearing platinum

T

he winners of the 24th annual prestigious PlatAfrica jewellery

design and manufacturing competition were announced during a glamorous gala awards ceremony in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg.

Hosted annually by Anglo American Platinum, Metal Concentrators and Platinum Guild International India, the awards showcase local

PL ATA F R IC A | JZ A

jewellery manufacturing and design flair and help build a pipeline of talent in the South African platinum jewellery design industry.

Using the 2023 competition theme “#Emergence”, contestants created innovative designs drawing from uncharted territories to create pieces that inspire

Entrants pushed the boundaries of platinum jewellery design with many striking statement pieces designed specifically for the modern man.

▲ Neckpiece with rotating pendant created by Oluga Makungo from Pneuma Academy of Excellence

and resonate with potential customers, while pointing ▶ Ring (two-piece) created by Talent Lungelo Ngema from Durban University of Technology

to the promise of better things to come. This year’s competition also saw the introduction of capsule collections – a condensed version of the designer’s vision that can transcend trends and seasons both functionally and commercially, as well as a collab▲ Tie pin created by

oration with De Beers, which

Christopher Lolwane from Akapo Jewels

loaned selected diamonds to the winners for showcasing their platinum designs.

▲ Armpiece created by Letlhogonolo Mavuso from The Platinum Incubator

Entrants pushed the boundaries of platinum jewellery design with many striking statement pieces created specifically for the modern man.

The PlatAfrica Pop-Up Store, which is exclusively online, gives the public an opportunity to invest in the precious resource of platinum and in the SA jewellery industry. To view or shop pieces from the PlatAfrica 2023 “#Emergence” collection, visit: https://plat.africa/. ◀ Armpiece created by Dimakatso Maimane from The Platinum Incubator

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40

JZ A | TR END A L ERT

AN IRRESISTIBLE

ALLURE

1.

Earrings have always held a special place in the world of jewellery, offering an expressive canvas for designers to showcase their creativity and craftsmanship

2.

11.

1 & 2. TOKTAM 3. TOi Fine Jewelry 4. AILES 5. STONE 6 & 7. Susana Martins 8. AILES 9. Noora Shawqi 10. Savolinna Fine Jewelry 11. STONE

T

10.

3.

hese miniature works of art reflect the essence of their creators, merging heritage with innovation. Each pair of

earrings is a sweet reminder of the rich traditions and contemporary inspirations that shape the Middle Eastern jewellery landscape.

As you explore this dazzling world of "ear candy", you'll discover designs that whisper stories of

4.

history, radiate timeless elegance, infuse life with lively colours and unveil modern classics.

These earrings, rooted in culture and dipped in creativity, offer an irresistible allure.

9.

7.

8.

6.

5.

Shine bright this season Fest ive greet ings from team JZA

42

JZ A | GLOBA L CONNECT

TIME TO

WORDS BY SMITHA SADANANDAN

SHINE

JZA’s international and inspiring storybook

Splashes of colour

Merging past and present Earrings that caught our eye? These short drops from Mindi Mond that merge the old with the new, along with lovely details. The imperial citrine diamond drops feature cushion-cut citrines set in a modern, exaggerated eight-prong style. Made in 18ct yellow gold, the stones are suspended from round brilliant diamond accents. The peridot floating drops are also set with cushion cuts. The elliptical 18ct yellow gold setting lends a floral form to the earrings.

Transformable jewels Ukrainian designer Sonya Konstantinovsky loves coloured gems of any type, provided they’re vibrant, clean and well cut. When she started working on her capsule line, little did she know that it would turn out to be an all-rubellites-and-rubies set. She’d bought a 10,8 ct oval rubellite previously and was unsure what to do with it. She then came upon an exquisite no-heat Asscher-cut ruby which already had a mate, a D IF Type IIa marquise-cut diamond. She already had sketches of earrings. Her need for something practical sparked the idea of creating transformable jewels. “This was a perfect solution: a timeless tennis necklace that can be dressed up by attaching a pendant to further elevate your look,” she says.

Lebanese designer Clara Chehab relies on local craftsmanship to create pieces with luxurious splashes of colour. In her début collection, Gaia, she juxtaposes raw and faceted gemstones in a playful, yet refined way. Motherhood, travels and the raw beauty of nature are the main inspirations for her brand, she says. The Gaia cuffs are generously embellished with coloured gems, including rough imperial topaz, rough green and rough pink tourmaline. “I’ve used a lot of these stones in my first collection,” she adds. The diamond-wrapped rough gems are aesthetically pleasing.

43

The colour of magic, mystery and power Hessa Alshafar’s fascination with the cultural diversity and heritage of her own city, Dubai, informs her designs for her jewellery brand, Savolinna.

Round, pear- and oval-shaped emeralds are at the heart of the new 18ct yellow gold capsule collection; it expands her signature offering of emeraldstudded jewels. Bold gold elements and emeralds take centre stage in the necklaces, bracelets and earrings. “The collection’s inspired by green, a colour of great magic, mystery and power. I think people are looking for a colour that evokes nature and earthiness. The emeralds are placed in a row, sequenced by the best colour and shape co-ordination,” says Alshafar.

Bold and powerful

Symbol of wisdom

Look out for Susannah King’s pieces that centre around bold and powerful shapes and colours.

The Venus statement ring in 18ct rose gold references the “hot and toxic” Venus. King, a fourth-generation goldsmith, made the ring and a companion sludge pendant without looking at pictures of the goddess. “This time, I decided to make them based on the lore attached to Venus – love, romance, desire and victory.” Tourmaline, spinel, sapphire and amethyst shine brightly around the hero stone.

Paris-based Alexandra Rosier’s talismans, featuring both a rainbow-hued and a diamond-studded Siberian owl, are great additions to your jewellery box. Her pendants sport a miniature sculpture of the bird with engraved feathers and an articulated head. Made in 18ct yellow gold, the owl pendant is available in two versions – the first is sprinkled with bright gems, including fancy sapphires, tsavorite, blue topaz, amethyst, ruby, Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds; the second is a muted version of a Siberian owl, set with champagne and brown diamonds. In both designs, the bellies of the owls feature rose-cut white diamonds.

Muses and butterflies Armenian designer Shavarsh Hakobian débuted 10 rings at Gem Genève, the International Gem and Jewellery trade show held in Geneva. Made specially for the November show, the rings are part of two collections – Muses and Butterflies. Architecturally inspired, lyre-shaped rings that illustrate the harmonious balance between organic and industrial shapes form part of the Muses collection, while Butterflies sees the designer reimagining the butterfly motif in an abstract way by fusing bold shapes with minute details.

An innovative category of diamonds Shahla Karimi partners with Aether Diamonds on a capsule line of grown diamond jewellery that encapsulates a minimalist design philosophy, punctuated by intricate rivet settings and architectural column designs. Karimi looked to the iconic cast-iron architecture of Soho to inspire the Aether X Shahla capsule collection. “Aether has pioneered an innovative category of diamonds that exemplify true sustainability by deriving them from air. Through Aether’s cuttingedge technology, carbon is harvested from the atmosphere, mitigating its impact on global warming. It’s then skilfully transformed into the world’s most exquisite and exceptionally rare diamonds,” says Karimi. The Ribbon collection was launched in September at Twist Online.

About Smitha Sadanandan JZA's Editor-at-Large is Chicago-based Smitha – a seasoned writer and journalist specialising in the luxury industry.

She tracks international trends in the jewellery-watches sector and provides an insightful perspective as an analyst. Her words can be found in the South China Morning Post, Financial Times (UK), Prestige (HK), Vogue (Arabia & India), Solitaire (Asia Pacific), Natural Diamond Council, The Adventurine and Solitaire International (GJEPC), among others.

44

JZ A | GLOBA L CONNECT – DESIGNER PROF IL E

O

ladunjoye came to fine jewellery design as a second

career, having spent 18 years practising intellectual property law at some of the largest tech companies in California’s Silicon Valley. “I felt it was time to allow my rightbrain, creative side to flourish,” she says.

Born and raised in London, the South West Nigerian

ETHICALLY designer’s work is inspired

by her Yoruba heritage and

its culture, which is steeped in ancient traditions and spiritual beliefs. “My earliest

jewellery icon was my greatuncle, Sir Adesoji Tadeniawo Aderemi. He was the first African to be appointed a governor in the British Commonwealth and received two knighthoods from the queen. He played a key role in negotiating Nigeria’s independence from Britain and I met him for the first time when I was seven years old. Kneeling before him, I was struck by the heft and majesty of the many jewels he wore, especially the rings he wore on almost every

GLOBA L CONNECT – DESIGNER PROF IL E | JZ A

Jewellery insider and JZA international correspondent Smitha Sadanandan talks to South West Nigerian designer Lola Oladunjoye, founder and Creative Director of Lola Fenhirst

YORUBA INSPIRED finger: hand-carved gold,

earring, for example, is called the téton, which is the

brass, ivory and coral. When I

French word for “nipple”, a celebration of fertility. Her

started designing, my motifs

latest collection, PIT, is a homage to the richness of

mirrored those rings – and

the mineral resources that lie deep within the African

still do,” she says.

soil. “I’m passionate about Africa. It’s the continent of

Each piece of jewellery that Oladunjoye brings to the world is inspired by her West African heritage. Beads are an important motif in Yoruba

the future. In terms of mineral resources, it’s by far the richest, most blessed continent on the planet. The downside, though, is that as Africans, particularly in West and Central Africa, we aren’t sufficiently in control of our resources. That needs to change,” she says.

culture, symbolising

Earlier in the year, Oladunjoye had the opportunity

royalty, wealth and

to visit Botswana on a trip organised by De Beers.

fertility, all of which

It was her first time in Southern Africa. “It’s hard to

are intrinsically linked.

describe how serene and centred I felt. Botswana is

The diamond stud

the centre of the world’s diamond supply and it’s also the place where the remains of the ancestors of all modern humans were found. I’ve collaborated with De Beers on a couple of initiatives over the past few years, most recently to create a capsule collection celebrating the launch of De Beers’ new, trusted source initiative, Code of Origin.”

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Errico Cassar

JZ A | CR A F T A ND BE AU T Y

WHEN art MEETS

JEWELLERY “A rt jewellery

b la

nc he

is positioned

er eT

re

between fine

Car in

arts, design, craft and even fashion, bridging the gap

between artistic expression and wearable beauty,” says Nina Newman, a lecturer in the Jewellery Design and

Eric Loubser

Liz Loubser

While precious and costume jewellery rely on classical notions of beauty and the allure of faceted stones, art jewellery is rooted in experimenting with ideas that can be worn on the body, often made with everyday materials

Furthermore, the human body’s viewed as a

Manufacturing Programme

canvas and working space for these pieces.”

at the Tshwane University

Apart from local galleries, craft markets, online

of Technology and an designer and practitioner.

“Typically, the focus of art jewellery is to challenge the conventional significance of jewellery and it relies on the design and the message

Samantha Vincent

marketplace platforms that sell handmade

award-winning jewellery

art and various events and exhibitions such as Design Indaba and Decorex, there are very few permanent platforms where the public can view or buy pieces here in South Africa. However, there are three known dedicated jewellery galleries that sell and exhibit art jewellery: Tinsel Gallery in Melville, Johannesburg, was

conveyed by the artist.

established by contemporary jeweller Geraldine Fenn in 2006. Veronica Anderson Jewellery, established in 2005, is another dedicated contemporary jewellery gallery in Johannesburg where local art jewellers are invited to participate in various exhibitions throughout the year, while Loubser Studio, also n

in Johannesburg, has a permanent exhibition of both local ha

46

M ar

iam

i bib

K

and international art jewellery pieces.

BR A ND SU PPORTER S | JZ A

FEATURED Summer issue brand supporters

Amanqi Consultancy

Jewellery Council of South Africa

www.theamanqiconsultancy.com

www.jewellery.org.za

manal@theamanqiedit.com

admin@jewellery.org.za

+971 54 410 7187

+27 (0)11 484 5528

Bancroft – The Vintage Emporium

Karlien Designs

www.bancroftantiques.co.za

www.karliendesigns.co.za

bancroftjhb@gmail.com

karlien@karliendesigns.co.za

+27 (0)82 823 1492

+27 (0)83 659 2607

EGL South Africa

Regal Jewellers

www.egl.co.za

www.regaljewellers.co.za

services@egl.co.za

zahirregal@gmail.com

+27 (0)11 334 4527

083 629 2879 / +27 (0)11 838 4726

Gemological Institute of America (GIA)

The Platinum Incubator

www.gia.edu

www.tpi.org.za

Contact us: +1 760 603 4000 –

info@tpi.org.za

Global HQ

+27 (0)14 597 0736

Grand Diamonds

WoodDo

www.granddiamonds.co.za

www.wooddo.co.za

sales@granddiamonds.co.za

info@wooddo.co.za

+27 (0)21 418 2880

+27 (0) 65 602 5781

Impilo Collection www.impilocollection.co.za info@impilocollection.co.za +27 (0)10 021 0441

47

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